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Found 132 results

  1. Omg more wheel loaders?! Well, yes, it is the "Year of the Wheel Loader" after all This idea originally came about after my Mini Wheel Loader from the Mini Contest. I didn't want to leave the smaller scale of building things just yet (and still don't ). This model actually took some time to realize. Which was mostly due to a knee injury that made sitting at my desk and working on this model not as enjoyable. But since my knee has been getting better and I wanted to start working on my C-Model Contest entry, I wanted to finish this model. Building it was a joy, provided plenty of challenges for me to overcome. So here it is: Considering I went up in scale due to the size of the pumps I also wanted alot more functions than my previous MOC. It has the following functions: - 4WD (with diffs) - Pendular rear axle - Fake L3 engine - Articulated steering (and moving steering wheel) - Pneumatic bucket and I wanted the controls in the cabin (though in hindsight there would have been no other place to put them than in the cabin ) Some functions I wanted that I didn't manage: - Opening doors - Fully adjustable seat in height and forwards/backwards (had an idea with worm gears and whatnot). This function did make it into the model a little bit, the chair can move up or down manually Something I am still thinking about: - Ladders to reach the cabin. I want to built these out of "normal" Lego, but not sure how at the moment. I am open for suggestions Anyway about the model as it is now. Some more images: Lego's huge diffs taking centre stage in this bottom shot Not much I can do about that. I was determined to put diffs in the model and obviously I wanted to use real Lego parts and this is the best Lego gives me, so I worked with it. I kind of wish I could move the arm back one stud to be closer to the wheels, but they end up touching the wheels then. Since I never designed a wheel loader from scratch I spent quite some time figuring out the liftarm of the bucket to provide enough lift and tilt while still looking good when it actually has to scoop up dirt. Originally I had planned to use the big Pneumatic hand pump (I even have an image of this further in this post), but I needed more precise control of the pump that tilts the bucket. So I went with the 6L compressor pump instead. Now while this does provide the control I need for the bucket tilt it also means I have to turn the knob for the pump about 11 times to fully lift the arm, but I take comfort in the fact that a mini LA needs about 19 turns to fully erect Also in hindsight I don't think I would have been able to hide the handpump in the model, while the 6L sits nicely besides the driver's seat. While using 3 mini pneumatic cylinders was my original plan at one point I did try to put in a big cylinder for the arm lift, but I simply couldn't make this fit with the diff and the cylinder for the tilting. In the end I am glad it didn't fit because I really like how the cylinders and their hoses came out in the end I love how this looks (I like seeing the guts of a machine), but I also find it a shame I couldn't cover it up a little, the diff and the hoses prevent me from using that space. Figuring out how to route the hoses so they wouldn't touch the wheels or the diff was quite fun by the way, but they sit there perfectly in between The cabin houses the 2 switches, 6L compressor pump and steering mechanism. It was fun to built assymetrical, since the pump is on the left of the vehicle I only had room on the right to make a steering mechanism. It turned out to become a simple but effective liftarm steering mechanism on top of the pneumatic switch but below the seat, linked to the steering wheel in the cabin. The turning radius isn't really awesome, but it will do in my opinion. It is slightly less than the turning angle of the 8459. Earlier in the built I was afraid the engine would be too long and that I might have to use only 2 cylinders. They might look a little too big obviously for the model's size (much like the diffs), but I like how it turned out. Maybe I make it green when my second copy of the Volvo Loader comes. I think this is also the first time I actually used the big holes on the bent lift arms The rear diff and the fake L3 engine was fun to combine too, especially with the pendular axle. As you can see the pendular axle has (almost) half a stud of movement. At first I thought it didn't look as much, but looking at my Volvo Loader, it has half a stud of movement, so I guess it is ok. I had to use Technic half pins in the 5x7 frame, because if I didn't the differential could touch the crankshaft of the fake L3 engine if the pendular axle was at an angle. I also have some in progress pictures of this built (originally I wanted to make a WIP topic ) This was basically day 1 of the concept, with the big handpump, which I had planned to run from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the rear part of the cabin. Here you can also see I originally had 1 stud less for the cabin part of the model. I added another stud to better fit the scale and the fact I had a whole other stud of extra space didn't hurt either These 2 pictures are a little dark sorry: Here's "the heart" of the loader, its pneumatic guts. While the hoses are brand new (from a 42008) I decided to use the old school pneumatic colour scheme And here's an image of the loader without its "heart". Kept plenty of space so the hoses don't touch the drive shaft and have room to let the air flow freely without being obstructed. Hope you all enjoy this post and to finish up, here's a picture of my Wheel Loader "family" (seems I missed some corners in cleaning up the background of my photos )
  2. Hello, I like Efferman's Cat D11 so I'm going to make it pneumatic i modified the inside, remove the gearing, there will be a small pneumatic pump at the moment I'm here:
  3. 8851 Excavator Review and Pneumatic Upgrade Guide I was into Technic mostly during the early to mid 90s and I was a fan of pneumatics, which got me the 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig eventually , but quite a few pneumatic sets and parts before that. In that time, when looking through an old catalog from the 80s, I saw a different pneumatic system. While I didn’t understand the difference, I knew it was an older generation and I was intrigued by it. I got lucky and grabbed probably one of the very last 8851 Excavator sets from the local toy store a bit later (could have been 1994, ten years after its initial release!). I was happy to get such an old model in a new box and for a good price (I could afford it from my pocket money, if I remember correctly), and I could finally get my hands on that old pneumatic system. Needless to say I saw the difference when building the model and I understood the drawbacks the old system had (from a construction point of view), but the excavator itself was so cool for some reason, with its tracks – it’s still the only set I have tracks from – and rugged look, even though the design is clearly 80s-style Technic with a lot of detail missing, and very blocky. But the thing performs like a real machine which makes it all the more interesting considering its relatively small size. It also looks more realistic than the 8837 Pneumatic Excavator that came after it. Because of that, I always kept this old Technic set close to my heart. I have only recently returned to Lego and I’m rebuilding my favorite models, so I knew I had to get that excavator built again the moment I found the old pneumatic parts and the tracks in my collection. But there was one problem: I have all the actuators and the distribution block, but the red pump is missing. Since you can’t use the new pneumatic pump with the old actuators and I didn’t want to order more old pneumatic parts just for this one model, I thought, why not upgrade the pneumatics and get rid of the flaws of the old system? But it would not be so easy with twice the number of hoses to be laid through the model’s bricks, and anyone who has built the 8851 set knows how finicky it is to get the original hoses placed… So it took me quite some time to get it right and involved some deconstruction and correction of mistakes I made with the new pneumatics, especially considering hose length and placement. When taking the model apart, I took lots of photos to document the process in reverse and inventoried all parts needed. Now *you* can build your own pneumatic upgrade for your 8851 Excavator if you follow this building guide. I hope you enjoy it – and do post comments and photos if you find something that could be improved! Required parts Before you begin constructing your excavator, look at this picture and the following list to find out if you have all the required parts for the upgrade. All the pneumatic parts are listed except for the valve switches since these are already included in the set. You will not need the distribution block or any of the old actuators and pump. The other parts are for attaching things related to the upgrade. Note that colors can be varied by you and have only been picked by me because I find them fitting or I didn’t have parts in other colors (the black clamp plates, for example, could be gray). I used old (from the original 8851 set) and newer pneumatic hoses because I did not want to cut anything, so the model looks a little mixed up on the photos. Keep in mind the old hoses are more rigid and less flexible than the newer ones, which is why I used clear hoses for the switches; they seem to be the most flexible. Your mileage may vary. pneumatics: 1x pneumatic hand pump with brick-shaped bottom (1990s) 3x large pneumatic actuators with brick-shaped or round bottom (1990s onward) 2x t-piece (original 8851 set has four, but we only need two) 2x rigid tube (Flex System), 4 cm (used on sets such as 8868 and 8837) 1x hose, 2.5 cm, clear 1x hose, 4 cm, clear 3x hose, 4 cm, gray hoses 5.5 cm, 16 cm, 18 cm, 19 cm, 21 cm, 24 cm, 28 cm, 39 cm, black other parts: 1x Technic brick 1x8 with holes, red 1x Technic brick 1x2 with hole, old gray 1x brick 2x4, black (optional) 1x Technic axle 10 2x Technic bushing, half-width 4x plate 1x1 with clamp on top, black (or old gray) 4x Technic pin, half-length with stud Construction guide Alright, let’s get started! Open the 8851 building instructions (available here), gather the parts needed for the model, and follow the steps like this… steps 1-3: Build as instructed. step 4: Ignore the instructed attachment of hoses. Do this instead: attach gray 4 cm hose to center lug of switch attach black 19 cm hose to left (bottom) lug of switch attach black 21 cm hose to right (top) lug of switch step 5: Lead the gray hose through the third hole from the right side of the brick (where the left of the two hoses in the instructions is placed). Attach a t-piece and another gray 4 cm hose as instructed to the one hose you have. step 6: Attach a clear 4 cm hose to the top lug of the t-piece, similar to the instructions. step 7: attach clear hose from step 6 to center lug of switch attach black 24 cm hose to left (bottom) lug of switch attach black 28 cm hose to right (top) lug of switch Replace the old actuator from the instructions with a new one and attach it to the axle so the lugs point to the *other* side! This will have the lugs point forward, away from the structure of the model, after the actuator is placed in it. This is very important! step 8: Replace the distribution block by a 2x4 brick of your choice (I used black). This is optional, but will give the structure more strength than leaving it open. Lead the gray hose through the second hole from the right side of the brick. step 9: Attach a t-piece to the gray hose with one of its inline lugs (not the top lug as instructed). Ignore the other hoses from the instructions as we don’t use the distribution block. step 10: Replace the red pump from the instructions with a new yellow hand pump. Then connect the pump directly to the other inline lug of the t-piece with a gray 4 cm hose. Attach a clear 2.5 cm hose to the top lug of the t-piece and connect it to the center lug of the switch. Do not attach any other hoses yet. step 11: Build as instructed. step 12: Replace the red 1x4 Technic brick from the instructions with a red 1x8 Technic brick and put it on the plate starting from the leftmost stud (see photo). Lead the two hoses from the first switch through the rightmost two holes of the new brick and to the actuator, with the left (bottom) switch lug going to the bottom actuator lug. Lead both hoses through the valley on the right side of the structure (see photo). These will be affixed later. step 12.1-13: Build as instructed. step 13.1: Build the excavator arms as instructed, but replace the two old actuators with new ones facing the same direction. Put an old gray 1x2 Technic brick with one hole at the other end of the center arm, so the arm has one brick on each end. Note that it says on step 13.4 to use two half-width bushings with the smooth side facing outward to fix the 4 axle to the actuator. This does not make sense because the teeth of the bushings can’t properly interlock with the plates’ teeth unless they are pushed so far onto the axle that the two other plates attached to the bucket would bend. I recommend leaving the toothed side of the bushings outward for the actuator axle and not pushing them too far on the axle to prevent bending of the plates. step 14: Replace the 8 axle with a 10 axle and make sure to slide it into the structure so that the two hoses of the low actuator are under it. That way the axle keeps the hoses in place. step 15: Lead both hoses from the second switch through the next two holes of the brick, then through the arm as instructed and finally to the actuator, with the left (bottom) switch lug going to the bottom actuator lug. Attach two half-width bushings on the ends of the 10 axle holding the arm in place. The instructions also tell you to place an old gray 2x4 plate seemingly on top of the hoses, while the next step shows the hoses on top of the plate. Because there will be two more hoses near the current ones later, I recommend leaving the plate away as it does not seem to serve a purpose. step 16: Attach a black 39 cm hose to the left (bottom) lug of the third switch. Lead the hose through the next available hole of the brick, below the two hoses of the middle actuator, and up along the right side of the lower arm. Then lead it through the first brick on the center arm, between the two existing hoses, and push it along the arm through the second brick as instructed. Attach this hose to the bottom lug of the bucket actuator. To construct the connection to the actuator’s top lug, you will need two rigid tubes of 4 cm length as well as black hoses of 5.5 cm, 16 cm and 18 cm length. Attaching the rigid tubes is done via four half-length pins with stud as well as four clamp plates. The assembly looks like this: Attach the black 18 cm hose to the right (top) lug of the third switch. Lead the hose through the next available hole of the brick, below the three existing hoses, and up along the right side of the lower arm. Put two half-length pins on the arm’s beam brick and another two on the center arm, as indicated by the photos. Clamp the two rigid tubes to two clamp plates each so they fit with the studs on the pins, and put the clamp plates with the tubes on the studs, attaching the tubes to the arms. Then attach the 18 cm hose you laid down earlier to the lower tube, connect the two tubes using the black 5.5 cm hose, and finally connect the upper tube to the top lug of the bucket actuator with the black 16 cm hose. step 17: Ignore the red 4x6 plate as it cannot be attached. step 18: Build as instructed. You are done! And this should be the result: It might be possible to lay the hoses a little cleaner, but this is the way that involves the least customization (such as with rigid tubes) and still looks good. It also works perfectly! The model really packs some punch with the new actuators and also looks more modern. Constructing it is still very much a pain after attaching the arm to the structure (who came up with the idea of putting rubber bands on it in a place as inconvenient as this?) and leading four hoses on top of each other is quirky, but it’s worth the final product. The only design choice I could criticize is the strange skeleton of a cockpit. It doesn’t even sit on top of the structure, but is attached in line with it – that just looks weird from any angle other than left! And it doesn’t even have a floor. Still, building this piece of Technic history was a nice challenge once again and the outcome even better than expected. Thanks for reading.
  4. Renamed99

    Lego Pneumatics

    Hi, I was looking for technic set with starter pneumatic parts, what could you recommend for me? I kinda like that 9641 pneumatics add-on set
  5. This is just a concept, and I don't really think there is much physics behind it, but would a lego pneumatic hovercraft be possible? There are lego pressure cylinders, so that would be the air we need to lift it up. When air is forced to come out of somewhere, it has to go out, even if it tears through something. The cylinders, however short-lasting the effect will be, will have air coming out of them, so if the hovercraft is resting on part 99021 it will be able to direct the flow of air downwards, which will build up pressure against the ground, and force the hovercraft up. This part is plastic and rigid, so it won't bend, and if we have at least 4 of them we will be able to support a small hovercraft In theory, this would finally be lego "flight" and the air cylinders would just be fuel. If it works well enough, more cylinders could be added and 2 remote controlled fans or valves that blow air in different directions A ground effect vehicle (hovering vehicle) is the best chance of lego ever flying, so I thought this would be the most practical way for it to work.
  6. Hey guys! I had a lot of fun bulding this little droid, so I decided to go one step further and to build an bigger and more complex astromech. As it turned out it took a lot of time until I was satisfied with performance and size Dimensions: weight: 2348g height: 46 studs with antenna width: 33 studs depth: 25 studs PF: 2x IR-receiver 2x L motor 3x M motor 3x extension wire 1x battery box Drive: The drivetrain is quite simple: skid steering powerd by two L motors geared 1:2.799 Functions: Because I wanted more seperated funtions than one IR-receiver can provide I came up with two solutions. The hatch can be opened and closed. It's connected to a distribution gearbox, so when it's closed power is provided to the tilt mechanism. In the moment you open the hatch, the power will be provided to a serial valve control for two pneumatic valves. These valves are for the outrigger and the claw. The antenna is connected with some beams to the valve control, so I have optical feedback of the valve status. For air supply there is an automatic compressor with two grey pumps and also a nice two cylinder fake engine here is a short video. enjoy! P.S: well something went wrong as you can see at the title of my topic so...Jim or someone else: could you please change the title to: "[MOC] astromech FP-08" ? That would be great! thx
  7. Hello eurobrickers! I am glad to present to you my latest model. It is a front loader compactor truck. The model is composed of approximately 3,000 pieces, with motorized functions and pneumatic system. The 6 motors (2XL and 4M ) control the following functions: - drive (actual speed ratio 1:9, slow to drive cause i wanted more precision for catching of the box) - steering - pump compressors - packer panel / ejector panel - tilting cab - loader arm - hopper opening All functions are RC, excluding the air valve levers that control: - pneumatic forks - tailgate Other functions: - Fake V8 engine - Openable doors - 2 differential - Second axle with 4 wheels Probably in the future I will create building instructions. Here is the video. Some pics Loader arm Full open
  8. Tamas Juhasz

    [MINI] Submarine

    Hello! Finally my entry is done: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=546318 It's a pneumatic submarine. I wanted to make something similar to the 8868 B model (which is the best B of all time imho), but 200 parts aren't much for that. So I decided to make a pneumatic sequencer base, which allows an automatic function circuit. Working method: two pneumatic cylinder are connected to the other's valve, they control each other. The big cylinder controls the two small. : Promo pictures: So the main function is the pneumatic arm, other smaller ones are described in this picture. Video is available below. Made with 200 parts: Other pictures: Thanks to the outer shell with the yellow panels, the submarine is pretty rigid: Control panel in the cockpit: The inner structure with all pneumatic parts: Video: link: I know, there isn't much time left to the end of the contest, but in the last few weeks I was very busy. Fell free to ask or comment, I'm courious about your opinion. .LXF file for instructions: www.brickshelf.com/gallery/mbmc137/Mini-Submarine/mini-submarine-ldd-instructions.lxf .
  9. After much preparation I am proud to present the instructions for my Skid Steer Loader, based on the New Holland LS160; It's driven by two electric motors, steers differentially, and the boom and bucket are pneumatic. Check it out moving about on .Control is by a tethered hand controller with built in automatic pneumatic pump - instructions are included for this. There's also a chapter describing the building techniques I used, loads of photos of the model and real machine, and instructions for an optional pneumatic grab attachment. You can buy the instructions from my website and MOCplans for a small charge of $12 - these are rendered by Eric Albrecht, so you know you are buying quality. I've listed the model on Rebrickable, so it should be easy to figure out if you have the parts you need to build it! Enjoy, and please let me know what you think :-) Jennifer
  10. Hello everybody, Since i never posted something i have build, i thought this would be something nice to post. Since another project which i'm following has took a break i thought it would be nice to use one of LPEPowers engines in an official LEGO set. :) I've tried the SYS I3 in 8285 with no succes so far. Today i had some spare time and made a fast moc-up with 8146 which works. Lightweight body and very simple chassis. No suspension or else was needed, i did build a torsional bumper, because safety first! This was the result in 3 hours: Very disappointing the V8 did not fit. :P Geared 1:3. The result was blazing fast. Now we can call the model a real nitro muscle car. :) When the video is uploaded to my Dropbox i'll post some footage here with a small teaser about a more serious project. :P Edit: Here it is: https://www.dropbox....7lsjk/Forum.wmv It seems like Dropbox is putting down the videoquality a lot. :/ Edit 2: Resized images due their too big size.
  11. Hello I'm combined trial truck and crane and I'm make Off road crane. Truck have 2Xl motors for drive each for one axle. Crane is pneumatic and work with hand pump.
  12. Hi all, Below is my first build of a flow control device to operate a bank of single acting cylinders. It's built on top of Sariel's dual output worm drive gearbox. In this application when the motor runs forward, air is delivered through the near set of valves and black loop to the cylinders on the right. Running in reverse drives the other pair of valves to drain air through the grey loop. Each pair of valves are offset 180deg so they can never be open at the same time. This way it doesn't matter when you start, stop or change direction nothing can get stuck open. The shaft turns counter clockwise and the valves are on a spring return. I've seen mechanisms that drive double acting cylinders but not single acting. Any suggestions for other examples I might be able to learn from? (Ideally it would be a lot smaller but this was as compact as I could make it). Many thanks, OzShan.
  13. A little work in progress I started recently. I decided to marry together two of my favorite projects, the LPE and the Oshkosh HEMTT 8x8 trial truck. I'm going to power it by a portable air tank and long air hose. I could use regulated C02 and have a onboard tank (a 20 oz paintball tank), but my tank is running low. HEMTT: LPE: And some progress:
  14. Hello, Hope I am writing this in the correct sub-forum but I need help looking for an old LEGO set or any infomation about it. When I was at school my plasticworks teacher got the whole class to use what I remember to be a Dacta/Educational set with Technic and Pneumatic pieces. You could build multiple models but the one I remember the most is a dentists chair. It was in a small light grey box and may have had an inner plastic box like THIS. I have tried looking round but I can't seem to find infomation about it. Could you help me? Thanks -darthluke EDIT - Spelling Errors due to old keyboard. Sorry!
  15. While going through my pneumatic parts in my ongoing quest to sort and catalogue my collection, I rediscovered that my single pneumatic hand pump is in dire need of some work. Here's a video, as that will explain better than anything else: While this is great in terms of comedic value [FWEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!] I would actually like to be able to use it. It's the biggest reason why I don't really experiment with pneumatics as it's such a pain to keep a motorized compressor on hand for those random moments of tinkering. I believe that it doesn't really work as a result of it having inadequate lubricant. In addition to this, the two small pumps off to the side in this video are suspect as well. I know for sure at least one leaks [i had to send off for a replacement; thus why I have two] and I am suspicious of the second one as well. I have a picture of what the cylinder looks like at the moment: Notice how towards the bottom there appears to be a ring of lubricant, and how cloudy the rest of the cylinder is. So, my questions are: Is there a way to fix this so I don't have to buy a new pump? And, in the future, how should I treat this hand pump so that this doesn't happen again? When I got it a while back I was happily pumping it as fast as I could go, but I suspect that may have had something to do with it.
  16. Hi all, I'd like to share my pneumatic tail lift design. Lowered and tipped down. Raised. Closed. It's now 15 studs wide (can easily be made wider but not much narrower) and will fit to vehicle that has bed at 10 or 11 studs high from ground. As pneumatic cylinders are 7 .. 10.5 studs long, I had to make the static arm just over 7 studs long in order to be able to tip the platform down slightly. Also the air hose nozzles had to face upwards for ground clearance, so the black arm needs to make a 90 degree angle to leave room for tubes. The lift is powerful enough, and as always with pneumatics, you have to be careful operating it, particularly tipping the platform up and down. I'm not terribly pleased with the platform, as it is of even width, and so you can't really have a large panel there without breaking symmetry. Here's a video of it. The red beams represent the body of a vehicle, grey ones holding them just supporting elements. Here's the LDD file. (Don't pay attention to pins and axles in the platform, they're not realistic.) I hope you find the design useful for your own creations. Any improvement ideas are warmly welcome (especially regarding the platform)! BR, Ari
  17. The Lego Car Blog just posted a life-sized, pneumatic engine driven, Lego hot rod:
  18. Hello! I'm finished with uploading and lot of work, you can see one of my biggest and most complex moc. I always loved mobile cranes, so I decided to make a Liebherr LTM 1090 with medium sized (62,4 mm) wheels: folder with bigger pictures: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533546 big montage: http://www.brickshel...90-62mm/002.jpg boom: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533548 details: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=533547 About the mobile crane: Every function is remote controlled: - driving (1 XL motor) - steering (1 M motor) - outriggers outcoming and legs moving (1 pneumatic circuit with rubber band "control", 1 M motor for pneu switch) - upper structure rotating - boom raising - boom extension - winch (hook) - compressor for making pressure - front lights (together with driving (and steering with "turn signals") ) After outriggers, these functions are working also with one M motor, or directly from the receiver's output. Dimensions: Length: 610 mm Width: 135 mm Height: 211 mm Scale: 1:20,5 Dimensions with raised and extended boom: Length: 1235 mm Height: 1260 mm Other dates: Number of pieces: 3433 Weight: 3460 g Building time: 23 days Speed: first gear: 0,14 km/h second gear: 0,23 km/h third gear: 0,38 km/h fourth gear: 0,55 km/h Maximum boom extension: DETAILS: Flashing light in the back (made with two light brick, but one is covered with that black piece): Lights: Exhaust: Instrument panel: Manometer (for seeing the outrigger's pressure) and gearbox (manual) cover (the dkbluishgray one): You can use the airtnak in the pneumatic system, or not, depends on these two pneu valves: http://www.brickshel...90-62mm/024.jpg Truck The truck part is an 8x8x8 driven construction ( http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936235 ), with a manual gearbox and One Xl motor for drive. The outriggers are working with pneumatic, as can be seen in the pictures, one motor with pneu valve is enough for control, because the backward movement is done with rubber bands. The pneumatic system is enough strong to pull out the rubber bands and lift the mobile crane's own weight. http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936260 - I simply wanted to try out this solution (the original also has also a clyinder to push out the legs). It doesn't works 100%, sometimes a little help is needed to came back. The motorized pneu valve isn't my idea, I saearched a lot to find the designer, but it wasn't success. A compressor makes pressure in the aritank (or directly to the legs, see the description above), then the valves can be opened or closed. The PF system has 8 channels overall, so some functions are together with other ones, like the front lights with steering. One PF led is for light. Crane part (upper structure) The most important in this part is the strenghtening in the turntable, I made it with 4 pulleys, and 2 mm width rubber bands (O rings): http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936256 Works, well, in extended state the boom doesn't deforms the structure. The 4 pneumatic cylinder can raise the quite heavy (3 section) boom, but not in extended state (as most of the originals). The whole boom can be extended up to 1260 mm height. The backward movement is done with strings, not with gravity, it's more reliable. One small Li-Po battery can power the machine, this black button is for power on/off: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5936219 http://www.brickshel...90-62mm/004.jpg - you can switch after the operator's cabin with the dkblgray pneu switch to raise the cabin in angle or not (done with one little pneu cylinder). This video can tell more than me, it took me a time to make it, but it's necessary for this model: Hope you like it. Maybe I didn't write everything, feel free to ask, if something isn't clear.
  19. Tamas Juhasz

    Small Autovalve

    Hi! Some days ago, I created this autovalve: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=534632 My goal was to keep it small and reliable. If there is something, which can be build in a lot of variation, that's the autovalve. (If you don't know what it is: autovalves are made to remote control the pneumatic valves, the motor switches also the valve during making pressure with the compressor. The valve's position depends on the motor's turning direction) I needed as small autovalve as possible, and I also wanted to make something own. This one never can get stuck, I think this is the most important. Some other ones, I tried out, sometimes get stuck when I wanted to start them again or when they reached a special position. For working properly, it requires strong black pins ( http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5955002 ; or the very old ones in 8842) if the valve is new, and hard to move it's lever. The pictures tell the working principle, I tried to make it very simple. The worm gear moves the 8t gear which is built together with the valve lever. The worm gear "ends", when the lever reaches one of the two final positions. The other 8t gear with the blue pin is for going backwards. Sometimes it doesn't needed, but without that it wouldn't be 100% reliable. There is a difference also between the blue pins, so if you choose well, it requires absolutely minimum power to turn. A little video:
  20. Here's a creation that satisfies BOTH the fans of Lego Pneumatics AND Power Functions! fr3dpivo posted a of his "Lego Technic 9398 4x4 Crawler mod with height adjustable suspension, stabilizer bar, compressor and modified body. Hope you get ideas for your mod :-). Compressor design by DOTTECHNIC" [second below].
  21. Hi everyone. Today I want to present my latest build. It is a Mercedes Benz Tractor. The famous MB Trac. The design is not by me. It was made by arhthra08/ vttdirty08. He also provided instructions in his brickshelf folder. I was in search for a tractor that had 4 wheels of the same size. Now if you go searching for a vehice like this, you will most likely find the Claas Xerion and the MB Trac. But nothing much else. Also I looked around to find some probably ready instructions. Now I found the MB Trac including instructions from arhthra08. I looked through the instructions. I knew, I wouldn't build it in yellow (since I have not many yellow pieces yet), but I could build it in red. So I did that. And since I couldn't find any evidence, that it has already been presented here, I thought I'd share my own version. The tractor features the following: - all-wheel drive - 4-cylinder inline engine - suspended and steed front axle - steering via HOG - openable hood and doors - rear PTO - rear PPTO - trailer hitch - pneumatic drawbar for attachments. First, I made a digital model in LDD. Not visible in the pic are most pneumatic parts. I just skipped them (except for the big cylinder). That showed me the progress of the build and later enabled me to make an approximately correct parts list. Here is a render: So far so good. When I had the digital model finished, I could create the parts list. Easy. I just had to upload the .lxf to Rebrickable and include the rest of the parts I missed out. But since a large portion of my parts was occupied, with my version of Crowkillers DS2, I had to disassemble that first. But last weekend I pulled through. On Saturday I pre-counted the pieced and began the building, finishing on Sunday afternoon. I was so eager to go on, that I even built a trailer. So here are some pictures. I know the roof is orange. You are allowed to laugh. But I yet have the panel only in orange or grey. And I wanted to keep the grey for the trailer. Also, please forgive me the ill-coloring on some spaces. But, once my BL orders are here, I will finish this properly. On the next pic, you can see the trailer attached to the hitch, completely with PPTO attachment and drawbar. And finally a pic of the trailer. I know the trailer is nothing fancy, But I like it. It was build spontaneously and I managed to make a sturdy frame and even a pneumatic linkage that works. It is operated from the back of the tractor, since only one hose is attached. Though, I am not yet satisfied with the angle that the bed can reach. I will need to turn the pneumatic and linkage around to make it better. So this is it for now. I am very happy with the result for now. There are more pictures available in my Brickshelf folder (once moderated). I am not finished yet with this. I am currently highly motivated due to this build. To be frank, I planned to build Crowkillers Porsche next. But, this came inbetween and I will stick to it for now. I made some Bricklink orders to mainly supplement my inventory for the Porsche, as well as a re-build of the DS2 and the Vampire GT later. But I also purchased some parts for the MB Trac. As you can probably see on the bigger pictures, it is lacking the front logo. It also lacks some smaller parts. So what am I going to do to this MOC? Plainly I want to rebuild it entirely (once I have all parts). I already fixed the loose gear rack of the steering. Also I put a handle on the small pump and changed the hose layout, so I only have a single PPTO. I found a fault when steering to the maximum where the inner wheel won't turn anymore and want to fix that. I also want to widen the center chassis and incorporate a more complex gearbox and include power functions to have the PTO motorized and a motorized compressor. From my estimates, there should be enough room for this with the given dimensions. And I want to build some more attachments and tools. Todo: - fix error in steering where inner wheel won't turn when steered to the max. - fix colors - include motorized PTO - include motorized pump I will update this thread when I have made notable achievements. Also, I want to give 'making instructions' a try. But that will not happen after I finished the Todo list. I hope you all like the model so far. Thanks again to arhthra08 for making the original instructions and building it. If you have hints or ideas I could use, please let me know. Also, I welcome all comments and criticism (as long as it is not about the colors). Update #1 Update #2 Update #3
  22. After I designed an 8x4 chassis, I wanted to try something new when it came to building something to put on it. I wanted to make something with a ton of functions, and I wanted it not to have Power Functions! Seeing all the functions others have previously included in various Tow Trucks (notably Sariel, Dikkie Klijn and Grazi), and the different ways of getting those functions to work, I decided that Tow Truck = lots of interesting functions = a nice challenge! The lack of anything electric here, really reminded me of how Technic Lego used to be when I was young, with manual cranks and pumps and stuff! I really like it this way! Like all my previous MOCs, it is absolutely not based on any particular real life vehicle, but it is in the style of a European type, heavy Recovery Truck. I'm pretty sure some of the particular functions I've implemented doesn't even exist in that iteration in any real life vehicle Anyways, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking, however I will interrupt at occasions to point things out along the way For some "behind the scenes" pictures and some more technical information regarding the functions, please check out my "blog" Will have to wait till tomorrow to make a video, as it is now too dark to make anything good As you can probably see, I borrowed some details from the 8258 cab, and then redesigned it, adding a taller roof, openable doors, a different grille, some slopes for better lines, and a front mounted winch. The cab tilts forward to reveal a V8 engine, driven from the two rear wheels, through a central differential (placed just forward of axle 3) You can also see the front stabilizers. These should be deployed first, as pumping the manual pumps without them, can make even the strongest sailor or truck driver seasick The front winch can be used to recover cars/vehicles that are just slightly stuck on the side of the road. The stabilizers provide.. stability It is driven by turning the grey 12z bevel gear in the front The rear features a similar winch, for the same purpose. It can also be used to tow vehicles, or pull them up onto the towing fork when it is deployed. Here the rear stabilizers also perform the same function as the ones in the front. Between them, the front and rear stabilizers easily lifts the (quite heavy) truck off the ground Yeah, kinda looks like it's going to snap down the middle.. the curse of studless building But it actually is fairly solidly built! The independent suspension works pretty well (then again the truck is quite heavy) The front two axles feature double wishbone suspension, and the rear axles are live (probably not true to life, but good in Lego) The doors open (JUST LIKE IN A REAL LIFE TRUCK!!) And now for the fun stuff The towing fork swivels/yaws, and is lifted and tilted using pneumatics. If you hav crashed another European style truck, and don't want a crane boom through your windshield, it can be extended by 5-6 studs using an old style pneumatic cylinder. It retracts with the help of rubber bands. (Will show better in video later on) As for the crane, if you need to recover someone directly behind you, you can just extend the outriggers and raise it up And the extend the boom Boom extention is not via pneumatics, but rather via a crank mounted on the right hand side of the chassis, just behind the second axle. A system of gears and crossaxles work their way up through the turntable and to the end of the main boom, where there is a worm drive. Did I say turntable? But of course, with the flick of a couple of (pneumatic) switches, you can recover trucks that fell off the side of the road and into a gorge! The slewing of the crane is done with pneumatics, similar to the system on the 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig from the early nineties. Unfortunately this limits the work area to slightly less than 180 degrees to the rear of the truck The outriggers are deployed with.. you guessed it: pneu-matics! And the under belly shot I think this covers it all Two air pumps, one air tank, 8 square bottomed cylinders, 9 rounded bottom cylinders, one long old style cylinder (18 pneumatic cylinders in total), 9 switches, too many T-pieces to count and several meters of pneumatic tubing later, I had to finish it, as I need pieces for the [TRIPLE] challenge! I also made a compressor unit, that will fit in the cabin, if I'm feeling lazy. But the overall goal was to make something PF-less, and I am very happy with the result! Video:
  23. jorgeopesi

    Pneumatic switch

    Someone have seen something like that?, it works very very well and you can easy put a pump and be an autovalve. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNOyIDnYSKk&feature=youtu.be
  24. Hi EB members, I'm LEGO fan since early 90s and have came back from my Dark age recently with 8297 set. I like it because of nice technical-mechanical base (independent suspension, fake motor connected to back wheels, differentials) this model has. I know this model is now old and most of you aren't interested in it but I'm actually it process of modification with more features (didn't see such mod before). I still have several Technic and Model Team sets from before the Dark age time, however these were before studless era came in, so 8297 was pretty new and fun to build. I've continued on my new collection with 9398 Crawler which has nice PF features and 8475 with Radio control and buggy motors Since I was a kid at the time I started my LEGO collection I couldn't afford any of big sets, especially Technic ones, so I hope I could get those 8880, 8466 and others later As you may see my recent sets having new features I didn't have before. One thing I believe I'm missing - pneumatics. This is very new and unknown to me and I'd like to explore this LEGO feature too. I wish you guys to suggest me the best set to get acquainted with pneumatics and enjoy it. There are two sets I found and interested: 8462 Tow Truck (1998 year set) 8110 Unimog - prices decreased so it is possible find a good deal on MISB set, not sure if it has cool pneumatic features. Any ideas are welcome.
  25. Hello again! I made a small moc some time ago, but I didn't had time to publish it (due the buzy weeks at school). It's al little pneumatic creation (my first fully pneumatic), with 4 functions: A 3-section boom and a little backfill blade. Naturally it works with 4 valves. For the air pressure, I used 1 external big, manual pneumatic pump, because I didn't want that the model included batteries or other electric parts. Off course you can make an external electric pump. It was a challenge to hide all the tubes in a small space. And to end, a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSIAocu7w2g Please tell me what you think and how I can improve it! If there should be enough interest in instructions, I can make them. Greets, Fresko