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Found 816 results

  1. Hi, folks. During last SHIPtember, Ryan Olsen created a SHIP based on Babylon 5 - the EAS Agamemnon. I stumbled across it at the time thanks to some Lego blogs, and at the end of the year decided to build one for myself. Credit for the original Lego design goes to Ryan, of course! I took his WIP pics (here) and final pics (here - awesome photography & Photoshopping!) and reverse-engineered it in LDD to understand how it all held together and what parts were required. Then I used Rebrickable to figure out what parts I needed. To build it, I used the "hide" tool in LDD - hide bricks in reverse order, then undo to play back the build as you follow along. Much more helpful than the absurd LDD-generated instructions... Here's the end result (Flickr album here) - my pics & lighting are not studio-quality, unlike Ryan's! The middle section rotates (manually) and stays put at any angle, so it's well balanced and the turntables provide enough friction to keep it stable. Stats-wise, it's about 95cm (~117 studs) long, 35cm tall and 15cm wide, using ~4700 bricks, weighing-in at just over 3.7kg (8.2lb). I made some guesses as to internal structure (e.g. the turntable connections in the rotating section) and the greebles on top & bottom are my own, but it's very close to Ryan's original design and some reference images of the original. Ryan was kind enough to share the image files he used for the stickers, so I was able to complete the model. I couldn't connect the front & rear side plating in LDD - as I learned here, the connections are just illegal as there's not enough clearance between the side plates and overhanging top & bottom plates in software - however, it obviously works in the brick. I converted the LDD to an LDraw file (using SylvainLS's updated parts mapper here) and used LDCad (which can ignore collisions) to place the plates in order to use POV-Ray to make the renders you can see in my album. I learned a lot doing that! Note that I made some tweaks in-the-brick but haven't re-done the LDraw file or any renders to reconcile the minor differences. It was a fun, frustrating at times, but very rewarding journey, and I'm really happy how it turned out. The SHIP looks awesome on display in my living room. Thanks for the inspiration, Ryan, and thanks to those on this site who helped with the digital stuff! Here's a 360 degree render: https://photos.app.goo.gl/caouE0BlHzarD6C42
  2. While learning LDD, I am facing a problem. I used Hinge Align Tool to fit a Bean with my model which I added successfully. But it resulted a slight tilt to my whole model with ground, which I do not want. So now one end of model is on ground where other is a bitrHow can I rotate the whole model to rest it completely on ground?
  3. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows 32 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Windows 64 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files (x86)\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  4. Commander Wolf

    [MOC] Alco HH1000 Switcher

    I was looking at that thread about compact PF solutions, and I thought about posting this MOC. The Alco HH series is a line of very early diesel-electric switchers (made in 'Murrika of course) produced between 1931 and 1940 after which it was succeeded by the much more well-know S series. The HH1000 was the 1000HP variant of the HH series of which 34 were produced between 1939 and 1940. Because other companies' color schemes were more difficult to implement, my HH1000 carries that of Union Pacific. UP owned exactly one HH1000, numbered 1251, which it acquired from the Mount Hood Railway in the late 60s. It was probably retired not long after. The most difficult part of the prototype to implement in Lego was by far the cab. Ideally the columns at the corners of the cab would be something like 2LU x 2LU, but that is pretty much impossible in Lego. After much fiddling I was able to get 2LU gaps in the back, but the cab is too long by about a stud to accomodate 5LU columns from the side. You'll notice the PF receiver sticking out of the center window. To me the main feature of this loco is that it is the perfect shape to cram two M motors, the AA battery box, and the reciever into a body 30 studs long. The receiver is actually just floating because that's the only orientation that works. The tractive effort is a little less than what I was able to get out of the RF-16, a combination I think of less weight and shorter bogies, but for practical purposes it'll basically pull anything reasonable - just slowly. As far as I can tell having a gear ratio other than 1:1 is more or less impossible here. This model has been about 85% complete for the past month or two, mainly for testing, but I'm about to BL the remaining parts, so it should get done soon! I didn't realize dark gray/blay saber blades were so expensive; so spoiled by LDD now.
  5. Hey everyone, So I recently started re-watching Clone Wars since I finally got it on BluRay, and thought I'd take a stab at some of the ships since Clone Wars was the first series I started making MOCs for. (One day I may show my earlier stuff once I update it all.) I had forgotten how neat the Republic Y-Wing was, and thought I'd tackle that. I had planned to show this off as real bricks but it's going to cost a bit more than I had originally anticipated, so here is the LDD version for now. Anakin&#x27;s BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr Version with landing gear, there is unfortunately no room to fold it in, so it has to be removed and bricks placed over the holes. Anakin&#x27;s BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr They had the design drawings available on the Star Wars website, so I used those to get my design as close as I could scale wise. Anakin&#x27;s BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - Full (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr And then a collection of the different colours seen in the show. BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (3) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr As a side note, there is enough room to fit Anakin and Ahsoka in the cockpit, I tried to fit a clone, but the helmet is just way to big to fit under the canopy. Also I am aware that these do contain some pieces that do not currently come in the shown colours. Anyways, let me know what you think, and enjoy.
  6. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. Images should be simple and clear: no "creative" images are allowed, but simple screenshots. Avoid compositions (more images in one), images with another image as background, animated images, 3D images, renderings with external software, image with custom added parts, etc... Try to place objects inside the image so that the image results compact (i.e. avoid internal large blank space if possible) but clear. Try to place the camera so that the set results well visible. Avoid flat framing but choose a good 3D angle. As images are for preview purpose only, should be not too big! Maximum size allowed is 512x512 pixels for big sets (such as castles, modular buildings, stations, large space ships, etc...). Use intermediate sizes (for example 448px, 384px, 320px, ...) for smaller models. The 256x256px size or lower is often good for small sets. Crop images completely removing horizontal and vertical blank stripes around the subject (zero-pixles margins). Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Write an Error List, reporting if the model is complete or some element is missing or replaced (by a similar part, a brick assembly or any custom solution). Use part IDs to identify the bricks. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] Book or Request a set Refer to "Official Lego sets - Book, WIP, Requests" Topic. NOTE: you can ever choose to make an already made or booked set, if you want. Besides You are encouraged to inform an LDD file maker if you notice an adjustable defect in his/her LDD file! If you notice something wrong in the index, please report it to the indexer. If you use custom pieces to replace missing bricks in LDD, please post it in the "LDD custom bricks" Topic! Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each set, simple screenshots, PNG with Alpha channel, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop (zero-pixles margins), not scattered, no flat view. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Use part IDs. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  7. Bricked1980

    [MOC] THE QUEEN BRICKTORIA PUB

    Hi everyone I'd like to share with you my second MOC which I have been working on over the past few weeks. For this project I decided to tackle a subject very close to my heart - the Great British Pub! So without further ado... Grab yourself a pint and join me for a guided tour of The Queen Bricktoria! As you can see this is a modular style corner building with 3 floors built on a 32x32 base plate. The design is intended to be reminiscent of British town centre pubs or more specifically the style of pubs we'd see in London. The Minifigures There are 7 minifigs with the model. The 3 characters below are the pub workers. From left to right we have the Owner/Landlord and his daughter the barmaid. The guy with the guitar is a local singer who has been booked to play a gig at the pub. The 4 figures below are the pub regulars. The guy with the beard is the typical sort of old gent we find in many pubs propping up the bar and boring everyone to death with their stories of the good old days. The guy in the green top and the girl are boyfriend and girlfriend. Level 1 - The Bar Outside the building we have a busy street corner. I've included an iconic British red phone box and an outside covered seating area. There is also a sign board advertising events etc at the pub. The main entrance leads us in to the bar/lounge area. Inside we have a well stocked bar and a cozy fireplace. There are also tables and bar stool for the minifigs to sit and enjoy their drinks. Brown carrots make pretty good beer pump handles. At the back of the bar is a staircase leading us up to level 2. Level 2 - Pool and Darts Room On the second level is a games room featuring a Pool table and Dart board. There is also a pool cue rack and a shelf with trophies won by the resident darts team. At the back of the room is another staircase that leads to level 3. Level 3 - Live Music Room Level 3 has a stage for Live Music gigs and Karaoke. On the stage we have a keyboard, guitar, amps and microphone. Also on this level is more seating for the minifigs and a door that leads to a small balcony seating area. Oh dear!!! The singer seems to be a bit of a hit with the ladies. The Finished Model Here is a picture of the Queen Bricktoria next to my first MOC design, The Convenience store, as you can see my new MOC is much much bigger. Another picture below shows the pub next to one of the official modulars, to help give a sense of the size of the model. Thanks very much for reading and I hope you like my newest MOC. There are more pictures of it on my Flickr page so feel free to check them out and let me know what you think.
  8. Hello every one. if you were waiting for a long time to have some Nebulon Frigs, the last days and months served you ! Few day ago mortesv presented you his (beautiful) new version of the Redemption and last january I presented you mine (http://www.eurobrick...ac#entry2443496). But during this time I continued working on it with a double objective : - having a better bearing - having a better respect of the general proportions BUT I didn't want any compromises with the stability, modularity and resilience of the MOC, and I wanted to keep the size of it. I wanted a Lego accessible to everyone, and that could be exposed with no fear of destruction : you can move it easily and hustle it without major destruction. So I worked hard, and braved the wrath of my wife to obtain a new version. I entirely recreate the frame and I worked for a very well balanced frame and tough model The old one was a 3662 pieces / 75 cm long. The new one is around 4200 pieces / 85 cm long and... just better. I also worked to obtain a usable LDD instruction. I create a homemade pdf instructions too. So the wanted list + LDD + homemade pdf instructions are available for who want them (10 €). Because everyone will want compare with last beautiful version of mortesv, I only have to remember you that you won't compare the same conception of MOC : one is over 5000 pieces and the other is 20% less pieces. One is around 120cm and the other is 85 cm. It is obvious that the bigger one will be more detailed. Other point to remember : one is 100 % focused towards respect of proportions and details. The other is focused towards a compromise of details and strenght. Enjoy :) The concept of this MOC is to combine detail and not to big realisation. I tried to fine the best compromise between realistic frame with 2 small + discreet bearings and no extra supports (front and / or middle), and respect of original movie ship. The 2 mounts give a very stable MOC, which can be moved with no problems. The major problem with the conception of a such Lego is not to obtain a very detailed MOC, but find a feasible strong frame wich give a Lego able to sustain itself. I think that the picture give a good idea of what this moc is able to. No need to retouch the photo : no support and strong frame :p The Front : More details of the front. The LDD instruction I give are not made with sand green but tan colors because sand green is more expansive. But the tan can be replaced by this so beautiful green... The Back : The other back side. I tried to maximize the details degree. I used trans blue pieces for windows to help the comprehension of the size and give some life to the MOC. The center arch and Falcon : The center tube is cylindrical. The modularity : The moc is 100 % modular. You can disassemble it easily to show it in any convention ! ;) The instructions : The LDD instructions are usable. My homemade instructions will help you if you have doubt with LDD files. Please free to comment ! :)
  9. Inspired by the Speed Champions cars. Last year I built a car showroom to show them off. Al's Autos is built on 3 large baseplates. On the left baseplate the blue and white sign has doubled sided brick plate writing and rotates on a Technic turntable. The showroom has a roller door entry behind the office on the left. It is fully tiled inside and lit with PF LEDs. On the right baseplate the brown turntable also rotates on a Technic turntable. The footpath is designed to match up to the Modular footpaths. My own creation cars are a Pick Up truck with removable Camper. A Ford GT40 reverse engineered from a LEGO YouTube movie. The black Pontiac is a KITT replica and has a working red LED scanner in the front. Next was a service centre / workshop for the showroom.The back section is a parts department. On the right are two service bays. The front one has a working Technic pneumatic hoist. Also PF LED lighting. The shipping containers can fit a Speed Champions car or spare parts. To keep the cars clean I next built a car wash. This has a working Technic based linear actuator to move the brushes back and forward over the car. So after a long day. It's off to the Drive In movies. The diner has a projection room, kitchen, counter, seating and toilet. My own creation cars are two NYPD police cars with working light bars. A yellow NY taxi. The two Porsche 911's are modified with brick headlights and door handles. The ambulance has working LED light bars, headlights and taillights One day I will get around to doing close up and interior photos.
  10. Hi, In theory, should be coming a new update for LDD, no?? Someone knows something about that?
  11. I really liked Nexo Knights, and I really liked all the little nods towards older castle themes without established locations potentially taking place in its world. So, I decided to try and create a Nexo Knights-refurbished version of two classic sets from the Fright Knights using LDD: Witch's Magic Manor & Night Lord's Castle, albeit combined into one, so that the Magic Manor serves as a sort of hideout/base under the Night Lord's Castle. The bit that I am currently stuck on is a suitable castle gate. The simple wooden doors of the official Knighton Castle set looked a bit weird, and as such I am trying to create a more sci-fi looking portcullis structure or portcullis alternative, in tr. neon orange of course. So far, I have tried using a bunch of 30064 stud/stick pieces (difficult to create a suitably sized structure without running into difficulty connecting the two sets of bars into a structure that can move as a single piece), the large sword pieces from Clay's mechsuit (as with the original use, strange-looking due to the lack of depth combined with the pattern and width) and finally the 4218 rolling gate pieces (serviceable, except the only source of these in tr. neon orange is over two decades old, and I'd like to actually be able to build this thing in real life at some point). If anyone has any recommendations, I'd be glad to hear them.
  12. Xon67

    Assembling Bricksburg

    edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: Octan reception: LEGO Movie 2 logo The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_emmetsmech_2017-07-20.lxf Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Train bridge Monorail stop .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/_movie_train_stop_stairs_alt3.lxf Downtown plaza Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_coffee_chain.lxf Downtown Bricksburg and the Kragle antidote. Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Construction Site Update: Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Emmet's mech Emmet's mech compared to the official set Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan offices. Octan Control Room. Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room Lord Business' ThinkTank Octan flying cube. The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture A surprise Christmas tree for Bad Cop Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees End Title Concept End credits: Movie Theater End credits: WyldStyle's tag End credits: Music End credits: Movie premiere End credits: Kragle End credits: Taco Tuesday End credits: Consessions End credits: Secret Police End credits: Sound stage End credits: Construction End credits: Warehouse More on the way!
  13. Right, I have been asked to create this thread to raise awareness. I am spearheading a way to solve this, as I have knowledge in this sector. We have someone in our community that has been taking LDD files that don't belong to him, has been making videos on them without the original designers permission, and most importantly has been selling the designs as instructions when he has no right or legal standpoint to do so. Now, this is not giving anyone the right to give this guy 'hate' as it will not make the situation any better. Firstly, I recommend you read the thread created by @Tenderlok, that started nearly a day ago, and has brought this to the forefront: And especially this bit that I wrote just recently in there: "I stayed up late trying to sort this and eventually went to bed. I'm now ready to get back to it... Today I am incredibly disappointed by @Jimbricked... It seems he isn't listening, he seems infact to be saying one thing, doing another... I'm beyond frustrated with this situation, so this is closer to the line that we as community should take: Therefore, I am going to post in here and also create a thread in general. Here is his youtube channel: https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCGzMhduUjLlnpBRHTaOJ8Aw (Hope the link works, if not, tell me and I'll correct it, I'm doing this fast.) This is not to open the door to giving him 'hate', this is a group approach to solve this, and I need help as I am only one man. In terms of consequences, this will now be in a far less beneficial light for @Jimbricked, because of his lack of action. He is now likely going to have to remove videos on people asking, or otherwise get an awful lot of copyright strikes... - Right, the plan: 1. Go on his channel. 2. Look though all his videos, and: (a) If they're your LDD designs, contact him and ask him to delete them, as it doesn't look like he's going to be contacting you anytime soon... If he doesn't respond, fill out the infringement form on Youtube. (b) If you directly know who the LDD design originally belongs to, could you please find contact details for the designer in question, and pop them a message explaining the stolen material is monetized and also has instructions being sold by Jimbricked. From there the designer needs ask him to delete them, and again, if he doesn't respond, they should fill out the infringement form on Youtube. - Therefore, we have legally forfilled the correct approach, by asking first, then if no response, using Youtube's tools to deal with it. - Now @Jimbricked, as you may know, if too many people send copyright strikes on your channel, Youtube is within their rights to terminate your channel... I recommend you cooperate with this or Youtube could in a sense 'slap the book at you' and you'll be left with no channel at all. I have seen this happen. - The other approach which could save everyone time would be to delete every piece of content (video) in which you have used LDD files without permission. That would leave you with the designs you have created entirely yourself, and the possibility of being able to continue uploading your designs in video form to Youtube. In this scenario, you can sell your own designs, but not those belonging to others as well... - I hope I have made myself abundantly clear... Regards, James - P.S. Any questions please ask." The "plan" part specifically is what I need help with. So, any would be much appreciated to solve this. If you know anyone affected in the form of stolen material please do get in touch with them, if you don't have contact details for them, please refer it to me and I will either search for info and contact them or get someone else on it with more links. Thank you for reading this, I love this community and want this whole situation in a better position in the next 24 hours than it has been in the last. James
  14. Hello everyone 1- I hope this subject is in the right place. 2- Sorry for my bad english I think you all have at one time or another during a construction, wanted to have a room that does not exist to carry out your project. So, you've probably imagined several over the years. 1- I imagined myself to create several in recent days (others to come) You can find them on Flickr HERE you can react on what you see. 2- Would you like to propose some already, in 3D or other? I opened a group for: - the techniques, - tutorials - new coins 1 month ago on Flickr HERE 3- Do you have any ideas? => Could you describe by embellishing an image that you would like to have? I can try to create on request if my limitation 2D (photoshop) allows it. By the way for your information, I also realized baseplates that are on Flickr. I would like your opinions, your reactions, your proposals ... TYVM Some exemples:
  15. Hello Everyone, It is Christmas time again, so here is my new Advent Calendar! This year, I chose to have a collaboration with my friend here in Eurobricks, Robert8, and his wonderful CMF ideas. There are hundreds of great minifigs there, so I made renders from 24 of them. There are some which I already made, and many use newly created molds, that are not in the LEGO database, but plenty of them can be made. Take care, that I didn't copy them, most of the printings are self-made, and I made slight alterations from time to time. Let's say they are "heavily based" on Robert8's ideas. I can tell, that I chose at least one from each series, but some of them were more preferred than others. So let's start! Day 1 - Country Singer - Series C
  16. Hello all! Be warned, large images will be in this thread. Please be amazed and hopefully the moderators will be too :D ------------------- First time posting here, so howdy. lol I have already been infecting your discord channel before I even became an official member :P A little about me before I start what this topic is about: I work on building the instructions for installing curtain wall & storefronts as an real life job. So I work in the 2D & 3D architectural industry for a living. And I use Blender as an addictive hobby on the side. Go figure. My goal is to start making 5+ minute animations in only a 3D environment, as while I do have legos, I don't have the space for a full on film studio. I hope to enjoy a long stay with everyone here! I love to share my trade secrets to 3D modeling if your ever interested! ----------------------- On to my topic now: Please see below my work so far making 3D Lego animations. (I apologize for not obeying the 800px square) Thanks all, I will be updating this regularly! T_D
  17. Me again - exercising some more SciFi TV show nerdism. As I was wrapping up the Schwarzkopf, I found an awesome LDD MOC on Flickr by CK-MCMLXXXI (don't know if they're on Eurobricks), and decided to try to reverse-engineer it, similar to how I ended up building Agamemnon - except in this case I only had 3 pics (4 angles) to go from, and no clues to go by for the internals. The designer wasn't sharing the LDD files (which is totally fair - I won't share mine for this either to stay true to that) but I said I'd love to build it, and they challenged me to do so... Challenge accepted! I managed to make something pretty close to their original but had to make some changes as I couldn't make all the bodywork angles match the original design perfectly. Some of the angles for the head were a nightmare to figure out - I had to do an ugly colourbarf mock-up IRL to test whether it was even possible or not! But yep, all the connections are legal in LDD this time - and I think there's enough clutch-power and structure in the 6 supports to hold up the sidepods IRL. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out - Bluerender did a great job for the shots below, after I did some lighting experimentation. It's 3455 bricks, but I'm not sure they're all available in all the colours - haven't checked that yet... LxWxH it's 65x35x14 studs/bricks, or 522x280x136mm, according to MLCad. I'd add some stickers to it if I was actually building it IRL, but I currently have no plans to do so (the wife thinks it looks too "stubby" )... More pics including some LDD WIP screenshots are available in my Flickr album, and here's a 360 render as a bonus: Hope the other BSG series fans out there like it! ;) I guess now I've done "The Beast" I should try the Galactica and/or a Cylon Basestar someday... if I could do them in the same scale that'd be pretty sweet, but that may be a stretch-goal too far!
  18. The Mugbearer

    The Vahki

    Vahki were the mechanical law enforcers designed by Nuparu that kept order in the more dystopian times in the city of Metru Nui. Making Onu-Metru their home and the Great Archives their domain, Rorzakhs used their Staves of Presence to spy on the Matoran suspects, routing out illegal trade hubs and Matoran Underworld hideouts. Stalking the ramparts and scaffolds of ta-Metru, Nuurakhs used their Staves of Command, forcing the Ta-Matoran to turn their undivided attention to the work at hand, sometimes to the point of complete exhaustion. Overseeing the district from the rooftops of the crystalline spires of Ko-Metru, the Keerakhs ensured peace by using their Staves of Confusion, making any troublemakers lose their sense of time and space long enough for Vahki to apprehend them. Stalking the canals of Ga-Metru, the Bordakhs used their Staves of Loyalty to make the Matoran delinquents willingly hand over their accomplices and reveal the locations of hidden Matoran Underworld hideouts. Stomping the badlands of Po-Metru, the Zadakhs employed their Staves of Suggestion to soften up the minds of even the most rock-hard stubborn Po-Matoran. Watching over the hubs of Le-Metru, Vorzakhs possessed Staves of Erasing. Considered the most terrifying of all Vahki Staff powers, Staff of Erasing was capable of temporarily stripping the target of any higher mental functioning, leaving them shambling along the streets of Le-Metru without a thought or reason. This was a huge undertaking. It took me a lot of time, energy and motivation to not only put the staves together, but also pose the models in an appealing way, as well as create interesting backgrounds/scenes to put them in. For me as a content creator this set of models is a bit of a milestone as I have started to employ heavily the vector graphics using Adobe Photoshop. Vectors are hella fun but also a handful! I am glad I am doing them though. With some of those I struggled a lot, and in these moments I received help from my spouse Demitsorou who is an amazing artist and you totally should check them out. I've no idea where to go from here, but I guess up is a good direction?.. Anyway, thank you for reading this and checking out my newest creations. <3
  19. Hello all, im not a very experienced train builder, but since i saw the movie "Unstoppable", i got inspiration to build trains, so, i made my own version of the 777 train of the movie in LDD, which if im not wrong its a BNSF GE C44-9W, so here it goes: Im not very talented for the aesthetics, thats why it is a bit ugly, it was supposed to have a yellow stripe on the sides, but i think it would look much better with stickers, however, i will see if i can make of bricks. I decided to make it 8 wide, to have more space for details and to make it more scale-realistic. The propulsion system its done by one battery box, one sbrick and 2 XL motors for each locomotive: And this is how it steers (it still can steer to take the normal curves) I hope you like it, i will try to post more pics of the working parts. Thanks.
  20. Hello everyone, as promised here are my AAT and DDT MOCs. AAT - Armored Assault Tank While LEGOs Clone Wars AAT is actually very close to minifig scale, many of the proportions just aren't quite right. I changed the front sections shape a fair bit, as the actual tank isn't quite so round. It sort of flattens out in the middle, I also added the scoop in the front. In cross-section images it shows that the front domed peace is actually also a hatch, so I added that functionality since it was already on a hinge. There is enough room in the turret for a full droid, even with the hatch closed, you just need to fold the head down. The rear hatch can also open, revealing the droid crew, 1 driver and 2 gunners. Also did a palette swap for the AAT Lok Durd rides around in. DDT - Defoliator Deployment Tank The DDT design-wise isn't too different from the AAT. Shaping the stabilizers wasn't the easiest, but I think they came out alright. The turret itself wasn't too difficult to design, but oddly enough getting the grated platform along the side proved rather annoying. I had to leave it for a while and come at it with different perspective. As always, hope you enjoy.
  21. Hey everyone, hope everyone has been doing well. I've been busy working away at expanding my minifig scale MOC collection (Still only digitally atm). And thought I'd bring you something that I haven't really seen around anywhere. A minifig scale Hyena-class Bomber. This one was pretty tricky, but I think it came together rather well in the end. The official LEGO Hyena bomber was alright, but left a lot to be desired. The overall shaping of the ship was kind of off and the walking mode looked nothing like the source material. My goal was to get mine as close as I could and keep it in line with my other minifig scale builds. This was a little harder than I had anticipated, and I had to make one sacrifice right off the bat. There was no way that I could get the legs to physically retract the way they do on the actual ship, even more so at this scale. So unfortunately there is a small bit of "parts-forming" required between modes, but I made it as little as possible. I was able to get the wing mounts to extend out of the main body to allow upper leg movement though. The other thing that always made the model look wrong was using the head build method established by LEGO. While the stickers used to make up the "face" look nice, the overall head shape is left extremely flat. It took a week or so of playing with parts, but I was finally able to come up with a brick-built head design I was happy with. While it may not be perfect, for the most part has the general shaping of the actual Hyena bomber. I then utilized variations of the technique to build the other head-like shapes on the ship, including the targeting head below. I've also included a couple photos with some of my other MOCs for size comparison. Prior to working on the Hyena bomber, I had built a minifig scale Vulture droid, but was unhappy with the stock LEGO style head. However after figuring out the head for the Hyena bomber it wasn't too hard to down-scale to get a suitable head for it too. So since they are fairly similar I'm including the pictures of it here as well. Both ships were designed to use The Clone Wars colour schemes, although it could be debated that they Hyena should be sand blue rather than DBG, but given that practically none of the pieces come in that colour, there wasn't much choice. There are scenes from the show where it does look more grey that blue anyways. As always, hope you enjoy! I'll be back soon with my minifig scale ATT and DDT.
  22. So a few years back I set out to make my first Star Wars MOC (as an adult that is). I was really into The Clone Wars and decided to start with something small. I finally decided on the Delta-7B, as it was featured heavily in the series. And I had a bigger goal that I was aiming for, that it would be a part of. This was my first minifig scaled MOC, long before my Ghost, Phantom, etc. Though I've had these sitting on my desk for years, it wasn't until recently that a few new pieces came out that finally added the finishing touches to them. So I've finally decided to show them off, in lieu of the bigger thing I'll be showing in the "hopefully" near future. So lets just jump into it. Anakin and Ahsoka's Delta-7Bs. Delta-7B (1) Delta-7B (2) Closer look at Anakin's. Anakin&#x27;s Delta-7B (1) Anakin&#x27;s Delta-7B (4) Closer look at Ahsoka's. Ahsoka&#x27;s Delta-7B (1) Ahsoka&#x27;s Delta-7B (4) I also designed Hyperdrive Ring's for them. But haven't built either yet. Anakin&#x27;s Hyperdrive Ring (1) Ahsoka Hyperdrive Ring (1) And just for a size comparison, with my Phantom. Delta-7B (4) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr Hope you enjoy. IcarusBuilds
  23. Hi everyone. I took some time to show you guys how to enable LDD's developer mode and all the tings it can do. Here are a just a few examples of the things you can do in dev. mode: You can render bricks in wireframe: You can use the various rendering modes to show the collision objects of the bricks and color them in some trippy colors: And the best thing of all, you can DISABLE COLLISIONS in order to place bricks in almost any manner: I made a short video on how to unlock LDD developer mode and all the other things you can do with it here: I hope you guys find this info useful and save yourself a lot of work when LDD's collisions give you a headache
  24. Bartybum

    60051 Fleshed out

    For my first post I'd like to share something I built a few months back. This is my first actual post so please do be gentle :P I decided to design a much more fleshed out version of the 60051 High Speed Passenger Train by adding various types of new custom passenger cars and locomotives. I implemented some ideas from the 10233 Horizon Express, which is quite noticeable from the pictures below (such as the all-black 10233 inter-car bogey). Firstly I wanted the design to be much more detailed and to use more advanced building techniques such as those seen in 10233 than what is standard for a City set. For instance, I wanted my passenger cars to be intermodal articulated (cheers Duq :P) to really catch that high speed train vibe. Additionally, it had to have functioning doors and fairly detailed interiors. However, common limitations prevented me from doing particular designs such as a restaurant car as an interior four studs wide simply would not be enough for me to create a bar/lounge that didn't look like it was being choked by the walls of the car. If anyone wishes to build/use the designs, I'm more than happy to upload relevant .lxf files for you all :) just be sure to credit me properly. So without further ado, have at it! 1. Inter-car bogey (10233 design in all-black) Express2 - Bogey by Bartybum, on Flickr 2. Short end coach Express2 - Coach End Short by Bartybum, on Flickr 3. Short coach middle Express2 - Coach Short by Bartybum, on Flickr 4. Short locomotive Express2 - Engine by Bartybum, on Flickr 5. Long coach middle (No end coach as of yet, as I'm yet to design one) Express2 - Coach Long by Bartybum, on Flickr 6. Long locomotive Express2 - Engine Long by Bartybum, on Flickr 7. Super locomotive (uses inter-car bogey and is therefore inseparable from the rest of the consist) Express2 - Super Engine by Bartybum, on Flickr At this point I asked myself, why stop at one storey? Why not follow the footsteps of the Metroliner and go double decker? Naturally I did :) 8. Two storey coach Express2 - Two Storey Coach by Bartybum, on Flickr 9. Two storey transition coach Express2 - Two Storey Transition Coach by Bartybum, on Flickr Obviously since this is Lego, you can switch around cars if need be, so you can make whatever configuration you want. Two examples: Express2 by Bartybum, on Flickr Express2.1 by Bartybum, on Flickr Since LDD doesn't do stickers the abrupt disappearance of red and dark grey from the nose looks just a bit jarring. Keep in mind that these designs are built with the implication of the stickers on the nose already being there. Now that all's said and done, just hit me up in the replies if you'd like .lxf files, more than happy to give them out :) EDIT: .zip files in reply section
  25. The Mugbearer

    The Toa Hagah

    The Hagah were an elite group of Toa assigned to Makuta Teridax. When his betrayal was uncovered, the six went rogue. All of them, except for Norik and Iruini, were captured and mutated by Roodaka into Rahagah. Norik and Iruini lasted a little longer before surrendering to the Vortixx and succumbing to her powers. The following designs are based off Demitsorou's drawings, particularly this Toa Hagah lineup. Norik, a Toa of Fire, was the leader of the Toa Hagah, Possessing infinite patience, unusual for a Toa of Fire, Norik was an exemplary leader and a hero. He wears the Great Kanohi Pehkui, Mask of Diminishment. Bomonga, a Toa of Earth, was the deputy leader of the Toa Hagah. He used to be a quiet type, preferring to work alone and employing stealth tactics. Despite that, got famous for wrangling a Tahtorak Dragon by using his Mask Power to become as large as the beast itself. Bomonga wears the Great Mask of Growth, shaped after Great Kanohi Hau. Iruini, a Toa of Air, may seem grim and even cynical, but deep inside he cares a great deal about his teammates. He used to be the only Toa Hagah to ever raise a concern over Rahi, showing his devotion to the safety of the Matoran. Iruini wears the Great Kanohi Kualsi, Mask of Quick Travel. Kualus, a Toa of Ice. Always eloquent and classy, even as mutated Rahagah, Kualus enjoyed the company of avian Rahi. He wears the Great Kanohi Mask of Rahi Control shaped after Great Rau. Gaaki, a Toa of Water, wears a Great Mask of Clairvoyance, shaped after Noble Kanohi Ruru. The mask has an unfortunate habit of activating on its own and impose great stress on its wielder, which made Teridax’s betrayal all that much painful for Toa Gaaki. Pouks, a Toa of Stone. He’s loud and boisterous and believes in direct approaches in everything, which makes him come off as brutally honest at times. Pouks wears the Great Mask of Emulation, shaped after Great Kanohi Elda. All models are made in Lego Digital Designer, rendered in POV-Ray and post-processed in Adobe Photoshop.