Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'electric'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • Guest Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU REGISTER!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic and Model Team
    • LEGO Mindstorms and Robotics
    • LEGO Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • LEGO Digital Designer and other digital tools
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)


Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Country


Special Tags 1


Special Tags 2


Special Tags 3


Special Tags 4


Special Tags 5


Special Tags 6


Country flag

Found 35 results

  1. Hi guys I was experimenting with my RC motors (I don't have power functions yet) and well, the motors are going crazy. I saw a topic mentioning putting 2 motors under one baseplate that whould be impossible as the motors would work against each other. But if im putting 2 wires on the battery box the motor that is connected to the top wire is driving backwards! Does someone know what is happening?
  2. New MOC! This is the first model of an electric locomotive I've built. The Pennsylvania Railroad used these odd-looking twin-unit electric locomotives starting in the 1910s. Each half of the locomotive was powered by a single large electric motor in the body, connected to the driving wheels via a jackshaft and side rods, resulting in an effective wheel arrangement of 4-4-0+0-4-4 (2'B+B2' in UIC notation). To me, the jackshaft-and-side-rods drive system is a key part of the DD1's appearance. Consequently, the first thing I did was to figure out how to replicate the mechanism as faithfully as possible within the width of the model. By SNOT-ing the sides of the locomotive, I was able to make the bodywork only 1 plate thick in places, allowing me to pass a technic half-beam behind them. As a side benefit, the studs on the side line up nicely with the rivet lines on the prototype. After figuring out the mechanicals, I designed the bodywork in LDD, then placed a whole bunch of BrickLink orders with Commander Wolf to acquire all the windows, 1x3 tiles, and the giant pile of brackets required for the SNOTwork. I actually finished the model a couple weeks ago, but the soggy weather and other commitments prevented me from taking photos until now. I also took some video: Brickshelf gallery Let me know what you think!
  3. Hi Everyone! I've been lurking around the forums for quite a while now, posting every now and again, but haven't really introduced myself. Well, I'm an AFOL currently studying for a Ph.D. in computer science and have been playing with lego since I was a small child. In my early teens my family could finally afford to get us some lego trains and I fell in love with them immediately. I currently live in the UK, but I spent most of my life in Canada and was born in Poland. I also studied in Poland, where I used to take the trains daily to my university. You can see where I'm going with this :) I love the old Polish locomotives that are still in use today, especially when they contrast against modern carriages. I've designed an EU07 locomotive in LDD and wanted to share it with everyone. I'd very much welcome any comments and criticisms - I'd like to make any changes to the designs before I actually order the bricks (although I'm still undecided whether to order the pieces for this locomotive or 2 Horizon Express sets). The end result with carriages that I'm going for is something like this: http://www.bahnbilde...-als-12231.html (I've always wanted double-decker cars!). The livery and exact model of the locomotive that I'm building, however, are based on this: http://www.bbajko.fr.../EU07-368-2.jpg Well, here's the locomotive, I hope you like it! It's my first real MOC and the first train I've ever built in 8-wide. Please don't mind the pantographs - I intend to cut the tubing down to size, which I unfortunately cannot do in LDD. I would also like to credit markervip from the LUGPol forums for the idea to make the front windshield! His original post (in Polish) is available here: http://www.lugpol.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14701
  4. After much preparation I am proud to present the instructions for my Skid Steer Loader, based on the New Holland LS160; It's driven by two electric motors, steers differentially, and the boom and bucket are pneumatic. Check it out moving about on .Control is by a tethered hand controller with built in automatic pneumatic pump - instructions are included for this. There's also a chapter describing the building techniques I used, loads of photos of the model and real machine, and instructions for an optional pneumatic grab attachment. You can buy the instructions from my website and MOCplans for a small charge of $12 - these are rendered by Eric Albrecht, so you know you are buying quality. I've listed the model on Rebrickable, so it should be easy to figure out if you have the parts you need to build it! Enjoy, and please let me know what you think :-) Jennifer
  5. My PRR B1 has reproduced itself into a PRR Class BB1. When PRR bought the first batch of the units, they came in BB1 configuration. The units were semi-permanently joined together. Only later on in life did PRR separated them into single B1 units and ordered further units as B1. PRR Class BB1 by dr_spock_888, on Flickr As a BB1 model, there is room to add Power Functions. An XL-motor can replace the M-motor if more power is needed. I had to add tires to the drive wheels to give it more traction around curves. I find the 0-6-0 wheel configration fascinating in these electrics. YouTube video: More pics on my BrickShelf: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=539207
  6. dr_spock

    MOC: PRR B1 Switcher

    Presenting my little Pennsylvania Railroad B1 electric boxcab switcher. The B1 was a 700HP switcher used on the PRR. It had an interesting looking 0-6-0 wheel arrangement. They were built between 1926 and 1935. Originally they were operated in semi-permanent pairs as the BB1 class. They were splitted into single B1 units later on. I built this engine as it was a cute little boxcab and to learn to make stickers with Avery labels. It was also a good use of the wheel set from the LEGO Monster Fighter's Ghost Train. In order to motorize it, I may have to build another one to make a BB1 unit. The B1 currently doesn't have enough room to fit in the battery box, IR receiver and motor. That's a project for another day.
  7. I thought that I recalled reading somewhere on the internet a long time ago that Power Functions motors have no internal gearing. What the? Well, it looks like that wasn't true. Now that I think of it, I think that I have heard the noise of the internal planetary gears when I run my Emerald Night. I'm just used to the sound, and I may have mistaken it for the buzz of the electric motor. But I question if it's really a good idea to include internal gearing. Couldn't they have a smaller assembly if there was no internal gearing? Or they could have a larger electric motor inside with more total power-output. I would also expect the motor to be cheaper because of the simpler preassembly. Yes, I am aware of the basic fact that the gears are used to trade speed for strength. Wouldn't it be better if they just let us build that with our Technic gear pieces? Because Technic gears would take more space, maybe a separate preassembled planetary gearbox? I think that there are more Technic models that use gears to increase the speed of the motor than decrease it. It would probably be better if they at-least reduced it to one lair of planetary gears. I only know the basics of how an electric motor works. But I don't know exactly what determines all the specifications. Is there a way to adjust the balance of speed and strength while the motor is being built? I would expect there to be some way.
  8. Chro

    Blindvolt

    A powerful AI enforcer created after the fall of Toa Oxell at the hands of his at-the-time psychotic partner Toa Ramnux. Blindvolt wants to prove he's more than a machine. His first emotionless action once put online was to put Ramnux out of his misery, which (now that he has developed a personality) is a decision that Blindvolt has come to completely regret. His name stems from the fact that justice is blind- and from his electric weaponry as well- though this title is merely poetic and Blindvolt himself is far from sightless. ^ CLICK THE IMAGE ABOVE TO VIEW THE MOCPAGES GALLERY . ^ This MOC was made in March 2013. Feedback is appreciated.
  9. legotrainzman

    MOC: Little Joe

    Hello, I´m new to the forum, but I like lego trains. I have some plans to bring this model of milwaukee roads little joe locomotive to life. I wonder which the best way to buy separate bricks are