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Found 325 results

  1. Hi there, I'm a "new" builder with not a lot of experience in building MOCs. I started this project to sort of get the feel of building a super car, since I've never really built one before. As you can see, it isn't the prettiest of cars, It's a little too boxy and there are a bit too many stacked liftarms. I focused more on the functions then the looks, I'm sure my next super car will look a lot better. Specs: - 2 L motors for RWD with differential. - 1 Servo motor for steering. - 4-speed manual gearbox (Sariel's Enzo gearbox). - Front and rear independent suspension. - Working V8 This was a great experiment to see how well I would do, and I think it's ok for my first try . Also, I learned that it is definitely better to use XL motors for big vehicles, this car doesn't have enough strength to run at full speed on the 3rd and 4th gears. Pictures: V8, receiver and battery box Easy to take off hood Not very detailed interior Underside I'm gonna try and make a video soon. Thanks for reading, any suggestions or comments are welcome!
  2. Crazywater

    PF IR Interference

    Have any of you ever had issues with signal interference when controlling your trains? Today I had 60051 and 60052 set up in a classroom environment. I had checked everything at home and all worked fine. (Worked fine at home afterwards also.) Batteries were fully charged (Lego rechargeable) and new batteries in the controller. But during the session signals to the trains were either not getting through or were very significantly delayed. Other (possibly) relevant information: There were a lot of laptops in the room (not close to the trains) but all were off or at least closed and therefore in sleep mode. There are about 6 double fluorescent tube lights on the ceiling and there was wifi in the room. Any suggestions as to probable causes and potential solutions greatly appreciated.
  3. Teo LEGO Technic

    CAT D9 Bulldozer MOC

    Hello everybody, My first MOC to be posted on Eurobricks is the CAT D9 bulldozer. My goal with this MOC was to make it look as good as I could while still working as well as I should like. It has these functions, all controlled by power functions: -blade powered by 1 x M-motor -ripper powered by 1 x M-motor -treads powered by 2 x L-motor, 1 on each side for skid-stearing -two pairs of LED lights with hidden switch Pictures of the model: Here is the link for a video that demonstrates all functions. If someone could tell me how to embed it, I would be very grateful, as I could not figure it out
  4. For a while, I've been interested in trying to squeeze PF into a small british style steam locomotive. I'd played around with several ideas in my head but couldn't for some time land on a design that looked good. Eventually, I found an image of an Andrew Barclay 0-4-0ST shunter that had slightly more squared-off tanks than the usual short saddle tank locos. I decided that was the route to go down and set about putting a plan together, and here is the result: There's not really very much to say about it. It's somewhat shorter in appearance than the prototype, party because that seems to have become my style, but practically because, on such a short wheelbase, there is a limit to the overhang you can have at the front and back for cornering purposes. I plan on refining it, of course, so any comments are more than welcome. EDIT: Short video of it working and a self-indulgent snap of my steam locos built so far: Power Functions Steam Shunter by Srbandrews, on Flickr
  5. Hi, after I discovered the Hyster 32-12, which TheItalianBrick is currently building, I thought I had to modify the Heavy Duty Forklift, which was originally created by Dalafik. The main objective for the adjustable fork rake was to use only parts from Set 42009, so everyone who build the "Heavy Duty Forklift" would have automatically the parts he would need for this modifikation. Another objective was to create it so simple, that it could easily replace the original fork rake made by Dalafik. Two mini linear actuators are used to adjust the fork rake. Here are some pictures for you: More pictures are in the album: Adjustable fork rake for MOC-2298: Heavy Duty Forklift At the moment I try to create building instructions with MLCAD.
  6. Legoboy22

    Horizon Express

    Hello lego train enthusiasts, I finally got the Horizon Express. The reason is that I was born in france and the TGV is my favorite of all time so far and would like to know when it will be discontinued because on lego.com it says sold out. I also would like it if you could share some modifications that you put on your horizon express trains. Thx
  7. Legoboy22

    Power Functions vs. 9 volt

    I would like to know what everyone thinks about power functions and 9 volt systems. What is better PF or 9V. Or are they the same. Thx
  8. Hi all. I downloaded the 3D model and built a modified RC version of Lego 42005 shown in this link http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=88490 I used an L-motor (88003) and IR receiver (8884), but I had to use alternative parts for the other 3 power function parts as I don't have them: I used Battery pack 8881 (instead of 8878) - for powering the whole thing I used Medium motor (8883) instead of servo motor (88004) - for controlling the wheel direction I used Remote control 8879 (instead of 8885) What happens is that if I connect the units directly to the battery pack, the model drives fine (the L-motor), but the wheels don't turn very nicely at all (unless there's very little resistance, as when I hold the model in the air). So I guess using a regular motor instead of a dedicated servo one isn't a good choice. The real problem however is when I connect the thing using the RC; the IR receiver unit sounds a high pitched noise and the motors don't spin at all, unless I hold the car in the air (and that also is a hit and miss. especially for turning the wheels). Can anyone please explain what I'm doing wrong? Is the remote control faulty (it's came from a train set, dunno if this means anything), is the battery pack too weak (I used freshly charged batteries), is a regular motor inadequate to simply turn an axle if the turning range is limited (the wheels are already all the way to the right/left)? Thanks for helping out!
  9. CrispyBassist

    PF IR Receiver Question

    I'm wondering if the PF IR receiver can "see" signals through transparent pieces, particularly trans-clear. I presume it does, but I want to make sure. I'd check on my own, but all my PF parts are at school in Illinois and I'm home in New York for the holidays. I'm hoping it works, otherwise I've got some major design changes to make on an upcoming project. Anyways, has anyone tried this or can someone test it quickly? I'd greatly appreciate it! Apologies if this is a repeat thread, I searched for the topic prior to posting. -Matt
  10. I have just completed the modifications to incorporate the suggestions for my 6 wide power functions shunter. Please let me know what you think and I welcome suggestions for how it can be improved. Thank you all for your support on https://ideas.lego.com/projects/82031 I regret we have only 100 supporters now so I don't forsee this getting up as the 50th anniversary of Lego Trains train. Fortunately James Mathis has what I think is an even better idea https://ideas.lego.com/projects/86744 so if you haven't supported this one I can highly recommend his. The biggest change is the ability to now turn the battery box off and on by pressing the front of the forward dome. I have some pictures on Flickr that show how it works. https://www.flickr.c...57649279163680/
  11. Legoboy22

    Flexible tracks

    I would like to know what everyone thinks about the relatively new flexible train tracks. Do you think it should replace straight tracks from passenger train 7938? Thx
  12. Legoboy22

    Advice for track layout

    Hello I would like some advice on my layout to make it compact and use a fair amount of track. I have 160 tracks. A lot of it is 4.5 volt. The rest is power functions. 20 PF straights, 56 4.5 volt straights. 30 PF curves, 60 4.5. I have 2 switches of each type. Thx.
  13. If you do, what will it have to look like? Should it be modular and per cylinder, or per engine type (inline, flat, V)? Should it come in at least three block sizes or three power levels? If you don't, why not? Will a need for a sophisticated transmission render it pretty useless, or will cost come into play? Is it gonna be impractical to even make one, even with the promise of SO MUCH POWAH? Keep it clean, guys, I'm just genuinely curious with what you think about such a part.
  14. It's here! Or, rather, over there, at LEGO® IDEAS. Thanks for checking this train project out. If you like it, I'd appreciate your support vote at the IDEAS project page. If you don't like it, or might like it, let me know in the comments what you would have modified or added. with gratitude, James https://ideas.lego.com/projects/85295 Custom Winter Village™ LEGO® train project, arriving soon on track LEGO IDEAS™. Can you smell the coal, oil, steam, and pine? Can you feel the crisp chill in the air against the warm aroma of spiced cider and nutmeg atop a mug of nog? This project awaits approval, after which your support would be greatly appreciated to enable potential production and begin revenue service. Check back in about one week for additional "Winter Village Express" train project details and get your ticket to travel back in time on a winter holiday as this project goes "live" on LEGO IDEAS. "Tickets, please." ;-) Thanks for checking it out. sincerely, James Mathis
  15. Hi everybody! What could I make with two rc-controlled l-motors? Thanks! P.S. Why do I have to press keyboard buttons more than once for eurobricks to recognize it? (Otherwise I get this: hi everybody!whatcouldi ak with worctrlldl-mor?)
  16. Who doesn't love train sets? I certainly do. But since the introduction of the Power Functions system for motorization, with all its benefits, also came with the need to house a battery box. In passenger train sets in particular, this is a bit of a downside to the system. My Light Rail design solves this elegantly by placing the battery box underneath the train, leaving almost the full length of both carriages available for passengers. See high def pictures here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjWsg6Ek You can also support me on CUUSOO: http://lego.cuusoo.com/ideas/view/61944
  17. Hi all, i got a Horizon Express-10233 as a present recently, and i would like to know more about the power functions as rather new to this. Is it necessary for me to get, 8878-1: Rechargeable Battery Box and 8887-1: Transformer 10V DC. Or is there a way that i can DIY my own rechargable battery box, as the one sold my Lego is expensive, and the transformer looks like any ordinary charger, i believe i can get one outside at a reasonable price as compared to the one sold by Lego. Would be glad if someone could help me with my queries. Many thanks!
  18. Yet another modification of the 9398, a 4x4 crawler that I just got as a birthday present just a week or two ago (as of 03/10/2014). So mod after mod it ended up becoming a somewhat MOC. This has been widened by 2 studs, has hightened ground clearance and has been given a new body. Compared to the original 9398 it has a much lower COG and better clearance, and climbs better too! Differentials are fitted with rubber, to act as much as a limited slip diff. VIDEO: Old stuff More old stuff
  19. Boxerlego

    [WIP] Buggy

    Here is my most recent project I'm building. I've built the chassis of this Buggy from instructions made by Madoca 1977. The difference here is that I built this to use the AA battery box instead of the Lipo battery. In the future I plan to add one or two of my upgraded XL motor in here but right now the L motors are looking and handling great. More is to come feel free to comment...
  20. ALCO

    9v or PF or both?

    Hello all! New here to Eurobricks and the whole AFOL Trains community in general. I have noticed that there there are essentially two different train systems the 9v (runs on metal rails using a DC current from a transformer like a normal model railroad) and then Power Functions. I unfortunately don't have any of either to experiment with but I was just thinking would it be possible to merge the two and create a kind of DCC system? (Digital Command Control - current standard for powering and controlling model railroads) What I mean is this, you have the PF system that uses a battery pack, IR or RF receiver to power either a "train motor" or another motor that uses Technick gears etc, to power the wheels. Could not one remove the actual motor from the 9v train motor housing and use the metal wheels as contacts to pass the current through from the metal track to your PF control system? This way you would not have to break your layout into Power Districts and you would be able to run multiple trains on the same line under completely different control. Each train would be controlled by it's unique PF controller yet pulling the same current from the rails. Essentially moving the battery pack from a pack of batteries in the locomotive or tender and placing it in the rails where you no longer have to worry about charging or bringing extra batteries. I haven't been around long enough to see of you guys are doing this yet or not, but just thought I'd throw it out there. As I stated, I unfortunately don't have either system (or trains) to experiment with but will as soon as I have the coin. I recently downloaded LDD and built an MOC that I designed to run in either system or both. I've always been an FOL and trains but never have been able to bring the two together until I downloaded LDD. Let me know what you think of combining both 9v and PF and I'd love some feedback on my MOC in the link below. I went for detail so it turned out to be about to scale so wider and I'm sure taller than the standard size, though still on the Lego standard gauge track. Cheers! https://www.flickr.com/photos/128636628@N08/
  21. Yo! I dont really post many WIP-s so here it goes. The rear axle uses 9L links as leaf springs while the front uses a classic spring. I plan to use RC motor to make this thing as ridiculous as in real life
  22. cgarison

    MOC: WIP-Ghost Train

    Well, it has taken several months of planning and building to get to the point where I could run my Ghost Train MOC around PennLUG's "Snailtopia" layout at Philly Brickfest. I have to send out a special thanks to KC a.k.a. Kreative Snail in the Lego Community for letting me participate in this weekends events. First off, these pictures are of what I call the "functional beta" or version 0.75 of the Ghost Train as I know my design has a huge number of flaws and this weekend brought out many of those including the lack of power from using only 1 Power Functions train motor. So here are the pictures of my MOC as it set on the layout earlier today. And of course, trains photos are meaningless unless I they have some videos of the train in motion so here is the Ghost Train in action. So now I have about 8 weeks to improve the train and put it back into action for what should be the official version at PhilCon.
  23. I really liked the look of 42005 Monster Truck, but wanted to motorize it. I found Splat's motorized version, which helped kick me into gear and order the necessary parts. Once all the parts arrived from several BrickLink orders, I started thinking: why not try motorizing the model without following Splat's build? Later, I'll tear my design apart and try his build. So here is the result of my tinkering. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr I've been able to retain much of the look (and build) of the official LEGO model. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr The battery box is easily removable and slips into the empty space at the back of the truck for use. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr It is possible to charge the battery without removing it from the vehicle. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr A BricksTer Open Source Bluetooth receiver prototype is mounted to the frame using technic pin/axles and half bushings. I found I needed the bushings because the holes are sized for studs, which have an ever so slightly larger diameter than technic axles. Motorized LEGO 42005 by niaconis, on Flickr A servo motor mounted in the front steers the front wheels while an L motor mounted at the back drives the rear wheels. I wish I could have geared down the drivetrain more, but I found I currently have no 48-tooth gears. Motorized LEGO 42005 Steering Demo by niaconis, on Flickr In the animated gif, you can roughly see how it is steered with an Android phone. And finally, I present a short video showing the monster truck driving around in a local park, controlled by the new proof of concept accelerometer input for the BricksTer Android app (which you can also see in the gif). Thanks for reading this far! I appreciate critique, comments, and suggestions!
  24. Zerobricks

    Small Offroad Race

    Here's a clip of a race between two very different offroad machines Chettah 4x4 and Fox 8x8x8. Also what do you think of the navigation bar made using annotations?
  25. THIS TOPIC got me an idea to make a mechanical servo motor using normal power functions. Because BS is down a video will have to do for now: