Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Power functions'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • New Member Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE STARTING!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic and Model Team
    • LEGO Mindstorms and Robotics
    • LEGO Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • LEGO Digital Designer and other digital tools
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?



Website URL








Special Tags 1

Special Tags 2

Special Tags 3

Special Tags 4

Special Tags 5

Special Tags 6

Country flag

Found 349 results

  1. I've created an Arduino shield to control Lego Power Functions: An Arduino is a small, programmable microcontroller with lots of I/O (input/output) pins. It can be programmed from a computer, and it can interface with various devices. An Arduino shield is a circuit board that mounts onto the top of an Arduino to give it extra functionality. It is powered from a Power Functions plug, and has 3 channels that can be controlled via bluetooth, or programmed with the Arduino. See the kickstarter for more info:, and if you want one, please consider backing it. I will post some images of it in various models if you guys like it. What are your opinions on it, or do you have any improvements to suggest?
  2. My new monorail, which began with Masao Hidaka's idea on LEGO Ideas, now has faster trains and a larger layout. - The trains now use PF Train motors, 2 per train, with belt drives. This is a much simpler transmission than the previous trains that used gears. - The train bogies are of Technic construction. - Powered by PF LiPo battery with PF IR Receiver control, S-Brick compatible. - Flashing lights in proportion to speed. - Junction with PF Servo Motor and rack system. - Speed is now up to 0.95m/s averaged over 10 laps of the 12-metre circuit. Full details and discussion here (and scroll down) Mark
  3. My new monorail, which began with Masao Hidaka's idea on LEGO Ideas, now has faster trains and a larger layout. - The trains now use PF Train motors, 2 per train. - Powered by PF LiPo battery with PF IR Receiver control. - Speed is now up to 0.95m/s averaged over 10 laps of the 12-metre circuit. Full details and discussion here (and scroll down) Mark

    3 axle bogie powering

    What is the handiest way to power a 3 axle bogie? Im building a LKAB 6 axle locomotive and i don't know how i could power a 3 axle bogie with power functions. I have seen some designs with motors placed vertical above the bogie but i don't know how to attach something like that to a frame. And what would be the best motor to power it? Thank you for helping!
  5. Lego Dino 500

    How to fit battery box?

    I remember a topic from a few months ago about someone who managed to fit the PF battery box under the train base on a MOC of theirs. I've been trying to find it, using the search box, google, and just about every word combination I can think of, but I still can't find it. Can anyone help me? I'd like to use this on a MOC soon.
  6. M_slug357

    Technically a Train

    Hey everyone! Been fiddling around in LDD for a few days now, and finally have something decent enough to post. I am working on this project with the intention of proposing it on Lego Ideas, however I would much rather know what you all think first!! This project started as an attempt to place PF components into a model of a Midland 4F. The end result imho looks... boxy and generic to say the least, but that may end up being a good thing...? The dimensions in studs are: 34 long by 10 1/3 tall by about 7 wide, not including the side rods. Front: Midland 4F(v3) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Back: Midland 4F(v3)2 by Nick Jackson, on Flickr The colored cables are: red= receiver, green= motor, yellow= lights. Below is a close-up of the frame setup. I REALLY like how this turned out, because: 1) it has space to mount an L motor! 2) I can change gear ratios from 5/3 (speed) to 3/5 (torque) manually! Midland 4F(v3)3 by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Please give me some feedback, all are appreciated!
  7. I have motorized my 7939-inspired MOC and added a new engine inspired by early Box-cab diesels. This is my first couple of motorized MOCs ever, and I'm not sure I did it quite right. I won't be building them, but if anyone wants to take a crack at them be my guest. Here is the front view. The yellow engine is also build able in red or black, while the blue engine is also build able in white. The cab on the yellow engine opens up, but the blue loco is inaccessible at this time. It may be possible to fix this, but it would require a roof redesign and I don't feel like redoing the engine (again) right now... Here we see the innards of the engines: The triple A Battery box and IR receiver. There are two 2x2 holes in the frame of the engine for a PF cord to the motor. No lights are included, but it may be possible to make them fit inside if you really wanted to. The roof sections that are hidden in this picture are removable, and are held on by four studs each. LDD file: As I said above, these are my first motorized models, so please tell me if I did something wrong. Also, Comments, Questions, & Complains are always welcome!
  8. NickLafreniere

    [MOC] LEGO City Subway Train Car

    Hello Eurobricks community, I would like to share my newest design that I've been working on for many months and now it is finally complete. Please take a moment to read the description and see all the photos for all the details of the set! As train enthusiasts, I would love to hear your opinions and criticisms of my design. If you have any questions, I will be glad to provide more information.
  9. Hi, Forget 41999, just look at this beauty build by Madoca! The best middle scale I have ever see!:) Perfect! Sorry Madoca, if you wanna post it by yourself...cant wait to share my emotions:))) instruction is here:
  10. 18 Volt Drill Master LEGO conversion [WIP] BY Boxerlego Introduction Hi, This is my latest LEGO custom motor project but its not the only one I'm working on I just bought this 18v drill today for the intention of modifying it for LEGO use. My previous drill motor project I only modify an old 18V drill motor to fit with LEGO but this time around I've a new 18V drill motor with a fresh 18 volt battery pack and I'm going to try to fit with LEGO. The nice thing about this is I got that power drill with an 18v battery pack along with charger for a great deal of $16, the original sale price was $35. My first 18v drill motor project had tons of problems to over come and for a long time at first the motor was not even able to be power with LEGO 9V PF system. This was a major problem for me and ultimately I didn't quite know enough on how to drive a DC motors with electronics. So I moved on to my next motor project which was a stepper motor and was more efficient that it could be driven with the LEGO V1 PF system. This was a good step up but it wasn't quite as powerful as the drill motor can be. It didn't take long for me to figure out how to drive a motor with electronics, there are lots of good YouTube videos out there that got me started but ultimately how to properly drive this 18v drill motor with LEGO was still far from perfect. My first motor driver had several mistakes however LEGO was able to still make it work but still those problems needed to be understood and corrected so I can make improvements and make it work better. I will spare all the details here and I will just say that in 2014 I learned tons about how to properly drive motors and more efficiently. Which brings me to my other motor project the upgraded XL motor I'm working on, which is reaching the final stages and that is building the motor driver. This motor driver here for the XL motor MOD is absolutely the best one I made yet. You wont believe what I was able to with this motor driver or maybe you will . I will just say that this motor driver here I made works from the regular 7-9 volts the LEGO Battery box can supply but however the XL motor mod has a switching DC power supply that can step up the 7-9 volts from the battery box to 12 volts for this XL motor mod to work off of. Overall this topic will mainly be about the 18v drill motor LEGO conversion so to start it off I want to show a video time line of some my previous projects with my first drill motor. Video Time Line Think this is either going to work or not please feel free to comment on the matter. I hope everything works out well
  11. Hey guys, I have an update on the data loss I experienced recently. I have lost all my youtube video file archives, several important frames for my upcoming stop-motion animation, all documents of my book I’ve been working on, all videos for a Technic set review, a lot of pictures, and countless more. The bad news being said, I do have some good news (though not outweighing the bad). I am at a fork in the road considering my LEGO collection, and I really need your advice! The 45560 Lego® Mindstorms® Ev3 Expansion Set comes with 853 pieces (i.e. beams, pins, wheels and tires, gears and steering racks, panels, speciality parts). As for the other option, for $96 I can get two IR Receivers (V1), two XL Motors, one PF IR Remote-Control, and onePF Servo Motor. The spare parts included are as follows: four 3 Snap Gearbloks (Element ID: 4610378 / Design ID: 92909), two Cardan Cups with Cross Axle 2M (Element ID: 4610374 / Design ID: 92906), two 16z Gears (Element ID: 4640536 / Design ID: 94925), and six Slide Shoe Round 2×2 (Element ID: 4278412 / Design ID: 54196). Share your experiences, has anything similar ever happened to you guys? Also, which do you suggest I get? Thank you!
  12. Now for something silly. I was planning a stairs GBC module for our upcoming LUG event season. It got morphed into a stress reliever or stress creator depending on how you look at whack a mole. YouTube Video: (I needed something quick for my Jar Jar photo a day project.) Day 111 of 365: Whack a Jar Jar Binks by dr_spock_888, on Flickr
  13. Hi all, Long time lurker, first time posting. I came out of the dark ages (15yrs +) last year, saw all the amazing trains I'd missed (damn Maersk and EN) and decided to try my hand at a MOC - The new(?) pieces on offer these days are amazing! The following is all made up btw, it's loosely based on real engines and a bit of the LEGO Lone range train thrown in "The Persian Blue Express is one of the fastest in it's class, with almost unmatched speed for it's pulling power. Shown here is the model T version, which was used to carry the King and Queen through the Great Western plains. Following it's retirement in 1910, it has since made a comeback in 2015 with passengers from the city wanting to experience the regalia and nostalgia of the past." - Longer story is also WIP WIP, CC welcome please. I have a black clips and gold clips version. I'm learning towards the gold, although I haven't got any of those in my collection, but may well be brick-linked tonight! I've managed to build one side in bricks, have ordered all the blue bits I'm missing. I've also order enough parts to make an Emerald night carriage, so I'll hock that up when the parts arrive, before designing my own. Black Clips: Gold Version: Front: Cab: LDraw version, sometimes easier to see: And finally in real life! I built it in brick first, and then went to LDD, where I made some changes along the way..... I like the LDD file better than the brick built version now! The PF are in the tender, and it works well going round the track. (not with those Blue pegs though, annoying friction) - The T.C.R.R is from the Lone Ranger, I've yet to print my own stickers! Can anyone tell me how long the Engine of the EN is please? Mine is exactly two straight pieces long. Thanks Dylan
  14. Commander Wolf

    [MOC] PRR A6B #3907

    Shortly after jtlan's CNJ1000, I set out to make a small PF boxcab of my own! I think like many of the earliest diesel electric locomotives in the US, the A6 had its beginnings in the Kaufman Act of the 1920s, which banned steam locomotives from operating in New York City. PRR built three A6 class two-axled switchers (3905-3907), one of which was repowered and reclassified A6B (3907), all of which operated in various New York yards between the late 1920s and late 1950s. Here is a picture of the lone A6B with some B1s up for scrap in 1961: This projext actually started out as one of those B1s, but along the way we found engineering drawings for the A6/B, and I was able to cram the drivetrain I'd designed for the B1 into the smaller body of the A6B. The unit is 24 studs long between couplers and has about 400 parts. The power comes from an AAA battery pack driving the old 9v geared motor. Not surprisingly the most difficult part of this model was figuring out how to position the battery pack, the geared motor, and that darn PF receiver inside the scaled dimensions of the loco. There weren't *that* many potential combinations of fit, but I had to go through a couple. In the end it's actually pretty tight given that the face of the receiver is already at the same height as the top of the curved slopes that make up the sides of the roof. The transmission is as simple as I could possibly make it: just 8-tooth gears meshed into 24-tooth crowns. You could actually speed this up by using 12 and 20 tooth bevels, but I prefer to go slower and have more pulling power - I want to be able to use the most worn out AAAs floating around and still go somewhere. Consequently the loco is *really* slow, but I'll call that a feature. Otherwise, the build is pretty straightforward, but I did try to make the top easily removable. My only real beef with this implementation is that the L drivers are slightly too big and the 1x1 tanks slightly too small. The receiption is also not amazing due to the positioning of the receiver, but it could be worse. There's a flap in the roof to access the power button. I have no idea what the big tank in the back is for. Someone enlighten me. More pics Bonus material #1: I tried my hand at "weathering" the unit by changing some of the brick colors, but I couldn't really get a combination with which I was happy: Bonus material #2: LDD of the B1 that I didn't finish. Pantographs are a pain. Have a nice day!
  15. My first project on the LEGO Ideas site is an Inductive Charging System for Power Functions LiPo batteries for Trains, Technic and Mindstorms. The project concept enables a train LiPo battery to be charged without manual intervention. The train stops over the charging coil. The charging coil would sit between the rails, powered from the standard charger. The receiving coil would be held between the bogies of a wagon, plugged into the charging port of the LiPo battery. The device would be compatible with use for Technic, Mindstorms and other themes, so that a robot could return to a charging station and charge itself. It might be possible for the charging and receiving coils to be two of the same device, minimising cost. This would bring LEGO products up to date with the charging of mobile phones and tablets. It may be a key technology to enable more development of Power Functions trains because it would make it easier to run them at shows. Please add your support to the project. We have 90 supporters so far, which is good for a technological project (as opposed to a populist project). Let's see if we can reach over 100 supporters, perhaps 150 in April! Even if the LEGO Ideas route is not the best route, your support adds weight to the case for pursuing another route, such as third party production or crowd funding. Thanks, Mark
  16. Hello, I'm Tim. I'm new to EB. I had an idea to make working warning lights with only non rare lego bricks. So i came up with this idea: I hope you liked it, Tim
  17. Hi all, Apologies if something like this has been done already, but I couldn't find anything quite like it. I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread to share ideas about the best ways of squeezing Power Functions into small spaces. I occasionaly come across images where I think 'oh, that's a good way of fitting that in' but usually I've stumbled across it by chance and the reference is never there when I need it. So if you have any images of your own MOCs, or somebody elses (try to give credit of course), share them here. As a start, I found this video by a youtube user names Zanthera quite useful in the past, but tenders can make things a lot easier for steam loco builders: Anyone know of any really clever tank engines or small shunters?
  18. I have Light Gray Train, Track 4.5V Switch Point (x878cx2 or x879cx2) or Light Gray Train, Track 12V Switch Point (73696 or 73697) I also have the Change-Over Unit/Light Gray Electric, Train 12V Manual Switch Motor (5079 or 73112) Do you have already control one with a Power Function motor? Thank you Frederic
  19. Hi all, I own some push-along trains, 4.5v trains, 12v trains and 9v trains and recently extended my collection with the 7938 power functions train. Unfortunately, I have had nothing but trouble with it so far. Things I ran into so far have been: - Unlike the manual claims, the power functions battery box does not work with rechargeable batteries, only with non-rechargeable batteries. The green light does not burn when switching on the battery box with rechargable batteries inside. I am using the same rechargeable batteries in other devices and they work fine there. So broken batteries are not the problem. - The (new alkaline) non-rechargeable batteries are drained within 10 minutes of running. The motor does get reasonably warm during that time but not exactly hot. Which means I'd have to spend a fortune on batteries to keep it running. - There is a large amount of wheel-spin all the time and the train makes a lot of noise when that happens. It just doesn't run as good as the old 9v system. I suspect both my battery box and motor are broken. The train is brand new and I have a lot of experience building Lego trains since decades and I am sure I have build the train correctly. I am not considering to buy the Lego rechargeable battery box 8878 as it is too expensive. I am running the train on the old style metal 9v tracks. What I have tried so far is call the Lego service line and explain the issues. They are very kind and helpful and will ship a new battery box. I doubt however if that would solve all the issues. Has anybody ran into these problems before? And any thoughts of what might be the issue?
  20. Here is my new MOC, it's my second super car and I think it's a lot better than my first. I'm not sure about the top speed, but it's reasonably fast since the XL motors drive 36t gears, that go to 12t gears and then the differential. It's 99% done, might make some small aesthetic changes if you guys suggest any. Specs: -2 XL Motors for RWD with differential. -1 Servo Motor for steering. -V8 Engine. -Full independent suspension, 2 hard shocks per wheel. -Working steering wheel. -Only one seat, so the interior is quite empty and dull . -Manually openable doors. Pics: Sorry if the pictures aren't very good quality, was using my phone. Some of them got a bit weird with the lighting. Video coming soon. Any feedback is welcome !
  21. Hello everyone, I am DamonMM2000, and I mainly build LEGO MINDSTORMS robots! I also build Technic creations with Power Functions too. I am excited to join the Eurobricks forum and look forward to meeting you guys I currently have the highest MindScore at the official Mindstorms Gallery and have had three of my robots featured on the official Mindstorms website. If you would like to know more about me or check out my work, please visit: Feature site Mindstorms and Technic: MindTechnic blog My blog: DamonMM2000 custom Mindstorms creations My Mindstorms Community profile: DamonMM2000 (MindScore: 29000+) My YouTube channel: DamonMM2000's LEGO Mindstorms Robots New Community and gallery website: MindTechnicLOG
  22. I have Light Gray Train, Track 4.5V Switch Point (x878cx2 or x879cx2) or Light Gray Train, Track 12V Switch Point (73696 or 73697) I also have the Change-Over Unit/Light Gray Electric, Train 12V Manual Switch Motor (5079 or 73112) Do you have already control one with a Power Function motor? Thank you Frederic
  23. Hello all I just thought of an interesting concept for technic supercars, that could help compare them properly. As we all know, the real supercar world is a buzz about power to weight ratio figures and such. I know you would probably think this is pointless for a technic supercar, because you would expect its power to weight figure to be so low but, it's still a neat way of comparing them. Because some technic supercars are heavy but powerful and others are the opposite. So I have researched a formula to work out power to weight ratio for real cars, and thus used this for technic models, and have also worked out the power and torque of every modern technic motor: Xl motor, L motor, m motor and possibly RC motors. Here are some power to weight figures from 2 of my motorized supercars: My Lamborghini Huracan *1.3kg *0.004hp = 3.08hp per ton My Mclaren P1 *2.8kg *0.008hp = 2.86hp per ton. As you can see. eventhough my Mclaren has 2 Xl motors and my Lamborghini only has 1, the Lamborghini edges out a better power to weight ratio because its less than half the weight of the Mclaren. Which explains why my Lamborghini is almost twice as fast as the Mclaren (apart from the fact that the Lamborghini has a 3 speed gearbox, 4wd and better gearing, and the Mclaren just has 2 Xl motors powered to a differential.) Thank you for viewing this topic, if you have any questions feel free to ask. If you have any motorized mocs that you would like me to work out their power to weight ratio, just tell me their weight in kilograms, and how many motors it's power by e.g. 1 Xl motor or 2 L motors. I'm not sure about RC motors but if your moc is powered by RC motors I will try my best to work it out. LeocornoProductions
  24. A few month's ago I've build Batman's Bat Hunter. It's not an official Batman vehicle Last week I've made some pictures of it (I am/was very busy with other LEGO mocs) I've created this MOC in 1,5 day. Short description of the moc: Batman use the Bat Hunter for keeping Gotham City safe. The Bat Hunter is a fast vehicle for patrolling around Gotham City. When riding the Bat Hunter, the wings are moving. The Bat Hunter is remote controlled by one PF medium motor, and for steering one PF medium motor. Some pictures: 01_Bat_Hunter by LegoMathijs, on Flickr I've used the IR receiver as cabin. 05_Bat_Hunter_backside_view by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Backside of the Bat Hunter 04_Bat_Hunter by LegoMathijs, on Flickr 02_Bat_Hunter by LegoMathijs, on Flickr More pictures at my Flickr photostream:
  25. This is what I managed to build today in cca 5 hours. Its a very efficient, lightweight yet powerfull forklift. All functions are motorized with M motors. Features: - Front wheel drive with differential - Pendular rear axle with ackermann steering geometry - Lifting mechanism with double chains for max lift force of over 500 grams - Fork tilting mechanism I will upload better pictures and a video tomorrow