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Found 22 results

  1. I know there is a lot of buzz about Chineese clones nowadays, but this is not a clonning brand and the product is very different from BuWizz, only sharing its form factor with it. I have discussed it with @Jim and he gave me permission to make this topic. Please refrain from meaningless post that you hate anything from China and that you wouldn't buy this. Thank you I have stumbled across a very interesting piece of hardware recenty - rechargable battery with four motor outputs AND remote controller - CADA remote control. The most interesting feature is indeed dedicated controller, unlike buwizz/sbrick there is no need for smart phone. I guess video (taken by František Hajdekr) is better than words: I can only say FINALLY, the need for smart phone is what makes buwizz/sbrick unusable for me, I just want plain controller, ready in 1 second and recharchable battery. The biggest question is of course what kind of hardware is inside the BB. The only info is that the battery inside is Li-ion, no info about capacity. I'm also very interested in motor controlling chip. I don't expect it will be comparable in power with BuWizz, I expect it to be better verision of LEGO Li-pol battery. So if there is anyone here who already purchased it and is willing to open it to give us some details, I would appreciate it.
  2. Looks like LEGO have retired the LEGO® Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box 8878 according to the product pages. Does anyone know if they are replacing this with anything new or whether we just have to use the AAA standard battery box going forward?
  3. I finally got time to take decent pictures of my latest Imperial turbolaser turret. Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr It is based from the design of Ismael Trabajo found on the Internet and adapted according to my stock of available parts. Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr It is an easy build with solid rendering. It can rotate, guns can move up and down (synchronized). The turret can be open to put in to 3 crewmen inside. Kids have lot of fun with that turret and many rebels died to bring you back these pictures. Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr Turbolaser Turret by Veynom, on Flickr And when exposing, it is massive enough to attract the eye while being a welcome change to the usual fleets of ships. Everyone asking for it, I made it public: here is a link toward the LDD of Ismael Trabajo that I used as basis for this MOC. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vaj7zQ8D8XmhPy3PowN1U9MTxkfBfc1v
  4. Almost all my MOCs are motorized but I always have felt admiration for the manual ones and in the end play with them is almost the same. Of course that some of them have to be motorized like trial trucks but I think that the machinery for example would be funny to play motorized or not, what do you think?, what are they advantages and disadvantages in your opinion?. I start first, manual ones would be cheaper and easier to scale well so you have a lot of them to choose in the other hand motorized ones are expensive and you have to find machines where you can put all the components respecting its scale which is always a big problem but in the end you are doing something that moves by itself... it is difficult to choose... I would like to start manual MOCs just to not to see more wires anymore...
  5. John2019

    Battery Buggy

    Dear Friends: As a part of my middle school science Olympiad competition I built a battery buggy using Lego pieces like axels, gears, motor, battery etc but this project requires motorized vehicle to stop automatically after going for certain distance (9 to 12 meters) and I am unable to make any progress on stopping part. Does you guys have recommendations please? Thanks, John D
  6. Hello, Technic, Mindstorms & Model Team people. I asked this question over at the Town forum (I'm trying to motorize some Fairground sets), but I think it might be better suited for his forum. Is there a difference between the technic-styled battery box (the one with the two sliding DBG panels for the battries) and the system-styled one? I only own technic-styled battery boxes, and I don't know if the system boxes give the motors different speeds or what. I already know there's an expensive system battery box that lets you regulate the speed, but I'd rather regulate the speed by using different cog sizes than shell out around 70CAD for a battery box.
  7. There has been some rumors that I am not capable to make new quizzes. This is NOT true! I come back with new quizzes. For warm-up, let's stick to 4.5v battery wagons again! After the successful quiz N1: which was followed with a new item on bricklink: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x488c03&idColor=5 now again: what do you find uncommon in this photo? I have told the answer to few friends. Please do not spoil. If you know the answer, you can pm me then I comment that you know the answer so that people can think about this photo for few days. There are gonna be harder quizzes, so prepare for them! ;-) :-) Have fun.
  8. Challenge II, Category A - North Head Battery Dirk's previous story can be found here Bregir's characters have been used with his permission. ------------------------------------------------------- After a fortnight’s hard work, the Colonial Half Battery that Dirk Allcock had been directed to site and supervise construction of was complete, and the temporary Governor of King’s Harbour, Captain Jonathan Cooke, was coming for an inspection. Dirk hoped the Governor would be impressed. With the assistance of Midshipman Knowles, he had carefully selected an appropriate site that had commanding views of the wide entrance to the bay, and provided a suitable field of fire in conjunction with the already established battery on the southern side. The chosen position sat at the edge of a rocky cliff, overlooking wide stretches of beach and enclosed by vegetation all sides. A small path had been cleared leading down into a nearby cove for access and resupply and it was this path that the Governor and his entourage now approached on. Dirk was a little nervous, for he had slightly exceeded his orders in that he had made some modifications to the prefabricated half battery design, which called for a straight palisade of wood to protect the two 24 pound guns. Whilst the original palisade design was more than suitable for protection from small arms, Dirk had felt that given the position and purpose of the battery; the palisade would be better suited with sloping walls to attempt to deflect any heavy shot from vessels trying to force entrance to the bay. Dirk's second improvisation was off a slightly larger scale. He had found a stone mason newly arrived in the colony, and had quickly press ganged him into building a small furnace adjunct to the battery. The purpose for this was not so the garrison could bake fresh bread (although the Colonial gunners were impressed!). Rather it was so the 24pound shot could be heated until red hot. This heated shot could then be employed against any enemy vessels attempting to force entry to the harbour. Fire, always the greatest fear onboard a wooden vessel, was the inevitable result of being struck by heated shot. Heated shot was usually only available to large, established forts, so to employ it in a makeshift half battery was un-heard off. Dirk however, always the innovator, simply could not resist pushing the boundaries of the possible. Captain Cooke arrived, and with him was the man Dirk had travelled to Cocovia to meet, Don Isaac Montoya. Montoya nodded at Dirk, the two had matters both were eager to discuss. Both men were passionate natural philosophers, and Montoya was proposing the establishment of a New World Branch of the Royal Society of Natural Philosophy. Duty, however, came first, and Dirk’s duty to the crown had meant reporting to Captain Cooke first, and the naval officer had entrusted him with establishing this battery, crucial to the defences of the new settlement. After pleasantries were exchanged, Captain Cooke made a detailed inspection of the site, the guns and the powder, ammunition storage and lastly the furnace. Dirk explained his modified design and the Governor carefully studied the fields of fire the guns provided. During this time, Montoya spied something on the beach below that captured his full attention. A notebook appeared in his hands as if by magic, and he began furiously taking notes and making sketches. “I say” he announced “I have never seen a sea turtle like it” Instantly distracted from the inspection, Dirk glanced down at the beach and at the large turtle crawling up it. “Ah yes, I call them ‘banded turtles’ due to the unusual dark horizontal band across the bottom third of the carapace. I believe that will be a female coming ashore to lay eggs” replied Dirk excitedly. “The natives hereabouts say that this area is a major breeding ground for them, although this is the first I seen come ashore.” “Yes that band is indeed unlike anything I have seen before” commented Montoya “The natives also say that the female turtles will return to precisely the spot they were hatched from to lay their eggs, although how they discern this fact I have no idea” added Dirk. Both men were now totally absorbed watching the turtle, making observations and comments as if the bemused governor and crew of the half battery did not even exist. “Is there a way down onto the beach?” Asked Montoya. Captain Cooke gave a slight shake of his head, and his lips turned slightly up in a grin. He knew his patron and good friend, Montoya, well enough to know that any hope of further discussions of arcs of fire or powder storage were hopeless. He also recognised the same traits in this Army officer. Truth be told he was well pleased with the battery. It had saved him the work of supervising the construction himself, and the location was indeed ideal. The modifications, to the battery design, while slightly un-orthodox, were indeed inspired. Only the Army would thought of something as devilishly effective as heated shot. The Naval officer in him disapproved. Fire was the enemy of all sailors. The governor in him however, was excited at this new capability. He nodded to his entourage; He would leave the two men to their turtle, the never-ending needs of the new settlement were calling him back to the harbour. ------------------------------------- Hope you enjoyed the rather long story! This has been my biggest build to date (a full 48x48), although I think my Cat B entry looks bigger! Actually there are a few firsts here for me, it is also my largest attempt at rock work, first brick built animal (sort off) and first time I've collaborated with another builder for the story (Cheers Bregir!). As always, comments and criticism welcome! Dirk's story continues here
  9. Hello, I have been building with Lego technic and power functions for about 2 years now and like many others have discovered that the 7.2v of 6 rechargeable batteries is sometimes not enough for some creations. One day I found a old TYCO RC for free, looked at the battery and saw,"9.6v" I thought "SCORE!" and started making a adapter for it. I made this "Rat Rod" to test out how the extra 2.4v effected fast models. So enough talking here are the pics IMG_6020 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_6021 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It uses: . Servo for steering. . 2 L-motors geared 3:1 for drive. . and obviously 1 custom battery "Box" The car was literately built around the Sbrick and has almost no open space in the chassis and it is very rigid for how small it is. The steering is regular rack and pinion and the L-motors were coupled together because there was sadly no room for a differential. I have not measured the top speed but I think it is around 6-10mph on a full charge. When I built the bodywork I tried to make it look tough and powerful almost like an armored bank vehicle. The battery almost took up all the space on the top so I had no room even to make a rough interior. I am not at all happy about the hood because of the steep angle and gaps but this was built just to test out the battery not to win a beauty award IMG_6024 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Almost forgot the most important picture. Here's the video All pictures and more are on my Flickr account LINK Thank you for reading
  10. I have long awaited the moment that two race buggy motors would be in my reach, as they are quite expensive now... and I also bought the Lego Technic lipo battery two years ago. The perfect recipe for a small lightweight racer! Read the rest of the story at: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/424516. For now, there's just these two pictures and two videos. To post the photos on Eurobricks, I had to serieusly resize them. If you want to see the better quality images, just click this link: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561899. All photos can also be found on the MocPage link, and can also be hosted from MocPages. This is because brickshelf has sometimes a rather long posting time. Please do not use THESE EXACT photos on another website, they are really at 10% of their real quality because Eurobricks requests it. The brickshelf photos are really better!
  11. Hi guys! I'm thrilled to release MiniZip; the adapter that lets you power your lego creations from a 9 volt battery! I am releasing it on Kickstarter to cover the production costs, and I need your help to do so! You can see the full project here: https://www.kickstar...-lego-creations Here's a video about it: Thank you for your support!
  12. Greetings! Recently I have noticed some people have made custom lipo's battery boxes like Doc_Brown I would like to know if anybody has experience with this type of thing, and how much voltage I can use without damaging motors If you know of any brands of lipo's with good ratings I could look into that would be much appreciated, also I am considering getting an SBrick and would like to know if more than 9V would damage it. Thank you
  13. Hi All, I'm starting to run some train layouts and wondered why idle/standby times are one the different battery boxes? 1: The Rechargeable box/8878: - what is the 'turn off' time? It seems to turn itself off after some time.. 15, 20 minutes? 2: Standby times expected? Anyone know how much power is used by the IR receiver or the SBrick if the box is left on? Both for the 8878 and the 8881 AA-Technic box? If I hook it up with a IR Receiver and leave it on, how many hours should I expect it to be idle if the motors is not running? Thanks in advance,
  14. So i am currently looking for new ways on battery packs for lego technics and I dont want to continuously go out and buy batteries and i dont want to spend alot of money to get a rechargable pack but i do have some li-po batteries sitting around for my RC planes, is it possible i can use these? If you have any ideas please comment about them, thanks!
  15. Hello Recently I bought a Mindstorms NXT programmable brick plus a rechargeable battery 9798 from someone on eBay. What the seller didn't mention is that the battery is slightly swollen. You can just about make it out in this terrible picture (sorry) : 20140918_193625 by freshfroot1, on Flickr So basically is has a slightly rounded top and bottom. I know that swelling up is normal for some batteries of this type and age (there are many cases of Apple MacBooks that have basically burst apart because of the same problem). It's not too bad yet and the battery still holds a charge. But I'd be interested to know if anyone else has experienced something similar, and if so, if it is possible to predict how long the battery will last. I know this could probably be a random number but I would be interested in others' experience anyway. Also what happens if it gets worse- does the battery split apart, just simply fail, explode dramatically? I'm not really bothered about it because the price I paid was about average for the NXT brick by itself. Also I'd expect it to be very unlikely that Lego would replace it, since it is probably several years old, is discontinued (replaced by 9693) and is probably counted as a consumable item anyway. Thanks --- EvilTwin
  16. z3_2drive

    Custom RC System

    First here are the links to all the parts in the system excluding battery and project box: *Motor controller: http://www.pololu.com/product/777 Receiver/Transmitter: http://www.rcplanet...._p/futk3100.htm *The motor controller I linked is the heavy-duty model that I used in my models, but there is a smaller, less powerful and cheaper version too* Ah I guess I'll link it too... Motor Controller(smaller option): http://www.pololu.com/product/767 Now, Here is the fully explained system: First: the jumble of lego wires on the left are the four wires that connect to the RC Buggy motors. the lego wire coming from the left is an extension to the servo. the red/white wires connect the controller and receiver the black and red wires connect to the port on the right, which you then plug a battery into. Second: the four lego motor wires are put together into one pair, which connects to the first two ports of the controller- Third:The red/black wires, which supply the power from the battery, connect into the 3rd and 4th port. *(There are six ports in total, where you see the screw-heads)* Fourth: Here is the tricky part The servo wire is made up of four small wires. Two of these supply power, and two control the movements of the servo. The two that supply the power are connected to port 3 and 4, with the battery wires. The two that control movement are connected to port 5 and 6, all by themselves. ^^^ so the way it is seen here is: SERVOCONTROL1--SERVOCONTROL2--SERVO/BATTERYPOWER1--SERVO/BATTERYPOWER2--MOTORCONTROL1--MOTORCONTROL2 Ok, so port 1/2 control buggy motors, port 3/4 give power to the system, port 5/6 control servo Here it shows how 1/2 and 5/6 correspond to two channels on the receiver: The red/white wires connect to channel 1 & 2 on the receiver: And finally here it is all together again: Sorry for the baby steps but I wanted to be clear. To know which wires from the servo control and give power, simply test with a multimeter and have this at your disposal:
  17. For Power Function Train, which do you prefer type of battery power function? Both have it own pro and con.... Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box 8878 Or Power Functions AAA Battery Box 88000 VOTE HERE POLL! http://www.poll-maker.com/poll116886x56B946D1-4 Not know the different in both battery? read on more below. Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box 8878 It rechaged by plug into the wall input. very convince way to recharge it up. But the question is how long dose the battery cycle life span last in long term? If it ran out of cycle charging out, you have to buy the new one for retail value USD $49.99. Very easy to leave the battery in the lego train and just put wire in the train while charge without need take them part to replace it. Power Functions AAA Battery Box 88000 The most cheaper battery pack retail value USD $12.99 that require you to put in 6 AAA battery, value of it may be reasonable if you use rechargeable AAA battery instead of disposable battery. For long term, you can have that one pack for life time and easy replace the old aaa battery for cheaper. But depend on the train lego, some will require you more time to take lego apart to pull out the battery AAA battery, recharge it, put back in LEGO train to play with it. VOTE HERE POLL! http://www.poll-maker.com/poll116886x56B946D1-4
  18. Hey there everyone, I'm Joev14, a new guy on the forums. I got myself pretty much all the fall 2013 star wars sets, and have been experimenting with an idea I had, what if it were possible to put working lego electronic lights into a Republic Gunship and AT-TE, without using any modified parts. After much work, I have finally found a way to do lights in both the AT-TE and the Gunship. So without further ado, I present to you, building steps for how to install working unmodified lights into your Republic Gunship. Click the photos to be linked to larger versions of the images. Sorry for the change in lighting throughout the pictures, sometimes the flash from my camera makes it hard to see the separate white parts, so I don't always use it. Step 1: Begin with a standard 75021 Republic Gunship (Mine is slightly modded with orange accents and a few other things, but the base design is still the same) Step 2: Absolutely necessary parts. You will also need a wire of whatever desired length (I recommend the 15-stud long ones), and two of these lights. Step 3: Recommended parts Step 4: Remove any parts that may get in your way, including minifigs inside the hangar. I also recommend removing the wings, although you don't absolutely need to. Step 5: Remove this chunk of the ship. Step 6: Remove the two sides of the upper section of the ship. Step 7: Continue by removing all the above-shown parts. Step 8: Remove the 4 containers. It is your choice whether or not you want to keep them. I chose to turn them into a crate as shown below. Step 9: Canister pod Step 10: Remove these two pieces Step 11: Replace the four openings where the canisters used to be with these four bricks. Also, run a wire from the hanger roof through the opening in front of the handle as shown. Step 12: Place these three plates on the bottom of the battery box. Make sure to put in a 9V battery first, so you don't have to go back and do it later! Step 13: Place the battery box in the space shown. Attach the lead of wire to the battery box (make sure to skip one set of studs, this is crucial). Step 14: Place two of the slopes in front of the wire end, and two small cheese slopes behind the co-pilot. Place 2 L-shaped plates around the wire opening. Step 15: Place two 1x2 plates ontop of the L-shaped ones, then another two L-shaped plates facing in the opposite direction atop those. Finally, place two 1x3 plates ontop, bridging the battery box to the L-shaped plates. Step 16: Place two more 1x3 plates on both sides of the end of the wire. Place two rounded slopes atop them, and finally, place a 2x4 tile on top of the wire end. Step 17: Place two more rounded slopes to cover the wiring. Step 18: Reattach the remaining large sections of the upper part of the ship, excluding the wings. You may fill in the gaps as desired. I intentionally left the 1x4 block area behind the co-pilot exposed so you can still press the button on the battery box. Step 19: Next comes the lights. There is no specific way you have to place them, but I chose to do it in this configuration. With a few red studs, as well as two round trans-orange bricks, I can get the two lamps to light up the whole hangar. Step 20: Above are the parts you should still have remaining, assuming you used the same method I did. Step 21: Reattach the wings and put all your figs back in, your done! Step 22: And boy does it look sweet! What are everyone's thoughts/suggestions for this? The only thing that really seemed to have me stumped was the rounded slopes in front of the handle, I couldn't figure out a sturdier design. While it does hold up, it looks a little awkward with all the obvious spaces between the bricks. I can't figure out a better looking way to do it and still have room for the wire though. Ideas? Facecast Episode discussing these modifications: (skip to 15:20) I will be posting the guide for how to put lights into a 75019 AT-TE soon!
  19. mtrkustoms

    MOC: Yellow Shunting Engine

    Hi all, I present my second train creation in bricks here An invented shunting engine to power my RENFE Bed-car 9600 Series This is not a nice, or real shunting engine, but works well and have enought torque to move the cars without problem. and work in all Lego train curves The motor is a 88002, that have more power that I thought, the tip is to put weight on it to prevent slippage of the wheels. Is full PF with a custom Li-Ion battery (2500mAh in this case) Detail of the custom PF Li-Ion Battery Pulling the Bed-car The No-Conventional coupling A Conventional Old-magnets coupling I hope you enjoy it
  20. Mark Bellis

    Inductive Charging for PF Trains

    I have submitted a new project to LEGO Cuusoo, an inductive charging system for Power Functions trains etc... The idea is that the train would stop over an inductive pad, similar to the ones available for phones etc... but tailored to fit between the rails. It could be placed out of sight in the through-sidings of a fiddle yard so that one train would run while the others charged up. I would like this to become a single LEGO piece similar in size to an IR Receiver i.e. 4x4 with a flying lead. The same coil device would be used under the track and on the train. This is the simplest possible form and probably the cheapest too. I would equip all the sidings in a fiddle yard with coils (perhaps 10 on my layout) and each train (maybe 16), so 26 coils in all. I hope each one would not cost any more than an IR Receiver. It would also have application for Technic and Mindstorms, so making the same piece work in all markets makes it most viable. Please follow the link, support, leave comments and spread the word! Thanks, Mark
  21. Hi, hope it's ok to start a new topic about this but I searched a didn't find a suitable, current thread related solely to trains. The best PF battery threads are several years old now and are mostly geared toward Technic. I'm mulling over whether to get the 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box (US$ 50) or use the 88000 Battery Box (US$ 13 and included in many sets) and then use rechargeable batteries in that. I have a young child so I don't want to use LiPo rechargeables in 88000 (because of possible safety issues) but from what I've read, Lego has protection circuitry built into their 8878 LiPo Rechargeable Battery Box. If I go with the 88000 then those 3rd generation Eneloop NiMH rechargeables seem to be the way to go. I don't really mind swapping out batteries but they only deliver 7.2v. Apparently Lego claims that their 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box delivers 7.4v so that seems to be a selling point but is it noticeable in any way? What are your thoughts on this? What do you use for your PF trains? Do you use both 8878 and 88000 with NiMH rechargeables and do you notice any performance differences between the two? Personally I'm not planning on having any monster-long trains or hills but who knows what the future has in store? Ok, thanks in advance, Joe
  22. Hello everyone at eurobricks! I'm new in this forum. I decided to open an account, so I can share my simple mod. About two years ago I got the Motorized Excavator 8043. The model is awesome, I think it has been one of the most beautiful and complete sets. Since the model needs 6 batteries, I decided to use Ni-MH rechargeable batteries. The only problem is that this kind of batteries provide only 1.2 Volts, therefore, the PF battery pack only achieves 7.2 volts with 6 batteries, instead of the 9 required (and provided by 6 alcaline batteries). I don't want to spend money on disposable expensive batteries. I decided to look for a way to use 8 batteries and provide 9.6 Volts Long ago I found a mod where the user used a standard battery pack. I can't found the post to thank the guy who did it. Here's what I used: 2x Battery Holder 4xAA 2x 9V Battery Clip 8x 1.2 Volt Rechargeable Batteries 1x Switch (I didnt connected it, but you can) Wiring: -You can use a PF cable to do this (Search in the forum/web there are lots of tutorials). -OR you can canibalize the original battery box (PF extension wire is not available in my country D: ) I won't write, since the images explain it clearly: Wiring Diagram por Teleing, en Flickr Connection diagram por Teleing, en Flickr Use a bit of glue por Teleing, en Flickr Overview por Teleing, en Flickr Modifications on the Excavator: From book 1, page 61: Replace Steps 4~8 For the following: New Step por Teleing, en Flickr (You can take the black piece from the spare parts included in the model) With this we can allow the battery pack to have enough space in the excavator. Now it's pretty simple, you connect the battery box and take it in place: I used the grey part to hold the wires in place I also did a little review of the improvements between 7.2 and 9.6 V: 8043test.txt The general improvement was about 30%, You can see immediately the excavator is faster, lifting the boom, rotating, etc. AND, the gear switch moves smoothly. FULL GALLERY http://www.flickr.com/photos/teleing/ Thanks for reading, hope my work is useful to you.