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Found 5683 results

  1. Hey there, it´s a veery long time since my last visit here at EB. The last 9 years () were full of children, construct a house and after all, design a new Lego room with shelfs wooden boxes and a long period of time to sort all my unsorted pieces a long time ago. And here we are! I returned building in september 2022 and finished my newest build last week. Now I have done some pictures to show and compare it with the original located in my home village. The start for this castle was in 2015 but only for few month. After this the tower including the first step of the roof was waiting seven years for continuing. So overall the building time was 1,5 years. The measurments are: LxBxH 1,6 x 1,4 x 1,25 m and the amount of parts are round about 70.000 Like always (my old threads speak the same language ) I have made a lot of pictures. Sorry for that, but there is a lot to show and discover. The following pictures are good to compare And here are some additional pictures for details and overwiew. This three pictures show how the roofs are made. The last two ones are made with a normal light chain inside. thanks for viewing Phil
  2. snaillad

    MOC: Atom Bowl

    Hello fellow EB members. My latest MOC is called Atom Bowl. It's inspired by mid century architecture. I had intended to make it full on Googie but couldn't quite replicate some of the wild shapes prevelant in that style such as boomerangs. I spent most of the my time working on with the 'ball return' and diamond pattern. Couple of pictures; They are also found as usual on my flickr page: here All the best for 2024! Andrew
  3. mrsniady1

    [MOC] St.Miguel - Armada Flagship

    Well, it's been a while... 8 years since I posted here. I present to you St.Miguel - a real Armada Flagship. It is inspired by Spanish galleon St.Martin, which was a flagship of a Great Armada (google it, if you want). Sails are fabric made and handpainted. Almost no illegal techniques were used. More in Brickshelf gallery Ahoy!
  4. Brickviller V2

    [MOC] Cargo shed

    Hi everyone, I present my latest MOC: this small cargo shed! It's packed with lots of details, which you can view below. Thanks for watching!
  5. After a year's break from Star Wars, I decided to improve one thing in my collection. I already had one MOC/MOD for X-Wing, strongly based on the 75218 set, but for some time there were a few things that bothered me about it. It turned out that the rubber bands had lost their properties and the mechanism was malfunctioning. Plus I wanted something much better and here it is my new Luke Skywalker's X-Wing Fighter The build took about 3 weeks, I had most of the parts so I only needed one order on Bricklink. There are 985 pieces here, quite a lot. The mechanism works on the same principle as in the 75301 set My X-Wing has retractable landing gears and a new type of display stand. Instructions is available on Rebrickable! more about this MOC on my YouTube channel - Edge of Bricks
  6. _TLG_

    [MOC] Lamborghini Diablo

    Hello Lamborghini and Speed Champions fans, The Lamborghini Diablo is a high-performance mid-engine sports car built by Italian automobile manufacturer Lamborghini between 1990 and 2001. It is the first production Lamborghini capable of attaining a top speed in excess of 320 kilometres per hour (200 mph). Building instructions are available on the following links: It is a studless build in the new, 8 studs wide Speed Champions style. I wanted to create a clean model which is as accurate as possible in this small scale. I prefer the brick built solutions to keep the flexibility of the used parts in further builds, and therefore only one Lamborghini logo sticker and a standard vehicle registration plate sticker are used. My intent was to keep the width-length-height ratio of the real car and this size makes it possible. The model contains lots of details: for example the emblematic taillights, the side air intakes, the side view mirrors and rear details with the double exhausts etc... Maybe the most challenging one was the hood tilt and some half stud offsets in the inside structure. I tried to fill every unnecessary gaps and therefore some tricky build techniques are used. The model has space for two minifigures with helmets or small hairs. Thanks for visiting, _TLG_ Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 1 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 2 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 3 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 4 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 5 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 6 by László Torma, on Flickr Lamborghini Diablo - Instructions 7 by László Torma, on Flickr
  7. I'm happy to be able to share my latest medieval MOC, Dragon Fortress Pagoda. The colour scheme draws inspiration from 7419: Dragon Fortress, while the structure is based off Ayrlego's Lotii Pagoda. I have built a similar structured Pagoda in the past but was keen to try a new colour scheme, tiled roofs, and add a little flora. Dragon Fortress Pagoda 3 by Samuel Sheppard, on Flickr Dragon Fortress Pagoda 2 by Samuel Sheppard, on Flickr Dragon Fortress Pagoda 1 by Samuel Sheppard, on Flickr Thanks for looking!
  8. Hey everyone, I got this kinda question floating around my head now and felt like it could have a discussion here. Which Technic sets, in your opinion/s, are the closet to similar MOC counterparts, or even better? Basically, which LT sets are so good/well-designed/excellent/awesome [and other superlatives alike], that these could potentially reach the standard/s of a MOC? *I have to note here that all MOCs (of some vehicle/machine) vary in standards, designs and functions, so this question might be a bit ambiguous Some of mine would be 42145, 42114, 42043.
  9. FlyInSpace

    [MOC] Midi-Scale AT-AT Diorama

    Discovering the Battle of Hoth on screen is one of those childhood moments I'll always remember. So my first ever walker MOC had to be the AT-AT from Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back. And for such an iconic scene, making a diorama-style build was mandatory. At only 19cm (7,4") high, this Midi-Scale AT-AT consists of 924 pieces (1,317 in total with the diorama base & T-47), and is accurately Nanofig-scaled. It features a movable head and fully articulated legs, allowing many different poses. Working at such a compact scale, capturing fine surface detail and smooth, gapless angles for the body required a great deal of unique techniques. My main goal was to make the model feel deceivingly heavy and massive despite its small size, and of course achieve that prop / toy vibe I'm so fond of. The most challenging parts of the AT-AT were definitely the head and legs: the head for its subtle angles and challenging shape, and the legs for proportions, joints, feet, and very slight width differences as you go towards the bottom. Nanofigs (or trophy figs) scale perfectly to both the AT-AT and T-47, which also scale accurately to each other. The diorama base allows the AT-AT feet to be connected in various positions, and can accommodate two flying T-47s. This 358-piece base is optional and comes in a separate parts list, for builders who prefer displaying the model solely (picture 7 in the Flickr album). Parts list also include a string piece that can be easily added to reproduce the harpoon scene (picture 5 in the Flickr album). ► Instructions for the AT-AT are available at BrickVault. More pictures on my Flickr page.
  10. Hello Train Techies! A few weeks ago, I decided I'd like to make a model of a Swiss locomotive on LEGO's narrow-gauge track. So, I did... But not the one I intended! Initially I was going to make something at minifigure scale, and I probably stil will at some point. But during the planning I noticed that using the narrow-gauge track as scaled standard (1,435mm) gauge track gave a scale of almost exactly 1:64 (1:63.77, to be precise). So I decided to make something at that scale instead! You may be familiar with the locomotive - after all, there have been loads of great brick-built models of it already. This is the Re460, or Lok2000 on the other side of the Röstigraben. It's the main passenger workhorse of the SBB/CFF/FFS fleet, and one that I grew very familiar with growing up around Lake Geneva. Although I haven't seen many LEGO models at this scale, it's not an uncommon one in other areas of modelling. It's known as S gauge in train circles, but is more commonly used for miniatures and Hot Wheels/Matchbox cars, among other things. It makes this loco roughly 5.5 studs wide - this model is, nominally, 5.6 wide. So aside from the wheels being on the small side, proportionally I think it's alright! It can handle R84 TrixBrix track, but won't go much smaller than that without further modification. This is my first attempt at any sort of LEGO train, and although I'm pleased with the result I think there is still room for improvement. The fluted bricks mean I haven't got the CFF logo on the side; the area around the cab is a bit too angular for my liking; and that coupling probably won't haul much rolling stock as is. Nevertheless, I'm quite proud of the result. Speaking of rolling stock - I do have more planned at this scale, so watch this space! I hope you enjoy my model as much as I enjoyed making it. Stay tuned...
  11. Lego Technic 2 x 42132 Alternative Model - Mahawk Buggy (Building Instructions) This is alternative model for Lego Technic 2 x 42132 Motorcycle (you need to have two sets). This robust buggy with aggressive view is made for aggressive terrain, as well "aggressive" child play. It has detailed interior with that thing which allows you to control direction of the movement, but without that stick which helps you go faster or slower. Also, it has kind of sit for driver, which might be not recognizable from first glance. The model has next Technic functions: rotation of all four wheels in both directions! Overall, those functions give capability to move these models with enormous speed in lego world! This robust model has passed many children quality tests and proved they great playability. If you interested in building this advanced model by yourself, you can get building instructions download links in description when you click on pictures or video, or below the images (if they will not be deleted by admins :-) ). Images: Lego Technic Set 42132 x 2 Alternative Model - Mahawk Buggy (Link to Building Instructions in the description) Lego Technic Set 42132 x 2 - Mahawk Buggy (Link to Building Instructions in the description) Direct Download link for Technic Building Instructions: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=max.technic.building.instructions
  12. The year is 2003. We're back in Mata Nui! Enjoy this scene of daily life in island paradise, featuring fully-poseable Matoran builds. The Po-Koro pottery works turns local clay and flammable Onu-Koro mine gas into distinctive red pottery seen ubiquitously across Mata Nui. Matoran come from across the island not only to buy their pots but to watch the masters at work. Master potter Okoa throws pots on a custom-made, wind-powered pottery wheel. His apprentice Whe'ai meticulously glazes each pot with glazes made from local deposits of tin and iron. Together, Okoa and Whe'ai keep the kiln burning day and night. Their business partner Akamu is the salesman, tending their roadside stall and selling fine pottery to Matoran from all six villages.
  13. Hello everyone, As i'm kinda done with the exterior, cable management and stuck with the interior progress i'll just show what i got after around 4 months of work. I admit i took some inspiration from a moc on rebrickable from Mr.Platinum. I bought his instructions and asked if i could use some smaller parts like the idea how he did the back light so that's fine. It all started when i was a kid, watching that movie, loving the car and having lego :D and now that i'm older, the parts exists and i have the money i thought, yea let's build a DMC time machine. After gathering reference material and starting on a digital model my goals where set. Make it rc 4 speed gearbox Some light effects realistic interior Gullwing doors Hiding the electronic components Steering wheel should turn Possible leave it without motors as a display model So far i've more or less hit all my goals. Functional satisfied, aesthetically...to many cables. Since i wanted to maybe drive it a bit: Gearbox and lighting is remote controlled Lighting has 4 modes, off, only head/backlights, BTTF lights and both on. Ackermann steering geometry Independent suspension front and read The rc components components are similar to my tropy truck, but here i use a 540 80t brushed motor and 2 geek servos. One for steering, one for the gearbox. Full bircksafe gallery: DMC-12 First i started with building a normal stock DMC-12 so see if everything will fit and to make sure the base body looks good. Also i wasn't sure how to do the planned light effects back then. I tried to somehow mimic the layout of the original car and managed to place the motor above the rear axle. Sadly because gearboxes with lego parts are kinda clumsy i had to place that somewhere else. I thought about a few gearboxes but then just went for a linear layout hidden in the area between the seats. That also gave me space behind the seats to hide the esc, cables and the receiver. Also it served well as a reinforcement for the whole chassis as cars with gullwing doors have a problem to use the roof for stability, at least lego build ones. The real challenge started with the bodywork, especially the hood area, the doors, and the side area around the doors. I first tried to use panels but i didn't like how they were curved and the angles they gave me, also the bigger light blueish grey panels are quite expensive. So i made a rather complex structure to mimic the curvature from top to bottom and the front/back steep angles of the doors. From the shape itself i'm satisfied even though it's not as watertight as some other areas and resulted in quite heavy doors. That's also the reason why they lack a inner covering. But the gullwing doors are stable and with the help of some old lego dampeners(the transparent ones) they stay close and open smooth. The dampeners are placed left and right behind the back wheel arches. Making a time machine out of a Delorean Apart from all the sifi stuff in the back portion of the car a truly important feature, at least for me, was a lit flux capacitor and the blue light around the car during a time jump. The interior is still not fully finished, since i can't decide whether to go more in a modelling direction or just vaguely hint stuff. Flux Capacitor As i could not 3D print anything it was quite a challenge to make one that looks good enough and is actually lit. EL-Wires where one candidate but for that i would have needed a seperate inverter and those are not small nor quiet. So i went for optical fibres, similar to the old lego ones, some drilled holes and some glue. The fibres used are 1.5mm thick. Also i tried to make it like i saw it in the movie, a box with the recognisable Y shape stuff in it, shielded by glass. For the bluer parts of the lighting, when a timetravel happens, i use 3mm thick fibres which again fit nicly through pins so i could secure them well. The good thing for 3rd party parts here is, i could order them in 2m size so i didn't have to use put 2 24l lego fibres end to end and hope the light will transmitt well. 3rd party optical fibres are also way cheaper. I would like to have some cover to simulate the metal nature of those double lines, but no chance except i would 3D print or use modelling plastic sheets. But the cables for the led added to the realistic look as i could mount them where the original car had cables aswell. And of course the needed headlights for some night time driving. Simple 5mm leds fitted into pinholes. So far it was nice to combine all those techs to create something i wanted to build since i was a kid. And even if i need some of the metal parts or the servos and motors, i think i'll just keep it as a display model with lights Feel free to ask questions and have a great day.
  14. Hello, EuroBrickers! I am pleased to present to you the second version of my RC Lego Trophy Truck EAGLE. To be more specific, this is the third deep modification of the second chassis. Not surprising, as I've been working on this project for over three months now. For a better understanding of this topic it is worth reading about the first version. A better quality photos could be found on my BrickSafe. And a video: First looks: Features Independed suspension at the front with positive caster angle. 4-link solid axle suspension at the rear with anti-roll bar RC shocks (80 mm at the front and 110 mm at the rear) Brushless motor A2212 1200 kv for propulsion, Geek Servo for steering, 1500 mAh 3S Li-Po for power Strong and efficient transmission with metal U-joints and metal bearings. 95 mm RC wheels Light-weight bodywork Main goals "It's never a good idea to stop if you have something to improve." With these thoughts I was preparing a post about my Eagle a month ago. Here's a list of things I wanted to improve: Weight distribution: the heavy electronic components located in the cab loaded the front suspension more than the rear suspension. Rear axle geometry: due to triangulation on the rear axle, the driveshaft and lower suspension arms were located very high off the bottom of the truck, which limited the maximum compression angle of the rear suspension, and the entire chassis was not set to the horizon. Rear suspension setup: a true trophy truck requires a suspension with progressive stiffness. Front axle: steering was very sensitive, rather unusual front triangle shape and tilted lower suspension arms. Overall bulkiness of the chassis. Electronics The Eagle V2 utilizes the same electronic components as the Eagle V1. The story of my choice of such components is given in the post about Eagle V1. Therefore, I will be brief here. Motor: A2212 1200 kv Battery: 3S Li-Po 65C (30C is more than enough) 1500 mAh Controller: 2-3S 35A Transmitter: FlySky FS-GT5 Pros: Brushless motors last longer than brushed motors. High speed and torque in a compact size (about 3 BM in an XL motor) Radio control (best for fast RC cars) Cheap components (compared to Lego electronic components) available at local RC stores. External Li-Po battery allows for different layouts and unlimited power flow. Cons: Requires advanced techniques to build strong transmissions (requires lubrication) Otherwise can easily damage plastic parts. Not an easy decision for purists. Difficult to share instructions with others. Have to take care of tangling wires (same goes for large Lego-is designs). Non-universal solution, suitable mainly for RC Lego machines without a list of additional features. Frame & layout The Eagle V2 has a new "tube frame" (or chassis). This is why I decided not to call it a modification of my Eagle. Let's take a look at it from front to back. All important terms in this section are marked with bold text. In addition, this terms are highlighted on pictures. The front triangle uses the same "almost right" triangle with 14,15 and 6 stud lengths as the Eagle V1. The lower tube of the front triangle is made of two flip-flop beams that have been stacked together. This solution provides a sufficient level of stiffness and resistance to torsion. In addition, I was able to bring the suspension arm mounting points as close to the center as possible. The lower tube of the front triangle is adjacent to the flat bottom made of panels. The upper tubes of the front triangle intersect with the front wall. Further they pass into the side tubes of the cockpit. These tubes are made with flip-flop beams, which allowed me to secure them in place with a 15L front cross-brace (the Eagle V1 cockpit was 2 studs thinner). It's worth noting that the GeekServo motor squeezed perfectly between the lower front triangle tube and the cross-brace of the front wall. Thus, it practically reinforces the front triangle. The cockpit ends at the rear wall, which is reinforced by a rear triangle and structure around the transfer case housing. The side tubes pass into the rear H-tubes (horizontal). At the same time, the rectangular rear triangle is mirrored to form another rectangular triangle at the very back of the truck. The cross-brace on the rear wall is made using L-beams and 3D printed motor housing. Now let me describe the layout of the electronic components. Using a custom transfer case housing, I was able to move the brushless motor out of the cab. It is now located directly behind the rear wall. More importantly, I was able to move the Li-Po battery out of the cab. It is now located above the motor. It is true that this solution increases the center of gravity, but on the other hand it provides excellent weight distribution, which is very important for a trophy truck. The controller is located in the cab next to the driver's seat. Both battery and controller have no pin-holes, but I was able to fix them in place quite greatly. To load the rear axle even further, I added the spare wheel. Bodywork My main goals with bodywork of Eagle V2 were the following: keep it light keep the original shapes of Eagle V1 improve the proportions As a result I made the whole truck one stud longer and two studs wider than the first version. Now cockpit is wide enough to fit the driver`s seat. Also I changed the bonnet and the front grill. Finally I changed the very back of the truck to make it closer to real prototypes. I have to add, that not only the bodywork make the car look good. More importantly to keep the proportions in the chassis. The authentic look of the Eagle V2 is achieved with the proper settings of the suspension. Transmission I'd like to make a 3D model of my truck and show you a nice rendering of the drivetrain, like some great technical builders do. However, the Eagle V2 has a lot of custom parts and a bunch of "illegal" techniques like "almost rectangular" triangles. So I will just mark out the transmission components: Brushless motor with custom housing with planetary gear inside (1:4 gear ratio) Central transfer case with 28:20 gear ratio Rear differential with 12:28 gear ratio The transmission is built on carbon fiber axles and metal U-joints. It is separated from the frame by metal bearings. Metal bearings are used in the center transfer case, in the 5x7 frame that holds the differential, and in all the wheel hubs. I also lubed the planetary gear inside the engine case. Suspension geometry As I've said before, trophy trucks are all about suspension. So the main reason I did a V2 of my Eagle is to try and improve the suspension (both front and rear). Front suspension: Truth be told, not all custom parts turn out to be universal. On the contrary, the idea of efficiency in certain places and the idea of universality are not compatible at all. The Eagle V1 front wheel hubs are a prime example of this principle. They were originally designed for IFS street cars with smaller wheels. Therefore the basic ideas are present in their geometry: An inverted ball joint for the lower suspension arm (which is great in general). Combined with the tilted front suspension, they looked nothing like real trucks. The steering arms were 0.5 studs long, which resulted in very sensitive steering. I also didn't really like the 8 stud length suspension arms, which required custom of steering links to work properly. So I designed a new front suspension system that includes: 9 stud length suspension arms. New hubs (originally designed for live-axles) with 1 stud length steering arms. Thus hub does not use the ball joints! The new design is a deep modification of the Falcon trophy truck front suspension, which has proven to be reliable. In the V1, I used 8-studs suspension arms to fit within a certain chassis width and maintain a strong lower tube of the front triangle. However, by using stacked flip-flop beams, I was able to keep it 1 stud wide without losing stiffness. Rear suspension: It won't surprise you that the Eagle V2 has a new rear suspension. Here's a list of the changes: A new rear axle has been designed (again with a different set of custom hubs). It's more compact than the one the V1 had. The upper triangle of the suspension arms has been inverted (to match the real-world examples). New lower arms have been build. Now the live-axle was given the necessary degree of freedom. The attachment points for the suspension arms were lowered by two studs. This modification was possible due to the changes in the drivetrain described above. The anti-roll bar has been redesigned to match real prototypes. It resists to the twisting effect of the rear axle that appear in the acceleration. Shocks "Once a perfect suspension geometry is achieved, one may look for a proper set of shocks springs" The best springs Lego ever made are the hard 9.5 L springs, because they have a good amount of travel and responsiveness. For example, the 9.5 L soft shocks are not as good because the spring force has a hard time overcoming internal friction. On contrary, the 7L hard shocks have little travel and not enough stiffness to work properly with the hard springs. So I used 9.5L hard springs in the Eagle V1 and early versions of the second chassis. I tried to build a progressive rear suspension using Lego springs, but was not successful. The resulting design was either too unreliable or too bulky. I guess I lacked luck and skill, but I couldn't build a suspension that was both soft and shock resistant. It was either too stiff to absorb big bumps or too soft. So I decided to use RC shock absorbers to properly address this issue. RC shock absorbers have different springs that allow you to adjust SAG and progression without having to move the shock absorber mounting point along the suspension arm. I once tried to adapt RC shock absorbers to Lego, but couldn't find a suitable way to attach them to the Lego pins. Fortunately, a working solution was offered by Ryokeen in his Generic Brushless Trophy Truck. I again had to modify the chassis to fit 1:10 scale RC shock absorbers. Front suspension has 80 mm shocks with 2.5 studs travel. I mounted it behind the suspension arms as it is done it real Trophy Trucks and many RC scale models. There was a way to place it through the upper A-arm, but such solution required 4L liftarms. In addition it had not freedom in the choice of mounting points. Rear suspension uses 110 mm shocks with approximately 3 studs of travel. Additionally they have a dual spring setup, which give the desirable progressive hardness to the rear suspension. Again, I tried to mount rear shocks in the same way it is done in real Trophy Trucks. Developers diary. 3-7 Sep An Eagle V1 was finished. The driving tests started. Front wheel hubs are the same as in Hornet 4x4 Buggy. 11-15 Sep The new front triangle has been built. Now truck has a tilted lower tube and positive caster. The differential has been changed from yellow to red one. 17 Oct I stated developing a new chassis with a different set of ideas behind. (mostly with the triangulation in the rear axle removed and central transfer case added). 24 Oct First prototype of the new chassis has been built. In addition to the redesigned rear axle, I made a new front axle with a shock coming through the upper A-pillar. 27 Oct I started building a bodywork for a new chassis. 1 Nov The first modification of the second version of Eagle has been finished. I started the driving tests. The rear suspension has a new idea if mixing anti-roll bar with additional shocks to achieve progressive suspension hardness.... that was a total madness... 8 Nov The whole chassis has been widened by 2 studs for better proportions. 14 Nov A new rear suspension ideas has been applied. The back of the Truck has been changed. Now the rear suspension has two sets of hard 9.5L springs on each side. Progressive stiffness... Bulky realisation. 25-28 Nov RC shocks has been added. For that reason both front and triangles has been redesigned.
  15. "Chess Ko Sebulba." Anakin Skywalker, 32 BBY "Chess Ko Sebulba." Anakin Skywalker, 32 BBY by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr "Chess Ko Sebulba." Anakin Skywalker Mos Espa, 32 BBY by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr "Chess Ko Sebulba." Anakin Skywalker Mos Espa, 32 BBY by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr "Chess Ko Sebulba." Anakin Skywalker Mos Espa, 32 BBY by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr
  16. (Afoland Castle Game. Meronia) For a couple of weeks, King Edric had not seen his archmage, Odrimorn. He decided to visit him in the tower and find out what caused his absence. Entering the wizard's room, the king found Odrimorn, who was fumbling in the notes and muttering something. He kept talking about something inevitable, not paying attention to the king. Edric went up to him, touched him by the shoulders and asked why his old friend was so worried. Odrimorn came to his senses and told the king about his fears. All these days he has been haunted by disturbing dreams in which the lands of Meronia are in danger. Unfortunately, the source of the threat is not visible and there are no leads. Various spells and ancient scrolls also did not help shed light on the threat. One thing is clear - these are not just dreams, but something really is coming. We need to prepare... At the end, Odrimorn added: “You know who we need!
  17. (Afoland Castle Game. Meronia) King Edric called a runner and gave him an assignment - to go to Kvynn, find Gerard there and give him a letter. The messenger soon reached Kvynn and began asking where he could find Gerard. Naturally, every local knew where Gerard lived, but they could not deny themselves the pleasure of chasing the messenger through the village. Running from house to house, he still managed to find the right one and convey the message.
  18. MaximB

    [MOC] North Tower

    (Afoland Castle Game. Meronia) After the end of the war, the question arose about the need to build guard posts along the border of the kingdom. One of them was the North Tower, which is located near the village of Kvynn. Its garrison consists of a dozen soldiers under the command of the always grumpy Sir Norman. While Sir Norman scolds the warriors for the chaos, Vigmar cannot contain his joy when the supply wagon arrives. And there will definitely be a bottle or two of Ormston wine in it! Technique:
  19. Stingrays; Mutant Ray. The Mutant Ray is a redesign of the origninal 4788 Alpha Team; Ogel Mutant Ray set. I've rebuilt it in the Aquazone; Stingrays theme. The Stingrays using the Mutant Ray for fast traveling around the sea. It's equipped with two adjustable engines, two harpoons and a destructive claw. This claw can heavily damage or even destroy submarines. 01_Stingrays_Mutant_Ray by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 02_Stingrays_Mutant_Ray by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 03_Stingrays_Mutant_Ray by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr Pictures also on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mathijslegofan/albums/72177720312894518
  20. Lord Oblivion

    [MOC] Death Stranding

    BT: Orphan More on Instagram My take on a BT from Death Stranding
  21. Lego Technic Ferclaren M23 and S23 Bolides (Free Building Instructions) Those are latest and most advanced M23 and S23 bolides models of Ferclaren Racing Team. Each model has 4 Technic functions: rotation of the front left wheel rotation of the front right wheel rotation of the back left wheel rotation of the back right wheel Overall, those functions give capability to move these models with enormous speed in lego world. Those robust models passed many children quality tests and proved they great playability. If you interested in building those advanced models by yourself the download links are below the images. Lego Technic Ferclaren M23 and S23 Bolides Free Lego Technic Building Instruction download magent link: magnet:?xt=urn:btih:8214FE6D177497EC1976F3091096496E1ED7FB1B
  22. BarfolomewMog

    R2-D2 Smasher class Battle Mech

    So I thought this series was finished, but apparently not haha! This is a re-colour and Mod of https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=76031-1#T=S&O={"iconly":0} I bought this set for my kids when it came out and I've always admired the way it captures the stance and feel of the Hulkbuster in such a simple and efficient manner. When the https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=30611-1&name=R2-D2 - Mini polybag&category=[Star Wars][Mini][Star Wars Episode 4/5/6]#T=S&O={"iconly":0} came out I couldn't help but feel that this was a mash-up that needed to happen! He stands a touch over half the height of my other mechs but I think he fits right in with this motley crew haha! I tried to get this ready by the end of Mech-tober but ran out of time. "R2-D2, be reasonable about this!!!" by Greg Dalink, on Flickr R2-D2 Smasher Class Battle Mech by Greg Dalink, on Flickr R2-D2 Smasher Class Battle Mech by Greg Dalink, on Flickr I had a lot of fun building this guy and I hope you like it!
  23. "Commander Cody, prepare the gunships for ground assault!" Let's give the Midi-Scale treatment to another timeless ship: the LAAT Gunship or Republic Gunship from The Clone Wars. Being a fan of the sleek and flush Clone Wars era design, I thought this variant deserved more attention, especially in Midi-Scale. This Midi LAAT/i consists of 1,015 pieces, measures only 22cm (without guns), and is accurately Microfig-scaled. It features a fully SNOT look, openable front doors, and a removable stand that can be tilted to taste. Design-wise, this ship was full of challenges, with lots of subtle angles and curved surfaces everywhere. Shaping the front section wasn't an easy task at this scale, as well as adding that crucial touch of lime green without any stickers. All of this resulted in a pretty intricate structure, especially for the front section. The angled rear section of the body features other details such as missile belts, exhaust slats and tail cannon. The underside of the ship is also fully SNOT-built. Initially, all four doors could be opened, but I chose to remove the less useful rear door mechanism for a smoother, easier building process. ► Instructions for the LAAT are available at BrickVault! More pictures on my Flickr page.
  24. A_Goodman

    [MOC[ Tantive IV Hallway

    "I have traced the Rebel Spies to her." Tantive IV 0 BBY "I have traced the Rebel Spies to her." Tantive IV 0 BBY by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr
  25. Well where to start, after i got back into building technic sets, the urge to create something of my own took over and i started to look around places where ppl discuss mocs, building techs and so on. That's how i got to eurobricks and the topics about rc and brushless motors in the lego world took my interest, cause moving things are cool. The eagle truck and in general the various mocs daniel-99 made gave me the motivation to create my own trophy truck and see how well bricks and rc components match. It's currently still wip as it's lacking a proper bodywork and might change once i can test it properly(to rainy atm). I'm not the best at presenting so feel free to ask. Quick overview: 4-Link live axle in the back Double wishbone in the front 3250kv brushless motor on 2s Lipo Geekservo for steering All carbon axle driveshaft fully with ball bearings Metal gears and metal u-joints Strong chassis for serious offroad driving Underbelly protection So far i'm using wheelhubs from zene with ball bearings and their closed metal differential. The whole driveshaft uses carbon axles, metal u-joints, metal gears and ball bearings. I kinda tried to mimick tropy truck suspensions, so it got a 4 link live axle in the back and a double wishbone suspension in the front. Havn't figured out how i could add roll protection on the back axles as my first attempt didn't seem to help. The use of triangle geometry gives the chassis enough strenght to take a fall from around 50cm without any damage. Another way i used to reinforce the chassis is the use of longer m3 screws and mathcing nuts as they fit perfectly through 3L pins and stabilize them aswell as preventing the connection to get apart. Good thing is they don't rly damage the parts, as they work similiar to 3L bars inserted into pins, just better. As i said i wanted to test how well rc components match with bricks so the first thing was using a brushless motor. The size is almost the same as a 540 brushed one so it was easy to mount using some m3 screews and 2x 32184 parts, for now. An mod 1 pinion gear with 12 tooths provides the connection to the drivetrain. As the motor got quite a punch and high rpms i decided to only use metal gears on carbon axles seated in ball bearings. Additionally i lubed them with some lithium grease. Currently the total gear reduction is 1:10 including the diff. That gives me around 2500rpms on the wheels with a fully charged lipo and plenty of torque. First i used 9L springs but in the first freefall test one of them broke, so i thought why not use rc dampers ? And 1:10 scale ones fit quite well. Their upper holes fit the pin diameter and the lower balljoint connection got a 3mm hole in them. Some screwing later they worked like a charm. Might even switch over to only use such shock absorbers as they can be tuned better. So far that's all, if one got questions, just ask, if one got suggestions, pls let me hear them.