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Found 198 results

  1. Hi all! My new model - is realisation in Lego - off-road custom based on the legendary american SUV - Jeep Cherokee (XJ). Everything according to the canons - axles, a rear differential lock, winch, snorkel, fenders, footrests, thick-walled pipe bumpers, an expeditionary trunk, chandelier and big wheels.
  2. Hey, Eurobricks! In this post I want to tell you about one of my latest MOCs, called Blue Mamba. It was made for outdoor King of the Hammers competition. Unlikely I was not able to participate in the competition this year, but I am not disappointed because it is very fun to drive this car. Main features 4-wheel drive In-axe motors (one PF L-motor for each wheel) 2 x Buwizz 3.0 units for power RC tires 97 mm Bodywork The race vehicles used at the King of the Hammers are known as Ultra 4 vehicles. This Ultra4 class is unlimited 4400, and every vehicle is custom fabricated by each team. Most of the vehicle made with metal tubular frame and plastic body panels. I tried to replicate the bodywork to match the real prototypes. Black pieces imitate a tubular frame of the car. Side panels and the hood are the structural elements of the chassis. The total weight of the car is about 1,280 grams. Half of the weight (4x PF L-motors) is located in axes, this is not good for the dynamics of the car at big speeds, but helps a lot in trial. Steering motor and Buwizz units are located in the cockpit. It is possible to lower them, so there is a reason to revisit the chassis once again. Suspension The rial race combines desert racing and rock crawling. So the Lego version of the race combines high-speed and trial sections. For good performance in trial Blue Mamba has a free articulation of a rear axe. The string are placed on the middle link, so rear axe can suspend jumps. Front axe has a limited articulation for a good control at high speed. Drivetrian Ultra4 vehicles has both powerful engine and the gearbox which allows to drive fast on straight lines and slow on rock-crawling segments. But Lego gearboxes has a significant disadvantage - a huge loss of torque. So I decide to place the motors in axes. This gives nearly zero losses, but has it`s own disadvantage: an extremal load on the CV joints which connects front motors to the wheel hubs. There is no way to deal with in without widening the wheel base and adding the portal reduction.. I hope some day Lego will make a new hubs that connects to new CV joints (without planetary reduction). In-axe motor placement provides some restrictions to the size of axes. I tried to maximize the ground clearance. Big wheels partially solve the problem. The resulting ground clearance in not big as one the cars with portal hubs has, but it is comparable to the ground clearance of cars with front independent suspension (there were several competitors with such configuration). Also it is worth noting that front and rear axes does not stick out from the side profile of the wheels, so Blue Mamba has great approach and decent angles. Control and Power The car is powered by two Buwizz 3.0 units. Powerful lego cars usually have a big problem. They can not go on a full speed for a continuous time since the driving motors consume a lot of power. I build many cars powered Buwizz 3.0 units. And I noticed that 2 Buwizz motors or 4 PF L-motors consume more power then the battery can give (in continuous drive). A good example of a car with 4 L-motors and 1 Buwizz unit is my Jeep Wrangler. To deal this problem, I places two units in the Blue Mamba. This doubles the travel range of the car and allows to drive Blue Mamba on full speed during the race. But multiple tests show that 1 Buwizz unit is enough for this car, since there are no losses in the transmission (in the first video car is powered by a single Buwizz unit). For steering a C+ L-motor is used. It is placed in a cockpit in between Buwizz units. Small scrab-radius, positive caster angle and proportional steering provide a good control of a car. Summary The competition has passed, and I there is a video on youtube: This allows me to compare my car with the other competitor cars. I would not win the race but perform good. I will look for the next King of the Hammers competition and prepare Blue Mamba to it. The following changes will be made: Buwizz units will be replaced with RC electrics The cockpit will be lowered for few studs The wheel base will be lengthened for 4-6 studs (to prevent the car from flips at high stairs in trial) I made a 3D model of Blue Mamba, but I have no motivation for making PDF instructions since Rebrickable does not work for me nowadays... Hope everything will be changed soon! Now we can only wait and play Lego!
  3. When I first saw the 42139 set, I knew I had to get one. From the functionality aspect, the set for the relatively small price tag has a lot to offer, and it's an amazing parts donor as well. But I believe that I wasn't the only one that thought the 6 wheel ATV is quite an unconventional vehicle and it would look rather cool to see this as a more common 4x4 quadbike. So I made an alternate / mod that turns this into more classic looking quad. The front and middle part of the build remains almost unchanged (switched 7 long beams from white to orange to make better looking rear mudguards), also there is an extra part at the front to secure the winch hook. Almost no changes means that the functionality remains the same: winch steering Suspension 2 speed gearbox Working cylinders The cargo box on the back is fixed, so the dumping bed mechanism has been removed. To compensate for this there is a place to attach a trailer. Leftover parts are a great source material for the trailer itself, sadly no pins were left to make a proper trailer to complement the quad bike. Oh, and the best part is that it's still possible to assemble the chainsaw If anyone is interested. building instructions are available at REBRICKABLE Cheers!
  4. Hello everyone! I have been lazy in the last two months with making new posts... But today I would like to snow you my DEEP MOD of a Lego 42099 set. This project was build in September of 2021, so it was build tested, improved and disassembled quite some time ago . Features: Original body of 42099 with custom RC chassis 4-wheel drive independent suspension with positive caster of all 4 wheels Double steering arms (for stability in jumps and bumps) Ackerman steering geometry with minimized stress on the joints 2 x Buwizz motors for propulsion C+ L-motor for steering 2 x Buwizz 3.0 for power (one unit is enought but I used two for longer driving distance) Total mass ~1,2 kg Planetary hubs, and fast output of Buwizz motors provides a lot of torque and a decent speed The beginning of the project Last summer I build myself a Red coupe. It was a good car, which is cool to drive. But,.. It was not adapted for the Russian roads . After several bumps and crashes, I decided to build a car that will overcome all obstacles on the road. So I started a new project, and all the circumstances (which will be shown later) strongly influenced the outcome! Then I was building a Red Coupe, I needed more red parts, so I bought two Ducati 42107 sets. I got charmed by new motorcycle wheels (i was dreaming of a car with such wheels)! The motorcycle wheels are light and have big diameter, that is important on the bumpy roads, so the wheels for my project were found. Also, at the very beginning of September I bought myself a 42099 set and I wanted to improve it with my new Buwizz motors. With 42099 I get planetary hubs which I desired to test from the time of their appearance, so all the choices was made! Underlying Ideas The main goal was to make a car with buggy motors (Buwizz motors) and a strong suspension. Also I waned to use planetary hubs since the original 42099 car has them. I have already learned that to be able to control a fast car, you need a well-designed steering system. As a minimum it should have a positive caster, and the double steering arms will also strengthen the steering system at the bumps.The main question for me was the following: Should I try myself in building front wheels drive, or not? Red Coupe project give me quite some experience in building solid suspension with positive caster: with steering at the front and with drive motors (without steering) at the back, but I never build a front wheels drive with positive caster and Ackerman steering geometry! My head was troubled with a problem: How can one fit differential and steering rack and a "broken car frame" (for castor) in between front wheels? Well, after a month of thinking, and multiple unsuccessful attempts, I found the solution. The idea was to make a horizontal car frame with suspension arms angled! My build is a little bit "illegal" since it uses the right triangle with side lengths 4,4,1, but it totally works with admissible Lego flexibility (an axle in a pinhole can wobble a bit). The steering motor and a steering rack was placed over the differential. The last problem it the project was with front joints. I waned to minimize the stress from the suspension travel and the steering. Since the car frame was build horizontal while the suspension arms were build at the positive angle, it was impossible to make the drive shaft lined with suspension arms... I placed the output of the differential a bit further to the front of the car, so the drive shaft was going a bit backwards from the differentials to the wheel hubs. This trick allowed me to make an Ackerman geometry without limiting the steering angle (in order to keep the front joints alive). After I overcome all the problems with the front wheels drive, the rest of the car was build by one evening! The drive shaft I used the fast outputs of Buwizz motors (one motor for front and the back). After that i speed them up with 20:12 ratio and connect to the differentials (20:28). Finally, planetary hubs slow the speed by 5.5 times.... Planetary hubs allowed me to have a bigger steering angle, but they slowed the car dramatically ;-) Although the max speed is good: ~7 km/h, so it is quite fan to drive the car during a wak in the park. 4x4 drive and proper suspension with good ground clearance (comparing to the Red coupe) make the driving experience very relaxing: no worrying about the bumps on the road! I can prove my words with a short video: Conclusion As a conclusion, I can say, that this project was very challenging for me, but the result is very satisfying: I really enjoyed driving it around my neighborhood. The main drawback of the model is that the Buggy motors uses too much power, and most of this power transforms into torque, and the car has way way more torque it will ever need!
  5. nunofilipe72

    [MOC] Big 4x4

    Enthusiastic about the suspension of the Octan Racing T1+ I thought about making a rigid axle for a Dakar truck But somewere things "changed" a little and finished with a "redneck" style 4x4
  6. Hello everyone! I know, that Christmas has passed, but i think it is not the reason to wait for the next one to show my new car. It is build on the same Chassis as my Jeep Wrangler [trial mod] Features: 4 wheel drive with locked differentials live axles suspension with 9.5 L shocks 4-wheel steering 120 mm RC tires with high grip 4x PF L-motors for propulsion PU L-motor for steering Buwizz 3.0 for power light tubular bodywork 1.15 kg of total mass (wheels are heavy!) 7 studs of ground clearance I would like to note, that this car is not a proper rock crawler due to the limited suspension travel. All this modifications took about 2-hours of build, but the car give a lot of satisfaction driving in the snow. It is capable for driving in the deep snow and climbing steep icy hills! I conclude, that this project is 100% successful! Hope you like it!
  7. Greetings, ladies and gentlemen! I'm glad to introduce you a modification of @Didumos69 Greyhound buggy Yeah, "Mad Max" inspired vehicle again First idea was just "increase durability and add some crawler abilities", but result exceed all my expectations. Adding planetary gear reduction 4:1 to all wheels increase offroad capabilities to sky high (keeping in mind perfectly working suspension of original) And final step - I decide to prepare for summer offroad Lego event in Moscow and for future festival, so I reworked exterior in postapocalyptic style. Other photos Here is LDD model of front hub with planetary gear reduction I used in my modification. Rear hub is done similarly, except for black connectors to suspension arms and without U-joint. Bonus: video from "King of the Hammers" race event in Moscow and photo from "Summer Brick" Lego festival in Taganrog, Russia Thanks to @Didumos69 for his amazing buggy and instructions, and also to @Shurik & @VerSen for cool photos! Hope you like this rusty piece of metal!
  8. Hello everyone, let me introduce my latest creation. Ever since I get 42093 corvette I had an idea to disassemble it and use all this parts to create something playable and offroad capable. This 1:15 model of legendary F-150 truck was made with Power Functions elements and Sbrick for future truck trial competion or just for indoor fun (because of the weight (1250 g) I think this is not very competitive truck). It was a long project for me because of time constraints so I had started it before LEGO release their bigger one. This model has 4WD transmission with 2 L-motors driving each axle separetly (driving ratio - 3,5:1), servo motor for steering. Front suspension is independent double wishbone, rear is live axle with panara link. The model has openable doors, sunroof, hood and tailgate. Instructions in pdf were made in Stud io (my first experience with this software so it took a long time). Link for instructions: Also I created some additional color options with available parts. I hope to add instructions for those and the video with the orignal orange one later.
  9. Hello everyone! Today I want to tell you about one of my latest MOCs. This model is build on the same chassis as my Jeep Wrangler. So it has a very close technical characteristics: Features: Universal chassis Live axle 4-link suspension 4 wheel drive 4x PF L-motors for propulsion (2 for each axle) PU L-motor for steering Ackerman steering geometry (not that essential for off-roader ) Buwizz 3.0 for power 1.4 kg of total mass, well-balanced >80% of parts are taken from 42069 set (except motors, new joints and few more pieces...) RC tires 90 mm I build this pickup for several reasons: I love pickups, especially Mitsubishi L200, this car has the best body, that tells about the speed and off-road capabilities of the car. I wanted to make a brother to my Jeep Wrangler. This will allow me to drive with my friend. I really like purple color from 42069 set I wanted to work on the chassis of Jeep Wrangler without disassembling it. RC tires has good proportions and give a lot of inspiration to me. For me the development of a car begins with the choice of its wheels. Beat any possible motorization of Ford Raptor (original chassis of raptor is only RWD and very weak for RC!) This car has modified chassis from Jeep Wrangler. I made several optimizations. You can compare it with chassis of RC cars - they have the same principles! Again this car has a good suspension with 9.5L shocks. While I was developing a body for a car I tried to hide wheels under the fenders. You can see on the pictures below that wheels can "hide" under fenders when suspension compress. Poor little 42069: The best thing about this car, is that it can drive really well! The playability is great! Here are several short videos with Purple Pickup: I want to make the instruction for this car as it was made for Jeep Wrangler. But it will take me quite some time, so be patient!
  10. Hi folks, I'm happy to introduce my alternate build from the official set 42126 Ford F-150 Raptor, the Unimog (UniMOC) U1400 with Snowplow attachment. As the little brother of 8110 Unimog U400, this model in 1:17 scale uses 1264 parts of the inventory from the set 42126 Ford F-150 Raptor and 2 spare parts included in the set with a total of 1266 parts. Having the set 42126 Ford F-150 Raptor, all parts are available to build this alternate model and no other parts from other sets are required. The two spare parts from 42126 to build this Unimog U1400 alternate are: Instructions are available on rebrickable Follow this link to my page for more content Functions & Features HoG-steering independent suspension in front and back working 4-piston engine under the hood openable doors detailed interior openable hood to reveal engine attachment for Snowplow, moveable in high and tilting angle fully closed tipper bed with openable lid and lock additional snow shovel 40cm x 20cm x 18cm Impressions Sticker The model 42126 Ford F-150 Raptor uses many sticker for the lights in front and back, which are reused in this Unimog U1400. The images above shows some custom sticker, which are not part of the 42126 model and not mandatory to build this alternate Unimog U1400. Those custom sticker are optional and only used for better and more realistic look. If you have the ability to print custom sticker, feel free to do to polish up this model. Below this is how the front of the model looks like without any custom sticker, but with the original headlights of the Raptor... ...and without any sticker, for custom headlights for example. Instructions The premium instructions with high quality images as usual comes with 254 pages for a challenging but satisfying building experience. For a 18+ set, this alternate model is not more difficult to build than the Raptor. The instructions are available at Rebrickable. Here are some example pages of the instructions: Unimog U1400 in real Have fun with this replica of Unimog U1400 alternate build and feel free to build and discuss. I know this model is not 4x4 and it can't be 'cause the Raptor is not 4x4 and there are no parts in 42126 to do that.
  11. Hi, Here is my take on rock crawlers – I present to you an unstoppable and fully customizable rock crawler: „Hornet”! I called it unstoppable and fully customizable not without a reason. You can find out why in the video and in extensive list of features, details and links below the video. Instructions can be found HERE, they are free of charge, I hope many of you will be able to build it and have fun playing with it outdoors as I did. Without further talk, please enjoy the video! Details and main functions: • dimensions LxWxH: 36x22.5x19.5 cm • weight: 1.55 kg • 4x4 drive (3xL motors) • steering (M motor) • live axle suspension, front and rear • openable doors • easy removing the whole body with locks hidden in bumpers • it fits Lego Technic Figure Configuration options: 1. Drive and steering • Power version: 3xL PF motors for drive and M PF motor for steering front axle • Agile version: 2xL PF motors for drive and 2xM PF motors for steering on both axles 2. Body • „Hornet” – default body, more build-up, with opening doors • „Red Ant” – alternative body, more open one, 25% lighter than „Hornet” body 3. Suspension • Four independent, clearly visible mounting points available for each shock absorber • Multiple mounting points allow to configure four parameters of the suspension and the whole MOC: - suspension stiffness (from soft to hard) - suspension travel (from long to short) - body height (from low to high) - body style (from rock crawler to monster truck) • suspension can use both long and short shock absorbers Other features (which you may or may not spot on the video): • both bodies are equipped with two seat simple interior with steering wheel and some minor details • both available bodies are prepared in a way to avoid visibility of blue pins • frame is also prepared in a way to avoid blue pins • blue pins in frame are used mostly to high light mounting points for suspension and point out the front of the frame • frame prepared to be allow easy pairing with any new bodies • frame is equipped with simple cable management to avoid damaging motor cables during off-roading • changing connections of shock absorbers to the frame is fast and easy • MOC can be easy carry on both via body or accessable handle at the bottom of the frame • center of the mass is located at the center of the MOC • center of the mass is located low, most of the weight is present in axles • drive doesn't use differentials to maximize off-road capabilities • both axles are secured with panels to protect axles and drivetrain against any dangerous objects (grass, rocks, etc) • high ground clearance for both axles even with using planetary hubs • L motors are connected to planetary hubs without any reduction – this provides both speed and necessary torque • approach angle is 90 degrees, front and rear More photos you can find HERE
  12. Mini Truck Model 8, Jeep Wrangler 1:15.No play Lego in over half a year, now 'Jeep' coming...At the same time,I would pay respects to Madoca.L motor +new wheel hubs, BuWizz normal.Infomations:L28xW14.5xH15cm, Weight: 970G,Still, simple and good playability, like RC, like real Jeep. instructions for free:, again! Trial video This chassis part was built last year.
  13. I present to you my Lego Technic Chilli Crawler! This is a complete makeover and overall improvement from my previous Carrot Crawler: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=112037 Yes, I know. This is the second crawler that I named after a vegetable; expect more! Features: - Triangulated 4-link live axle suspension using 4 soft, black shocks. - 4x4 with one PF XL motor mounted parallel* to each of the two axles. A final gear ratio of 1:5.001, yes this may seem slow, but the enormous Super Swamper tires make up for it. - Speaking of that, 4 RC4WD Super Swamper tires. No, they are not Lego, I got them from a nearby hobby shop. - One L-motor for steering in the front axle, geared down via worm gear to 8 tooth gear, then a 12 tooth gear to a 40 tooth gear. The 40 tooth gear drives another 12 tooth gear that moves a 13L gear rack. - Portal hubs for all four wheels. Standard Lego Unimog for the rear axle for rigidity; custom triangular plate portal hubs on front axle for a steering pivot point closer to the center of the tire. - Good articulation, about ~55-60 degrees. - Controlled with an SBrick. - Powered by a Lego rechargeable LiPo battery. - Green Chilli Stem** * The mounting of the drive motors parallel to the axles was a must for this crawler. By doing so, I have not only eliminated gear slippage as there are no perpendicular gears, but there is also a ton more ground clearance in both the front and rear axle. The rear axle especially as the motor is actually on TOP of the axle. Crazy, huh? ** Makes the crawler look so much cooler. Challenges: - As with all 4-link suspension setups, the mounting and placement of both the links and the shock absorbers proved to be a rather annoying, tedious part of the process. I have, however, managed to make a VERY rigid triangulated setup where the shocks are not bent or warped in any way. - The mounting of the two lower links on the front axle was also difficult as there was virtually nowhere I could mount these links onto. I was able to (somehow) securely mount both the lower links and the shocks of the front axle onto 7L and 9L beams on either side of the motor. - Mounting the motors parallel to the axles proved to be hard, but actually somewhat straightforward when it came to the rear axle. I had been so used to having drive axles perpendicular to the axle like on my previous crawler. The mounting of the front drive motor was difficult in the fact that its power is transmitted through various gears and the motor itself is connected to the axle by two plate beams and a pin or two. Although the front drive motor is still not completely rigid, I have had no problems with gear slippage whatsoever in either axle. Some pictures: And finally, here is the youtube video: I welcome any suggestions or comments you may have. I will, however, say in advance that I DO NOT plan on making a body for this crawler as I designed it for performance purposes mostly, a Lego "comp-crawler" as you may call it. Thanks, pt
  14. Here's my replication of the classic Range Rover 3 door Info: Scale: 1:13 Size: L35, W15, H16, cm Weight: 1069g Parts: 1085. Video: Features: - 4x4 - Dependent suspension - Panhard rods on both axles - Opening doors, bonnet, tailgate - Adjustable seats - Modular construction - Remote control with PF: 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo. Original truck: Building Instruction can be found on Rebrickable:
  15. Hi, I would like to present my newest MOC. It is off-roader with look based on UAZ 3151 and equipped with functions available in off-road game Snowrunner. Main functions and some details are listed below. If anybody is interested with some more technical detailes (and I believe there are people here, which are more focused on technical aspects of the MOC rather than the look), which are hard to show in short video, then I encourage you to scroll down, below photos. If not, then I believe that video and some photos should serve just fine. I also added short video to present couple of tests of Uaz frame and powertrain. Instructions will be available in the future :) Details and main functions: scale 1:10,5 dimensions LxWxH: 38x16.5x18.5 cm weight: 2.44 kg (without additions) 4x4 drive (2xL motors) steering with ackermann geometry (servo motor) adjustable height of suspension for both axles (M motor) lockable differentials on both axles (mechanism without pneumatic, secured with clutch, M motor) live axle suspension, front and rear working inline four piston engine with fan and detailed engine bay lights: front, rear, roof - controlled by manual hidden switch openable hood (with support rod), trunk, four doors locks in all doors and trunk working steering wheel with realistic number of turns and with adjustable position easy removing the whole body easy change to version with or without the roof adjustable front seats - leaning and moving back and forward split rear seats with folding backrest to increase trunk capacity openable glove box easy access to battery pack for replacement Instructions: More photos: Drive I designed the drive to be balanced between speed and torque. Main idea was to make drivetrain strong and reliable. I used the strongest differentials, new reinforced CV joints and bevel gears whenever possible. What is more I tried to keep high speed – low torque rule as long as possible when designing the drive train. As the result, the biggest reduction is placed on axles – on differentials. Thanks to that and reinforced construction you will stall 2 L motor rather than hear some gear slipping. Look In case of look, I keep in mind to avoid blue pins whenever possible, keep nice, clean one colour chassis which can be seen underneath and focus on small details, both inside and outside. Also you will not see many holes in the body or ugly cables, despite the fact that there are 5 lego LEDs there. What is more, all lights, along with the switch are integrated into one piece removable body and can be easy removed only by disconnecting single cable. Performance The plan was to make it very capable when off roading. And it is, when you remove the body. The look and those many details and manual features, all related to the body come with obvious price – weight. UAZ weights 2435g in basic configuration, but only the body itself weights 855g. So if resign from features, which are related stricte to the body and replace the body with some light weight one, then you will get very capable machine. But even with the body, thanks to drive train design, off-road capabilies of UAZ are pritty decent, as showed on the video. If you have more questions, do not hesitate to ask. And keep MOCing! :)
  16. Hello there! American all-wheel drive pickup from GMC. The model is built as a continuation of the Chevy K30 Big Dooley published in 2019. Of the main differences - the muzzle of an earlier generation, a shorter base, the design of the frame and bridges was changed. Planetary hubs and CV joints are used in driveshafts from 42099. Drive - for each axle by L motor. Steering - M motor, Power - BuWizz, a canister with gasoline in the back, spare wheel, shovel and a box of lemonade More photos
  17. Sometimes you just want to plow through the snow in style, without bothering yourself with complex drivetrains, steering systems and whatnot (totally not being lazy here ;) ):
  18. Mini Truck Model 7, Pinzgauer 710. 1/14.I’m used to calling it,‘little Tatar’.full suspension Tatra-type,Truck Trial Model. L motor x2 +new wheel hubs, Servo motor x1.Infomation: W16 x L32 x H17 cm. Simple and good playability, I hope you'll like it. Instructions for free
  19. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! Chevrolet K10 Silverado 1985 Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: Join my group in VK: All photos on the link: Trailer: - Platform lift - Working ramps - Retractable front wheel
  20. After completion and playing with the Leopard for a few months, I noticed the model had a few shortcomings which I wanted to eliminate with this version. These include: Suspension oscilations at high torque High center of gravity Instability on rough terrain at high speeds Most of these issues were due to the usage of the torque tube suspension which is simply too heavy and unresponsive at high speeds. What I needed was to replace the live axle suspension with independent suspension while keeping the articulation needed for offroading. Here's what I came up with: Let's break down the suspension to it's basic components to better understand how it works: Colored green are the main shock absorbers. These caryy most of the wight and provide a high suspension travel Colored orange are the gearbox transfer arms which fix each perpendicular gearbox firmly to the suspension, thereby reducing friction and fixing the U joints to keep them from popping out. Colored black are the side beams which help guide the transfer arms and hold the suspension together Colored in red and gray are the two independent drivelines powering the wheels. Finally in transparent, the suspension arms are made as long as possible for maximum suspension travel. I built the first version with this setup, but soon discovred a flaw. The torque from the drivelines would push the suspension arms down, causing the suspension to stop responding (indicated with red and grey arrows in photo above). In order to solve this problem I added the suspension bridge above, colored in pruple. The suspension bridge performs the following functions: Compensation of the driveline torque Supports 20% of the model's weight Improves articulation when going over rough terrain With the suspension solved, I turned my attention to the chassis. I wanted a model with high torque and high speed. To achieve that I installed a two speed gearbox for each independent driveline powered by a total of 4 RC motors: Finally a very sturdy chassis based on frames was built to support the model. Each axle was given it's own independent steering with servo motor and each driveline has an M motor for switching gears. This redundacy means that even if half of the model breaks down, it can still drive back home. Next step was building the model in real life. Thanks to ForwART's custom stickers the exterrior really came to life: The doors can be opened, revelaing two seats and the steering wheel: Each wheel has over 6 cm of wheel travel, allowing the Tiger extreme articulation rivaling live axle setups: And let's not forget the most important photo of them all: Finally, since there is only so much I can tell in words, enjoy the video experience: As usual the LDD file of the model is available by clicking the photo or link below: 4x4x4.lxf To summarize, compared to the previous Leopard, the Tiger has the following improvements: Improved stability due to the independent suspension and low chassis Higher top speed due to the gearboxes Eliminated suspension oscilation Improved performance at high speed thanks to lighter and more responsive independent suspension Improved maneuverability thanks to all wheel steering Sadly there are also a few drawbacks which I plan to fix in the future version: When pushing the model hard in Ludicrous mode and in low gear the 12 tooth bewel gears can get damaged and need to be replaced Low steering angle (18 degrees) Because only one servo motor is used per axle, steering is more prone to be bumped out of center.
  21. - 4x4 - Spring shocks suspension at the front - Leaf springs at the rear - Opening doors with locks, bonnet, tailgate - Removable body - 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo ***
  22. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! But this time I have prepared something special! Meet the Chevrolet K10 Silverado!!! Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: Join my group in VK: All photos on the link: For the first time I used the construction of the chassis separately from the body, that is, the body can be easily removed and any other body can be built on the chassis.
  23. Hello everyone! It has been a while since I last posted on this forum. In November I tripped to Russia again for participating LEGO event held in Moscow. This year, my friend Rm8 gave me the opportunity to make video review of my models together at his studio. You might have seen the review of Jeep Wranglers. And this is the other model that I first had a presentation to Russian builders in the event. Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Weight: 1520g -XL motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for front winch -M motor for two speed gearbox and center/rear differential lock -LEDs for front and rear lights Everything started from the issue of center differential in the drivetrain of my previous Pickup. After driving on serious off-road I found that bevel gears in center differential got damaged and often slipped. So I tried to find the way to reinforce gear meshing in 4L differential. In conclusion, I still have not succeeded. Every attempt was not strong enough for transmitting the torque of geared down (3:1) XL motor. In extreme situation floating fourth bevel gear was pushed out by the force of twisting differential housing. I was even hoping new red 4L differential could hold four bevel gears tightly in it, but it does not. So I used the second one in the picture above. (just insert 1L technic brick for holding both side of axles tighter) While attempting several ideas of transmission, I was building another 4x4 model using three differentials. Eventually it became the most advanced version of my SUV models yet being over complex and less reliable. The main feature is sequentially working gearbox and diff lock system. I used Didumos69's Compact 90 degree stepper idea for switching four modes. (0→1→2→3→0 ...) 0: high gear 1: low gear 2: low gear with center diff lock 3: low gear with center/rear diff lock You can see it working in the second half of this video filmed by Rm8. I used M motor instead of Servo motor for switching modes because there was no space for it under the driver's seat. It is necessary to stop motor rotation when stepper axle comes to the right position. Actually this model is too heavy for real off road driving. Center differential often suffered the load, and it was a little bit tricky to operate sequential mechanism precisely from a distance. So I built a lighter and simplified version only using XL and Servo motor. It has softer rear suspension, manual gearbox and center/rear limited slip differential. (Weight: 1260g) Ironically it worked better than fully equipped version even lacking diff lock system. Thanks to soft suspension it has better axle articulation. All four tires well kept contact with the ground. I put it on rocky surface just for taking pictures. Actually it could not climb over those rocks, though. I am making building instructions for both versions. I hope you will like it!
  24. Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon.
  25. Hi guys! I'd start saying this thread is more to ask you some suggestions than to show you the model itself :P I think i already told you that the shop wich is sponsoring me asked me to build something that they can sell as a custom model right? At first, they wanted the fiat panda i made last year but i wasn't satisfied by it due to its untidyness... so i made something that i think it's better and wich performs better than every expectations i had As it's made to be sold (hopefully) i couldn't call it with the real counterpart name....but i think it should be quite clear where i took inspiration from :P it's really simple and it's made trying to use the less amount of pieces possible to keep everything clean and tidy performances are really good, even if the most of the weight is in the back of it, it crawls really good having some nice ground clearance and good speed as well! i don't know how many of you could be interested in buying something like this as many of you are great reverse engineers :P but let's say you have the chance to buy a custom model, how would you prefer it? i mean, do you think i should make it with motors or just ready to be motorized? what else could i change to make it more attractive? should i add more functions or just stay on "less is more" concept? ill wait for your suggestions guys! in the meanwhile have a look at some pictures of it! hope you'll like it :)