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Found 772 results

  1. I built this station with set #7997 in mind. (Link to this set's Brickset listing: http://brickset.com/...1/Train-Station ) I got the original set in 2007, along with a double rail crossover for my Birthday. I wanted to make it a full building but didn't have the parts. By 2008, I had discovered Bricklink, but the station was in pieces by then and was not re-created until early 2012. The station was a stock set, while I searched for ideas. Eventually, I came across a build by fellow Eurobricks user named Lazarus that incorporated a modular basis, a full building (street & track-sides) & a appealing design. I saved a picture of it and made my own design based on his. I included really neat features, (such as the arched lattice windows made with a fence) but I went too far and made it impossible to transport to train shows and LUG meetings. The platforms were very flimsy, and during the recent move to my families new house, it shattered into small chunks. So, I went back to the drawing board, scrapping everything but the building itself. Here is the end result, which is strangely near where I started with set #7997. It has one platform, plentiful outside seating on the platform, and is still yellow-and-black. There are many changes from the set, (no stairs on the platform, for example.) but the heart and soul is still there. In this latest version, I relocated the clocks to the top of the tower roof so that the design was closer to the original model. I also combined / redid sections of the model, such as the building and trackside awning have become one large section instead of two smaller ones. I even swapped the town-name of this station and my Victorian station, making the one you see here "Barretts" while the other one became "Ironwood". Also, this side of the station is 5 tracks long, or 80 studs. Here is the street side of the station. Here we can see the interior of the station, with ticket machines,seating, and snack bar on the first floor, plus the train tracking / switching controls on the second floor. You can also see the modular breakdown of the model, which includes the following: -Station building (lower floor) -Station roof and Tower control room (upper floor) -Tower roof -left platform section -right platform section The original set, courtesy or Bricklink. LDD file here: http://www.mocpages.com/user_images/80135/1449078417m.lxf
  2. Hi all, Some of you might know me from this topic, in which I showed the progress made on a module for a group layout. As promised, and a little late, here are some pictures of the layout which was build by Aawsum, Alois, Moos, Thomassio, Wilbert and me. This were the plans for the entire layout: Layout_Final by Aawsum MOCs Lego, on Flickr After 1 day of setting up, the layout was as good as ready, there were some minor details, but they were solved in a couple of days. 20151020_210040 by Aawsum MOCs Lego, on Flickr Now just some pictures Legoworld Utrecht 2015 by Erwin, on Flickr Legoworld Utrecht 2015 by Erwin, on Flickr Legoworld Utrecht 2015 by Erwin, on Flickr Legoworld Utrecht 2015 by Erwin, on Flickr Legoworld Utrecht 2015 by Erwin, on Flickr Legoworld Utrecht 2015 by Erwin, on Flickr And a video made by Aawsum: LTC_Legoworld2015 by Aawsum MOCs Lego, on Flickr If you want to see more photo's from the layout, these albums should help: Aawsum, Alois, Me Questions, comments and critique are as always welcome. PS. If you have a link to some photo's you shot of the layout feel free to post it.
  3. zephyr1934

    MOC Pioneer Zephyr

    [ MOC gallery] I am proud to present my take on the small train that was the first modern streamliner. Built in 1934, numbered 9900 and originally simply called the Zephyr (the last name in passenger comfort). After its success it was quickly joined by many more Zephyr's and was soon renamed the Pioneer Zephyr. There are many great articles on this historic train, e.g., here (note the PDF schematics that were incredibly helpful); here; and here. The Zephyr was the first lightweight train set, the first (or one of the first?) diesel electric powered trains, and the first stainless steel train. It was small and light, consisting of a motorcar that was a combination engine and RPO, then a combined express/coach, and a coach observation car. The entire train was articulated, with shared trucks between each pair of cars. I sought to reproduce the as delivered version of the train set. Several substantial changes were made over the first few years of the train's long life, including the addition of a 4th car (or 3rd car if you consider the motorcar a locomotive) and a large Mars light on the front and rear of the train. As such, my model might differ in appearance from many photos of the train after the changes were made. The train has been restored and is on display at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago, IL, USA. Another three of these train sets were built for the Burlington route, and the nearly identical Flying Yankee for the B&M. But enough history for now, first a quick image of the train itself, Look at all of those round curves... The nose was a challenge- how to get the rounded and sloped front. The above photo shows my solution. I would have liked to have gotten a little more slope, maybe one plate where I'm currently using half plate steps, but that would have only worked if there were curved sloped bricks of just the right shape/size. I was pleased with how well I was able to capture the distinctive air vents above the cab (including the small gap between the two vents, with room for the headlight), and also how I was able to get the right topographical shape from the rectangular slope bricks for the transition from the front to the top curves. At the end of the engine compartment is an abrupt narrowing and slow drop in height (again at half plate tall steps) to the roof of the cars. The photo also shows the IR receiver not so eloquently hidden. Some of the other shots show a "cap" built over the receiver. That was for the show this past weekend (which I'll post more about after uploading photos), and at this show, 10 ft away from where my trains were running, there were four stations for kids to run lego city train sets, with IR controllers and all. The cap blocked most of the IR, but you could still operate the train from 2 ft away. With that success, I rebuilt it again this morning and put the IR receiver completely under the 1x3 curved slopes so that it is now completely hidden. Again, it will hear the IR receiver from 2 ft away. I'll post photos of that update soon, but that will send the entire folder back for Brick Shelf moderation and I don't want to do that right now. Below the car you can see the skirting on the powered truck and along the body. This feature of the prototype also made it easy to hide a black PF train motor while blending it in with the model (similarly on the trucks, using standard PF train wheels in black, but more on that in a moment). Also of note are the doors with a half plate recess, the brick built mail catch, and custom decals using fonts from RailFonts.com The above shot shows a side view of the motorcar. The stark light does not do the step down in the roof justice. It looks much better with overhead lighting (as seen in some of the other shots). The above thumbnails show how I did the connections between cars. As noted above, the skirting on the wheels covers plain black PF train wheel sets. I got the idea for the 4x4 curves for the diaphragms from Swoofty's SP cars. The configuration in the photos is designed to run on R88 or better curves. The lenght of the cars lead to too extreme swings on R44 curves and the outer corners will knock together. However, with a quick rebuild of the trucks to add one stud separation, she will run fine on R44 tracks. Here is the middle car. The doors were another challenge to get the half plate offset with the profile bricks, and then quick turn from studs up to studs sideways. All sorts of fast brickwork in the intervening 6 stud width of the train. Needless to say, my brain is still hurting a bit from all of the hoops to get the offsets working. Although none of the photos show it, the coach windows offer a clear view across the train. Here's a shot of the observation car. More half plate offset doors, skirting, etc. The rounded observation end was another challenge... ... I started with my basic design from the North Coast Limited. I made a few quick improvements- the NCL had 1 brick tall windows on the sides and so I had to make the observation windows either 2.5 plates tall or 5 plates tall. The Pioneer Zephyr has 5 plate tall windows to help emphasize the small size of the prototype, which then made the transition to the snotted windows on the curved section a lot easier. But I also faced a challenge. The NCL uses a curved winshield to transition from the 1x3 curved bricks of the roof to the curves of the rear of the train. I did not have enough height to fit that same piece on the Zephyr. So I wound up using a wedge plate design to again capture the topographical form of the curved section. It works from a distance at least. Here's a shot of the train from the inside of a R108 curve... ... and a shot at speed at the show this past weekend. Note the bulb over the IR receiver (which as noted above, has since been smoothed over and the IR receiver can no longer be seen from the outside (I'll post those photos in a week or two). If that isn't enough, you can find more photos here in the full gallery. Comments, questions, suggestions, etc. are welcome...
  4. Nemo57

    Fair train

    The original version of the train fire. Toy. :classic: Thank you for watching.
  5. Gabor

    [MOC] RC Siemens Taurus

    Hi everyone! I chose a very well-known theme for my newest MOC. Almost everyone has a Lego Siemens Taurus at home :D . If you search for it on the net, the number of the matches will be endless. We can find every building method and technique in them. But I guess, I successfully found out new solutions to copy the real one! The engine works with two M-motors. The gear ratio is 1:1,667. Hope you like it! Video: During the scenes with the real Lego track there is a slower version, I changed the gears after making them. The scenes on the yellow brickbuilt track show the faster speed. Pictures: Detailes: The model and the real one have the round and the square hole, too! The overall shape of this section is also similar to the real one, because of the upside-down 1x2 slope. The section of the door has two interesting techniques. Behind the door there is an old 3 brick high panel (without side supports). It prevents the black tiles (the handles) to be at the same plane as the door. Most of the MOCs and official Lego sets use 1x1 plates with vertical clip to fix the bars (handrails). But the distance is too big between the wall and the bar. I used this part. Behind the wall the previously mentioned 1x1 plate holds it. The bars touche the wall, there's no gap between them. Many of the older Taurus models don't have good side-windows. The builders often used stickers. But my windows contains olny Lego pieces. Technical things: The engine contains two M-motors, an AAA battery box, an IR receiver and a short extension wire. The chassis is made of thechnic bricks, and I used 16 studs to fix the body on it. Between the chassis and the bogies there are the smaller versions of technic turntables. The bogies are selfmade, I used more than 160-160 elements for them. I'm not ready with the LDD file, but I think the whole model contains approx 1400. Thanks for watching!
  6. Sci-FiFleetAdmiral

    Burlington Northern EMD SD40-2

    Hey fellow EBers, I'd like to present my second-ever train MOC, and the one I'm most proud of; a Burlington Northern EMD SD40-2 Burlington Northern EMD SD40-2 by Joshua, on Flickr Here's the engine without the base: EMD SD40-2 without base by Joshua, on Flickr The SD40-2 was introduced in January 1972 as part of EMD's Dash 2 series, competing against the GE U30C and the ALCO Century 630. Although higher-horsepower locomotives were available, including EMD's own SD45-2, the reliability and versatility of the 3,000-horsepower (2,200 kW) SD40-2 made it the best-selling model in EMD's history and the standard of the industry for several decades after its introduction. The SD40-2 was an improvement over the SD40, with modular electronic control systems similar to those of the experimental DDA40X. Peak production of the SD40-2 was in the mid-1970s. Sales of the SD40-2 began to diminish after 1981 due to the oil crisis, increased competition from GE's Dash-7 series and the introduction of the EMD SD50, which was available concurrently to late SD40-2 production. The last SD40-2 delivered to a United States railroad was built in July 1984, with production continuing for railroads in Canada until 1988, Mexico until February 1986, and Brazil until October 1989. As of 2013, nearly all still remain in service. The SD40-2 has seen service in Canada, Mexico, Brazil and Guinea. To suit export country specifications, General Motors designed the JT26CW-SS (British Rail Class 59) for Great Britain, the GT26CW-2 for Yugoslavia, South Korea, Iran, Morocco, Peru and Pakistan, while the GT26CU-2 went to Zimbabwe and Brazil. Various customizations led Algeria to receive their version of a SD40-2, known as GT26HCW-2. SD40-2s are still quite usable nearly fifty years after the first SD40 was made, and many SD40s and locomotives from the pre-Dash-2 series (GP/SD 40s, 39s and 38s, and even some SD45s) have been updated to Dash-2 specifications, possibly including downgrading from 20-645E to 16-645E engines, including, certainly, Dash-2 electrical controls, although the pre-Dash-2 frames cannot accommodate the somewhat similar HTC truck in the space allocated to the Flexicoil C truck (the frame is not long enough). Most SD40-2s which remain in service have by now been rebuilt "in-kind" for another 30 to 40 years of service, although a few (under 30) have been rebuilt to incorporate a 12-cylinder EFI-equipped 710G engine. Source, Wikipedia --------------------------------------------------------- This model has been in existence for several years, but just now reached the stage where I'm comfortable posting it, as all the previous versions were, quite frankly, abysmal. worth noting is that this model was blogged on The Brother's Brick: http://www.brothers-...0-2-locomotive/ Although you can't see it in these photos, the model features working front lights. Hope you all like it! C&C welcome! Cheers, Joshua
  7. jtlan

    Girder Bridge

    Happy November, Train Tech. I feel like I've occasionally seen bridges posted here, but for most bridges some sort of elevation change or slope is needed to integrate it into the layout. I wanted to share a simple design I came up with that addresses this issue. The basic idea is that the parts of the bridge that hold on to the edge of the gap don't extend underneath the track, so the "floor" of the bridge is at the same level as the rest of the layout: I tried to keep the bridge easy to build, using mostly basic bricks, plates, and Technic beams. The trickiest parts to find are probably the studless beams. While writing this post I realized I had made a mistake, and the bridge shown in the first photo actually spans a gap of 34 studs, instead of some multiple of 16; I've since fixed it in the CAD files. The idea is that the bridge should be as long as common baseplate lengths to integrate into layouts easily. For example, here's a 48-stud long version: Since there are repeating 16-stud sections in the bridge, it's easy to extend it. I haven't tested to figure out what the longest stable length is, but the bridge should be stronger in scenarios where the table extends down and gives the underhanging part of the bridge something to push against (like in the second image above). What do you think? I've attached the CAD files if you want to play around with them. Brickshelf (pending moderation). girderBridge_32.lxf girderBridge_48.lxf
  8. Hey all, It was time again for a big train crash! This time 13 trains (why? because "13") that crash into a big station all at once. Rebuilding of the station wasn't necessary: I've used it over a year now and it's time for something else. (I don't know what yet). I had to use all of my straight sections of rails (a little over 400). The rails were all interconnected at the station and as power source I've used a modified ATX computer power supply. Mainly because I don't have enough regulators to power all the tracks seperately and the trains run a bit faster at 12V. A train motor can handle that: it's only for a few seconds :) This is also the first crash video with a "story". Enjoy!
  9. At our Youtube channel, you'll find a video of our fully automated train layout. It will be displayed on Lego World Utrecht 2015 from October 25 (Sunday) until October 27 (Tuesday). The video shows the layout in our test room. The train layout contains eight EV3 bricks and one NXT brick to control all the Lego objects. The layout is controlled by a PC application (Microsoft.NET) that has been written by our team. Enjoy the video and maybe we'll meet in Utrecht. /Hans
  10. Boxcab Shunter Hi guys, I've just finished a new Power Functions boxcab locomotive. I hope you guys like it. It was my first ever Power Functions MOC and I think it came out quite well. Here are the specs length: 16 bricks (with couplings) hight: 11 plates colour: yellow motor: PF train motor battery box: AAA weight: 314,1 gram But without further ado, Here are some pictures of it! Front view side view Motor How I hid the battery box And how I hid the reciever the only problem is that it doesn't have any wagons... And I have zero idea about what to build for it. I thought about some giant boat trailer or a flatbed but I scrapped those ideas. Bye
  11. It has been a while… Some of you know me from my previous layout. This layout has been taken apart and the new version is now under construction. I made my plans for this new layout early March. Planning by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr A big thank you to scruffulous for the BlueBrick files he sent me once. I had a small list of things I really wanted to have in my layout: - long or large curves as described by Railbricks and Cale Leiphart. - a turntable, better looking and functioning than my previous design - it has to be modular for easy transport - it has to connect properly to the other layout builders at LowLUG. I first laid the basplate and added track to see if my idea actually fitted, it did! Next where some tiles to mark the edge of the areas which should be tiled to support the track: Then the fun really began, building actual modules: Layout V5.0 work in progress 8-4-15 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Layout V5.0 work in progress 9-4-15 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Work in Progress update 13-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr After a couple of days building I made a start with the turntable: Some more foundations and landscaping Update 20-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr And this is the current state of progress: Work in Progress update 21-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Work in Progress update 21-04-2015 by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr I will try to add updates every time I added something.
  12. Hello everyone, some time ago i got amazed when i saw the lego trains, and after a long time watching thems i wondered, if there was any lego technic train, so i decided to search, and i didnt find any one,i ve just found some trains on internet, but none really a technic model, so i wanted to make one by myself, so here it goes: This is the main idea its to have a fully working lego technic train, i wanted to make it to work without rails (because it would be to hard to make or buy them), it would work like a crane like movement. The whole model isnt very good because i had almost no time to make it, the idea its to have 2 bogie motors, both powered and steerable, i have used normal wheels with tires, because normal lego train wheels arent enough big or grippier, also the profile and the look wouldnt work, so i made this: The bogies would be powered by XL motors in the frame (from the green part) and rotated by servos, the drivetrain its like a normal truck rear transmission (but without suspension), differentials are to prevent damage to the axles during turning: And this is a picture showing how it would work: I know this model is really ugly and simple, but is because i hadnt time and im first designing the working parts, there are obviously some strength problems, but i will do my best and i will keep working on it to make it better (and maybe bigger), any suggestion for an improvement or ideas are welcome (sorry if i have a wrong spelt or misused word). Thanks.
  13. Trainmaster247

    My Microscale MOC Collection

    An overall shot Close Ups A city scene James River Crossing Metra Train BNSF Freight TGV and one I found an image of that I recreated here.
  14. carmichael1983

    Lego Train Gauge Comparison

    05th October 2015 I am aware that all Lego Trains are grouped under the collective L gauge. However what real world model railway gauge would best match the old 12.0 V / 4.5 V trains? I am currently considering that the old Hornby Clockwork O Gauge might be the closest match available. I would like to know as this would help influence my future builds. Thanks
  15. someguy

    My 'first' MOC development

    THE M1 SHARKNOSE Design procedure and notes Last year I competed a Lego big boy steam locomotive from instructions I found online plus a few modifications I wanted. Now I want to build another engine, but not flat out copy someone elses design or even recreate a real train in Lego. I prefer steam engines mostly so that is what I decided to build. There are different things I like about different engines so I decided to list them and try to incorporate them into a single design. Design details to include: - articulated engine design - large cylinders - 2 axle leading and trailing trucks - shark nose from the shark nose diesel locomotive - sloped boiler from the PRR K4 - streamlined look - large 4 seat cab supported by trailing truck - the PRR T1 4-4 driving wheels arangement - that box on a tender someone can sit in when the engine is moving in reverse - large tender - special/rare/unique tender axle/wheel arrangement - possible sloped end of tender - larger than most engines, but smaller than the big boy engine - Big Bens Bricks extra large driving wheels - custom drive rods - Powerful, yet fast - all BBB driving wheels connected to motors - 4 large motors in boiler - V2 IR reciever in tender - 2 battery boxes in tender - not black because I want a brighter colorfull engine like the Mallard and other British engines (blue, green, orange, etc) but not a rainbow of colors either Now I know I said not copy other peoples designs, but there is an axle design that Nebraska uses and I think it is the best axle design ever created, so I am going to try and re-create that axle design. - Nebraskas awesome axle design Additionally I decided not to paint any real railroads name on the tender or name the engine after a real engine. The name also includes some of my favorite ways railroads named there locomotives. PRR (my favorite Railroad) typically used a letter and number to name a type of engine eg K4, T1 etc. This is simple and easy to say imo. My nick name is 'Moe' thus the "M," "1" for my first MOC design, and sharknose after the sharknose diesel. The M1 Sharknose! I also plan on (hopefully eventually) putting "Moe's Railroad" on the tender. My lucky number is 80, so this will be engine number 80. United States flags will be on either side towards the front 'waving' similar to Nickel Plate Roads flags. Still not yet sure what symbol with 80 will be on the front. (PRR's was the keystone symbol with engine number in the center.) So after this insane list of things I want to include I started working on a design in LDD. The first thing I wanted to do was get a good wheel arrangement down with the correct heights for the boiler to clear flanges. I designed an entire wheel set and realised it was too small. The engine would have been DWARFED by the big boy. I began work on a MK2 version, except I remembered to use BBB XL drivers (represented by backwards lego flanged drivers). The sets of driving wheels both rotate in the center to provide better turning and less overhang. I imported my big boy engine into my new train file so I could reference it for height, length, and width while building. I want my engine to be shorter, the same height, and 1 stud wider than the big boys boiler. Medium motors are place holders for the large motors I will install. The two drive wheel boggies are identical except for where the front and trailing boggies attach. The tender will be about the same size as the big boys tender. The tenders wheel arrangement features 2 seperate boggies with 2 sets of trucks. The wheels under the BBs tender work well except 5 axles are connected and 2 axles are connected making one set of axles cause a large amount of overhang on turns. I simply added a 8th axle and seperated the trucks in the center for better turning. This also meets my goal of having a unique wheel arrangement under the tender! I may change those black and grey turn tables to bogie plates so the boggies dont easily fall off when I pick it up. The 1x6 flat tiles will help the tender slide over the axles. Bumpers are placed on the engine and tender due to the coupler. The coupler is designed to rotate in 3 different places for tight turns when the trailing bogie needs more freedom to follow the driving wheels. Battery boxes will be wired for longer supply, not over supply of electricity. Last, the tender will feature a 'real' coal load (bunch of spare/random black and grey 1x1x1 parts); will hide a handle to lift out the coal to show the battery boxes and IR sensor. I would like to use the axle design (Nebraskas) from the trailing truck on the tender axles, but am not sure how to make it look good. Chains will be connected from the trailing bogie to the tender. Possible coal auger (universal joint?) I am currently trying to figure out how to get a good look for the front. The boiler would stick out and be so far above the leading truck I just don't know what to put there right now. I might just design from the cab forward and see what I have once I get to the front. Suggestions welcome. If you see anything blatantly wrong, please let me know, thanks!
  16. buffalo movies

    British Rail Class 08

    A British Rail Class 08 Diesel shunter, motorised with power functions BR 7 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 8 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 3 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 1 by Golem Lord, on Flickr Easy removal of roof to access on/off switch. Please comment below!
  17. Hi! I'm in the process of revamping my layout. One thing I wanted to change was to make the track bed look as realistic as possible. Namely, I wanted single spaced railroad ties instead of the Lego double spaced tie. Single spaced ties are easy to do on the straight sections but the curves present more of a challenge. I looked around the forum for design ideas and didn't see anything specific so set about to figure out the problem myself. Seeing some of the great layouts on here (Texas LUG, PennLUG) I knew it could be done which makes the battle a little easier. Here is what I came up with. DSC01329 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01331 by Scott Roys, on Flickr
  18. Hi guys and girls. Here I will show you a diorama built in autumn 2014: a scrapyard. User Taz35 asked me in the thread of my "level crossing - 33 degrees", if I could show my other modules. So I will do this. But this place isn't built in my modular train standard, call LEN, because it was designed months before the standard grow up. In model train communities there is the opinion, that railroads shouldn't drive exaktly parallel to the table edge. So I decide to build a diagonally train track and so the whole place developed also diagonally. In the pick-a-brick wall in lego store leipzig I found a lot of wedge plates. So the idea to build this was born: The scrapyard is designed so, that all side are front sides. There's no back. So observers can take a look at all side into the yard. At the first side, you can see a sidewalk and the huge metal fence (it's in old dark gray). Also you can see a little family with a dog. (and this dog made a doggy do :). At the second side you can see a wall and a lot of plants. Also you can see the sign of the german forum 1000steine.de. There I showed this scrapyard in octobre last year and it gaves me the third place of best mocs in this month. At the third side you can see old tires and containers with a lot of scrap, mostly bionicle and other things inmetallic colors . Also you can see at the left side the biggest tree at this diorama and the huge crane. It's the first version of it and nearly closed to the crane in set 6541, but this one is a little bigger. And at the last side you can see the little bureau and the entrance for cars and buyers. There are a lot of details you can found, like the scrap collectors and the scathing watchdog. But I think, it's better, if I show you some pictures without any comments: A very important part is the track-ending sign (called "Schutzhaltesignal sh_2" in german) at the gate. It's really a original lego part, but it's very very rarely. It's included in set 4306 produced in 1980. Normally it's a part of human girls rings and certainly the most uninteressting part in this set. Today you can't buy it at bricklink. I don't know, why it is so rarely. I hope you're enjoyed about this weird moc. MTM
  19. This is a tutorial detailing how to modify a LEGO 9V train motor so that it may be powered independently of the track. This effort is part of a larger project inspired by Thorsten Benter’s article in Railbricks Issue 7 titled “PF and 9V Trains: The Best of Both Worlds”. Step 1) Open the 9V motor. This has been covered elsewhere, so it should suffice to say you carefully remove the 12 tabs holding the bottom cover on with an xacto blade or something similar. There is enough friction to hold the bottom cover in place later even without the tabs. Step 2) Remove all internal parts. Ignore the fact that I took this photo after completing step 3. Step 3) Use a rotary tool with a cutoff disk to bisect the metal strips in the top of the motor enclosure. These strips are exposed in the top studs, and we will later use them to pull power from the track and apply power to the motor. Very important: Be sure to apply NO PRESSURE when using the rotary tool. Instead, just lightly touch the spinning cutoff disk against the metal strip, and let the tool do the work. It will take some time, so be patient and careful. If you apply pressure, the metal strips will heat up and deform the plastic. If the plastic deforms, it will be impossible to interface with LEGO bricks and PCB adapters (like the one in the upper-right corner of the picture). Keep it light and easy. You will thank yourself later when you haven’t ruined your motor’s plastic housing. Step 4) Desolder the metal pieces from the electric motor. I don’t have a picture of this exact step because I used the electric motor from a Power Functions train motor. If replacing the 9V motor with a Power Functions motor, open up the PF train motor using a T6 bit, remove the electric motor, and desolder it from the wires. Step 5) Solder a short length of wire to each tab on the electric motor (do this outside the housing to avoid accidently melting it). I used 32 gauge DCC decoder wire, but you can use whatever you have that will fit inside the motor. Reassemble the motor with exception of the wheels and the bottom cover. Step 6) Attach the wires to the outermost halves of the metal strips; the innermost halves are connected to the wheels through the wipers. I used a silver epoxy for this. I chose silver epoxy for two reasons: 1) I didn’t want to risk melting the studs by soldering the wires to the metal strips, and 2) silver epoxy has a lower resistance than graphite epoxy. Step 7) Reinstall the wheels and make sure everything is running smoothly. This would also be a good time to lubricate the gears if you want to. Make sure you don’t get any lubricant on the electrical parts! Press the bottom cover onto what remains of the tabs, and you’re done! If you ever want to run the motor directly from track power, simply use a PCB adapter with a loopback connector or connect a LEGO wire (9V or light gray end of PF). This is what a PCB adapter looks like when installed on the motor. (I’ve updated the design since taking the previous photo.) And here is a connector leading up to the electronics (currently just a Power Functions battery box, soon to include a Bluetooth receiver) in my Horizon Express. The connector plugs into the PCB adapter. The PCB adapter is attached to the electrical studs on the motor. And the motor is pinned to the bottom plate of the locomotive. Now I can charge the battery in my train without taking it off the track, run it indefinitely on a mixed metal and plastic layout, and have non-line-of-sight control when I add the Bluetooth receiver. It really is the best of both worlds!
  20. THERIZE

    What should i buy?

    My birthday is coming soon and I really want to buy some LEGO trains. But i can't spend 500 euros on LEGO and trains are expensive. I'm looking forward to have a Maersk train on my layout but i don't have the feeling that im happy with only 2 container wagons. But i can't afford 2 sets and i don't need/want an extra locomotive. And it doesn't have motors. But the design is 10 out of 10. A city train is cheaper for what its got but the details are a non. I could wait for a new creator expert train. I won't buy the Horizon Express just because i would but two of it and my layout i to small for it. So i can choose from this things: Maersk train, i would need to buy extra wagons and power functions Red lego city freight train (3677) Emerald night, i would need to buy extra coaches and power functions Where would you guys choose for?
  21. legofrik

    MOC Railroad warehouse

    Nothing special. Just an old railroad warehouse.
  22. Nemo57

    The locomotive TEP-70.

    TEP70 (locomotive with electric transmission, passenger). Axial formula 30-30 [1] Full service weight 135 m ± 3% Load on the driving axles on the rails 21 m [1] The length of the locomotive 21 700 mm Engine's type 2A-5D49 (16CHN26 / 26) Engine power 4000 hp [1] transmission type Nuvola apps cache.png Electric variable-DC Type TED ED 121AU1 The diameter of the wheel 1,220 mm [1] Tractive force continuous operation 17 000 kg [1] The speed of continuous operation 48-50 km / h [ There are two variants of the front headlights. Since we are building in the width of 6, then had to choose a more ancient version 2 instead of 4 lights. Goodbye, thanks for watching. Sorry for the large number of photos.
  23. Dread Pirate Rob

    Repair of broken 12v (4.5v) couplers

    As there is a thread on repairing 12v motors and one on couplers, I thought the old timers here might be interested in my technique for repairing 12v couplers. I'm sure this must have been tried before but I couldn't find any previous threads. I turned the drill bits with my fingers but a quality drill should do even better. I worked my way up to the correct diameter through three different bits to avoid stressing the plastic, then shaved off the resulting lip with a sharp knife. (Mandated Government Warning: Lego was harmed in the making of this post (but it was only technic) Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Repair of Lego 12v and 4.5v train couplers by Canvas Rails, on Flickr
  24. Hi guys, I have been trying to make some trains (generally diesel) and a problem that I have always found is powering. for a steam locomotive this is usually pretty simple because of the lack of articulation but wel, bogies are articulated and motors are mounted in the build itself. my question was, how does gearing react to this? and what is the handiest for compact solutions? vertical or horizontal? with vertical you get this: lego 6L train bogie by alterlegotechnic, on Flickr how could something like this be used in a locomotive? would the motor stick loosely in the chassis and what about a vertical motor like this (http://www.brickshel...16/cam06194.jpg) will there happen something in corners? like that the would go faster or some? and with Horizontal you get this Iowa Pacific SLRG 515/518 Mechanics by wildchicken_13, on Flickr how can gearing do this? i mean the rotating bogie, what happens to the gears in it? obviously could 2 M motors be needed for a small train (around 4 cars) or will it fail? I heard something about a V2 receiver? I have a V1 (I think) and that a normal one won't be able to give enough power to both? What is better? XL or M? when will a XL be needed? so in one sentence: vertical or horizontal? what happens to gearing and what is easier when using normal motors?
  25. Dread Pirate Rob

    Brickexpo Canberra 2015

    G'day all, Please find attached a couple of quick photos I took of the trains at Brickexpo in Canberra, Australia today. Back for day two tomorrow. Probably the largest monorail to ever be assembled in this hemisphere. Enjoy, Rob Brickexpo Canberra, Australia 29 August 2015 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr Brickexpo Canberra, Australia 29 August 2015 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr As always, more on Flickr.