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Found 2 results

  1. Hello! I’m not particularly proud of this Technic horror I’ve created, but I’d like to share it with you rather than keep it to myself, possibly forever. Shortly after I learned about (and supported) SBrick and MiniZip in KickStarter, I started dreaming of building powerful, compact MOCs using a new combo: PP3 NiMh battery + MiniZip + SBrick + 5292 RC Buggy Motor. This is my first attempt at it, now that Android SBrick app (1.3+) is finally usable Functions Drive: 2x 5292 RC Buggy Motor, each connected to a separate SBrick, each powered by a separate PP3 NiMh 250 mAh battery using MiniZip. Steering: PF Servo. Front suspension: independent, soft, long travel, with “fake” positive caster Rear suspension: solid axle, dragged (didn’t figure out how to do four-link) 4x Lego LED Still haven’t applied myself to learning proper bodywork, so designing my own was out of the question. I went for an easy, fairly plain one. No openable doors, bonnet or anything. I worked with these two photos and scaled for 62.4mm tires. Full size (> 1024px): 1, 2. Photos were made really quick, during a baby siesta (indoor) and in short incursions (outdoors) no more than 20 meters from home. For now, I can only dream of having more time and freedom for this :D v0.99 without stickers: v1.0 with stickers based on video: Old school navigator refused to deal with GPS and computers, wanted just a compass (70001pb02) and a map with an X that marks the spot. Smart dude, run off with the loot. Very short of creativity and sleep, the only alternative I could think of to get rid of the demonic Monster logo and brand was a rather lame one: Music Energy. Example diff: I asked friends to vote in G+ and 3 out of 4 prefer Music, but the one who prefers Monster is my the only one into LEGO. I’m divided, will probably print them and try them on, but still not sure which ones to use for filming. I started with 1 battery, 1 SBrick, 2 motors. It seemed to run well. Adding an extra battery and Sbrick seems to make it run even stronger / faster, although SBrick developer Zsolt Majoros said it shouldn’t matter. The real reason I added the extra SBrick is that “2 ports 1 function” only works in Android app when those 2 ports are on separate SBricks. You may ask why use PP3 batteries instead of the acclaimed LiPo batteries… mainly because they are expensive, and a bit of a lottery with their thermal protection. MiniZip + PP3 NiMh 250 mAh wasn’t a whole lot cheaper, but the combo is certainly more compact, half the weight and doesn’t have any thermal protection. SBricks can draw as much current as the motors want, with just a small risk of overheating and possibly catching on fire… ah well, what could possibly go wrong? I haven’t actually managed to make the batteries warm up, they get warmer when charging. One likely reason for not achieving hotness is short life, according to this battery life calculator, they’d last 3.5 minutes at 3 A, 10 minutes at 1 A, 20 minutes at 500 mA. Can someone make a better-informed / estimation of a more realistic battery life? But there are more and worse problems, for which I sure can do with your advice! Caster angle is fake, isn’t? I mean, I just shifted the upper A arms a half stud backwards, but both A arms still move vertically. I think this is why big bumps will throw the truck’s front up rather than only the front wheel/s going up. When hitting a big bump with a front wheel, the wheel will thrust up and with it the whole car will roll to the opposite side. This results in a raised rear wheel taking all torque to just spin in the air, so the car stops until the raised wheel hits the ground again. Shifting the upper A arms a half stud backwards messed with the steering geometry, so now there’s a not-so-slight bump steering. I think this, combined with the twisting effect on the solid axle, is what’s causing the truck to steer to the left when accelerating. Too bad. Motors are hard coupled on their fast output and then geared down 20:12 twice, not including the 20-tooth to differential connection. Maybe I could / should gear down 20:12 only once, haven’t had a chance to try yet. I suppose integrating the motors in the rear axle and connecting wheels directly to them would help with the last couple of problems, but couldn’t figure out how to fit that in this body just yet. I’m also concerned that if one battery drains faster, the motor (no longer) powered by it will get damaged. With each rear wheel directly on one motor, that would result in the truck going in circles, but motors wouldn’t get damaged. How bad is this? Steering with SBrick (v1.3) as a significant latency, in the time it takes from the moment I slide my finger to a side (much or little) to the moment when the PF Servo starts moving, the truck is already going the wrong way. It’s really hard to drive straight. rm8, what’s your experience regarding this latency with your Double Trouble? If anyone has not seen rm8’s Double Trouble, I’ll put it as “my dream, properly done” Thank you for reading. If you were looking for a video... EDIT(25.05.2015): slightly better pics. EDIT(26.09.2015): I’m now a little more proud of my creation, at least the suspension seems right to me: it’s long travel and soft enough to reacts promptly to bumps, but the car doesn’t sink too much on it. I dare say it works better than most others, probably because it’s much harder to this the a bigger scale most others have been working with. The car is still not really fast, so I didn’t bother measuring its speed. I did try putting less reduction in the drivetrain, but that only resulted in lower speed due to lower torque, so I reverted back to my original setup. It’s still fast enough to be impossible to drive well, specially with the terrible latency in the SBrick. Latency is not a problem with the port tester, so it doesn’t look like a hardware limitation. Anyway, it’s fast enough to be fun. Thanks to Sir Wolf’s help and support, we finally have a somewhat decent video. Enjoy! :) And we learned many things the hard way: by failing. Fake caster angle is not good, you need real caster for off-road racing. I took the idea from someone’s supercar project here (sorry, couldn’t find it again) to displace the upper suspension arm by ½ stud backwards from the lower arm (see belly shot above). That gives you quite a bit of caster angle on the wheel (or snowmobile skies) but it does not help reacting promptly to the most serious bumps. It also screws the geometry in that the gear rack should ideally be ¼ stud backwards, but it’s either 0, ½ or 1. This results in notorious bump steering: front wheels are toes out when suspension is fully extended, and toes in when fully compressed. When this adds to the torsion exerted by the powerful motors on the live axle (see in the video how left front wheel jumps up when car starts). All in all: bad Idea. Portal hubs from 8070 are not good for off-road racing, I should have used the ones from the snowmobile 42021 (2015). They are also too expensive to go on dirt with them, so I didn’t. Differential slows down or even stops the car when one rear wheel take off. I knew this was a problem with crawlers, but never imagined how bad it’d be on a trophy truck. Damn it, I’ll never do this again. Just use one motor per wheel, and accept that if one motor runs out of battery or losses signal, you might take a sharp turn or find yourself driving in circles for a little, depending how the front wheels cope with the imbalance. MiniZip are great to get “buggy-motor-grade” power in a smaller size than LiPo batteries. PPA 9V batteries can fit a width of 3 studs, so a 5x11 panel makes for a perfect home. However, MiniZip’s lack of power switch in makes it a complete hassle to replace batteries. Should keep them very easily accessible.
  2. IFS= Independent Front Suspension Hello all Today I'm proud to present my new MOC, the King of the Hammers IFS Buggy. This all started almost a year ago, when I wanted to build this, but changed my mind because of trouble with the rear suspension. So I made this in under a week, one reason for the speed of this build was that I used a pre-made rear suspension. It is a floating axle with four links designed by @Sariel, it works great on this model and gives it lots of travel. The reason I used this was because when I decided to build this, I thought that was what was used on the real ones. After closer inspection, I remembered this is just a live axle, with links going to a moving rod on the back. For example, this. So the suspension isn't realistic, but I think it works perfect on this model. For power, it uses a Minizip cable and 9V battery to power an SBrick, which controls 1 XL-motor geared 1.667:1 for rear wheel drive and a Servo motor for steering. LDD: http://bricksafe.com/files/Offroadcreations/king-of-the-hammers-ifs-buggy/KOH IFS Buggy.lxf Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8996/offroadcreations/king-of-the-hammers-ifs-buggy/#comments Loads more pics:http://bricksafe.com/pages/Offroadcreations/king-of-the-hammers-ifs-buggy Here are some pics. Here it is with a 42000- inspired color scheme, if that's more your style. And size compared to 42037: Tell me what you think, and have a great day!