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Found 5 results

  1. Hello guys, Good Friday is here, everything is together to build but I'm somehow out of the ispiration. So I've decided to make a video about one of my old MOC's, however all those pics and vids I made back then are somewhat low quality. Excuse me for that please. It is an almost FJ40 looking dwarf jeep. Started out as an experimental chassis. Madoca's CUV had an interesting drivetrain and that inspired me to build the same concept as dense as it is possible. Accordingly it uses two PF L motors to drive each side separatelly trough an 8/24 gear ratio. A PF Servo motor is responsible for the steering and all govern by an Sbrick. As power source I could've use a AAA battery box, but since I'm addicted to my Lipo solution, I've used those. You may complain for the inaccuracy of using independent suspension in a jeep, so let me speak in my deffense: Once the chassis was done I was scratching my head what body should I put on it. As I said this is an old project, it has been done sometime when the FJ40 fewer gone across in the community. I'm being not quite good in building bodywork, decided to make something similar mostly following the shapes of rm8's FJ40. Probably it is a bit out of proportions, but since it was looking cute I've let it be as it was. Much later when I've discovered the Axle Collection Thread, I've find something similar to this suspension and drivetrain so I don't think it is any revolutionary here for you. Anyway, I hope you like this video peppered with some happy classical music. Happy Easter
  2. Hello everyone! This time I built a modification of rm8's Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. FJ40 Crawler Weight: 1145g Propulsion: XL motor for 4 wheel drive Steering: Servo motor 2 speed gearbox: M motor Winch: M motor Headlights: PF light Powered by: SBrick and 8878 rechargeable battery box This is my third SBrick model. One SBrick and a rechargeable battery box fit well in the rear space. Unfortunately tumbler tires from 42050 cannot use for front axle. They touch the connectors when steered. So I used normal balloon tires. One XL motor has enough power to climb the slope of over 35 degrees even in high gear (4.2:1). It can climb much steeper slope in low gear (12.6:1) but less-grippy balloon tires would start slipping. You can see that situation in the second half of the video. Building process was not straightforward. First, I decided to adopt bigger wheels, working headlights, motorized two speed gearbox and winch. Also I was planning to keep the whole original bodywork as possible. Like rm8’s chassis, it has front and rear live axles with 3 links. In offroad driving, 81.6mm wheels require gear reduction after differentials. My first attempt was using central torque vectoring diff and rear portal axle like my Off Road Pickup. Front axle was not changed. Although it kept the same wheelbase as original, this version was failed. Every time I started driving, 20t bevel gear and diff disengaged. Second plan was using front and rear portal axle. I tried to make the wheelbase as short as possible. It became five studs longer than the original. So I needed slightly longer body. Building whole chassis was the most difficult. The problem was how to minimize the mechanism of motorized gearbox. I used new driving ring and red clutch gears. I felt that they were stronger elements than old version and they could handle more torque. Although 2 speed gearbox was simple, I had to hide the whole mechanism under the seats. I eventually squeezed a mini linear actuator into the left of gearbox. Changing gears is not fast, but it's easy to adjust lever in neutral position in case of using winch. The winch mechanism is the same as the original. It is powerful enough to help climbing steep hills. I have to say that rm8 had achieved perfect weight distribution. I recognized it when I was attempting to build various versions of chassis which had different motor locations. So in my final version, all PF elements are in nearly the same position as original. The bodywork needed some minor changes due to the new chassis and my parts assortment. In original “face”, it was impossible to put LEDs into behind the headlights and shine trans-clear parts. Moreover, Round tile 2x2 trans-clear seems not to be the official parts. My alternative was built out of available parts. I know the original looks far better and hard to change. But it was worth for me to find another solution. Original FJ40 is modular building. It has various options like doors, roof and snorkel. Since my MOD became bigger and heavier, I didn't add the roof. (Still, four soft shock absorbers are slightly compressed when it stands stationary.) Instead, I built detachable doors in two versions. Building instructions: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/Madoca1977/fj40-crawler I hope you like it!
  3. Hi, Here is my latest creation. When I started, I selected several goals: - middle scale for RC playability - weight distributed to front for better crawling performance - easy removable hard top - motorized winch - realistic body and proportions as close as possible to original. Full article with building process, WIP photos and result is here in my blog(translate by goolge). It is realtively small MOC, but it has more than 1000 parts and it takes 14 monthes of building and rebuilding. Yes, I am slow builder, comparing to other guys. May be I should hire a hamster to help me:) I wasted too much time for it. So now, I am sure the proportions and functions are good enough for me. features: - Scale approx. 1:12 - Fully motorized and remote controlled - Fully removable hard top with 3 versions. 10 seconds for conversion! - Customs stickers - Openable doors, bonnet and back doors. Side doors with locks - Foldable front and rear seats - Dashboard Technic specs: - Suspension with live axles, supported by 3 links - AWD transmission with differentials in the axles and locked central differential (XL motor). Gear 20:28 - Link steering (Servo-motor) - Winch ready with motorized PTO (M motor) + ready for second PTO motor Dimensions: - Weight: 1050 gr. (including LiPo battery and additional PTO M motor) - Length: 296 mm (37 studs) - Width: 120 mm (15 studs) - Height: 160 mm (20 studs) -Wheelbase 173 mm (21,5 studs) more photos here http://www.bricksafe.../pages/rm8/FJ40 WATCH FULL VIDEO PRESENTATION HERE UPDATE: INSTRUCTION AVAILABLE You can download it now in PDF or watch my picasa album Partlist is represented in 5 versions: 1.Just chassis - 413 pcs 2.Light - 749 pcs 3.Cabrio - 883 pcs 4.Base - 1162 pcs 5.Expedition - 1284 pcs
  4. I was inspired by building the excellent Toyota FJ40 model designed by rm8 which can be found elswhere in this forum (at http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=103380). I developed a mod for the FJ40 to place the battery on the roof rack so that the interior is not too packed (and you can see the rear seats). Then I decided to build a camper trailer in the same colour scheme to go with it. This is what the whole thing looks like: The trailer has a parking wheel that is retracted when hitched to the FJ40 and lowered when stand alone. A removable pin structure holds it in either the retracted or lowered position. Picture of trailer standing alone with parking wheel lowered is : http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6287054 The roof of the trailer sits on locating pins and can be removed. This is to allow further development into a working pop-top camper trailer. LDD for trailer is : http://www.brickshel...ailer_whole.lxf
  5. Hi, I have good news. My YouTube channel reached 3000 subscribers. And here is my latest MOC Teaser.