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Showing results for tags 'how to'.
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Hi, I have recently just got back into building my own lego creations and have submitted an idea on the Lego Ideas website. There seems to be alot of emphasis around gathering your own support and I was just wondering if anyone here would know how I would go about doing this. I think the idea is a fairly good one but I just don't really know how to go about gathering support for it (or if it actually makes any difference). Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Hi All! Since last tuesday I own all new sets and I've recorded many videos (speedbuild, functionality reviews, detail views...). Thank you for watching! 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-roader Functionality review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZfIpFKcUME Speed-build: http://youtube.com/watch?v=jgss_ZFzWEA First Look at App release: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIb-Al_3o5g Control+ packiging: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oas_z6tcJA0 42098 Car Transporter Functionality review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHOuPBHtDtg Speed-build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY9N-2lezZI 42097 Compact Crawler Crane Functionality review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4oRcbnZMBU Speed-build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvelE1MXuaA
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[How to:] Fix frayed wire on Lego 9v track connector
Unfinished_Projects posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
How to: Fix frayed wire on Lego 9v track connector Materials: Frayed wire New wire Heat shrink crimp connectors Heat shrink tubing Wire strippers Razor blade Lighter or heat gun Step 1: Cut wire between track connector and ferrite core (black cylinder), cutting as close to the ferrite core as possible. Step 2: Cut wire at similar length on the controller end. Step 3: Strip back rubber insulation from controller end, track connector, and new wire. Step 4: Crimp wires together, sliding the heat shrink crimps as close to the connector as possible. DO NOT FORGET TO SLIDE HEAT SHRINK TUBING ON, IF YOU ARE USING IT. (I forgot for one half) Step 5: Use lighter or heat gun to melt shrink tubing, again sliding the heat shrink as close to the connector as possible. Step 6: Repeat for wire between track connectors if needed Step 7: Test *Disclaimer* There may be a better way to do this. I simply used what I had to fix the problem. No guarantees that this will work for you. Thanks for reading and hope this helps someone, Unfinished_Projects -
Hello. I hope this is the right thread for this topic. I made a simple tutorial on how to build a LEGO TV. It's very simple but I feel like it's a good portrayal. It's supposed to be one of those old TVs from before flat screens that everyone had in the 90's and early 2000's. Tell me what you think.
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Hello, this is a rocket that I designed to look like the standard simple rocket design. I haven't found a very strong way to attach the bottom to the main body, so if you have any suggestions for me about how to improve that, I would really appreciate it! https://image.ibb.co/iLfVLn/Simple_Rocket.png Here is a tutorial on how to build it: If you like it, feel free to support it here: https://ideas.lego.com/challenges/1b817aba-3990-4e6d-a17f-7a59a948d02f/application/fad3dc1d-9646-4621-9448-7dd85fad4bdc
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Hello LEGO fans! I want to share with my new MOC. I tried to make my LEGO railway more realistic. And that's what I did! As you can see, LEGO train tracks looks more interesting with some trees and grass. If you already have LEGO railway, try to add some objects to make it realistic. I like the result! Now my LEGO trains look great on these layouts. Have a nice day!
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Here's a quick overview of the MILS standard. For those who haven't heard it of it, it is a standard published by the Hispabrick magazine to help coordinate diorama building between Lego builders. It also is a great foundational tool for learning how to make more advanced builds. Hope you enjoy! I have other videos on my channel with instructions on how to make the various modules.
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A Quick Start Guide to Brethren of the Brick Seas (BoBS)
Bregir posted a topic in Brethren of the Brick Seas
So you think you'd like to dive into the world of the Brick Seas, however there is so much to read and so many rules that you are not even sure where to start! Fear not, it's actually quite easy to get started and the community here is really friendly and will help you along each step of the way! Never be afraid to ask questions in the introduction thread or any of the faction threads (linked below). For now let's look at exactly what you need to do to sign up and get started in one post! Step One: Choosing a Faction The first step is also one of the most important - choosing the faction that your character will pledge allegiance to. While you are never limited to only building scenes within your faction's territory (in fact many challenges may require you to build in other factions), faction choice will impact your role in BoBS. There are many things to consider, what style suits your current Lego collection, what interests you, which part of the game you wish to focus on etc. etc. Even the number of currently active players in each faction may influence your choice. The most important thing however, is to choose a faction that you are going to enjoy and be motivated to build for! There are four playable factions in the game, let's have a brief look at each one to assist in your choice. Corrington Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Guard (Red Coats) Primary real world influences: Great Britain, Renaissance Sweden and enlightenment era Denmark-Norway The Basics: Science and the enlightenment are main national characteristics for Corrington, and their main source of income is from their strong merchant fleet. A strong navy is required to protect their maritime mercantile interests and this tends to be their military focus. Corlander's strive to bring order and structure to the world. Typical Quote: "That flower is beautiful. We must conserve it and bring it to the national museum." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a beautiful flower - join Corrington. Read more: Corrington thread Eslandola Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Armada Primary real world influences: Spain, Portugal and the Netherlands. Also some of the merchant republics such as Venice, Milan and Lübeck. The Basics: Trade and profit are the main national characteristics for Eslandola. Although nominally ruled by a King, a trio of very powerful trade companies are the power brokers and have recently established a republic in the colonies. Their main source of income is through vast property holdings and they have developed a strong army and navy to protect and aggressively expand their interests. Typical Quote: "Enough profit for the day? Don't make me laugh!" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a shiny city of gold - join Eslandola. Read more: Eslandola thread Oleon Primary Lego Influence: Imperial Soldiers (Bluecoats) Primary real world influences: Pre-revolutionary France and Imperial Austria The Basics: The main national characteristics of Oleon are deeply rooted in their strict adherence to the religion known as 'The Faith' which together with the strong aristocracy form strong bases of political power. A great love for art and culture as well as ancient artefacts is also a national characteristic together with their famous wine making skills. Like Corrington they have developed a strong merchant fleet and navy. Although historically Oleon and Corrington have been bitter rivals, relations have been improving of late. Typical Quote: "May Zeus and Poseidon guide your journey." If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle to find a mystical artefact - join Oleon. Read more: Oleon thread Sea Rats Primary Lego Influence: Pirates Primary real world influences: Real world Pirates and free settlements such as Nassau. The Basics: The Sea Rats are basically anyone in the new world who owe no allegiance to any of the old world empires. These men and women go their own way. Some are fierce pirate lords, making a living terrorising the Brick Seas, others are peaceful merchants who refuse to bend the knee to any King, and some settle down at a romantic place in the colonies. The Sea Rats are a loose confederation with no central authority, whose binding characteristic would probably be the fierce defence of their freedom to live life completely on their own terms. Typical Quote: "What? You've never heard the tales of the reckless Benjamin Morgan? Benjamin, brave and bold? Dread Pirate Captain Morgan, on his legendary ship, the Queen Annetta's Revenge? Morgan the Moray?" If you see your sigfig crawling through the jungle... because it has an utter disregard for the rules - join the Sea Rats. Read more: Sea Rats thread Once you have chosen a faction, you are ready to move to step 2 and start building! (Next post) -
I made tutorial video on how to make a MILS module. MILS is a standard that helps you to coordinate your building with other Lego builders. I also find it to be very helpful when building a sturdy foundation for your creations. I will be publishing a series of these videos so stay tuned for more instructions. The Video The MILS standard is published by the Hispabrick magazine so you can visit their website for details http://www.hispabrickmagazine.com/en/content/hbm013-modular-integrated-landscaping-system-i
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With the arrival of a few classic space sets recently, I think a reboot may happen soon, so here is how it should be done. Factions: The Lego System Space Exploration group (LSSE) The M-TRON Corporation The SeaTron Corporation Blacktron LSSE Lsse are a company devoted to exploring the outermost reaches of space. They have three models of spaceship, the LL918, LL924 and LL928, they also utilize a variety of ground vehicles such as moon buggies and walkers like atats and also exo suits. http://bricksafe.com...jpg/800x450.jpg Their operatives either wear the standard classic space uniform or any of the classic space styled collectible lego minifigures uniforms. M-Tron M-Tron is a mining company which is extracting useful magnetanium ore from many planets and turning it into magnets to help the whole of space. It uses bulky transports with wheels to traverse a planetoid a great example is lego set number 6989. SeaTron Seatron is a mining company that believes that the best place to find strong metals is under the sea on earth and alien planets alike. They have submarines to mine and then ship ore to the surface with monorails. SeaTron often hires aliens who can breath underwater to get inside small caves etc.[/size] Blacktron Blacktron is a space pirate and gun-for-hire empire. They have small and fast ships that can intercept other ships as a swarm or ambush space-convoys by hiding behind asteroids. A blacktron operative A blacktron Heavy operative A blacktron alien operative They also use robots such as the lego minifigures one. Hope you liked it Columbus
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Hello Dr. Who fans! This is the tutorial I released last Monday for the celebration of Bad Wolf day. I forgot to post it here until now! I'm quite proud of this MOC, as I've never seen one built quite at this scale before. All the other's I've seen have been much larger or smaller. I hope you like it, and feel free to send me video responses on youtube if you decide to build your own!
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This may have been posted already but I have come across other people searching for a remedy to adding an extra PF boogie to there existing setup. Having one PF motor will work for short length lightweight trains but most people like to run lots of rolling stock and the designs are becoming heavier with the more details being added to the design. So we need more power! You can simply add another PF Boogie, Right?! Yes and No. The additional boogie in most cases will face the opposite direction of the already installed one. This means the boogies pull in opposite directions! the simple solution to this is a switch to change polarity of the current on the new boogie. I picked up the part at Toys-R-Us. It was the Power Functions starter kit, came with a switch lights and small motor. I did this project on my latest locomotive and was pleased with the results. Fortunatly there was plenty of space in the frame to hide the switch and having the additional powered boogie allows me to hook up additional cars with little to no signs of strain or wheel slippage. Below are pics and you can refer to my Flickr page for additional pics. Feel free to add feedback or ideas to this tip. Previously I was splicing wires and soldering connections to fix this problem. This is much easier and cosmetically appealing.
