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I have decided to put together this thread for those of you who are wondering how to get inside and potentially fix your old 12V signal switch. This I think was the first incarnation of the switch, with coil like wiring and round sockets - not the later triangular The hardest part is removing the 2 x 8 studded piece from the top of the unit. You have to break the chemical welds that are in the six places shown in the picture. There is a slight groove around the whole outside edge of the 2 x 8, in the part that looks similar to a 2 x 8 plate. I was 12 when I did this so finesse was not high priority. I would suggest using a sharp blade and running it around the groove, then trying to pries it off. I haven’t tried this, but maybe drill a hole in each top corner of the bottom of the unit and use a tool to push the top off. I’d drill in the center of each of the stud locking corner circle(see blue circles on underneath photo and bear in mind that the circles are just off pic) With that done you need to flip it over and insert a small screwdriver into each of the three rectangular holes to un-clip the buttons. Don’t lose the springs! Operation: When the red ‘stop’ button(S2) is pressed, S2.1 is raised to connect with the negative(P-) rail. S1.3 remains connected to the positive(P+) rail, giving + on C3 and – on C2 to power the red LED. C4 and 5 are open circuit at this time – stopping the train, and C1 is not used. When the green ‘go’ button(S1.1&1.2), S1.3 is raised to connect with the negative(P-) rail. S2 remain connected to the positive(P+) rail, giving - on C3 and + on C2 to power the green LED. With S1.1 depressed, C4 & 5 are connected and the train moves! If you break any of the button clips then you can MEK/melt or glue another piece of plastic to repair it – see pictures. I have some other good tutorials here at Eurobricks on using MEK to solvent weld ogeL. If your button does not stay down then the little plastic nipple has come off of the bottom of the tube that the button spring sits in. A piece of wire twisted around and partially melted in at the sides was my 12 year old minds idea of a fix. Today I would use MEK to weld a new piece on. If you have any broken coils, if they are only in one place per coil, then place both ends side by side overlapping the coils by around 4-5 turns of the coil and press together. Good luck!