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Showing results for tags 'Power functions'.
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Boxcab Shunter Hi guys, I've just finished a new Power Functions boxcab locomotive. I hope you guys like it. It was my first ever Power Functions MOC and I think it came out quite well. Here are the specs length: 16 bricks (with couplings) hight: 11 plates colour: yellow motor: PF train motor battery box: AAA weight: 314,1 gram But without further ado, Here are some pictures of it! Front view side view Motor How I hid the battery box And how I hid the reciever the only problem is that it doesn't have any wagons... And I have zero idea about what to build for it. I thought about some giant boat trailer or a flatbed but I scrapped those ideas. Bye
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8081 Extreme Cruiser & PF Modification
Boxerlego posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
8081 Extreme Cruiser & PF Modification PF Mod Ever wanted to see the Extreme Cruise be taken to the EXTREME. Then watch this Extreme Cruiser as it goes over the roughest terrain. Edit: Edited the video due to loud intro music -
Ever wonder how much power you're actually getting out of your locomotives? Commander Wolf and I did! Of course there's Philo's motor characteristics page, but that only tells you the motor power ratings under the load he tested with, under his conditions. We wanted to see how much drawbar power we were actually getting, particularly with Power Functions locomotives. Here's our setup: A string is attached to a pin inserted where the magnet would normally go on the locomotive. The string is attached to a weight, which dangles off the balcony into the floor below (a 3-meter drop). Here's what we tested: AGEIR Power source: PF rechargeable battery Motor: 71427 gearmotor 2096 Power source: 2-cell 20C Lithium-Ion battery (custom) Motor: 2x PF M motor Baggage Car 999 Power source: Wall wart Motor: 2x 9V train motor HH1000 Power source: AA battery box with Eneloops Motor: 2x PF M motor U30 Power source: AA battery box with Eneloops Motor: 2x PF L motor We did two tests. Traction Test We ran each locomotive at top speed. If it moved the weight, we increased the weight until it no longer moved, then recorded the result. We then divided the max weight pulled by the weight of the locomotive to get an effective traction ratio (for 2096, we divided by the weight of the center powered section only). Unfortunately, since our weight was made up of two battery boxes, the minimum granularity in our measurement was the weight of a AA battery. Results: The locomotives with the PF train wheel, as well as the 9V motor unit, all had about the same traction ratio, from 0.25 to 0.27. No. 2096 had a much higher ratio of 0.337. I'll note that 2096 uses the large drive wheels with custom O-ring tires, rather than the official rubber band. Some locomotives had different traction ratios going forward and going backward. Power Test In this test, we fixed the weight at 98g. We then measured how long it took each locomotive to raise the weight a fixed distance. From this we could calculate the power output by each locomotive against that particular load: mass of weight (kg) * acceleration of gravity (m/s^2) * distance (m) / time (s) Results: Note the high values for 2096 and the baggage car -- this is due to their high top speed (large drivers on 2096, speedy 9V motor on the baggage car -- we ran the 9V motors at top speed). We ran the test on our top three winners with 2 more AA batteries of weight: Note that the power ratings for 2096 and U30 went up more than the power rating of the baggage car did. Interpretation: PF motors can continue to haul heavy loads at decent speeds, whereas 9V motors are gradually slowed by the addition of more weight. How much is 98 grams of load equivalent to though? The bonus round: Measuring Rolling Resistance We hooked up some unpowered rolling stock to the weight, and increased the weight until they began to move. Turns out the normal 9V wheelsets, lightly lubricated, have neglible resistance. The weight of a single 2x4 brick was sufficient to move a piece of 2-axle rolling stock. Of course, there are things with a lot more rolling resistance: - Commander Wolf's PRR T1: 52 grams worth of resistance - The entire rake of P54 cars (3 total): 32 grams worth of resistance Conclusions Effective traction is about the same regardless of your power source. If you want more pulling power, increase the weight of your locomotive ... or try to find some tires with more traction. U30 weighs 1020 grams and could lift ~ 250 grams. 9V train motors produce a huge amount of power ... if you want to go really fast. For pulling heavy loads at more sedate speeds, use the PF motors. We haven't tested the 9V train motors at a lower speed, but observational evidence suggests that their effective pulling power is drastically reduced at lower speeds. The rolling resistance of lubricated stock wheelsets is almost nothing compared to much lower than the rolling resistance of technic axles. Be prepared to fight lots of resistance if you make custom rolling stock that doesn't use the stock wheelsets. Until next time!
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Small scale truck trial
Zerobricks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Since the new Arocs relased with new suspension parts and a great idea for the rear axle I was thinking, why not also make small scale truck trial machines/races with 62,4mm wheels as a reference point. I think this translates to roughly 1:13 scale. Because this is a smaller scale the models should be easier to build with less parts and more structualy rigid I think a max of 2 x XL, 3x L or 4x M motors should be enough at this scale... What do you guys think? Wanna debate, maybe even set up some guidelines and build something? P.S. click here for some axle ideas at this scale -
[MOC] Power Functions Saddle Tank Shunter in Dark Blue
Dread Pirate Rob posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
The awesome tank engine Dutchiedoughnut is assembling inspired me to get stuck into my next project. I destroyed my new dark blue Creator Jet but used the wonderful parts to put together my first Saddle Tank 0-4-0 shunter. Lights by Canvas Rails, on Flickr The Details: Freelance design, there is no DB prototype as far as I am aware (The DB doors were the last ones I had) 6 wide chassis, 7 wide at the saddle tank. All power functions components on board Two working lights Minifig driver (I cheated a bit here, he has no legs on account of the extreme cable situation in the cab) 0-4-0 wheel arrangement of standard Lego wheels fitted directly to a train motor Cranks for the side rods have been kragled to improve reliability at exhibitions Cranks have also been shortened (sorry purists) to work on 12v track geometry Power button activated by pressing the sand dome PF receiver is in the bunker with 1x1 round plate coal LEGO Power Functions Saddle Tank Locomotive in Dark Blue by Canvas Rails, on Flickr LEGO Power Functions Saddle Tank Locomotive in Dark Blue by Canvas Rails, on Flickr LEGO Power Functions Saddle Tank Locomotive in Dark Blue by Canvas Rails, on Flickr LEGO Power Functions Saddle Tank Locomotive in Dark Blue by Canvas Rails, on Flickr I really love this dark blue but it does not photograph well with my lighting setup. The colour in the first photo is closest to how it looks in real life. Does anyone have any suggestions for photographing dark blue? I am considering Bricklinking some more 1x1 dark blue bricks for the cab but then again the black is a nice contrast and is growing on me. I would be most interested in your thoughts. Cheers, Rob -
[WIP][TTC2015] Mercedes 2045 challenge
Zerobricks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I decided to also try the Mercedes 2045 challenge, and here's what I made so far in LDD. Its a very compact drive indepent suspension with pushrod suspension...the truck will be 4WD More info and updates soon... -
A British Rail Class 08 Diesel shunter, motorised with power functions BR 7 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 8 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 3 by Golem Lord, on Flickr BR 1 by Golem Lord, on Flickr Easy removal of roof to access on/off switch. Please comment below!
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Mercedes W123 Coupé
roxXx5 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello fellow brickers, today i want to introduce you into a new MOC i've started to build at the beginning of august. It's a Mercedes W123 coupé. The reason for me to build this car was one of my co-workers drives one and every once in a while he takes me for a ride in this beauty. But enough about the story behind. Here are some technical features. Power Functions: - 2L-motors for driving - 1M-motor for steering - 1M-motor for shifting gears Drivetrain and suspension: - fully independend suspension - ackermann geometry - kingpin inclination - casterangle - 3-Speed gearbox - RWD with differential - working straight 4 fake engine - working steering wheel Bodywork: - openable doors, bonnet and trunk I tried to upload at least 2 more pictures here but it won't let me do this.... so here is a link to mocpages for you: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/419387 Thank you all for watching. Rolf -
This is a tutorial detailing how to modify a LEGO 9V train motor so that it may be powered independently of the track. This effort is part of a larger project inspired by Thorsten Benter’s article in Railbricks Issue 7 titled “PF and 9V Trains: The Best of Both Worlds”. Step 1) Open the 9V motor. This has been covered elsewhere, so it should suffice to say you carefully remove the 12 tabs holding the bottom cover on with an xacto blade or something similar. There is enough friction to hold the bottom cover in place later even without the tabs. Step 2) Remove all internal parts. Ignore the fact that I took this photo after completing step 3. Step 3) Use a rotary tool with a cutoff disk to bisect the metal strips in the top of the motor enclosure. These strips are exposed in the top studs, and we will later use them to pull power from the track and apply power to the motor. Very important: Be sure to apply NO PRESSURE when using the rotary tool. Instead, just lightly touch the spinning cutoff disk against the metal strip, and let the tool do the work. It will take some time, so be patient and careful. If you apply pressure, the metal strips will heat up and deform the plastic. If the plastic deforms, it will be impossible to interface with LEGO bricks and PCB adapters (like the one in the upper-right corner of the picture). Keep it light and easy. You will thank yourself later when you haven’t ruined your motor’s plastic housing. Step 4) Desolder the metal pieces from the electric motor. I don’t have a picture of this exact step because I used the electric motor from a Power Functions train motor. If replacing the 9V motor with a Power Functions motor, open up the PF train motor using a T6 bit, remove the electric motor, and desolder it from the wires. Step 5) Solder a short length of wire to each tab on the electric motor (do this outside the housing to avoid accidently melting it). I used 32 gauge DCC decoder wire, but you can use whatever you have that will fit inside the motor. Reassemble the motor with exception of the wheels and the bottom cover. Step 6) Attach the wires to the outermost halves of the metal strips; the innermost halves are connected to the wheels through the wipers. I used a silver epoxy for this. I chose silver epoxy for two reasons: 1) I didn’t want to risk melting the studs by soldering the wires to the metal strips, and 2) silver epoxy has a lower resistance than graphite epoxy. Step 7) Reinstall the wheels and make sure everything is running smoothly. This would also be a good time to lubricate the gears if you want to. Make sure you don’t get any lubricant on the electrical parts! Press the bottom cover onto what remains of the tabs, and you’re done! If you ever want to run the motor directly from track power, simply use a PCB adapter with a loopback connector or connect a LEGO wire (9V or light gray end of PF). This is what a PCB adapter looks like when installed on the motor. (I’ve updated the design since taking the previous photo.) And here is a connector leading up to the electronics (currently just a Power Functions battery box, soon to include a Bluetooth receiver) in my Horizon Express. The connector plugs into the PCB adapter. The PCB adapter is attached to the electrical studs on the motor. And the motor is pinned to the bottom plate of the locomotive. Now I can charge the battery in my train without taking it off the track, run it indefinitely on a mixed metal and plastic layout, and have non-line-of-sight control when I add the Bluetooth receiver. It really is the best of both worlds!
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My birthday is coming soon and I really want to buy some LEGO trains. But i can't spend 500 euros on LEGO and trains are expensive. I'm looking forward to have a Maersk train on my layout but i don't have the feeling that im happy with only 2 container wagons. But i can't afford 2 sets and i don't need/want an extra locomotive. And it doesn't have motors. But the design is 10 out of 10. A city train is cheaper for what its got but the details are a non. I could wait for a new creator expert train. I won't buy the Horizon Express just because i would but two of it and my layout i to small for it. So i can choose from this things: Maersk train, i would need to buy extra wagons and power functions Red lego city freight train (3677) Emerald night, i would need to buy extra coaches and power functions Where would you guys choose for?
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This is a CSX EMD 70 train that I designed one day. I chose the CSX one mostly because I liked the coloring. There are several other MOCs of this train around the internet, but they mostly use 9V, and I wanted to do one that ran on Power Functions. Thanks for looking at my MOC!
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[MOC] - Volvo A25d 4x4
deAraujo posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi everyone, I would like to present you my new creation, the Volvo A25d 4x4 remote controlled. The functions and characteristics are: -4x4 drivetrain powered by one XL motor; -Steering is achieved with a medium motor and one small linear actuator; -Tipper bed controlled by pneumatic and compressor by another medium motor; -Full articullated and big ground clearance. I am very happy with the way I found for the mechanism regarding the tipper bed in which it is only required one motor to operate simultaneously and synchronously the compressor and the pneumatic switch. Since there is a differential between the two, when the motor starts, the power goes to the easier side which is the pneumatic switch. When the switch reaches its end, then the power goes to the compressor. The same is true the other way around. This mechanism is realy helpfull when trying to reach dificult and/or distant places from the battery box because you have the advantage of the lenght of the pneumatic tubes. The link to all the images is here: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=558887 Meanwhile, I am editing a short video to show you these functions. I hope you like it. -
Hi guys, I have been trying to make some trains (generally diesel) and a problem that I have always found is powering. for a steam locomotive this is usually pretty simple because of the lack of articulation but wel, bogies are articulated and motors are mounted in the build itself. my question was, how does gearing react to this? and what is the handiest for compact solutions? vertical or horizontal? with vertical you get this: lego 6L train bogie by alterlegotechnic, on Flickr how could something like this be used in a locomotive? would the motor stick loosely in the chassis and what about a vertical motor like this (http://www.brickshel...16/cam06194.jpg) will there happen something in corners? like that the would go faster or some? and with Horizontal you get this Iowa Pacific SLRG 515/518 Mechanics by wildchicken_13, on Flickr how can gearing do this? i mean the rotating bogie, what happens to the gears in it? obviously could 2 M motors be needed for a small train (around 4 cars) or will it fail? I heard something about a V2 receiver? I have a V1 (I think) and that a normal one won't be able to give enough power to both? What is better? XL or M? when will a XL be needed? so in one sentence: vertical or horizontal? what happens to gearing and what is easier when using normal motors?
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Hi All, I'm starting to run some train layouts and wondered why idle/standby times are one the different battery boxes? 1: The Rechargeable box/8878: - what is the 'turn off' time? It seems to turn itself off after some time.. 15, 20 minutes? 2: Standby times expected? Anyone know how much power is used by the IR receiver or the SBrick if the box is left on? Both for the 8878 and the 8881 AA-Technic box? If I hook it up with a IR Receiver and leave it on, how many hours should I expect it to be idle if the motors is not running? Thanks in advance,
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[MOC] LEGO Brick Separator Grass Trimmer
dr_spock posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Do you have a young child who likes to help you cut the lawn? Do you have more brick separators than you know what to do with? Why not make child size toy weed whacker? LEGO Brick Separator Grass Trimmer by dr_spock_888, on Flickr Powered by one AAA battery box and XL motor. The brick separators are not sharp and will not cut a child's toes or fingers. Safety glasses should be worn. Created for Flickr's Separator Anxiety https://www.flickr.c...ps/2840637@N21/ -
I apologize if this has foung the forum before, I searched for "minds-i" and although a billion posts came up none that I could find had anything to do with what I am about to post. ANyways, I found this site and was astounded with the similarity of this company's product with TLG. How are they getting away with this? Has anyone on the forum any experience with these products? Good? Bad? Are they an alternative to Technic and PF? http://mindsirobotics.com/
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Hello All! This is one of my favorite Useless creations I have ever built As you can see it is a couch on steroids with tanks treads Top view Back view Bottom view Sort of side view Let me tell you some days you just need to take a break Or have a party Homers Favorite ride! Looks like Sariels Hamster has evil plans for this Video thank you for reading!
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I have started work on a new project 'for the kids':) We do not have enough space for a loop of track but I do have an excellent long wall with no windows. Tüblingen is an entirely fictional Swabian railway station near the Black Forrest in Germany. The subject was chosen because black steam engines with red frames were such an icon for so many years. The simple brief I am working to is: Create the trains I wanted when I was their age. It is all 6 wide power functions however it has a distinctly grey era feel to it, because, well, that's what I wanted so it must be what they want. I started with a 7828 train station because I still think it is the most fun station to play with, and added an island platform and foot bridge so that it can serve three lines. There is a 7838 freight shed but when I tried to mod it, it began to look more like Benny's luxury condo development than a piece of railway infrastructure. As such, the freight shed remains a work in progress. Enough from me, to the photos... Stock station with my power functions tribute to the famous 182. P5199154 by Canvas Rails, on Flickr The foot bridge in place. What was it with the 80s and no hand rails on stairs? by Canvas Rails, on Flickr With trains. by Canvas Rails, on Flickr The next update should be the goods shed and crane, then the engine shed and locomotive depot. I hope you like it. Rob
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[MOC]Tow Truck
legosamigos posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello Eurobrickers! Today I would like to show you a tow truck. Few months ago I`ve started to build my tow truck and finally I finished it, does it mean, I finished earlier, but I had to prepare a video. I wanted to use the in my tow truck, but unfortunately, I had to resign. The tow truck is full motorized and it has 3 lockers for equipment on each side, working fake 8 V engine and above all, the main functions of the tug, and so drive, steering, outriggers, winch, towing arm with folding and rotating fork and a tower with a sliding and lifting the boom. In the lockers there are some tools, spare wheel, 2 battery boxes, 2 fire extinguishers and arrows warning. I built also a Hot Rod, so will be 2 MOCes in one. And then I had to rebuild the tow truck, does it mean, I added a fairing and... ...I extended forks. before and after Dimensions: Length: 75 cm Width: 20 cm Height: 22 cm Max. heigt with with extended boom: 77 cm Weight: but I think it is heavier Face to face with 8285 set and compare with 8285 i MOD 9397 set Power Functions: drive - XL motor steering - M motor outriggers - M motor lifting boom - L motor extension boom - M motor towing arm - M motor wheel lift - M motor winch - M motor 4 x IR remote control 4 x IR receiver 2 x battery box 3 x extension wire (20 cm) Full Brickshelf gallery, Bricksafe gallery Sorry for a long video ;) -
Cheap Low Latency Power Functions Controller With Bluetooth
finhudson posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I've created an Arduino shield to control Lego Power Functions: An Arduino is a small, programmable microcontroller with lots of I/O (input/output) pins. It can be programmed from a computer, and it can interface with various devices. An Arduino shield is a circuit board that mounts onto the top of an Arduino to give it extra functionality. It is powered from a Power Functions plug, and has 3 channels that can be controlled via bluetooth, or programmed with the Arduino. See the kickstarter for more info: http://kck.st/1KqXFFV, and if you want one, please consider backing it. I will post some images of it in various models if you guys like it. What are your opinions on it, or do you have any improvements to suggest? -
Technic-powered Monorail Update - Faster Trains!
Brickthus posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
My new monorail, which began with Masao Hidaka's idea on LEGO Ideas, now has faster trains and a larger layout. - The trains now use PF Train motors, 2 per train, with belt drives. This is a much simpler transmission than the previous trains that used gears. - The train bogies are of Technic construction. - Powered by PF LiPo battery with PF IR Receiver control, S-Brick compatible. - Flashing lights in proportion to speed. - Junction with PF Servo Motor and rack system. - Speed is now up to 0.95m/s averaged over 10 laps of the 12-metre circuit. Full details and discussion here (and scroll down) Mark -
My new monorail, which began with Masao Hidaka's idea on LEGO Ideas, now has faster trains and a larger layout. - The trains now use PF Train motors, 2 per train. - Powered by PF LiPo battery with PF IR Receiver control. - Speed is now up to 0.95m/s averaged over 10 laps of the 12-metre circuit. Full details and discussion here (and scroll down) Mark
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What is the handiest way to power a 3 axle bogie? Im building a LKAB 6 axle locomotive and i don't know how i could power a 3 axle bogie with power functions. I have seen some designs with motors placed vertical above the bogie but i don't know how to attach something like that to a frame. And what would be the best motor to power it? Thank you for helping!
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I remember a topic from a few months ago about someone who managed to fit the PF battery box under the train base on a MOC of theirs. I've been trying to find it, using the search box, google, and just about every word combination I can think of, but I still can't find it. Can anyone help me? I'd like to use this on a MOC soon.
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Hey everyone! Been fiddling around in LDD for a few days now, and finally have something decent enough to post. I am working on this project with the intention of proposing it on Lego Ideas, however I would much rather know what you all think first!! This project started as an attempt to place PF components into a model of a Midland 4F. The end result imho looks... boxy and generic to say the least, but that may end up being a good thing...? The dimensions in studs are: 34 long by 10 1/3 tall by about 7 wide, not including the side rods. Front: Midland 4F(v3) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Back: Midland 4F(v3)2 by Nick Jackson, on Flickr The colored cables are: red= receiver, green= motor, yellow= lights. Below is a close-up of the frame setup. I REALLY like how this turned out, because: 1) it has space to mount an L motor! 2) I can change gear ratios from 5/3 (speed) to 3/5 (torque) manually! Midland 4F(v3)3 by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Please give me some feedback, all are appreciated!
