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Found 35 results

  1. There are a couple sources to get modified parts but 20$ although sensible for the time required to mod, isnt really justifiable for me, and whenever i try it myself it never works out. Ive been toying with the idea of making 3d printed pneumatics that already have lower friction requirements to move, and have wider ports. What im struggling to overcome though is what to do about the nature of 3d prints. The surface finish may look smooth, but it definitely has substantial friction to it when rubbing other parts and if i smooth it with sandpaper then i lose my tolerances. I have not found anyone else trying to do this or anyone else selling ready made lpe valves that are injection molded, likely because so few people want them. Any insights to making something like this would be appreciated because im stumped on how to make a valve design like lego's work in the same or similiar form factor.
  2. Im trying to make return to center steering with pneumatic pistons due to not being able to use LAs or servos in a particular location. has anyone ever needed to "know" where their pneumatics are? I thought about using a spool of string attached to the end and a potentiometer on the axis of the spool to get a reading of where it is, but maybe there's a better way, with or without electronics. here's my driven, suspended, and hopefully, steered bogey I am trying to implement this on:bogey picture
  3. Dear all. Allow me to introduce my latest MOC which was in development long time now, its supposed to be scaled replica of CLAAS Torion 1914 wheel loader from CLAAS company in 1:17 Scale. The reason why i chose this moc was due to lack of other "colour" machinery in this segment and also being kind of specific wheeloader for agrocultural sphere which i love. Claas Torion 1914 is colaboration with Liebherr on joint wheelloader project, Liebherr version is L550 and up. Model is combination of technic chassis and functions with system easthetics. Over 2000 pieces and 4 motors of Control + type allows for good looks and good playability, althrought a bit limited by weaker PU motors compare to PF, i chose PU to get in new wave of tech + easier and cheaper accesibility on market as the PF functions are getting more expensive. Functions are provided by 3x L PU motor and 1x XL PU motor Driver 1x XL Steering 1x L Pneumatics #1 1x L Pneumatics #2 1x L Each L motor serves for pump and switch together by sariel pump/switch combo, but modified to suit my needs in this build. there are two 6L pumps connected to each motor without any air tank so the actions are not so snappy and responsive and it all depends on the power of motors and batteries. due to this i am seriosly considering upgrading to Buwizz 3.0 to see if it will make it perform better and faster. I don't usually know what more to type about the MOC so i will answer every question in comments section if i will be able. Enjoy the photos (video later today)
  4. This topic is for pneumatic tips and tricks, how to use pneumatics and mocs including pneumatics or just general things about pneumatics. Ps mods if you feel this topic is not required feel free to remove. I just made this seeing there was no general discussion on pneumatics.
  5. Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!!
  6. I've been doing some research on the history of LEGO air-powered engines of both the compressed air (LEGO pneumatics) and high-volume-low-pressure variety. I found it interesting that to build a LEGO air-powered engine before pneumatics parts were released in 1984, the piston and cylinder assembly had to utilize the close tolerance of the bricks and had inherent leaking problems. This type of engine, often known as a LEGO vacuum engine now, is quite popular still since it requires relatively few special parts. I've written a wiki page about it, but just for interest, the first known LEGO air-powered engine was made by the prolific YouTuber Matthias Wandel in about 1985. This is followed by Dan Hartman's first oscillating engine of 1986. I got to interview Erin, who built his first in 1994, without knowledge of other builders, and here's that video. Check the description for my wiki page.
  7. Hi guys, Are there any fans of pneumatics? Do you remember the old 8049 set? I've MODed it a bit. How do you like my version?
  8. Finlay finished the instructions you can now download them for free here Air-Claw With a new Pneumatic truck possibly on the horizon, I decided to give the Redux treatment to one of my favourite models.This is due to its complexity and that it was the first large model that i bought for myself that was not a Christmas or Birthday present. And judging from a recent post on the forums a lot of you like it as well. I have still to model the tubing from my IRL model but I may have to switch to LDCad as is still not the best at this. As with most of the models of the old studded times, to convert to studless you have to switch the width from even to odd so the truck is now one stud wider. I have tried to keep as many details from the original and made changes where the new beams demand it or where newer parts allow a better build. With the redux models I make I always try to use the most current parts available so people who don't have the original have a chance to build it as well. Please let me know what you think especially the front of the truck as I have employed a few odd techniques to keep it looking like the original. Plans will follow eventually when i get the tubing done.
  9. Hi everybody, I'm newbie to the EB, so I'd like to introduce myself with this humble MOC. I'm a fan of LEGO Technic and pneumatics, especially RC ones. I hope I will meet here more fans of LEGO Technic pneumatics. I'd really appreciate any discussion and suggestions. Features: Powered and controlled by BuWizz 2.0 + 2 x Sbrick + PS4 controller + BrickController 2, 16 RC functions (12 can be used at once); 7 x PF motors - 4 x servo motors and 3 x L motors 6 x PF LED RC AWD powered by a PF L motor - with a central differential and gearing including the difference in the wheels’ diameters; pendular driven front axle controlled by PF servo motor - the pivot point is above the wheels’ axle to limit overlapping wheels on the front loader - like in a real tractor; differentials on both axles; 7 RC pneumatic functions controlled by 3 PF servo motors - 3 of them can be used simultaneously (selected manually). 3 at the front to serve the front loader, 4 at the back - one for 3-point hitch, and 3 outputs for additional attachments; pneumatic pump powered by a PF L motor and connected with all RC controlled pneumatic valves. It works proportionally to the opening of the pneumatic valves what ensures smooth work of pneumatic functions. Front loader with 4 attachments - brush grapple, wrapped bale grab, pneumatic sliding pallet forks and bucket; PTO shaft - powered by a PF L motor; trailer hitch; opening hood and doors; lights - front and rear, roof spotlight, blinkers, beacon lights; simple interior - steering wheel and driver seat; Here you can see it in action:
  10. Hello one and all, For those that have more experience with pneumatic systems, I was wondering if a self-sustainable, closed-loop system is feasible with LEGO pneumatics? I have been toying with the following idea in my mind: Air tanks lend air to an engine and to a power generator, leftover air from the engine going to a turbine, and from that to two compressors. Power from the pneumatic power generator goes to the lego-built compressors which resupply air to the air tanks. Would such a system work? Or am I looking at a pipe dream (pun intended)?
  11. Hello everyone, Please let me introduce to you my first MOC on this website. I've been building for a while and finally I decided to share something; some of you that saw me in the Decreasing number of Mocs topic may be happy to see it. by Guilhem Martineau, on Flickr The 1CXT is a mini backhoe which particularity is to be driven by tracks and not wheels. As a mini backhoe it features a skid steer loader front and a rear mini excavator arm. The tracks allow for lower ground pressure, greater maneuverability and higher pushing or climbing power. Discover more about it here : JCB 1CXT This build has been almost 1.5 years in the making as i don't have much time in engineering school. I designed it using blueprints of the real machine and the scale of it is approximately 1:10. The model is 33 cm long without attachments and the rear arm folded, 78 cm long at maximum length with the fork, 22 cm high and 16 cm wide. by Guilhem Martineau, on Flickr This MOC is an hybrid of pneumatic and RC. I. RC : With the IR receiver you can control the drive with independent tracks control, and the movement of the front loader. The first receiver is for the tracks. They are driven by one L-Motor each. There is a 12:25 ratio so it's enough to move around. The tracks feature a tension system with one soft spring on each track. by Guilhem Martineau, on Flickr The second receiver is for the loader. One L-Motor controls the arm via a 20:12 ratio but I'm not happy with that, I can't figure how to fit a bigger ratio to gain some power. Because there are two big linear-actuators it's good enough. The attachment is tilted thanks to an M-Motor, directly hooked with two 12:12 90° transmission. then two mini linear actuators give the wanted movement. I am quite happy with the tilting range but not with the height, even tho I really can't do anything given the space that I have. by Guilhem Martineau, on Flickr II. Motorized : By turning the switch on the left side of the cab on, you start an XL-Motor and grant power to a second switch. The XL-Motor powers a pneumatic pump and a two way gearbox in the rear of the backhoe. With a red knob you can actuate the outriggers in either way without having to make the XL-motor run in the other direction. The two big outriggers are strong enough to lift the entire machine off the ground. The second switch is located in the roof of the cab. By turning the beacon left or right you rotate the excavator arm via an M-Motor and a worm gear setup. by Guilhem Martineau, on Flickr III. Pneumatics : The pump powered by the XL-Motor is hooked up to 4 switches that control the excavator arm. There are two of them in the cab and two sticking out of the roof. The one on the right hand side of the driver controls the first section of the arm and the one on the left the second section. The second section features an extension via a 1 stud thick cylinder controlled on the left when you are facing towards the arm. It takes the section from 15 to 20 cm to give the bucket, actuated by a 7 stud cylinder, a better reach. by Guilhem Martineau, on Flickr IV. Conclusion : Overall I am quite pleased with myself. The function setup might seem strange but there was no room for full RC and this was the best compromise I could find. The play-ability turned out to be great, my little brother loves it! You can find more pictures on my flickr account! Thank you for reading me and checking out my little loader!
  12. I just built the Mercedes Arocs (set 42043) and it seems that the crane drops hard on the table or truck bed when I set the switches to lower it. Is this the expected behavior, or did I do something wrong in my assembly? If it is the expected behavior, are there any mods with instructions on how to remedy it? I'm wondering if swapping out the lift pneumatics for linear actuators might be viable? Also, if there are any other mods with instructions for the set I'd be very interested in those as well. Thanks so much for the help
  13. Hi. I would like to make a shout out for this company: They have launced a fluid pump compatible with Lego pneumatics. Does anyone have experiences with them? I really like the idea as it is something I always have considered trying to make the pneumatic system less jerky. I would however use a thin silicon oil rather than water... -ED-
  14. Hey there, I wonder if anyone is interested in seeing smaller and or bigger Lego engine pieces. You know those light bluish grey engine block pieces, connecting rods and yellow piston pieces? Smaller and bigger versions of those. Smaller versions can be used to put inside a moc built locomotive, boat or possibly a semi or even pneumatic engines. Bigger ones could be used for huge ships or pneumatic engines. So what do you guys think about this? I could design these things and open a bricklink store for you to buy. Let me know, I think it's a useful idea...
  15. Hi all, I am wondering about if any of you fellow forumers have any experience with using third party 9v dc air compressors with LEGO Pneumatics...? (No advert intended, random sample picture of above mentioned system just to clear things up, the system in question draws around 350-400 milliAmps and generates about 80 Kpa/ 0.8 bar, which i know is on the lower side of performance, but this is why i ask here...) I have made several well (or less so well) working all-LEGO buildt pumps, and as you might guess this alternative would be way more usefull and convenient. I am personally amazed how TLG does not provide by default such a system, it could well live side-by-side with common brick-buildt pumps and i am sure it would be appreciated by Moc builders and AFOL users. We have motors allready, how about mini compressor for convenience and efficiency? Thanks in advance for any comment and/or advice! Any more powerfull suggestion in this size or similar would be very helpfull...
  16. Here's my first attempt at making a fully functional backhoe loader, with motorized functions controlled remotely using two SBricks and pneumatic functions controlled remotely using a wired external pneumatic remote, something I've been inspired to try by Jennifer Clark's models. All in all, the model has 9 motors in it (and 2 more in the remote) and 6 pneumatic circuits. Photos & reading:
  17. Hello all! I don't know if this is in the right place or not, but it's quite an outlandish topic so I'm gonna assume this is right! The pneumatics system has gone through many part additions and changes over the decades. One component that never showed up is the hydraulic motor. Now, I'm aware that hydraulics and pneumatics are very different things, but the operational differences would fade in higher speed applications. What I mean by that is if there were to be a very high speed (due to the differences in how air and liquid drive these motors) gear type or axial piston type motor for example, and you coupled them to the existing planetary gear trains found inside most PF motors, the results in theory would be fairly decent torque and roughly normal lego motor speed inside of a roughly lego motor-sized housing. So why haven't they done this? And how come no one else has done it on the internet so far as I've seen? I know you can make rotary motion using pistons in an "engine" application, but that method has some obvious limitations barring it from actual use in an MOC usually due to size and/or switching inefficiency. Let me know what you all think of this as an idea, and fill me in if you know why this wouldn't work in practice if it doesn't!
  18. Hello all, I have been building recently a 1/10 scale SCORE Class 1 Buggy style vehicle. I have figured out all suspension geometry, caster angle and whatnot, but I would really like to be able to make the suspension not as bouncy. So, I guess my question is, does anyone have good methods for damping shock absorbers so that they are still soft, but return their compression and don't take too much force to compress? I have tested pneumatic cylinders, but they hold my springs from returning, and arent as soft as I'd like. Thanks
  19. Hi all, As an entry to the TC10 contest I would like to try to make a side loaded recycling truck based on Mercedes Atego chassis. The pneumatic is powered by single L Motor and it will be using 7 cylinders. I'm building it for a while so the actual progress is from the first chassis mock-up to current state. Planned functions Pneumatic functions will be following: Side loading of trash bins Trash compacting Body dump Tail gate opening Cabin tilting Other functions: Hog steering connected to cabin steering wheel Fake I4 engine Front and rear suspension Schema of pneumatic system Inspiration The idea is build something like this: with Mercedes Atego 4x4 chasis: Actual progress: Cabin design
  20. Hello everyone, This is going to be (hopefully) my entry for TC10: Front Loader Garbage Truck Functions to be included: Two rear axle with differentials V4 or V6 engine Steering of course with HOG Independent suspension in front Rear axle suspension similar to AROCS Pneumatic pump via M motor or manual pump Pneumatic fork container lift Pneumatic container lift Pneumatic ejector Pneumatic door cover Pneumatic tailgate The picture below shows all the functions. Only the body raise will not be implemented (I'm out of cylinders). It will be a combination of V1 and V2 pneumatics. The scale will be similar to the AROCS, same wheels. And here is a quick prototype to check the feasibility of the front loader. I will post further progress once I get some time to work on it. Any recommendation welcome. Thank you.
  21. It's time for me to submit an entry for the TC10 contest. After toying with a lot of ideas, the idea of a concept bulldozer was the one I gravitated to. I had a lot of fun coming up with the esthetics. Hope you enjoy as well. Features: Power Functions Pneumatic Pump Blade Lift (2 Pneumatic Rams) Blade Tilt/Angle (2 Pneumatic Rams) Hood Opening (1 Pneumatic Ram) Ripper (1 Pneumatic Ram) Opening Driver Door 16 Cylinder Engine I'll post the video soon.
  22. [TC10] Dancing Clone Trooper Description I made a dancing Clone Trooper. The strings are moved by pneumatic cylinders, which are controlled by a custom joystick. Controls: Each leg up/down, independent Each arm left/right, independent Both arms up/down Powered by two L motors, driving two small compressors. Two air tanks are incorporated to make the controls more responsive. The video shows much more than any description ever will. Video Pictures
  23. When TC10 was announced, I just had to come up with something. I didn't collect all those pneumatics for nothing...! However, due to work, I had very little time until now, but that gave me plenty of time to think about what to build when I would have time. I already saw a lot of great entries, and it was hard to come up with something original. It should have a sequencer, because I never built one before, except for the B-model of 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig. After much contemplation, I came up with the following (apologies for the crappy photo: it's late and the light is far from optimal): This is not a dinosaur. It is my prototype box factory. It will move boxes as shown in the front-right (2x2x2 studs) in a GBC-like perpetual motion. Or, that is the idea at least. In the back is a 4-step sequencer. Each cylinder toggles two switches, so that I can separate "logic air" from "work air". The contraption on the right is my "robot". The arm moves up and down, the whole thing can slide forward and backwards on the stands, and the "head", which contains the box, can rotate 90 degrees. The long 1x11 cylinder hanging from the back of the sequencer is going to push a box in the "head", and the small one is going to push it out again. So far, everything sort of works. The big challenge is to make sure that the robot completes his motions within one step of the sequencer. I plan to do this by putting a multi-pump compressor with one or two air tanks on the "work air" channel and a "weak", single pump compressor on the "logic air" channel. I hope that the beefy compressor will make the motions of the robot quick enough. The prototyping with two hand pumps seems to indicate it's feasible. So, I need to build two compressors, a guiding channel for the boxes to bring them from the dumping point back to the beginning, and prettify the whole thing. Four weeks to go, right? What do you think? Can it work? Any advice?
  24. Here is my latest creation. I won't post all the details, please visit in terms of how it works, details, etc. Briefly, I sought to create a funnycar that would propel itself. Because it would be propelling itself, it would have to be fairly large (enough air for short burst of speed), but at the same time light. limiting the coefficient of drag would also be very important. Thus the ungainly looks of the thing. But..... funnycars aren't built for looks, rather for acceleration... right? Kinda inspired by 42050....but I wanted to create something with an engine sound, fast, and help true to the funnycar name. The drivetrain was incredibly simple but effective. Neutral… and one forward drive gear. This is the gear set-up for most drag racers. This can get complex though, with many sophisticated models allowing a type of clutch that limits slip and only allows a certain amount of torque to be applied at different RPM levels. But for all intents and purposes, for this model, all I wanted was neutral and drive. This certainly tested Lego gears, changeover catch, and drive rings. But incredibly, there was no skipping. This was quite amazing given the amount of torque that was applied to the drive train. This is similar to real drag racers. I remember a documentary I watched a while ago stating that the gears in a real drag racer only last 2-3 races before needing replacement because of the tremendous torque, heat, and stress applied. The goal of the drive train was to have a neutral gear so that the engine (which is from, Thanks Alex! I love this engine!) could first rev up. Although the engine is quite powerful in and of itself, the fact that it was already running at approximately 1500 RPMs before the gears engaged really resulted in the car’s speed. The whole set-up looked like what is below. To explain the picture you have the arrows pointing in opposite directions representing the tendency of the drive ring to want to pop out of place because it was trying to engage a set of gears where moving at different speeds (well, one was moving and the other was stationary) and the rubber bands acting against it. Initially, when the engine was started I had an axle placed in the hole where the left arrow is to hold it in place. Placing the axle here would stretch the bands back and disengage the drive. So I would first start the engine, let it rev to approximately 1500 RPMs, put the axle, the bands would pull the catch, engage the drive ring into the receiving gear and….. we were off! The “fuel” that was used was simply air. The air tank was the only thing in this model that was not 100% Lego. All else was. The setup was something that I had built before, just on a smaller scale (one liter bottle). Details can be found here but here are some photos. The 1 liter bottle I used I obviously blacked with spray paint. Simply cut out the nozzle from a bike tube and used very strong epoxy-type glue to seal it all. Worked great. Thanks for taking a look. Hope you enjoyed!
  25. Hello, I'm happy to introduce you to my modular garage with power functions and pneumatics: This modular has the following components: 1x Rechargeable battery box (8878) 1x M motor 1x air tank 1x manometer 2x small pumps (6L) 2x small pneumatic cylinders 2x medium pneumatic cylinders with square base Approximately 1,5m of pneumatic tubes (I didn't count, maybe there's more) I always wanted to mix technic and regular system bricks and I already did so with my Ice Cream Parlor (http://www.eurobrick...opic=111129&hl=). Now, with my third modular, it was time to introduce pneumatics! :D This is the coolest part of LEGO for me and to increase the cool factor I have used manometer as well :D This building's purpose is mostly to have fun, so I didn't care that much for the fact that gigantic manometer on top of the building is rather rare sight in real life ;) I simply always wanted to have one and observe the changing pressure as I play around with my model and here it is! Anyway, we have here compressor that powers cylinders that open the doors (2 small cylinders) and rise and lower the car lift (2 medium w/ square base). The list accepts cars up to 7 wide and has a lot of lifting power. You can remove all three sections of the roof for easy access. Here is full gallery on Bricksafe: And here is movie on youtube: Enjoy!