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Found 9 results

  1. ilyabuilder724

    [MOC] Suzuki Smile Wagon R

    My new 6 stud wide Speed Champions scaled Kei car! This time i wanted to build a modern Kei Van instead of a sporty Kei Car and decided to build a Suzuki Smile VIDEO REVIEW:
  2. ilyabuilder724

    Speed Champions Scaled Suzuki Cappuccino

    New moc of somehow forgotten japanese car. Some info about the car from Wikipedia. FEATURES 2 minifigs fit inside Engine detail Instructions also avialable in PDF! Link to the moc: https://reb.li/m/126069
  3. Hi! Who remembers this monster on the Gran Turismo video games?This thing costs 1 or 2 million, but it flies!! Almost 1000HP on a 900Kg car. As usual, I like to make "not-normal" cars, this Suzuki Gran Vitara is everything except normal. I tried to make the most smooth and studless as possible with the maximum details possible, I use stickers from other Speed Champions sets and did some custom ones myself, however, unlike what Lego usually does on the Speed Champions Sets, instead used stickers/prints (which I consider a cheat) I brick-built the vents, front grill and the "headlights" I did some weird angles, including the cockpit that is angled/hinged in order to make the shape of this car close to the real thing.
  4. Hello! My second version of this Climbing monster has improvements: Enough room for a minifig custom stickers to mimic the exact look Now it has an engine inside custom 3D printed rims that are exact replicas of the original car (printed by XTR Lego Cars ) There is also an alternative set of wheels do mimic the old Gran Turismo Look of this car (Also custom 3D printed)
  5. Good Day. Today I present you another japanese car in 1/11 scale - Autozam AZ-1. This kei class sport coupé is one of the most recogniseable/famous ones outside japan in spite of it's poor sales due to the high asking price and the burst of the bubble economy at the time. It also forms part of what is known as "Heisei ABC Trio" (Autozam AZ-1; Honda Beat; Suzuki Capuccino). The real car was developed by Mazda (Autozam being their brand focused on Kei car and sales of rebadged vehicles) with the F6A engine (in-line 3-cylinder DOHC turbo) coming from Suzuki. It was sold in the standard, Mazdaspeed and special editions (such as M2 1015) as well as under Suzuki badge as "CARA". Following the japanese kei class category standards, AZ-1 has 64ps (47'8kW) and is quite small at 3295 x 1395 x 1150 mm. To put that into perspective, here it is against a "small" european car: Some of the reasons why this car stands out so much are the gullwing doors and the MR layout. This model represents the standard edition, with a low factory spoiler(wing?), in it's iconic two-tone red+gun metal colour scheme. Initially it was intended to use the 43.2 wheels, but after making the Daihatsu Hijet in 1/11 scale with the 49'5x14 tyres, I wanted to make them in same size. This allowed me to cram both more detailing and functionality. The final model's features are: - M-motor for drive (with differential) - Servo for steering - Front independent MacPherson strut suspension with positive caster angle - Rear independent MacPherson strut suspension - Working steering wheel - Working fake engine - Working headlights - Detailed dashboard with AC vents, stereo and gauges - Detailed interior with gearlever, emergency brake, seats and door detailing - Openable doors, boot and bonnet I've tried to replicate the general look the best I could and to make the model more or less consistent overall. Hence the use of liftarms placed onto flexaxles for front quarter panels, as bare flexaxles stood out too much. The side intakes took some time to make as well, and even though I've tried using the 1x2 grille tiles, in the end the bionicle tooth piece ended up being my go to solution. The lower door sills actually use a bit of inherent slack coused by frictionless pins to archieve that slight inwards angle towards the bottom, but it is quite sturdy and doesn't damage any parts. Presentation video: PDF instructions available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-86177/syclone/rc-autozam-az-1/ Photo gallery (and an extra at the end of post): I've actually forgotten to take an underside picture, so here's a render instead to make up for it. Although red is definitely the most iconic colour for the AZ-1, there was also a second factory-available colour - blue. Unfortunately TLG's Technic colour palette has barely any blue parts, and having Bruno's Ferrari as parts donor the choice was already made, but if you don't mind ordering 3rd part parts, here's what it'd look like: Hope you've enjoyed this small model - C&C is most welcome as always)))
  6. Hi everybody! Half a year ago, the Suzuki company released a new generation of their famous mini SUVs - Suzuki Jimny and Suzuki Jimni Sierra(Wide edition). I, as a caring lover of this particular model, tried to repeat the same thing in Lego. That's what came out of it Specifications: 1:10 Scale All wheel drive 1.55 DC Chequired flag all terrain A/T tires (copy of BF Goodrich A/T KO2) Solid Axles Constant rear diff lock The modular design (body and chassis are separate elements connected by 6 points. The body and chassis, in turn, consist of smaller modules - doors, hood, axles etc) Electrics: BuWizz brick (or AAA Lego battery box/LiPo unit + IR V2 Reciever/Sbrick) – battery and receiver 2L motors - movement Servo motor – steering 2 LED lights iOS/Android smartphone/pad with BuWizz app – Remote control Life’s too short to stay stock! Therefore, in this model I use tires DC CHEQUERED FLAG All-Terrain T/A (87x26x1.55), that are an exact copy of BF Goodrich T/A KO2. This gives the model more realism and improves off-road performance compared to original tires. For the same reason, I recommend to using alternative power sources, in this case BuWizz, which significantly expand the functionality of the model, reduce its weight and increase the power of the motors. At the same time, the design of the model allows the use of original Lego batteries (AAA or LiPo unit) together with the V2 receiver of Lego Power Functions More photos and building instruction you can find on my personal blog page Video review:
  7. Hello All, hereby I present You the King of the Pull-Backs, which for I had the idea for very long time. Teaser picture is coming: Where has it started? Well, I had these parts lurking around, and really wanted to test them together: Recently, while I was playing with my Mini Suzuki Samurai, got the idea, how well the body and those parts above would fit together. As I really like the body lines of the Samurai, I decided to keep it, and improve. Let's take a look at on it, the common DNA is quite obvious, that's why I decided to keep it in the Suzuki off-road family, and named as Jimny. I set some constrains for me, like: keeping the body, but reconstruct it using 12M axles for the wheels make it affordable make it sturdy make it fast Here is a picture from inner structure, and how I set the distance with pulley wheels for the chubby tires, and increased the friction for the 12M axle: And one more insight shot (roof is hidden). It was pretty challenging to build a reliable and buildable inner structure for the shape I set in my mind, but finally it works, prototype works and sturdy enough for crashes! The hood still has some flex play, but nothing falls apart. Meanhile the build I made some records for me: Big and heavy wheels have a ton of angular momentum, but 4 Pull Back motors do the job. Big and heavy wheels help to keep the center of gravity low, so it jumps pretty stable. You need extra attention to load both axles properly, but once it is done...whooooooooooooooosh!!!!!! - my 42034 lost the run. (Video might follow, but no promise.) My painting skill (and patience for it) sucks... I want to paint the rims in black, but I have to make a second try on it. I don't find right time and place for taking sharp photos, so I present it as LDD renders, meanwhile I have a built one beside me... sorry. I am also waiting for missing color correct parts (on the way). As an engineer, I wanted to add some extra technical bit first, like suspension, but I realized soon, that it makes the loading of the motors very difficult (as You need to push the car downwards), makes the whole construction very complicated, and adds weight for no reason here. Keep it simple: low weight, big power. BUT, I was smart enough to integrate one nice feature though, and I proudly present You the first Drive Mode Selector in a Pull Back car! HERE You can download the LDD file, I tried to divide the model into small building groups, and built up in the most wallet friendly version. Some parts are mislocated, after real life build, I realised some stress and reinforcement need, but to fix minor placement issues in LDD, I would have to build it again from the ground. We can conclude, that I don't have the patience for it. TO DO: flip the pins (in the side panels) and the 2M rubber damper (under the hood), and push the windshield together - that's it. This is what You get in the LXF file: And finally, some possible versions - I am building the red one. Small part count (284 pcs), great fun. Enjoy! Edit: one small fix in LDD file - v3.31
  8. Hello! Today I am pleased to present to the general public of the two brothers - Lego Technic Suzuki Jimny Trial Custom and Lego Technic Suzuki Jimny Trophy Custom. They are united, above all, not just a long name, but also a common chassis, all-wheel drive and compact size. I was inspired to build a Suzuki Jimny sample 2001-2010 years. They are often prepared to take part in various off-road competitions, and that I thought - why not? And that's what came out of it. Enjoy ;) Models are made in the off-road style, and have all its attributes - extra lights, safety railings, stingers high clearance More photos and building instructions you can find on my lego technic blog here
  9. Hello fellow lego tinkerers Well after about 12 or so years away from lego, with it all tucked neatly in the loft, ive now been given a reason to get it all down and start tinkering again. About me: Well im currently going through the latter stages of my Commercial Pilot Training, and my hands on background is engineering, which mainly involved working on lawn mowers and motorcycles. Im a member of a model engineering society where ive built a few interesting versions of locomotives of the garden railway size (G Scale) and on the 5 inch gauge size (ride on). (got links to my youtube channel if anyone is interested (although being new here I dont want to start adding loads of non lego stuff yet as im not to sure what people get up to on here...) Like all youngsters who are engineering minded or just generally see anything with wheels and a motor/engine, as something to take apart, modify and "make better", I have many so called toys which have been changed over the years, but to get to the point of why I am here and signed up to eurobricks, I have a particular RC 1:12 scale rc suzuki vitara that I blew the engine on a few years ago when I was messing around with Lithium batteries instead of alkaline or NiCad. Now I couldnt bare to through it away as I frankly liked the look of it, and so I went around adding a newer bigger motor, (in the hope to make some sort of off road rock crawler type thing for a bit of fun in the mud and or snow when it does), but had now way of getting drive to the axles with where the motor was and through the existing gearing.. So the reason why Im here is that I started reconstructing the rear end out of lego as it was very easy to work with and had all the gears and chains etc that would work for me, which saved me having to go and buy a load of stuff as well......and also gave me my childhood back (a toy story moment really) so here are the pictures and ill explain the advice I need after them..... As you can see, ive made a sort of gearbox at the back and im using a lego 32 stud axle with a chain drive. Ive been comparing motors for this and had the idea of using my own motor, but then realised trying to make a lego adapter for the axle to go in was a pain and it could so easily break....so ive been looking at the lego XL motor for this...if anyone could shed some light on it, as I just wanted as much torque and grunt as possible and speed (if I want it) can be achieved through gearing. I assume they are just normal can type DC motors although not sure why they have three wires coming from them....as I just want to use the traditional 27mhz 2 channel receiver and speed controller and use my trusty acoms techniplus transmitter...as ill be using a metal gear micro servo for the front steering, and the lego rc gear that ive seen from YouTube vids seems very restrictive?? So to conclude, I would love some advice on how to mount the motor, and help with gearing as im sure there are parts that I havnt even thought of yet that would make this build easier