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Found 537 results

  1. Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr This was a fun to build and fun to drive, it's my fastest tracked vehicle that I have ever built, it utilizes the Red Beast's chassis assembly to power the tracks. The Red Beast is a Lego RC car from 2003, it is the slower and weaker than the Dirt Crusher. So if a system like this was implemented on a Dirt Crusher chassis it would have better performance than this build. Functions -tracks are suspended on the frontal idler -steering -driving Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I think I may be the first person to have finally found a solution for interfacing the "super axles" with normal axles. Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr mounting the wheels to normal axles Lego Prowler (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  2. Since I emerged from my dark ages, I noticed that there seems to be a trend of increasing use of Power Functions (PF) and Remote Controls (RC), in official sets and MOCs. Where adding a motor used to be optional, now there are more and more TLG models with integrated PF and RC. Even worse (in my eyes) is the fact that an official set can’t be a flagship model without any form of PF. When I see Technic MOCs in the various media, this phenomena is even more clearly visible. MOCs which get the most admiration from the community are packed full of motors, receivers, battery packs, lights, etc. The most common MOD of released sets is “RC-ing” the functions. New initiatives like the S-brick seem to confirm this trend. I observe this and I can’t understand what the fascination is, I have always had a preference for manual controls. This tend to lead to more fascinating mechanisms and make more compact models possible (just look at the amazing MINI-contest entries). In MOCs, it forces you to think about the user-friendliness of the controls and gives valuable feedback about the load on the drivetrain and the efficiency of a mechanism. I can understand adding one PF motor to avoid endless knob turning, although I found that adding a hand crank like on the 8288 Crawler crane improves this dramatically. But PF-ing all functions doesn’t necessarily makes it easier to control and takes away most of the feedback. With RC, I feel even more detached from the model and its functions. Additionally, I don’t like the noise the Lego motors make and I cringe every time a motor triggers the overload protection of a LA. When my 42030 and 8043 are switched off, the feel like dead weight and I notice a bigger threshold to take them from the shelve and play around with. All this has lead me to remove the PF and RC from a lot of my TLG sets to make the model manual: My 41999, 42025, 8070 have been de-PF-ed and became more interesting by it. In conclusion: in my opinion, PF and especially RC make a model slow, noisy, heavy, bulky and expensive. So my questions is simple: what is the fascination with motorizing a Technic model? Is it something younger generations want or demand, or is it a phenomenon driven by AFOLs? (PS: Don’t get me wrong, this is not a rant against PF and RC, I really can appreciate their value. But I do struggle to understand the fascination with motorizing everything.)
  3. hello, since a bit of time i decided to rebuilt some lego's, but i do not wanted to scrap my other rides;-) so i bought a 42029, because i think it is a fantastic truck to begin with:-) started from a stock 42029, i changed the length of the bed, put in a proper v8, rebuild front and rear fenders, put big 8110 wheels on it, make it rc. other things like a exhaust in the rear, the top ones still standing, it is powered by 2 l motors and the servo motor. next is the lenghtening of the cabin;-) here are some pics enjoy and comment;-)
  4. Lego SturmTiger 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr well here it is, the conversion of my Tiger I into the SturmTiger, fitted with a 3 round auto-loaded gun. It also has fully working RC drivetrain, gun elevation, 2 speed transmission, detailed engine, and working torsion-bar suspension I also re-shaped parts of the hull to improve the accuracy of details. here is the firing mechanism It's a modified version of Kelkschiz's version. it achieves ranges of 25-30 ft with 1x3 technic beams Lego SturmTiger firing mechanism by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr the mechanism in operation https://flic.kr/p/o7dUUn the transmission used in the tank Lego Tiger I transmission by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego SturmTiger 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr more photos and information here http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/391445
  5. Hello all, This is my first post of a MOC on Eurobricks. Now, it all started when i was searching on the internet, and i spotted a very nice car: (here is the URL) https://encrypted-tb...VhMuEUleUXyVfTQ But, this car wasnt very sophisticated, so i want to rebuild the car, but with some technology of a racing car. I saw piterx's Lancia Stratos, and i tought it would be a nice competitor for it. I am going to use the gear ratio 1nxtmonster uses in the fastest lego car ever. And i am going to use only one buggy motor. As soon as i worked out how to post pictures, i will post pictures. I already have the RTC system worked out, it was de- signed by Sariel. Its very small and, very important, light. If anyone has some good idea's for building the car, please post them. KInd regards, PS: I know Bricklink, so i have the ability to order parts.
  6. well I have posted some of my Tank builds on Eurobricks and those builds have been my most recent ones so why not post my older builds here and continue to add more builds to this list. These tanks are from my "first year" of posting builds on EB, flickr,and mocpages. A39 Tortoise This is my first major build that required planning and my first time using bricklnk to obtain parts. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/371020 M4 Sherman Firefly My second build, it was complex for me (at the time) to design the HVSS suspension. The suspension is used by my american vehicles. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/371992 M8 75mm GMC another american vehicle with my first 2 speed transmission in it, it used 2 compacted versions of Sariel's heavy-duty 2 speed gear box. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/376549 E-100 With this build I got a new camera for recording video footage in HD. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/377995 Maus (instructions available) This was my first 1/35th scale build. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/378211 Elefant It featured a mechanism with adders to create a realistic idling effect when the tank is driving. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/381824 Churchill VII another vehicle with a transmission and my first vehicle where I focused on editing the main picture to look somewhat nicer. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/385930 Panther Ausf. G this tank was designed for mobility and my first attempt at interleaving road wheels with torsion bars. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/388236 STuG III Ausf. F my first attempt at a non Light bluish grey vehicle and a recreation of my first RC tank with better details. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/388921 TOG II (instructions available) another 1/35 build http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/389024 Tiger I Ausf. E late version My first vehicle with my own transmission design, and it having a fully detailed engine compartment. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/391139 SturmTiger First vehicle to feature a working shooting mechanism (credit to Kelkschiz) http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/391445 T28/T95 Super Heavy Tank 1/20 (RC) 1 year of MOCs http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/394186 i couldn't post all of the videos but there are links to them on each of the mocpages pages or heres a link to my Youtube channel https://www.youtube..../jmsbd07/videos more vehicles will be continued to be added when they are built.
  7. Gabor

    Steam Monorail

    Hi everyone! This is my newest creation, a remote controlled minifig scaled monorail, which is not fast, not modern, not streamlined, but old, dirty and slow. Despite or because of these fact, I hope you like it! The video: Maybe you remember my RC STS crane (http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/380083). The temperature was +1°C in that video, in this video it was +42°C! The bridge and the other things under the track contains approx 1000 bricks! On the last Malug meeting we made a bridge building competition and after that we got the bricks. What a cool thing, without them, the train destroyed the track. And an advice: if you build a monorail, don’t make the video in a rock-garden. Find a flat and horizontal table, and your life will be very comfortable! :D (to make the scenes with the bridge took more than 4 hours, I had to rebuild the whole track after every failed record) The Track looks simple, but it has to be strong and stable, because the train’s centre of gravity is in a high position. Of course the technic pieces are the best for it! The blue 2L pins are necessary. If we use only the small pins (with stud on one of its ends) the system part of the track can leave the technic part easily. Behind the windows: I found out the method I used, while I was building my RC Mercedes Citaro (http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/349750). The main feature of this method is that the model has an only-technic module inside, and it is covered by system elements and walls. The inside modul is completely independent, it can work perfectly without the system parts. In my Mercedes I used this only at the driving mechanism. The main advantage of the construction is the stability. The technic pins and liftarms (built in three directions) are strong enough against the forces caused by motors and gear ratio (and crashes…). More pictures: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/392844
  8. Hello, I have been busy this summer and haven't done much building, and the offroad project on my desk will most likely be taken apart because of some doubts of the eventual performance. After spending some time in Silicon valley with NSLC, I noticed the many Tesla vehicles in the area, and was inspired to make another road-going vehicle. This time I want to focus on making a proper suspension setup based on either the Tesla Roadster or Model S, as well as a slightly different drivetrain in order to make room for the rear axle setup. The reason I made this topic is to get some useful info about parts I could use in order to recreate these setups as realistically as possible while still retaining strength, as I hope to use them in an RC MOC capable of 19+ kmh. Here are the photos: Lotus/Tesla Roadster front suspension: Model S front suspension: It doesn't have to look exactly the same, but rather perform the same functions. As for scale, the shock absorber I plan to use is this one:
  9. Hello all! I think 42005 is a good kit to convert into RC crawler. After a few weeks of work, here is the RC Monster Truck. As I don't like the IR control idea, so I take some RC electronic: 1. RC 2.4g receiver 2. ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) 3. 9g servo with custom servo mount With some soldering and drilling with custom parts, This baby now controlled by 2.4g RC transmitter. The car can use both Lego power function battery box or 2S Lipo. Powered by a 2S 900mah lipo, the running time is over half an hour with the L-motor. Currently, the car is rear wheel drive, I have tried some simple steering design but as the front part is not horizontal, the front wheel is forced outward. Anyone have ideas on converting this car to 4wd?
  10. I was looking at TheItalianBrick's post about the modular gearbox, and I tried to make it. This is too big for that topic, so I made this my own topic. I failed, so I tried my own way. It uses a linear actuator to make a really thin, long gearbox, though I could make it normal with just one tiny gear. It allows smooth movement back and forth, for each of the 4 functions. I wouldn't recommend this in a short vehicle, because it widens and shortens, best used in like a crane or something. It uses 1 motor for drive, 1 for change, and has 4 functions. You could use just one of these gearboxes to power 2 more, and those to power 4 more, then 8 more, then etc. You'd need a lot of torque, but it could work, eventually to 64, 128, 256 even, functions for just 2 motors, if you have enough bricks. I could build about 2 more, so 8 functions for me.
  11. Lego Tiger I Ausf. E Late 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Well here it is my Tiger I Ausf. E Late version, it features adjustable rear idlers, working suspension, 360° turret traverse, gun elevation and depression, working lights, 2 speed transmission, opening hatches, a crank starting mechanism for turning on the battery box, and fully detailed engine deck and engine. transmission and final drives Lego Tiger I transmission by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr more photos here http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/391139
  12. Hi all, Been lurking here for some time, and enjoyed viewing many of the MOCs you guys are creating. I ended my dark age 3 years ago with the Unimog set, however I don't have the motivation to join the world of MOCs until now. For my first MOC I have chosen to reproduce the Duke Coupe featured in the racing game "Dirt: Showdown". I think the simple structure and design of the car would be a good first practice on MOCs. For the build I didn't make much planning apart from approximating the stud length and width of the car, and deciding that it would be double wishbone suspension for both front and rear. Then I just laid all the available parts around myself and begin assembling freehand. I started out with the front axle, and decided midway that I want the build to also be IR controlled with a servo for steering and L motor for drive. The build then progressed to the centre section with the engine and exhausts. The exhausts took a lot of tweaking to make it look right, and even when I leave it I'm still doubtful of the appearance. I then skipped the main body section and begin work on the rear axle and the rear bodywork. Joining the front and rear took quite some time. Originally I wanted to have a detailed cockpit but the battery box, L motor and IR receiver took all the space. Designing and fitting the panels were easier than expected though. The roof was the hardest part of the whole build, I just couldn't get it to look right for a very long time. Later I accept defeat and decided on using flex axles again. In the last steps I find structural weaknesses (by using my hand to flex and twist the whole model) and strengthened them, then I finish the build with some last touches on minor details. The finished build: Engine bay details: Central PF elements: Detached rear body and roof: Detached front body and hood (One flex tube slipped out of position ): Belly shot: Specs: Length: 60 studs Width: 27 studs I don't know the exact weight but it is heavier than the assembled 42000 F1. I also don't know the part count since I didn't bother counting. IR controlled with servo steering L motor geared 1:1.4 with differential for drive to rear wheels (engine also connected) Speed: ~1 m/s Front and rear double wishbone suspension Wheelbase: 47 studs Track width: 23 studs Normally 4 studs clearance with 3-4 studs travel 1 stud clearance when fully compressed I am aware there may be some sub-optimal assemblies, some individual parts may not be 100% stably secured, and the bent axles may be illegal techniques. The ride height went a lot higher than I expected, the nose is also a few studs too long.and as a result the whole model looks a bit off-proportioned compared to the original. But I think the overall feel of the design is still there. Although the build was fairly basic and simple, the process was extremely fun. The exhaust turned out to all right once I attached the rear and main body. Watching the build take shape as it progresses was the most satisfying feeling I've had in a while. Thanks for viewing! Marco
  13. Hi When I had been building (in March, I think) other things, that are going to appear soon, I have recognized, that I have parts to make a great chassis for simple buggy-ish vehicle. However, then I have seen some musclecars here in Technic forum, so I decieded to build one too. This one is the final product of that build - it is not prepared, I've been building it instantly according to my thoughts. Hope you like it. ;) it is propulsed by one 5292, and for steering it has one servo. It's steering wheel doesn't move, it is just decoration, and at "RC car" it was "redundable mass"... Video: More photos: https://www.flickr.c...57644613626038/ musclecar by Horcik designs, on Flickr musclecar by Horcik designs, on Flickr musclecar by Horcik designs, on Flickr musclecar chassis by Horcik designs, on Flickr
  14. This is the car I showed in the Lego Fan Weekend two weeks ago. This creation is made in scale 1:8. The total size is: 75 studs of length, 29 wide and 21 of high (60x23x17 cm) The weight is 3.1 kgs, with around 3500 parts and 5 motors. It includes some remote controlled functions: - Steering (M motor) - Drive (2 L motors) - Sequential gearbox (PF Servo motor) - Disc brakes (M motor) The sequential gearbox is an improved version of my previous Caterham ones (3rd Gen V2), with 5+R and auto-clutch. The speeds ratio: R - 2.08:1 1 - 1.67:1 2 - 1.25:1 3 - 1:1 4 - 1:1.33 5 - 1:1.67 The max speed in 5th speed is 3 kph (~2 mph) It has a gear indicator in the interior, between the front seats. For make more easy the gearbox tests the car in has a rear support to keep the rear axle lifted The suspension is based in the real one: front McPherson axle and a rear 4-links live axle. The front axle also has advenced geometry: Camber angle(2º), caster angle(3.5º) and kingpin angle(7º) The steering has ackerman geometry and working steering wheel. The car also has working disc brakes in all wheels, they are very powerfull and includes functional brake pedal. The complete video COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS WILL BE AVAILABLE COMING SOON!! As always for more info visit my website: sheepo.es
  15. Lego STuG Ausf. F 1/15 (RC) Girls und Panzer by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr its all about dat 3 tone vibrant camo well this was a fun build that allowed me to differentiate from my current color scheme and rebuild my first tank in a way more accurate version. more pics here http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/388921
  16. well this is my first post of a MOC on here so, here it is The E-100 is one of my best or most unique vehicles that i have built so far. This tank is the largest vehicle that i have built so far and it contains almost all of my bley tiles. Here are more photos and information about this build. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/377995
  17. Teaser: 7,5 cm travel at back, 3,5 cm travel at front, 1260 g weight, 2 rc motors pics later... Oh, it is yellow.
  18. Hey guys! Some of you have already seen the WIP thread, so here's the video and proper pictures of my latest moc! Mitsubishi Pajero Pinin This is the car I own in real life so i always thought about building it out of legos :D It's been quite a long way to get it complete but I finally made it! Features: - 4x4 - 4+N+R sequential gearbox - Auto clutch - Braking system - Mac pherson strut - Rear live axle - Brake lights - Front lights - Openable doors, hood and bonnet - Working steering wheel Here's a video of it The model works good except for the 4th gear wich is hard to engage as the gearbox is un-synchronized...on the other side the braking system works great! I actually didn't expected it to be so powerful, it can stop the model in a small space even if it's travelling fast. I hope you'll like it :)
  19. It's that time again, I have finished (well, mostly) my latest Swingloader, which is a bit different from the last one Firstly, I have based this one off of a real life loader, namely the Mecalac AS210E, which is the biggest in Mecalac's line of swingloaders. This is what the real thing looks like: And this is my Technic version of the machine: Emphasis on "based on". as there are several differences, mostly due to limited parts availability.. As you can see, it's not articulated, like my Mk II model, but rather has four wheel steering. This apparently makes for a more stabile platform, and that holds true in the world of Lego as well One of the problems with the Mk II was balance when swinging a load to the side, whilst the steering was articulated (?). The vehicle has been finished for a long time, except for the loader assembly. I think I have completely rebuilt the entire thing three times, and tried different geometries a thousand times! Today I got it to work satisfactory, so now I can show you! Technical features: -Four wheel drive, with central differential (not so sure whether this was necessary), powered by one PF XL-motor -Four wheel steering with Ackerman geometry (One PF Servo motor) -Swinging loader (one PF M-motor) -Lifting arm (one PF L-motor) -Tipping bucket (one PF L-motor) Non-technical features: -Openable doors -Openable engine compartment -2 x PF Lights -Fake, driven V6 engine in the rear Making it not articulated made it possible to make it a little more compact, as I wasn't restrained to keeping all motors in the rear of the vehicle, and then routing four axles vertically in line across the articulation point. This is the arrangement of the various motors in the loader: The middle M-motor (the one sitting the right way) is supposed to be a Servo motor (what's taking so long?!), so the output there is actually just a pin hole. The actual output is the #2 orange connector just below it. Also, the worm gear for swinging mechanism is of the new type. I haven't made the digger in LDD yet, so it doesn't go further just yet Anyway, I suppose pictures are due: Good tilting kinematics Driver's cabin is a bit empty as of now... Engine compartment and batterybox Underbelly shot. The central differential is covered by panels Underbelly shot, showing the steering geometry. THe servo is geared 1:1 through three 16 tooth gears, so I had to use 8 tooth gears and studded bricks for the steering to work properly.. I know it doesn't look too good And a short video: So that's about it! Thoughts and critisism and praise is welcome I don't have the time to make a video today, but hope to get one up in the next couple of days! Ans sorry about the sub par photo quality
  20. Hi, I organized contest "Trophy 4x4" at our russian language Technic community (vk.com/technic_club). It is at final voting stage. Dont wanna translate all the rules, but main rules are below: Contestants shoul build technic offroader. No cosmic design. Common rules: - AWD - body whidth - 15-17 studs - axle width between rims - 14-16 studs - Wheels can be from 62 to 83. two main discpilines: 1) Standart. You should build your car using reference chassis 4x4, instructiuon is available. Changes of this chassis should be minimal. But you can adjust wheelbase and middle part. Pf is not mandatory, but you should leave free place for it. Mainly design contest. 2) PRO You can build any chassis you want 4x4 or 6x6. PF and demo video is mandatory. For advanced builders who dont want to be limited by simple refence chassis. Author name should be a secret till the end of contest. Authors age is frrm 12 to 30. So dont be too critical:) Here I will post some photos of finalists and info about models. Links to full gallery will be below. You will not find any unique and new ideas below, cause main idea of contest was to create offroaders in similar scale and with real-look design (no copy). STANDART №1 - Trophy Truck 1 XL + 1 М Manual winch, fake engine https://plus.google....66583677/photos №2 - Pickup IP SUV 1 L motor + M motor Roof behind the cab is detachable https://plus.google....723461192701041 №3 - Expedition-Van 2х L motors, M-motor, L motor for winches front and rear motorized winches with gearbox in the middle. Fake V6. Openable doors. LED front and rear lamps https://plus.google....725666702750977 №4 - 1938 Raven HotRod ХЛ + М - motors working fake engine detailed saloon and opneable doors https://plus.google....721786115365745 №6 - Road car for active life L + М motors openable doors and trunk https://plus.google....721881213180289 №11 - Carston Hawk 2х L + servo Opnable hood, doors and trunk https://plus.google....723966591953649
  21. Hi everyone! I uploaded the LDD file of my RC STS Crane! You can download it from Mocpages! If you would like to build it, read the text and look at the pictures, too. The LDD doesn't contain some pieces, or doesn't allow to put something into its place, the list of these things is behind the link, too. Happy building! :) http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/380083
  22. Hi everyone! This is my newest big technic creation, a remote controlled ship to shore crane! The crane is 66 cm high and 107 cm long, it has 8 whels, 4 motors and it contains 34 13L liftarms and 42 15L liftarms. It has four functions. It can go near the water, catch and release the container, rise and lower it and take it between the shore and the ship. I made a video about the crane. The temperature was +1°C, the batteries were weak, so the mechanism of the compressor couldn’t work well, the crane couldn’t catch the container. We had to found out something instead of the original screenplay, and this is the result, a real HD disaster movie in Holywood style! :) (The video is faster, than the real speed.) If you don’t belive, that the crane can catch the container, or you are simply curious about the real speed of the functions, look at this video, too: If you are interested in the boring technical detailes about the crane and its functions, follow this link: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/380083 Thanks for watching! :)
  23. Greetings to you! This is my first post, and would like some feedback on my new MOC. Built over the span of 3 weekends, I'd say I'm rather craned out. Nonetheless, 'tis a crane truck with flatbed, although the crane is mounted on the rear, unlike most models. It's not based on anything in particular, but let me know if it looks similar to a real vehicle x) Tried to make the front as detailed as possible, using studded elements, and I thought that looked extremely nice. Apologies for the atrocious photography skills, but I tried my best. If you want the pictures smaller and easier to see, go to the imgur link (http://imgur.com/a/cIeGk) They don't seem to want to come out at the correct size on Eurobricks. Rant over, I present to you: http://i.imgur.com/AjgAClX.jpg Observe the minifigure precariously dangling from that crane. x) http://i.imgur.com/MQSwSl3.jpg The rear section comes complete with a rotating crane, (Through 270 degrees) Functioning outriggers (They actually lift the truck) and features a pneumatic boom, with an adjustable crane hook. Aesthetics are quite crude here, but I feel it makes it look realistic. http://i.imgur.com/aDV3NP1.jpg It is evident I'm quite short on those 5x11 plates (I bought 8081) so had to improvise. You can see another view of the crane, too. http://i.imgur.com/Y1ip3qV.jpg Chassis. Nothing special here, but it all works. It is fully RC and controlled by 1 XL motor for drive, (at a 1:1 gear ratio) and 1 M motor for steering. If you want pics of anything else, just ask me and I'll happily provide (I won't edit them, though) Any feedback appreciated! Thanks! - Evil Enderman
  24. Today is the third anniversary of my website!! And for celebrate it I will show you many information about all my sequential gearboxes until today. With my latest cars I introduced a new sequential gearbox type, and to avoid problems with how to call this new one, I decide add a new way to call all of them. Since now the new versions of the sequential gearboxes will be called with ordinal numbers. In this ordinal numbers don't enter other gearboxes types like: dual clutch, planetary or CVT, just normal sequential gearboxes. 1st Generation This was my first sequential gearbox(I think this was the fisrt Lego sequential gearbox with more than 3 speeds, but I am not sure), I designed it in 2009 to be used in my Bugatti Veyron. The version used in my Veyron is a 7+R speeds. with a little modifitacions you can get a 4 speeds or a 5+R speeds versions. The main feature that distinguishes this generation is that it has a speed selector in linear motion, and the distance between speeds are 2 studs. Correct speeds change ratio: ~70% In Octuber 2010 I designed a second version with auto-clutch. It worked fine, but I decide not publish it beceause it was too big to be used in any car. 2nd Generation Before to finish the Veyron, I started to develope a new car(the Porsche), and even before I know what car I will build, I wanted to use again a sequential gearbox, but the Veyron's gearbox wasn't an option because it was too big. In the search of a new smaller gearbox I developed many differents prototypes. And this was one of them. Finally I decided to use a dual-clutch gearbox to be more accurate to the real Porsche. The main feature that distinguishes this generation is that it has a speed selector in linear motion, and the distance between speeds is only 1 stud. I have used this gearbox in 3 of my big MOCs until today, all of them with differents speeds configurations and add-ons. Type 1 - 2 switches(4 speeeds), without auto-stop, without clutch (Mini Cooper) Correct speeds change ratio: ~90% Here the Mini's gearbox. It was the first You can download the step by step instructions in my website. Type 2 - 3 switches(5+R speeds), with auto-stop, with auto-clutch (Land-Rover Defender 110) Correct speeds change ratio: ~80-85% Here the Lad-Rover drivetrain. This drivetrain also includes a range gearbox and a 2WD/4WD selector, but the sequential gearbox is a normal 2nd Gen gearbox. Type 3 - 5 switches(9+R speeds), with auto-stop, with auto-clutch (Peterbilt 379) Correct speeds change ratio: ~80-85% Here you can see the whole Peterbilt drivetrain. You can se the main gearbox, the drive motors, the range gearbox and the pneumatic module(compresor, compresor control and brakes control). In total 5 PF XL motors and 3 M. 3rd Generation The history of this gearbox is very strange. Like the 2nd Gen, this gearbox was initialy developed as a alternative gearbox for the Porsche, but in this case I couldn't make a good system to generetare the auto-stop mechanism, so I leave it in a box of a while... The main feature that distinguishes this generation is that it has a speed selector in circular motion. To reduce the size of the few speeds versions I created two types: one for 2 swtiches and another for 3 and 4 switches. Type 1 - 2 switches only This type change one speed for each 90º of the selector switch movement. Correct speeds change ratio: >95% I will publish some information about it comming soon. Type 2 - 3 & 4 switches This type change one speed for each 45º of the selector switch movement. This gearbox is specialy recomended for 4 switches, because with only 3 switches the saved space compared to the 2nd Gen is not significant, maybe around 5-10%. But with 4 switches the saved space is more than 20% Version 1 (V1) - Caterham Seven (with auto-stop, with clutch) Correct speeds change ratio: ~85-90% This new gearbox is more reliavable than the 2nd generation, but it still have a little problem, and I need to fix it before publish nothing more about it: it can't support high torque. I could avoid this problem in the Caterham adding an external torque converter, but this is not the ideal way to do it. Here you can see the Caterham Seven drivetrain. Version 2 (V2) - Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 (with auto-stop, with clutch) Correct speeds change ratio: ~90-95% This is a little bit smaller and more reliavable version of the 3rd gen. And with the torque problem fixed. Here the Mustang GT500 drivetrain. Future generations For the future I have some ideas for new gearboxes generations, but they are only ideas... nothing more, and I don't know when I will can have a working prototype. I hope this long explanation can help you to understand my gearboxes family and the high quantity of models developed along the years.
  25. Hi all, i have a somehow special question but maybe there is a expert for such things out there... I want to reactivate my 8366 RC racer. But it does simply nothing when pushing the knobs on the remote control... What i have check so far: - The batteries have power (checked with another batterybox) - both motors and cables are working perfectly - checked by powering them from another lego batterybox - both channel switches are set to the same channel But now i'm at the end of my wits - how to track down other possible errors, e.g. how to check if the remote control unit itself is working - without owning another counterpart? Any ideas? Thanks a lot in advance!