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Showing results for tags 'track'.
Found 57 results
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I am just to embark on a new Power functions layout and would love to see all your home creations, setup and layouts
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It's been a while since I've been "in the loop" unfortunately living in Canada has its disadvantages, one being that you cannot find a single soul to talk about lego 12V trains with. I've built some decent sized layouts. Right now, I have a pair of layouts that appear to be connected but aren't. They share the 7866 level cross-over track, but never actually connect via track. I've got a couple of questions. Right now, I have 3 motors, and 3 trains, and two Transformers (I also have an Austrailian one if anyone wants to buy it, I have no idea where to get a converter for it!!?!?). I have somewhere in the neighbourhood of 9 switches, unfortunately only two or three that have power to them. I'm wondering: 1.) Can I use multiple transformer on shared track - I'm assuming no? 2.) Specific instructions to boost power to the tracks, I once had a huge layout and so many issues with trains slowing down because of the shear length of the thing. What's safe, obviously these motors are getting harder and harder to come by, so I don't want to damage one. I use 110 -> 220 inverters for both Transformers. In Summary: "Mono" means one, and "rail" means rail: This concludes your monorail training. Thanks all!
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With the hubless wheel post in the back of my mind and some 56x28 ZR Street tires on my table next to some old-style track links, something clicked in my head. 22 of the track links fit perfectly in the 56x28 tires. More interestingly, if you put 4L tiles or plates on alternating links, they also fit the inside of the Unimog tire. Of course you'll need more than 22 - probably between 40 and 50 - to fill the Unimog tire. The tracks can be driven by spur gears, so you could make a planetary reduction hub which could also be a portal hub. I don't plan to make any large trucks any time soon, but figured I'd post this in case it's useful to those who build trial trucks and other large vehicles. -
Hello, I always wondered if this was possible after reading about Chris Meyer's 9v backward compatibility for new plastic track. I haven't seen other posts about this; am I really the first to have tried it? I can't believe that. Nothing fancy, just copper tape on the rails: It's only a rudimentary test (having moved, I don't have a 9v train motor on hand right now), but it seems quite promising. Wide curves, anyone?
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Info about track treads and wheels
Doc_Brown posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi Everyone. Just wondering what rims or wheels fit nicely into the newer large track pieces. I have tried all newer rims (for tires 86mm and 94mm) and they don't sit well, and was wondering if any older ones work better? In particular could anyone test if (Wheel 43.2 x 28 Balloon Small) would work? Thanks in advance! -
Hey! I just worked up my first Lego layout with Blue Brick, and I was hoping to get some comments and suggestions from some of you. I have a little free time on my hands here presently while we move back to the U.S., so I'm trying to use the time constructively. I'm not real sure of the exact dimensions of the space we'll have, but this layout should more-or-less fit into a medium-sized home's basement, don't you think? What do you think of the size of the layout, does it look too big or small? I think it strikes a good balance between being a decent-sized layout that's big enough to hold what I've got (plus a little room for expansion) without being grounds for divorce. Our son is only three, so I've tried to keep it as accessible as possible from all angles. I'm thinking of making the tables modular, so I can always add in another table in the future when/if we run out of room with this design. I mostly used the 3" x 3" tables in Blue Brick (and added on 1" x 3" tables for the harbor which was something of an afterthought). The table size isn't set into stone. One of my main questions is about the two crossovers between the two main lines. Is there a prettier way to do it? Do I need to get my hacksaw out and cut the switches they presently sell? I'm using PF track so I won't be using the 9V switch tracks with the shorter diverging track, unfortunately. Also, I won't be spending the crazy money that 7996 (Train Rail Crossing) is getting. It's a pity that Lego doesn't sell 7996 any longer as it's a very elegant solution, and I'm also more than a little bummed about the way they package the road baseplates. I won't be purchasing them unfortunately. Guess I'll have to find the time to build my own. Ok, well, thanks in advance for your input. Feel free to post graphics of your layout in this thread as I'd love to see what others have come up with. Oh, for the record; this is the parts list: 4x Right Switches 9x Left Switches 192x Straight Track 43x Curve Track 60x 48x48 Grey Baseplates 13x 32x32 Blue Baseplates and a handful of Flex-track Joe
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Hi guys, I can't find some PF Tracks in Bricksmith / LDraw inventory list. Parts should be: Flexible Segment Curve Double Crossover Straight Left Switch Right Switch Bricksmith has only the Flexible Segment. I know that 9V Curved and Straight tracks should be ok, so I can use them. But I can't find double crossover and switches. Any suggestions? Thanks.
