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Showing results for tags 'advice'.
Found 35 results
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Hi guys. As you can tell from the title I need to repair a technic figure. I have this guy: And most unfortunately someone small used him a little like a doll and his left arm snapped off at the shoulder joint. Now, what happened is the pin/peg snapped clean at the point it met the arm, so the entirety of it is inside the torso with a tiny dimple left on the arm itself. I noticed the peg was hollow and the arm did have a dimple, so running a small risk of limited movement I attempted my own repair. Using a carefully trimmed piece of the sprue two minifig keys come on I dipped the one end of this little pin/rod into Revell Model Glue and popped it into the hole of the pin left in the shoulder. So far, so good. The glue cured and the new repair pin remained in place with normal handling. Then I trimmed it to the best length to attach the arm using the remains of the original peg. Dabbed glue into the dimple of the broken peg on the arm, placed it onto the pin and with a little masking tape to hold it in place, left the glue to cure. First try, the arm came away with the tape. Second try, the arm fell off once the tape was gone. It is leaving a nice mass of glue on the tip of the pin (formed to the shape of the dimple on the arm...) I am guessing it is either not the best adhesive to use in this situation, the plastics won't bond or that there just isn't enough of the original peg left on the arm to join it right. What would you suggest? I could get a different glue (I am on the hunt for some as a few action figures got mashed too. Poor Sam Flynn is now headless and my Big Duo is Last Appearance accurate!) or is it better to get the leftover peg out of the torso and put a new arm in?
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Hello LEGO Action Figures community! I build 1/12 scale fully posable figures (like GoodSmile Figma or Kotobukiya figures) of anime characters and I was reevaluating my arm design. Here's how the arm design I've been using currently looks like, the one on the left I use for short-heighted characters and the one on the right I use for characters who are average-heighted: This design has been reliable for my first few figure creations, but I am facing two problems. One is that the short arm (left) is very crude and looks ugly. I think I made the arm too short, but there are of course, many characters that call for short arm length. I try my best to make my figures' arms as articulated as possible, but I would like to find a way to make arms, short and long, with the exact amount of articulation, but that are more realistic to actual human arms, which is really difficult to achieve in 1/12 scale. The second problem is that both arms do not have the articulation needed to spread their arms out like this: So I tried putting a clip on the end of the larger arm's elbow, connecting the rest of the arm but able to achieve the articulation I wanted, but now the upper arm above the elbow is fragile with the removal of a 1x2 plate to make room for the 1x1 bracket, and the elbow clip is only hanging on by a stud. Not exactly the solution I was hoping to achieve. Below is what the leg design looks like on my figures too. Only showing this because I was curious if the hip design (just a brick with the legs connected to it attached to the bottom of the body) could be improved to look less weird, unless you think it's not weird and fine the way it is. Is it possible for anyone to help me find the best design for 1/12 scale action figure arms (a 6-stud long design for short figures and a 7-stud long design for average-heighted figures) that look realistic and less blocky than my designs, but are also fully articulated like on a traditional 1/12 scale fully posable action figure? Like these arms, (figure by Moc_Lobster on Rebrickable) but without the use of ugly gray ball joint pieces and preferably more realistic.
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I'm making a 10 studs wide Peterbilt Dump Truck for my Uncle and wanted the bonnet to open. However, I haven't been able to come up with a solution for how to make the hood open. This is where I want the bonnet when it is open... ...and here is where I want it to be when closed. Any building advice? Note that I want to be able to fit a detailed Cummins X15 engine under the hood so I don't want the bits and hinges that make the hood open to take up that much space. I can upload a Studio file of the entire truck's front end if you'd like. Thank you.
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I have never built an action figure with Lego before, but after tons of trial and error I'm happy how the legs came out so far. My only problem is I need to find a solution to keep the articulation the legs already have while adding the ability for the legs to rotate for even more dynamic poses. Photos from Studio are below, any advice would be very appreciated, I look forward to making many more figures in the future and I want the articulation to be accurate.
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Firstly I have done a search on building techniques and although I found lots of helpful information I couldn’t find what I was looking for. After years of wanting to make my own Hoth base I have finally taken the plunge and bought a load of loose bricks. I have built lots of sets over the last three years, from various themes (40+ at least) I am yet to make my own creation though. I am going to purchase a 7666 Hoth base to give me the foundations, the plan is to modify it and, in the future, add the Echo base control room. My question isn’t straight forward- I really don’t know where to start on the build, I have bought several lots of bricks: 2X http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 Also found some ice pieces (and a load of trans light blue 1x1 tiles) in this lot: http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1439.l2649 My quandary is, do I build the base to a set size of base plate or build it to the vehicles I want to place inside? I was thinking about going 48 x 20 outside. I am hoping this will give enough room to place the blast doors and end wall on and for some trenches and gun turrets etc. I haven’t given the inside much though as of yet, probably to include an x wing and two snowspeeders. My idea to make is different to any others I have seen it to put mezzanine floor at the rear of the set. I am hoping this will give the dio a bit more texture and not be quite so linear. Made up of these: http://www.bricklink...86&itemID=64904 To summarise, I would love to hear some advice on the planning stage- I don’t want to spend a fortune on buying base boards (aren’t they expensive?!) and find they aren’t the right size for my build. Maybe sketching out my idea is the way forward? Thanks in advance, Edbrick
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[HELP] Building Exterior/Interior for Chassis
StudWorks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
After finally building a functional chassis for my MOC I'm ready to start on the exterior and interior detail. Since this is the first time I'm making a 1:8 sports car, I would really welcome some advice from the community. When looking at the chassis photos please note that the EV3 IR sensor will not sit on the large motor for the final product. My car MOC is a 1:8.3 scale replica of the Lexus LC500 in Porsche 911 GT3 RS orange. The most challenging parts for me will be replicating the body with panels (I never replicated the shape of a car for an MOC), as well as the headlights, taillights, center console, and an engine cover with details under the hood. I will also be putting a medium motor in the trunk to power the small retractable wing as seen on the Premium Package for the LC500. Chassis Pictures: Blueprints and exact measurements (in inches) for the MOC according to Sariel's model scaler: Thank you. -
I have gone througth the tutorial and seen several very noce things. However, I'd like to know how this door can be articulated. I don't know the right part "handle" and on what thing it can go. Thanks
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Hi! I'm starting this topic to ask if anyone knows the best tools to cut through a lego part? Because I would like to cut the shoulder pad (rounded area on the pic) from a part from BrickWarriors because its on the wrong side and I found a better one for my custom minifig, but i'd like to simply keep the torso from that part but i do not know which tool to use. Thanks in advance to anyone who will reply!
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Hi. I'm a Lego Technic MOC builder but when I got into Lego years ago I have got a lot of sets and made some... interesting MOCs. I'm considering to change up my display setup to make it look better, and I thought asking for advice and suggestions would be a great idea. Here's the collection as of now: The left shelf has my MOCs and the right shelf has sets and space MOCs. (The posters above are going to be removed) Left Shelf On the top of the left shelf are cars I made over 3 years ago. They're not pretty, and I probably won't be taking them apart for new builds since I'm giving my full time to Technic. On the middle of the shelf is some custom Bionicle figures I made as part of a weird story I made on the now defunct Lego.com gallery. On the bottom of the shelf is a... quirky house with a living room, kitchen, closet, bathroom, and bedroom that I made probably four years ago, broke, and rebuilt. It serves no use and its use as a display piece is kind of worthless, but it's one of the biggest things I built at the time. The playground on the middle shelf used to be connected to the right of the house. It hurts to remember having it on my dresser not playing with it because the house wasn't pretty. I should rebuild the house into something new but I'm keeping it as a memory and since all the pieces are a different color and I have no idea what to build. MineCraft Display A ton of MineCraft sets I got to connect to each other and make a cool display. Unfortunately I ignore it often and never got to my plans to put a MineCraft wallpaper up to make it look like a set box, but I'd like to. Right Shelf Just built sets and space MOCs I made forever ago. Top Shelf I expanded the shelf above by placing two poster frames and holding them up with a bar mounted in the wall, making it easy for removal and since I don't want to use a permanent structure. I like it but it's impossible to see items placed all the way back, so I don't know if I want to keep it or not. Here's the bar it was on... And here's the shelf I put the boards on top of. A lot of the items on the shelves are builds I don't have as much interest in as the large Creator cars I want to display here so I'm open for ideas. If this was your space to display your Lego collection, what would you do? How would you display creations you like and the ones that are not as interesting?
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Hello! So, I am starting to create a realistic LEGO City Layout, based off of metropolutan areas like New York City or Hong Kong. I want to have billboards in my city to add the feel of Corporate America and commercialism in my city (which are defining features of cities like NYC). I abhor stickers, because I would rather have a brick-built sign than a sticker (I reserve stickers for things you can't build, like a menu sign within a building). Any tips on making realistic brick-built billboards? I see all these cool images online, many of whom use SNOT, but I don't know how they specifically built it. I am quite new to MOC building in general, so I appreciate any and all help! Thanks
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Advice on selling LEGO MOCs and what are your experiences on it?
ExeSandbox posted a topic in General LEGO Discussion
Hello! I am just curious about this, and was wondering if anyone here has had experience in selling your MOCs online, or physically (like in a convention)? Because I have some interests in selling some MOCs myself, but I haven't had any experience doing so and it would be really great if you could give some advice on it. Here are some questions that I have: .1) How do you calculate the pricing on your creations? Do you charge based on costs of parts, workmanship, and shipping charges? Do you also mark up some more after that? .2) Have you experienced any pitfalls or miscalculations that might result in a loss of profit? Do some of you sell, but not for the profit? .3) How do you order your parts to build the models? If it's from sites like Bricklink or Ebay, there is the added price of shipping. Does every charge for shipment add up to the MOC's price? - Or do you bulk buy LEGO kits and create MOCs from there. If so, how do you go about calculating the price of the MOC? I would be very grateful for your advice on this! Many thanks! -
Sci-Fi Projects on LEGO Ideas - Discussion and Advice
Digger of Bricks posted a topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
Seen any great Sci-Fi themed LEGO Ideas projects from others that you would like to share or discuss? Do want any advice or ideas for a Sci-Fi themed project that you would like to submit? Talk about it all here, where any Ideas project that fits under the context of this subforum (from Steampunk to Cyberpunk to the final frontier and beyond) is game! Please, no self promotion of your own Ideas projects, only discussion of others submissions. -
Hey guys, I know that several people before me created similar threads but here, there are some specific people from whom I would really like to learn how they design modulars or non-modular buildings, from where they get inspiration, how do they start to design and which techniques they use to create their incredible buildings - so I mention them here. Would be extremely appreciated if you can share some of your knowledge and experiences. @snaillad, @cimddwc, @RoxYourBlox, @Pate-keetongu, @alois, @Norton74, @peedeejay, @Pakita, @lookl, @paupadros, @Kristel, @BrickyBoy, @AllanSmith, @fillishave, @Xenomurphy, @Brickenberg, @Jellyeater, @oirad 72, @sander1992, @DigitalDreams, @Skalldyr, @drdesignz, @Wodanis, @Berthil, @tkel86, @Captain Green Hair, @Stelario, @spaceman76, @PaddyBricksplitter, @Kalais, @pj_bosman, @Man with a hat, @Basiliscus, @kris kelvin, @Lasse, @Morty, @Sheriff von Snottingham, @Pepa Quin, @Inyongbricks, @mautara, @flat_four, @jaapxaap, @quy, @sasbury, @chumuhou, @Nannan, @nebraska, @Elostirion, @Imagine, @puddleglum, @genecyst, @Luky1987, @Gabor, @MichalPL, @higdon, @Gabe Umland, @Startbrickingtoday, @dvdliu, @Xtopher, @Toltomeja, @Klikstyle, @Colonel, @andybear@hk, @koffiemoc, @Naptown11, @SavaTheAggie, @tsi, @Regenerate builder, @mccoyed, @Brickextreme, @brickextreme2, @Wedge09, @SERVATOR, @BrickRally217, @macsergey, @Superfunk, @Ayrlego, @Chorduroy, @Dfenz, @denil85, @vecchiasignoraceppo, @SlyOwl, @kreimkoek, @Spacebrick, @frumpy, @teabox, @mouseketeer, @norlego, @Subix, @Bricksky, @TJJohn12, @Nick Barrett, @Legodt, @Danpb, @CorvusA, @Chapachuk, @tkatt, @otterlilly, @ranghaal, @nuno2500, @Hoexbroe, @wingyew29, @de-marco, @theycallmemrdarko, @savetheclocktower, @hugosantos, @Nieks, @TheBear, @TheLET, @Svelte, @modestolus, @exis, @wanseetoon, @Erdbeereis, @dalle, @chiukeung99, @eos512, @stej123, @6kyubi6, @LegoJalex, @Brickthing, @Anne Mette, @Ymarilego, @Clark, @Matija Grguric, @Ron Dayes, @Neverroads, @Kapp, @o0ger, @Asper, @Bennemans, @Matn, @Romanos, @Esben Kolind, @Minifig Lecturer, @Skrytsson, @brickbink, @sweetsha, @Konajra, @frogstudio, @WetWired, @pinioncorp, @Scrat, @crises_crs, @Nightfall, @SzU, @lisqr, @Huaojozu, @Klikstyle, @Bricked1980, @oo7, @brickbink, @Derfel Cadarn, @Priovit70, @CoolerTD, @Swan Dutchman, @Parks and Wrecked Creation, @Know Your Pieces, @adde51, @Lindon, @MaximB, @Zilmrud, @Mestari, @Fenom, @Adeel Zubair, @FiliusRucilo, @Wineyard, @vedosololego, @JanetVanD, @sdrnet, @Vincent Q, @Cecilie, @papercla, @Aliencat, @fonz, @Teddy, @Majkel, @Disco86, @Jasper Joppe Geers, @jaredchan, @Legopard, @Rolli, @Anio, @jalemac34, @Vincent Kessels, @Delbaerov, @Giacinto Consiglio, @ryantaggart, @vitreolum, @Alex, @eurotrash, @gabrielerava, @L@go, @STHLM, @sonicstarlight, @DK_Titan, @wooootles, @Hinckley, @castor-troy, @ER0L, @polarstein, @Elysiumfountain, @Tobysan, @Tijger-San, @Gunman, @alex54, @Palixa And The Bricks, @Redhead1982, @thomassio, @carebear, @RogerSmith, @gotoAndLego, @2013-lego, @niteangel, @MnnMtq, @kevin8, @koalayummies, @sheo, @hermez, @stef2280, @Cunctator, @domino39, @CarsonBrick, @eliza, @brickcitydepot and @Dakar A I know, that list is enormous, there are some who designed billions of buildings and some just one but they all absolutely deserve to be here! The people I mentioned here are personally my favorite MOCers (according to my taste). —But others, please feel free to share your knowledges and experiences, maybe I forgot to mention you or I just didn’t discover your beautiful buildings, and in this way I’ll discover
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[WIP] Lexus LC500
StudRobotics posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Here is a quick summary of a previous post. Right now I'm planning on a new project and I could use some help. It's a 1:8 scale model of Lexus' LC coupe powered by Lego Mindstorms EV3. Currently, I have the rear axle built off the instructions from the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I also made the engine for the LC500 on Lego Digital Designer and I am wondering if it is good enough to buy the pieces for it on BrickLink. I also want to add the following features: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Thank you. -
Hello! I am currently trying to create a box-like build, where on all sides i want to mount building plates. The base is 16x16, as are those vertical mounted plates. What I figured out so far on how to mount them with minimal space, are those bricks with knobs on one side. I should probably mention that i am also limited by the availability of bricks to buy from the official LEGO shop (Austria, if you are wondering; might be relevant as brick availability differs between countries?) I am looking for suggestions if maybe there is a better way to do this. Requirements: - plates need to be mounted on all 4 sides of a cube - top side stays open - as low profile as possible - side-plates should sit as flush as possible with base/top - front of plates on the side should be fully visible, as there will be additional artwork built upon them Thank you for your feedback!
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Hey All - I'm new and there is probably a thread here somewhere that answers my questions, so I apologize in advance for asking before really looking. I started buying and building the 66051, 60052 and others with some vague idea that I'd find a spot in the house and set up a fun layout. As a young man in the 70's I got into slot cars and I think I had some idea of incorporating those track layout concepts with the Lego trains. I like spirals as a method of changing levels and I'd like three levels - I keep seeing these videos online of people making these really long layouts that run from room to room in a house. I am determined to take a trip to visit the grandkids and take enough track that we can do a full house layout - With that kind of goal in mind I started looking and just buying pieces of track they cost 1.25 and up. I was hoping there would be a way to buy it bulk and get a better price but so far I haven't seen anything that looks workable. I'm an old dude on a fixed income - where do those folks in the videos get all that track???? Garage sales and flea markets????? Any advice you can give would be warmly welcomed. If I'm way out of line thinking I could do this for a few hundred dollars I need to know. I have high hopes for my layout and hope to soon share a vid of it - Thanks in advance EZ
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[WIP] Lexus LC500 EV3 1:8
StudRobotics posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
This is my first WIP post on EuroBricks where I will show my progress on my newest build, an EV3-powered 1:8 replica of Lexus' newest flagship coupe, the LC500. The car will most likely be a combination of both the standard and the V6 hybrid LC, but it will have a V8. The body will also be orange. Here's a photo I found of an LC that looks a lot like the one I am shooting for. Features I'm planning to add: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension All I built so far was the rear axle for the LC. It's exactly like the one in the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set but more reinforced. I also made the V8 engine using Lego Digital Designer. I plan to build the paddle-shifting mechanism used in Didumos' Ultimately Playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the one with the tilted wheel) and pair it up with a gearbox. I currently am having trouble whether to motorize his gearbox with the EV3 motors or to pick a different one with less gears and friction. I also am having a little bit of trouble finding the right front axle, though I like the one that Didumos put his Porsche because of the fact that is has two shocks for each wheel. However, I find it very difficult to fit the V8 engine in the middle since the axle is made for a rear-engine car. Here's a poorly drawn render I made of what I'm trying to achieve with the front axle. And here's the chassis in the real LC and the measurements for the LC Lego model. Overall, I'm excited about the build. I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Once I start working on the body and aesthetics, I would appreciate some input with that as well. I can also give you the download for the .lxf file of the engine if you'd like to check it out. I look forward to replying to your comments and sharing my progress. Thank you. -
Hey folks, it's me again asking for your advice on which Lego Star Wars set to buy! This time it's the 75105 TFA Millennium Falcon for like 110€, the 75190 First Order Star Destroyer for about 120€ or 75156 Krennic's Imperial Shuttle for 100€. Thanks in advance for your advice! (If this is inappropriate, just move it or delete please!) :D
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Kylo Ren's Tie Fighter vs U Wing Fighter (I need advice on what to buy)
Batsy posted a topic in LEGO Star Wars
Hi, I need some advice on what to buy myself because I simply cannot decide. It's either 75179 Kylo Ren's Tie Fighter or 75155 Rebel U-Wing Fighter. What do you think is better? Or is anything else in the price range (up to 75€; for example Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle which is on clearance in my area)? Thank you so much fpr helping me and if this is inappropriate, please delete :) -
Advice 4 Me Thread
TechnicRCRacer posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi, I set this up because I have noticed that most of the builders on here are much better than me. I see many things that I definitely have the parts to do, but I don't have the brains for it. Example: McPherson suspension, locking doors, brakes, etc. Does anyone have any good advice from building experience? Anything is useful. -
What to Buy Based on Availability (Buy before its gone recommendations)
Fenestra posted a topic in LEGO Town
Hey Guys, I have a list of things I want to buy over the next year (18 months) but don't want to miss out anything. My questions is what is the best order to buy things in (essentially what do I need to buy sooner rather than later). I am also included released and unreleased sets - I am new to this so I am playing some catch up! Here is the list of the planned purchases - Palace Cinema (Modular) Brink Bank (Modular) Assembly Square (Modular) Detective's Office (Modular) Big Ben Tower Bridge Friend's Catamaran (Inside joke for a friend) Old Fishing Hut (Fall) Birmingham Palace (Architecture) Potential New Architecture Sets Winter Village Addition - What order would you buy in? I want to pick up one big (Big Ben or Tower Bridge) or 2 Modular soon and then probably the same in May and then the Winter Village in the fall and maybe one more. I don't think I will be able to get them all this year but don't want to miss out (barely got Pet Shop before it was gone). So thoughts? -
I've been researching miltary moc's for months now, and finally have a couple of vehicles built and I was wondering how other people would start. I have a decent sized collection and was hoping to do the moc in a grayscale (white, gray, black). I was wondering if you had any advice for moc's of any size. Thanks- kartracer21
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Hi! This is my third MOC, it's a Pagoda Temple on a little creek. I wanted to build a winter situation, with the temple on a rocky base. I don't know if i do a good job with the rock, I'm not convinced. Also the water, there are some trick to improve it? What do you think? I can improve it? (sorry for bad english)
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A good day from the Netherlands (and already asking for advice)
Arcturus24 posted a topic in Hello! My name is...
Hello wonderful LEGO people, I'm a 20-year old student from the Netherlands and have been playing with LEGO for as long as I can remember. However, as I grew older, my interest grew less and less and the people I used to play and build with stopped doing so. The love still remained, and I still can't walk by a toy store without scanning for LEGO. However, when I moved into my own appartment, I took my collection with me (now also bolstered by one of my parent's old collections), and the spark of ignited again (somewhat). Lately, I've seen pictures of the Star Destroyer Tyrant, which sparked my inspiration like mad. The desire to pool my entire collection into one big build surfaced again, and I'm trying to get ideas for a space ship to build. However, looking at my OC's, I realized that I'm not a good enough builder to pull something off even remotely close (my latest cruiser fresh in mind, where I ran out of hull parts and inspiration half-way...). What I'm asking for mostly is advice on how to go forward. I really want to become a better builder, but seeing the progress I made over my youth doesn't bode well for any progress if I just keep stumbling on. What can I do to improve? Are there good articles to read? Video's to watch? Building exercises to do? Builds to study and draw inspiration from? (And is this even the right place to ask?) A note on my collection might also be appropriate: I've mostly collected medieval/fantasy themes and space/science-fiction themes, but also have a healthy amount of standard building bricks. Thank you for bearing through my ramblings and any advice you might be able to give! Arcturus24 -
I didn't get many Bionicle sets last year, but I am planning to get more in 2016. Is it worth it to get the 2015 Toa or should I just skip them? I'm going to get the Mask Maker vs. Skull Grinder, mainly for the small version of Ekimu and the Mask of Creation in pearl/gold. Are there any other 2015 sets I should get before I get on with 2016?
