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Found 66 results

  1. Hello, I was watching Nicjasno's videos and some questions arosed. Let's say I have front SLA double wishbone suspension, no drive, lower arm is 6 studs long, upper arm is 5 studs long, there is a kingpin inclination and caster angle. I want to have ackermann steering and avoid bump steer. Where should I put the steering arm and how long should it be for steering rack ahead of front axle or behind it? Should it be 6 studs long when it is closer to the lower arm and 5 studs long when closer to the upper one? And another situation - let's say I have multilink suspension - two angled upper links and two angled bottom links, bottom ones are longer, there is also a kingpin inclination and caster angle, no drive. The question remains the same I will appreciate your advice ! Thank you in advance.
  2. It seems like all of my MOCs are being finished during the month of March. I present a Large Scale version of the Kalmar 180-9 forklift. I started this MOC last July, and after completing a number of other distractions, it's done. I'm please with the result. All pictures may be found on Flickr. The MOC features: Dual Stage Lift, PF L Forklift Tilt, PF M Steering, PF Servo Drive, PF XL Opening Doors Removable bodywork The lift is able to move three AA PF battery boxes (~600grams) to the height of 39 studs. Much more at thirdwigg.com. Photo Photo 2 Lift Chassis Open Enjoy, and happy building.
  3. Everything started with front axle, where wheel steering center is at wheel center. As it is almost impossible with existing parts, had to "cheat" and create something like multilink. As there was chassis, built some body on it
  4. So yet again, I have set myself up for disappointment by entering the 2017 Rebrick Technic challenge. My future BMW motor cycle is a streetfighter concept that has dual single sided swingarms with suspension, and steering on the front. Much more at Thirdwigg.com. Full picture album can be found on Flickr. com.
  5. Here we go, another refuse truck. Features: drive steering 2 cylinder motor opening doors tilting cab opening hopper bin lift compaction cycle extraction plate Video is . Much more at thirdwigg.com.
  6. Hi there, I'm ready to submit an order for some spare parts but I can't understand the difference between two parts that seem almost identical to me: I'm referring to #2738 and #32195b, Technic, Steering Arm 6.5 x 2 with Towball Socket Squared. The first one older and is named Un-Chamfered, the second one is relatively newer and is named Chamfered. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2738&name=Technic, Steering Arm 6.5 x 2 with Towball Socket Squared, Un-Chamfered&category=[Technic, Steering]#T=S&O={"cond":"N","rpp":"500"} http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32195b&name=Technic, Steering Arm 6.5 x 2 with Towball Socket Rounded, Chamfered&category=[Technic, Steering]#T=S&O={"cond":"N","rpp":"500"} Which is the difference? When building a MOC, are they interchangeable? Thanks in advance.
  7. After a little tinkering, I managed to create this self-locking differential. It locks when the car goes straight and unlocks when turning: A set of 12t gears are connected to the steering rack. When the rack is in the middle (and the car going straight), the two halfshafts are coupled together, locking the differential. When the rack moves to the left or right to steer the car, the 12t gears disengage with the 20t gears and let the differential act like an open diff: The main downsides I see with this setup are that the differential may stay locked during wide turns with small rack movement and the width of the axle is increased. A standard independent suspension with a differential and 68.8x36 ZR wheels (the combination I usually use) is 25 studs wide; with this feature it increases to 27.
  8. My dream Porsche lives in the spirit of the 914 and the 924: A compact, lightweight, mass-market, rear-wheel-drive sports car. It has a long hood, short overhangs, and a roofline that alludes to Porsches of today and yesterday. Much more at thirdwigg.com, and the full Flickr gallery may be seen here. Features: Boxer 4 Engine with optional Boxer 6 Engine Rear Wheel Drive 6 Speed short throw manual transmission Limited slip differential Front short/long arm wishbone Steering geometry (caster, ackerman) Rear short/long arm suspension Tilt steering wheel Opening doors Opening hood Internal roll cage The two engine options And the Chassis Hope you all enjoy, and good luck to all the contestants.
  9. Hey, Recently I have been trying to build a 4wd desert buggy with independent suspension on all wheels. My problem is that I'm not succeeding in creating a strong front independent suspension with steering. I know there are online a lot of guides and stuff, but they wont work for my 9 studs long suspension arms. Does someone know how I can do this efficiently and strong? I use the unimog wheels and I dont have the front wheel bearing with two knuckels. It would be much appriciated if someone can help me with this. greetings, Nanoscript
  10. I was wondering if these parts: Could connect with this part: I want to know if we can use these wheel hubs for smaller wheels that don't have those 3-pin connections, such as these:
  11. The inspiration for this MOC is my (now-sold) ’92 Toyota 4Runner, video here: https://vimeo.com/17747639 This is my first-ever studless build, as I used to build a lot with Technic about 16 years ago, but have just recently revisited the hobby. The model is assembled from three sets: 8110, 9398 and 42000. I don’t have enough shifting ring parts to make everything work as I’d like it to, so this model will get revisited once I pick up a few more sets and can motorize shifting, add a central transmission diff (for 2wd, 4wd and 4lo), and figure out how to get better gearing for the main motors. The model is powered by two PF-L motors hard-coupled to a single output shaft. Power goes into a Sariel-inspired 4-spd transmission, before being output both front and back (due to lacking the parts for a central diff) for a permanent 4wd system. There’s a diff at the front, and a (manually) locking diff at the back. Front suspension is an IFS setup and comes mostly from 42000, and steering is performed by a PF-M coupled to a clutch gear to prevent tooth grinding at full lock. Rear suspension is again Sariel-inspired for a live-axle setup. Tires are 1.9 Axial Maxxis Trepador on Unimog rims. (Current axle articulation is fairly accurate based on what I experienced with my 4Runner.) The chassis is about 25 studs wide with about a 43 stud wheelbase. Overall model length should be about 60 studs which will be more-or-less in proportion to that of the actual vehicle. Current chassis weight is 1759g. The suspension settles a bit, so I’m a little worried that once I add the body it will be too compressed, but that’s something to tackle for later! More pictures at: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=539844
  12. Please Help me! I am making a LEGO truck, and I was wondering whether it is possible to build a vehicle with two suspensions like this. : 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_bN7rFMjaw 2. http://sariel.pl/2010/11/steered-suspension-for-heavy-trucks/ Firstly, would it work if I have two of these style of suspensions and; Secondly, would it work if i have them without shock absorbers to return the wheels level in reference to the vehicle. Thanks, BuildSnapPost.
  13. Inspired by the classic 300SL. I started by developing a custom framework with 2 l-motors for drive and a narrower chassis with a nimble turning radius. All of the classic features were motorized with the Lego power functions. Gull-Wing Doors: Front end with Benz logo: Frame: Video: Once the whole car was built, it turns out the gearing was incorrect and because of the weight, the vehicle wouldn't drive. So I had to tear down the car to the main frame work and rebuild. Now the gearing is reliable and more support was added to the back end.
  14. I am curious how 6x6 would steer around a corner, especially with a setup like this (9398 with a third axle). All axles steered. https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1bjoUXNip6BhAR0IJl7YnxdkfHIhLlTnRuSM0FVikprY/edit?usp=sharing The Google Drawing above explains what I am visualizing. how do I calculate the ideal angle for the wheels to turn at Ackerman-style? Do other 6x6, 8x8 vehicles address this? With 8x8 it would be even worse without readjusting the wheel steering properly.
  15. How to Motorize the Mars Rover I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert level building. (No building the rover is not part of the project, she is doing it as an additional part of her presentation on Rovers). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see So, to steer, I use a servo? How do I operate the other things, more servos? And to move things slowly, do I need complex gearing? (I was looking at the SBrick which might work. I saw a few designed steering racks and chassis on Ebay, some simple, some pretty complex. Would I be better off buying another set that has a chassis and steering and drive designed to work with motors and then build it and adapt the Rover to it? Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  16. Hi all. I'm asking for some advices from experts. I am into lego technic "standard" constructions from a few years, now I want to enter in the world of modding and make some custom creations. I love electric models, speed and the "mechanical engineering" behind LTechnic. I also know the existence of SBrick and I love the idea and I want to support them. Then i think that a good start can be the motorization of an existing model, adapting it to power function, engine, steering and SBrick. I am thinking about buying the 42037 Off Roader or maybe the 42039 LeMans Race Car. I have an old (10-15 years old) offroader, I can disassemble it and get some parts from it, mabye. So I think I'm going to buy: - SBrick - XL Engine (I know it's a bit overpowered but I want to create a speedy car and reuse the engine for future creations) - Servomotor - Power Functions - 42037: Formula Off Roader OR 42039: 24 Hours Race Car Is it a good way to start? I need something else important?
  17. I've been trying to build a 1:10, rear-wheel-drive rally car and am running into a number of problems. Right now the issues are with the front suspension and steering. I had hoped to have 1) short long arms suspension (for progressive camber with suspension travel) 2) some caster angle (to help with bump steer) 3) Ackerman steering (or close to it); here I'm using a three-piece tie rod [EDIT: adding a bit of longitudinal reinforcement fixed a lot of this, but I'd still like to hear what people think of the setup and if they have any suggestions] However, I'm having three two problems: 1) SLA suspension plus caster leads to terrible toe-in and -out with suspension travel 2) The tie rods are behind the wheels, and there is way too much play in the system (and some toe-out when moving forward). Some of this I know is due to my not having fully reinforced the steering rack assembly, but I'm not sure more reinforcement will totally fix it. Basically, the two-stud-wide rack assembly wiggles forward and backward a lot when you push on the wheels. 3) With aligned and equal-length wishbones, I get near-Ackerman performance; with this setup I no longer seem to. The wheelbase is 30 studs, and the current (tentative) design is below. Top (with the motor towards the front of the vehicle) Bottom (note that the 6L arms are offset .5 studs from the top arms): Any advice would be much appreciated. Or if you can think of other people's MOCs I should look at for inspiration, let me know. Thank you!
  18. Some projects just take a long time to complete. The Audi allroad is finally complete, and since it took so long to come together, I took it apart yesterday. I guess I was a little more motivated by the disassembly, than by the assembly. More information is at thirdwigg.com. A video can be found , but keep your expectations low.Features: All wheel drive Steering by PF Servo Three speed transmission Drive by three PF L motors All wheel independent suspension Roof rack for all your toys Enjoy, and happy building.
  19. Hi, I'm pretty sure this is Negative Akerman steering geometry. If your know how to fix this problem please speak up! Here are some more pictures of the steering setup. Thanks for your help!
  20. Since I'm a new Technic builder I'm not so good with steering, anyone have any instructions for axles I could use? Thanks!
  21. This is a large short-course style stadium truck built with Lego Mindstorms Ev3. It features independent rear suspension and a front live axle with steering. One Medium Motor controls the steering, and one Large Motor drives the rear wheels. It also uses the InfraRed Sensor for Remote Control. The reasons I used only one motor in this model are: 1. I was attempting to reduce weight, 2. The chassis of the truck is even studs wide, not odd; not allowing a very easy placement of two motors, 3. This vehicle was built as a test vehicle for the new 4-stud wide differential I got a while back but never used until now. The drawbacks of this truck are: 1. One motor does not exert nearly enough power, 2. The old-type differential makes it impossible to not use more gears in order to transfer the power, 3. All the gears used decreases efficiency massively, 4. The rear independent suspension worsens performance, 5. A 3:5 gear ratio was used (a 1:3 would have been better), 6. The truck is very large, bulky, and heavier than most other robots that I have built. I extremely apologize for the audio/video sync issues, I have no idea why the video turned out that way. Music: http://www.bensound.com [] Extra pictures coming soon! []
  22. Hallo! I'm using Lego Digital Designer for a few days in order to create a driven, steered and individually suspended portal axle with a realistic pivot point. But I failed to combine all aspects. My endurance has expired. So, is there anyone who wants to accept the challenge and solves this problem. I would be grateful about a lxf-file. Thanks!
  23. soccerkid6

    Rovers: The LG-2 and CS-0

    These two rovers were a lot of fun to build. I don't build sci-fi a lot, so this was a nice change from Castle. The little rover was especially interesting, as I used pretty much only grey for it, which limited my part selection. The larger rover (the LG-2) has working steering, 'suspension,' and opening tailgates; while the smaller (CS-0) has a neat sample gatherer, moveable radar dish, and hinges between each section of the vehicle. More pictures here: http://www.brickbuilt.org/?p=1982 C&C welcome
  24. ThePlasticWerks

    [TECHNIQUE] Mixel Steering!

    Behold, six-wide steering based on Mixels joints! I am upgrading my fleet of Lego Xterras with this neat technique that I thought up early last week. For more info, see them here: http://www.eurobrick...topic=90846&hl= So, it's pretty straightforward: Technic friction ball/pin connector and Mixels 1x2 socket plates. On the Super Xterra, retaining the solid axle articulation! See below. On the regular Xterra, which is based on the Great Vehicle build style, there's much less room to move and the effect is very subtle. The joints have enough friction to stay wherever they're set. Again, subtle effect with a semi-standard City build due to lack of clearance, but it can steer! Utilizing the other axis, the Mixel joints coupled with the solid axle in the rear give a pretty convincing impression of independent suspension. The steering effect really shines when your vehicle is lifted to the heavens: Somebody needs an alignment! Oh dear. (another very convincing independent suspension effect :p) And coupled with some extra articulation... The one downside I've found is that, due to the friciton pins, the articulated wheels don't spin very freely (though it's advantageous for posing). Enjoy, and spread the word!