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Found 313 results

  1. Tom_Brick

    [WIP] Dune Sandworm

    I wanted to continue with my current Dune obsession but there really isn't all that much inside the Dune universe which lends itself to be transformed into Lego. But I figured that a sandworm + rider would be a nice challenge. I have gone into Stud.io and tried to come up with something. While I do like the current look, I'm not sure if I continue down that path. The damn thing is just too big. It sits on three 32x32 base plates. We're already at more than 3600 pieces and the rear end is still missing, plus I only have a rudimentary support structure for the sand dunes. So I expect a final design to end up quite a bit north of 4000 pieces which is just unreasonable. Still, it was fun so far, so I might at least finish the design in Stud.io. But I doubt that I'll take it any further than that.
  2. I'm trying to design a realistic 5-link axle for an upcoming crawler idea. I wanted to make a genuine 5-link with as much travel as possible and a differential locker. I think I have the geometry 99% there. I also plan to add pneumatic shocks to complement/dampen the coil springs. Lego's new springs were appealing and compact, but the 9.5L springs have much more travel needed for high axle articulation. Let me know what you think/how it can improve: Here you can see the coils, the shock and most of the suspension links. This is a close-up with the pneumatic cylinder removed. The axle is designed for ~1:9-1:11 sized mocs and can be fitted with either a portal axle mounts (pictured here), or traditional ungeared mounts. Here you can see the lower control arms, the panhard rod, and diff locker. Here's a picture of the underside. I based this design off of Madoca's Dacoma axle. This was originally designed to accommodate a power ball joint for a more trophy truck-like suspension, but I have converted it into a 5-link axle design and scaled it up for 1:10 models. Finally, the underside of the chassis contains the upper control arms, mounting for panhard (bottom), and the driveshaft As you can see, this was formerly a powerjoint setup and can be converted back if desired.
  3. Tom_Brick

    [WIP] Dune Scout Ornithopter

    While I'm waiting for the parts to do my mod of the official Dune Ornithopter Set, I decided to play around a bit more and try to do the smaller thopter which Paul and Jessica used in the Dune Part 1 to escape the Sardaukar. This is of course still a very early stage. I started with the cockpit and then tried to design a downsized version of the flapping and folding mechanisms which I've basically taken from the official set. I will not include the the cool landing gear though. For one, it would take up too much space and secondly, the landing gear on this thopter works differently than on the one which was the template for the official Lego set. Maybe I can think of something really smart, but in the end, I'll probably just use ball joints, so that the landing gear will have to be put into place manually. Which means that from here on out, the main challenge will be to shape the exterior. One thing I have to admit to is that I have cheated with the colours. Unfortunately, these trans-yellow pieces don't exist. In the end, I'll have the choice between trans-clear and trans-brown. I think trans-brown will look nicer. Here's an interior shot of the cockpit with trans-clear windows.
  4. Tom_Brick

    Dune Ornithopter Mod

    I have to say, the Dune Ornithopter is probably my favourite new set in many years. But of course it is a bit rough and the bright colours are as always annoying. So I sat down in Studio and tried to make the Thopter look a bit smoother. Regarding the following picture, my modded version does not have the spring installed, that's why you can see the large gap next to the top right wing. In the finished product, it'll be there, of course. Side by side, you can also see that my mod is about 6 studs longer. Might look a bit funky with the wings folded in, but the overall proportions do look more like the movie thopter. If anything, it probably should be even longer, but then the wingspan would be more out of whack, so I figured that this was a good compromise. I'll have to see how it works in real life though. All in all still not perfect of course. It's just very hard to get a smooth surface. Plus, I wanted to keep all the functions and there was only so much one can do regarding the large gaps in the central section due to the folding mechanism. The tail construction is a bit wild, but it should be almost as sturdy as the original tail. Next step is to get the parts and try to build the thing. There might be some fine tuning needed which will only become obvious when dealing with real life bricks.
  5. Hello, long time lurker but never contributed anything. I been considering ideas to let my 12v trains also use the 9v/RC tracks and one of the problems was to make the 12v curved rails fit I guess other people have tried this to, but I realize by removing in total 4 stud I would get a snug fit and also a more convenient way to build track layouts. I also modified some straight tracks to be able to connect them with 12v rails switch points etc... I made as short video showing the process using cheap RC tracks and the next step would be using copper tape (and I need a extra set of 9v contact points) for the 9v system, not sure if I want to tape the 12v switch track but I guess I can test it out on a "broken" track. I thought that traction could be a problem but it seems to handle it well (test drive at the end of the video), there is some spinning when starting the train with "high" voltage but at soon as it moves it's coping quite well.
  6. I decided to do this thread because I am tired to open new ones again and again, so enough speaking about me lets go for the almost MOCs. It seems that we are on dumpers time because I am working on this massive small truck. It will be very simple, only 2 axles steering and bed tipping but I had some problems... the angle and weigh of the bed due the lack of room when the steering work, bed itself also was a problem with technic parts and the scheme color will be a imposible to solve problem at least for the real MOC. I think I do not have to say which the truck is.
  7. Update - December 02, 2023 Finished the model and ordered the pieces through BrickLink. I had to make some compromises, mainly with removing the idea of having the axles be extendable, and some issues with the safety bars of the manbasket. However, I am working with a company that makes decals for the real machine so that my MOC will have a full sticker set. Here's a few more pictures, showing how the side panels open, as well as the SNOT (potentially illegal building techniques) that I used for the glazier kit on the underside of the basket. JLG 1250AJP MOC Digital by Captain Contractor, on Flickr JLG Basket Underside MOC by Captain Contractor, on Flickr JLG Basket Underside by Captain Contractor, on Flickr Anyways, thanks for looking once more! I can't wait to share the completed thing with y'all! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Figured I'd share some progress of a build I've been working off and on in Studio 2.0. This is a scaled-down version of a 125 ft/38m boom lift built by JLG. I'm building it in the colors of Sunbelt Rentals, which is a nationwide North American machinery rental company. So far, it has both side compartment access panels functioning, with plans to include the extendable axles just like the real machine. I hope to have this model complete and built by the end of December. Lego JLG 1250AJP WIP by Captain Contractor, on Flickr And here's an image of the real machine for reference. Sunbelt JLG IRL Picture by Captain Contractor, on Flickr Thanks for looking!
  8. Well where to start, after i got back into building technic sets, the urge to create something of my own took over and i started to look around places where ppl discuss mocs, building techs and so on. That's how i got to eurobricks and the topics about rc and brushless motors in the lego world took my interest, cause moving things are cool. The eagle truck and in general the various mocs daniel-99 made gave me the motivation to create my own trophy truck and see how well bricks and rc components match. It's currently still wip as it's lacking a proper bodywork and might change once i can test it properly(to rainy atm). I'm not the best at presenting so feel free to ask. Quick overview: 4-Link live axle in the back Double wishbone in the front 3250kv brushless motor on 2s Lipo Geekservo for steering All carbon axle driveshaft fully with ball bearings Metal gears and metal u-joints Strong chassis for serious offroad driving Underbelly protection So far i'm using wheelhubs from zene with ball bearings and their closed metal differential. The whole driveshaft uses carbon axles, metal u-joints, metal gears and ball bearings. I kinda tried to mimick tropy truck suspensions, so it got a 4 link live axle in the back and a double wishbone suspension in the front. Havn't figured out how i could add roll protection on the back axles as my first attempt didn't seem to help. The use of triangle geometry gives the chassis enough strenght to take a fall from around 50cm without any damage. Another way i used to reinforce the chassis is the use of longer m3 screws and mathcing nuts as they fit perfectly through 3L pins and stabilize them aswell as preventing the connection to get apart. Good thing is they don't rly damage the parts, as they work similiar to 3L bars inserted into pins, just better. As i said i wanted to test how well rc components match with bricks so the first thing was using a brushless motor. The size is almost the same as a 540 brushed one so it was easy to mount using some m3 screews and 2x 32184 parts, for now. An mod 1 pinion gear with 12 tooths provides the connection to the drivetrain. As the motor got quite a punch and high rpms i decided to only use metal gears on carbon axles seated in ball bearings. Additionally i lubed them with some lithium grease. Currently the total gear reduction is 1:10 including the diff. That gives me around 2500rpms on the wheels with a fully charged lipo and plenty of torque. First i used 9L springs but in the first freefall test one of them broke, so i thought why not use rc dampers ? And 1:10 scale ones fit quite well. Their upper holes fit the pin diameter and the lower balljoint connection got a 3mm hole in them. Some screwing later they worked like a charm. Might even switch over to only use such shock absorbers as they can be tuned better. So far that's all, if one got questions, just ask, if one got suggestions, pls let me hear them.
  9. This was my first concept for a series of 4-person SxS vehicles but it came out to 8 wide, which seems excessive. So I am going to try a few techniques that were suggested by my lug for narrowing it down. SxS Offroad vehicle by Benjamin Sarles, on Flickr
  10. So I’ve always flip-flopped between sci-fi and fantasy themes. After spending several years firmly building spaceships I’ve decided to give a castle and medieval village build a go. My style is always with play in mind and some leeway towards historical accuracy. This is very much a work in progress. My aim is to make something sort of modular, not just to rearrange but to make it easier to move to allow my kids to play with it. I have another experimental build I tried, a half timbered house in the black and white style that I want to try and incorporate. Thoughts and comments very welcome! So you can see the overall plan, a quadrangular castle with a central keep, able to be closed up and opened. All off the corner towers and wall sections are connected with pins. Gate section. I intend to add a drawbridge style gate to the front. With chains if possible. Apart from some small variations in the colours, all four corners are the same. The two side walls again are quite similar. The SNOT bricks I plan to use for some kind of climbing foliage. I also plan on making small sub builds to connect to the inside of the walls; a forge and smithy, a pig pen, a small half timbered lodge, a storage pile etc. Something to give it some life. The longer of the two rear wall halves has the bridge to the keep. And the keep itself. I plan on another floor, which may have some half timbered extensions, and a roof top access. Interior-wise, the bottom floor has the dungeon and cellar. The middle will have a small hall and for the top I think a bed chamber makes sense. I want to add details to this section like torches on the walls, trophies, other decorations. I’ll add more pictures of the half timbered house I’ve started, as well as other sun builds and progress pictures as I go, as well as the figs I think will inhabit here. I welcome feedback and suggestions for other details and sub builds. Thank you for taking the time to go through this.
  11. Hi everyone! I want to create an off-road vehicle with these functionalities: - Speed around 13-16km/h - Positive caster angle - Good steering radius - Covering bottom of the car - Vehicle must be as versatile as possible (on-road, off-road, climbing capability) - that is why it is called Frontliner - No melting/damaged axles(or other parts) or at least minimal wear - this is with usage of brushless motor A2212 1000kv - Weight around 1,2 kg - Big wheels 100-110 mm (provide additional ground clearance) - Two-speed gearbox (optional functionality, may be implemented in the future) - Total gear reduction set to approximately 12:1 (including differentials reductions, etc. This still provides good speed of the model with usage of brushless motor) - Pendular suspension (optional functionality, currently implemented and it's very useful) What I will be using (non-lego): - RC setup (DumboRC X6FG - provides gyro stabilization) - Geek-servo motors (those works simply as servo-motor, but with 6 channels of the receiver I might use additional geek-servo motor as switch for gearbox) - A2212 1000kv brushless motor (I was previously using different BL motor, but this one is 14-pole, which means it has shorten rotating angle per-pole and is more precise in working with the throttle than 2838 3200/4500kv BL motor) - Metal universal joints (those are simply more robust than Lego ones) - Lucas oil white lithium grease (used to lubricate gears and axle holes) - 35A ESC - 3s li-po battery This is the first time I am seriously using Bricklink Studio to create a MOC. I had few attempts before, but this time I really pushed myself to at least design front and rear axle in it. Front axle: I used Geek-servo motor to steer the model (the front red weird stack of liftarms is actually it, dimensions 3x3x5). It also features planetary hubs, reinforced steering joints and planetary hubs. Rear axle (heavily insipired on @gyenesvi 42129 C model): We can see here the new differential (knock of part for now. I am soon gonna buy 42157 set to replace it with original Lego one). The yellow UV joint symbolizes metal version of it. Middle section: The yellow stack of gears symbolizes A2212 brushless motor. Between two 5x7 frames I hold battery and on top of that all RC components. This provides placement of all RC components in relatively small place. A2212 motor can rotate around 11100 RPMs at max throttle, then it is gear down 20:28 (differential gear). The differential distributes the power between the front and rear axles, which in my opinion creates less axle load than with just regular 28-tooth double-bevel gears. After joining above components into one setup I received the first prototype: I bought third-party wheels just out of curiosity and I have found that they weight slightly less than Lego ones, with pretty much same radius - 103mm. The body is just something I come up with in one day, I do not worry about that part for now as it is just prototype. At first I wanted to use 23801 steering hubs, but after few test runs with above model they simply couldn't stand the pressure. Other than that, the small steering joints were popping out from wheel hubs during steering on bumpy road. So that left me with only two solutions. Either I will use old portal hubs or new planetary ones. The first ones are more suited for big trucks, at least for me. So the choice was to go with the second option. (We need to wait for the Lego Audi set 42160, hope it will have good steering hubs, that support CV ball joints and are without planetary reduction) With that setup I was afraid that main shaft will have too much speed (around 7900 rpm at max throttle) and axles will start to melt. I was surprised when I took apart the model after hard run, because parts were in perfect shape! Those positive results are I believe because of light weight and short driveshaft. I am far from over with this model, that is why I submitted this topic. There is still room for improvement in those areas (at least :D): - Steering radius is simply poor. I thought that If I will put servo on the front and steering rack as close to the center of front axle it will solve the problem, but appareantly no. If you guys have ideas how to solve that or know any good front axle solutions I will be more than happy. - I need to cover bottom of the car. Shouldn't be problematic, but needs to be pointed out. - Body will be totally new. With 42157 set going soon into my arms and 42136, 42149 already in my hands I will be going with one main color and I believe you know which one I am aiming at. :) - Two-speed gearbox, but It will probably change overhaul look of middle section - Extending rear section. This is tricky one, current solution do not put much stress on axles, but with longer rear driveshaft it would give more "Trophy truck" vibes into it (and I love that :D). Other than stress on axles, this modification will actually shorten steering radius even more, so I am really thinking about implementing it. That's it. If you survived this wall of text I am more than happy. Here is GALLERY for you. Do not hesitate to write under this topic as I am open to suggestions and questions about this MOC.
  12. Following the success of my New Flyer XD60 model, I decided to take the existing design and remake it into an XD40 in Metropolitan Transportation Authority (MTA) livery. I am doing the 2015 model since newer ones have the new blue livery which will be much harder to build in LEGO due to the availability of dark blue pieces. The design uses my previous XD60 model as a base, but this model is more than simply my XD60 model cut down by 20 scaled feet. The chassis is redesigned from scratch, with the front and rear axles at a half-stud offset to allow for smaller and thus more realistically sized wheel arches. The body panels are also attached to the chassis using white Technic bricks with axle hole connected to a white Technic piece with axle, allowing for a seamless finish with no visible pins. A number of details have been polished up since my XD60 model, but perhaps the biggest difference is that the livery won't be sticker-dependent on this model. The simple blue stripe livery means I can easily model it with LEGO pieces, and stickers will only be used for the bus numbers/lettering. I've only modeled it in Stud.io so far, but I largely know what to expect since my XD60 model so the actually building process should be pretty straightforward once the model is finished in Stud.io. Photos:
  13. Hello guys, some days ago I've started new moc for the contest. I decided to build the police side cause it's more stylish for me and I have more details in white/black. The photo below is for inspiration, not exact prototype To begin with, I decided to make a floor then bodywork and more structure more bodywork + B-pillars and more... then I have started to build the engines then added rear lights
  14. With the gearbox-controlled mechanisms on my MCI D4500CT model proving to be impractical, I did not want to just abandon the gearbox design. Because of this, I decided to incorporate it into a different vehicle. I decided that a boom truck like the following would be god for a four-output distribution gearbox: I have not seen many boom trucks in this style done in LEGO Technic. I've seen plenty of mobile cranes, knuckle boom cranes, etc, but I figured this would make for a unique build, especially as I see plenty of these here in the US. The turntable for the crane is also mounted higher up (at the same height as the roof of the cab), so that'll provide more space for mechanisms. As of right now, the chassis consists of essentially everything to the rear of the wheelchair ramp module on my MCI D4500CT model. A difference is that both rear axles are driven, as opposed to one driven axle and one tag axle. The gearbox outputs will control the outriggers, boom rotation, boom elevation, and either boom extension or winch. There can only be two functions routed through a turntable in order to allow for unlimited rotation, so one of the boom functions will have to be manual. Because the suspension design is identical to that of my MCI D4500CT model, this model will also serve as a test bed for the drivetrain and suspension on my MCI D4500CT model. If everything works well here, I can be pretty confident using this suspension design. Let me know if you have any suggestions for me! Photos:
  15. I've always been impressed by crusader castles. They are massive and they have a unique look due to the merging of European and Oriental architecture. The most famous example is of course Krak des Chevaliers, but I didn't find an angle to turn it into Lego without blowing it up to 10,000+ pieces. Instead, I took inspiration from the Fortress of the Knights Templar in Acre. I still had to shrink it a bit in order to not have it grow out of control, but I feel like I found a good compromise. I wanted it to fit onto two 32x32 baseplates which I just about managed to do. I'm close to finishing the model and I'm currently sitting at 4644 parts. I'm still looking to improve some details, the cobblestone in front of the castle is for example still very primitive and I might add more of a slope to the ground outside. Then there are still some gaps that I might be able to close better. Obviously, it's not minifig scale, that would have required a model that's at least three times as large. Also, it's not modular. While it would be easy to have removable elements, it would be difficult to build any interior at the scale I'm working at. So I saved pieces by having the caste be completely hollow on the inside. Anyway, here are some pictures of where I'm currently at.
  16. WIP - I have installed a platform and layout in my Modular Town to include the new Eiffel Tower. I built some trees and a monorail station for the 6399 Airport Monorail and added steps from the street level to reach the platform of the Eiffel Tower. I also plan to remove the micro-sized lamp posts and some of the miniature foliage. I think this will help with make the minifigures seem more comfortable in this space, so they don't feel like Gulliver in Lilliput. I also plan to shorten the TV/Media antenna, so that I can fit the Eiffel Tower on a table and in a room with a low basement ceiling. Also, there is a Carousel very close to the real Eiffel Tower, so I plan to install the small Carousel from Winter Village Market (10235) near the Eiffel Tower display. This will balance out the presence of the Airport Monorail station. I would love to hear more about this subject: -How do you plan to display the new Eiffel Tower (10307)? -Will it be part of your LEGO Town or Modular Display? -How do you plan to deal with the micro-sized lamp posts? -Will you make modifications to lower the overall height, so that it will fit inside your house? -What buildings do you plan to display nearby, if any? By Ogelsbob, aka Legodt Check out my WIP on Flickr:
  17. Henchmen4Hire

    The lack of LEGO Supervans is outrageous

    ...so here's a half-finished one! ...hey, it's more than there were before, I call that a win. I used my usual inelegant method of throwing bricks at the wall and seeing what shapes work. The main thing I'm not happy with is the nose, I think it needs to be shorter but not sure what I can remove. Also not thrilled about how gappy it looks. I am happy with how I managed to add the little blue Ford logo in front though. I really don't want to change that. Also happy with the mosaic-like build on the roof. Suggestions welcome! Also, does anyone have pictures of this van's electric motors? I saw one picture but it doesn't show exactly how long they are or much details at all. (This is Ford's all-electric Supervan 4) Supervan 4 WIP by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr Supervan 4 WIP by Henchmen4Hire, on Flickr
  18. Last year, I built a MOC of the NJ Transit New Flyer XD60 Articulated Bus. That model was a huge success, so back in August I started working on another bus model: the NJ Transit 2016-2022 MCI D4500CT Commuter Coach. I anticipate this model having a lot more functionality than my XD60 model. There will be 6 motorized functions total, 4 of which are controlled via a 4-output distribution gearbox. The model will use Control+ electronics, with a single hub powering 4 motors (1 C+ XL for drive and 3 C+ L for steering, gearbox functions and gearbox switching). The 4 motorized functions controlled via the gearbox will be opening/closing the passenger door, extending/retracting the wheelchair lift, raising/lowering the wheelchair lift, and opening/closing the wheelchair door. The model will also feature suspension on all axles. I believe the real MCI D4500CT have independent front and tag axles and a solid driven axle (not 100% sure), but a such a setup might be too complicated so I went with a live axle suspension on all axles. I also plan to include a model of the Cummins X12 engine with mini pistons, which can be removed from the chassis as the pistons won't be visible when the engine model is inside the bus. Only the 2020-2022 (plus a handful of 2019) models have the Cummins X12 engine (previous years had the Cummins ISX12 engine), so my model will be of a 2020 or newer unit, most likely 2021 as the 2021 order was by far the largest. I started designing the model in Stud.io shortly after BrickFair VA back in August, focusing primarily on the chassis. The biggest challenge was making sure the wheelchair lift can fully extend/retract from the chassis and not interfere with any other mechanisms. The wheelchair lift's transverse range of motion takes up almost the entire width of the bus, so it was difficult making sure I can squeeze all the functionality in there without compromising on looks. Making sure I had the space to fit everything was also a challenge, as the distribution gearbox and Control+ hub both take up a lot of space. I have a preliminary version of the chassis modeled in Stud.io, and have begun building the physical model. The chassis is a very dense build, with plenty of mechanisms running through it. I also have the "stainless steel" side panels (all metallic silver - definitely won't be cheap) and seats in place in the Stud.io model. The Stud.io model is already over 4000 pieces, so I think this model will easily surpass the part count of my XD60 model. Just like my XD60 model, because I am modeling it in Stud.io, I plan to publish instructions for this MOC when it's finished. I've included some photos of the physical model as of right now (I mostly just have the gearbox section done), and some screenshots of the Stud.io model showing its progress since August. Photos:
  19. Some attempt at making a spooky train for this Halloween in Stud.io Open to ideas and suggestion
  20. Hello guys, today i present to you my lego winter ski resort Layout. it consists of a working ski lift, lit up houses and a shuttle train with automatic reversing (details in the train tech subforum soon). everything is still very much work in progress. overview of part of the layout. i dont have that much space to work with so i only had space for a non loop track. the ski lift is fully working and has a counterweight in the top. the bottom station is the drive station. the parts lit up are the two buildings, the street light and the liftshacks and the lifts motor room. one end of the layout.there is a platform in the works for the train. the reversing switch is similar to a magnetic reed switch. hope you like it so far!
  21. Just playing around with a few ideas for a Treebeard moc. Thinking if I can get him done I might put it on Lego Ideas as a "UCS" version. He's not really based on the movies, more my interpretation of him from the books. Except for his moustache, he's surprisingly sturdy, clips and bars hold everything in place pretty well. At the moment I'm not sure about his eyes - they're pearl gold but I think they need to be brighter... or maybe I've overdone his eyebrows. Here's a slightly earlier version... Part of me prefers them slightly simpler. Thoughts and suggestions welcome!
  22. Hi, everyone, I'm happy to share with you a project of mine that i've i've been working on and off for quite some time now. I've been improving individual modules repeatedly to improve performance. I am now fully satisfied with it functionality-wise. Some info about the model: The model is driven by 4 motors in total: 2 PF XL motors driving X and Y-movement Each motor is triggered by a Power Functions polarity switch. Both polarity switches are linked to the joystick in the middle. 1 PF L Motor - Chain Lower/Raise + Pneumatic pump 1 PF Servo Motor - Pneumatic Valve Both of these motors are connected to a third polarity switch, which is directly linked to the black lever on the right. The aim was to control both Claw Open/Close and Raise/Lower at the same time. I was trying to have both functions driven by a single motor, but it never worked reliably, so i decided to switch to a two-motor approach. Personal goals for this project: I wanted to have a clean look as much as possible; All motors except the Servo Motor are located in the base (black part) in the legs of the stand. This means that motion of the motors is transmitted through axles running the full height of the model, and then through series of 32m cross axles (the longest ones available) The 32m axles define the moving range of the claw, since the mechanism is "threaded" on those axles as they need to be continuous. Future plans: Change the color of the exterior to yellow. The control panel needs to be finished aesthetically. Comments & Feedback are welcome!
  23. A new project I started working on. It'll be a model of a classic dump truck, with a pickup truck style body and two axles. It'll be something similar to the following: https://www.thedrive.com/news/33102/ive-already-been-humbled-by-my-55-year-old-ford-dump-truck So far I've only done some preliminary Stud.io modeling, but I already have a general idea for the cab. The model will feature a lime green cab with a gray or black dump bed, two axles with pendular suspension, and BuWizz (not for speed, but to save space as the battery/controller are all in one unit), a fake engine with mini cylinders under the opening hood, and lights. I'll either use the tires from the 42122 Jeep or the the tire/rim combination from the 10279 VW Camper Van and 10290 Pickup Truck. I've wanted to make a lime MOC for a while now (haven't made one since my CLAAS Challenger 95E MOC from 2018). I've expanded my collection of lime pieces a bit after getting the 42138 Mustang set at BrickFair this year, so I decided to make at least the cab for this model in lime. I'm definitely planning to further expand my lime collection in the future, especially with pieces from the 42115 Lamborghini Sian set. Photos:
  24. The fearsome First Order strikes again! This model occupies over two square feet of your average usable coffee table space at just under (an estimated) 2000 pieces. This behemoth took over two months to design - but I'm not done yet. Before the Christmas season, I hope to have instructions completed. This model is based on the First Order Resurgent-class Star Destroyer's bridge. The original model was a measly 8x12 inches: And used only around 700 pieces. The most difficult part of this stage was creating the curved portion of the front section. This took many iterations to get right. When I had time, I would plan the wings of the bridge. The wings use around 300 pieces for the left-wing (looking from the back) and 350 pieces for the right-wing. Finally, we get to the back extension. This alone uses around 650 pieces and expands the length of the model by 25%. I knew that this would be the last section for one crucial reason: I was running out of space at this point. I wanted to focus more on figure placement for this part, so I left it mainly open while emphasizing the diorama aesthetic. It took a while but I was able to obtain all of the black bricks I needed for the back of the bridge. I think it turned out well. @Monkeyulize, if I may ask for your help designing a UCS sticker for this model, here's that question. The 1x2 technic brick is designed to be used to anchor a figure stand (coming soon) - I know it's there, don't worry. At last, the finished product. A piece fell off during transport but I found it and it's back on. I'm very pleased with this but know it can be improved. If you have any questions or critiques, please don't hesitate to post. I have but one request: stay civil. I will update this post with more design changes and processes. The Flickr album link can be found here: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjzSuaU
  25. Part of what got me into LEGO Technic years ago was an interest in designing a MOC of Lamborghini's original Aventador, the LP700-4. After a lot of procrastination, I've finally started on it. I'm not 100% happy with the chassis and I put compromises in so that I could test the fit and scale of various components. This will be a 1:10 scale model and it's my intention to implement a modified version of the gearbox from the Pimp my Lamborghini Project (https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-46782/jb70/42115-pimp-up-my-lamborghini/#details). I also intend on implementing some form of pushrod suspension for the front + back wheels and the original air brake system. There are a lot of things I like about the current gearbox, but there are significant space limitations I need to take into account. The gearbox may need to be redesigned but right now it fits nicely in the chassis. I'm currently having a challenge implementing the DNR and gear shifters in the small space. I'm very happy with the rear suspension as it is compact, to-scale, and captures a lot of the aspects of the Aventador's pushrod-style suspension. I've designed it to have more travel than a supercar normally would because I prefer it that way for Technic models. The front suspension is a mess of compromises to keep height down since at this scale I have 1 or 2 studs more at most before I hit the hood. Here there are many more challenges before I'd consider it done. I haven't found a 100% perfect solution yet, but I have managed to maintain my height limit by expanding laterally. I'm having trouble designing a steering rack with a good geometry, but the current version is adequate for now. The mechanism is very similar to the rear suspension, only it has been flattened and widened to accommodate steering and front wheel drive. I might be tempted to raise the height by a stud, but I'd have to begin on front fenders to see what the height limit will be. Steering is wonky but adequate for now.