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Found 9 results

  1. Hello everyone! I have been lazy in the last two months with making new posts... But today I would like to snow you my DEEP MOD of a Lego 42099 set. This project was build in September of 2021, so it was build tested, improved and disassembled quite some time ago . Features: Original body of 42099 with custom RC chassis 4-wheel drive independent suspension with positive caster of all 4 wheels Double steering arms (for stability in jumps and bumps) Ackerman steering geometry with minimized stress on the joints 2 x Buwizz motors for propulsion C+ L-motor for steering 2 x Buwizz 3.0 for power (one unit is enought but I used two for longer driving distance) Total mass ~1,2 kg Planetary hubs, and fast output of Buwizz motors provides a lot of torque and a decent speed The beginning of the project Last summer I build myself a Red coupe. It was a good car, which is cool to drive. But,.. It was not adapted for the Russian roads . After several bumps and crashes, I decided to build a car that will overcome all obstacles on the road. So I started a new project, and all the circumstances (which will be shown later) strongly influenced the outcome! Then I was building a Red Coupe, I needed more red parts, so I bought two Ducati 42107 sets. I got charmed by new motorcycle wheels (i was dreaming of a car with such wheels)! The motorcycle wheels are light and have big diameter, that is important on the bumpy roads, so the wheels for my project were found. Also, at the very beginning of September I bought myself a 42099 set and I wanted to improve it with my new Buwizz motors. With 42099 I get planetary hubs which I desired to test from the time of their appearance, so all the choices was made! Underlying Ideas The main goal was to make a car with buggy motors (Buwizz motors) and a strong suspension. Also I waned to use planetary hubs since the original 42099 car has them. I have already learned that to be able to control a fast car, you need a well-designed steering system. As a minimum it should have a positive caster, and the double steering arms will also strengthen the steering system at the bumps.The main question for me was the following: Should I try myself in building front wheels drive, or not? Red Coupe project give me quite some experience in building solid suspension with positive caster: with steering at the front and with drive motors (without steering) at the back, but I never build a front wheels drive with positive caster and Ackerman steering geometry! My head was troubled with a problem: How can one fit differential and steering rack and a "broken car frame" (for castor) in between front wheels? Well, after a month of thinking, and multiple unsuccessful attempts, I found the solution. The idea was to make a horizontal car frame with suspension arms angled! My build is a little bit "illegal" since it uses the right triangle with side lengths 4,4,1, but it totally works with admissible Lego flexibility (an axle in a pinhole can wobble a bit). The steering motor and a steering rack was placed over the differential. The last problem it the project was with front joints. I waned to minimize the stress from the suspension travel and the steering. Since the car frame was build horizontal while the suspension arms were build at the positive angle, it was impossible to make the drive shaft lined with suspension arms... I placed the output of the differential a bit further to the front of the car, so the drive shaft was going a bit backwards from the differentials to the wheel hubs. This trick allowed me to make an Ackerman geometry without limiting the steering angle (in order to keep the front joints alive). After I overcome all the problems with the front wheels drive, the rest of the car was build by one evening! The drive shaft I used the fast outputs of Buwizz motors (one motor for front and the back). After that i speed them up with 20:12 ratio and connect to the differentials (20:28). Finally, planetary hubs slow the speed by 5.5 times.... Planetary hubs allowed me to have a bigger steering angle, but they slowed the car dramatically ;-) Although the max speed is good: ~7 km/h, so it is quite fan to drive the car during a wak in the park. 4x4 drive and proper suspension with good ground clearance (comparing to the Red coupe) make the driving experience very relaxing: no worrying about the bumps on the road! I can prove my words with a short video: Conclusion As a conclusion, I can say, that this project was very challenging for me, but the result is very satisfying: I really enjoyed driving it around my neighborhood. The main drawback of the model is that the Buggy motors uses too much power, and most of this power transforms into torque, and the car has way way more torque it will ever need!
  2. I know that there are topics similar to this one, but they don't provide a solution to my questions . I'm trying to find out about the compatibility of 3rd party RC components, so that I can use them to fully power 2 buggy motors (or more). And this is how I plan to use them: Transmitter* -> Reciever/ESC* (and battery) -> Buggy motors and RC Servo -> Lego built car. *What I need to get. Here are my questions: What is the minimum of 3rd party components that I need? How good is the compatibility of different brands of Transmitter, Receiver/ESC, and RC servo? (most important question!) Is a ESC the same as a Receiver? What have you used or recommend? (because I know some of you have done something like this before) I already have got 2s and 3s lipos (but I would prefer to use the 11.1 volts of the 3s), I only have toy-grade RC car experience (not hobby-grade), and I don't want to spend more than AUD $50 (for everything) if possible. I know these questions are not technically about Lego, but I will be using it with Lego, and I thought that that some of you have experience with RC - so might be able to help .
  3. Hello! I'm back with another MOC, most likely the last one for a long time as I'm rapidly approaching a Lego dark-age of my own (college). This time around I'm finishing off my series of high-speed vehicles with a special rally-style chassis. It is my best handling version so far and it actually has bodywork (more of a tubular rollcage). Details: RC - featuring the custom electronics I've been using for previous versions. Link for those who haven't seen my setup yet. 4 Buggy motors for drive (2 driving each rear wheel, disconnected in the middle). Servo steering (normal Lego servo). 4 Wheel independent suspension - rear includes anti-roll bar and shorter top links while the front has caster and active camber due to shorter top link. Both axles have modified pneumatic cylinders acting as springs+dampers together. Extremely sturdy chassis with little to no twist (I tried hard to twist it from end to end, doesn't budge) plus sturdy rollcage that can be used to pick up the MOC. 3D printed wheels by efferman, as well as 3D printed spherical gear counterparts that act as really strong CV joints. The sturdy construction allows the suspension to work as intended, absorbing every bump. Here is the video: And now for a photo dump: Hope you guys like it! Sorry purists
  4. Hello, after a long pause I decided to begin a new project, another high speed chassis, but this time I wanted to build a chassis with proper driven independent suspension and lighter than my previous build. After many attempts in the past, I concluded that this wouldn't be possible without printed pieces, as lego u-joints just can't survive the shock load of 4 buggy motors. My previous MOCs either had solid driven axles or suspension using only one u-joint, which didn't have ideal handling. Now, after testing efferman's 3D printed CV joints (coupled with Lego spherical gears, similar to 8880) on a small MOC, I used them on this large scale project. Results - it works! They easily handle the power and CV joints are more smooth in general. There is still room for changes and even after these pictures were taken I reinforced the rear suspension. Features/details: RWD - 4 Buggy motors, with 2 powering each wheel, they aren't coupled through the center. Independent suspension on all wheels, front uses efferman's printed wishbones. Servo steering Anti-roll bars 3rd party electronics and custom battery pack link for the curious Total non-Lego/modified parts: Wheel hubs made by nicjasno link Modified 9L links Printed wishbone pieces link Printed lower suspension arm pieces link Printed spherical gear holder (CV joint) link Modified pneumatic cylinders Photos: ^Pneumatic tubes work well to tie down the battery. Excuse the sand, took it offroad for a bit Oh man, I should never sell my parts after using them like this Enjoy!
  5. I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy!
  6. I present to your attention my new MOC - Mitsubishi Evo IX. I really like original car, that was the reason to built it in Lego version. In the first version of my machine was two speed gearbox, but I decided to remove it. Due to the heavy weight of the body, electronic parts and old receivers (V1), the machine even with 2 buggy motors drives badly. The model was built to Ukrainian Brick Fest 2014. Features / Functions: 1. Four-wheel drive through a center differential from slow outputs of two buggy motors. 2. Two receivers V1 3. Lockable central differential by M-motor. 4. Fully independent suspension. 5. Opening doors and trunk. 6. You can easily remove the battery boxes. 7. Steering with auto-reset by M-motor. Thank you for watching!
  7. Hello, Today I present to you my rc Rock Crawler. This machine is almost two years in the making, and it has gone through many revisions over time. The crawler features: two buggy motors for propulsion two speed gearbox (remotely switched) independent front and rear steering linked pendular suspension The body is very similar to a trophy truck, though it is not based off any real life truck. Bodywork is not my favorite, so it took the longest! In order to go around the limits set by the pf recievers, the buggy motors are attached to switches that are then directly attached to the battery boxes. The servo motor shown is used to turn the switch, causing the truck to go forwards or backwards. I stole this clever design from efferman, so all credits got to him. The two speed gearbox takes advantage of both outputs on the buggy motors, with the low speed coming from the slower of the two motor outputs. Though it works well indoors, the high speed does not have enough power to work well outdoors. Below you can see the switching mechanism as well as the gearbox itself. The best part about the crawler is the two axles. Designing the axles was the most challenging part of the build, as I wanted to have a solid base for the rest of the model. In order to slow down the buggy motors, a lot of reduction occurs in the middle of the axle. The process was made significantly easier when I got the new portal axles from the 41999 BOSS Set. In this photo you can also see the turntables. With all the space taken up by the gears, it was difficult to fit in the steering. The linked pendular suspension was achieved by connected the two turntables via a differential. While one side goes up, the other goes down. This setup has the advantage of not needing linkages or suspension, as well as greater travel. Here is the video, with plenty of driving out in the snow! Follow me on facebook for the latest updates and photos! More HIGH RESOLUTION photos can be found here. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=538172 I would appreciate feedback, this is only my second studless creation . tim
  8. The previous attempt at a large scale car failed because it was not strong enough for the drivetrain, and my attempts to make a sturdy chassis around it were not so great because of the vertical placement of the buggy motors. I have sitting on my desk now, a 2nd attempt at a large scale rc, with a much more simple and robust suspension, which will eventually use the new f1 hubs, at the moment I used the dark bley mog hub because of it's dimensions. I placed the buggy motors in a clever fashion, so there are many bracing opportunities for the rest of the chassis and the rear axle. Because of the eventual weight of the vehicle I had to put a combination of various shocks to get a perfect balance between soft and stiff-soft enough that it will absorb bumps and jumps but stiff enough that it wont bottom out (hit the ground) because there is a lot of travel and not that much clearance, and I will use the same wheels/tires as on the 42000. Photos: Enjoy!
  9. Hi everyone, have a good update. I abandoned my trial truck as it lost efficiency with many gears, and I have multiple WIP's on my desk, but at the moment i'm focused on my first large scale car, but it will be a fast RC, so no gearboxes or extra weight. This is mostly focused on performance..So far, I have done the rear axle and drivetrain. Special thanks to nicjasno, for making videos and pictures of his brilliant suspension ideas. I reverse engineered his rear multi-link suspension and reinforced it so it will stay together and work at high speed. This high speed will be possible with two buggy motors driving it from the 'slower' output, each powered by one of my rechargeable 10 volt batteries. Next I will figure out the front axle, most likely something from nicjasno again. One concern is the Remote...we really need a new remote, with proportional control (so I don't destroy my differentials) that has good response and maybe even radio control so I don't look like an idiot running after my MOCs! I realize a new remote/receiver would be expensive, but I'd pay for it because I'm annoyed by the poor response from train remote and the VERY low range of Infrared, especially outside. I know this is because Lego is an 'indoor toy' but some of us take playability to the next level, so maybe just release it as a separate power functions module? Here's pics and video BTW video (better camera but I screwed up the focus experimenting with various formats and such also, sorry)