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Found 12 results

  1. I've recently come out of my Lego "dark age" and started rebuilding some of my old sets. I was never one to keep sets together very long, so naturally i've lost a lot of stickers. One of my other hobbies is classic bicycles, which often share the dilema of missing or damaged art. This method for producing decals was taught to me by a clever artist on a popular bicycle forum, so he really deserves any and all credit. This method is simple and inexpensive and much of the materials are common. I assume the trickiest part for most people will be producing the art. I happen to have Adobe Illustrator at home, so I am able to create my own vector art files. I believe other cheap, maybe even free software exists. Sometimes high quality art can also be found as images on the web. On to the step-by-step: 1) Produce the art. Use a laser printer and any cheap printer paper. Laser printing is key... if you don't have one, you could try any of the copy shops around. As mentioned, I used Adobe Illustrator. I am replacing the decals for 6594 Gas Transit. DSC04389 by mkeller234, on Flickr 2) Cover the art with packaging tape. DSC04390 by mkeller234, on Flickr 3) Burnish the tape onto the image. I use scissor handles and rub over the tape surface. You will be able to see which areas have bonded well. It doesn't take much effort. DSC04391 by mkeller234, on Flickr 4) Cut the decals out. The closer, the better. I usually follow the shape of the art, but it doesn't really matter. DSC04392 by mkeller234, on Flickr 5) Submerge in water DSC04393 by mkeller234, on Flickr 6) Once the paper is saturated, it can be rubbed away with light pressure from your thumb. Remove as much paper as possible. DSC04394 by mkeller234, on Flickr As you can see, the decals are clear. This is both a blessing and a curse. I happen to be positioning these over white bricks, so the colors will look nice. For use with dark bricks, you will need to either paint the back with white paint, or find a printer that can print white (ALPS). DSC04395 by mkeller234, on Flickr 7) Place the decals on your model. These decals are very forgiving and can be slid around easily. They stick on their own without glue. Make sure you allow them to dry completely before really handling them. 8) Admire your work! DSC04399 by mkeller234, on Flickr DSC04398 by mkeller234, on Flickr Ahhh... the teeth marks of my youth. DSC04400 by mkeller234, on Flickr Lego trucks sure have changed since I was young. I love the detail in these new models! DSC04401 by mkeller234, on Flickr
  2. droomangroup

    Lego Room Build

    hey all, thought i'd share my latest build...our LEGO room! so about a year ago I built a lego play area in our basement, which looked something like this... It wasn't much, but it was a start. it was a mostly color sorted system, but still like half of the bins were type sorted. I think it's a good method for kids or casual building, since sorting is a lot easier/faster and at the time it was 100x better than digging through a huge bin...but I soon realized type sorting was the only way to go. Since we were still getting settled into a new house and had an extra bedroom that wasn't getting used, I decided to annex it in the name of Lego. Here's the workbench part of the room and the view you see when walking in. I'm using a 10mm lens so this room looks bigger than it is, it's roughly an 11x11 room. we had an empty room to play with and after a year of pondering what we'd do with it, we decided a LEGO room would be the best use :) The workspaces are for my daughter and I, and the yellow chair is for my wife so she can hang out with us. All the storage bins are IKEA Trofast and I custom build the work bench on a frame of 2x4s and plywood with large trofast bins on each side. I was a bit worried the 7ft span in the middle would be too much but since one end is supported on the wall directly to the studs and the top is pretty solid, it is actually really sturdy. Here's a bottom view of the work bench, I added some 3/4 melamine panels to the back of the bins to stop the bins from going too far back and for adding some extra support for the workbench. Since I hate painting 2x4's I decided to face the front edge using some cut up grey baseplates i had that were partially damaged. I just cut them on a table saw and epoxied them on. I used bricks between them so assure they would be properly spaced and i'm sure someday we'll decorate them, but even as grey plates it looks good. Close up view of the front edge surface... Next up was lighting. The room has crappy lighting so I replaced the fan/light combo with a large ikea light and was going to hang ikea work lamps above the work bench, but then I realized it would obstruct the wall and be generally annoying. so I decided to wire up some LED strips I had left over from another project. These are warm white 3-chip LED flexible strips from superbrightled.com that i just adhered to some aluminum L channel. Then I cut more baseplate strips and epoxied them on to the L channel and then covered the entire L channel face with 2x yellow plates (only the already damaged baseplates were kraggled). The lights are 12V LEDs and draw about 1.2amp, so I used an old 3amp 12V converter I had laying around in my pile of converters then wired them to a toggle switch that mounted to this LEGO case. Here you can see the view underneath, I had to cut up some of the edging strips so the light could stay flush which was a PITA. Had I planned to do the LEDs before installing the bin frames I could have done that a bit cleaner. Using some left over L channel, a few screws and some 3M double sided tape I made this little 2x shelf for some of our favorite minifigs (i may need to make this longer :) My little corner, the Simpsons house and the modular are in for repairs... The space man decal was in the plan from the beginning, hence the red wall. here's the first two layers on, the extra squares are for registration. Here's the final decal. I made the illustration myself and used to sell these on etsy in a single color, but even though it was original artwork, the LEGO lawyers still objected to it so it's no longer for sale. :( Some of the small bin labels, it's so nice having a vinyl cutter. Here's a detail of the labels I made, I used this funny shape at the top to help me position the decals easily using the plastic supports in the bin's lip for alignment, it worked out great. Some of the small bin labels. I was a bit concerned about my choices for organization, I agonized over it for a long time, but it worked out pretty well. I have a few changes I'm going to make and I may do another small trofast set in the closet to handle some oddball groups like nacelles, and vertical wing/stabilizers. The one big mistake I made was forgetting about modified plates larger than 1x2. Not sure where those are going yet, for now they're in a loose bin in the closet. Here's the opposite wall which is mostly just straight bricks/plates/tiles. The trick with this side was that I only had room for 6 large bin frames and the small bin frames didn't exactly fit on top of that, so I modified one small bin frame so it was only 2 bins wide then used the cut off scraps to fill the gaps. Then I just covered the tops with some black melamine to make the top nice and usable. Here you can see the modified small bin frame. I also added a backer piece of melamine to keep the bins or bricks from falling back. The bins in this pic still have their old labels on from our first sort which was mixed sort with color/type. You can see how I made spacers from the cut off pieces of the shortened frame to fill the gaps between them. Some of the brick bins are a bit crowded, I may sort some out, or stack em to save space. I had a few PAB cups of some colors I stashed in the closet to keep the bin more manageable, for now they are ok. if they get too full I may go thru them and retire some of the scratched up bricks. My wife's contribution to the room, this awesome embroidery of the girl robot minifig... The closet is a pretty good size too and has some room for bins as well, definitely going to pick some up next time I'm at ikea... The big re-sort was pretty brutal, but seemed to go a lot faster than the previous sort, no doubt because a lot of types had been separated out... sorting the types from previously sorted-by-color piles as pretty soothing to the old OCD though... anwyay, that's it, hope you've enjoyed the pics!
  3. M_slug357

    [MOC] Narrow Gauge & 9V

    Hello fellow train heads, Today I have for your viewing pleasure a 9V system that's been adapted for Lego narrow gauge (4 stud wide) track: NG: 9V shunter (3) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Here's the engine up close: NG: 9V shunter (1) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr And the underside: NG: 9V shunter (2) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Now here's a video of it in operation: NG: 9V shunter (vid 1) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr It's pretty finicky in operation at the moment, so I'm looking for your input on ways that I can improve this system! The two main areas that need help are 1) the engine's traction and 2) the electrical pickups. Thanks in advance for your help! ~Nick J~
  4. Myself, @jtlan, and @codefox421 bought a full loop of ME Models R56 metal curves way back when we still expected to get an all-metal rail design. As we all now know, the all-metal rail design proved a fantasy, and ME Models delivered Code 100 rail set in plastic holders. This track has proven extremely finicky when we've used it mainly because the Code 100 rail is not pre-bent before it is inserted into the plastic holder. This means that the "curved" track is constantly trying to straighten itself back out and subsequently alters the geometry of the plastic holder such that all the curves are too wide for the nominal radius of the curves. The then incorrect geometry makes assembling the curve very difficult as you have to force the parts into the proper curvature and they are very keen to come apart. The most visible symptom of this issue is the relatively sharp angle between the non-contiguous sections of Code 100. This wasn't too bad when the curves were new, but it has gotten worse over time. A circle of metal R56 when new The same parts almost a year later Straight metal track when removed from the holder So today, myself and jtlan decided to try to rectify the issue by doing exactly what ME Models failed to do: pre-bend the rails such that they aren't messing with the geometry of the plastic holders (or at least not as much). What we ended up doing after some trial and error was building a LEGO roll bender through which you can run the Code 100 rail. It's hard to show the rail in the rollers as someone needs to be pressing down on the assembly for it to not come apart while rolling, but this picture gives you a general idea of what's happening. You feed the rail through two of the rollers (the sides of the 3x3 disks fit somewhat nicely into the side of the Code 100 rail - do note that this will damage the disks if you roll enough track), and then it will deflect upward when it hits the third roller. This causes the rail to deform into a tighter radius than required, but it will spring back a bit due to physics. The way we determined how to space the rollers was simple trial and error. The final spacing we used is shown below. Here is a piece of rolled track next to the plastic holder. You can see that the roller spacing we chose actually makes the curves slightly too small, but we wanted to compensate a little for the fact that we can't bend the ends that well with this method. Either way the the forces distorting the plastic holders are much smaller than before, and it should make the track easier to assemble and less prone to blowing up. Here you can see that the connection between two pieces of rail is much smoother than before: We haven't rolled our whole batch of R56 yet, so there might be more to this saga, but so far this looks promising. Anyone else experienced similar issues with the ME Models metal track and/or have tried to fix it?
  5. I was wondering if it is possible to make custom technic pieces out of acrylic or something? For example, buying a sheet of acrylic the same thickness as a lego technic and then drilling the appropriate holes in it?
  6. Hey builders! Recently I made a LEGO power functions laser (topic can be found here), and it got me thinking... what els can I build? That's how I came to the idea of making a LEGO electromagnet! Making it was actually a whole lot easier than making the LEGO laser. The LEGO laser required a 9 volt to 5 volt converter and reversed -polarity protection. The electromagnet was already made for 9 volt and it does not care about polarity. I just got the motor out and unhooked the 2 wires, then connected those 2 wires to the electromagnet and... it worked! I'm amazed by the strength of this small thing, under good conditions (unpainted, flat metal) it can lift up to 6 kilo's! I have no specific idea of how to use it in MOC but I'm sure I'll think of a good application for it. All suggestions are welcome by the way Tell me what you think ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ BUILDING LOG weight: 78 gramscapacity: 6 kilo+ To make one yourself you need: PARTS: - a 9 volt electromagnet (ebay is a good source, I bought mine for 5.46$). - some glue (I used hot glue) - soldering tin & shrink tube TOOLS: - flathead screwdriver or prying tool - soldering iron -lighter (for shrink tube) First you need to open up the PF XL motor housing, this is quite hard. I found the best way is to squeeze it just a bit in a vice so the outer shell becomes oval and you can stick a small thin screwdriver in the gap to open it(mind the position in the vice!). This is what you will find on the inside: Disconnect the 2 wires attached to the motor, put the top half of the casing is a vice and dremel out the center rougly to the size of you electromagnet: Then make everything perfectly round with a small file untill the electromagnet fit's snug in the housing: After pressing it in the housing, get 2 lego beams and attach them to the 2 forward facing holes. this way you can make the magnet perfectly flush when mounted in a MOC: Then seal the electromagnet firmly in place using glue (I used hot glue). Next you solder the 2 wires coming from your electromagnet to the 2 wires that were attached to the motor (the inner 2 strands of the 4 strand LEGO wire, polarity does not matter). Make sure you use shrink tube to isolate both wires! Then glue the motor plate (holding the LEGO wire) in place and test the magnet! If it works close it up and you're done!! I hope you enjoined this build log, if you have any questions just let me know!
  7. Hi Our local online technic community LEGO Technic Russia took part in LEGO Technic Trial challenge this november (08/11/15) For me it was a nice possibility to test my DIY obstacles I did with my father during summer and autumn. I was inspired to build such obstacles seeing this brilliant track by OzBen and Doc_Brown (http://www.eurobrick...78&hl=challenge). The goal was to made it modular and transportable. I used wood, building foam, natural stones and other stuff that is easy to find and work with. At first it was hard to imagine all different ideas. In the end I even build river pass module - based on plastic container that was decorated with foam, stones and painted. Some obsatcles was covered randomly by grippy sealant for better wheel grip. I have only one problem - how to fit all the stuff at two narrow tables...but result was very good! Here is Desert752 As for trial challenge: we had about 15 offroaders. Some of them was based on well known MOCs (like Madoca's pickup) and some was own creations. Contestants was divided by 2 groups 1) Trophy. Mostly civil SUVs with at least one open front differential. Rear can be locked or free. Wheels 62 or 68 mm. 2) Unlimted. Tuned SUVs with wheels up to 83 mm. No differentials and wheel gear reductors possible. The idea was that trophy car had better mobility and steering,and Unlimited was able to crawl everywhere. But locked rear diff at first group makes them crawl good as Unlimited trucks. So track times was equal. We measured track time and added extra time for hitting flags or using help of hand/wrecker. Desert752's blue Toyota 6x6 Wrecker worked there as TOW service) In the end we saw that both classes was able to compete each other. First role played driving skills and driving accuracy. Glad to saw there AFOLs from different cities of Russia and even from Belarus. As for me, I have to drive with all that stuff in my car 1300 km one way. We had a nice time there. Thanks for LEGO Group for given prizes. In the end, All phots here http://bricksafe.com/pages/rm8/trial-challenge-megabricks I have a short long video of that meeting.
  8. jeubzzz

    Custom Minifigures

    I have a folder on my computer comprised entirely of custom minifigure designs - (some I have made myself) So my questions are: Sizing - how do I size the templates to fit lego minifigures? Also I'm not overly technical on a computer Printing - where and how do I print the designs? What materials will I need? Application - what is the best way to apply the designs to my lego?
  9. Hi guys, I want to have a tachometer to test my MOCs RPM and I am considering four options: Building it with LEGO (I have seen videos of LEGO tachometers (Nico71 is a great example) and they worked quite well but centrifugal tachometers are big and not really accurate, because you have to calibrate it yourself). Buying some sort of RC tachometer (I can't find any at a good price that could be attached to my MOCs. Buying the LEGO speed computer. Use gear ratio calculators and not buy or build anything (I will need to switch on the computer each time I want to know something, because I don't think there is any mobile app for Android to calculate LEGO gear ratios or at least I couldn't find it). What should I do? Any advice of which one to buy if you choose second option? Thank you in advance and sorry for my poor English, I hope you can understand it. EDIT: 5th option: Making it using Arduino but I think it's quite difficult/expensive to make it work as accurate as a "real" tachometer.
  10. Well, I've been lurking on these forums for a while. Time for me to contribute. Since a few weeks, my daughter and me have had a (modest) train layout with a cargo train, a passenger train, three sets of switching tracks and a decent amount of track. Having been an avid lego builder in my younger years, I really love sharing this with her. Anyway, because we were both eager to add some excitement to the setup, I decided to sacrifice two straight pieces of PF track and make a track crossing (whoa, accidents!). How I did it: The first of the two straights was cut in three pieces by cutting out a track section one stud wide on the 6th position, on both sides. Next, the center piece of this chopped up straight was disposed of its side studs. The second straight was also butchered by removing its central 2x2 and both of its central 2x1 side studs. Four more studs were removed on its sides as can be seen on the image. In addition to that, four grooves were carved out of this second straight. Tools used: a sharp knife, a miniature circular saw blade (on a Dremel clone) and a miniature grinder on the same Dremel. No glue whatsoever. It took a while to do this (+- 1 hour). To help making the cuts on the right place, I sacrificed two of my old lego 8x1 flats: it is quite convenient to click one of these on the piece of track right where it needs to be cut. The sawblade can then glide along them. (Honestly, the sacrificed pieces already suffered a dog attack in the early nineties. So it's not really a big loss ) The result: Everything fitted together: And by means of some 2x2 plates (I should probably get some bluish grey ones ), all the parts are connected: The result was added it to our layout and I must say that this piece makes the track a whole lot more interesting when trying to drive two PF trains around. With all the crashes we have had so far, I must say it's a good thing we still have my old faithful eighties firefighter helicopter around. Note: I did not consider buying a 4519 since I can't really justify its ~25€ price tag (used) for my PF setup. And of course it was just a nice silly project I enjoyed doing .
  11. mtrkustoms

    MOC: Yellow Shunting Engine

    Hi all, I present my second train creation in bricks here An invented shunting engine to power my RENFE Bed-car 9600 Series This is not a nice, or real shunting engine, but works well and have enought torque to move the cars without problem. and work in all Lego train curves The motor is a 88002, that have more power that I thought, the tip is to put weight on it to prevent slippage of the wheels. Is full PF with a custom Li-Ion battery (2500mAh in this case) Detail of the custom PF Li-Ion Battery Pulling the Bed-car The No-Conventional coupling A Conventional Old-magnets coupling I hope you enjoy it
  12. Hello! My Rescue Helicopter (9396) is about to be delivered ( ) and I have this idea to put enormous amount of LEDs in it. I have a plan to use Arduino to program proper blinking sequence. I was thinking about mounting also 2 M-motors to motorize rotor and functions. I would love to control them via Arduino but I do not have an idea how to connect motors in a proper way. Has anyone ever done it? Thanks in advance for any tips!