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Found 154 results

  1. All Thirdwigg Farm Instructions Tractor Instructions Forestry Trailer Instructions Dump Trailer Instructions Disk Harrow Instructions Mechanical Seeder Instructions Power Harrow Instructions Furrow Instructions Snow Plow Instructions Mower Instructions _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ A lot of WIPs going on here is Thirdwiggville, so while the Unimog and SRT are still in progress, let's add another tractor. The tractor came together in 10 days, which is pretty quick for me. Not sure about the mirrors or the air intake, but the rest is pretty final. Now on to the trailers.
  2. I'm back with another ambitious project. The Bobcat Toolcat 5600. I can't remember where I first seen it, but thought it was cool and (to me) practical. So I then searched online and came across System and minifig scale builds. Then I found this build thread on here of a larger PF version. So I set off getting info, working on a plan, and laying down ideas. I wanted to give this build manual functions with pneumatics. I had a hard time getting the scale of the vehicle dialed in as I had some trouble finding good side pics and the right Lego tire. However, as I kept gathering details, I found what the tire size it has and which Lego wheel was closest to a usable scale. I find that a scale of 1:8.4 worked perfect with the 81.6 x 38 (it was just a little wide, but worked fine). Here is the item its self: The real Toolcat has many variations. Solid axles or independent, closed lift arm or split tubes, turbo or not, and so on. The one I used has solid axles, closed lift arm, and an easier engine setup. My build has many functions that tested my mental limits: All-Wheel-Drive All-Wheel Steering Working Suspension Pneumatic Functions Dumping Bed and Tail Gate Front Pneumatic Accessory Hookup On to the building! Starting with the frame for all the bits and bobs to attach to. Trying to find an image of the chassis proved to be pointless, so I did my best guess from regular pictures. This is the first try. It rebuilt it about four times. Engine placement for now. The version of the real one has a four cylinder engine that powers a hydraulic pump. The real one also has hydraulic drive, but that's not for Lego yet. Forgot to snap some pics of the progress, but this is the second build of the chassis/frame. I had to reduce the engine to 3 cylinders to allow for a drive system. The steering changed after this build as I needed to redo the way it was fixed to the frame. The design of the axle. The frame from the bottom. (It changes some in the final) The first layout of the cab... It was the second hardest part... Laying the pneumatic tubes was way to hard having mostly short pieces. One of the early drafts of the cab. I was at a crossroads by not having enough #3 connectors, running out of white parts, not having enough black 5L/7L beams or 3x7 panels, and no tan technic parts. So I redesigned the door and found that the ribbed hosed worked great. That's the bulk of the build process, the rest was fine tweaks, subtle add-ons, and fighting with Pneumatic hoses. So here is the final product: There are plenty more pictures here! Thank you for your time.
  3. It has been quite a while since I last posted here. But this Project seems to be worth sharing with you. At 9869 parts and 8.4 kg, it is by far our largest project. The goal was to include motorized driving and pneumatic suspension without using any of the interior space. So yes, it has a real low floor going through the whole length. RC-functions: - The third axle is driven using 4 PF L motors, 2 CaDA metal u-joints and the new LEGO heavy duty diff. We destroyed many parts while prototyping. We tried to include a 2-speed gearbox, off-center diff, no diff at all and single wheel drive. The current setup is the only one which was working in the end. - The first axle is steered by a PF servo, located under the driver seat. - The bus has two separate pneumatic systems. One for the suspension and one for the doors. Both have their own manometer and pump, actuated by a PF L motor. The suspension system has 2 air tanks, the door system has 1. - The left suspension can be raised manually with a switch in the driver's cabin. The right side is operated by a PF servo. We included a check valve to enable slow kneeling. The switches are connected in such a way that the pressure in the air tanks is always kept while kneeling. The suspension system uses 22 small pneumatic cylinders and 10 shock absorbers. - The doors are also operated by a PF servo. The second and third door can be disabled separately from the driver's cabin. The system has a total of 6 cylinders. - We managed to hide a micro motor under a seat behind the first axle. It is used to unfold the wheelchair ramp. We used a red 9244a u-joint to hide the mechanism in the side wall. - A total of 8 LED pairs is used for the lighting. The functions are controlled by 4 s-bricks. For power supply we use one 84599 rechargeable battery box and one buwizz brick. The bus uses 14 extension wires and 14+ meters of hose. One of the hardest challenges was to prevent the bus from bending. The floor is only 2 studs thick and has weak spots over each axle. The roof is responsible for the rigidity while only being connected to the lower section with a few liftarms. It also houses most of the technic. There are several tight spots where every millimeter is used for hoses and wires. Problems: The suspension system is very unreliable. Many of the small cylinders leak if they are unevenly loaded. We had to buy more of them than we need and still the kneeling does not work every time. The front and rear section are only connected with one turntable in the roof and one pin in the floor which makes it hard to pick the bus up. The building time was 3 years with many breaks. We wanted to replicate the exact version of the bus which is used in Munich. Unfortunately all articulated buses with 3 doors were retired during the building process. It is very disappointing that we could not build it in blue because LEGO thinks it is a good idea to use 5 different shades of blue than releasing all basic parts in one color. As usual we published free building instructions at rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-126294/Fosapifi/man-lions-city-g-articulated-low-floor-bus/#parts If you want to watch the instructions for entertainment, we also have a video version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiKy4xixxmo You can find a very ugly pneumatic plan in the instructions. The bellows are a further developed version of Sariel's design: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8_YJK_WNpY Also big shout out to the incredible CapaCity L by krolli: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/167663-articulated-bus-like-capacityl/
  4. Hi Boys and Girls, I am happy to share my newest creation. Follow link for instructions More details here 3D-Play here This Grand Prix Air-Truck is an alternate build for official model 42144 Material Handler. All 805 required parts to build comes with this set and there is no need for other parts or other sets to build this Truck. In order to give this model a complete look, 7 spare parts are required that are all available with set 42144. Inspired by a real Race Truck, this model features: manual steering with knob openable doors on both sides tiltable cabin with lock V6 engine with moving pistons Pneumatic functions high-adjustable rear-axle with air air-suspension detailed design 32cm x 15cm x 15cm (38cm with open cab) In scale, this alternate build fits all mid-sized Trucks from the past years with the same tires and rims. Impressions Air-Suspension and how it works This model comes with Pneumatics and an adjustable rear axle that is connected to the V6-engine, where air-filled cylinders acts like shock absorbers. The lower the air-pressure is, the smoother the suspension works. The harder the air-pressure is, the harder the shock absorbtion works. The rear can be adjusted from low with no suspension to the highest point with full air-suspension. Instructions are very clear and understandable on how to connect Pneumatic-parts and tubes. Instructions Premium PDF instructions for this 42144 alternate build comes with 181 pages of high quality images and building steps to ensure a long and satisfying building experience. Following are example pages to show the quality of instructions: We will Truck you. This Grand Prix Air-Truck alternate build uses almost all parts from the given set 42144. Have fun with it.
  5. Inspired by LEGO 8292 Cherry Picker, I've created a pneumatic rendition of that model as an alternate build of LEGO 42128 Heavy Duty Tow Truck. Pneumatic Cherry Picker by Brick Random, on Flickr My Pneumatic Cherry Picker has the following functions: steering (turn the knob on top of the cab) raise arm (pneumatic) extend/retract arm (pneumatic) turn arm (lift and turn the knob on top of the cab) open doors (manual) 4 cylinder engine driven by the four rear wheels A video demonstrating the functions: The basic shape of the original model is still visible in the final build of the Pneumatic Cherry Picker. However, the internal structure is almost entirely new, as a result of changing from mechanical to pneumatic operation of the arm, adding the engine (with two differentials for the four rear wheels) and the availability of parts in 42128. Instructions The model consists of 900 parts (all from 42128 Heavy Duty Tow Truck). Building instructions (a 215 step PDF document) are available on Rebrickable: https://reb.li/m/123565 More pictures are available on Flickr: Pneumatic Cherry Picker by Brick Random
  6. This topic is for pneumatic tips and tricks, how to use pneumatics and mocs including pneumatics or just general things about pneumatics. Ps mods if you feel this topic is not required feel free to remove. I just made this seeing there was no general discussion on pneumatics.
  7. Greetings All, Apologies for being very late to the party, but the TC10 pneumatic competition brings together my favourite parts of what technic is all about and I really wanted to contribute. A number of years ago I had to good fortune to come across a big bunch of pneumatic parts. Having worked on all sorts of pneumatic based MOC's my beloved wife put out the challenge to build her a steam train thus beginning a five year odyssey before finally arriving at the model I present to you all today. Creating a genuinely functioning Lego Pneumatic Locomotive has been a real challenge, searching the internet brings up very few examples. Creating a valve assembly that is both functional and reasonably robust within the confines of lego has proven quite the challenge. Rather than completely reinventing the wheel, I have based my model on a simplified version of Walschaerts Valve Gear that was used on many steam trains through history. I set out at the start of this competition to make a fully reversible valve gear as per the real thing but it proved too much of a challenge at this stage - see how the next few years pans out. The Model: Classic 4-8-2 locomotive configuration using 62.4 tyres for driving wheels old style clear pneumatic cylinders for drive old style pneumatic valves Six manually operated pneumatic pumps - this thing need lots of air. All parts use are original, unmodified, genuine Lego items. The reason I have used "old" style valves is that they are the ones that I could find with minimal resistance, allowing the whole system to function property. Starting with the final result for those of us into instant gratification; This is the final interpretation of my pneumatic locomotive. I will, however make you scroll further for the video. The key to the success of this model is has been in effectively copying the principals behind the walschaerts valve system where the throw of the valves is delayed by the eccentric on the main driving wheel. It is only once the piston ( pneumatic cylinder) has reached the end of it's stroke that the valve is thrown in the opposite direction to push it back the other way. The two valve trains on either side of the loco are offset by 90 degrees so that they "help" each other past the dead spot at the limits of each cylinder's stroke. No matter what I tried, the fundamental principal was "More Steam Coalmam!' In manual form, 6 pumps are required to provide adequate air supply. Four air reservoirs for the testing phase and three in the final model smooth the pulses from six manual pumps to a point that we have reasonably smooth motion. Lucky last, a brief video showing how it works. I'll try to post an ldraw of the basic mechanism in the not too distant future but instructions are well outside my current skill set. If you've got this far, thanks very much for taking the time, I hope it's proven interesting. The Brown Hornet
  8. Hey guys, During a chat I was pointed to the Steinwinter Supercargo 2040. I was fascinated by the look and decided to build it. It was designed by the german engineer Manfred Steinwinter. During my research, I found out that he build only one prototype, but planned many more versions. I liked the three-axled version and so started with a rough sketch to get an idea of the proportions: While I was searching for images of that truck, I also contacted the current IP owner and asked for blueprints. Fortunately he liked my project and he send me some. Since then this truck went through many iteration of improvements and design changes. In the end I decided to use Powered Up to control it. This is the current state: These are planned/implemented features and specifications: Current weight: 3kg Length: 86 studs Height: 14 studs Width: 27 studs Power supply: 4x Technic hub Driving: 4x C+ XL motor, each motor is connected to one hub to spread the load (3,528:1, theoretically 0,74 km/h @7,5V @124Ncm) Steering: 1x C+ L motor, two steered axles with Ackerman geometry Compressor: 1x C+ L motor, 4 pumps 3 RC valves: 3x C+ L motor, 3x newest valve one for each the rear axle, front/middle left wheel, front/middle right wheel Angle sensor for suspension on front and middle axle: 2x C+ XL and 2x Boost Medium motors OR 2x C+ XL Angle sensor for rear axle: 1x motor (not implemented yet) Air/pneumatic suspension on all axles controlled by Powered Up double wishbone suspension on fron and middle axle Each front/middle wheel on the left and right side are one unit. That means if the front wheel is pushed up the middle wheel is pushed down. That way the weight is equally distributed on the wheels live rear axle When I decided to use Powered Up I thought about controlling the ride height somehow with Powered Up. To do that I needed something to read the position of the double wish bone arms and the rear axle. Since several motors in the C+/Powered Up eco system can report their position, tried to use them to read the angle of the suspension arm. I successfully implemented that on the front and middle axle. For the rear axle I haven't found a good solution yet, because that axle can move on two axis. While I'm waiting for some additional parts, I'm working on the solution for the rear axle. As for the code, I already made a proof of concept. I created a test setup and wrote some code, which reads the angle of a suspension arm and adjusts it to the desired value. for the finished MOC a can think of something like a parking height, highway ride height and more or less off-road height. Once the chassis is finished the and the Powered Up is working I'll start working on body. Feel free to leave comments, critique and suggestions.
  9. I present to you the "3" wheeled loader. The back wheels act as one, It was an idea spawned from a mix of the Bell 3 wheeled sugarcane loader and BM-VOLVO LM loader, so a three wheeled loader. Took me a little longer to build then I care to admit, because of the lift arms and the not having the hoses kink or bind. It's nothing special as far as build goes. It might look better if I had a little smaller bucket. The truck used for the demonstration is a slightly modified version of grego18's on Rebrickable. More pictures HERE.
  10. Hi all, always starting from this inspiring discussion... ... @Reker1000000 introduced me to a very particular locomotive: "DB V3201 seems like it would be an interesting starting point for a locomotive to model in 12v style with the red motor..." The locomotive we're speaking about is the DRG V3201, one of the first experiments to upgrade from steam to Diesel engines. In this case, Diesel motors were available , but problem was related to transmitting their power to the wheels. Gears were too weak, Hydraulic transimission was still in development...so the idea was to replace steam with compressed air, therefore maintaining the "old" transmission system (including distribution) used by steamers. In short, it worked this way: DIESEL ENGINE --> COMPRESSOR --> RESERVOIR -->CYLINDERS --> COUPLING RODS --> WHEELS More or less what is seen in some Pneumatic locomotives made in Lego (great stuff!) with electric motors. Well, seems great, but there were many problems related to the heating of compressed air, its cooling (!) and cylinders lubrication - all for maintaining its efficiency. Here's an interesting link! http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/diesair/diesair.htm All in all - a very complex hybrid system, with many gaps to be solved with engineering "patches". But it's a cool locomotive and making it in 12v style could really be a challenging task. First of all, it's the most asymmetric thing I've ever seen , second - it's a very tormented design - which cannot be captured fully in 12v style, due to lack of parts at the time. It's however a very peculiar locomotive (depicted also in a postal stamp!!!) and it's worth to be tried. Here it is, just out of the shed , helped by a small V60. In reality, this event could not happen, since the V3201 was scrapped many years before the launch of the little shunter, but since we can do whatever we like with our fantasy, I was more optimistic and imagined a restored V3201 ready for some hystorical train! The V3201 is based on the chassis of a BR78, which - luckily - is one of the 12v locomotives I've already tried to create. Therefore, chassis was already prepared and only needed to be adapted to the longer body. This big beast has a quite boxy body, which seems to be made soldering together some parts of cabins, cut from steam locomotives. The central part of the body is sticking a bit out from the overall shape, and this is due to the big submarine diesel and air reservoirs. The main charachteristics are the two big gray radiators, the small windows on the corridor side, and those big stairs. Stairs were a nice thing to replicate, even if these are not the same as in the prototype. I did not use the big train doors, since these did not allow me to recreate the stairs and handrails. In the real thing, the stairs go over the cylinders, so using the 12v standard ones was quite a mess. I replicated them with normal parts. and this was not a problem. I had however to "cut" the stairs in half, the upper one being fixed to the body, while the lower one being part of the bogie (and turning accordingly). With the 12v motor, this design needed to be somehow adapted. On a real 12v motor, the central hole can accept an half Technic pin. Using a normal Techic brick some plates and tiles solved the problem. The ladder is kept in place by the pin and "slides" together with the motor. Between the radiator and the cabin there's a small, virtually transparent door since it's made of a panel full of small holes. The body in reality should be 4-wide in that point. I tried fences, door fences, everything did not fit and SNOTting was quite impossible (for me at least), given the limited parts available. Even Marklin's model is solid in that point, so I concentrated more on having at least a grille pattern. Using the ladder part was not so nice, it was just confusing. I therefore tried the just seen @zephyr1934 technique (thanks to you and Katy!), to have some visible horizontal lines. I used 3794b parts (jumper) . It works also with normal plates, but this is way better. Doors features a possible, even if not used at the time, SNOT for the door hadle, using headlamps bricks. Here's a shot from above, showing the 7-wide central part of the locomotive. As you can see I played a lot with the jumpers parts. And here's the "blind side" of the locomotive there's not so much to say ,being pretty smooth! Apart big red wheels and red motor, 2x1x2 and 1x1x2 black windows are there, just to remember there's some 7730s and 7750s blood inside the veins of this "thing". Here is visible the big radiator... ...and here is visible the smaller one. Looking better at the central headlight you can see some "white stuff" between the bricks - it's the classic 12v light brick with the addition of a small diode. This old trick allows the headlight to be lighten up according to locomotive's direction. Radiator is made by 1x1 plates, trying to replicate the "pattern" of the real thing. I put here red lights in 7777 style, even if these should be white, according to prototype. A brief mention to the Shed - it's an old MOD - I do not sincerely remember if I already presented it here in Eurobricks. It's a 7777 build, converted to a more shed-looking thing. Since I like to replicate dioramas in 12v style, this could be a nice addition to the overall scene. I hope you like it! Thanks again to @Reker1000000 for his inspirational idea! Ciao, Davide
  11. Hi, I designed a pretty compact inline 3 pneumatic engine: If someone‘s interested, I‘ll consider making instructions. Pascal Here are some pictures: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0nS1bu-NzDFND9IuROoaiSaQw https://bricksafe.com/pages/Paacsl/compact-inline-3-lpe
  12. Hello everybody! I have been recently thinking about building the V8 WK3 pneumatic engine, from Greek Gecko Workshops. On their page, it says that to get max RPM you need 116 psi, and you need to be able to hook the engine up to an air compressor. Does anybody know how to do this? I have not been able to find any answers. Thanks, LegoBuilder919
  13. Hey everyone, you must check out the share your trucks forum for many talented eurobricker’s inspirational truck designs! But this topic is for those who have made their own custom trailers and mods that they are proud of! I will start first Here is my trailer for my custom Semitruck. I am currently designing a nice off-road capable caravan which I hope some of you would like to see, I am almost finished and I will post it here when I am done.
  14. Hi everyone After one year I finished another MOC. Here I present my wheel loader inspired by Volvo wheel loader L120H with technic chassis and creator style body. The model is controlled by two Sbricks an powered by one small PF battery boy. The boom and the bucket are controlled with pneuamtic cylinders coupled to a geared servo motor with the newest pneumatic valves. Like this it is possible to control "heavy" loads precisely. Furthermore, the model has an auto compressor which is controlled via the BrickController2 app, where it is possible to add one port of the Sbrick (here the compressor) to two independent other functions (here the two servo motors with the valves). Like this the pump always switches on as soon as one of the pneumatic function is selected. But check the functionality in the following video: Instruction is available on rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-64106/FT-creations/wheel-loader-inspired-by-volvo/#details
  15. Hi, I stored my MB Arocs for about half a year. I rebuilt the B model into the A model, but the pneumatics just won’t work. I looked for any kinks in the hoses, tried the pump, tried the cilinders with nothing attached, and it all works fine. The cilinders are also re-oiled. If I attach the first section of the crane, it works fine. However, if I put the second section on, the cilinder can’t lift the crane. The problem lies just with the first cilinder. I even swapped the cilinder for the second section with the cilinder for the first section, but both cilinders seam too weak for the weight of the crane. I’m not really experienced or anything with this kind of stuff, I just build and play, and if I make MOCs its certainly not with pneumatics. I read several forums but all the solutions given there were the things I already tried. So, has anyone an idea what this might be? Maybe because I stored my Arocs the cilinders caught too much dust? PS. I also thought about adding an air tank, but I don’t know if that solves the problem?
  16. https://youtu.be/UFPNWZeeXQw Lego Pneumatic Engine. What is it? How to make it? The first it needs to finish Lego fake cylinder like in this video https://youtu.be/HcHneyewATE or https://youtu.be/0aZvWva41Ek. The second - to add o-ring to Lego piston like in this video https://youtu.be/wZu-l32Dajw or .
  17. Hello everyone: I am glad to share this project, the mining excavator, based on Cat 6090. Phisycal Configuration: The Lego Cat6090 is a motorized digger on tracked wheels, 2 XL motors provided enough torque. On the track frame is placed the main structure, and a heavy duty turntable allows good rotations, without fricctions. The turntable is rotated by means of 1 XL motor. The main structure contains: the XL motor for turntable, the air compressor, 4 servos for pneumatic valves and the controller. The design is ultra compact in order to meet the requierement of size/scale. The tracked whell is ultra rigid structure, designed to resist extreme load. The air compressor has 4 XL motor and 2 pneumatic pumps, in order to provide a constant air flow and high pressure, both pumps are de-phased 180° in order to reduce vibrations. 4 PF-servos open/close 2 way air valves, to command all pneumatic actuators. The boom has 2 large pneumatic actuator. Due to heavy height of the boom, 4 spring supply extra force during the elevation. 2 large pneumatics actuators push/pull the arm, those actuators are placed below the arm. 2 large penumatics actuators dedicate to rotate the bucket. 1 medium pneumatic actuator, open/close the bucket. Electrical configuration: Three 18650 batteries provide an average of 11.1 V, the compressor are suplied with 11.1 V, and the servos, lights and turntable motor are suplied with 9V. A BMS (Battery Managment System) manages the charge and the discharge durgin the operation. The tracked frame is steering by the use of 11.1 V, and as well is manage by the use of a BMS. On Board System (OBS): The name given to the controller. There are two systems, one for the main structure, and the secund is used to move the tracked well. The main controller, is a server TCP/IP protocol. The controller has a ESP8266 microcontroller with a TCP/IP stack, this controller is able to be programmed in arduino languaje (also micropython) - Teh ESP8266 is used as a sever, Motor driver: used to control the compressor The 4 PF servos are controlled by means of digital outputs, and the lights. ld293d, this is a H-bridge used to control the turntable motor. The second controller, is a ESP8266 as a client, and controls the speed of the tracks. Also, it has a BMS in order to regulates the charges/discharge of the batteries Accessories: 1) Josyticks: Two joysticks, with 4 dof (degrees of freedom) each of one plus a on/off button, are connected to the server module. 2) App: An application developmented under Android studio is used to visualizate the air pressure and electrical current, this app is WIP (work in progress). Conectivity: The comunication used is socket TCP/IP- Main features: maximun pressure reached: 52 psi (358 Kpa) Voltage bus: 11.1 V Compressor electrical consuption: 23 W Weight: 6 kg Length: 30 cm width: 20 cm height: 30 cm Here some pictures, during the construction and commissioning Note: my apologies for my primitive english
  18. Dear fellow LEGO enthusiasts, I am in dire need of some help from you folks who are definitely more knowledgeable than I. In this case, I am needing help with the replication of the RMS Titanic's Reciprocating Engines and Turbine. I am in the midst at the moment of working on the project below, though I have not updated it in a great while due to university work. See this link here for the project thread. But this is a minifig scale project, with every door, every window accounted for. This means that in regards to the engines, I am also seeking to make them at least somewhat true to scale and able to work as intended. Obviously this is a big job of some top notch Edwardian-era engineering, but I am hoping that there might be some out there not as technically-challenged (pun totally intended) as I am, willing to help me get this part of the project off the ground. Some of the features I I am looking for include a fully air-powered system, where the air supply would come from tanks hidden in the mock-boilers, that are then funneled at somewhat high pressure to the Triple Recip. Engines, which means that the pressure would go down as it goes through each cylinder (HP, IP, then two LPs). The leftover air at a much lower pressure then goes to a junction that can either go to the Parson's Turbine at what was historically 4 psi, or can go directly to the condensers. With the latter I intend just to make the outside of it and hide inside some custom compressors like this. That would then return to the original air supply. With this I am hoping that I will have a self-supplying system with ideally no more than 5% leakage, or enough compressors that leaks are compensated for. WIth the Parson's Turbine, that can be an accurate shell with whatever is needed inside to include a working turbine, and probably with an gearbox and ascending set of gear ratios to give it the necessary torque. These engines and turbine are meant to actually turn the propellers, perhaps even in water! Some other features would include a replica of the Brown-type reversing engine on the side of each of the Recip engines, making it so that the Stevenson-type eccentrics can change the direction of rotation. Considering the scale, the reversing engine doesn't technically have to be much more than a slightly-hidden piston that does the required job, but any more realism doesn't hurt. If something like this is possible, please let me know. I am really wanting to continue with this project, and this is a central part of it. But without the pieces in front of me instead of on a computer screen, what little I know of engineering definitely doesn't help without that tactile interaction. Thanks for your time, and I look forward to your replies! If it is possible, then I can follow up with the intended dimensions. Here are some references for any that wants some: View of turbine and condensers through wall from main engines rotor shaft model of port-side recip. engine overall basic view path of the steam of original, pressurized air for mine
  19. Hello all, Further to this post: Can anyone confirm if 42080 contains the revised pump variant, with the square, reinforced base? I know that the updated part was implemented in 2018, but I'm not sure if it made it into 42080. Thank you.
  20. Hi everyone. Here is my entry for this contest. As always i've build this with/for my childrens and as usual this model hass to be safe and secure for them. This said, i've been asking for long what to build for this contest. I didn't have that much pneumatics elements and i do thought that my chances with this contest were proportionals to the number of pneumatic parts i owned. Until i had a closer look at 42053 set... So i present here my vision of what could be a Volvo Handler (i think volvo didn't build this kind of machine) here it is: it is a very simple Moc. My main goal has been to integrate the powerfunctions elements (1 BB + 1 motor) and get the maximum playability with the Moc. I do use the battery pack as the main frame assembly of the model. this way, i think i realised one good design work on it. They are 3 pneumatics functions: 1- Main arm up and down 2- Fork tilting 3 - Fork thooth up and down. Also, there is one direction with HOG on the four wheels.This Moc is designed to be playable and fun to use. It doesn't need more function to scratch that goal ;) The functions work pretty well and the compressor is a very pleasant feature on a Moc like this one. The arm movement has a good range of action and is particulary powerfull due to the large pneumatics cylinder i used. ( i didn't have any other o:) ) Here is a back view. round design for the mudgards, a color scheme that fits with it's great sister 45053, custon stikers (official stikers sheet): On this view you can see the commands (3 orange commands) : the two backwards are for the arm movement and the lateral one is for the fork opening Detailed view of the fork i used. It is obvisouly possible to connect a regular bucket at this arm end: And once it is opened Detailed view on back design with the official Volvo stikers on it and the rounded mudgards In conclusion this Moc come perfectly together the 42053 Set and as well with my last Volvo crane truck. It was a great building experience (and realy quick build :) ) Hope you'll enjoy it. Regards, Steph Ps video coming hopefully before the dateline :)
  21. I've been playing around a lot with pneumatics lately, and want to show you one of my recent MOCs. This one has been made over the last week, from a smaller, more yellow prototype. It is fairly small (scaled to the tracks, as they are the size they are), and the width of the body is 15 studs, compared to 8043's 19. Also, it's manual. No compressor or anything. I'll go ahead and show it off in "Excavator mode" first As you can see, the range of movement is quite decent, and it folds up pretty nicely for a transport configuration. The boom is lifted by two of the old style long pneumatic cylinders, and the dipper and bucket are each controlled with one normal cylinder. There is a third pneumatic circuit going to the end of the boom, but it's not in use when it only has a normal excavator bucket mounted. There is also a dozer blade on the chassis, operated by two small pneumatic cylinders. Next I have fitted the material handling claw, and as you can see this is where the extra pneumatic circuit comes in to play. The claw is operated with two small pneumatic cylinders. An added feature present is many material handlers is a lifting operator's cab. This has been implemented with a normal pneumatic cylinder. Next up is a picture of the top of the superstructure, with the pneumatic lines and some detail of the cab lifting function Now, if you've made it this far. you might wonder where the pneumatic pump is ? As I said, the model is afterall manual Well, it is actually mounted horizontally inside the superstructure. The 2L black pin connector (on the right hand side of the grey "air filter") in the above picture is connected to it, and by pushing it forward, you pump air into the system. Here is a picture from an early stage in the build that shows the principle: Also the valves are hidden on various places inside the superstructure. Well, that's it more or less, hope you guys like it. Like I said, this was put together fairly quickly, so there is definitely room for improvement both aestethically and build-wise (the inside is per now a mess of reinforcing and pneumatic tubing with not much system to it Lastly, another picture with one of my other recent pneumatic MOCs (still a WIP): EDIT: All pictures, as well as some others, can be found in a lot higher resolution in this Bricksafe folder I have recently started using my aging DSLR again, so it might be worth a look if you want to see more details
  22. Hello! Finally my entry is done: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=546318 It's a pneumatic submarine. I wanted to make something similar to the 8868 B model (which is the best B of all time imho), but 200 parts aren't much for that. So I decided to make a pneumatic sequencer base, which allows an automatic function circuit. Working method: two pneumatic cylinder are connected to the other's valve, they control each other. The big cylinder controls the two small. : Promo pictures: So the main function is the pneumatic arm, other smaller ones are described in this picture. Video is available below. Made with 200 parts: Other pictures: Thanks to the outer shell with the yellow panels, the submarine is pretty rigid: Control panel in the cockpit: The inner structure with all pneumatic parts: Video: link: I know, there isn't much time left to the end of the contest, but in the last few weeks I was very busy. Fell free to ask or comment, I'm courious about your opinion. .LXF file for instructions: www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Submarine/mini-submarine-ldd-instructions.lxf .
  23. Pneumatic Grab Machine is something like futuristic excavator with grab function - Pneumatic cylinders - Manual pump control - 2 M-Motors for drive - PF Battery Box - IR receiver
  24. Hi, Bought a nice lot yesterday with some interesting technic parts. My five year old started building right away and was very interested in the pneumatic cylinders that were in there. But as it goes with five year olds, he was also a little too excited with pumping away the cylinder and that resulted in the seperation of the piston and the cylinder. It does not look to be broken off, but I'm not sure if it's fixable or not. I want to try to repare it, but I don't know how to open it. I've seen some posts about opening the cylinder but they are always the later versions. This is the red one which was only in one set: 8040 building set. (part number 4688c01) Does anyone have some tips about opening it and if it's reparable or not? Thanks!
  25. Time for a dedicated topic as well. Link for high res image: https://mega.nz/#!qDQh2aZC!9L0SMGXuq9L_1oSgaaj20bn-H47tcH2jS8gCeEgJlFM This is the ultimate color barf that TLG has managed to produce: - Lime - Green - White - Yellow - Black - DBG - Red - Blue - Medium Azure - Reddish Brown Discoveries: - If you zoom into the cabin you can see a water bottle with a silver cap - There is a 6L towball link bar under the front row of wheels.