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Found 122 results

  1. This engine is modeled after the GE 44 ton switcher locomotive. Why 44 tons, you may ask? I give you the answer from the Wikipedia article on this loco type: This locomotive's specific 44-short ton weight was directly related to one of the efficiencies the new diesel locomotives offered compared to their steam counterparts: reduced labor intensity. In the 1940s, the steam to diesel transition was in its infancy in North America, and railroad unions were trying to protect the locomotive fireman jobs that were redundant with diesel units. One measure taken to this end was the 1937 so-called "90,000 Pound Rule" :[citation needed] a stipulation that locomotives weighing 90,000 pounds (41,000 kg) – 45 short tons – or more required a fireman in addition to an engineer on common carrier railroads. Industrial and military railroads had no such stipulation. The 44-ton locomotive was born to skirt this requirement. The loco is bi-directional, and doesn't have much to differentiate between the "front" or "rear" expect for the air horn and exhaust stack on one end in real life. My LEGO model lacks these, so it's only way to tell which is front is by the headlights: clear for front, red for rear. I am going to name this loco WFP number 7007. (WFP stands for Wabash Frisco & Pacific, which is the name of a 12 inch gauge ride-on railway in St. Louis, MO.) They don't have a real 44 toner there, but do have a Fairbanks Morse H10-44 (number 704) in the same color scheme, so I made this engine as a companion to the H10-44. In the spoiler tag below, you will find a real life picture of a 44-toner loco. (I got the picture from railpictures.net, It is NOT mine!) Just for comparison purposes, here is the H10-44 I was talking about. NOTE: The H10-44 is NOT included in the GE 44-ton's LDD file! The (updated) LDD file for the GE loco is available here. Build updated 3-14-17 with a better 44 ton GE unit, courtesy of Henry Durand over on Facebook's LEGO Train Fan Club. Thanks Henry! Comments, Questions, suggestions and complaints are always welcome!
  2. German Luigi

    Steam Engine Train

    Hello, I would like to present my latest train MOC: a German steam engine. Steam engines appeal different from country to country. In Germany most steam engines had a red wheel undercarriage, steam engines in some other European countries too. For those who like steam engines completely black: all parts for this engine are already available. For those who like a red undercarriage: please support this set on LEGO IDEAS (https://ideas.lego.com/projects/133465). The steam engine bases on the steam engine https://en.wikipedia...i/Prussian_G_12. This steam engine was a goods train locomotive, and as goods train locomotives have small wheels for high traction force I used small LEGO train wheels. I did not like the plain, high gloss surface of the tender, so I decided to take bricks with studs on sides. These studs symbolize oversized rivets. I watched LEGO sets like freight train 60052. This set does not contain only a freight train, it also contains a truck and a fork lift. So you can transport something with the truck to the station, load it on the freight car and take it to the next station. At 1925 there were only a few trucks and no fork lifts, so I decided to add a horse carriage. Now you can play as you can play with freight train 60052: you can transport something to the station, load it into the freight car and transport it to the next station. Ludger
  3. Instruction V-8 Engine 32-Valve Lego Technic instructions: https://yadi.sk/d/P6II1vIEyBNT4 Implemented: 1. 8 Cylinder, 4 strokes, 32 Valve Engine 2. Valve Working close to the real Engine. 3. Intake and Exhaust Systems 4. Ignition system (spark ignition) 5. Supply system 6. Attachments Equipment 7. Oil Pump 8. Engine Support Cushions 9. The Belt Tensioners, and Other stuff Subscribe to the Shannel https://goo.gl/rmEAjx
  4. [MOC] V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 Hello everybody! I hasten to introduce you to a new job, V - shaped 8 cylinder 32 valve engine Lego Technic. This is the first part of the video. All the fun ahead. On this basis, you can do a lot of other engines v- shaped circuit or row. Instruction will be paid. Next proe plan to do on its base V - shaped 6-cylinder turbo engine for the installation of a new car bolid Formula-1. Implemented : 1. 8 Cylinder 32 Valve Engine 2. Valve Working close to the real Engine. 3. Intake and Exhaust Systems 4. Ignition system (spark ignition) 5. Supply system 6. Attachments Equipment 7. Oil Pump 8. Engine Support Cushions 9. The Belt Tensioners, and Other stuff YouTube Channel Subscribe to the Shannel Foto: MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr MOC V8 32 VALVE ENGINE LEGO TECHNIC PART 1 by Nikolay Zubov, on Flickr
  5. I recently purchased 21108 and I think it's one of the all time better sets from Lego. I really enjoyed building it, and I can tell you the endresult is awesome. Like you didn't know already huh. Still ater a while some things started to bug me, and I thought I could improve on some details and overall look. The frontend is unmistakenly 59 Cadillac, but somehow it didn't look right... Wheelwell had a wrong angle; the frontwheels were set too far back; the 'eyebrows' above the headlights stick too far out; the hood is too flat compared to the fenders; too much room between frontwheel and lights because of wrong use of snot-technique, etc... I think I have improved the original model. After I modified the exterior I came across this post by flailix, and his work inspired me to do a proper interior and engine bay. I had just one problem: My car is one stud shorter than the original. So that meant I got even less room to place all 4 minifigs... But I managed to do so... ^ seating ALL 4 minifigs! ^ detailed V8 engine bay ^ notice not one but two exposed studs behind the frontwheel. Somehow it doesn't feel like Lego has forgotten something anymore It now looks like the car has a doorline. ^ I replaced the inverted slope which just had the wrong angle and made the bodywork between frontlights and wheel too large with a cheeseslope. By using other snot-parts I managed to shrink it a bit further and clean up the bumperside by separating it from the headlights. ^ Major modification was shortening the cab by a stud. It forced me to create open windows which I love. The windshield is set back to create more bodywork between frontwheel and windshield. The roofrack needed to be set back a stud creating less room at the back of the roof. Just like the real thing. The blue hoses are now compact together compared to the original set. I used an extra slope next to the hoses to let the body have a better flow. ^ now that the ladder is set back one stud I could attach it by clicking it into a red 1x1 clip I placed in the fin. On this side also more slope pieces above the rear wheel for better flow ^ I used a plate to give the bumper more mass. ^ the round studs don't bother me as much as they do on the original. It's much more a 'one piece' frontfender. It even suggested me to use round studs in the hoodcorners. It really helps rounding off the hoodcorners. The hood got raised because I thought it sat too low between the fenders. ^ now this was the most difficult task: Creating enough room for a decent interior that can seat all 4 minifigs. I'ts not able to hold all 4 backpacks but it does have room for a trap ^ sure it's kinda cosy but hey, it fits!
  6. Hello, while waiting for hoth i build the ISD last month. This is a really massive build considering the retail price of 299$ in 2002. Huge value for the money. time to share some pictures. Colour - light gray and dark gray, also invisible parts have the correct color based on peeron inventory. Panel mounting - Magnets. There are some ridiculous part prices for the magnet mounts 30159, i should get the 3D printed substitutions in the next weeks. A Friend of mine is currently drawing them, for the meanwhile i used other mounting parts. part 2 is following
  7. Hello Everyone, Check this Air engine Out. We can all agree that Pneumatics wont do this. This Air engine is a recreation of the USS Monitor Steam Engine which is an early American War Ship that was built by Swedish American John Ericsson. This engine is pretty interesting with how it was designed to function. Its very elaborate engine design with opposed cylinder piston that functions a lever arm which is connected to a center crank shaft and it also is name the vibrating lever engine. It was such a neat build I made more then one videos to. I made another video where you see inside and can watch the cylinders move up and down.
  8. Hello After watching this I started to wonder if it was possible to build it with Lego and after some research I started building.IMG_0642 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The engine is extremely simple with only two holes in the piston housing allowing air in or out making it robust to use. Since it is only a single cylinder it uses a flywheel to keep the cam rotating. IMG_0640 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Unlike internal combustion engines found in your car where the piston is in a rigid housing or block making the piston have to have a ball joint allowing it to travel up and down this engine allows the entire piston and housing to rock or oscillate. IMG_0641 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I have made instructions A ReBrickable parts list will be made. Thanks for reading.
  9. Kintobor

    (MOC) S1 Switcher

    Hello! It's been awhile since I posted anything in this forum, but I wanted to show some of the progress I've made on a layout I've been working on by showing off the engine I'm going to use on it, namely an S1 Switcher. The engine itself still needs a bit of work on it, namely the height, but it does look nice working the harbour I've built. Building the nose of the engine proved somewhat troublesome, but I'm happy with the way it turned out. The back needs a bit of work done to it, but I'm relatively happy with the cab. The image above shows how the cab roof comes off in order to place figures inside. I've also built a transfer caboose to go alongside this engine that I hope to have posted soon. Feedback would be appreciated!
  10. Hi all! I've just submitted a set idea to Lego ideas, but reached a problem. Here's an image of the set idea below; as of writing this the idea is still awaiting approval so is not on the Lego Ideas website: While i've put a lot into making the set look nice and giving it playability, there is one problem that I still feel like i should tackle to make this a solid idea for a set. Most/all train sets produced by Lego are supplied with the ability to have Power Functions. As this is a small saddle tank engine, there is no room for a motor. The passenger carriage does have space that could accommodate a power functions battery and receiver, but that would mean that the engine and coach would have to be permanently attached. Lego won't make alternative molds for ideas sets, so suggesting an alternative motor design would not be possible. Does anyone have any ideas? would be a great help! Many thanks, Isaac.
  11. Moto Engine Lego Technic I present to you the motorcycle engine Lego Technic. This engine will be used in the motorcycle, which soon completed yet. clutch and damper control will be carried out with the help of ropes. Sorry that is not attached more photos. Not to deal with this topic) Functions: 1) Transmission of a set of 42048 2) Work Clutch 3) Simulation Operation Throttle Foto: http://bricksafe.com...es/Nikolay/moto Moto Presentation http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=134838 https://www.flickr.c...157669168217032
  12. Hi Eurobrick Train fans =:) Im trying to find if anyone knows where I can buy these steam train instructions under this listing on ebay 281956356126. The seller mentions printed instructions in the listing notes. I have tried to contact the seller but I have had no reply. Ive looked on railbricks and have downloaded the BR23 instructions there but model is not very robust. Any help appreciated :) Kind Regards Yogi from Oz !
  13. Hello for a project I'm lookibg for concepts to solve some problems. One particular problem I have is building a V8. Fir the project I want to build a Cosworth DFV engine. It has a bank angle of 90°. The standard lego parts have an angle of 120° and when I want to use pure lego I'm out off ideas how to solve this. The none lego approach is doing the 'efferman' and construct your parts fir 3d printing but I'd like to solve this with pure lego. Thanks fir the help.
  14. The shed is based off set 60103 (Airport Air Show) and has now been updated (3/4/16) to have a bigger, stronger roof with less gaps. I also removed the inner platform as it wasn't my best work and didn't look right. This construct is a 74 studs long x 32 studs wide locomotive shed. (that's the actual shed coverage, not the track itself: the track is 80 studs long alone) For those of you who like math, or would want to build this yourself, the size of the shed + track in more conventional measurements is 25 inches or 63.5 centimeters long and 10 inches / 25.4 centimeters wide. I don't know the height, but it is the same height as my new black-and-red shed design and my older World City building. By the way: baseplates were not added for two reasons: 1) the model is slightly off at some point and does fit in real life, but not digitally. (you will either need a 32 x 80 stud baseplate, or a combination of smaller baseplates.) 2) Baseplates keep crashing the model file for some reason. The shed is 11 bricks tall at it's lowest point, and 15 bricks tall in the center. The side view of the model. The shed can accommodate 8 wide trains with ease and is extendable to be as long or as short as you need it. Here we see my Southern Pacific GS-6 "Daylight" 4460 and a 4-8-2 mountain type locos with the shed to give you a sense of scale. These are the longest locomotives (not including two unit diesels) I own, and they fit with room to spare. Please note: The engine's are NOT included in the shed's digital file! And here it is in real life to help you figure the size of the shed. LDD file for the shed ONLY: http://www.moc-pages.com/user_images/80135/1457118933m.lxf (If you are interested in the steam loco and want to know more / have the LDD file, please look here: http://www.eurobrick...topic=118894 ) Comments, questions, and complaints welcome!
  15. Severus A

    [MOC] R.C. Small Shunter

    I've built this small engine for a harbor freight terminal layout that I've made. It is not a real locomotive replica. I admit that I am closer to the playability side and I prefer the works which keep more of a toy atmosphere :) This shunter was built on a 14 X 6 studs base and has enough space for the cables, I.R. receiver and the minifig. The access to the battery box is easy from the upper side and the communication between R.C. and I.R. receiver is perfect. More pictures could be seen here: https://www.flickr.c...157663795962040 LEGO R.C. Shunter 1 by Severus A, on Flickr LEGO R.C. Shunter 2 by Severus A, on Flickr LEGO R.C. Shunter 3 by Severus A, on Flickr LEGO R.C. Shunter 4 by Severus A, on Flickr
  16. Hi all. I'm asking for some advices from experts. I am into lego technic "standard" constructions from a few years, now I want to enter in the world of modding and make some custom creations. I love electric models, speed and the "mechanical engineering" behind LTechnic. I also know the existence of SBrick and I love the idea and I want to support them. Then i think that a good start can be the motorization of an existing model, adapting it to power function, engine, steering and SBrick. I am thinking about buying the 42037 Off Roader or maybe the 42039 LeMans Race Car. I have an old (10-15 years old) offroader, I can disassemble it and get some parts from it, mabye. So I think I'm going to buy: - SBrick - XL Engine (I know it's a bit overpowered but I want to create a speedy car and reuse the engine for future creations) - Servomotor - Power Functions - 42037: Formula Off Roader OR 42039: 24 Hours Race Car Is it a good way to start? I need something else important?
  17. Hi there folks, thanks for taking a look @ my creation. When I started driving (real) cars I loved to lower them, coilovers, airride, I tried everything! Now that I drive a real life Subaru Forester (1998) and take it off road occasionally, I am starting to like off roading and their techniques a lot! So I wanted to create a (small as possible) Lego off road chassis with these elements built in: -Front wheel steering system -Rigid axle with free suspension movement front and rear. Capable of off roading and some rock crawling. -4x4 connection with center diff. Front and rear axle locked. -Turning engine concept. After trying a lot of concepts in LDD, I figured its quite hard to put these elements into a very small working chassis. I tried to fit a Boxer engine (Subaru) in there, but it just wouldnt fit. I came up with a chassis wich I wanted to order @ Lego 'pick a brick', but figured that 'pick a brick' does not have enough bricks available I checked some more shops, but lost hope to order the separate bricks. So I wanted to show you guys my concept wich is not complete. Also LDD has some issues with the hinge tool. Its a very nice piece of software, don't get me wrong What do you guys think? (More pictures coming, photobucket is acting a bit strange, sorry)
  18. A Full Blown Engine, Visible Transmission, Retractable Hood, Adjustable Wheel, Repair Tools - these are just some of the specs of the new Hot Rod 27! If you enjoy my project and you'd like to see it on the shelves, please support it here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/129293 The Story: I've always loved inventing new Lego toys. A few years ago I began building a custom hot rod. I wanted to make a car that would not only look good, but that would also be realistic. That's how I gave it a transmission that goes from the full blown engine to the front wheels, as shown in the video: A few days ago I found out about Lego Ideas and I wanted to submit my car, but I had new ideas. I wanted to make it more playable. That's how I came up with the retractable hood and the adjustable wheel. I made it so that a minifigure is able to enter the cockpit and drive the car, and even wear a helmet. Furthermore, I added some tools near the cockpit, in case the engine malfunctions or there's a flat tire. It also has front lights and tail lights, a radiator in the front, lateral exhaust pipes, adjustable engine pistons, rear-view mirrors, a big gas tank and slick, wide tires in the back. Dimensions: 14 x 7 x 4 cm ( approximately ) With about 140 pieces, the Hot Rod 27 can become an affordable and easy to build custom car!
  19. Hiya guys! Hope you guys can help me out here. Is there a way to check how these train motors work? I've got two of the black ones. They seem to be complete. I'd love to know if they are in working condition, but I haven't got a clue how to check... I'm a nitwit when it comes to electronics I'm afraid U_U Hope you guys can help me out! Thanks!
  20. Hello everyone. I am rather new to Eurobricks, and I'm happy to be on this site now posting and commenting on lego creations, etc. Anyway, I've always liked Classic Space. I've been ordering a lot of space stuff from Ebay and Bricklink lately in hopes of assembling a moon base in the future. So while I'm waiting for those, with the space stuff, and the blue parts I currently have, I decided to make a variety of neo-classic space stuff for the moon base too. I may release a few more ships in the coming days, weeks, etc. Anyway, here it is. SpaceSpeeder1 by Jim Kirk, on Flickr So frontal view. The Classic Space minifigs patrol the planet surface. The build is very simple, but I like it. It has a frontal blaster/scanner, controls and a seat for one minifig, and a back engine. SpaceSpeeder2 by Jim Kirk, on Flickr Side view. Antenna for communicating with the base. Hope you liked it, please leave comments, criticism, etc. Thanks.
  21. buffalo movies

    British Rail Class 08

    A British Rail Class 08 Diesel shunter, motorised with power functions BR 7 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 8 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 3 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 1 by Golem Lord, on Flickr Easy removal of roof to access on/off switch. Please comment below!
  22. LegoGunInstructions

    Lego Freight Train idea & instructions

    A brand new custom lego Freight Train made in LDD. I can't seem to upload the screenshots here. Check out the screenshots on MOCpages: [link removed: self promotion]
  23. Sunder

    [LDD MOC] Rocket engines

    Some types of rocket engines without any fiction. Liqued fuel engines are the most usual. As for nuclear engines, they were tested in USA and USSR and were ready to be produced. Ion engines are also not a fiction. They are used by long rage probes. The only unreal engine here is the photon engine. In theory it is possible to make it, but there some problems with anti-matterial "fuel".
  24. As first preparation for a Technic MOC of the famous Fokker Dr. I, I tried to make the most compact 8-cylinder radial engine (I know, it should be 9-cylinders...) See attached the solution I came up with, but with this size the model would still be 100 studs long/wide and this a bit too big to my liking after the huge Cadillac. If anybody has a solution for a working 8-cylinder that is smaller then this, please let me know. This one does howvever work quite nice also at high speeds (~1500 RPM) Instructions can be found on rebrickable: http://www.rebrickab...aircraft-engine
  25. Hi, this is my first post to show a moc in this forum. (Please scroll down to read this post in german.) I'm proud to present my new train engine - a czech T478. It's a diesel power cargo train engine and this model (in different colors) is very famous in czech and sometimes you can see it in eastern germany / saxony. I build it only with original lego parts. There are no custom parts or custom stickers. Also I doesn't like stickers. If I can't find a decorated part with pattern (not sticker), I build without any pattern. In August 2013 I built the first version of this train - in blue-white with a yellow ribbon around it. But I should see, the locomotive in this color is not used for freight. So I decide to built another one of this train. But this time I would build it with round porthole windows, and I would used the 1x2x2 panels with porthole. The brick builded portholes are too big for this train. But the 1x2x2 panels with porthole are only in three colors: orange, red and light gray. To buy twelfe parts of the light gray version - this was too expensive for me. The first idea was, to use the orange one, because there is a nice color version of this train in orange and white. But in this case I also need one tan colored panel with porthole at each side. And it's also a train, mostly used with passenger cars. So I decide, to build the T478-3283 version. Here you can see it with her blue-white sister. This version is used in cargo trains. The model of this train is the T478 3283 of the czech train company (ČD). Here the Original and a Kühne-model train. It's very closed between the top of the rail and the bottom of the train case. But between this, it's place for the window pane - it's the ladder. Not nice is the color different between the panels with porthole and the other bricks. The panels are not really red, but rather dark red. But it's also not really like the dark red bricks. It was very difficult to find some special parts, like paneels with porthole, the window panes in light gray, or a thin red technic liftarm at the top of the roof: rar parts or parts hard to find - 12 pieces - 4 pieces in light gray (old color) - 4 pieces - used only one time, but hard to find, I think - 2x - I decide to used this parts in light gray, not light bluish gray - also 2x - but it should be the same color - light gray! - 2x - and also in light gray (not so good idea with this color ;) ) Now, boths engines are ready to drive around at my little landscape, called "Kleinplastitzsch" - or "Małe rzeźby". It sounds polish, but I think, it's not really a polish word. But the village "Kleinplasitzsch" could exist at the german border to Poland and Czech. Thanks for reading. I'm happy about criticism and praise comments. You can also find the original post (in german) at the 1000steine-forum, at my blog or here: MTM Hallo liebe geneigte Leser, nachdem ich im August 2013 (so lang ist das schon wieder her), die erste Taucherbrille / Brejlovec der tschechischen Eisenbahn vorstellte, merkte ich sehr schnell, dass ich da zwar eine schön hässliche Lok hatte, die zudem in LEGO bisher kaum gebaut wurde (und auch bis heute nicht), aber: Es war eine Personenzuglok. Ich googelte viel, fand aber in dieser Lackierung (blau-weiß, mit gelbem Streifen) kein einziges Bild mit Güterwaggons hinten dran. Da ich aber vor allem Güterverkehr haben wollte, gab es nur eine Lösung: Ich musste noch eine Güterzuglok bauen. Zum Glück gibt es die tschechischen Lokomotiven in allerlei Farben: Diesmal wollte ich die "Fehler" der ersten Version ändern und deswegen beschloss ich, richtige Bullaugenfenster haben zu wollen. Damit blieben bloß drei Farbvarianten übrig: rot, grau oder orange, weil es dieses Paneel eben nur in diesen Farben gibt. Zuerst wollte ich eine orangene bauen, weil es eine sehr schöne Güterzuglackierung mit orangenem Oberteil gibt. Aber auch hiermit wird überwiegend Personenverkehr betrieben, außerdem bräuchte man noch ein tan-farbenes Bullaugenpaneel... Grau fiel ob des Paneel-Preises und dessen Verfügbarkeit aus (ich brauch immerhin 12 davon) und so wurde es eine rote. Das Vorbild dazu ist eine Version vom Modelleisenbahnhersteller Kühne, bzw. hier in Original. Wieder mit gelber Bauchbinde, diesmal aber nur an der Front. Also weniger Bauchbinde als Zierstreifen. Der Rest sollte eigentlich Routine sein, dachte ich. Die Bautechnik an der Seite ist wohl einfacher als die mit der Zickzackbinde und ich könnte das Modell zeitnah vorstellen, die Bullaugenpaneele hatte ich ja schon vor Jahren mehrfach in Südkorea bestellt, also: Kein Problem - dachte ich mir. Aber dann wurde es wieder schwierig: Die grauen Teile des Fahrgestells waren gar nicht so einfach - und preiswert - zu besorgen. Aber man kennt ja Leute, die ab und an zum Stammtisch kommen und nach und nach wurde es. Dann kamen noch zwei Friends-Sterne für die typische Front dazu und jetzt ist sie endlich fertig und bereit für ihre Einsätze. Nicht so schön sind zwei Sachen: (1) Erstens sind die Bullaugenfenster nicht farbecht, sondern viel dunkelroter als die normalen Steine. Richtig dunkelrot sind sie aber auch nicht. (2) Zweitens: Gibt es die Dreiecksfahnen noch immer nicht in hellgrau. Auf Vorabbildern der 2015er-StarWars-Collection sah es zwar so aus, als würde es hellgraue geben, aber letztlich hat man sich im Set 70166 dann für sandblau ?! entschieden. Ärgerlich! Ironie des Schicksals war, dass ich, als ich mit der roten fertig war, dann doch ein Bild gefunden hab, wo die blaue im Güterverkehr eingesetzt wurde Das war allerdings dann erstmal die letzte Taucherbrille, die ich gebaut hab, glaube ich. Beide werden, die eine als Personenzuglok, die andere im Güterverkehr demnächst in Kleinplastitzsch zum Einsatz kommen. Über Kritik und Freudenschreie bin ich sehr dankbar. Gruß Micha