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This topic is for pneumatic tips and tricks, how to use pneumatics and mocs including pneumatics or just general things about pneumatics. Ps mods if you feel this topic is not required feel free to remove. I just made this seeing there was no general discussion on pneumatics. -
Does anybody else absolutely love lego Pneumatics (LPE's, simple functions, etc.)? I would love for this topic to just be a thread where we can share creations made with pneumatics, hopefully I am not the only one. -
TECHNIC PNEUMATIC CONTEST By popular demand the next Eurobricks Technic Contest is all about Pneumatics. The new Volvo EW160E has been released recently, so it seems like a logical moment to focus on Pneumatics. In the past we've had several great Pneumatic models and recently we kind of lacked a nice manually operated model. TLG stepped up and released the Volvo. They even created a new hand pump for this model. So Pneumatics V2 is very much alive! DESCRIPTION Design a pneumatic model operated by one or more hand pumps and/or one or more (PF) motors powering one or more pneumatic pumps. So you can use motors as long as they are used to drive a pneumatic pump. They can't be used for other functions (not even to operate a pneumatic switch). There's no limit on the number of hand or motorized pumps and you can use. Third party hosing, strings and rubber bands are allowed. No other 3rd party parts. LEDs (and other LEGO lights) are permitted when you are using one or more motorized pumps. Since this contest is all about Technic and Pneumatic, Model Team entries are NOT allowed. A studded model is okay (like the excavator in the picture) but don't turn it into a Model Team entry. DEADLINE Deadline date is Monday 31st of October, 2016. Contest will be closed on Tuesday 1st of November, OR LATER. Disclaimer: I will close the contest when I see fit and when I have the time to process the results. This can be later than the deadline date. Please don't complain about this not being fair and all. RULES AND REGULATIONS The following section describes the contest specific and general rules and regulations. But before that, please take notice of a simple motto regarding the Eurobricks Contests: CONTESTS ARE FOR FUN! Of course there's competition, but at the end of the day, LEGO is just a hobby and the main goal for each of us is to have fun! CONTEST SPECIFIC RULES AND REGULATIONS Model Team entries are NOT permitted. Studded is okay, but no model team. One or more PF motors ARE permitted as long as they operate pneumatic pump(s). You CAN combine hand pumps and motorized pumps. Umbilical cords for hand pumps, switches or other operations ARE permitted. You can use ANY type of motor, as long as it's operating a pump. PF or other motorization is NOT permitted for non pump functions (not even operating a pneumatic switch). LEDs (and other LEGO lights) ARE permitted ONLY in combination with a motorized pump. There is NO limit on the number of pumps or pneumatic cylinders. 3rd party strings, hoses and rubber bands ARE permitted. Other 3rd party parts are NOT permitted. Linear actuators are NOT permitted. Electronics (PF elements used for non pump functions, SBricks and Mindstorms) are NOT permitted. Pullback motors are NOT permitted. There is NO size limit. GENERAL RULES AND REGULATIONS The contest is open to all EB members (also new members). Members who joined EB after the start of the contest can be banned from voting (when vote rigging is suspected). Voting rules will be explained later in the voting topic. One entry per member. Entries need to be new (never posted anywhere previously or shown at an event/LUG meeting). Only physical builds, so no LDD or other virtual entry. If you have any doubts about the suitability of your entry contact me, or Milan. All entries are to include only real LEGO. No clone brands, 3rd party parts, or digital entries allowed. Custom stickers are allowed. No cutting, sculpting or modifying parts. Entries are to be placed in the entry topic in this forum. Entries not in the entry topic are not eligible for voting. The entry post may be edited at any time up to the end of the contest, so feel free to make improvements if you wish. The contest might be closed later than the deadline. Don't complain about this not being fair. You have enough time to build. Don't ask for more time. We reserve the right to disqualify any entry that does not follow these rules. These rules can be changed whenever we see fit to ensure that people follow the intent of the contest. Staff members are Jim is not eligible for winning prizes. WHAT DO I NEED TO ENTER? All participant need to create a discussion topic and create a post in the entry topic. DISCUSSION TOPIC A discussion topic starting with [TC10]. A discussion topic needs to show some actual progress (i.e. pictures of the build in progress) and should NOT be used to "reserve an idea". ENTRY POST The entry post in the entry topic should contain: Entry name Short summary of the functions. One or more pictures Embedded video (mandatory) Link to the discussion topic PRIZES Prizes will be sponsored by the guys from Vengit (SBrick), for which I am of course very thankful. Keep up the good work guys. WINNERS The Top-3 contestants will receive a copy of the new Volvo EW160E! And of course they will be rewarded with a medal tag. CONTESTANTS Each contestant will be rewarded a pneumatic tag as well. -
Hi guys! Herre is my entry for the pneumatic contest. It's a volvo wheeled excavator. I was not really happy witthe new volvo excavator o I have decided to make my own Fonctions are: (Frame) HOG at the rear of the chassis; Rear stabilizers; Front blade (Turret) PF pneumatic pump operated by m motor First boom section (large pneumatic cylinder) Second boom section (large pneumatic cylinder) Bucket (Medium pneumatic cylinder) Here are the pictures: I hope you like this if you have any questions don't hesitate to post! Have a good day! -
Good day! Just instantly got the idea of making a unimog with pneumatic attachments. Functions that will be included: -4x4 -Fake engine with moving pistons -Pneumatic ports on front and rear -Mechanical outputs on front and rear -Attachments using these outputs -Tiltable cabin -The PTO's can be engaged to the drive -Tiltable bed -HOG For now the front axle, has steering and drive. Probably will have a pendular suspension on front. I made some more progress, in an hour the images will be, right now can't upload them. LDD file shows the actual progress. I also made a folder on Bricksafe Also I used Sariel's scale tool to get exact dimensions of the model based on the wheels -
Hi! This is my first topic on the forum, I would probably not have posted at all if it weren't for the pneumatic contest. A combination of me seeing the 42053 EW160 and finding my old lego technic from late 90's and early 00's led me to this forum filled with nice people playing with arguably the most versatile toy ever. I'm a trained mechanical engineer, though not practicing my trade yet, and looking back I believe Lego Technic was one of the big inspirations that made me choose that career path. Back in the day I had (and still have) a 8459 pneumatic wheel loader, and now I was leaning towards buying the 42053 EW160. But why not test my skills (and luck?) by making a nice little MOC for the contest. Enough drivel about the good old days, over to what I've come up with so far. Please bear with me, I am aware that you guys are way better at this, have more parts at home etc. The point of this project was to make something that I actually wanted for my already existing sets without costing a fortune for me to buy and build. It's a trailer suitable for both the 8459 and 42053, inspired by the Swedish-made trailers from Metsjö. I wanted it to be more than just a regular trailer with tipping function, so I'm aiming for a two-step high tip function which raises the rear of the bed before tipping it. The tailgate is automatically opening and closing with the tipping, thanks to a lever on each side which are connected to the frame. The final "function", so far, is a parking support in the front. This is what I've come up with so far, I must say that LDD is really bad when you want to try the functionality of your model. I still haven't figured out how to make the pneumatic circuit work as intended. The goal is to put the main switch on the Digger/Loader/Tractor pulling the trailer, leaving the two-step function automated and built into the trailer. So when you pull the lever to tip your load, it first lifts the rear, then tips. I'm hoping that my old friends, the laws of physics, will solve this for me without the need of two extra switches on board to route the air, but I suspect that Murphy's law will decide my fate in the end. So what do you guys think? Too simple and easy? Too predictable? Put on a LA and paint it gray and you'll end up with half an Arocs? Awesome? Improvements? Other ideas? If the feedback is good enough I'll just have to convince my bank account that I need to make an "investment" or two on bricklink to build it IRL. There's still a lot of things that needs testing which is not possible in LDD, so I'm a bit scared that I will have bought a bunch of bricks that won't work... metsjo-trailer.lxf -
Hello All, Today I am presenting my WIP Pneumatic Car Transporter. I hope to build a truck like this one: I hope to include: HOG steering a working V6 engine opening doors many pneumatically raised and lowered (platforms?) Here is what I have in LDD so far, and IRL the body is almost complete. Please tell me what you think of it so far. Thank you! -
Well, my Bricklink and Google-fu has failed me, so I'm wondering if anyone else has found any educational sites/webshops that sell Lego pneumatic cylinders for lower than Bricklink/Brickowl, and Ebay. If you have any ideas, that would be much appreciated. Sadly, I can't seem to order any parts individually directly from Lego, so that's why I ask. Also, I did some searching, and i have found a place that is not an Ebay store, where you can get some Lego compatible pneumatic tubing. Philo actually discovered this stuff. Versilic Tubing. It's available on Amazon, under science, and lab supplies, and there are many lengths available. What you are after is the tubing that is 1/8 inch(4mm) Outside diameter, and 1/16 inch(2mm) Inside diameter. You can get 50 feet for only $30 US, which is a pretty spiffy deal. This is particularly relevant now, because we are having a pneumatic contest running now, so some people might need it. Also, I'm kind of wondering if we could maybe add a section under the index for alternative stores to Bricklink, and places to procure stuff like third party string, and pneumatic tubing, and stuff like SBrick, LifeLites, etc. -
[TC10] AT-AT
Jeroen Ottens posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi, Here is my progress so far on my attempted entry for the pneumatic challenge: I am trying to build an AT-AT walker, but is proving to be very, very challenging ... The mess of tubes inside the structure are part of the pneumatic sequencer that control the legs. For each leg four phases are defined: 1) Whole leg backwards 2) Bend knee to lift lower leg 3) Move leg forward & straighten knee 4) Move straight leg backwards The four legs are kept out of phase with each other to keep at east two legs straight at all times (either forward or backwards). In fact the sequence is not ideal, since 2 out of the 4 phases have a leg in the air (2+3), while idealy only one phase should have a leg in the air because then there are always 3 legs supporting the weight. What definitely not helps is the hopelessly high center of gravity combined with a ridiculous small base for the feet. With a manual pump I can make the whole assembly walk to some degree (well, walk, let's call it stumbling forward), but after a few steps it usually topples over sideways. When I add the batterybox and a small pump it doesn't even move the legs when I lift the model in the air. Apparently one small pump does not build up enough pressure... So, decision time... Option 1) Continue with the model (I do have some cool ideas for the head still including a simple return to center mechanism for rotating the head ). Solve the pressure issue with either more small pumps or by going manual (saves weight as well) Option 2) Abandon project and go for a six-legged walker (AT-TE) which is much less of a challenge, but has therefor also a much higher chance of actually working in the end. What would be your advice? Jeroen -
My idea for this contest is a pneumatic carousel. I never work with pneumatic before and I was not sure if it would even work. After going though so many prototype I finally have something to post. Here is my progress so far. Pneumatic is a lot more challenging than I thought.
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Here is my entry into the contest a tracked dumper with crane. Based off a Morooka/Terramac style crawler carrier platform. Planned Features - Pneumatic Dump Bed - Pneumatic Crane - Detailed Track System - Detailed Cab/Engine Compartment - Pneumatic Pump driven by M-Motor Build Progress Here are some photos of the undercarriage: The dump platform is based off the MB Arocs, but will be further modded to fit this build. Here is a mock up of the crane, based off MB Arocs/effermanns modded design. This will be changed almost completely since it is too large. The crane and dump section need to be redone since they copy an already built design. I just wanted to see how scale and function would work on the tracks. The track design took me a while to figure out since this is my first creation in Technic. I want it to be somewhat modular to help with installing Pneumatics. More to come... -
I am getting close to the end of this long term build and it's time to share some pictures and a bit of the story. Even before I had finished putting together 10231, I decided I wanted a Crawler to go with it. Being a Technic fan it had to at least drive around and lift the launch platform and shuttle. Those two basic goals spawned a project that has lasted a little over 2 years so far. Some ideas have stuck around since their inception, others were a bit optimistic (like building a peristaltic pump and hoping I could find a way to control the pneumatics hydraulically). February this year marked the 50th anniversary of when the two crawlers went into service, so recently there has been extra motivation to finish. The base equipment; - 16x M-motors (drive) - 4x L-motors (pneumatic jacking and leveling) - 4x IR Receivers (V1 as the V2s do not like driving multiple m-motors on a single channel) - 4x NXT servo motors (steering) - 4x RCX rotation sensors (measuring jacking level between truck and chassis) - 2x NXT bricks (one master and one slave. The master communicates with the Android Tablet and coordinates itself with the slave. Programmed in LeJOS) - 1x PF IR-Link sensor (link between master NXT and all PF motors) - 2x PF Battery boxes (with thermal overload removed) - 1x Android Tablet Future add-ons - Accelerometer (automatically detect the crawler is on a gradient and adjust the leveling to suit) Bricksafe folder is here: http://www.bricksafe.com/pages/OzShan/Crawler Firstly, a couple of my favorite reference pictures; The build itself started with the trucks, thinking that the pneumatics and LAs would dictate the scale. First proof of concept - build a coupling to give height, pitch, roll and yaw to the truck. The pneumatics need to be on their own gimbals too. The reinforced 2x2 rounds slide and rotate in the 4x4 macaroni's. It is on the limit of what will hold together without glue, but it does hold. The two 1x2 technic bricks at the base of the 2x2 column are helped a little by a string (not pictured) which runs up through the 2x2 rounds with the axle. Initial prototype of the drivetrain. I would have liked a higher ratio but there was just no room at this scale. When the gearbox was married with the truck chassis I had to juggle positions, so you will see in later pics the crown gears are facing in not out Best laid plans.... Marry studded and studless they said. It will be easy they said... Showing what will eventually be the steering between chassis and truck. The guide tube and pneumatic cylinders are all on gimbals with the pneumatics coupled together. The average height is preserved during any tilting. With prototypes sorted, it's time to bricklink some parts and quieten down the colour scheme! (thank you 42030 for providing 5L thin liftarms with axle hole in LBG color) You can see the relationship between "guide tube" and cylinders here. The pneumatic system was overhauled too many times to remember but this is what it arrived at. It is all controlled by the direction of the motor. Running forwards drives the pump. When running backwards, the lobes operate the pneumatic valves in series, letting small amounts of air escape each rotation. This lowers the chassis in a slow and controlled manner. The motor can be turned on or off and run in either direction at any time due to the valve timing. Early attempts with PF Servo and NXT servo just couldn't park the valve reliably and after a few operations I would hear a slow leak. I have been trying to keep up with the LDD but it's hard to stay motivated when I know I'm just going to have to suck it up and move over to LDraw if I want to include all the motors, pneumatics and LAs Works so far; (I'll make the files available if anybody would like them). I found LDD essential in the early days to plan ahead and simply find parts, but later on the build overtook it. Original 'box' pump. 1x PF XL motor, 4x 6L pumps running at 90 deg to each other. Very smooth but bulky. Flatter attempt in the same vein. The truck itself. The final design for the height control modules. I hope you enjoy the build so far. More pictures to come of chassis, steering, leveling and interior details. I'll leave it to others to decide what 'theme' it belongs to . -
The idea was very simple, to make some real juice with Lego 41035 Friends Heartlake Juice Bar birthday present for my granddaughter Laura (will be three on this Valentine day ), so I added some more Lego parts, including 12V pneumatic pump machine, and two (non-Lego) bottles as storage canisters for apple juice and apricot ice tee. Hope this will be great fun at her birthday party. Bottles can be easily refilled from the back if children will be thirsty. Some Juice Bar photos (with hi-resolution links, where appropriate): (http://www.bricksafe...ar/DSC06244.JPG) (http://www.bricksafe...ar/DSC06249.JPG) (http://www.bricksafe...ar/DSC06273.JPG) And also a short video:
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This is my first pneumatic MOC, and with no PF. It is based on GS-18.05 grader. I tried experimental placing of the cylinders to keep its look realistic. Features & Functions: Turnable control (moving down/up/left/right/incline) Blade control (moving aside/down/up/turning around) Dozer blade lifting/lowering Ripper lifting/lowering Frame turning Front wheels turning Front wheels incline Video: Some more pictures: Building Instruction: -
Here is my work in progress entry for [TC7]. Normal Mode: Bandit Mode: Story: The bandits were looking to develop a new vehicle utilizing a new engine prototype that allowed for huge amounts of torque and speed. This new vehicle, named Firehawk, would be lightweight and fast built for those missions that required the bandits to get in and out of a situation quickly. This new photon rotary engine pushes the limits on speed allowing the Firehawk to outrun pretty much everything of the known enforcers line of vehicles. Unfortunately, to keep the weight down, the Firehawk is not loaded down with big weapons, but just some basic weapons to get the job done. Naturally, a sports car body would be the normal mode powered by a conventional V12 piston engine, with the ability to transform into a supersonic plane powered by the photon rotary engine. Normal mode features: - Fully Independent Suspension. - Working Front Steering Using Steering Wheel. - Working V12 Powering Rear Wheels, with differential. - Special Gearbox/Transmission That Couples Two Separate Engines To Rear Wheels. - 3 Forward Gears + Reverse For The V12 - 2 High Speed Forward Gears For The Photon Rotary Engine (Car Mode When Transformed). - Working Headlights - Working Doors Bandit Mode (Still working on this) - Transform To Plane - Doors Turn Into Main Wings (Manual) - Rear Air Intake Into Rear Wings (Manual) - Photon Rotary Engine Extends, Lights Rotate With Wheels (Pneumatic Switch On Dash) - 2 Front Large Caliber Guns (Hidden Behind Headlights That Manually Fold Down) - 2 Rear Mini Missile Launchers (Launch Via Pneumatic Switch On Dash) Other: - Pneumatics powered by manual pump and air tank. - Front Headlights Powered By 9v Battery Box. - Photon Rotary Engine Light Powered By 9v Battery Box. I'm still tweaking a few things on this model yet, but wanted to share to gather any additional insights to potentially make it better prior to the contest deadline. Once I get the tweaks complete, I will shoot and post a video. -
Hi, I'm starting this tread to gather different pressure switch and compressor designs. Please add your designs to the thread, or link to them. I've been tinkering with a pressure switch design for a couple of days (only have time for a few hours a day...) and have come up with a compact functioning design for relatively high pressure applications (will be presented soon). I know there are many other designs out there, and would very much like to see others designs to get ideas to improve my design, or maybe finding a design that is better suited. I also faced some problems with half stud alignment of the old small pumps to make a efficient compressor, so I would very much appreciate if you could show your designs here. I hope this topic can be a resource for the community on pneumatic ideas, especially pressure switches and compressors. -ED-
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Hi all, Below is my first build of a flow control device to operate a bank of single acting cylinders. It's built on top of Sariel's dual output worm drive gearbox. In this application when the motor runs forward, air is delivered through the near set of valves and black loop to the cylinders on the right. Running in reverse drives the other pair of valves to drain air through the grey loop. Each pair of valves are offset 180deg so they can never be open at the same time. This way it doesn't matter when you start, stop or change direction nothing can get stuck open. The shaft turns counter clockwise and the valves are on a spring return. I've seen mechanisms that drive double acting cylinders but not single acting. Any suggestions for other examples I might be able to learn from? (Ideally it would be a lot smaller but this was as compact as I could make it). Many thanks, OzShan.
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After I designed an 8x4 chassis, I wanted to try something new when it came to building something to put on it. I wanted to make something with a ton of functions, and I wanted it not to have Power Functions! Seeing all the functions others have previously included in various Tow Trucks (notably Sariel, Dikkie Klijn and Grazi), and the different ways of getting those functions to work, I decided that Tow Truck = lots of interesting functions = a nice challenge! The lack of anything electric here, really reminded me of how Technic Lego used to be when I was young, with manual cranks and pumps and stuff! I really like it this way! Like all my previous MOCs, it is absolutely not based on any particular real life vehicle, but it is in the style of a European type, heavy Recovery Truck. I'm pretty sure some of the particular functions I've implemented doesn't even exist in that iteration in any real life vehicle Anyways, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking, however I will interrupt at occasions to point things out along the way For some "behind the scenes" pictures and some more technical information regarding the functions, please check out my "blog" Will have to wait till tomorrow to make a video, as it is now too dark to make anything good As you can probably see, I borrowed some details from the 8258 cab, and then redesigned it, adding a taller roof, openable doors, a different grille, some slopes for better lines, and a front mounted winch. The cab tilts forward to reveal a V8 engine, driven from the two rear wheels, through a central differential (placed just forward of axle 3) You can also see the front stabilizers. These should be deployed first, as pumping the manual pumps without them, can make even the strongest sailor or truck driver seasick The front winch can be used to recover cars/vehicles that are just slightly stuck on the side of the road. The stabilizers provide.. stability It is driven by turning the grey 12z bevel gear in the front The rear features a similar winch, for the same purpose. It can also be used to tow vehicles, or pull them up onto the towing fork when it is deployed. Here the rear stabilizers also perform the same function as the ones in the front. Between them, the front and rear stabilizers easily lifts the (quite heavy) truck off the ground Yeah, kinda looks like it's going to snap down the middle.. the curse of studless building But it actually is fairly solidly built! The independent suspension works pretty well (then again the truck is quite heavy) The front two axles feature double wishbone suspension, and the rear axles are live (probably not true to life, but good in Lego) The doors open (JUST LIKE IN A REAL LIFE TRUCK!!) And now for the fun stuff The towing fork swivels/yaws, and is lifted and tilted using pneumatics. If you hav crashed another European style truck, and don't want a crane boom through your windshield, it can be extended by 5-6 studs using an old style pneumatic cylinder. It retracts with the help of rubber bands. (Will show better in video later on) As for the crane, if you need to recover someone directly behind you, you can just extend the outriggers and raise it up And the extend the boom Boom extention is not via pneumatics, but rather via a crank mounted on the right hand side of the chassis, just behind the second axle. A system of gears and crossaxles work their way up through the turntable and to the end of the main boom, where there is a worm drive. Did I say turntable? But of course, with the flick of a couple of (pneumatic) switches, you can recover trucks that fell off the side of the road and into a gorge! The slewing of the crane is done with pneumatics, similar to the system on the 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig from the early nineties. Unfortunately this limits the work area to slightly less than 180 degrees to the rear of the truck The outriggers are deployed with.. you guessed it: pneu-matics! And the under belly shot I think this covers it all Two air pumps, one air tank, 8 square bottomed cylinders, 9 rounded bottom cylinders, one long old style cylinder (18 pneumatic cylinders in total), 9 switches, too many T-pieces to count and several meters of pneumatic tubing later, I had to finish it, as I need pieces for the [TRIPLE] challenge! I also made a compressor unit, that will fit in the cabin, if I'm feeling lazy. But the overall goal was to make something PF-less, and I am very happy with the result! Video: -
Hello again! I made a small moc some time ago, but I didn't had time to publish it (due the buzy weeks at school). It's al little pneumatic creation (my first fully pneumatic), with 4 functions: A 3-section boom and a little backfill blade. Naturally it works with 4 valves. For the air pressure, I used 1 external big, manual pneumatic pump, because I didn't want that the model included batteries or other electric parts. Off course you can make an external electric pump. It was a challenge to hide all the tubes in a small space. And to end, a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSIAocu7w2g Please tell me what you think and how I can improve it! If there should be enough interest in instructions, I can make them. Greets, Fresko -
LegoIDEASforYou posted two YouTube videos for the Lego Pneumatic fans out there: -- "Building Guide 1: Lego Front Wheel Drive With Pneumatic Steering": "This is a simple design for a front wheel drive axle with steering (the pneumatic steering is optional, it can be easily changed into normal steering). It is mainly designed for lego- trucks or trial wehicles. Features: tough, high-angle steering. Parts: 4 x TECHNIC ANG. BEAM 4X2 90 DEG - Black 4 x T-BEAM 3X3 W/HOLE Ø4.8 - Dark Stone Grey 8 x TECHNIC LEVER 3M - Black 1 x TECHNIC 5M HALF BEAM - Black 2 x TECHNIC 5M HALF BEAM - Medium Stone Grey 1 x TECHNIC 7M HALF BEAM - Black 4 x TRIANGLE - Black 2 x 1/2 BUSH - Medium Stone Grey 3 x 2M CROSS AXLE W. GROOVE - Black 10 x CONNECTOR PEG W. FRICTION - Black 12 x CROSS AXLE 3M - Medium Stone Grey 6 x BUSH FOR CROSS AXLE - Medium Stone Grey 2 x CONNECTOR PEG W. FRICTION 3M - Black 6 x CONNECTOR PEG W. FRICTION 3M - Bright Blue 1 x CROSS AXLE, EXTENSION, 2M - Medium Stone Grey 3 x CROSS AXLE 5M - Medium Stone Grey 4 x CROSS BLOCK 90° - Black 4 x ANGLE ELEMENT, 0 DEGREES [1] - Black 1 x BEAM 1X2 W/CROSS AND HOLE - Black 2 x CROSS AXLE 6M - Black 3 x DOUBLE CROSS BLOCK - Medium Stone Grey 1 x CROSS AXLE 5,5 WITH STOP 1M. - Black 1 x CROSS AXLE 9M - Medium Stone Grey 2 x UNIVERSAL JOINT - Medium Stone Grey 1 x TECHNIC CROSS BLOCK/FORK 2X2 - Black 1 x BEAM FRAME 5X7 Ø 4.85 - Medium Stone Grey 3 x CONICAL WHEEL Z12 - Medium Stone Grey 1 x DOUBLE CONICAL WHEEL Z20 1M - Black 1 x DIFFERENTIALE 3M Z 28 - Dark Stone Grey The portal axle mod for this one will come soon so stay tuned! You can use it as you wish but don't forget to sign where it came from when you make a video or picture of it. The lego digital designer save file can be downloaded from here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B53TLXnACl-BSnN0eDdERTFGbTA If you have any questions or you just want help, please write." * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- "Building Guide 2: Simple Rear Axle with Differential": "This is a simple design for a rear wheel drive axle. It is mainly designed for lego- trucks or cars. Features: tough, tolerate high pressure from the top. Parts: 4 x TECHNIC 3M BEAM - Black 4 x TECHNIC 7M BEAM - Black 4 x TECHNIC ANG. BEAM 4X2 90 DEG - Black 1 x TECHNIC 11M BEAM - Black 4 x TECHNIC ANG. BEAM 3X5 90 DEG. - Black 8 x TECHNIC LEVER 3M - Black 1 x TECHNIC 7M HALF BEAM - Black 6 x 1 1/2 M CONNECTING BUSH - Dark Stone Grey 2 x CONNECTOR PEG W. FRICTION - Black 12 x CROSS AXLE 3M - Medium Stone Grey 2 x BUSH FOR CROSS AXLE - Medium Stone Grey 10 x CROSS AXLE 4M - Black 12 x CONNECTOR PEG W. FRICTION 3M - Bright Blue 3 x CROSS AXLE, EXTENSION, 2M - Medium Stone Grey 2 x CROSSAXLE 3M WITH KNOB - Dark Stone Grey 2 x CROSS BLOCK 90° - Medium Stone Grey 2 x ANGLE ELEMENT, 0 DEGREES [1] - Black 2 x CROSS AXLE 7M - Medium Stone Grey 3 x DOUBLE CROSS BLOCK - Medium Stone Grey 1 x UNIVERSAL JOINT - Medium Stone Grey 2 x TECHNIC CROSS BLOCK/FORK 2X2 - Medium Stone Grey 2 x CROSS BLOCK 3X2 - Medium Stone Grey 2 x SHOCK ABSORBER - Bright Yellow,Black 1 x BEAM FRAME 5X7 O 4.85 - Medium Stone Grey 3 x CONICAL WHEEL Z12 - Medium Stone Grey 1 x DOUBLE CONICAL WHEEL Z20 1M - Black 1 x DIFFERENTIALE 3M Z 28 - Dark Stone Grey The brake mod for this one will come soon so stay tuned! You can use it as you wish but don't forget to sign where it came from when you make a video or picture of it. The lego digital designer save file can be downloaded from here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B53TLXnACl-BeXd0VjlUODNoOEE If you have any questions or you just want help, please write." -
Here's a creation that satisfies BOTH the fans of Lego Pneumatics AND Power Functions! fr3dpivo posted a of his "Lego Technic 9398 4x4 Crawler mod with height adjustable suspension, stabilizer bar, compressor and modified body. Hope you get ideas for your mod :-). Compressor design by DOTTECHNIC" [second below].
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Hi folks. I'm a new member to please forgive me if I'm in the wrong place... Just wondering if anyone has any advice on pressure testing the lego pneumatic systems. I'm building up some old models, I know I need to replace bits, but want to know which bits without going through hours of swapping them around. Also, what's the best advice for old pneumatic rams that are a bit 'lumpy', is there a safe way of lubricating internal seals? I've thought of a hyperdermic and thin motor oil, but don't want to use anything that's going to damage the plastic or o-rings. Any help gratefully received.
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Well I started work on another truck. It all started when I was trying to build a car, and wondered why no one puts gearboxes in truck MOCs. So, I decided to make a manual truck with a 2 speed gearbox. I also wanted a pneumatic crane on the back, but wanted all the wires/functions to be routed to the middle of the truck. Something like this Here's the chassis. Its quite sturdy and can take some abuse. I added a bed and the Unimog crane as a test. Current progress is looking much messier as I have not had any time to order new parts. The front axle has been moved forward one stud and the truck now has Ackermann steering (based off this http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/320971) Excuse the messy colors and such, but I was able to wire all the pneumatics and turntable rotation. I plan to have 3 pneumatic functions: 2 cylinders for the crane and outriggers. I wanted the sides to be studded and smooth as I liked the tile look. Its quite cramped in the middle but everything works out. Right now, I've hit a road block for the last several weeks. i simply don't know how to design a proper cab or crane for that matter. As of now I've reverse engineered Efferman's knuckleboom crane(http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=477568) in order to gain some inspiration. As always any feedback or ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks Rishab -
All of a sudden while at work, this idea came to me and I got so interested. Objectives: Bus as 42008 C Model Good looking as much as I can include bus details as much as I can pneumatic door and baggage driven by pump compressor motorized drive as a 3rd function (what else a bus has to offer?) manual steering easily removable battery Parts: approximately 930 parts out of 1276 Build time: around 3 weeks Limitations C Model, hence no parts outside 42008 allowed 42008 presents the folloing challenges: not enough lift arms to build a floor in the passenger area managing the available quantities of Green and Red beams to build the bus body and make a good choice where green and where red goes. weak pneumatics I'm new and this is my 1st serious try, I only built 42008 before this. In general I'm satisfied by the end product. Next are things I think could be better: hiding the pneumatic hoses, got lazy at that. sliding baggage door, (couldn't figure out how to do that) more sturdy/smooth steering two doors rather than one using the white gear I may try to enhance this later (as a free MOC), but for now I will go to build some car sets to learn more about vehicle functions. I will start with 42029. Thank you for having a look. Remaining parts (around 340)
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Well here's my entry for the contest. I wanted to play a little with the new pneumatics so: A-Model: pneumatic forklift. It features: - Fork lifting of course - Fork tilt - Hog steering and functional steering wheel in the cabin - 4 piston boxer engine driven by the front wheels with differential - Pendular rear suspension - Forks width adjustable (manual function) Couple of images: I don't like cutting original Lego rope, so that's what you see in front of the front wheels. I used about 70-80cm of the 1 meter rope. The 8T gear in front of the seat was something I'd rather not do, but the 12T bevel gear for the drivetrain is right below it. The hog steering axle going right through the middle of the chair is also something I'd rather not have, but in the given space I had 2 choices: place the chair a whole stud forward and have it be too close to the steering wheel or move it a full stud back and have an axle sitting right in the middle of the chair. I decided on a compromise with the chair slightly angled. I used this part in the top of the chair so it wouldn't touch the hog axle, but still made both sides of the chair connected. Fitting the pneumatics with the drive axle and the steering above the drive axle meant I didn't have much room to play with, but it fits perfectly and to protect the pneumatics from the drive axle I added a 2L pin connector and 1L liftarm to the drive axle. Pretty straight forward manual function. I wanted to make the forks foldable too if I couldn't fit in the 10,000 stud limit, but considering the model is 34x14x17.5 (that .5 doesn't really show properly in the images, but the forklift mechanism is about 1/2 stud of the ground) I didn't bother with folding forks. So then the time came to make a B-model. Time to duplicate the main model so I knew for certain I had all the parts: The parts in front of the left one are the things I didn't install when I rebuild it, because I either forgot (diff) or bricklink came later (pneumatics). B-model: Bucket truck I really don't like making B-models, but I think this turned out ok. Of course there are things I'd like to do different, but that's the challenge of a B-model. It features: - Bucket lift (why do I even list this ) - 4 Outriggers - Hog steering - 2 cylinder boxer engine - 170 degree turning crane (manual function, radius only limited by hose length of pneumatics) A couple of more images Outriggers are handled by the small pump, I wanted to use both, but the lengths of hoses I had left were a limiting factor. Doesn't really matter, using the 16L axles to power the rear and front outriggers was already planned and I tried the system with 2 small pumps and they weren't able to really lift the model either, not more than 1 pump managed. One pump manages to get the wheels to have slightly less friction. Speaking of friction. For the outriggers I had to switch some pins on the A-model for LBG 2L frictionless pins to make it easy for the outriggers on the B-model. This change isn't shown in the photos of the A-Model, but can be seen in the images of these 2 models together (6 are easily visible on the front wheels of the forklift) and in the video. No parts were added. For every LBG pin added, one black pin was removed from the table. I find no fun or challenge in cheating the rules of the contest. I also didn't want to use more pins than really needed, where 2 were enough to fix a liftarm, that's what I used on the A-model. I already expected that re-using the A-model's hoses would be a problem, but it worked out ok (even for the turning radius of the crane). Ok, I cheated Lego's current hose code a little (2x black on 1 cylinder is old hose code), but the grey hoses were too short or far too long (which I used on the handpump). Speaking of the handpump, thanks 2LegoOrNot2Lego for your handpumps on BL, both used here Not intended, but this model fits in the same box as the A-model: 35 studs long, 13 studs wide and 17 studs high. A and B model and the parts remaining: Of course I'd like to have made a roof for this B-model, but I didn't really see how anymore with the parts I had left. I then decided to make an open truck like the old american fire trucks. Not that this is really intended as a fire (bucket) truck, but I can't deny that with the white and red it could be used as such (maybe reverse the colours). Here's the video of the models. I combined both into one video: Thank you for your time reading this topic and in closing this image:
