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Found 77 results

  1. _TLG_

    [MOC] Hypercar Concept 1

    Hello, feel the speed! It is my own hypercar concept inspired by real hyper and supercars. It is a 6 studs wide, studless model built from standard LEGO elements. The overall size is similar to the Speed Champions sets, but the wheels are from City sets as I wanted to keep the height to length ratio closer to the real sports cars. It can be combined with my other MOC Hybrid Truck which will be available on LEGO IDEAS soon too. If you like this car, please share and support the it on LEGO IDEAS: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/44e6dbbf-734f-4b38-84c7-2075b09495bb Many thanks! LEGO Hypercar concept1-02 by László Torma, on Flickr LEGO Hypercar concept1-01 by László Torma, on Flickr LEGO Hypercar concept1-03 by László Torma, on Flickr
  2. Dear moderators, please rename this topic to [MOC] Trophy Truck "Double Trouble" Hi everybody! Video is available, enjoy and comment! Here comes double trouble. Twin powered double trouble True liftarm energy! This is my new Moc. And it is ready: I am working on photo/video. UPDATE Here is some photos and info while you wait for video. Specs: Soft long travel suspension. Front independent with postive caster Rear live axle with built in Buggy motors. Rear wheel drive Self made stickers Tires RC4WD Dirt Grabber 1.55 (74 мм) - thats a copy of real BF Goodrich AT tires Spare tire RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ 1.55 (83 мм) Weight is 1100 gr Electrics: Steering SERVO, Flying Propulsion 2x Buggy motors Fueled by 2xLiPo 3xLED lights Controlling thru 2xSBrick Internal space is filled with electronics. Unfortunately there is no free space for cockpit. Love this suspension, its articulation is great for me. I am happy seeing how it works) Suspension travel is about 4L. I will drop down and show it on video later. You know, LEGO suspension is always jerky, so you cant make big mocs drive straight, especially when it is fast and big. Positive caster helps to return wheels in center postition and fights with steering system backlash. It also makes shock absorbers work smoother and softer, IMHO. I dont like demonic "Monster" theme that is everywhere now...but this is good) Very good and realistic tires. Sad that there is no similar proportions tires in LEGO assortment. These are 75 mm with wide almost equal to medium 43 mm racing wheel. Spare tire is another type, cause I dont have 5-th Dirt Grabber. These 83 mm tire also fit in the arches, but they are bigger and harder for LiPos to rotate without stress... Model is driving fast enough for its weight and even drift donuts indoor, but outdoor shows the the weakest part - LiPo. I should try to lock differential thermistor for insane driving. After "baja" outdoor drive I replaced all damaged wheel axles and going to film its indoor's donuts and at asphalt outdoor to reach maximum speed. I hope it can reach at least 10 km/h. So "why double trouble"? - it is hard to fuel buggy motors. And here we have double of them. Here is full photo album http://www.bricksafe...rm8/BajaTruckDT
  3. Chanced upon this video while browsing youtube just now... I'm not in any way promoting the use of 3rd party parts () here (it's individuals' tastes after all), but I thought this video pretty much gives a rough gauge to all of us what pure Lego, when combined with brushless motor (i.e. no lubrication, no bearings, no other metallic 3rd party hobby-grade RC structural/mechanical components), can do... how Lego parts (especially differentials and universal joints) survived at such speed, for a roughly 1 kg model (my own model weighs 3 kg and if I accelerate it hard, the rear-front-middle differential and universal joints will complain)... and the control range to be expected using rc-grade transmitter/receiver. and if the speed claimed is accurate, the 68.8 mm wheels would have to be spinning at close to 6k rpm - depending on weather conditions this is probably the top limit before Lego axles melts (this limit will go down the heavier the model is).
  4. For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams.
  5. Not for LEGO purists, contains modified LEGO parts. It has been a wonderful struggle, but it paid off: a super fast, relatively stable LEGO RC Boat, driven by a brushless elektromotor and two, counterclockwise turning propellors! No torque-roll anymore, almost no porposing (thanks to the trim tabs), direct steering and great fun! To get the balance right and to get the boat planning at higher speed was a challenge. But it works! The wet area can be reduced to a minimum, at high speed the boat is almost complete on top of the water (downside: hardly any control left :(( ). Based on a 54799 LEGO Hull with a few additions: - 3D printed stuffing tube to cater for an in-board, brushless motor (10 mm tube stuffed with LEGO parts to make it waterproof) - A gearbox to convert the motor output into two counterclockwise turning axles - A 2x2 3D printed LEGO brick to make the steering arm waterproof - And al the 2.4GHz RC parts: ESC, servo, battery pack, receiver Please have a look at the video and let me know your comments.
  6. So there it is, my 'illegal' entry to AMS2, wich is illegal because it uses a rechargeable (LiPo) battery instead of the Lego 6xAA batteryboxes wich are drained very fast, expensive and bad for the enviroment, so I don't use them, purist rules are ok untill they stop making logical sense and become outings of total OCD only. Eat Dust ! Big enigines need big tailpipes. Pneumatic lifting of the bodywork to acces tech area, it can also ride in this position but it is not recommended. As there is no suspension in the chassis the pneumatic coupling of the bodywork still garantees a smooth ride. A souped up engine needs lots of extra dials and gages and stuff to keep track of all the added systems, no pair-a-dice by the dashboard light but a trofee pair of worn out pistons, behind the steering wheel there is also a siringe mounted to the dash, I still don't know what's in it, but knowing the driver it's probably heroin. Big supercharger added. Extra cooling for the engine Just like a real dragster it can lock the frontwheels (pneumatic breaks) to do a tire warming burnout in place, with 4L motors driving the rear wheels only doing a burnout, drifting and doughnuts are no problem at all as long there is a flat surface to ride on (no carpet), there is also a magnetic reedswitch wich engages the 6 orange blinking LED's as a warning when the frontwheel lock is engaged. The (pneumatic) break pedal is actaully working, though you would have to push it a 100 times to engage the breaks, in the rear there is a electrical pneumatic pump keeping pressure on the system, but when electricity is down it can still be manually pressured by the breakpedal. It maxes out the testbench in 5 seconds... So dragsters are highly illegal, don't use standart engines and chassis in general, anything goes as long as it's fast, so I think I did a perfect rendition of a dragified Lego set with this build. More pics here; https://bricksafe.com/pages/Permo/crazer-
  7. Power functions. 1x L motor 1x Servo motor
  8. Hi folks, This is not for purists. Contains modified and non-LEGO parts. My urge to build a super fast LEGO RC Car often stopped at the stage where the body needed to be build. Seeing all the great designs on forums like this, it somewhat discouraged me building my own. Besides the fact that these bodies come with some weight and will not hold a crash a higher speeds, I had to come up with something else. As a result of an earlier project (building a fast LEGO boat) a had some damaged LEGO Hulls (54779). Since a car body works basically the same as boat hull (but 180 degrees rotated), I thought I'd give it a try. Have a look at the result in the YT video. It works fine. Gives strength to the car, the aerodynamics work well for good driving stability and it is not that ugly :) Called it The LBOW (Lego Boat On Wheels). Included standard RC components: ESC, brushless motor, 3s Lipo battery, digital steering servo and .... a Gyro. Resulted in a very fast RC Car. Theoretically this should be able to reach 100 km/h. Speed test will follow (need to find a good track first). For those trying to do similar things, I'd strongly recommend to add the Gyroscope to your car. It prevents the car from breaking out at higher speeds. Very useful.
  9. Hi folks, Most LEGO boats have out-board motors. Not very elegant, not very fast. I felt a strong urge to find out if in-board was possible. And, if the LEGO hulls could handle some speed. Although it did require a 3D-printed part (a so called stuffing tube), it worked out well. Built in some 2.4GHz RC components to make sure the boat could be controlled from a distance. And included a modest brushed elektromotor. Please have a look at the result hereunder. Leave a comment if you wish to see more details. Happy to share. Currently working on a optimized version: The prop behind the boat, not under the boat. Less resistance, more speed, more control.
  10. I have decided to make a WIP topic for my tests of my speedcar, which is a car that I hope to get up to 40km/h or more. But I don't want this to turn into a discussion about wheels, I just want it to be a place to show my progress. This is where I will be doing most of my tests: - it's about 80m of very smooth car park + 15m of footpath and 10m of gravel. Here is my first car: 5:3 gearing, 725gm Here is the results of the tests: Yes, I know - only 24.3km/h, but it's more than I would have ever expected a few months ago (when I thought that the top speed for Lego was 27km/h). I have some work to do...
  11. Hi there! I have created a fleet of pullback cars for an event and wanted to share them! Here they are: 1. Mad Buggy A simple pullback buggy with suspension (and too many curved panels on back) 2. Arctic Speeder A fast arctic vehicle meant for rapid transport in sub-zero temperatures. 3. Future Car (airfoil up) A car of the future that has a spring-loaded airfoil in the back and opening doors and hood. 4. Rocket Rod Kinda ran out of ideas... Very fast though! Hope you liked it!
  12. Hello My ripsaw, inspired by Fast Furious 8 (but not a copy). Since Buwizz can handle 2x Buggy motors, I decided to build light and powerful tracked vehicle for snow. Vehicle for fun! Movie was filmed 3 month ago. We have summer now. TURN ON ENGLISH SUBTITLES I am not the first here with such powerful tracked vehicle. I can confrim that it is useless toy and hard to control. Thing for fun:) more photos http://bricksafe.com/pages/rm8/ripsaw Thank you for watching!
  13. Hi, I have finished the creation! Here are some photos: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Old Post Hi, This is my new MOC which I have been mostly working behind the scenes on (and waiting for BrickLink orders) and it is finally finished! I am not sure what to call it let me know if you have ideas. Hope you like it! Video coming soon.
  14. Finally i found some time to present you my latest MOC here. -> the 34,8 km/h black speed record racer It is the fastest 2-motor LEGO-rc-car until now (june 2017). While developing i was aiming for the highest speed you could reach with only 2 buggy-motors. To reach the goal, i had to: - reduce weight as much as anyhow possible - reduce the rolling resistance as much as possible (using only 3 as thin as possible wheels [only frontwheel could be better for indoor use: 2815 + 4185, but doesnt work outdoors]) - reduce axle-beam friction; just 3 studs in total (5 to protect the motor bearings) - find the best gearing - reduce air-resistance, and keep center of gravity as low as possible -> so here are the specs: Including panels in studs: length 55 , wide 21, height 12 (wheels) -> weigth: 650gChassis only (ready to race) : length 42 , wide 21, height 12 (wheels) -> weigth: ultralight 621g (without speed computer)Ground clearance: 0,5 studsGearing: 2:1 up at the fast output of the buggy-motorsTop speed: 34,8 km/h I know some of you dont trust the LEGO-speed-computer, so i also didnt at first. I startet measuring with gps with my heavy weighted mobile phone (more then 150g), but i didnt like the idea, to add 25% of weight to the model just for speed meassuring. Thats why i decided to buy a speed-computer (21g) [ could get one for 15€] just to try how accurate it is. And SURPRISE... it is really really accurate. I made a lot of comparing runs with GPS-phone (speedo app in 1 second mode) AND speed computer together attached to the car. The biggest difference i could ever meassure was 0,3km/h. You can see some pictures of this at the end of my video. (In my next video i will make some videos of this, not just pictures). Here are some pictures and the building instructions as Lego-digital-designer-file: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8658/Summse/348-kmh-black-speed-record-breaker-worlds-fastest-remote-controlled-2-motor-lego-car/#comments I hope you like it :) TechnicSummse And finally here is the video :) -> Its the first video i ever made
  15. Hi eurobricks! here is my new dune buggy: details: it is fast, powered by l motor, nizn aaa batteries, servo motor and ir reciver of course! it also has some lights which are useful in the dark! building time: 4 hours. insrtuctions: no, but maybe i will make some. Video: https://youtu.be/1W26VOe1dkU i hope you enjoy!
  16. Hello everyone, This is my newest creation, it is my forth MOC using non-Lego parts in its construction. I started this project when I bought some rear and front hubs from the Traxxas Rustler to try to fit them with Lego, it turns out that the rear hubs are almost exactly two studs wide and the front ones are about 1.5 studs. I also am using 2.2" wheels with the hubs, they are really grippy and are much better then Lego ones. Unlike my last MOC that had a full body with almost no gaps which ended up weighing about 1/4 the cars weight I went with a more simple design to save weight. IMG_1453 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1454 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It uses Traxxas 550 12T motor for drive, Hitec HS-322HD servo for steering, a hobbywing quicrun ESC 1060, a FLYSKY FS-GT3B remote, and a 7.2v 2000mah battery. IMG_1455 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1457 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It has full independent suspension on the rear and the back but the back uses Lego dampening springs to stop it from bouncing around during high speeds. Unlike my older MOC's this uses bearings for all of the drivechain components to stop friction, in fact without the motor mounted I could free-spin the wheels because of the low friction. With no surface to rub against no parts were damaged on the drivechain except early versions of the parts to adapt the Traxxas universal joint to Lego. IMG_1467 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1468 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The total drive ratio is 9:1 with the 12T gear on the motor going to a 36T that goes to another 12T to the 36T differential, this gives it a lot of torque and acceleration. When I designed the chassis I wanted to place the heavy components as low as possible and the motor ended up the same level as the bottom plate with the battery just 1 stud above it. Because of this I can turn at high speeds an it no flip over, there were a few times I would hit a large bump or rock in the road and it would simply skid around not flip. IMG_1458 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1459 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The steering on this is much better then my last ones and has a pretty good radios for its size, I am using a rack and pinion setup with turnbuckle steering links that allow me to adjust the toe-in or out, I set it to have a small amount of toe-in and with that it can stay going strait for a long time at high speeds. I have used a GPS app on my phone and it says the top speed is 24.9mph or 40kph
  17. So, some users may remember that in Russia there was an event in June 2016. Some users, especially me, liked this one the best, so I decided to reverse engineer it. I did it at the end of July 2016, but I never posted it here. Here are some pictures of the initial version, which had some problems, especially the suspension. I decided to give it another go using the LDD file I made, and add my own details. So this is what I created... The rear suspension comes directly from @Madoca 1977's PF Buggy 2.^^ LDD: sorryitsconfusing.lxf Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7147/offroadcreations/downhill-racer-reverse-engineered/ Enjoy!
  18. This F1 Racecar was something Dugald and I have been talking about doing for a long time. All of the regular batteries and motors just aren't fast enough. We tried our best to keep everything light weight, but enough paneling to show the curves of a real F1. Video: Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHskMrkHjm Fastest car we've ever built by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Technic Addict was so kind to lend us his RC buggy motors, battery pack and Michelin tires. (I am quite fond of those tires, but I checked bricklink and found the cheapest used pair to be 110$ for all 4 so yeah... not going to buy em Back end fun by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dugald asked Technic Addict what he would like to see built with these motors and he was really keen on seeing a light F1 car to show off the speed of the motor. SO here you go Technic Addict! Thanks! IMG_2291 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr My brother and I sat down yesterday at 4pm, grabbed a few drinks, and built the night away. At 12pm we were done! IMG_2304 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The car weighs 1450 grams or 3.2 pounds. Most of the weight is in the Michelin tires IMG_2353 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Super low car for better aerodynamics IMG_2347 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Big shout out to Technic Addict for making this build possible!
  19. Hi guys! Here's a demonstration model I built to show the potential of Buwizz. There were several goals for this model: Keep it small and light Gearing should be as simple and efficient as possible - ended up using a 40 tooth gear powering the older style differential, getting a 40/:16 gear ratio Advanced steering solution - pivot point is inside the wheel and the car is using ackermann steering geometry for best possible steering and efficiency Use Buwizz as a structural support - not only does the Buwizz power and control the car, it also helds it together Working steering wheel and openable doors - have them too Here's the result: In the gif below you can see the way the car is built and how the steering system works The end result is a very fast and maneuverable car that faces same problems as the big ones. Its actually so fast, that its easy to understeer at high speed or oversteer when accelerating. Controling it at high speed can be very hard, but thanks to Buwiz's different speed modes you can easily slow down the car. This is very usefull for parking or precise maneuvering. To finish up with a bang, here's a video: If there will be enough demand I will create an LDD model of this little speed devil
  20. So, due to the positive response of my Skeleton Street Racer, I have made a bigger one. It is exactly the same (motors, gear ratios) but larger. Video showing that it is still pretty fast: There isn't much to say, because it was already said in the original one's topic: It uses the new 40th Anniversary brick. ^^ \ LDD: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Offroadcreations/skeleton-xl/Skeleton XL.lxf Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-6874/offroadcreations/skeleton-xl/ Tell me what you think!
  21. Hello Everyone! I'm back with a nice little MOC that i built a couple days ago. I actually first built it last year but never had the time for pictures, so I rebuilt it from my memory. It has rear wheel drive via one buggy motor and 20t/diff gear combo. It has all wheel independent suspension-since I wanted the front and rear width to be the same, the rear isnt double wishbone. It's extremely light and has servo steering. All powered by one of my 10 volt batteries. I had to use some interesting bracing techniques in order to connect and strengthen the whole car with as little pieces as possible, but I couldnt find a simple enough way to brace the front suspension to the chassis so in a hard crash the front axle may come off. Pics: ^it gets quite dirty after prolonged outdoor use the front bull bar (same one from the 8048 buggy set) bends inward during a front end hit, so it definitely helps protect the car if it loses signal from IR receiver: In order for weight saving I used flex axles, which give a nice tight grip around the battery: Money shot suspension showcase ^when resting the rear suspension has neutral camber, when it is raised it has slight positive camber, but when leaning into a turn and it compresses, it has negative camber, which can actually help handling a bit: overall it has good ground clearance for its size, which allows for good performance on bumpy asphalt and light offroading, but for offoading it relies on wheel speed rather than low speed torque driving outdoors and through fresh rainwater puddles eventually collects dirt and water, which can get into places where you don't want it... ^but luckily dirt will fall of after a good shake once it has dried and water, as long as it is fresh rain/streamwater won't ruin motors/connectors, only pool/saltwater/grimy water will mess up motors, but I made sure the battery stayed dry And here's some burnout/drift shots: my new desktop background: ENJOY!
  22. Hello everyone, This is my new MOC, it is my third creation using non-Lego parts. Without the body was the fastest out of the three going over 20mph-32kph but with the body it only went 17.4mph-27.9kph which was included in the video. This project was started when I bought the 8880 style hubs from Efferman on shapeways and evolved to also use the non-Lego electronics. I also used the high torque differential, 550 motor mount, and the CV joints for the 8880 type joints, designed by Efferman. This was also my first creation to use my custom designed part, the 5x7 frame for bearings IMG_1130 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I went with a lime and black color scheme on this one to give it a pop of color compared to my other, more bland creations that are white and black. IMG_1131 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I worked a lot on the front to make it look menacing like most real supercars often do. IMG_1132 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr With the custom hubs I was able to make the gaps around the wheel very small but still have it where it does not bind. IMG_1134 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I covered up the bottom to stop dirt and other debris from getting inside the gears and motor that would cause the parts to wear faster and also shorten the life of the motor. IMG_1150 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Here is a picture with the tape and body removed. I mounted the motor and other electronics as low as possible to keep the SOG low for better handling. The gearing is 9:1, there is a 12T gear mounted to the motor and a 36T going into my 5x7 frame with bearings, along with lithium grease, that made the drive chain have almost no friction. With such low friction the motor almost never got hot and no drive parts were damaged even after me driving it on a bumpy road and some crashes. IMG_1149 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The hubs seem to have blended into the background in this picture but here you can see the rear assembly, I made this creation modular where if you remove the two black beams connected to the two dogbone pieces on each side the entire rear axle could be taken for maintenance like regreasng if any was needed. IMG_1148 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1146 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The front axle was nothing special, just two wishbones with different lengths and so on.... The performance was good but it did tend to pull left or right dew to the slack in Lego parts, but there is nothing you can do about that... Finally the video
  23. Marco qm

    Audi R8 Spyder 2017

    Do you like what you see? There's more (and better) pictures and info at: http://www.moc-pages...moc.php/431893. Hope you liked it! -Marco. qm
  24. This is my Blacktron fast Scouttrax. It is inspired by the 6941 which was one of my favorite sets when I was a kid. It is also the first wheeled vehicle I've build since my 'dark age'. I've been working on this for a long time, abandoning the project several times because I couldn't get it to work as I imagined it. There are still some things I am not quite happy with, so this will not be the final model. I have plenty of ideas on how to improve it. But I think it is far enough along to show it to you guys. I went a little overboard on motors: I really like fast vehicles :). This model is fast enough to get some nice drift action going. It looks really good when doing a fast corner. I should have a video of it up in a couple of weeks. You can find some more images on my Flickr account if you are interested (https://www.flickr.c...157669572889372).
  25. This is a very small, robust, reliable and easy to maintain buggy. It is ideal for letting your kids play with all day. The design goal was to make a robust car as small and simple as possible. This means most of all no suspension system since that would require the use of CV joints. They are known to break and while they work nicely in LEGO super cars that you carefully push around the floor, it does not work with kids trying to race and crash their RC cars. CV joints will break. Of course it is possible to create a LEGO RC car with suspension and even four wheel drive/steering, but then you end up with LEGO’s own RC Crawler. The goal was to keep it small, simple and robust. One of the problems I encountered when letting kids play with the RC cars all day is that the axles in the differential tend to slip and move out. I hence build a differential assembly in which the axles are completely locked in and cannot move. The worst thing that could still happen is that a wheel comes off which is easy to fix. The car uses only one L-Motor and is pretty fast for that. The turning radius is very tight and the car is just fun to drive. The differential makes it perfect to drive around tight corners. The heavy battery pack is right on top of the back axle, giving it the best friction. Well, it does not accelerate like an F1, but it might still make a small difference. Building instructions, LXF, and further information are available.