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Found 329 results

  1. Hi, I have recently started a tracked vehicle project. I have made a few other topics about it, building it etc. I was wondering if anyone has made a vehicle then turned around and made it articulated. (Especially tracked) I also need tips on how to do this. Thanks
  2. RC driving and steering. All wheel drive and Live axle suspension Lifted with Mickey Thompson tires: Internals More on my Flickr Youtube video (I know doesn't work in some countries, you can find it on flickr too)
  3. I am looking to build a MOC and want to use drivers either equal in scale the PRR's T1 or larger in scale. I believe BBB XL drivers are still too small, so what is the next best option? Here are a few I was thinking of: 1) Contacting BBB and trying to get a custom set of deivers made. 2) Contacting the custom siderods guy and getting a custom,set of drivers made. 3) Purchasing Lionel T1 wheels and modifying a few bricks to use them. 1 and 2 will be pricey, but it will be closer to true lego. 3 will add weight, improve traction, and reduce derails at high speed, but will need to modify lego brick. Other suggestions welcome!
  4. I've been lurking here for a while but have never been satisfied with any of my MOCs enough to post them here. The nearest I came was an MLRS that worked well but looked rubbish :P Anyway, I'm in the process of designing a Grave Digger monster truck replica (approx 1:15 ish scale). Features: - 4 wheel drive - 4 wheel steering - Steering modes: 2-wheel, 4-wheel, crab - 4-link, very long travel suspension - Suspension travel is also to scale. Almost. - All motors contained in the chassis (no servo-on-axle affairs) - SBrick control - Tyres from a Tamiya Lunchbox I'm designing this in Sketchup and rendering with the Twilight Render (free) plugin. Note that I've drawn all the pieces myself, and they're all drawn to have a low polygon count so that my machine doesn't croak to a halt. Some of the pieces aren't very accurate atm (e.g. the XL motors). So far, I think I've got the chassis designed: And here's a couple of closeups: Issues I can foresee so far: - Friction from so many knob wheels - Bump steer (but I don't want to sacrifice suspension travel by putting the servo on the axle) - Not sure whether having the steering upside down like that will have any negative effects. - Not sure if I can get all of the parts in green that I want Can anyone see any other potential issues with this design (before I start putting in BL orders)? Thanks
  5. Hello, I'm happy to introduce you to my modular garage with power functions and pneumatics: This modular has the following components: 1x Rechargeable battery box (8878) 1x M motor 1x air tank 1x manometer 2x small pumps (6L) 2x small pneumatic cylinders 2x medium pneumatic cylinders with square base Approximately 1,5m of pneumatic tubes (I didn't count, maybe there's more) I always wanted to mix technic and regular system bricks and I already did so with my Ice Cream Parlor (http://www.eurobrick...opic=111129&hl=). Now, with my third modular, it was time to introduce pneumatics! :D This is the coolest part of LEGO for me and to increase the cool factor I have used manometer as well :D This building's purpose is mostly to have fun, so I didn't care that much for the fact that gigantic manometer on top of the building is rather rare sight in real life ;) I simply always wanted to have one and observe the changing pressure as I play around with my model and here it is! Anyway, we have here compressor that powers cylinders that open the doors (2 small cylinders) and rise and lower the car lift (2 medium w/ square base). The list accepts cars up to 7 wide and has a lot of lifting power. You can remove all three sections of the roof for easy access. Here is full gallery on Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com...modular-garage# And here is movie on youtube: Enjoy!
  6. So I prefer to build small. I managed to miniaturize all the functionality of a standard forklift (driving, lifting, tilting) into a chassis only 11 studs wide. One of the advantages this offered me (among better strength, speed and maneuverability) is that I was able to build an entire warehouse to muck about in. This wasn't always the plan. I thought I'd just build two or three containers to show off its functionality, and that would be it. Then, the Android Sbrick app crashed and burned (or at least, it did on my phone) and it took two months for them to update the thing into relative functionality again. So I had plenty of time to build some scenery. For the enthusiasts; I've uploaded a LXF file to Vayamenda.com so you can tinker with it. (By the way, if you're a person who has built a forklift, could you link me to a picture of your forklift in this view? https://www.flickr.com/photos/28134808@N02/26063611241/ I'm very curious to see how it's scaled relative to other people's MOCs.)
  7. I would like to present my motorized and remote controlled (IR) version of this year's Monster Truck set (42005). My first goal was to keep the overall look and dimensions the same as the official model: The wheels, chassis and body are in the same positions, Only the axles, inner workings, and battery box have changed. My second goal was to somehow get the vehicle to have both steering and 4WD: As you can see above, I achieved the steering by making the entire front and rear axles turn via the use of gear racks and 6L links, while the drive goes through the ball joints, differentials, and portal hubs. Steering is handled by a PF Servo Motor, while drive is handled by a PF L motor. It is powered by a PF Rechargeable Battery, and a PF IR Receiver V2. My third goal was to increase the vehicles clearance as much as possible: And my last goal was to maintain a good amount of articulation: I had to modify the suspension attachment to allow an extra degree of movement to allow the suspension to operate smoothly. It runs quite well over small obstacles, however it is very top-heavy, so it does roll over quite easily. This isn't helped by the fact that as it turns, it leans outwards (opposite to how a skateboard works). Here are the parts (guts) that I had to remove from the original model: All pictures can be clicked on for larger versions at Brickshelf (once moderated). Here are some more pics: And last but not least, here is a link to the LDraw file: 42005_motorized_monster_truck.mpd Overall I am pleased that I was able to get this motorized given that there was only a small space to work with, and the model is very sturdy. I hope you like my motorized and RC 42005 Monster Truck. Any and all feedback/constructive criticism welcome. Edit: I have submitted this MOC to Rebrickable. Edit: I have created a quick video: Sorry about the audio quality - it was a very windy day!
  8. Taking a break from my High Speed Train Project, I decided to once again attempt an Amfleet car, easier said than done due to the curved design of the car, I also plan on building a AEM-7 to go with it and upload the locomotive and passenger car to Lego Ideas. The carriage is 8 studs wide, I attempted to make it 6 studs wide since it's going on Lego Ideas, but because of the way the body of the passenger car curves inwards on the bottom (and top), it looked horrible being 6 studs wide. The car contains 22 seats and a bathroom (inspired by the Horizon Express bathroom), opening external doors, I have not built internal doors (yet), the real train has sliding doors, but that is not possible (at least for me, I'm sure someone else could do it) with LEGO, currently the passenger car contains 662 pieces, but that number will be increased when I add opening internal doors. The bogies are able to swivel 360 degrees which will allow them to turn with ease on the tight turns of standard LEGO track. Please also check out Shupp's Amtrak AEM-7 and Amfleet Coach from 2011. Thanks for reading, God Bless Christ be with you all .lxf file: http://www.mediafire...mp15/amtrak.lxf
  9. Somewhere between talking to CommanderWolf about boxcabs, seeing his HH1000, and reading up on old diesel-electric locomotives on the internet, I somehow got the idea to build a model of the very first production diesel-electric locomotives in the United States. These locomotives were produced by a consortium of three companies: ALCo, General Electric, and Ingersoll-Rand. Diminutive as they were (this model represents a 60-ton, 300hp locomotive), they are the direct ancestors of the diesel-electric locomotives powering the US rail system today. As far as I can tell, only three locomotives were actually built with this specific layout: CNJ #1000, B&O #1, and Lehigh Valley 100. Later models featured doors at both ends in addition to the sides; in addition, larger 100-ton versions were built. They could run in either direction, although there are distinct ends and sides: the above image shows the "B" side and "2" end (which I consider the "rear" of the locomotive). I went into construction pretty set on equipping this locomotive with Power Functions while still building an accurate model (at the same scale as the rest of my locomotives). While there are examples of very small Power-Functions-equipped locomotives, I was pretty much dead-set against using the Power Functions train motor -- the locomotive would be too fast, and I wouldn't be able to accurately model the trucks. So, I had to fit motor(s), battery box, and receiver into the shell of the locomotive: As usual, the Power Functions receiver turned out to be the biggest bugbear in this whole adventure. Its shape is extremely inconvenient. While there is just barely enough room to fit Power Functions M motors vertically inside the locomotive above the trucks, placing them would imply that the battery box would have to go between them ... leaving no room for the receiver. I was not going to accept powering only one of the trucks (for a model this light, you need all the traction you can get). The locomotive is not long enough to orient the M motors any other way, so I turned to the trusty 9V gearmotor instead. However, I determined that, even using that motor, there wasn't enough room inside the model for both two motors and the receiver. It was around this point that I decided that 7-wide was the correct width for the model, to avoid it looking too big (it also resulted in better proportions for the windows at the end of the locomotive). At 7-wide, there are only 5 studs of width inside the locomotive, of which 4 studs are taken up by the battery box. The transmission would have to either be 1 stud wide, or I would have to integrate panels into the side of the locomotive in the hopes of hiding the gearing. So what did I do? Restrictions breed creativity: (chain doesn't connect correctly due to LDD difficulties) Turns out, the entire drivetrain can be made to fit into the space available using a chain. The grey idler wheel attaches to a 1x2 brick with pin in the wall of the locomotive. Other parts of the drivetrain are similarly integrated with the body, and the motor and battery box form integral parts of the model's frame. The Power Functions receiver just barely fits in this awkward position above the gears on the non-motor end, and receives signals through a trans-black 1x2 brick on the roof: It is actually a pretty decent puller despite its small size (it is the "AGEIR" listed in this thread; the power rating has since risen to ~0.2W after I carefully lubricated and reassembled the entire drive system). Oddly for a PF-equipped locomotive, it is possible to back-drive the motor by pushing the locomotive, due to the low mechanical resistance of the 9V gearmotor. An additional side "benefit" of the drive system is that the chain makes a pleasant diesel-like clicking/rumbling sound when the locomotive is in motion. As troublesome as all these restrictions (that I placed on myself...) were, I really enjoyed figuring out how to fit all the mechanical components into such a small space, while still maintaining an accurate depiction of the prototype. It just goes to show what's possible using Power Functions. Brickshelf gallery here. If you're curious about the history of these locomotives, you can read about them here.
  10. Well, I've got a bunch of ideas and other random things, as I am building more often, so rather than make a dedicated thread for every off the cuff thing or proof of concept I turn out, I'm just going to compile it here. The first item is a proof of concept chassis for a Gottwald crane, which I meant to be an AK-912, but there are many different models that have a similar chassis, including the AMK-1000, and the AK-680. It's a WIP, but I have other projects I want to finish first, so I made this, and am currently working on an LDD file. Once that file is finished, this thing will be taken apart, so I can use the pieces for other projects, and once I am ready to give this my all, I will use the LDD file to rebuild it. Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr The model is meant to be like an official set, like 42043, meaning one motor, and no RC. The chassi has a V-12 engine, like the real thing, and 8 wheel drive, with a single middle differential. I found that given how far apart the axles are, a differential is required between the 2 sets of driven axles. The different angle between the steering axles is achieved by a diagonal beam, which is very effective. There is almost no backlash, and the axles are in sync automatically. Also, due to how it works, the axles are set to the correct angle relative to each other automatically, due to how it is built, without any calculations. Another picture of the front unit: Gottwald AK-912 chassis. by Saberwing007, on Flickr In addition, the chassis can be separated into three parts, like the real thing. Seperate by Saberwing007, on Flickr Although the steering on the front and rear units works well, it's connecting the two that has proven problematic. I blame lack of stiffness in the middle reversing linkage, and using friction pins for every steering connection. But, for now, this is finished. I will get back to it later, I don't know how much later, though.
  11. Here's a Beach Buggy I made for an upcoming truck trial this weekend. This trial only has a few rules: Use 62.4 wheels, 2 motors for propulsion max and 1 for steering. It's based on Zblj's "Blue" suspension, drive and steering, modified to fit my beach buggy/trial needs. It features 4 wheel drive and steering. Was a little bit of work to work with the bright green from only 1 Le Mans set. Forgot to make a picture with the suspension pressed. Might make it tomorrow (bad lighting now). It looks pretty sweet with it compressed. The rear wheelarches look like they hug the wheels (a stud or so of space left between wheel and wheelarch). The car bottoms out with the suspension fully compressed. Here you can see how much I stole from Zblj. I only changed the type of suspension arms, slightly altered the steering mechanism and placed my motors differently for a lower look. (ignore my Lego tripod in the bottom right) Thank you for your time.
  12. Zerobricks

    WIP Silverfox

    After the realtive succesfull black wolf I think its time to make a new, better and cuter Technic animal. I decided to make a silverfox, since I have some 1000+ of antennas with the gray base. Compared to the black wolf, this model will have many improvments starting with total rebuild of joints. Back in 'ol 2011 the ball joints just came out and were rather a novelity. Now I have enough ball joints, and linear actuators to make a mechanical analougous of hips, shoulder and muscles. Total amount of LA's used in this model will be 10 or more, having 6 large and 4 small LAs. The number of ball joints will be 6, four for legs and 2 for head and tail. I already built a mockup both in LDD and real life. Notice that the body is quite compact even though there are 6M motors, 6LA's and some 30 gears in there. So far it may seem like a unrecognisable shape of bits, but if you looks closer you can see where the legs will attach to the body. The whole body is also double articulated in front and rear. And its articulated to the front and rear can swing not only sideways, but also up and down, so the fox will be able to bend spine in all directions.
  13. Here's what I've been working on in the past few weeks... Features: 10x10x8 wheel drive 6L motors for driving 2 Independent dual gear tranmsissions 2 Steerings motors Very long travel torque sensitive double wishbone portal independent suspension on all wheels Working hook arm with a total of 8 pneumatic cylinders Two newly designed autopumps Interrior with 3 seats For more info please check the video: Now all I need is to get the money to build this 3500+ parts monster... Anyone willing do donate?
  14. After skyping with a good friend of mine braker23 he gave me an idea to make A sherp 4x4. Here's the real deal: It took me an hour to make a first protoype in LDD, which you can see here: As you can see everything is built around the boat hull, so that the model can also float like the real thing. And here's the first rough build in the water: I used track elements wrapped around tumbler wheels to get the paddle shape. I will need 4 more track elements since 2 can fit with ease on each wheel: Underside you can see the reinforcments keeping the boat hull secured: So far there are soem problems with 36 tooth gears skipping under high torque which I belive I can fix by using 8L axles with stop instead of current 5,5 ones. If that doesnt help I can always use small turntables. I also need 4 more tracks, but currently I spent all my money on parts for silverfox and oshkosh 10x10, so these will ahve to wait a bit. I very surprised on how well this thing floats, but it cannot support much more weight, so the bodywork will have bo light and basic in order to keep it from sinking. Whats your opinion guys?
  15. 42029 Lego Technic Customized Pickup Truck in highly modified form. Features include ultra-firm dual independent suspension. Motorized with Power Functions.
  16. I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert LEGO building). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver, and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see It was not designed to be converted to power functions / motorized. Here is a photo of the underside: I am not sure the easiest / best way to add power for drive and steering. It just has to move a little bit in the classroom, not drive outdoors in all terrain. I posted in another forum and a member suggested that I post here. Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks much!
  17. Today, I found a video from our good friend Sariel about a new, Lego compatible motor system called RCBRICKS, from a startup of the same name. These motors look quite unlike PF motors, and seem to be based off of high torque hobby servo motors, and as such are quite capable. Watch the video for more information. (It's in Polish, but the subtitles are just fine, and in English.) Here are the Pros and Cons, as far as I can see: Pro: Lots of power Highly responsive Great range Should be relatively inexpensive. Compatible with any kind of RC gear. Con: Not compatible with Lego PF system in any way. RC receivers and transmitters are expensive. Questionable battery choice. Motors are entirely new shapes, and not readily compatible with the system, meaning that they are not drop in replacements Unproven startup. Receivers and batteries are not Lego compatible. I don't know, they sound okay, but the thing is, what most people have problems with is either the power supply, or receivers of the Lego PF system, and not the motors. While I think it is a valiant attempt to rectify the Lego systems short range, I don't think they are going about it the right way. I am also kind of dubious about the idea of using a USB batter pack for this, as it is not really Lego compatible, and has to be awkwardly rubber banded in place. It would be preferable if there were a way to go from RC standard to LPF standard, as having all new motors might alienate people who just want a drop in PF receiver replacement, like SBrick. What do you guys think?
  18. Hello, I noticed that the performance of the original 9398 was not very good so I decided to do this mod including 5 motors. IMG_0086 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I kept the body original and suspension except shock placement and drive and did extend the wheelbase but kept the original width. The suspension has about ~45* of flex and is responsibly soft and responsive to bumps. I used 2 XL motors in the back, 2 L motors in the front and replaced the servo motor with a M-motor for steering and added 1 pair of headlights. IMG_0116 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_0117 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The front axle has a kingpin incline making the wheel pivot near the inside of the wheel making it easier to steer and makes it have less stress on the steering motor. You may be wondering about the use of 2 different motors in the dive chain causing problems in speed differences but your worries can be put to rest because a L motor geared 12/20 is almost the same as 1 XL. IMG_0121 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Thank you for reading-watching! More pictures on my flickr https://www.flickr.c...6592@N04/albums
  19. Hi all. I'm currently working on a new lego room and loft space and wondering what long term project to start I've had thoughts of the wisbeach and Upwell tramway rekindled. I've always planned a loft railway and this seems like a great prototype for a lego model. Reasonable flat... plenty of character and features on a 'small' scale. I've seen numerous lego versions of 'Toby' the tram and mavis but I'd want them powered. Last time I did lego trains was the 9 system. Could you tell/show me how the newer power functions is set up in the smallest possible space please? I'd love to see your small engines and diesel and find out how you squeeze everything in. Am i right in thinking there's 4 parts... the ir reciever and controller, motor and battery box? I will of course show my progress shortly! For those not familiar with the tramway I found this great little website: http://www.lner.info/co/GER/wisbech/wisbech.php
  20. I need suggestion with my car. I have images below of what I have so far. A few questions. What springs should I use. Hard or soft? What wheels or tires? And I need ideas on how to complete it. So far my axle has working steering and a driveshaft connected. I don't know what to do next as I am a new technic builder. If any more information or pictures are needed please tell me :) Images: http://imgur.com/a/QbhXw
  21. dr_spock

    [MOC] Motorized Turbo Tank

    I whipped together a motorized turbo tank MOC for an upcoming Star Wars weekend event at the LEGOLAND Discovery Centre. It's 25 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 17 inches high. It features Power Functions, 8 wheel steering, suspension, 10 large Unimog tires, reinforced internal Technic frame in case kids or adults there can't read the 'Do Not Touch' signs. My MOC had to be built with parts I had on hand. The Empire Monetary Fund (EMF) is too broke to finance BrickLink orders after Christmas. Motorized Turbo Tank by dr_spock_888, on Flickr As you can see, I added some non-Star Wars bits for kids to spot. Video:
  22. andrewganschow

    Power Functions Wiring

    I just bought a mini air pump today and an extension wire with the intention of splicing the pump to the wire. I wanted to know which wires on a PF cable carry current, and which carry signal for RC controls. I know there are two wires to carry current and two to carry signal, I’m just not sure which wires do what. Thank you in advance for the help.
  23. Hey, i would love to share my latest Creation with you guys. Its been a while since my last MOC, but i took the time to build something cool. It is definitely one of my best so far. And for the first time i decided to provide detailed instruction for this MOC. What are the functions of the ZlL E134 Truck: First of all, i used 2x SBricks and 2x 88000 Battery Packs. 2 XL Motos for propulsion 2 L Motors for steering 1 M Motor for gear change (2 speed transmission) 1 LED on the roof (there is a lot of space to use more LED) a working 12 Zylinder Fake Engine behind the cabin. 2965 Parts , about 3,4 Kg. There is still room for improvements. Under the hood is enough space to put in what ever you want. The whole Bodywork can be removed very easy. (modular design) But as always, a short video can show you the Model in action. Instruction: https://rebrickable....nkmad-max-desig Thanks to Madoka for the inspiration with his Tatra 813 Truck. Great work as always.
  24. After a month, my Arduino clone has arrived from China. I plan to use it to add some inexpensive automation to our LUG's ad hoc layout. We are starting to display trains and don't have anything permanently built. Some of our events are outside in the park where there is no plug in power. One of the requirements would be battery power option. We are basically starting new with the current LEGO train and power offerings. We agreed to make Power Functions our club standard. I selected an Arduino clone. I figured for $4 USD, it is not a big lost if I fried it. There is a reason it is $4. The clone is not quite exactly the same as the real Arduino UNO. It uses a CH340 USB to serial chip instead of the FTDI USB to serial chip found on the real Arduino. In order for the Arduino IDE to communicate with the board, the CH341 driver has to be installed. It doesn't come with the IDE software from the Arduino website. The driver can be downloaded from the Chinese manufacturer's website. Note the site is in Chinese: http://www.wch.cn/do...341SER_EXE.html For a quick test, I hooked up an IR LED desoldered from an old DVD player remote to the board and wrote a simple sketch. I made use of a LEGO Power Function library (http://forum.arduino...p?topic=89310.0) Some resources on the Internet say IR LED in the 940nm range works best for Power Function IR receivers. It worked! And it was not as difficult as I thought it would be. I've never used an Arduino before. More eBay parts are to arrive from China. I'm planning to use reed switches for detection. I think they are the simplest to set up and tear down with just two wires to connect. I ordered inexpensive SG90 servo motors to control the switches. I still have to figure out how to mount them on other club members switch tracks and remove at the end of events. I think this is going to be fun.
  25. Lego Engineer

    [MOC] Adelaide Metro 4000 Class EMU

    After a few years off from MOC building I can finally present another creation. This is one complete set of the new 4000 class commuter trains used in Adelaide, South Australia. The A unit is powered by one power functions train motor. LEGO A-City 4000 Class EMU MOC by Lego Engineer, on Flickr The 4000 class are the latest addition to Adelaide's commuter rail system. They are also the first electric trains on the network. Introduced in 2014, each one is comprised of three-car semi-permanently coupled sets. A-City 4000 Class EMU by Lego Engineer, on Flickr A-City 4000 Class EMU by Lego Engineer, on Flickr