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Found 313 results

  1. I had not built something mine since a long time and I started again with hard things. These are tatra axles with ackerman steering and perfect geometry, I achieved this because the two drive axles do not match the steering parts but the price I have to pay is unestable wheels and having to put the transmission up. I always had used only one drive axle but these wheels allow me more distance between them so I am trying. The red gears are for the transmission, it has rubber suspensions but it is only a tatra WIP so everything can change and I already have seen things to improve. The rear axles are very easy to do so I let them for the end. My others Tatras was smallers but the steering system was similar so being bigger this one I think it will work too or not here it is the fun .
  2. Hello, I have almost finished recreation of this set and I have some photos in the process of creating, so this is a small WIP
  3. Hey guys, I'm starting a smaller project here with the aim of maximum playability. Currently I'm waiting for a huge Pick-A-Brick order to arrive for my New Flyer XD60 project, so I've decided to do a small project in the meantime, especially since I haven't published anything since January. This will be a small and simple ripsaw model equipped with a two-missile turret, using new missile elements from the Robot Inventor set. The model will probably be modular, with the body and chassis largely built modularly and connected together when finished. Currently I have the turret and some of the body built. The turret can also raise and lower, but unfortunately cannot rotate as the BuWizz unit only has 4 ports (and two will be taken by the drive motors). As for the drive motors, I plan to use 4 L motors with one connected to each sprocket, although I might also go with one RC motor per track. Overall, I see this model as an upgrade from my Lime Tracker of 2017, as this one will be driven by the more powerful L motor and feature BuWizz. I think this will be a fun little MOC to drive around. It's nice to build something else after months of work on a single project, and it'll be a great way to pass the time as I wait for parts to arrive for that project. Photos:
  4. This ship was designed to replace my original micro scale ocean liner from 2011. It's not intended to represent any real liner per say, though I was inspired a tiny bit by the Queen Mary (located out in Long Beach, CA) and a lot inspired by the Olympic / Titanic / Britannic sister-ships that were sadly scrapped / sunk by iceberg / mined in WW1. Here we see the RMS Allemann at sail at night in the mid-Atlantic sometime in the late 1920's. (this LDD picture was edited to give it a night-time feel. If only the portholes glowed!) The font of the ship (also called the "bow".) features three printed 1 x 6 tiles should spell out the name ALLEMANN on the left and right sides, and along with the stern. The light gray "hatches" at the fore and aft sections of the ship are for loading cargo into the various holds. Statistics: Ship Name: RMS Allemann Ship Type: "Gigantic" Class passenger Liner Owner: Red Star Line Ship Built: 1919 – 1921 Capacity: 400 Crew, 270 First class, 630 Second class, 1,000 Third class Lifeboats: 20 regular boats / 4 collapsible boats with 80 people per boat each (1,920 people total capacity) Builder: Strong & Steele Shipbuilders of London Propulsion: 24 Boilers, 2 turbines, 4 steel propellers Top Speed: 30 Knots Fuel: Diesel (originally Oil) The rear of the ship. (also called the "stern".) The raised portion of the deck is for the docking bridge when the ship is backing into port. The ship features a modular approach to it's construction, allowing for separation of bow and stern for storage ease... and in case I want to build a wrecked version in the future, I just disconnect the four Technic pins to remove the desired section from the rest of the vessel. Also, I thought about Gateway LUG holiday displays, which usually include light-up models in some form, usually modular buildings. These potential lights are now addable via the open bottom of the ship for a neat effect through the portholes. The pennant flag of the Red Star Line as originally used on the RMS Allemann. The RMS Allemann was first proposed in 1914, but World War One prevented it's construction by Strong & Steele Shipbuilders to start until 1919. The ship was modified from it's original proposed engine design to burn oil, and was completed in February 1921. The ship could hold 1,900 people total, with 400 being Crew, with 270 being First class, 630 in Second class, and 1,000 being the steerage, or Third class. The ship sailed it's maiden voyage in July 1921 from Southampton to New York City. The ship was English-owned, and as such, was immune to the new American anti-alcohol laws of Prohibition. The ship took off-peak season sailings (informally known as Liquor Cruises) around the Atlantic, returning to the American port of origin within a couple days. The ship managed to hold a steady service record, and remained relatively full-up until the Great Depression really took hold in 1931. The ship's owners, the Red Star Line, managed to stay financially afloat long enough to get the ship through the worst of the Depression, until the ship was requested by the English Navy as a troop ship in late 1939 for use in World War Two. The Allemann's fancy woodwork was put in storage and the ship was turned into a troop ship relatively quickly. The ship was strafed several times by enemy aircraft during the war, and narrowly missed being torpedoed in 1943, but it survived the war not too much worse for wear. When it was handed back over to Red Star Line, it was given a complete overhaul mechanically and electrically. The whole ship was rewired, and the oil burning engines converted to diesel. The Acadia's woodwork was painstakingly restored to it's original grandeur, and she was ready for for sailing by 1948, almost a year after being handed back to it's original owners. In the early '50's the ship began sailing luxury cruises to the Mediterranean from England and the United States, in addition to it's usual scheduled Atlantic crossings, and had it's third class re-designated as Tourist class. This was because the decline of the Atlantic immigrant traffic pattern was nearly complete. The ship began showing it's age by the late 1960's, when it's original glass dome began to leak badly. A handful of cracks in the reinforced glass caused the ship to be dry-docked, but before it could be fixed the huge dome collapsed in on itself, causing the grand staircase to be heavily damaged. Luckily, the accident happened in the middle of the night, and no one was on board at the time to get hurt by all that broken glass. The ships' dome was replaced, but only because the ship's owners knew of the ship's heritage and couldn't bear to see the old girl scrapped. (Not to mention it would have cost more to scrap the ship than fix the dome) By 1975, she was last four-stack ship in existence, and the owners were planning the grand lady's 55th Birthday for the next year. The Allemann celebrated July 1st, 1976 as her fifty-fifth birthday, and as part of the celebrations she was given to a preservation group dedicated to keeping the ship sailing as an "ambassador of history", as a peek into the way things were and how the men and women visiting and working on the Allemann went about their lives through each period of this ships stoic history. Many former passengers and crew detailed their experiences on the ship in writing or on film for the beginning of what later became known as The Allemann Living History Museum. Today, the ship features a feature-length film that chronicles the story of the ship and it's many passengers and crew through out the ships commercial and wartime lives. The film is shown in the Second Class movie theater, built into the ship in 1947 after World War Two, flowing seamlessly into the 1920's flavor of the ship. The ship still sails, making stops in New York and London (substituted for Southampton) at least twice a year. NOTES: The bow is either a bit too long or the stern too short, but I can't seem to fix that correctly to be "in scale". In fact, it's pretty much assured there is NO scale used with this ship, as I just built what looked good to me. The model will have to be bought sometime in Autumn of this year, as even though it has most of the parts from the 2011 ship inside it, (these have been removed the from the parts list to save money) it still will cost almost (US) $200 to purchase the remaining needed parts to have it done by the Christmas-time show later this year. Any thoughts, comments, suggestions, or complaints on this ship?
  5. Below we see a French sailing ship called "Bluejay Way", which operates out of the Caribbean hunting for pirates on the authority of French King Louis the ??th. (Captain Du Pont has been out of touch with France for so long, he's forgotten which numbered king blessed the voyage and which one sits on the throne currently.) Who knows, and who cares: there are pirates to hunt! Viva La France! Ok, so I took set 4184 (The Black Pearl) and gave it sails inspired by set 31109 (Creator Pirate Ship) I then wanted to give it a more bluecoat flair, but the 2015 torsos and flag are VERY expensive and to hard to find in quantity, so the Bluecoats became French, and the torsos... well, I'm not revealing that bit yet! The ship has been stretched out to have another row of cannons, (bringing the total up to 8) and raising the captain's cabin up a couple bricks. The rear of the ship, up near the lanterns should feature the name "Bluejay Way" in printed 1 x 1 tiles. Also missing are the two 1 x 2 rounded edge plates for the moving rudder, and the 13 golden window pane parts. The access to the cannons' area consists of the removable deck below the smaller boat. Also of note, the last mast can be taken out to get to the captain's cabin below. Led by the brilliant Captain Gerald Du Pont, the men of the Bluejay Way are out to hunt down pirates and bring them to justice. Side note: Captain Du Pont lost his right leg to the green-coated Captain of the English pirate ship "The Yago", whom Gerald especially wants hunted down and captured by any means necessary! Here is all the stuff together.... well, almost all of it. See, I thought about adding the Creator set 31120 (Medieval Castle) and turning it into a Caribbean fortress with the "Tower' B Model turned into a lighthouse, while the "Market" C model will just be recreated in LDD as just the wall... no buildings other that that, as I think it will be cheaper than buying another copy of the $100 (US) set. Just to prove how dedicated I am to getting the Bluejay Way pirate hunter built, here is a shot of the parts collected thus far. Oh, and if you figured out Bluejay Way is a reference to the Beatles song of the same name, (in name only) you get a cookie! Comments, questions, suggestions, and comments always welcome!
  6. So I have (slowly) begun working on a castle, the Castle of Syndrifel. I started on the great hall and kitchen, because let's be honest, even minifigures get hungry. After building the great hall, I began to realize just how big this thing will be. I'm planning on building it in modular secutions due to the real estate it will take up. Do the colors look ok? Too much dark grey? Etc. The first two photos are the great hall and kitchen, sans furniture for the most part. A minifigure is there for scale. The white arch there is also just a place holder, as are the transparent bricks behind the royal table. Some furniture I've been working on. The far left might be counters, but I'm really not fans. The middle tan and black will probably be shelves and tables in the kitchen. Far right are 99% sure to be benches. Should I start building from the ground up? Right now I have ane idea of the walls. Ignore the white bricks, they're place holders, as are the full on dark gray. I'm thinking 12x12 for the towers, aside from the main gaates which might be 12x14 or something to give a bit more room. The center 4x4 will be filled in as well. I have six of those built, which are the amount of towers I plan on building.
  7. Hi all, I just stated a new project, and I decided to create a WIP topic for it so I can show my building process on it. It is for now a side project, I started it early since I got stuck a bit on my main project (which can be found here for those interested), so progress probably won't be quick at first. So about the car. It is going to be a 1:10 scale racecar. I'm not aiming for a certain car, I want to design my own. This gives me a lot of freedom in functions and features I want to add. I looked at the Greek mythology to find a name, and settled on Orion. I am going for a different design style than my previous builds. In those builds I used a lot of panels and liftarms to close as many gaps as possible, for this one I want to go for a more 'technic' look. I also have a list of functions/ features I (might) want to add: Definitely want to add these: AWD (3 diffs) Sequential gearbox + engine (a simple 4 speed one to leave room for other functions) Spring-loaded scissor or butterfly doors Advanced suspension set-up & geometry Openable engine bay (probably with a lever in the car) DRS (or a similar system) Rigid monocoque And might add these: Modular bodywork Modular chassis Active aero (e.g. panels which move when steering) If you have other features you'd like me to (try to) add, please let me know. So far I have built the axles. The rear axle is pretty much done, the front axle needs a few refinements, but is mostly finished by now. Rear axle: Orion - Rear axle 1 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Functions/ features: Double wishbone Stiff, short travel pushrod suspension with a limiter Heave spring Anti-roll bar Differential Front axle: Orion - Front axle 1 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Functions/ features: Double wishbone Stiff suspension (springs are attached with levers) Heave spring Anti-roll bar Differential Positive caster angle Kingpin inclination Ackermann steering geometry At first I also added a negative camber angle, but it was a bit too exaggerated and lead to some problems, so I decided to not add it. This is it for now, hope you like it :D
  8. Hello everyone! Today I'd like to show you the model that I've been working on for more than two years, it's my first MOC in this scale that is actually close to being finished. It was rebuild from scratch dozen times and still requires bodywork. The MOC is LaFerrari in 1:8 scale: Origially I had a lot of ideas and great ambitions, but over time I realized that I just don't have enough skill to make everything I wanted. So current version has following features: independent suspension; 2 L motors for driving; Servo motor for steering; working steering wheel; 8 speed sequential gearbox driven by M motor; spacious interior with low seats positioning; powering with standard LEGO PF. Proportions: width - 29 studs; height - 15-16 studs; length - about 70 studs, don't know yet. Originally I wanted to use bigger wheels but then I stopped on 68.8. The thing is that front section of the car are too low so there won't be any place for arches with bigger wheels. Battery box is located in front of the car because everything behind seats is one huge gearbox. It just lays on its own weight and will be covered on the top with something black. This way you won't see most of gray and light gray parts through the bonnet. Distance between seats is only 3 studs and every seat is 7 studs wide. There's no free space between them - only a few hidden cables there. This is how it looks without seats: Top and bottom views: The whole core of the car is basically done. It's pretty sturdy and doesn't bend when you hold it. In current state it has about 1600 pieces. The most challenging part of the build at this point is a gearbox. It had to be very compact because car is so low. In this LDD file you can investigate all gears: https://bricksafe.com/files/ibessonov/wip-moc-laferrari-technic-2018---1/8 speed gearbox.lxf Here are some renders of gearbox without stepper. Green axles are input from motors. There are 3 clutches here and they give 8 unique combinations of their engagement. L motors are slowed down significantly. This is because they are not powerful enough to make this car fast. Here's a stepper mechanism that I used to move all 3 clutches: Green things should be connected with white rubber bands, they hold axles in fixed 90-degrees positions. There's a strong resemblance with 42056 Porshe's gearbox here, I know it. That model helped a lot with the inspiration. My plan is to finish bodywork but it's the hardest thing for me. This is the exact reason why I'm creating this topic - to get help/critique while I'm finishing the model. LaFerrari has quite complex shape and I should have chosen something more simple for my first MOC. But I already spent way too much time so I have to finally finish it. Leave your thoughts here, I'm very curious of what you might say. Thank you!
  9. Introduction : Sigrid's journal "We were called to a meeting with the other village leaders yesterday. Jarl Elisif wanted us all to know about the victory at the Enchanted Forest. Of course, the word had already spread, and everyone was already talking about how Jarl Thimolir's bear cavalry saved the day. After months of tensions, even the most ardent sceptics now seem to veer to the side of the Queen. And that's great news. Instead of worrying about a possible war, we can now hope for peace. Instead of focusing on arming and training our people, I can now step back and also plan for the long term. It's time to rebuild Horgaard." In order to assist my sigfig's efforts to rebuild her village, I'm going to build a mead hall. And given that this is the first time I'll build such a MOC, I expect a lot of thinking, a lot of trial and error, and a lot of time. During the months by the housewarming hallwarming party, here is the thread where I'll track the progress of the construction and all the thinking behind. History Chapter 1. What could it look like? Chapter 2. Of roofs and doors Chapter 3. Woodworking Chapter 4. Construction delays Current state
  10. Hi, I am building next MOC based on model which can be found in the game Snowrunner. I picked KHAN 39 Marshall - it is based on real world vehicle - UAZ 3151. I would like to ask for your advice with one of my biggest problem in mocing - creating a decent looking body. When you see the photos and think "It doesn't look like UAZ..." then YES - you are right and: I wish to focus on body and look (I don't want to discuss functions here, they are there and they are fine). As you can see, the main color is picked (some parts in proper colors are missing, but is not a problem when bricklink is around, the same goes for some missing obvious parts), but any smaller recolors are possible. The biggest problem I have is the front grill. It looks almost ok, but as the grill for Jeep or Land Rover, not the UAZ. I tried to recreate UAZ grill, but I failed miserably. As you can see, there is no much space for it and I am also very pleased with perfect connection of the front and the hood and I definitely will keep that. Important factor is also the fact, that body needs to be as one piece, which can be easily removed, so the body demands some rigidity. Also I plan to add front and rear lights, but at first I need to be sure that the body is right. So, could you help me a little to improve the look so it would be closer to UAZ body look? :)
  11. I'm curious - What stuff do you use in/for MOC-ing besides Lego? I feel it's a bit like fishing - you can do with just the bare minimum - a stick, a string and a bait, but a folding chair, a good fishing rod and a beer makes it a lot better as an experience. So, let's summarize a MOC builder's starter toolkit :) My toolkit for MOCs is the following: 0. Lego pieces - no way of skipping those 0. Organizers or big plastic trays to have the parts accessible and visible Scale model car/truck/tank/thing for referencing and proportions - I've used a VW camper van 1/32 toy for real-life measuring - saved me a lot of time. /optional/ Bunch of google images and youtube videos of the MOC's topic - to get a feel of the proportions and/or mechanisms inside. For C-models - always open tab with the set's inventory - helps fight over-committing pieces in non-essential places. PDF instructions of other MOCs or official Lego models if I need to borrow a mechanism or technique idea. Sariel's toolkit - http://tools.sariel.pl/ - very good tools, honestly. The scale tool and the thumbnail generator do wonders. I'm not that advanced in Technic building to use the gears tool yet. LDD/ Stud.io / LDcad / Mecabricks - if/when you go digital / or create instructions later/ Empty table, two A2 posters converted to a white backdrop, a tripod and my phone / cheap camera / for some glory shots to be shared later. 4x the time I think it should take... /Then add 2x time again for all the glory shots/videos of the mechanisms/* *Yes, time is a tool too ;) Environmentally - what helps you MOC? Separate desk? Wall of organizers? Any kind of music that helps you work better? Or podcasts? I've made my best MOCs during the night listening to Joe Rogan's podcasts. I don't feel sleepy if a podcast is running. Living on a boulevard makes day moc-ing a bit harder - night time's quietness makes me work better. I build on my work desk at home - a wireless keyboard does wonders for your space :) What software do you use? For digital building PDF editting Image editting Video editting For me it's Stud.io for digital building and PDF generation. The flex tool is terrible, but the other stuff in it has a flow. I've tried LDcad but I'm lost there. LDD is clunky too, maybe they need more time to get the results I want. Mecabricks is enigma to me - I mainly use it on work pcs as a 3D model viewer. For images and video - the embedded Photos app + Paint 3D /Windows 10/ are sufficient. You can crop and adjust lighting. Not great, not terrible. The video editor is very basic but to the point. Paint 3D is actually quite capable while still being not very rich in functionality. You can copy paste the below text for your entries in this topic if you wish :) Thank you for your time
  12. This ship was heavily inspired by set 4195 (Queen Anne's Revenge) for the ship itself and set 31109 for the brick-built sails + pirate flag. The vessel is named the "Hell Bent", and is crewed by sailors-turned-demons, led by Captain Victor "Jawbone" Blucher. It will be built after the "Silver Crab" pirate ship is done. The vessel has eight cannons ready to fire at a moments notice. The rear of the ship has the nameplate on the stern, right below the custom brick-built pirate flag. The model has a removable steering area for access to the captain's quarters, which has a desk and chair with two wall lanterns nearby. Captain Victor (the figure on the right side) lost his lower jaw after a pistol shot at a vision of The Man Upstairs rebounded unto him, and was turned into a demon (along with his crew) by said entity for his crime against nature. He also gained an painful iron jawbone as an additional punishment, and so he could communicate with his crew verbally. The Hell Bent and it's crew have roamed the 7 seas for about 28 years now, only allowed to enter a port once every seven years for a week. Just like the legendary storm-tossed Flying Dutchman and it's infernal crew, this ship is a bad omen at sea for merchants, but strangely is considered a good one for pirates, since it was a pirate ship to begin with. Usually, if the ship is sighted by a merchant ship, the crewmate who saw it will then die and join the demon-crew's ranks, but for pirates, it is allowed to get closer to exchange news of the world via bags of mail / news clippings / etc. sent over in waterproofed bags. (In reality, I'm going to use Nexo Knights lava soldiers' heads and torsos for the crew and captain.) If you have any thoughts, questions, complaints, suggestions, or comments, please post them below!
  13. Hello folks! I am building a Chevy Monte Carlo Nascar. This is my first technic MOC on which I will be building bodywork based on a real car. The car will be using: two XL motors, one M motor, two receivers, one LIPO battery box. It will have no gearbox, and it will be based off this picture. Thank you @Sariel for having your model scaler available to the world. Cheers Let's Build
  14. snowvictim

    [MOC] St. Alexander's Church

    Greetings! I have recently took upon myself the task of recreating one of my favourite buildings lost to the ravages of war: St. Alexander's Church in Warsaw, Poland. It's quite an ambitious project (over 20,000 bricks) that I intend to finish by October. Background information: The church was completed in 1825 and was built in the neoclassical style. In the 1890s, the Russians, who occupied Poland, decided to remodel the building architecturally and expand it considerably. The temple was practically intact following the German invasion of Poland in 1939, and was almost completely razed to the ground as part of the planned destruction of Warsaw in late 1944 (only one of the bell towers survived). After the war, the church was rebuilt, however in its original form, not the one after the 1890 alteration (probably due to a combination of insufficient funding and the opposition to the Church by the new communist regime). My aim was to rebuild the church as it stood between 1890 and 1944. Notes on the build: Dimensions: the building itself measures 132cm x 76cm x 54cm (the build is situated on a 2x4 grid of 48x48 baseplates) Many people may be annoyed by this, but I decided not to build the interior for two reasons; one is practical, the other is technical. As for practicality, I came up with an idea to insert some LED lighting into the church so that it can be illuminated, which should combine beautifully with the trans-coloured bricks that make up the stained glass windows. Inserting a power source, wiring, lights, controlled, etc. may have been problematic with a completed interior. Regarding technicality, I conducted a lot of photographic research before designing the model in Studio. While pictures of the exterior are not difficult to come by (owing to the fact that the church was one of the architectural crown jewels of pre-war Warsaw), I had only found one of the interior, and the quality of it was insufficient to provide an appropriate representation of the interior. Although written accounts of the interior do exist, I wanted to stay true to the original. Granted, one cannot replicate everything in Lego (especially me, a mediocre builder at best), but I didn't want my imagination to taint the build. Photos of the actual church: (The church after being destroyed. Notice the one surviving bell tower. The bricks you can see in the foreground came from the church and were used to build other buildings for the returning population following their expulsion after the failure of the Warsaw Uprising). Renders: Note: the renders aren't complete, primarily because of technical limitations. I'm running an Intel i7 with a GTX 1080 and even that setup struggles sometimes. Also, the angles of the build make working in Studio annoying at times. Some elements that I wanted to put Studio considers as colliding with others (particularly when it comes to the dome), so I've decided to just do them in real life instead. These include the top of the dome, the roofing adjacent to the dome base, the statues on the roof, and some minor details here and there. The greatest challenge will be the walls of the dome; as you can see they're empty, and I may have to resort to non-Lego means. Building: More to follow! Most of the workpace is dictated by how fast the BrickLink orders arrive at my place.
  15. Hey guys, here's a new MOC I'm working on. This MOC will be an experiment in combining the new Mindstorms with Control+ to control 6 motors with a single hub. It will be powered and controlled by the new Mindstorms hub, with 4 angular motors for drive (1 per wheel) and Control+ motors for elevation and tilting. With the new Mindstorms having much better form factor than EV3, I anticipate it being much easier to use in my MOCs than EV3. The loader is inspired by the CASE SV340 skid-steer loader. However, some parts of that vehicle, especially the rounded section of the arms towards the rear, will be difficult to model with Lego pieces, so I won't model this after any specific skid-steer loader. So far, I have the chassis built. It's a compact chassis made of 4 angular motors sandwiched between two 11x15 frames. The wheels are driven through planetary hubs, giving it lots of torque. This gives me a good starting point to attach other elements, such as the arm mechanisms and the Mindstorms hub. This will definitely be an interesting build. When I learned that the new Mindstorms is cross-compatible with C+ thanks to both being in the Powered Up ecosystem, I knew I just had to make a MOC combining them. If all goes well, I'll definitely be experimenting more with the new Mindstorms in the future. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  16. Hello Everybody, I started since long with an ambitious MOC, a mobile port crane. I'll try to make it to a finished product, parts and motivation permiting. I'm not so good at inventing new models from scratch and design them well. but here goes... It will be sort of a combination between to models, one frome Liebherr and the other from Kone cranes. My model has 8 sets of 2 wheels, all of them are steered and 2 sets of wheels are driven by an XL-motor. The Steering mechanism is driven by an L-motor. The outriggers are also driven by 2 L-motors. In the above picture, the 4 centre bogies were driven, but I already changed the design, so only 2 are driven now, and the drive itself has been changed also. The centre outrigger mechanism and the outriggers are based on the design of IVAN MOCS concrete pump. Here two outriggers are completely finished, I'm waiting for spare parts to finish the other 2 outriggers. in this foto I already put the slewing arrangement based on the one from the 42082 RTC.
  17. I have 4 possible projects which is very unusual... and I do not know which one restart so I need your help, I will tell you some about them. 1 Broyt excavator, impressive machine with 6 functions but difficult part in the transmision to the last LAs, a big challenge, I could use 6 motors but it would not be my style. 2 Volvo front shovel, another recent discovery with 6 functions too, I could use the 8043 bucket. 3 Komatsu PC 5500, I chose this because it has the best proportion with the big LAs, I always wanted to do a better front shovel after my Caterpillar 6090 MOC, more playable, less pieces and the possibility of build a machine with two different arms, excavator or front shovel to can change between them, it would be a large project. 4 F40 competizione, without suspensions to can have a better bodywork, but just because it is a car is the one that attracts me the least, maybe without gearbox too to can have less pieces. I like a lot almost all of them and I do not know which one to choose, I always wanted to do a tracked loader but I do not find a original one that I likes enough, I like the concept but they are so ugly... I like too the underground machinery but I have already done enough wheel loaders and dumpers. Another problem would be that we have new useful parts and I hate build something that can be done better with parts I do not have yet... This is a part of my thoughts that sometimes are useful to scape from the reality.
  18. Some of you may remember my Azure Racer from a few years ago. It was a small simple buggy that was meant to be a leisurely build after my BrickFair VA projects of that summer. It had only one L motor for drive, but had decent speed. This model will be a sequel to that - it'll be larger (with Unimog tires), dark azure instead of medium azure, and powered by BuWizz and driven by 2 RC motors. In fact, this will be my first MOC to use BuWizz and RC motors - something I wanted to get for years and finally obtained two of them. The front axle will be a double wishbone independent suspension using shocks from the 9398 set. I haven't used them in years, and it's nice to bring them back again. The rear suspension will also be independent, but it'll be the RC motors themselves that are part of the suspension. Each motor will be connected to one wheel that'll be mounted on its own pivot point and shock absorber, essentially creating an independent suspension. I'm really looking forward to building this model. With the BuWizz on ludicrous or fast powering 2 RC motors driving a relatively lightweight model, I anticipate getting A LOT of speed out of this thing. Photo:
  19. Terrasher

    [WIP] UCS Jabba's Sail Barge

    Work In Progress Ever since I bought the Sail Barge (75020) in 2013, I fell in love with the ship. It quickly became my favorite set. Sadly, recently, I've been taking apart most of my non-UCS sets to make room for the bigger models and to have more pieces to MOC with. I had refrained from wrecking the Barge and the MTT from 2007 because they were my two favorite sets. Eventually, when I got into making car MOCs (Chevrolet Bel Air and Rolls Royce Silver Cloud II), I took both sets apart to make a brown Plymouth Special Deluxe but, after seeing I didn't have enough brown bricks to go through with the project, all the pieces just laid there. Now, while waiting for the UCS Millenium Falcon to come back in stock, I've been having the minifigure-scale fever. I've built a couple of rebel ships (X-Wing (MOD), Y-Wing (WIP), A-Wing (Bought the latest one)) and now, after seeing all he brown pieces I had in stock and all the cool minifigures I wanted to use for some iconic scene, I've tackled Jabba's Sail Barge - The Khetanna. Here it is with my Desert Skiff and the brand new parts that have just arrived: There's a full interior for the barge. Kitchen, droid torture room, "lobby", driver's cabin and, of course, the party room at the back. I'll post pics of the interior as well as more of the outside once I make some progress with the new parts.
  20. I'm doing something simple this time after building two complex MOCs. Given that I'm busy with college right now, this should be a pretty manageable project for me. It'll be a simple tracked loader model with subtractor drive. I've already got the subtractor mechanism built, and it'll likely be the rear sprockets that'll be driven. The propulsion motor is a C+ XL and the steering motor is a C+ L. The C+ hub will likely sit in the front of the chassis towards the bottom (assuming it's the rear sprockets that'll be driven) and bucket elevation/tipping will be a C+ XL and C+ L, respectively. As for the bodywork, I'm planning on making it bright light orange with the pieces from the 42099 set. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  21. Sooo it's been a while since i've posted here.. reason being that life happened Anyway also been a while since i've looked at my lego but recently i've gotten the itch to build a thing or two. Most of them are not complete and maybe never will be but I like building and it's a stress relief so why not? Pictures? Sure! Without many words. Just wanted to share them because in my opinion there are way to little tractors being built in lego form and even less tractor pullers. So here goes.. Ford County 754 Mini puller or 'mini rod' as i believe they call them in the USA.. Unlimited tractor puller with three turbine engines And last but not least, unlimited tractor puller with 16 cylinder radial engine WIP
  22. Greetings! It’s been forever since I last put up a post but I’ve finally gotten round to making some more ‘mechs! Rather than make a new topic for each one I’m going to keep adding more and more to this, and I’ve even remembered to take some work in progress pics as well which I will try and add as I go along as there’s always room for tips! And now, first up is the SPN-Ae “Egyptian” https://imgur.com/a/9jLXfTC A slight challenge but a very pleasing build over the course of several months (I get about 15-20 mins free build time most week days) and I’m very satisfied with the end result. I think the shaping is good, streamlined, and putting in the orange was a big step for me in deviating away from the more plain colours. A lot of all the new parts I have to build with have come from the recent City Space range and that’s largely where the colour scheme comes from, and I’ll often not use stickers if I’m buying sets purely to build with but I think they work well here and add something to the builds. I still need to fill a gap on the inside of each leg, just in front of the joint. I need either a single square stud or to change a piece on the inside to fill it. The other change I may make is to fit a ball joint on the two shoulder stud launchers to allow them to move a lot more. As always; thoughts, comments, constructive criticism. Like all my mech builds this one is also loosely based off of a dinosaur, any guesses as to which one? Bonus WIP pictures for it that I forgot to upload at the time: https://imgur.com/a/Jyz8gdJ
  23. Just made a MOC based on a real vehicle - the Kalmar forklift. Well, how about another one? This will be a model of the Bergmann C815s (formerly Bergmann 3012) in the swivel tip dumper configuration. It will be my first MOC to use Control+, with 4 motors to control drive, articulated steering, dump bed rotation and dumping. It will feature AWD with planetary hubs from the 42099 set, a sprung front axle (live axle), and will tentatively feature pneumatic dumping to reduce the amount of driveshafts for functions. https://www.bergmann-dumper.de/pdf_files/folder/folder-sammel-2018-eng_826_9.pdf https://www.maskinia.se/upload/products/documents/neu-2020-folder-c815s-h03-10452-11758-en-web-einzelseiten.pdf Note that the name of this vehicle was Bergmann 3012 prior to 2020. My model will be the current version of this vehicle. There's very limited space for electronics and mechanisms here - I already had to scratch the idea of including a 4-cylinder fake engine. I anticipate this model being packed to the brim with mechanisms - for instance, the steering motor (which will be a C+ L motor) will sit back to back with the drive motor, transferring drive through a driveshaft directly below them as to not interfere with the suspension's travel. The C+ hub will sit below the steering motor, directly in front of the front axle. I'm hoping this won't cause the suspension to sag or anything - there's literally nowhere else in the model I could feasibly put it. So far, I have the front axle and parts of the chassis in front of the articulation joint completed. It seems to be well reinforced at this point - thankfully the C+ motors have a lot of attachment points so I can see them supporting the chassis here pretty well. The articulated steering will be done by 2 mini LAs - this was quite a challenge for me to figure out, as they sit directly in front of the gears for the drivetrain. I had to make sure the mechanism is sturdy, can be geared easily, and not be too high as the body slopes downward right here. They feel a little wobbly, but a test with some beams representing the rear section of the chassis shows that there's little play in the mechanism. The LAs will be installed like a 'Y' (I find this to be the best angle for them), which isn't the most realistic as the real-life counterpart seems to have them pointing rather parallel to the chassis and are installed lower, but given the limited space in the chassis I have to make some compromises I guess. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  24. Hello All, Another new MOC using the XLAs, I'm giving the rotary drilling rig another go, My last attempt at it was not really succesfull and remained unfinished. So Here it is: the rotary drilling rig MKII Most parts come from the Liebherr excavator including all but one control+ motors, and it has 2 control+ battery boxes. The trackbase is borrowed from flybum's volvo excavator. Here are some WIP pics, any comments are always welcome Two XL-motors and 1 control+ receiver are situated in the trackbase 1 XL-motor is used for the normal LAs in the base frame 1 L-motor is used for swivel 1 L-motor is used for the winch and 1 L-motor situated in the frame is used to drive the XLAs to move the leader up and down For the paneling I'm recycling panels from the Liebherr excavator. Normally I'm going to install 2 extra motors with a conventional battery box and IR or sbrick receiver. Other pics will follow
  25. Hey guys, here's a new project I'm starting. It is a model of a Kalmar forklift. It will be controlled by SBrick, and it will feature drive, steering, pneumatically tilted mast and lifting fork. The wheels will be Unimog wheels (94.3x38 tires). https://www.kalmarusa.com/4ae438/globalassets/equipment/forklift-trucks/kalmar-forklifts-1852-ton-capacity/kalmar-dcg180-330-forklift-brochure-en-us.pdf So far I have the front axle and the rear portion of the chassis completed. The front axle is driven and is very compact - most of the gear reduction is done in the portal hubs so the drive motor is attached directly behind the frame holding the differential. As for the rear portion, it contains the steered rear axle. Note that the longitudinal beam supporting the chassis is only 3 studs wide directly below the rear axle - the steering lock is very large to ensure a minimal turning radius, and this avoids the wheels from rubbing the chassis when turning while also keeping the chassis sufficiently robust. I also have the compressor (driven by a PF L motor) and the SBrick installed. Note the vertical placement of the motors - I'm trying to make the model as compact as possible, and this avoids using too much longitudinal space. I was concerned that the servo motor might not have enough torque this way as it's driving the steering linkages directly rather than with rack and pinion (it will be limited to 45 degrees of rotation in the SBrick profile designer), but I've seen MOCs that use the servo like this and they work fine. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos: