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Found 252 results

  1. Just began another baja/ trophy-truck project, the other 2 (or 3) being ”canceled”. I managed to put 2x L motors and 1x servo motor, both Power Functions; it also has positive caster-angle, independent suspension in front and solid axle suspension on the rear, (at least) semi-detachable body and the headlights can be be lit (there are 4 pin-holes for installing lights). Heavily modified version of this
  2. Hello all, I have recently built a model that might actually deserve a post. This is a working, running (albeit only on R104 curves) 1:48 scale model of the Pennsylvania Railroad Q2 duplex. PF or PU motors power all five driving axles, and the design uses no third party parts besides #11 drivers. See the video for a more detailed description.
  3. I again wanted to go big on this build. Like BIG. So I went 1:16 scale the best I could. I started with an existing design from a failed build. The plan is to have 2 PF-L motors for the drive, PF-XL for the boom, and PF-M for the rest. Please note that I'm almost done with the build, but I am making minor adjustments to the build to help with function and/or weight support. I will be posting here to "show my work" of sorts and get feedback. I have been busy catching up on other things and building the excavator. (not much free time for posting/commenting on here) This was the first version of the bottom: And the start of the upper: It was looking good, sort of, I had to redo all of it as I add the battery boxes and arms it had a weak structure and was "clunky" in functions. I have remade all of the above and will post more in the morning to not have too many pics in a single post.
  4. Hi Yes, again but with a lot new features! This Toyota Hilux 4WD / Pickup Truck in its most basic version with a simple cab and the largest possible cargo area is a typical workhorse One more extra body will be in the end;) You can use youtube autotranlastion functions to understand something:) Or just watch review and test drives. Common specs Solid axles Front suspension 4 link Rear suspension 3 link Openable doors, bonnet, tailgate 2-seater saloon LED front lights (option) Removable pickup bed and cab Wheels: 62-68 mm Power functions chassis Control: PF IR / Smart Brick (SBrick) / BuWizz Drive: PF XL motor, 4x4 transmission with axle differentials and rear auto-lock Steering: PF Servo motor Control+ chassis control: Control+ (Powered UP) / BuWizz 3.0 PRO drive: Control+ L motor, 4x4 transmission with axle differentials and rear auto-lock Steering: Control + L motor FACELIFT The exterior has been slightly redesigned and optimized, including the use of new elements and techniques that have appeared in recent years. However, I haven't given up on some simple and solid tech-style solutions in favor of smoother slicker solutions like in the Back to the Future Extra Detail version. The doors now have latch locks, since the old locks on the small cab cannot be implemented. The number of basic system elements has been reduced - now the front bumper is made in a technic style with a small nuance - the mounting of the lights in the bumper is illegal and orange tile parts can fall out and get lost. The interior uses a new steering wheel with a diameter of 4 (for PF cersion). If you do not have one, use the old one with 3. In order to prevent using boring monochromatic paints, retro-style colored stripes are added. You can refuse them in favor of plain assemblies. Initially, there are two color options - white and black. Maybe there will be other colors in the future! I believe you can build red, orange and blue versions with minor mods. CHASSIS: PF and C+ The chassis in PF version still runs on Power Function elements, despite the fact that they have already been discontinued by LEGO in favor of the new Powered Up - Control +. Power Functions are quite common among fans, in the secondary market, as well as in the market for third-party parts and electrics, which, at relatively low prices, makes the model affordable for assembly with low budget. On the results of operation, a number of important improvements have been made to chassis: A fairly common reinforced differential of a new type was used. This diff has a larger gearing of 12-28 versus the old 20-28, giving the model more torque at the price of speed. This is important when using larger wheels, both 68mm and 75mm. But more importantly, the new differential significantly decrease load the universal joints. When using standard 62 mm wheels and standard power, the cardans held the load well, however, with the increase in wheels and especially when using third-party more powerful power sources like BuWizz, the cardans could break. The new differential partially removes the problem, but if you modify the model by installing larger wheels that are more tenacious and using more powerful power sources, I advise you to also buy steel universal joints. In general, you can get by with the old differentials, but with standard 62mm wheels and standard power. By the way, in the rear axle drive, instead of a cardan, a reinforced new CV joint is now used. The second important point is the redesigned front axle mount to increase the front clearance by 0.5 STUD. This update is linked to the first improvement. For larger wheels, you need to mount the axle further from the frame. Moreover, during the operation of the front suspension, the longitudinal displacement of the axle is significantly reduced due to the longer levers and the angle of their attachment. Due to the use of a new steering servo differential, the motor had to be reversed And finally, new function! Rear differential with automatic locking in case of diagonal misalignment of the rear axle. Significantly increased off-road performance of the model will make you happy! The locking mechanism prevents loss of grip during diagonal hanging. The mechanism uses an orange wave shift clutch. The idea was adopted from idea of @Madoca 1977 . The rear axle design can also be used with older type differentials. In addition, you can build a simple and reliable old axle without a lock (but with a new differential), in case you need simple construction. Finally, I decided to upgrade to the new Control+ / Powered UP LEGO motor system. It was a matter of time, because new original PF elements are harder and expensive to find. This is especially true for the SERVO motor. New LEGO fans usually have Control+ elements only. First of all, C+ «bad» for its dimensions: all motors are larger in size. The 4 port HUB is severely limited by the layout of the model due to its large size and weight. Installing a hub in a model of my size while saving the interior will negatively affect the weight distribution and off-road performance of the model. Specifically, in this model, the Hub will be difficult to hide behind seats without adding a body cover. In the end, a compromise solution was made - to place the unit inside the cabin as low as possible. I had to sacrifice seats, but I managed to leave the backs and the instrument panel with the steering wheel. If you do not open the doors, you may not even notice that half of the cabin is occupied by the hub. Therefore, from the outside, the model looks like a regular PF. It should be noted that due to the low location of the hub, it was necessary to make the frame as thin as possible at the point of attachment of the block, which negatively affected the torsional rigidity of the frame. However, the HUB is integrated into the frame in such a way that it is an element of rigidity, and at the same time is quickly removable for battery replacement. The drive motor is now located behind the cab, flush with the luggage compartment floor. Using a flatter motor (instead of XL) now allows different main gear ratios 12-20 (standard), 16-16, 20-12, (even 8-24 and 24-8). On the PF chassis, only non-alternative 24-24. Due to the transferase shifted back, the lengths of the drive cardans have changed. The bending of the front cardans has decreased, which unloads a little. However, this low location of the lead motor made it impossible to use reinforced CV joint like in new PF chassis. In general, the weight distribution of the C + chassis is more successful compared to the PF, which is noticeable when driving on uneven surfaces and uphills. The steering L motor is mounted directly on the front axle. The front axle and its connection to the frame are made new. Control app You cannot use the existing profiles in the Control+ app to control the model (the profile from 42124 buggy has a limited steering angle) so you need to use the LEGO Powered UP app, BuWizz app, Brickcontroller2 (only with a gamepad) or Controlz (recommended): Android version. iOS temporary unavailable. The model is still modular, which makes it easy to assemble, disassemble, repair and modify. OLD BODIES You can use new chassis with old bodies and vice versa. May require minimal modifications. if possible, I will modify previous models to the level of this in terms of body and chassis. More about previous Crew Cab and X-tra cab BTTF: AUSTRALIA MOD Any aussies here? A custom tray, bumper, roof rack and snorkel available as mods. Australians will especially like these accessories. See pictures below: Could you count number of storages here? Accessories include: - Chrome Headlights (Designed by NikolayFX and borrowed from EXTRA DETAILED BTTF Toyota Truck) - Power Bumper (You can get it for free here) - Custom Tray (Inspired by Australian manufacturers) - Roof Rack (2 versions) - Snorkel (2 versions) - Fuel Cans (Big and Small) BONUS In the end I've promised one more body - kind of Dakar Rally Offroader Body is 100% alternate of 42093 LEGO Technic Chevrolet Corvette. You only need a chassis from Hilux (PF/C+). This Instruction is free. thanks @FX6000 for Instructions and cool renders Thank you and happy building more photos https://bricksafe.com/pages/rm8/toyota-hilux-single-cab-pfc-4x4- https://bricksafe.com/pages/rm8/-toyota-hilux-single-cab-pfc-4x4--custom-australia https://bricksafe.com/pages/rm8/rally-off-roader--alterante-body-from-42093-chevrolet-corvette my rebrickable account Chassis Bodies Mods MEGA PACK (7 in 1)
  5. Hi, I hesitated if I even should post this MOC here since it is so simple but at the end here I am. I created this truck mostly to have some fun outdoors. It has minimal amount of features and its main goal is to drive over not so pleasant terrain, like sand, mud, snow and even quite deep water. And I can do that without fears, that drivetrain will jamm, gears will skip, motors will get wet and at the end I won't have desire to clean all this mess up. I also very like the closing mechanism of "differentials" covers. It is simple, effective, works like a charm and has satisfying click when closing. This Truck is also testing ground for a couple of solutions I wanted to try out, like drive shafts connected to the axles at the angle, steering controlled by rod or way of suspension for both front and rear axles. Nevertheless please enjoy the video, use the instruction and check some details below if you want to know more. Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-136120/keymaker/trial-truck-6x6-rc/#details Some details and main functions: dimensions LxWxH: 37,5x13x15cm weight: 1132g 6x6 drive (3xPF L motors) steering (PF servo) suspension on all axles completely secure bottom of the truck with panels easy access to all "differentials" via openable covers Couple of highlights why this truck can be fun to build and to play with: Drivetrain - it is very solid, so you won't hear skipping gears, if wheels aren't spinning, then you either broke some part or stalled motors. It is also super easy to use different gear ratio or different number (1/2/3), type (M/L/XL) or even technology of motors (PF/C+). What is more, removing all electronics takes only couple of minutes and truck is ready to taking the shower to clean all evidence of you off-road madness Construction - it is very rigid and solid, you can lift it up by almost any part of the frame and body Off-Road Design - all gears are protected so you don't have to be afraid that they will jamm due to sand, mud, snow, stones etc. And even if something get inside "differentials", it is super easy to open covers and clean this up. Last but definitely not the least - ability to drive through deep water - UP TO 8CM! It over half of the height of the truck. 8cm of water and your electronics is still safe. Internals of the truck: P.S. I know it is rather ugly, but it brings fun! :)
  6. Some might still remember this offroader I started sometime ago in 2019 and showed earlier versions in the 8081 mods thread a while ago. Well, I finally "finished" it now and created digital models for it. I call it the COMMANDO and it is "sold" by MM (Mars Motors). People that follow my Turbo Racers series and my series of 42093 scale cars with swappable engines should already know MM. To show its capabilities I made a trip to a special location and examined what it can do there. Have a look into the video to see what it possible: The configuration in this video has all axles locked and uses the drivetrain variation #2 (see below). The COMMANDO started as the glorious 8081 A model and went through lots of modifications - especially to the front and rear axles and also to the outer hull - on the way to the final result. I created three versions so far: with 1 x PF AA battery box with 2 x PF AAA battery boxes with BuWizz 2.0 ...from which the BuWizz one was used during the video and also most of the time I drove it so far. Here are a few more detailed pictures showing it in that terrain: Here are two pictures showing the chassis construction (click to magnify): ...and here are the three drivetrain variations that can be used (click to magnify) More variations are possible and the gearing can be changed with relative ease, as the motors are not an integral part of the construction: #1 is used for the PF versions and #2 is used for the BuWizz version. #3 can be used to examine the effects of open differentials in offroad situations. The COMMANDO can use various tyres and clearance should be good enough for all of them: 45982 81.6 x 38 R Balloon tyres 18450 81.6 x 44 R (Tumbler) tyres 69912 81 x 35 Tractor (Zetros) tyres I have also already designed a few addons that will be released at a later time - need to create the digital models first - and I have even more ideas for it. So far I have available: front winch rear PTO exploration gear tracks So stay tuned for additions. I hope you like the COMMANDO and I hope it is a worthy successor to the 8081 A model. If you're interested, the - free of charge - digital models (Studio files with detailed steps and submodels) and more pictures are available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-111591/johnnym/mm-commando/
  7. There are no many creations with the blades, so here's mine: Bell 206 Helicopter Features: - Main rotor collective pitch control - Rear rotor pitch control - Opening doors - Rotating propellers - PF: M-Motor, LiPo battery. Video: More photos: Building instruction: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-98383/paave/bell-206-helicopter/#details
  8. Skid steer off road vehicle. The PF elements are fully protected from snow, and it actually works on harder snow. Driven by two PF L-motors, one motor per side. As a power source can be used BuWizz or any other 4-port battery box (not in the parts list). Building instructions+parts list: https://reb.li/m/95837
  9. This is my MOD chassis for the LEGO Technic Land Rover Defender 42110 with motorization using PF motors. Features: - fully RC for driving, steering and gear selection - working V8 fake engine - driving by 2 PF L-motors - steering by PF servo motor - 2-speed gearbox (LO/HI), controlled by PF M-motor - AWD with a centre differential, including differential lock - the centre differential lock is auto engaged by the LO gear I hope you enjoy the video :-.)
  10. I already planned to open this topic back in March or April, but I got caught up in work and stuff. Recent discussions in the 42129 thread makes me feel that inow is the good time to start it. My vision for this thread is that it will be a directory that contains the PF conversion mods for all of the Control+ sets so far. I have created a few mods myself as well. And I'll try to keep the information organized by updating this first post. If you have any mods, feel free to contribute. This thread can also be the directory for Studio models for the C+ sets, so that anyone with a mod idea can give it a try. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42099 Available PF mods on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-28766/olivierz/4x4-x-treme-off-roader-42099-power-functions-base/#details ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42100 There is currently no PF conversion mod available on Rebrickable. I've designed two PF mods for this set in Studio, but I haven't published yet because I haven't made the mod instruction. They will be published later this year. The mods are: - Full RC PF conversion: This mod replaces two hubs with two PF battery boxes, replaces all motors with 7 L motors, and adds 4 RC receivers. - Motorized PF conversion: Because a big empty box with 7 motors engaged in direct transmission is boring, I want to add something more Technic-ish, more mechanically interesting. This mod removes all hubs and motors for the base, which makes slewing and driving manual, and add 1 PF battery box, 1 L-motor, and a gearbox with 4 multi-directional switches for the functions of the super structure. Thanks efferman for sharing the base 42100 Studio file. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42109 My free mods: - L-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84883/nguyengiangoc/42109-pf-conversion-l-motor-steer/ - Servo-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84884/nguyengiangoc/42109-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42114 My free mod: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-85933/nguyengiangoc/42114-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42124 My free mods: - L-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84954/nguyengiangoc/42124-pf-conversion-l-motor-steer/ - Servo-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84955/nguyengiangoc/42124-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42129 My free mods: - L-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-84984/nguyengiangoc/42129-pf-conversion-l-motor-steer/ - Servo-motor steer: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-85004/nguyengiangoc/42129-pf-conversion-servo-motor-steer/#details ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42131 My free mod: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-92919/nguyengiangoc/42131-pf-conversion/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42160 My free mod: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-161275/nguyengiangoc/42160-pf-conversion
  11. Hi everyone, I have been running all my models with standard AA-battery boxes (running with 2800 mA AA batteries). Now i am wondering if that, besides space saving AAA-boxes are able to deliver higher output or are better than AA-Boxes. And, in such case, any significant difference between rechargeable 8878 battery box and AAA-battery box? Many thanks!
  12. Hi, I am building next MOC based on model which can be found in the game Snowrunner. I picked KHAN 39 Marshall - it is based on real world vehicle - UAZ 3151. I would like to ask for your advice with one of my biggest problem in mocing - creating a decent looking body. When you see the photos and think "It doesn't look like UAZ..." then YES - you are right and: I wish to focus on body and look (I don't want to discuss functions here, they are there and they are fine). As you can see, the main color is picked (some parts in proper colors are missing, but is not a problem when bricklink is around, the same goes for some missing obvious parts), but any smaller recolors are possible. The biggest problem I have is the front grill. It looks almost ok, but as the grill for Jeep or Land Rover, not the UAZ. I tried to recreate UAZ grill, but I failed miserably. As you can see, there is no much space for it and I am also very pleased with perfect connection of the front and the hood and I definitely will keep that. Important factor is also the fact, that body needs to be as one piece, which can be easily removed, so the body demands some rigidity. Also I plan to add front and rear lights, but at first I need to be sure that the body is right. So, could you help me a little to improve the look so it would be closer to UAZ body look? :)
  13. Do you think it is a good idea to buy fake chinese pf motors. I bought two fake buggy motors and large motors. If you want the link, send me a private message. Thanks
  14. Can someone clarify small question about PF L motors and V1 reciver? I know, that 2 PF L motors on one channel of V1 reciver are underperfoming. So here is the question. if i put 2 recivers in model, one purely for servo and second for motors, where each L motor use its own channel, does they would reach their proper speed, and would such combination safe for hard-coupled motors? I'm trying to make rc 42077, and have only V1 recivers and regular AA battery box. Thus question above. Or what is better for model of such scale and weight - 2 L motors, 1 XL or 2 XL motors?
  15. ColletArrow

    7760-inspired PF Shunter

    I've always enjoyed the off-centre-cab shape of the classic 7760, so no sooner had I bodged my own PF-9V battery connector then I started to build one. There ended up being very little in common with the original set other than the overall body/cab shape, but anyway. The colour scheme was dictated by A: my existing parts collection, because I'm a student and don't like buying things, and B: an attempt at what this loco would look like if the British Rail Civil Engineers had used one. I quite like using this grey-yellow-black livery on locomotives, because the black around the windows and doors make them stand out against the bodywork. The handrails either side of the cab don't really make sense, but the only LBG 1x1s I had available are either horizontal clips or headlight bricks, so I put them there anyway. The cab is actually fairly open inside, but there isn't really an interior unless you count lots of wires... The front bonnet ended up held in place by gravity and friction rather than stud connections; this makes it very easy to open in order to detach the battery from the connector, which is the only way to turn the model off! With the cab removed as well, we can see there really is just a big bundle of cables in there. The receiver is only half poking out into the rear bonnet, but signal reception is still fine. In building this model I stole plenty of parts from my 20T Brake Van (and yet still didn't have enough LBG 1x1 & 1x2 bricks, hence why the cab sides are so messy). This meant it needed rebuilding, and I'm actually happier with it now - it's lost the handrails, but the yellow banding is a lot more consistent around the ends. Finally, the loco with its short works train of a bogie flat, a general purpose crane and the brake van. And, as ever, the Bricksafe folder containing the photos and LDD file can be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Collet22/7760-inspired-shunter. Thank you for reading; what do you think?
  16. Hello everyone, I was trying to figure the below down on my own browsing forums, searching for answers, reading a lot of articles from last 2 years however I did not find strict answers to my questions. I am sorry if some answers were already posted here and I did not find them. As I am about to spend some serious money (for me personally as I am not rich) on Lego Technic and I want to be able to create custom machines later I feel like I HAVE TO decide between Power Functions and Powered Up. 1. Is (or will) Powered Up system be customizable using Lego official App or 3rd party app? Will I be able to use Power Up motors and customize them into different than original machine so it works? 2. Should I even be coinsidering Powered Up systems for future and creating custom machines? 3. Is Power Functions a better choice for now and for future for creating custom machines? Is it easier to customize controls? 4. Are there any news or leaks that Lego will allow to customize controls of new Powered Up motors? 5. Is Power Functions better for building custom machines than Powered Up? 6. Does BuWizz or Bricks going to support and customize Powered Up? I am sorry, it all feels so overwhelming as for a beginning person that has limited budget and needs to pick carefully and plan everything ahead.
  17. Soon after I've got my 42100, I decided to use it for making something epic and funny. So, after a month of work I've made this "movie" which tells a story about the last battle between old and new. Don't take it too serious, just have fun! P.S. Moral of the story is that the winner hasn't won at all. Cos' all the fallen gained an ability to be revived into different models and live forever, but the winner will stay useless and untouched. :)
  18. Last year, korea did lego exhibition called "Brickorea 2019". And we had a race as a sub-event. Rule One car for one person Can possable use just lego set. not only moc. Any shape allowed If model can move forward. width is limited to max 30cm(circuit width is 50cm). no limit in length. If model use PF system, only 2 channel is allowed per car. Sbrick, Buwizz, and other none-lego motor or batterybox is not allowed. 9V buggy motor and other remote contol system before PF is not allowed. If model use PU or C+ as control method, driver can use brickcontroller2 for contol. Ranking method Racing(racing time) 50% design(voted by competition participant) 50% Circuit rayout. It was a round trip course. not normal racing circuit. All yellow cone is obstacle. That charactor in middle of course is not obstacle. Originally is obstacle but removed. All cone sticked use tape. Even fastiest car chash to cone with full speed it is safe. Car list 1st winner. msk6003(me!)'s 'Porterleghini Muerlcierlago' Original is Hyundai's porter truck. One picture is worth a thousand words. Type - PF Used - 2 Train motor, 1 Servo motor 2nd winner. Fried Kim(새우튀김무영 in korean)'s 'White gold' Type - Powered up Used - 2 PU M motor 3rd winner. Bluebox(파란상자 in korean)'s 'Ladybug chased by wasp' Wheel on front bumper is working as roller for following track wall. Type - Powered up Used - 2 PU M motor Design winner. Nomingi(노민기 in korean)'s 'Lizard' This model is 'walking' with 4 leg. Even can't moving properly but enough for attracting other people. Type - Control + Used - 2 C+ XL motor Crescent_cho(초월 in korean) This car is originally designed for soccer competition but it canceld. Type - Powered up Used - 2 PU M motor Byeolgom(별에서온곰돌 in korean)'s 'Slapdash' Type - Powered up Used - 2 PU M motor ParticleS's 'Two wheel' He bought 76112 batmobile but want to try something different. Type - Powered up Used - 2 PU M motor Ggureogi(꾸러기 in korean)'s 'Banggu-cha' This is 42070 which converted to old korean-style disinfection car. Smoke from car is mini humidifier. Type - PF Used - 1 XL motor, 1 M motor Rumix(루믹스 in korean) Type - PF Used - 1 L motor, 1 Servo motor. Olive(올리브 in korean)'s 'I like bath' This is pretty fast and very good-looking car. Type - PF Used - 1 L motor, 1 Servo motor Macgyver(맥가이버 in korean) Type - PF Used - 2 L motor Hyung Jun Jin(육포공장 in korean)'s 'Artist Jin's secret dietary life' He is korean lego community 'Brickinside' 's lego ambassador. Type - PF Used - 2 L motor Vant(반트 in korean) That QR coad is linked to his instagram. He is normally create lego art but doing first try to technic this time. Type - Control + Used - 1 C+ XL motor, 1 C+ L motor Car under this sentence is made by korea technic team 'DASAN'. First 3 car is body changed 42099. Onepeace(원피스 in korean) Type - Control+ Used - 2 C+ XL motor, 1 C+ L motor Kimkamza(신봉동찐감자 in korean)'s 'Kamza car' Type - Control+ Used - 2 C+ XL motor, 1 C+ L motor Love like spring rain(사랑봄비 in korean) Type - Control+ Used - 2 C+ XL motor, 1 C+ L motor Kwonsu Shin(소원희인아빠 in korean)'s 'Dumper' Type - PF Used - 1 XL motor, 1 Servo motor, 1 L motor for dump function Kwonsu Shin's junior Type - PF Used - 2 L motor ETC Picture with all participant and there own car. Top low(from left to right) Wani kim(competition host and main admin of Brickinside), Rumix, Macgyver, Olive, Vant, Crescent_cho, Onepeace, ParticleS, Love like spring rain, Kimkamza Bottom low(from left to right) Kwonsu Shin, Byeolgom, Ggureogi, Hyung Jun Jin, msk6003, Fried Kim, Bluebox, Nomingi Top 3 winner with there own car and aword. msk6003(1st), Fried Kim(2nd), Bluebox(3rd)
  19. A few of you, e.g. @Toastie regretted we removed the PF connectors from our Power Brick for the control buttons. To overcome that modification, we just released a small PF power box that allows you to run your PF devices from the power grid; you no longer need a PF battery box and replace / recharge batteries. We tried to keep it as simple and small as possible. There are two PF connectors; they both provide 9V power (GND and 9V pin) and full motor power (C1 and C2 pin): one connector provides clockwise motor power, the other counterclockwise motor power. You can control the motor power by adding an IR receiver and use your PF remotes. You can connect multiple motors spinning in the same direction by stacking the PF cables. It comes with an 9V/2A power adapter. We can provide the adapter with a US, EU, UK or AU plug. You can see it in action on the video below: It's currently available in our US/International webshop, it's going to become available in our European bricklink shop in the near future. Let us know what you think!
  20. Hello all! I know, there already exists a topic about 42110 MODs. But, considering I plan to rebuild the whole car (except exterior) - it really would be better to separate my posts in a new topic (I agree with @Nazgarot). So, for now, I just copy what I posted in 42110 - Land Rover Defender - MODs and Improvements. The actual progress is: - completed front part of the frame (it's stiff enough even without any other part of the body attached): - McPherson suspension and front differential module mounts on that frame and is easily detachable (also McPherson struts include new cv-joints from 42099): - front suspension is built with caster and KPI angles: - engine is built from 4 PF XL-motors coupled together (output gear ratio is 20:36), also it's equipped with one-way clutch (it's built years ago by @nicjasno): - given that drive shaft of the engine has half-stud offset in vertical direction, here is an "offset remover": All modules assembled look like this: And, of course, a video of the short test: This module has some little issues (at first, I need to improve stiffness of the suspension's struts - under load they bend a little bit inward, but it doesn't affect all the process of a drive), but it has a really stiff frame and it's a good start point. You can find more photos on Flickr. About the question why I decided to use XL-motors: XL-s have the biggest torque among all Lego motors (according to the @Philo's page). Buggy-motor has higher rpms, but lower torque (and it's much more expensive and bigger than XL). It's not good choice for heavy vehicles. L-motors are more compact, but, again, if you compare torque/rpm ratio among all of the motors - XLs are the best imho. I tested this setup (4 XLs) two years ago at local fest: This model hadn't any gearbox and was pretty heavy. But, as you can see, the car accelerated easily, than acceleration stopped and speed was constant - only because of low max RPMs of the XLs. Theese motors have very good potential even without gearbox. L-motors are too weak for such acceleration of heavy models. Considering I plan to add a gearbox to this rebuilt Defender - it has to be fast and powerfull))
  21. Hi there, I'd like to present a MOC I've been working on from time to time since a few months: It's a small RC buggy, something I'm missing from Lego: Pictures show the V2 model. An interactive 360° view of the V1 model (with different rear axle) is available here: http://pub.clusterd.net/lego/technic/mocs/buggy/ Steering: PF Servo motor Propulsion: PF L motor (geared up 28z => 20z => 12z which is good enough to drive on office carpet and short distances on thicker carpets with fresh batteries, it works great on smooth surfaces; 36z => 12z => 12z also works, but requires more power and works best on a smooth surface; RWD) I initially used it with a AAA battery box and V2 IR receiver (not shown in the V2 pictures above, where it will be fixed to the rear spoiler, the V1 model had it at a slightly different location), but the AA battery box also fits - though it looks not as good due to different mount points, and it will also be heavier then. I assume it will also work with the LiPo box and SBrick and I can - since a few weeks - confirm that it also works with a BuWizz, but then it's more something for outdoor areas, as it gets pretty quick in fast and ludicrous modes. I created the main chassis of the V1 model of this buggy during a long evening/night and added most of the body parts the following day or days, don't remember exactly. The stickers are from the 8048 set and IMO fit the buggy theme great. Steering is also from 8048. It's fun to drive around and it can also take some hits. I took inspiration (mainly for the rear shock mounting and general setup) and motivation (I wanted to have something about as small as this) mainly from this video on YT: ...and some other videos about small RC buggies. The creator's buggy itself is also roughly based on the MOC (video and instructions for V1 model) of someone else. Instead of (re)building this one, I created my own - also because I didn't have a Buggy motor at that time. I also created a V3 model. It's slightly bigger, has front lights (using PF LEDs) and uses bigger wheels but shows some deficiencies of the design: The rear axle tends to tear itself apart in this model on rough surfaces, making the gears slip. I assume this is due to the bigger wheels used in the V3 model. I use some additional axles with stop and bushes now to hold the rear axle together for a longer time. I assume this maybe could be fixed by using a frame around the two axle holes that shouldn't move apart. When doing tight turns the V3 also lifts one of the front wheels - the one on the same side as the gear that sits on the drive axle. If someone has a good explanation for this, I'd be grateful. I suspect the softer shocks compared to V2.
  22. Hello! This is my first design which modelling a real one. (to have some fun: free to guess, what was the original) Width: 7 studs and 1 plate, Length : 50 studs Drive: 2 PF m motor. (3 axle bogies, 2 driven) First step: final version (?) of the base with some details:
  23. We got our control buttons out! You can see them in action in the video below. We got a fair amount of feedback on our initial design of the control buttons. One to the main requests that came up was the possibility to use the buttons in combination with our nControl™ software. That was not part of the initial plan and the buttons were not designed for that. However, there are indeed applications where it makes sense to link the buttons to the software. Now that we have a web interface this would, for example, allow you to control the layout with the buttons but monitor it on a tablet. As such we decided to redesign the control buttons so the same buttons can be used: in a stand-alone way like our initial design in combination with nControl™ through a WiFi or USB link with the computer running the software (the buttons are ready for that, but the WiFi/USB brick still have to be finalized) Another major question was how many buttons could be linked into a control panel. The limiting factor is the power consumption of the buttons and that’s tricky because the power consumption depends on the type of button and how it’s used. The original power brick also had two PF1.0 connectors but as The LEGO Group is moving towards PF2.0/PU that doesn’t make much sense anymore. As such we redesigned the power brick: remove the PF1.0 connectors add a power sensor that drives a variable color LED. The color of the LED will change in function of the power consumption: green > red > red blinking. The following bricks / buttons are currently available: power brick servo motor control button for switches, boom barrier, decouplers, monorail switches. light control button for traffic lights and level crossing lights. The next step will be to create: WiFi Brick or USB brick to link the control panel with nControl™ a ‘Throttle Button’ to pilot the trains. This would control the trains through nControl™ and support our WiFi controller, LEGO PU controller and SBrick. Let us know what you think!
  24. Welp, back onto 1/15 scale Made this little thingy in about 12 hours after Madoca's small supercar popped up in my YT recommended. BRICKSHELF (whenever uploaded) As with my Mini Nitro Menace, this year's Corvette wheelbase was taken as a base - should be compatible with the transporter truck - and so the build began. Of course, drive&steering has been done a million times already so this needed a cherry on top - the roof was what I was looking for. Making a chassis was dead easy with the slim wheels and by motorising each rear wheel independently, the need for a differential was eliminated. Thanks to the placement of the BuWizz in between the rear wheels, steering and roof motors could now populate the central tunnel and be hidden under the black 3x11 curved panels giving the interior a "cleaner" look. Now, bodywork ain't my strongest point, but I wanted it to be ferrari RED. This meant working with a very small inventory (for me) most of which you can see on the car Of course ricer butterfly doors were made to make it look cooler than it is. Have a nice weekend, Cya)
  25. Good Day everyone! After completing MPATEV-01 (video&LDD file coming soon) and not able to progress on Saber, decided to build something from my bucket list. And there was 8258 B. After a somewhat boring build process the final result was not very satisfying, so my first idea was to motorise it. However keeping the model as it is would be extremely boring, so the whole chassis and rear part were dismantled, leaving only the front, bonnet and hoods . Next a 4X4 (AWD probably but you've been clickbaited mwahahah ) with open diffs was made. No reduction from the XL motor but the one in-between driveshaft and diffs. On front there are two gray (old gray - undetermined type) springs and on the rear a leaf axle out of 9l links (idea by ZBLJ). Of course that horrendously enormous fake motor was kicked out and substituted with a cute mini V8. Interior is as crude as the original but now with even less foot space and a switch under the dashboard. Steering through M motor and hockey spring combo, M motor-powered winch controlled with the LBG connector on dashboard. For power I opted for a "classic" PF receiver and custom wired 9V battery neatly fixed with a net in the bed. Overall not the best performance but it's quick yet (relatively) powerful. Front winch is detacheable to improve climbing angle (approximately 50 degrees maximum). I haven't named it a MOD because most of it was made from zero, and the N2 is because this is a successor to one of my early RC MOCs - pickup N1 https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/127500-moc-4x4-off-road-pickup-n1/ (my imitation of 9398 as I couldn't afford one and still can't) LDD file DOWNLOAD Video: (sorry it's 30° outside, batteries died and I ain't frying myself 2 times for some offroading outside ) Have a nice weekend, Cya later!