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Found 15 results

  1. This is a 1:8.3 scale Technic MOC car I am making powered by EV3. Things have been going well until I ran into some space issues with some Large Motors. I wanted them to be vertical, but they were too big, so I'm trying ways to get more space so the motors won't be very visible when I build the exterior. In the right picture, I positioned the motors at an angle to save space, however it may make the rear too long. The maximum room I have (according to blueprints) for the motors is 2.5 inches away from the rear wheels, so I need to save a lot of space or I have to expand the rear. All in all, I have to position the motors where they are not too high or not too far from the rear wheels. I'd thought I post this issue I have because I wonder if there is any other better way to do this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.
  2. I'm back with one last issue in my GX EV3 build. I just got done finishing the doors, side panels, rear trunk door, hood, and some part of the roof. But the vehicle was so heavy that when I drove it around, it kept on doing the same thing. The diffs were clicking and the car had very much difficulty moving. Here is a picture of the bottom of the vehicle. Most of the clicking seems to be coming from the rear diff when I move the wheels by hand. I can either do two things. 1. Reinforce the rear diff somehow. 2. Improve it's off-road performance and stop the clicking somewhat by replacing the diffs with knob gears. But this will come at the cost of independent moving between the wheels. What should I do? Please give me the best response you can so the clicking will stop and I could finally take this AWD machine through some rough terrain like a real SUV. I really appreciate any advice.
  3. Hey, A question to others who own the 9450 set with the four headed dragon. My kids have this set, build it when they got it. Never took it apart or anything but now I noticed that the lower half of two dragon heads start falling off. It are the two heads without the ball-shooter. The lower parts of those heads are very loose and thus easily fall down the technic rod. A small swoosh is enough. Anybody else has this issue? I know workarounds but it isn't... cool. As all other dragon heads are still fine, also on other models (ice, fire, earth, lightning, gold).
  4. I am struggling with the hinge tool in LDD. I use technic beams, turn plates, rocker bearings, and pegs to make various types of doors and ramps. Each time I think I have the hinge tool figured out, I get different results. When it comes to a """technic beam via pegs""" type of hinge, each beam and peg can be selected for manipulation, causing circular arrows to appear. My problem is that the entire model moves most of the time instead of the part that I want to move. The starships I make are massive and LDD freezes for up to thirty seconds each time the entire damn ship moves. I have experienced this happen while manipulating pegs or beams. At first I thought that the entire model would only move if there was a red box highlight around the entire model, so then I made sure that only the piece I selected had the red box highlight. But sometimes the entire model moves while only the one piece has the red box highlight. Every instruction and video I have experienced, neglects to explain how to actually use the hinge tool, they just cover the basics like CLICK, ARROWS, DONE. I wish it was as easy as grabbing the door and moving it with the mouse cursor. While building, I often mistakenly grab bricks from the foreground, could this be what is happening when the entire model moves instead of the door? If so, the only way to prevent it from happening is to zoom way close to the arrows, but then I can not see what is going on. I am not trying to spend most of my time zooming in and out. Regarding using the arrows, which part of the arrows should be crabbed by the cursor, the arrow head, the body or can both be used. Should I move the cursor in a ring following the contour of the arrows, or should the cursor be moved up and down? It may just be me, but if I engineered a program, I would explain such things, instead of simply stating that the hinge tool is used to manipulate hinges. Yeah but how? What part must be clicked/selected? How do you use the arrows? How do you know if the door will move, or the entire model? A couple days ago, while tinkering with hinges, I noticed that the entire model was rotated horizontally by about 20 degrees. A consequence of messing with hinges that I did not notice,.. well I noticed it, but I thought that I had accidentally clicked one of the annoying, hardly visible pan arrows. I had already saved lots of work so reloading was not an option. I ended up correcting the 20 degree rotation but forgot how I did it. Though the 20 degree rotation was corrected, the ship was now moved from it's original location. This was upsetting because I had multiple free floating objects like sliding doors that were not connected to the model, which were now outside of the ship. How would I be able to fine rotate an entire selected model, instead of the limited 45 degree changes that the keyboard arrow keys provide? Or is my only option to perform a (((disappearing hinge trick)))? Regarding the hardly visible pan arrows, why were they designed to rotate the users perspective, instead of move the perspective left/right up/down? Is there any way to invert a model? Like to turn a left into a right? Without this ability, building takes more than twice as long. Is there any way to make a brick attach to a tile plate without performing the (((disappearing stud trick)))? I noticed that not even a Lego figure can be placed on a tile plate which blew me away. My floors are always tiled because as a child I knew that walking on floors with bumps everywhere would be annoying. When I watch tutorials on YT regarding LDD, their brick selector to the left has the pieces shown in a rainbow of colors which would make finding pieces easier, but mine are all red. I like all red so I know what bricks were recently placed, but I fear I am lacking something. Also when I select the decoration tool, the popup selection window has only a couple designs to choose from. My real Lego collection had at least 150 different designs for 1x2-1x3-1x4-1x6-2x2 tile plates, yet the only tile plate in LDD that has more than a couple options is the 1x2 plate, which has a couple dozen. I fear that I do not have the full inventory of parts. Is there an update or library pack that I need to install? Any way to permanently link bricks together so in the future, when one of the linked bricks is selected/moved, the other linked bricks are selected and moved with it? When I open the color pallet window, the "Legacy" colors at the bottom are cut off by the status bar so I am unable to see all of the colors. Is the color pallet moveable somehow, or must I use a larger display in order to view it all? My lap top is only 720p. I included an image. I am unable to move this ramp door at all, but sometimes the entire ship moves while the door stays put. There is nothing blocking the movement, hidden or visible. I have worked with real Lego's since I was eight so I know every Lego brick very well. I would be having so much fun if I could actually see the things I create function, instead of massive confusion and frustration. Version - 4.3.10 Brick Version - 2248.1 WIN10
  5. I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote.
  6. I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
  7. I'm back again with another gear grinding issue but this one is a bit less critical. The grinding only occurs when my 4x4 SUV chassis (with Sariel's 4-Speed Sequential Transmission) is in a certain gear. Here's some photos of the chassis. The transmission is shifted to the speed where the nonstop grinding occurs. When in this gear (I believe it may be 3rd) The car is supposed to move, but it does very slowly while clicking noises fire like a machine gun. This is the only time when the gears grind other than, say, if the chassis hits a wall. When the clicking begins, I hear the driving rings shake (which awfully reminds me of the somewhat gear clicking in the Mercedes-Benz Arocs set). I would love a response a soon as possible to address the clicking problem so I can finish the chassis once and for all.
  8. This is my second post on the EuroBricks community and another question asking for as much help as I can get to master the art of the technic gearbox. Like I said in my previous post, for my Lexus GX EV3 4x4 SUV, I tried my best to use Sariel's 4-speed sequential and it ultimately failed on me. Quoting one of my replies... I would be relieved if I could finally finish this creation after five months of difficulty. Here are some pictures of the entire chassis. I said before that the issues with this was that the gears clicked a ridiculous amount at the highest gears which stopped the car from moving. (Hence the reason why the transmission I want needs to have a clutch gear to absorb the large amount of torque)
  9. I'm building a SUV drivetrain for my Lexus GX EV3 project that has independent suspension, four-wheel-drive, and a four-speed gearbox with a medium EV3 motor that shifts the gears. Unfortunately, after testing the drivetrain, I found that when in 3rd or 4th gear, the gears make a clicking noise when moving forward and then straight to backward. However, this clicking somewhat occurs less when going from reverse to forward. This clicking really "grinds my gears" and I don't know what to do to stop the gears from clicking. My gearbox is a custom version of Sariel's four-speed sequential that is fit for the vehicle I am building. The input in the transmission is switched to provide more speed. Two large EV3 motors drive the input. I've noticed that when the vehicle stops, it goes the opposite direction for a little bit. Also, like I already said, this clicking only happens in 3rd or 4th gear, but mostly the 4th gear since it brings the most speed. I tried to solve this clicking with different gears and whatnot, but no matter what they still clicked when the vehicle moved forward to backward. The motors and the gearing also bring a lot of torque as much as it brings speed, and this might be one of the problems. Is there any way I can solve this issue so the gear clicking will stop in this situation (moving foward and then straight to backward) for now on? Here's a photo of the bottom of the drivetrain. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you may be able to provide!
  10. Hi guys, i'm here because i found an issue in some pieces present in the lego digital designer palette. Some pieces have non uniform measures and this imply that these pieces cannot be correctly mounted upside-down. Note that in the real pieces these problems don't occour. In the first image the distance between green and red pieces should have been of 1/6 of lego units, that corresponds to the distance indicated by the grey piece. But, as you can see, this distance is slightly less and this doesn't allow to create a perfect match between upper and lower pieces. In the second image the height of the red and green pieces should be the same but in LLD they differ slightly, as you can see from the small step between the upper surfaces of both red and green pieces. I don't know why LDD presents this error, but it affects a lot the techniques we can use while creating a model. If someone can help me find a solution i would be so thankful. Luca
  11. Hi everyone I need some help to troubleshoot an issue that I'm having with a Pneumatic Pump. It has a leak, but I don't think that it is the piston or the one-way valve. I think that there may be a tiny hole in the black casing. Please watch this short (2 min) video for details: Has anyone experienced a similar problem, or have a solution? I was thinking that I could use some glue (hot glue / super glue / two-part epoxy) to block the hole, but I didn't want it to seep in and block the air flow completely. I've had this pump for a few years, but I think this is the first time that I have actually used it. If this is a manufacturing defect, do you think Lego would replace it? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  12. BrickWild

    Whatever happened to Majhost?

    Have you ever heard of Majhost, the non-Lego counterpart of Brickshelf? Does anyone on here know what happened to it? I remember when it went 'Down for Maintenance' early last year and nothing has happened since then. There are thousands of pictures on here just waiting to go down the drain within just a few weeks! Thanks.
  13. Hello, I'm a newbie with LDD and I'm trying to put together some fig parts, and noticed when I attach a cape and then a head, the head doesn't go all the way on. I've read in some places here that there is a "trick" to getting the head down by putting it onto the torso differently, but I don't see any clear directions on how to do that. Can someone point me in the direction of those instructions on how to fix this bug if there are some here somewhere on Eurobricks? Or can someone provide a how-to video for this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  14. I hate to make a topic like this, but I'm quite frustrated. I am using a MAC/Safari and am wondering if anyone else (most likely US shoppers) are not able to open Shop.LEGO.com/US or unable to be redirected from another site (i.e. Brickset.com)? If I type in the first address I get through to the shopping site with all features (Theme/Categories/Exclusive options, checkout bag, etc), but I get the LEGO minifig with two plugs unplugged saying "Page not found". If I click on something like my bag or a featured product my page goes to: "Safari cannot open page: Too many redirects trying to open [LEGO address]. This might happen if you open a page that is redirected to open another page which is then redirected to open the original page." I get same page if I try to go through Brickset links. I can't view anything on the shopping side of LEGO.com, but no problem with the kid side. Is it something with my computer or their site? This has never happened before and it's been like this since I tried on 8/25. Any advice would be appreciated
  15. Hi there. I'm having a strange issue each time I get embeded Youtube video in any of EB threads. There are actually several issues, but all are related to youtube videos: 1. playing video directly from thread, but it stops in like 15 seconds, with no further progress 2. playing video directly from thread, everything looks fine, until you try to click any Youtube player button or simply move a mouse 3. clicking to watch video on Youtube.com where it works fine. However when I return back to thread which had the video embeded - it crashes and automatically reloads the video space, not the whole webpage. It looks like something has changed in EB forum during past 2-3 weeks, as I didn't have such issue before, and it is the only webpage having such problem. Another moment is that all Youtube videos in EB have glossy player look, rather than plain on any other webpage (it used to be plain on EB too). I know I'm using a fancy setup (Linux + Opera) which is poorly supported and I would live with this, but it used to work properly... Wonder if I'm the only one with such an issue and if this can be fixed somehow.