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Found 25 results

  1. Hi! I recently added the lightkit from Brikxmax to my Ninjago City (70620) and I wanted to share the result. It was extremely fiddly (having big hands does not help in the slightest) and took around a whole day with a lot of cursing and cussing. Parts fell off in all directions. The hardest part was holding the top two levels in one hand whilst trying to attach the light cables into the expansion port (everything could have come tumbling down but fortunately it didn't). The result however became something I am really proud of. I find myself just looking at it for periods of time and imagining out stories for each of the mini figures. I also have the Ninjago City docks and the corresponding light kit but I have not had the time to put it in yet. Hopefully soon! Hope you like it! Lego Ninjago City by a18r28k, on Flickr P.S. it is my first post real post here so please be gentle
  2. Looking for advice on installing a light kit - curious if you would recommend installing/integrating the light kit into the Lego model as the model was being assembled, or would you complete the model and then install the light kit by removing/disassembling the model as needed? The light kit I purchased is supposedly designed for this model - I attached an image to show what I'm going to build. It seems the light kit manufacturer suggest to complete the model first and add the lights secondarily. Although I'm inclined to integrate the lighting while assembling the model. Ideas?
  3. Hello! Here are the photos of my train/city display shown at Paredes de Coura FanWeekend 2019. Hat Village Train Station V2 Album by José Proença, on Flickr Of notice: A different take on track ballast. Example here I'm using a custom catenary non-lego "cable" with a simple tensioning system. Check here Custom lighting system with no electrical cables at sight. Like in here. Tried to simulate tube lights (reduced spotlight effect) with one LED. See with lights on and with lights off Exterior elevator/lift with moving cabin, controlled by a hand rotated tire on the top. See elevator here. Illuminated train signal lights with no cut/drilled parts and two wires only to control lighting. These will be upgraded to a new design soon! Check signal light here. It measures 4x16 baseplates and it is transported in 4x4 stacked units. Sadly, only allows 8-wide trains max (including greblies, bars, etc). Hope you enjoy!
  4. ER0L

    MOCs: 100% Lego Lighting

    Hi all, lighting will probably be an important feature of our future city. Due to the lack of working street lights it was crucial to find a solution here first. Now this is what I've come up with - a street light made of 100% Lego, using Power Functions LEDs. Detail: The lamp post can be integrated very well into our SNOT pavement (see this post) so that the power supply is invisible. This is what it looks like when used: The contrast between a 9 Volt lighting within buildings and PF LEDs on the streets works quite nicely, I think. It's only a first step, we'll see how this will turn out. C&C welcome as usual, thanks for looking.
  5. Interested in lighting up MOCs and sets with tiny LEDs, but not really interested in spending time soldering.. So I would be looking for pre-made starter kits/set kits and ideally with nice expand-ability. I investigated a bit and found vendors called "Brickstuff" and "light my bricks", but those are both US or Australian based. Are there any sellers for Germany/Europe? Is there some sort of a standard/market leader emerging? Also what are folks using for power? The USB connector method per LED and then a hidden USB powered hub/power supply or battery based? Seems battery based would be quite a waste if we are talking lighting up 5+ different MOCs/sets but then 1x USB connector per light is also nuts it seems. Thanks for any hints!
  6. I saw this on The Brick Fan daily email, about a Kickstarter project looking for funding. It is called 'iBrix' and it's a cool idea to use wireless power to light individual bricks. You put a power pad underneath your base plate and the power is transmitted wirelessly to the individual light bricks. Take a look at the link for how it looks and works. I would definitely be interested in this if it gets developed.
  7. Hello everyone! As this is my first real topic in this forum after a few years of reading silently, I will say the following about myself: I'm from Germany, just finished the Abitur and I love cars as well as Lego (Technic), especially Porsche, and I will probably start studying mechanical engineering this year. Sooo, this project was a pretty huge thing for me in the last few months. As a huge fan of their cars, when the Lego Porsche was announced I knew I needed it, and got it early this year. When it stood in front of me on the table, finished, I already thought about how awesome it would be to mod the sh*t out of this monster. I started with technical modifications on the gearbox, adding working door knobs, gearing the steering wheel up to have a rotation close to 900°, filling some holes in the body and including Didumos' Ackermann steering mod. After various tries, I kind of rebuilt the chassis for rc use. While the servo was pretty easy to throw in (while it was tight and a perfect fit), the whole gearbox flew out for 4 M-Motors. While at first I had one technic battery box laying on top of the rear suspension cover, I soon changed this solution to having two train bbs in the engine bay. The gear driving the differential which comes from the motors required the fake engine to be moved down as far as it goes, but this gave me the possibility to keep it inside. Next thing to do was the lighting, which I did by using the cables of broken PF motors to connect 10 white 9V LEDS from ebay. I then continued to see something new to be improved everyday and fix this one or that one, until I finally decided (about 2 months ago), that it is time to move on to the real stuff. So i bought RAL 6019 (the green one), RAL 5002 (blue) and RAL 9005 (black), 1200 ml each, and just started spray painting the parts. I did the panels and small parts laying on a metal sheet, rear side first, while I did the liftarms by putting them on a string with the middle hole so they spin when being sprayed. While the most turned out well after the first few rounds of painting, some got pretty ugly when drying, which I fixed by sanding the parts and spraying a thin layer over it. While the parts were still drying and between the paiting rounds I already did the interieur - removing the right seat, changing the seat colour to gray/black, removing the shifter knob, replacing the old dashboard, changing the steering wheel to a more GT3-style-thingy, adding a fore extinguisher and changing the orange cage to black. I also ordered the neon-yellowish headlight bricks, which looks hella awesome at night or even more in twilight. At this point, technical improvements had all been made, I solely focused on asthetics. When I was finished with the colouring, I had to decide how I would do the stickers. After I saw the extremely low prices for custom stickers on websites of printing companies (about 200€), I looked for alternatives. I saw a YT-video with a technique I didn't think of till then which worked surprisingly well. All the stickers on the car are made this way. Finally, a list of all the modifications: - Full RC, 4 M-Motors, 1 Servomotor, 2 Train BB's, 2 IR Receivers with nearly invisible placement that doesn't disturb the looks - steering wheel upgearing - several body fixes - head- and rear lights, neon headlight bricks - spray painted bricks and custom stickers - change of the mounting of the rear shocks so they are more stiff to carry the heavier weight of the engine bay - (still) working and repositioned flat 6 despite the rc mod - interieur, wheel and dashboard changes - new centerlock wheel nut bricks (no RS anymore :D) - carbon fiber covered exhaust pipes, that front thingy panels (no idea what the english word is ^^) and - diffusor - chassis changes to make rc mod possible While these were all my own mods, I also used two mods from other guys: - El Squattore's working door knob mod adapted to the large shocks - Didumos' Ackermann steering, also changed a bit because I was missing a few of the bricks. Man, I can't tell how many times I thought i just threw 200€ into the trash by f***ing up some of the bricks when painting them, but I think in the end it worked out more than just well. :) There's probably a video/car porn coming as soon as I find time and a nice location for it. Anyway, thanks for reading and let me know what you think of this thing!
  8. McWaffel

    Lego Railway Signaling

    Hey guys! After a few weeks of break I'm back and working on my test-setup for train signaling. As some of you know, I've built a small test track on my desk and wired up a lot of sensors and LEDs to program and develop a signaling system for trains. I'm finally at a point where I can drive trains over a layout that has block signaling fully working and completely automated too. Here's a video: When the train passes over the block sensor, a flag is set and it's only when the flag is removed (i.e. the train has fully passed over the signal and an additional time of 1 second has passed), that the signal switches to red and vice versa. The code only makes the block-section check it's sensors and flags get set and removed automatically meaning I have minimal code maintenance to do if I want to change anything. I have a lot more signals planned for the future including switch track signals, crossings and station signals. If you're interested, I can provide a PDF with all the signals I came up with. Let me know what you think. All feedback is appreciated.
  9. Hi Guys, I got a bit carried away with my latest lighting setup and thought I would share my progress. I started off just wanting front and rear white/red lights but... well video's speak louder than words.. I have an ESP8266 onboard programmed with the Arduino IDE. The motor is controlled with a RC brushed motor ESC and the LED's (6 in total) are all programmable so they only need 1 output pin for all 6. It is communicating by MQTT and at the moment I am using Home Assistant just as a test controller but the plan is to use it with 4DBrix's nControl software as the features become available. A benefit of using Home Assistant lets me control it from my phone or PC. It will work across the web as well but I don't really have the need to control my trains from outside the house. Not yet anyway... I'll get some video's about the build up when I can Mike
  10. Missing Brick

    Arvo Alien

    [/url] The HR Giger Alien figure design is by The Arvo Brothers - built from instructions in their fantastic 'Alien Project' book. Highly recommended for all Alien fans! Arvo Brothers Flickr Page The figure stands 0.5m tall. It's packed with great details and clever building techniques. There's a review of the book here I was so happy with my figure I decided to build a little Nostromo environment for it!
  11. Missing Brick

    Alien Hive

    Some scenes from James Cameron's Aliens featuring Blacktron's custom figs. I shot these a couple of months back but have only just been able to post here thanks to a trick that restores flickr functionality on old iPads using
  12. I've lit up the engine of my UCS Millennium Falcon: It's done using a cheap €2 set of 20 LEDs from a Euro store. I had to replace the 2x3 grey plates the trans-blue tile attach to with transparent parts (and as 2x3 clear plates cost a fortune, I built them out of 1x1s and 1x2s). After that, there was a bit of work to remove some parts that blocked the lights, and some internal parts to hold the wires in place. The battery box sits neatly under the top gun emplacement, where it's easily accessible to turn on/off or change batteries. For a fairly easy mod, I think the really adds something to the Falcon. James
  13. Hello, I am woking on plans for a Lego layout of the majority of the Magic Kingdom, in Walt Disney World Florida. I am planning on using the Philips Hue System for lighting so that I can have daytime/nighttime/morning/evening. I also am going to include LifeLites for the lighting of the street and in buildings. A few of the rides will be able to run as well, including the Walt Disney World Railroad which runs around the park. Lastly I am also going to include sounds into different areas of the park to add to the realism. Is there a program where I can make all these systems automated so that by the push of a button or two the entire layout comes to life?
  14. Missing Brick

    Aliens: Hadley's Hope Colony

    Scene from James Cameron's 1986 movie 'Aliens' The colony complex looks deserted.... but they still have power. PS. Please check out the Aliens article by Blacktron and I in the latest free issue of HispaBrick magazine:
  15. Missing Brick

    Aliens APC moc

    Scene from James Cameron's 1986 movie 'Aliens': The marines approach the colony complex in the APC. The atmospheric processor glowers in the distance
  16. I ended up building this small section of corridor for my Lego RP account on twitter, SalvageTeam Alpha-09, and it turned out better than I expected photo-wise... More photos on my Flickr Photostream Enjoy!
  17. Missing Brick

    Aliens: Medlab

    Scene from James Cameron's 1986 movie 'Aliens'. -------------------------------- Hicks: Oh, it likes you Burke. Looks like love at first sight to me. Bishop: Two are alive. The rest are dead. "Removed surgically before embryo implantation. Subject Marachuk J, died during procedure"... They killed him getting it off. ------------------------------- Thanks to Matthias for the custom Aliens minifigs:
  18. Hi all, I would just like to start this thread to see what the general feeling is with regards to LED lighting in city/town vehicles and streets. Basically what would like to see in a city rescue vehicle? Would you like flashing lights on the top of the police/fire/ambulance/rescue vehicle and headlight/tail lights that stay on and would you want the LEDs to be controlled from a remote or just switched on/off on the vehicle? Likewise with street lighting. What would you want from LED lamp posts? I'm opening this discussion after seeing this video and wondering how popular this would be and if it was commercially available would you buy it? Many thanks Happy Building Neil
  19. Lind Whisperer

    Explorations into Lighting - WICP*

    An occasionally updated thread, where I post pictures of various Space settings and locations. With lots of lighting. Lots. Oh, and the guy in the suit is a Neotron astronaut. Just for reference. *WICP - Work In Continual Progress.
  20. Scene from James Cameron's 1986 movie 'Aliens'. Custom minifigs by Blacktron After featuring on 'The Brothers Brick' a few weeks ago (thanks guys!) these Lego Aliens pics went viral in the wider movie fan community, with appearances on a number of movie blogs like these: As a result I've had 88,000 views on my Aliens album page so far - so I guess Blacktron will be needing to make some more of his awesome colonial marines. Thanks everyone!
  21. Missing Brick

    Aliens: Let's Rock!

    A scene from James Cameron's 1986 movie 'Aliens' Vasquez minifigure & smart gun by Blacktron The floor is made from trans-clear bricks overlaid by grill tiles, allowing uplighting from below.
  22. Missing Brick

    Aliens Knife Trick

    Scene from James Cameron's 1986 movie 'Aliens'. "Hey Bishop. Do the thing with the knife." Hudson: "It ain't funny man. It ain't funny" Thanks to Matthias for the custom Aliens minifigs:
  23. I was wondering if I could get some light bricks to incorporate into some of my sets, and have been looking, but as far as I can tell, you can't buy them individually. I can only see them being available in a few sets, like the 'Family House' and some of the Winter Village type sets. Am I missing something, is there a way of getting them?
  24. Hey there everyone, I'm Joev14, a new guy on the forums. I got myself pretty much all the fall 2013 star wars sets, and have been experimenting with an idea I had, what if it were possible to put working lego electronic lights into a Republic Gunship and AT-TE, without using any modified parts. After much work, I have finally found a way to do lights in both the AT-TE and the Gunship. So without further ado, I present to you, building steps for how to install working unmodified lights into your Republic Gunship. Click the photos to be linked to larger versions of the images. Sorry for the change in lighting throughout the pictures, sometimes the flash from my camera makes it hard to see the separate white parts, so I don't always use it. Step 1: Begin with a standard 75021 Republic Gunship (Mine is slightly modded with orange accents and a few other things, but the base design is still the same) Step 2: Absolutely necessary parts. You will also need a wire of whatever desired length (I recommend the 15-stud long ones), and two of these lights. Step 3: Recommended parts Step 4: Remove any parts that may get in your way, including minifigs inside the hangar. I also recommend removing the wings, although you don't absolutely need to. Step 5: Remove this chunk of the ship. Step 6: Remove the two sides of the upper section of the ship. Step 7: Continue by removing all the above-shown parts. Step 8: Remove the 4 containers. It is your choice whether or not you want to keep them. I chose to turn them into a crate as shown below. Step 9: Canister pod Step 10: Remove these two pieces Step 11: Replace the four openings where the canisters used to be with these four bricks. Also, run a wire from the hanger roof through the opening in front of the handle as shown. Step 12: Place these three plates on the bottom of the battery box. Make sure to put in a 9V battery first, so you don't have to go back and do it later! Step 13: Place the battery box in the space shown. Attach the lead of wire to the battery box (make sure to skip one set of studs, this is crucial). Step 14: Place two of the slopes in front of the wire end, and two small cheese slopes behind the co-pilot. Place 2 L-shaped plates around the wire opening. Step 15: Place two 1x2 plates ontop of the L-shaped ones, then another two L-shaped plates facing in the opposite direction atop those. Finally, place two 1x3 plates ontop, bridging the battery box to the L-shaped plates. Step 16: Place two more 1x3 plates on both sides of the end of the wire. Place two rounded slopes atop them, and finally, place a 2x4 tile on top of the wire end. Step 17: Place two more rounded slopes to cover the wiring. Step 18: Reattach the remaining large sections of the upper part of the ship, excluding the wings. You may fill in the gaps as desired. I intentionally left the 1x4 block area behind the co-pilot exposed so you can still press the button on the battery box. Step 19: Next comes the lights. There is no specific way you have to place them, but I chose to do it in this configuration. With a few red studs, as well as two round trans-orange bricks, I can get the two lamps to light up the whole hangar. Step 20: Above are the parts you should still have remaining, assuming you used the same method I did. Step 21: Reattach the wings and put all your figs back in, your done! Step 22: And boy does it look sweet! What are everyone's thoughts/suggestions for this? The only thing that really seemed to have me stumped was the rounded slopes in front of the handle, I couldn't figure out a sturdier design. While it does hold up, it looks a little awkward with all the obvious spaces between the bricks. I can't figure out a better looking way to do it and still have room for the wire though. Ideas? Facecast Episode discussing these modifications: (skip to 15:20) I will be posting the guide for how to put lights into a 75019 AT-TE soon!
  25. Missing Brick

    The Attack On Operations

    A Lego rendition of the famous scene from James Cameron's 1986 movie 'Aliens'. ------------------------------ "They cut the power..... What do you mean 'they cut the power'? How can they cut the power? They're animals!" "Hudson, I want you and Vasquez walking the perimeter with motion trackers. We can't afford to let one of those b@stards in here" "I've got signals ... definitely inside the barricades. They're in here... There's movement all over the place!" "Vasquez? .... Hudson may be right". Get back to operations!! Seal the lock! "Signals clean. Range 20 meters....Six meters... five.. four... what the hell?" Custom aliens minifigs by Matthias aka Blacktron