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Found 61 results

  1. Four wheel drive on Lego Technic cars with small wheels is hard to realize, as they become relatively too wide (which is ugly) and the ground clearance is also compromised. The problem then is: how to get the same grip back with only rear wheel drive? Then you need to push something 'extra' in the back of your already crammed, small nice-looking vehicle... This concept is an approach to keep this 'something extra' as small as possible while giving awesome and unexpected grip to the car. (At least, I was astonished by what it achieved!) Instead of typing a lot, I've put it all into a video with the theory of how it all works at the back of the video to let the 7 billion minus 1000 viewers that are not interested into more advanced Technic stuff experience how it works in practice on a 2 cm (that is: inchy) thick ice floor. As for the car, it is built from Power Functions spares as all my L-motors (which have quickly become the main workhorse for every Technic builder) are ehm... in use. That is why you find me using a geared up XL motor, which gave me memories of the good old times when the poor knob wheel parts splattered around. Sharp images of the car and mechanism explanation can be found on: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=564319. On MocPages (beware, there is a piece of code there that simply destroys anything such as image resolution on .png files...) http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/428881 Video: I finally have found PovRay so (with many thanks to all those who make that software) I can present a high-quality render:
  2. HI to all! the video itself explain all I want to say about the difference between the same ratio obtained with worm gears or with normal gears, the first are really useful in lego and allow to build really particular stuff, but.. they have a lot of friction. i was really surprised from how much difference there is in the power output of the two mechanism, and it is directly proportional to the force the system has to generate: i test them with an !kg weight, and while my version works fine, the worm geared-one fail to lift it! thank you for watching, hope that this video will help someone of you to make better mocs!
  3. Hello! mocers, I'm back! i just success to it this video I recorded this summer, it is a tournament with three middleweight BOT, you'll find the stats on the first part of the video, but here there is the brickshelf folder if you want to see more pictures of them, enjoy the video and thanks for watching! just some oddity: (ALERT:watch the video first!) BOB (originally named BOBCAT) was built (and driven) by my cousin, he loves to make simple but adamant and overpowered bot and (as said by some info at the end of the video) they are really effective in a sumo arena RIBALTOLANDO was the jocker robot, built by me, but drive by my cousin against SCORPIONE (tracked scorpion) it was a real challenge to build an invertible bot, but it should be really hard to defeat in a real arena (not in a sumo one) its strengths are all visible in the fight against BOB (maybe because I was driving it... hem hem ) SCORPIONE CINGOLATO is the evolved version of wheeled scorpion, but it ends like all my sophisticated bots, it is beautiful and really powerful but not too much realiable. Its main problem is the thermal cut-off of my lipo BB that is a little bit damaged and so the robot stops sometimes when reloading the weapon while tracks are running PS: this video is one of my first on youtube and i changed editor (from iMovie to light works) so due to some difficulties i deleted the whole original audio and replaced it with songs, hope the final work is something good
  4. Hi all! I've just submitted a set idea to Lego ideas, but reached a problem. Here's an image of the set idea below; as of writing this the idea is still awaiting approval so is not on the Lego Ideas website: While i've put a lot into making the set look nice and giving it playability, there is one problem that I still feel like i should tackle to make this a solid idea for a set. Most/all train sets produced by Lego are supplied with the ability to have Power Functions. As this is a small saddle tank engine, there is no room for a motor. The passenger carriage does have space that could accommodate a power functions battery and receiver, but that would mean that the engine and coach would have to be permanently attached. Lego won't make alternative molds for ideas sets, so suggesting an alternative motor design would not be possible. Does anyone have any ideas? would be a great help! Many thanks, Isaac.
  5. someguy

    How to power 16 L-motors

    How can I power 16 large power function motors? I would NEED them all to be on the same IR reciever. No seperate circuits with seperate IR recievers. Would it be possible to open up an IR receiver and modify the components for the job? Could I even use a standard Lego battery box or would it drain too quickly? Edit: sorry meant 16 XL motors.
  6. I have long awaited the moment that two race buggy motors would be in my reach, as they are quite expensive now... and I also bought the Lego Technic lipo battery two years ago. The perfect recipe for a small lightweight racer! Read the rest of the story at: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/424516. For now, there's just these two pictures and two videos. To post the photos on Eurobricks, I had to serieusly resize them. If you want to see the better quality images, just click this link: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561899. All photos can also be found on the MocPage link, and can also be hosted from MocPages. This is because brickshelf has sometimes a rather long posting time. Please do not use THESE EXACT photos on another website, they are really at 10% of their real quality because Eurobricks requests it. The brickshelf photos are really better!
  7. RC technic Lego B&W SUV with motorized rear trunk, hood, rear wheel drive with a differential and steering with the servo motor. The first rendition of this car below:
  8. This is Part 3 of my project. After rebuilding the LEGO official products of 10196 and 4597, I start to build a true MOC. It is a CUUSOO project and it awaits your support: http://lego.cuusoo.c...deas/view/48013 The girls of LEGO Friends need more excitement and here they go to the Gyro Drop (or Falling Machine). It is a 10-seater gyro drop powered by a motor and remote control (optional). Yet it does not merely operate with electricity – it operates with the magic of magnet!!! Safety to the girls is always the utmost concern!!! The carriage may fall at an alarming speed but the girls won’t feel any shock when they come to the lowest point. The carriage cannot reach the floor – the magnets underneath helps to float the carriage!!! At the same time (when they come to the lowest point), the girls won’t feel any vibration as the magnets sideway help to stable the carriage. The girls' feet are exposed to feel the breeze when they feel the excitement. The carriage only has minimal contact with the stand, so that it can fall very smoothly. Movie clip of this Gyro Drop -- Former works: (I) Friends' Grand Carousel 10196: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=87068 (II) Friends' Ferris Wheel 4957: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=87882
  9. I'm not really a regular truck builder, but I like to think of new systems that do not exist in real life yet but that do improve the life of, for example, truck drivers. When something like a big tarmac machine has to drive onto a trailer to go to the next building site, the slope of the trailer should be very small. That small slope is nowadays achieved by making very large ramps that fold up vertically for transport, causing massive air resistance and therefore unnecessary fuel consumption. A way to make these ramps shorter is to decrease the bed height, because that asks for smaller vertical ramps. The second option is making the wheels below the bed smaller. But decreasing the wheel diameter increases the rolling resistance. Another way to solve the problem is placing the bed betweeen the wheels, so that it can be much lower, but that limits the cargo width: the tarmac machine can never be wider than the bed width, which is not handy if truckdriver x has to transport many different tarmac machines. Read the rest of the story and how I solved these problems with my my DAF CF with 3-axle trailer on http://mocpages.com/moc.php/421622 Or watch the video here: To give an idea of the model, I have posted one photo below, the others can be found on http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=560197 in a better resolution.[/font][/size]
  10. Boxcab Shunter Hi guys, I've just finished a new Power Functions boxcab locomotive. I hope you guys like it. It was my first ever Power Functions MOC and I think it came out quite well. Here are the specs length: 16 bricks (with couplings) hight: 11 plates colour: yellow motor: PF train motor battery box: AAA weight: 314,1 gram But without further ado, Here are some pictures of it! Front view side view Motor How I hid the battery box And how I hid the reciever the only problem is that it doesn't have any wagons... And I have zero idea about what to build for it. I thought about some giant boat trailer or a flatbed but I scrapped those ideas. Bye
  11. Only two axles through a Lego turntable (the 48452cx1) has always irritated the more experienced Technic builders, stimulating them to work out many different solutions. Actually, some really clever solutions have been found, but most of them cause too much friction or require too much space. I have succesfully tried to do an attempt too, thanks to 3D printing and a good friend, he designed the CAD model of my solution. I can say that my solution has low friction and consumes much less space in comparison to the existing solutions. More of the story and some more pictures can be found at http://mocpages.com/moc.php/419288 I have made an elaborate video about the problem and the process, but I think it will be 6 well-spent minutes. At the end of the video, there is another big surprise... Something that never was possible, is possible with the new parts! http://youtu.be/1OsSGkDsgXs To get a better idea of the part, you can find some photos here: All photo's can be found on: http://mocpages.com/moc.php/419288 in a higher resolution. The CAD drawing assembly: This design is extenable to bigger versions, I think that up to 5 or 6 axles would fit through the turntable. The only problem is connecting all gears in a robust way: to 'get to the gears', the outer gears have to get a bigger diameter and the problem of space-consumivity is back. I found that the three axle design really was a good optimization between robustness, way of accessing the gears and maximum transported torque through them. It is my hope that the Lego group takes over this idea and starts producing it, because especially the three-axle option ore the two-axles through the small turntable could be very useful in an upcoming Lego flagship. So, if you happen know someone at the Lego Technic department, please give him/her a good impression of the idea!
  12. THERIZE

    What should i buy?

    My birthday is coming soon and I really want to buy some LEGO trains. But i can't spend 500 euros on LEGO and trains are expensive. I'm looking forward to have a Maersk train on my layout but i don't have the feeling that im happy with only 2 container wagons. But i can't afford 2 sets and i don't need/want an extra locomotive. And it doesn't have motors. But the design is 10 out of 10. A city train is cheaper for what its got but the details are a non. I could wait for a new creator expert train. I won't buy the Horizon Express just because i would but two of it and my layout i to small for it. So i can choose from this things: Maersk train, i would need to buy extra wagons and power functions Red lego city freight train (3677) Emerald night, i would need to buy extra coaches and power functions Where would you guys choose for?
  13. Hi Everyone, Just want to share a video and some photos of a MOC I recently finished. The aim was to make a compact studless chassis with a studded body over it. The result is that the bodywork can be easily taken off and the chassis can be reused for other models. More photos and instructions can be seen on Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.c...s/night-phoenix Thanks!
  14. Hi guys, I have been trying to make some trains (generally diesel) and a problem that I have always found is powering. for a steam locomotive this is usually pretty simple because of the lack of articulation but wel, bogies are articulated and motors are mounted in the build itself. my question was, how does gearing react to this? and what is the handiest for compact solutions? vertical or horizontal? with vertical you get this: lego 6L train bogie by alterlegotechnic, on Flickr how could something like this be used in a locomotive? would the motor stick loosely in the chassis and what about a vertical motor like this (http://www.brickshel...16/cam06194.jpg) will there happen something in corners? like that the would go faster or some? and with Horizontal you get this Iowa Pacific SLRG 515/518 Mechanics by wildchicken_13, on Flickr how can gearing do this? i mean the rotating bogie, what happens to the gears in it? obviously could 2 M motors be needed for a small train (around 4 cars) or will it fail? I heard something about a V2 receiver? I have a V1 (I think) and that a normal one won't be able to give enough power to both? What is better? XL or M? when will a XL be needed? so in one sentence: vertical or horizontal? what happens to gearing and what is easier when using normal motors?
  15. Hi All, I'm starting to run some train layouts and wondered why idle/standby times are one the different battery boxes? 1: The Rechargeable box/8878: - what is the 'turn off' time? It seems to turn itself off after some time.. 15, 20 minutes? 2: Standby times expected? Anyone know how much power is used by the IR receiver or the SBrick if the box is left on? Both for the 8878 and the 8881 AA-Technic box? If I hook it up with a IR Receiver and leave it on, how many hours should I expect it to be idle if the motors is not running? Thanks in advance,
  16. Quick one, what would be the best power functions motor to power trains with? I have many ideas for new locos but powering is my biggest issue. My latest design (ALCO PA, not posted) Would also need some motors to run. That one has a lot of space tho so That would mean XL ofcourse;) But what would be good for steam locomotives with limited space? And would be problems you would face when using power functions motors?
  17. The title says it all. I searched for a topic like this but was unable to find anything. I am wondering if leaving Lego pieces/sets assembled causes them to lose their clutch power over time? If so, does it come back when you take them apart? Currently I have all my LotR and Hobbit sets assembled and displayed in glass cabinets. I have all of my Lego minifigures lined up on base plates and stored in containers. I keep them all assembled because I am anal and worried they will get scratched up if I just throw them all in a tub together, or break them down and store them by parts in a jumbled mess. At the same time though, I noticed on the minifigures especially that they seem to be losing a lot of clutch power in their feet where they are connected to the base plates. This makes me wonder if all the pieces are losing it being assembled for extended periods of time.
  18. THERIZE

    3 axle bogie powering

    What is the handiest way to power a 3 axle bogie? Im building a LKAB 6 axle locomotive and i don't know how i could power a 3 axle bogie with power functions. I have seen some designs with motors placed vertical above the bogie but i don't know how to attach something like that to a frame. And what would be the best motor to power it? Thank you for helping!
  19. M_slug357

    7760 Reboot Project

    Hey everyone! I've finally decided to start my own thread, rather than piggy-back someone else's. Frankly, I need help with this: https://www.flickr.c...157643245649484 I'm trying my hand at remaking the classic 7760, with full PF components (lights too!) for a while now, but have hit a wall. The problem lies with the cab windows, and my current solution looks terrible in real bricks... So, I threw together an LDD moc up of what I currently have, and earnestly hope that you can provide me with something insightful! http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=554681 Thanks in advance, ~M_slug357~
  20. Hello all I just thought of an interesting concept for technic supercars, that could help compare them properly. As we all know, the real supercar world is a buzz about power to weight ratio figures and such. I know you would probably think this is pointless for a technic supercar, because you would expect its power to weight figure to be so low but, it's still a neat way of comparing them. Because some technic supercars are heavy but powerful and others are the opposite. So I have researched a formula to work out power to weight ratio for real cars, and thus used this for technic models, and have also worked out the power and torque of every modern technic motor: Xl motor, L motor, m motor and possibly RC motors. Here are some power to weight figures from 2 of my motorized supercars: My Lamborghini Huracan *1.3kg *0.004hp = 3.08hp per ton My Mclaren P1 *2.8kg *0.008hp = 2.86hp per ton. As you can see. eventhough my Mclaren has 2 Xl motors and my Lamborghini only has 1, the Lamborghini edges out a better power to weight ratio because its less than half the weight of the Mclaren. Which explains why my Lamborghini is almost twice as fast as the Mclaren (apart from the fact that the Lamborghini has a 3 speed gearbox, 4wd and better gearing, and the Mclaren just has 2 Xl motors powered to a differential.) Thank you for viewing this topic, if you have any questions feel free to ask. If you have any motorized mocs that you would like me to work out their power to weight ratio, just tell me their weight in kilograms, and how many motors it's power by e.g. 1 Xl motor or 2 L motors. I'm not sure about RC motors but if your moc is powered by RC motors I will try my best to work it out. LeocornoProductions
  21. Hi all. I've just come across this wonderful model by someone called Michael gale. https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/michaelgale/15266799517/ (can't add a photo via mobile sorry). I've got lots of track from my younger days and seeing this I'm tempted to get back into trains. So where would I start? Where do I get the wheels and are there any instructions online for anything similar to get me started? I'd like to power it using the 'old' wheel unit (via the tender?). The ones from around the mid 90 ' s as that's what I have. On a budget so would prefer to use these new fangled infrared things if possible. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks ☺
  22. Hi! Together with friends we started a robot battle contest in which we use tuned LEGO technic robots to battle inside a destructible city ;) We want to make a big show out of it and record it as video ^^ The robots have tuned motors and we control them with 2.4ghz system. So we can use more tanks and robots the same time in missions and races etc. And everything already work. Now we try to find new friends specialy for building the city and robots together, or helping record the video and driving the vehicles. But anyway we are happy about every feedback, about your ideas for this contest. We already have a prototype running which we show in this video: And we give away flyers and poster for free as long as we still have some ;-) Hope to get your feedback, Ray and the roboter nerd team ^^ PS: You can reply here, send message or mail to markus@freakwave.de , whatever you like.
  23. Hi guys! My latest creation is this mud racer. It was not designed to be art, but to have fun. Therefore the frame and bodywork was kept very light and it has the light 8878 accu. This added up to a weight of just 600 grams! The steering happens by an PF m-motor because the servo motor was too slow for the speed this racer evolved. The front axle is pendular to keep the rear wheels always on the ground, this was vital for driving in grass, stones and mud. The rear axle has a differential - but not always. Watch the video for details. Read the full review on: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/398114 to see photos of the drivetrain or watch the video below. I have personally learnt much from this great little car, you can expect more soon.
  24. Hello, I am 896gerard, a passionate Technic builder. I would like to extend my activities to Eurobricks. Youtube channel: https://www.youtube....X_uErOTcGpZg8Ug MocPage: http://mocpages.com/home.php/52513. One of my new creations is the Ultra low cargo bed truck. I have not found this model in reality, so I built it. The complete review is on http://mocpages.com/moc.php/396635 and the video is below. Another creation is The Easiest Parking Car In The World: this is my own genuine idea, maybe some others have had the same idea right now... The review can be found on the given Mocpages address. You may always reply if you don't like it, my MOCs will probably get better of it.
  25. For some time I've been missing flashing PF lights. Yes, you can achieve flashing PF lights with motors, but there has to be a better way, also to allow more dynamic flashing options. A suggestion for this is shown below. It's also on Cuusoo - support and share if you like it. Flash element allows you to create flashing PF lights by setting the duration of the light/flash and delay (time between light/flash) plus an A and B version for more exciting flash combinations for your creations. Flash element must always be on top of connections to other elements to avoid interfering with their power supply (flash will only affect elements added to the top of the flash element). If you need more flash elements on the same battery box: simply add an extension wire and then the flash element. The unit will always flash, no matter the direction of the current. Old 9V bulbs would change state from flashing to fixed if current was reversed. PF flash element will always flash.