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Found 66 results

  1. Hello, I started building new MOC i wanned it to be a drift car. I was done building a chassis,but when I tested it, it didn't drift only drove normal. what I did to my car: put duck tape on rear wheels use one and two xl motors tried to gear down to 40:8(1xl motor) | 20:12 (2xl motors) rear wheels spins faster than front front wheels with diff
  2. Few years ago I made the first big scale portal axles... Now its time to do same at small scale! Here's the result: The axle has a 1:2 portal gear ratio and uses the CV joints for steering. Steering is done via 7 stud long steering rack. Its meant for lighter smaller scale models, like the ones Madoca77 is famous for. I also made some variations of the axle and to top it off I also added the mini 8x8 tatra chassis. You can download the LDD file here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/zblj/Ideas/MiniAxles/mini_drive_axles.lxf Some video footage: So what model should I make with these? Please vote! Thanks!
  3. Hi all! This is my first idea/entry for the mini contest. It's a supercar with the color variation of classic technic sets. First I make it in LDD to see the parts count, now it's exactly 200. Two 1x4 red plate is missing from the LDD model, they connect the 11 and 15 L liftarms. They will also give the rigidity of the body. I tried to put in all of the regular supercar functions: - independent suspension (front&rear) - steering with working steering wheel - two speed gearbox - rear wheel drive - V6 fake engine There are some more little features. The front suspension's bottom swingarm is longer than the upper one, this means more reality in the front axle. The gearbox is linear, the two dkblgray pulleys are responsible for extension in the drive line. They look like clutch plates in real cars. The suspension works with original Lego rubber bands. It's nearly finished, but maybe some improvements (like instrument panel decal) will be done in the next weeks: More pictures, video, part list is coming soon.
  4. Hey guys, I'm new here and would like to present you the WIP of my lawn and garden tractor. At the moment, it features RWD, a turning blade and a V2-Engine. Both are connected to the RWD, which has a differential. The seat is variable, it moves in one stud steps. The front wheels are steered by the small steering wheel. Things I'm having on my to do list at the moment: - I'll have to optimize the partcount to give the lawn and garden tractor a nice body (194 parts at the moment). - Building the model in real life (this will happen next weekend). And I have a picture of the actual virtual model for you, which shows the drivetrain and the frame. In the model above I made the wrong picture, so you can't see the steering. My second picture shows you my virtual model with body parts. I'll use silver and black or red and black. I'll see which plates I have at home and use them in one of the two colour combinations. The basket isn't ready, when playing with the lawn garden tractor the player can remove it. Another small update: I changed the body design, because the first version of the body was too "fat".
  5. Four years ago, in this galaxy (as opposed to that one far, far, away ), I made a model in LEGO Digital Designer called the MX-2 Rover. Shortly thereafter, I ordered the pieces to build it via LEGO's ill-fated Design byME program. This year, the realization hit me (like an asteroid crashing into an uninhabited planet ) that the steering mechanism was too weakly mounted to the chassis. So, I made several attempts to rebuild the chassis, eventually starting the entire model over from scratch in LDD. Even the shuttle on the back got a revamp. When I felt my design was satisfactory, I took apart the old rover, ordered the additional pieces I needed from Pick A Brick and BrickLink, and built them into... MX-2 Rover - eXtreme eXpedition Edition Now there is suspension on all six wheels and a folding communications dish that is independent from the steering mechanism (on the old model, it was connected to the steering). I also added glow-in-the-dark headlights in the front. Click (or tap, if you're using a touchscreen-enabled device) any picture to see a larger one. Headlights aglow! That gear on the back controls the steering. Here you can see the suspension in action. In addition, the communications dish has been unfolded, rotated, and aimed skyward. The shuttle has been detached from the rover and is "flying" on clear bricks. Browse the Brickshelf gallery, or download the LDD file. This model was designed by Toa Of Justice.
  6. Hi everyone, today I am going to present to you my most recent MOC, it's an inverted trike with an old design, and motorized with RC and servo-motor. I built it to improve the way how a small RC takes curves at high speed and accelerates. So it has two wheels on the front, with drive and steering and a single wheel on the back. It also has full independant suspension. I'll make a video soon, just need to find the time :)
  7. Hi all unimog lovers, i'm aware that there is an official 8110 thread but i admit i'm lost in finding the answer to my question about a steering fix in this hundreds of postings about the mog - a steering fix which is - easy to implement - a real improvement I know the complete redesigned front axle of ninjasco which performs outstanding but now i'm searching a cheaper solution for a friend... so: any recommendation how to (quite) easily fix this really crappy steering implementation of the 8110? which solution has performed well for you? Thank you in advance
  8. Ello all, been a while since I've posted an MOC here. Over this weekend, I've been working on a studfull build (haven't built like this for a long time) My aim was to make a small-mid scale rod, with realistic functions. It contains: 4 speed gearbox v6 fake engine Cowl steering (HOG) Not to mention the 'gothic' shredded interior. However, before I start the main bodywork, it's just that when I look at it so far, it doesn't seem right... http://imgur.com/a/fCTuH Edit: @Jim - Thank you for the tip - I have resized them all to a max width of 1000, which should be fine! What do you guys think? - What's that thing that isn't right, or anything to improve? (Will post progress here too) - I will be finishing the build definitely! Thanks! - Enderman
  9. Because I enjoy doing the most difficult I always try to put the maximum steering angle in my MOCs but I think most of the time I put more than necessary and I waste time and complicate me without requiring, for this reason I like to know what different angles are used in vehicles such as trucks, cars, formula ones or what you can think, another big question I have is where is usually placed on the wheel the steering pivot, outside inside?. It would also be a good idea to collect here the various existing management or invented systems so people could clear doubts. Thank you.
  10. Hello everyone! First-time poster here. Here's a model I built of a Mercedes-Benz W108. I built this with the goal of putting as much mechanical functionality in as small a space as possible. The resulting model is 14 studs wide (not counting rear-view mirror) and features: 4-wheel independent suspension Moving inline-6 engine connected to the rear wheels Hand-of-god steering which also turns the steering wheel inside The scale is roughly 1:15. It's kind of chunky partly because I was going for an "old-style" technic feel, and also because the actual W108 is rather boxy. As on the actual vehicle, the front wheels feature double wishbone suspension and the rear wheels use swing arms. Because the model is so narrow the differential isn't located between the rear wheels, but rather connects to them through a pair of shafts: You'll notice that the universal joints don't seem to correspond to any hinged parts; they're there to accommodate misalignment between Technic beams! There are a few locations in this model which feature sub-millimeter precision; if people are interested I can write a post later about alignment and why it's bad to pass an axle through more than a pair of beams. Speaking of sub-millimeter precision, the front steering depends on the fact that a lift arm is slightly narrower than a stud. Here's a view into the steering mechanism with the engine removed: The dark grey and black lift arms in the center of the image form a parallelogram linkage, so the dark grey steering links get actuated in sync. You can also see where I put the differential... Speaking of the engine, here it is: It's based off the excellent "fake engine" by laixEngineering. I highly recommend this engine for smaller models; not only is it better scaled than the massive engines built with the actual piston parts, it also makes a pleasant diesel rumbling sound when spun. Due to the relatively small size of the model I didn't have room to model some features, such as a gear shift or the rear seats. It's actually possible to motorize this model, although the steering/drive motors take up all of the interior space and the battery box looks rather silly sticking out of the trunk... Full gallery here. Thanks for stopping to take a look! I'm happy to answer any questions about the construction, precision alignment, etc.
  11. solta

    MOC: Self Steering Truck

    As it says in the title, this is a Lego City truck, which turns the front wheels by itself in the direction you push it. I got the inspiration for this creation on an official Lego channel on YouTube with video .The vehicle is not exactly a great aesthetic achievement, but at the end it was more to the functionality than the looks. Here are some pictures: How it works on Lego City streets? Watch the video: Here is the explanation: The entire system is mounted in the lower part of the plate 4 studs wide (not shown in the picture). So the blue half-pins for attacing are mounted in to the middle circles at the bottom of an ordinary Lego plate and this amounts to width of 3 studs. The gray parts are in this case fixed and do not move. Purple pins connect them into a whole. The green part is responsible for a steady rotation of the black base for the wheels. Black base are connected with orange axle-pins to the gray and green parts. Red pins secure the wheels to the black connectors. Brown pin is added as a limiter for the wheels movement so that they are not rotating too much.
  12. This is a home-made version of comic-con 2008 exclusive LEGO Indiana Jones set. Picture of previous modification. MOD steer-able fake Exclusive LEGO Indiana Jones set at Comic-Con 2008 by Nachapon S., on Flickr
  13. Hey everybody, Before i start, i apologize if there'd been a topic opened and discussed about this but since i am not great with forum usage and i can't seem to find a search option within the forum structure i felt like i had to create a new topic. I've been following this forum since i got out of my "dark ages" a year ago, started with technic 9391 tracked crane set. Buying almost any LEGO set whenever i find them cheap to increase my collection. Long story short, I am looking forward to understand the method to give a vehicle all wheel drive capacity with one XL motor for drive while managing to apply sterring with an M motor. I've been doing some researches but can't seem to find a simple solution (preferably some sort of instructional source) for this. Every other solution i've seen either is too complicated or contains part i don't have. Sadly, i can't shop online from LEGO and ordering from European seller through BL gets to be rather expensive due to international shipping. To give anyone who'd help me out on this an idea of my inventory, here's links for the sets and seperate parts i have; http://rebrickable.c...rid&src=myparts http://rebrickable.c...s?fmt=html&sl=2 If i didn't give enough info, let me know. Thanks !
  14. Hello I was trying things out and got a problem with steering. Before I try to rebuild it I want to be sure of what I am doing wrong and what I should try. So think of a 9398 where the big ball joints are used for 4WD instead of steering. Then for the steering on each live axle I needed 1 CV joint and 1 universal joint (to link both steerings). The problem is that the steering has some very noticeable play to it due to the joints. Note that instead of rack and pinion the steering is based on a comb wheel with a ball joint and track rod, and its range is 45º rotation of the axle on either side. So it is a very sensitive setup. I still have to add some ¿geardown? between the comb axle and the CV joint so those 45º become 90º (so I can safely use the servo motor) that might halve the play from the joints on the wheels but add some from the gears. Currently without making it entirely different I can only think of not linking both steering units (for using a single servo) and instead using an M motor with some gear reduction on each live axle both on the same channel of the IR receiver and getting rid of the joints alltogether. Any advice? I like the idea of the M Motors as in the end it will simplify things. Any drawbacks? Mockup of the steering used.
  15. I'm using the motorcycle head tubes as steering knuckes to get kingpin inclination. Des anybdy know a way to get wheel hubs to be vertical using these? I'm using it in a solid ale, so I don't want any camber.
  16. Hello Eurobricks members! Today I would like to show you my mobile crane. I didn`t know, that mobile crane is very difficult model to build. I had about 3 months a chassis to my mobile crane, but I spent a lot of time to bulid a tower to this crane. I am glad that I managed to finish my model before the official release of a new set 42009. My mobile crane is full remoted control Specifications of mobile crane: Length: 57 cm Width:19 cm / with the outriggers 33 cm Height: 25 cm / after lifting boom 58 cm / after extension boom 84 cm Length of boom 46 cm / after extension 74 cm Weight: 3130 grams Power Functions: 7 x PF M motor 1 x PF XL motor 4 x PF IR receiver 3 x PF IR remote control 2 x PF battery box Functions: drive for 4 wheels steering outriggiers rotation 360 degrees Functions of tower: lifting boom extension boom, 2 sections winch operator`s cab Lifting weights: BS Gallery Lego site