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Found 349 results

  1. Hi everyone and welcome to my newest MOC. This time around, it's a motorized alternative model for the 8048 set "Nitro Buggy". I have that set and i know it's kinda old now (around 12 years), being released back in 2009, but i liked it when it came out and still do, i find the original model quite good, but don't understand why Lego went from a Buggy to a tractor as a B-Model, when this set as so much more potential. Some months ago i made another motorized C-Model from that set, the "Nitro Hot Rod" an old looking vehicle to differentiate it from the original model, but now i wanted to do the reverse and build something modern-looking, because... i dunno, why not :D even older sets deserve some love. Now, about the vehicle itself: aside from the 5 power functions elements used to motorize and control it, all parts are from the 8048 set, and very few will remain unused. Even if you don't have that set, the parts are very common and present on many other sets, so you probably can easily build this one. It's a pickup truck kind of vehicle. It has independent front suspension; return-to-center steering using one servo motor; one l-motor powers the two rear wheels; features some details like a front and rear bumpers, headlights, side mirrors, driver cabin, and a cargo bed (non-functional, as i didn't have enough parts left). It's longer than the original model and has great ground clearance. Overall, i'm happy with the final result. One thing i want to mention, as i did it on purpose, is the fact that i made it very easy to change the gears that connect the l-motor to the rear wheels, you just need to take out the rear left wheel and a bush, and you can easily swap gears and change the gear ratio if you want. I did this because a 1:1 ratio is better to play inside home, but if you go outside, maybe you want to decrease top speed and get more torque, so a 1.667:1 ratio using gears available on the set is recommended. See the picture below for reference. The video at the end of the page also has segments with the two gear combinations. For anyone interested, building instructions are available at rebrickable. Have fun!
  2. Sebeus I

    [MOC] Volvo FH

    I finally did it, I've built a Volvo. It took me little more than a month to design, collect parts and build it, which is pretty short for my standards, I usually take (or loose) more time to fully complete a MOC of these proportions. The scale is, roughly, 1/20 and it has some functional features. Using LEGO power functions the vehicle can drive, steer, lift its 2nd drive axle, flash its beacon lights and operate the hooklift system. To be perfectly honest, not all of its features work the way I wanted them to work. The chassis was a bit small to incorporate all of these functions. I may design a new chassis at some point (more of that below) For me the highlight of this model is the cab really, getting the proportions of an FH right was a challenge, I had to make many compromises, choose the lesser of two evils. Of all truck brands, the Volvo just has the most complex design to replicate in the brick. But that is of course because a Volvo is the most pretty truck of them all after all. As I am employed at Volvo Trucks I simply had to build Volvo’s flagship. When Covid is over, I’ll drive it around the office landscape :). You may have noticed, the cab is not a square box, I spent a lot of time figuring out how to best approach the silhouette of the FH cab. It gets slightly more narrow higher up. The chassis is packed, I had to fit the battery box and two receivers in the cab, which is one of the reasons why there's no interior. Now, I'm sure some of you will most certainly have some suspicions about the feasibility of my hooklift system here... And they would be right! To be honest, the hooklift doesn't work all that well, lifting a container is a bit too much. It was only after I had completed the chassis that I learned about some sort of quality problem with those linear actuators I've used. But I think the fact that the very short leverage to rotate the hooklift may also have something to do with it. That of course was a consequence of the limited stroke of these actuators. This calls for the new longer actuators! ... However, that means I'll have to completely redesign the chassis... I have a couple of WIP pictures that I may share later. I hope you like it!
  3. Hello everyone, I have purchased a lego power functions led light on Bricklink, to light up my 42043 MB Arocs. On real life trucks you often see that the rear lights are ‘double’. I modified the rear bumper of the Arocs to create this ‘double’ lights. But, the Lego LED light has only one light bulb for every side, so it will not shine trough two holes of a technic liftarm. Anyone any ideas how to achieve this?
  4. Hi everyone, I've finished trying to RC my 42043 and it seems that the PF L motor has issues providing sufficient power to drive the set? I obtained instructions from the creator of this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpP_05uxKqs&t=22s&ab_channel=PawełWojnarowski) and also checked PPUNG DADDY's 42043 RC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8easq7ueIo&ab_channel=PPUNGDADDY(뿡대디)-LEGOTECHNICRC), both used an L motor with no problems. Here's a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/J8P13WLPzN8. As you can see in the video, the motor loses power after driving for some time, eventually being unable to drive at all. The problem is worsened when I try to drive and steer at the same time, it's almost impossible to drive and turn. I have tried swapping the tyres around, changing batteries, trying a V1 and V2 IR receiver, switching positions of the motor and servo cables, and using a new L motor. But the problem still persists. Here's a photo of the L motor: Could it be because of excess friction introduced in the rear axles during construction? Because I noticed when I lifted up the rear axles, the motor spins the wheels at its standard rpm, BUT only 1 wheel on each axle spins, the other is stationary. Then when the wheels contact the floor, the motor suddenly seems to struggle with driving the thing. Hence I was thinking could it be that I built the differential too "tightly"? Appreciate any help from the technic experts in this forum, thanks in advance!
  5. Hello Eurobricker's I just wanted to show you one of my latest builds. Its an RC semi truck that has the ROOF based on a Scania Crew-cab! Love it or hate it here it is. Features Differential in the rear. Opening doors Spacious Cabin Detailed Interior Full RC L Motor and an M motor Working 5th wheel Easily removable battery box. Love it or hate it there it is. Please give me some feedback, I haven't made instructions yet as I don't know if anyone will be interested in building it!
  6. Hey guys, some time ago, I have coded an app for controlling Lego PF using the IR diode of your Android phone. It didn't really work well, but since this time I have learned a lot about programming and made a new app for you. It is a BETA version, but I hope that there will be no issues with it. Before installing this app please google whether your phone has an IR blaster, this app won't work on devices without an IR blaster (physically not possible). The channelswitch is not working right now, but I will add this feature soon. I would be happy about some feedback from you! APK: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1R9LNj8mhx34Bkn0A7t8wN3RFn3g6LDQC/view?usp=sharing (do not wonder this app doesn't have an icon yet! When you have an idea for it, let me know!) Screenshots:
  7. So I bought an rcx 2.0 and have some power functions extension cables that can also convert between PF and 9v. If I would connect PF to an rcx would it work?
  8. Hi folks, I made a motorization for the good old big Batman Tumbler, if youre interested, seems to be the only one out there, the instructions and details are here. full front suspension with moving swing arms (those big things in the front that hold the wheels, like in the movies) Power Functions servo motor steering system, nicely hidden so you won't see it through the windows or in the front what's more powerful than an L-engine and faster than a XL-engine? Right, two L-engines! This motorisation retrofit is fun! Differential for the back axle, with those big wheels you will need it all gears run stable, no cracking suspension for the back axis using springs of the same size as those pseudo springs from the original set a retractable roof (no separate roof parts like in the original) a few other small modifications to make it look a bit closer to the original and make it more sturdy not to lose parts while working very stable frame
  9. Does anyone know of an app or application that works with the old ev3 Mindstorms and technic power functions?
  10. Zerobricks

    BuWizz Motor

    You can find a sneak preview od the 3D printed sample on our IG: https://www.instagram.com/p/CLAKIt3B0PG/ Performance is around 10% faster RPM and torque compared to the 5292 motor (cca 20% more power). The polyfuse protection will be increased from 0,9 A to around 1,35 A - still testing the balance between performance and longetivity. Improved attachment possiblities, everything fits as it should in the studless building system The final version color will be between LGB and DBG. It will come with a 30 cm long PF cable plug, so it's compatible with BuWizz 2.0 and PF. Preorder here: https://buwizz.com/shop/buwizz-motor/ More info when it becomes available.
  11. I got the Ecto for christmas and I felt the urge to squeeze in some remote controlled Motors. The new Powered Up have just the thing (although they are badly documented) One month after christmas I had it up and running. Tell me what you think. • quasi invisible • minimal invasive - all gadgets work • Battery replacement with no dissambling • light and sound kit still fits in • Lego POWERED UP Bluetooth Remote Control • no discontinued Power Functions • complete Instructions on rebrickable I made my first video about that: For this motorization I used LEGO's Powered Up Large Technic Motor for steering. That thing is just made to be used for the steering. It can act like a servo, because it has an internal position sensor. It is slim and dark bluish gray so it replaces that kardan drive below the front seat perfectly. Aditionally I didn't want to take it appart every time I change the batteries, so you can reacht it from the bottom.
  12. Hello EB! I'd like to humbly show this remote control (PF) winter expedition vehicle (MOC). Featuring 4 independently driven tracks with a unique steering system. More explanation below and in my YouTube video. It has many issues that I'm not willing to spend more time to fix, but I've learned a lot from the process, which will help improve my future MOCs. If I was to start from scratch here's what I would change: Put motors closer to driven axles Split drivelines into either front/back or single motor per tread less complicated steering system Use a different type of suspension instead of pendular raise the height of the driven sprocket instead of extending driveline with gears reduce weight with panels vs lifttarms (I didn't have any at the time of building) Never use an Adder again, or if I really have to then use the old-style 24t differentials Work more on the cabin/exterior design A sizeable portion of the issues stemmed from the weight, which is something I didn't expect! I ordered some parts to allow me to finish the frame, and added design elements in the meantime. The design elements were pretty much the difference between being-able-to-carry-its-own-weight and not. The MOC is already disassembled, but I'll be happy to hear feedback and suggestions!
  13. RoxYourBlox

    [MOC] Galaxy Cliff Lighthouse

    My latest creation, Galaxy Cliff Lighthouse, reflects a desire to create an autobiographical MOC to share joy and pain non-verbally. It was inspired aesthetically by Split Rock Lighthouse on Lake Superior, thematically by Voyage of Life (1842) by Thomas Cole, and structurally by Obelisk Overpass, Boulder Dam, plus an early draft of River Wheel (featuring pirate ship gondolas rather than lumber). In fact, the 96 x 96-stud plot vacated by the dismantled River Wheel fed my drive to combine structures absent from my Lego city—a bridge, dam, and Ferris wheel. As you may imagine from the photos, a hilltop lighthouse teeters over an ocean, beneath a collection of galaxies spiraling through the nighttime sky, while a shooting star passes overhead. The light and dark figurative sailboats represent positive and negative memories, while the logarithmic spiral of galaxies in the sky is reflected in the earth below by the failed attempt of humankind to overcome the nature of life itself. Stats 26400 pieces 75 lbs (34 kg) Footprint: 96 or 128 square studs Volume: 156 x 156 x 176 studs Timeline Phase 1 Idea conceived: January 2020 Digital design: 8 weeks total Wheel: 2 weeks Lighthouse: 2 weeks Bridge: 2 days Cliff: 4 weeks Shipping: 13 weeks Building: 2 weeks Phase 2 Digital design revision: 1 week Shipping: 4* weeks Building: ongoing *Multiple international part orders in October never did arrive and had to be repurchased domestically. For more, follow me on flickr, instagram, or ideas.
  14. Robust working 1:12 RC model of the 6x6 rocker-bogie mobility system used in Mars rovers Perseverance and Curiosity... Tons of play value. Works well over most neighborhood surfaces and terrains, but sometimes gets stuck in loose sand. What you put on top is up to you. NB: The NASA rovers are 6x6x4 platforms, with 6 wheels, all 6 driven, and the 4 corner wheels steered. At 1:12 scale, steering individual wheels with LEGO motors is out of the question. So this model is necessarily a 6x6x0 platform — but one with reasonably effective skid steering. Several years ago, made a pretty faithful working 1:12 model of Curiosity with more emphasis on visual realism than on mobility system performance. The current model vastly outperforms the old one... Purist alert: SBrick RC receiver, non-LEGO elastics used to suppress wheel spread.
  15. Hello. I have some sad news. Lego is retiring the power functions system. I need your guyses help to sign my petition by January 1st! we need 100 signatures. here is the link for the petition! here is the petition.
  16. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! Chevrolet K10 Silverado 1985 Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/chevrolet-k10-silverado-1985-update Trailer: - Platform lift - Working ramps - Retractable front wheel
  17. For the last 5+ years I have been running a train under my Christmas tree, powered by a LiIon PF battery box and double motors. I recently answered a question on Bricks.stackexchange.com where someone asked for advice on which power system to buy, and the answer I had to give surprised me so much, that I went ahead and changed my own strategy immediately as well. I am now the proud owner of an oval (16+ curves, 12 straights) with a L+R set of points of 9V track, including transformer, wall wart and power-to-rail connectors. Total cost were around $120, however, this is after deducting the going BL price for other train components that came with my purchase. If I didn't exclude those, my total would have been $190. (All US dollars). This prompted me to do a quick compare on the costs of a fully working train oval for under a Christmas tree. The Oval consists of 16 curves and at least 8 straights. The cost of whatever Christmas train you choose to run is not included: Powered UP: Battery Box: $50 at LEGO S@H, $35+shipping at BrickLink (only 1 US Seller) Motor: $14 at LEGO S@H Wheels & Axles: ~$3+shipping on BrickLink for 2 axles and 4 wheels Decorative sides: ~$2.50+shipping on BrickLink Tracks: 1 Track Pack (8 straights, 4 curves): $20 at LEGO S@H, $16 on sale occasionally at other stores; 12x Curved tracks: $6+shipping at BL or: Buy set 60197 ($160 at LEGO S@H, occasionally on sale for less at other stores (e.g. currently $128 at Target) plus 4x Straight track ($7+Shipping on BL) - used ones run about the same cost as the promo prices. Depending on how you count, this is $100-$160+tax for this setup, and you need to keep a mobile phone around (or pony up another $15 for the remote control), have to keep the connection alive, and will have to replace/recharge batteries every 2-3hrs. Power Functions: Battery Box: $13 on LEGO S@H ($15+shipping on BL), or the LiIon pack which has no US-based sellers currently neither on EBay nor BL, but should go for $100-$150 if available. IR Receiver: $10+shipping for a used one on BrickLink Decorative sides: ~$2.50+shipping on BrickLink Tracks: 1 Track Pack (8 straights, 4 curves): $20 at LEGO S@H, $16 on sale occasionally at other stores; 12x Curved tracks: $6+shipping at BL or: Buy a retired Power Function set (used) such as 60051, which with patience can be bought used, complete on EBay for $125-$150. You'd need extra straight track though (see Powered Up), which runs ~$7+Shipping. Again, depending on how you count, this is a $70-$150 purchase. Likely the cheapest option currently, until prices for Power Functions start skyrocketing once all components have officially retired. You get 2-3hrs run time, and unless you add $100 to your total for a LiIon battery box, you will need to buy rechargeable batteries and a charger (or cycle through alkaline AAA's like a madman). 9V: Get a used but working copy of 4561 ($100-$150 on EBay) Buy some extra straight track: 4*$5+shipping on BL (let's call it $25) Total: $125-$175 Suddenly the convenience of never having to change batteries or recharge with a $150 9V purchase sounds pretty attractive, doesn't it? Quite fascinating, for a product that has been discontinued for almost 15 years.
  18. nikolyakov

    [MOC] - Power Plant 4

    Hi, I'm not sci-fi guy but I made a moc for our local lug's project. I hope you like it.
  19. Hello everyone!! I hope I'm right in making this a new topic - and that it should be in train tech and not in licensed. I've been working for a while on my own Hogwarts Express MOC. I know I'm not the first person to do this and I bow before many people who've done superb jobs - but here's my take on it! I've linked the two YouTube videos I've made about the locomotive and the carriage so feel free to have a watch. Or if not, there are a few photos which show what I've made. I'm very happy to answer any questions, as well as pointing people in the direction of my inspirations if they're looking for some themselves. Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr Lego Hogwarts Express Moc by Will Norris, on Flickr
  20. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! But this time I have prepared something special! Meet the Chevrolet K10 Silverado!!! Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/chevrolet-k10-silverado-1985 For the first time I used the construction of the chassis separately from the body, that is, the body can be easily removed and any other body can be built on the chassis.
  21. I would like to introduce my own control Solution: >>My Radio BLEuS << ( Bluetooth Low Energy useful System) Powered by Arduino Nano 33 BLE Sense, 4 x Power funtions port - 9V/1.5 A, each (optional updatable by that: Adafruit DRV8871 DC Motor Driver Breakout Board - 3.6A Max) --> Keep in mind the technical requirements to provide ~ 130W by using max, current simulanoiusly , at all ports ! Not realy needed for an ordinary Brickset Car. In A MOC i would recomend; Battery, ESC, and BL Motors taken from "real" RC Motor Sports section. power supply by PF Bat. box or internal 9V/ 1000 mAh Accu Internal Akku has USB charge connector. Control options: Infrared, by using PF IR Transmitter RC Transmitter(up to 4 channel) supporting, "AFHSD2A" LEGO Powered Up App LEGO Control+ Profiles Because of S-Brick published their protocol , it can be used with their mobile app , too. Because of, Brickcontroller 2 app works with any PU Hub, that is emulated by using profiles here, you can use Brickcontroller 2 app, also. Additions: SD Kart Slot for storing profiles , used by PU or Control+,...... Programming via USB Port, or JTAG connetor. Supported Frameworks: Arduino, MBED,Nordic SDK Note about Arduino Frameworks: Works with ArduinoBLE, as well as Adafruit BLUfruit Libraries by using Adafruit Bootloader. It is my new development base for next projects to come ;-) Greetings Marc
  22. Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! But today I present you this epic American truck!!! Length 58cm, Width 23.5 cm, Height 34cm , Weight 4kg Description: -2 XL motor for drive -L motor for steering and steering wheel -1M Motor for cab lift -2 Small power supply -Detailed interior -Led headlights -Doors and hatches open -Semi-automatic coupling Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/freightliner-fla-9664 Enjoy your viewing! Rate, comment! Thanks!)
  23. Small rc car based off a design I came up in LDD 2 years ago (link, now with (in my eyes) slightly improved looks. Not a top-speed record breaker, a powerful tug-of-war winner vs a car, but a fun little thing to drive around. Originally everything came together off the fact that I wanted to drive the space wheels with a motor, everything else just came around. 2x m-motors w/ 1:2.084 final gear ratio and uses tank steering. To archieve small size a PF receiver with a Ni-MH 8'4V 20R8H format battery (the typical square 9v ones), which is quite underpowered (the cell might be dead too as it has been just lying around for a year or so). Probably can be BuWizz-ed with some drivetrain and body mods. I guess could also use one of those train controller blocks from PU/C+ (?) line if you've only got that system. lxf-file: download Video and a few pictures (same as from video slideshow) below. Mandatory belly shot: Cya!
  24. HONDA ACTY 1983 Dragster The inspiration for creating such an unusual hybrid was the car of a blogger from YouTube) Description: -1 Buggy motor -Servo motor for steering and steering wheel -Small power supply -Detailed interior All the photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/honda-acty-1983 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage
  25. I'm designing an RC technic car (C8 Corvette) in Stud.io that I want to race against some other people. How many L-motors will I need to get the car up to a reasonable speed? (I'd like it to go around 5-10 mph, basically anything faster than a slow crawl). I have 2 L-motors built into the car right now, but I have a feeling they won't be powerful enough. I'm planning on using a BuWizz battery pack for power and bluetooth control. The car has around 1200 parts, so it probably weighs 3 pounds or so. I built a four speed sequential transmission into the car as well. For a car of this weight, should I use 4 L-motors?