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Found 368 results

  1. MichalPL

    House Power Functions

    House Power Functions GALLERY Technical:: -Dimensions: Length: 80s Width: 56s -Gate + Garage 1x M motor 1x XL motor 1x IR Receiver 1x Battery Box Main Street Grill Car The rest of the pictures Movie: I invite you to comment :)
  2. Hi! I made a few crawlers until now, and I wanted to create something new, with more fun. So I decided to add a lot of power in a lightweight chassis to be the crawler fast, but also capable. My goal was to make the most simple and effective Lego rock crawler: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=538615 I used a flexible frame as suspension, this helps to keep it lighter, there is no need for a lot of parts to create a 4 link or other suspension. As you can see below in the video, this "suspension" also works well on terrain. Has LiPo battery, and V2 IR receiver. There are two receivers, two XL motor is connected to each, there are 4 XL motors in total. After the motor's output, a 24:12 gearing (deceleration) is built in, so the wheel spins about 85 rpm, which allows to reach 1,7 km/h. The wheelbase-width ratio is similar to real RC crawlers. I tried to add a big ground clearance, there was no problem with it. It's an advantage of this flexible chassis, there is nothing under the middle of the vehicle. The wheels are RC4WD 1,9" Rock Crusher XT's, their weight helps a lot of the stabilization of the vehicle. The XL motors are placed low, they also help to have a better center of gravity. I added a simple body, with more crawler-like look, than in my previous crawlers. Steering: One M motor steers the two XL motors in the front axle. These motors are connected to mini turntables to be more stable and robust. The steering ratio is 5:1. http://www.brickshel...16_1280x960.jpg I used strong pins from 8842 to make stronger connections in the axles. All the motors and the main parts are connected together with these: Weight: 1105 g. I don't know yet the number of pieces, but it can be about 200. A 720p video: Most interesting parts: 01:11 ; 01:37 ; 03:16 What do you think?
  3. After toying with the idea of customising the 8879 speed controller for a while, I'd like to hear what others have been thinking too. After reading here; http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=51632&hl=+power%20+functions%20+proportional%20+control#entry1325243 I finally understand why the speed control remote behaves the way it does. In the past I have put together some code on an arduino to independently control each channel of a receiver. If I can find the vid I'll post it. I'm thinking it would be possible to reconfigure (replace) the internals of the controller and keep the external appearance exactly the same. The main functions I want to achieve: - Not do it if someone else already has. I've seen complete 3rd party but not a LEGO retro fit. - Send absolute speed control rather than relative. Jog wheels on the remote will have a mechanical upper and lower limit. - Implement a coast then brake for the stop button. i.e when you press the stop button it floats the output, and when you release it the break command is sent. In practice a short press will apply the break, but a long press will allow the motor to Coast down as much as you want. - Stop sending each time you switch channels. Automatically start sending again after the dial has been returned to 0. - power down when both stop buttons are pressed for 3 seconds. - have a train compatibility mode selectable via switch inside (or maybe button sequence). In train mode, the commands do not time out. If you dial in a negative speed the commanded speed will slowly reduce, similarly for positive speed. The higher the dial setting the faster it will ramp up or down. This way you won't need a continuously rotatable dial. Changing channels stops the output until the dial is put back to 0. Any other suggestions? Anybody know if it's already been done in this kind of way? Cheers.
  4. Over the last couple of weeks I have been designing a Lego 16mm Scale Narrow Gauge Locomotive based on Roundhouse Engineering Live Steam Locomotive 'Lady Anne', the Lego version is 5 Inches Wide, 6 inches high and 13 inches long, the narrow gauge locomotive is powered by Lego Power Functions XL Motor, Battery Box and Receiver which the Locomotive Body fits over The locomotive body can be separated from the locomotive chassis to allow access to the Lego Power Function Battery Box to turn the power on or change the batteries when needed or to adjust or fix the gearing if something goes wrong. To set the Big Ben Bricks XL train wheels exactly at 32mm Gauge I had to put 3 Nylon Washers between the Lego Technic bricks and the Big Ben Bricks XL train wheels, I used 18 nylon washers, the washers were brought from Modelfixings. The information below shows the dimensions of the nylon washers I used. Thread Size MF Ref Inside Diameter (mm) Outside Diameter (mm) Thickness (mm) M5 MF-NW05 5.3 11 1.0 The Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotive model is not finished, the coal bunkers on the tanks need to be finished, the lids to the water tanks need to be added, the cylinders and the connecting rod to the coupling rod need to be added, the rear coal bunker needs to be added, plus other details like pipes, outlining and naming plate, working front and rear lamps. I may be adding Brandbright Centre Buffer Coupling which will be permantly fixed to the locomotive by drill a hole in the spot where the current buffer, this is so I can try to pull some 16mm coaching stock with my Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotiv. A back view of the Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotive body, the holes in the back are for Lego Technic Pin with Stop Bush (Part 32054) which bolts the locomotive body to the locomotive chassis. A front view of the Lego 16mm scale Lady Anne narrow gauge locomotive body, the Dish 8 x 8 Inverted (Radar) has to be removed allowing me access to Technic Pin with Stop Bush (Part 32054) which bolts the locomotive body to the locomotive chassis. A top view of Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive showing the boiler and the unfinished tank tops (coal bunker and water tanks lids to be added). A another top view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive, the cab roof is temporary as the bricks I will be using have not arrived, and the back small round brick is where the whistle will be once I have the rights color bricks. A view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the Lego Power Functions XL Motor, Battery Box and Receiver. Another view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing how wide the Locomotive is compared to the 0 gauge track. Side view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the red coupling rod (Lego Technic Liftarm, 15 L). A back view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the red buffer plate with the single buffer which will be replaced by a Brandbright Central coupling buffer (90 % of 16mm narrow gauge locomotives and rolling stock have a single central buffer with a hook for a 3 length chain to be attached). Another back view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the rear buffer, Lego Power Functions XL Motor and the wire channel (used to keep the wire tidy and away from the gearing and allowing easy fitting of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive body. A front view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis A view of the bottom of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the wheels correctly set at 32mm gauge A closeup view of the bottom of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the coupling rods and six Technic Gear - 24 Tooth which allow me to get the coupling rods working ( might be replaced by Big Ben Bricks Medium Train Blind Driver). A close up view of the bottom of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis, showing some of nylon washers I got from modelfixings, the washers allow me to set the wheels to 32mm gauge. One of the nylon washers I use. close up view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the front end of the locomotive chassis with the two Lego Technic Pins with Stop Bush (Part 32054) are in a Lego 1x4 Technic brick which is the same height as the Lego Technic brick in the front of the locomotive body. close up view of the Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive chassis showing the read end of the locomotive chassis with the two Lego Technic Pins with Stop Bush (Part 32054) are in two Lego 1x1 Technic brick which is the same height as the Lego Technic bricks in the rear of the locomotive body. Youtube Video of Lego 16mm Scale Lady Anne Narrow Gauge Locomotive Running Link
  5. Hi, over the weekend, I started work on building my new Lego LNER 4472 Flying Scotsman Steam Locomotive, as the final order from Bricklink arrived on Saturday, it took me a couple of hours to build the model, I had already built the chassis couple of weeks before The Lego LNER 4472 Flying Scotsman model is 19.5 inches long, 2.5 inches wide, just under 4 inches high, the front and rear lights on the Lego LNER 4472 Flying Scotsman work, two bricks behind the rear lights had to be modified to allow the power function lights to be used, the large train wheels are XL Big Ben Wheels The model just needs some extra details like pipes, lining, and lettering to be added, the wheels have to be dye green and other details to finish the model. I have taken new photos of my Lego LNER 4472 Flying Scotsman Steam Locomotive, including some other parts Couple of images showing closeup of the wheel hubs A Image of couple of modified Lego 1x2 Panels with Lego white headlights bricks A image showing the power function lights fitting into the modified Lego 1x2 Panels with Lego white headlights bricks a couple of images of the Power Functions Battery (AAA type) in the tender, show the wires packed around the battery box, Couple of Images showing the wire connections between the locomotive and tender A couple of Images showing the tender including the Lego Coal Pile (Lego 1x1 Black Plates) A couple of images showing the rear and front lights working, the second image is darker as the front lights don't show up well in bright light when on A image of the Flying Scotsman Tender with its wheel arrangement
  6. Here is my latest MOC: I tried to cram as many features as possible into a car that's still only 17 studs wide (20 if you count the mirrors). They are: full independent suspension steering (including rotating steering wheel) driving (including fake engine) 2-speed windshield wipers convertible top easily removable batterybox The drivetrain lacks a differential, 2 L-motors are used for drive instead. The servo motor does the steering and 2 M-motors operate the windshield wipers and the roof. I plan to create building instructions in the future as I did for my other MOCs. For now, there is only this video. EDIT: The building instructions are now available from http://rebrickable.c...act-convertible EDIT 2: This MOC is now on Lego Ideas. Please visit the project page and support it!
  7. Greetings Train Tech, Here is my model of No. 2096, the first Franco-Crosti locomotive. The idea behind the Franco-Crosti boiler system was to use the exhaust gases from the locomotive to preheat the water, thereby recapturing some energy that would otherwise be lost and improving efficiency. Although the concept originated in Italy, No. 2096 was actually built in Tubize, Belgium in 1932. As you can see, it's absurdly large. The wheel arrangement is 0-6-2 + 2-4-2-4-2 + 2-6-0 (UIC: C1'+1'B1B1'+1'C). It's a quadruplex! This project initially began as a joking suggestion for a way to use up all my spare large drivers. I decided to do some preliminary scaling for fun, then downloaded LDD to try to do some mockups … the entire thing quickly spiraled out of control (I wound up buying new wheels, defeating the point of the original suggestion). The end result clocks in at 80 studs magnet-to-magnet, at roughly 1:48 scale (155mm/plate, or 15in/stud). I got all my reference information from here. As all the photos were black and white, I had to take my best guess with regards to the paint scheme; I wound up choosing the Belgian Railways livery used at the time (if my research is correct). I had been somewhat uncertain how well the green would turn out, but I'm quite pleased with the result. As a nice bonus, it matches 10015 Passenger Wagon quite nicely. 2096 is my first foray into Power Functions -powered locomotives. In the past, I've always pushed my steamers using some rolling stock with 9V motors, but I was worried about the stability of such a long locomotive when being pushed. Initially I had been planning to have the locomotive powered by four of the old 9V motors (one for each set of drivers), but quickly realized it was going to be too difficult to fit the motors, receiver, and wiring inside the locomotive. Luckily, I came across a good solution for mounting two PF Medium motors inside the center unit, so I switched to those (which also eliminated the need for PF converter cables). As was the prototype, the model is nearly rotationally symmetrical, and runs equally well in both directions. It drives through switches and any sort of curve arrangement, although I haven't yet tested against flex track… Full Brickshelf gallery here (once moderation finishes). Thanks for reading!
  8. Hello, Several month's ago, Ive created this crawler drill, but haven't post it on Eurobricks until now The crawler is an heavy machine with masive drill power to deal with the roughest terrain. Two chrome drills, two mining lasers and a radar are the equipment for this vehicle to research the dangerous dark caves. Information about the crawler: The crawler is motorized by two Power Functions M motors The drills rotate when driving Two working lights on front side Removable battery box for easy replacement of the batteries Pictures: Crawler Drill by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Drills and lights. Drills working when moving the vehicle by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Crawler Drill by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Easy assembling battery box by LegoMathijs, on Flickr Chassis by LegoMathijs, on Flickr More pictures on Flickr: https://www.flickr.c...157636283392954 Hope you like it
  9. About Model Motivators: Hello from a new high Tech startup - Model motivators. We are working to bring a new Bluetooth enabled, Lego compatible control system to you so you can control multiple power functions simply and easily from your Bluetooth enabled mobile device. We are at the stage of having a working prototype but would like to know from real Lego fans what is important in a product. We have produced a survey at the following link and if you are interested in helping us define our product please click through and fill in our survey. https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/NLBQMLF About me: I have being playing with Lego for more than 45 years and have a large lego collection including the original (large) cog wheels from the 1970s plus some of original lego bricks minted in 1960. My logo is of a Tank built earlier this year to test our prototype and having 7 power functions motors. Controlling the tracks the turret and the gun.
  10. I have a few older 12v motors which I'm thinking of running via a custom PF cable. In principle this is not a problem - assuming PWM at 9v then it means the 12v motor will never reach it's maximum RPM. However I'm wondering what would be the effect of supplying the IR receiver with a higher voltage (say 11v lipo). 1. Does the IR receiver still limit the maximum PWM output to 9v? 2. Is the IR receiver likely to blow or have a shorter lifetime at these slightly higher voltages? Note all my IR receivers are the v1 type - I know that v2 would allow more power to be drawn from the batteries - and hence might handle 12v motors better. But since I don't expect to power two 12v motors from one battery pack I'm not too worried Thanks for any hints or tips
  11. Hey there, I've got a question about the pole reverser, as I do not own any myself and haven't been able to find this info anywhere online... 1. I assume there is an "off" position (Center?) Yes? No? 2. Does it require 45º of rotation to operate the switch using an axle through the middle?
  12. Hi guys Just thought I'd share some pics of my br 08 Piccadilly livery with power functions with lights crammed in as well
  13. This is a moc I've created. I sort of just threw it together, so it's not based off of any vehicle in particular. It's got the Tatra suspension, and crawls over uneven terrain just wonderfully. When I finished the front I noticed it sort of looks like an older range rover, didn't do that on purpose though. Hope you enjoy the pictures. Hopefully I can put together a video in the next week or so.....
  14. Greetings everybody, it's me again and today I'd like to show you my new creation. It is a 1:10 scaled coupe, equipped with five PF motors (2 XL & 3 M), remotely controlled and with three pairs of LEDs. The functions of the vehicle are quite simple or, being exact, it only has one, main function: it can ride with the help of two XL-motors. The M-motor (equipped with return-to-center system) is used for steering. The other two M-motors are used to control a relative small 4-speed gearbox. Each motor controls two speeds and has the same return-to-center system as the one for steering. The gearbox doesn't work perfectly all the time, that's because the elastic bands are not and will never be a good substitution for Servo motor. :) However, approximately 97-98% of gear changing are successful. The gear ratios are 1:3, 1:2, 1:1 and 2:1. The rear part of the car looks quite strange and futuristic: There are two white stripes along the whole car's body: Side view: Let's look at the bottom of the car. You can see the four of five motors and the gearbox: The doors can be easily opened. However, they stay closed during the ride thanks to the simple fixation mechanism. The video will come later, because it's raining now and I cannot test the car outside. :) Thanks for watching!
  15. Hello all. I have seen plenty of places on the Internet where people have hotwired their LEGO battery boxes and hooked them up to a laboratory power supply. I have also seen plenty of places where people have converted an old PC power supply into a cheap laboratory power supply. However, I've not seen anywhere on the Internet where people have done both. So I did it myself. Details here http://www.lugnet.com/~2801/PowerSupply Questions, comments, queries or concerns?
  16. Hello all I was just wondering if I could connect an RC unit with 2 RC motors using 2 power functions extension wires?
  17. I believe I have a faulty Power Functions Servo Motor. Sometimes it just doesn't work, regerdless which batterybox or IR receiver I connect it to. When I wiggle the cable a little, especially near the connection to the motor, it starts to work again. I think there's a bad connection between the cable and the motor or (invisible) damage inside the cable. What should I do? Do I have a guarantee? I have hardly ever used the motor. Should I contact Lego by letter/email/phonecall? Or should I go back to the store? I don't have the receipt of my 9398 anymore. Thanks for any suggestions.
  18. ScotNick

    WIP - LMS

    Hey folks! Well, some years ago I designed a model of an LMS (London Midland and Scottish Railway) Ivatt Class 2MT 2-6-2T engine designed in LDD. So one week ago I changed the livery to the one that was really used and reduced bricks (it just has about 580 for that detailed model). Furthermore I tried to incorporate Power Functions. There is enough room for them, the PF Small motor will definitely fit, but I'll try it with the PF Large motor first. Here is the design from LDD: Here is a pic where you see the PF components: I have built some of the model in real bricks, I just don't have all the parts yet( at least in the right color), though I nearly finished one side: The trailing wheels all clear nicely in curves. I also designed a model of the BR 9F 'Evening Star' which could be operated with Power Functions or 9v in the tender, maybe I will try my hands on that one sometime: I hope you enjoyed it, I will update the thread when it's more finished.
  19. Hi everybody, Here is my light remote controlled buggy motor powered trophy truck:) More photos and description in my blog. Http://Brickgarage.blogspot.com English translation of description by google here: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=ru&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fbrickgarage.blogspot.ru%2F2013%2F06%2Fsunset.html
  20. Hi! I know that these "I don't know what to build" topics are kind of annoying, but I have no idea how to build an r/c car with functional steering. I want to have it be 2wd. Thanks!
  21. After many delay, now I present my new big MOC, It was in LFW in Skaerbaek. Since I was a child I has been a fan of big trucks, and specially of American style trucks(in Spain is strange to see trucks with long noise). For this MOC I have chosen one of the most charismatic and representative models of these trucks: a Peterbilt 379. Also I have endeavored to put a version of CAT C15 engine (I'm also a fan of the brand CAT). This MOC is made in a 1/10.2 scale, giving a final size of 31 studs width, 99 length and 40 high. Here you can see some pictures taken in Skaerbaek where you can appreciate the size, there are: this Pete, the Crow's Vampire GT(scale 1:10 too...), the Nathaniel's Supercar and my Veyron. The total weight is 5.5kg, and has been one of the main problems I've had. Front axles deforms and look like the wheels has huge camber angle. This is a esthetic defect which I hate, but it has not solution if I want to keep all functions and therefore the weight of the truck. I will try to fix it comming soon. The electric system is huge, and it has: - 2 AA PF battery boxes - 4 PF IR recievers - 5 PF XL motors - 5 PF M motors - 1 PF switch - 3 PF large extension wires (50cm) Probably, the most “wanted” picture for Lego Technic followers: CAT C15 Engine Under the hood you can find a replica of the CAT C15 engine, with its 6-cylinder in line. The engine doesn't have the sides covered to appreciate that the cylinders are located in the same order as the real engine, with 120 ° intervals between them. Getting those 120 º between cylinders was very complicated but I thought it was necessary to be more faithful to the original. The engine also has a motor M to rotate it, which is connected directly to a battery. Between the engine and the M motor there are a differential, which is also connected to the drive motors, so that the engine is always at idling, but when you starts the drive motors the C15 accelerate adding both speeds. The rotation speeds grow up from 250 rpm up to 700 rpm aprox. Pneumatic system After almost 10 years without using pneumatics in any of my MOCs, I decided this was the perfect model to use it. The pneumatic system the truck runs along the complete truck, mainly controlling the suspension and brakes on all axles. The pneumatic system is composed mainly: - 2 Small pumps (6L) - 1 Large pump (for emergencies). - 2 Air tanks - 7 Small cylinders - 8 Large cylinders - 7 Valves - 1 Manometer (LEGO part n.64065) - 22 T connectors - And about 5 meters of pneumatic tube in 3 colors: blue, black and light gray. All pneumatic control is located on the right side of the truck inside the fuel tank. Also in the cab, between the seats, there is a manometer to measure the system pressure, it is very useful to know how much air have you at any moment. Axles As the real truck it has live axles. Both rear axles are driven without differential between them. In each axle between the differential and the wheel the axls has gear ratio 12/20 to reduce necessary torque in the differential and protect bevel gears. The front axles uses the same steering system as the real Pete, of course the steering wheel turns too, also it turns 4 laps, again as the real Pete - Suspension The suspension is fully pneumatic in all axes, and it doesn't use any spring to help. The front axle has 4 big cylinder and each rear axle 2. - Brakes The brakes as the real truck are drum brakes, there are a drum on each side of each axle, all of them controlled by a small pneumatic cylinder. The control of these pistons are made through two valves, one for the front axle and one for the rear axles. For normal braking the brakes operate all at the same time, but only while you are keeping push the brakes botton. But you have also parking brake mode, if you push the brakes botton in the opposite direction only rear brakes works, and they will not disabled if you stop pressing botton. To remove the parking brake you only need use the normal brakes. - Auxiliar output Behind the cabin there is an auxiliar pneumatic output(blue connector), where you can connect anything you want. The valve to activate it is located before the rear-right wheel Transmission The transmission is the biggest mechanism of the truck, and it has an approximate size of 25x7x45 studs. It uses 4 XL motors for drive. The transmission has 18+2R speeds(this is true, is not a joke...). The transmission is divided in two parts: the main gearbox with 9+R speeds with automatic clutch(this gearbox is based on the LR Defender), and a transfer case with 2 speed (H and L) Joint both gearboxes the result is this: RL-1:0.261 RH-1:0.29 1L (1) - 1:0.324 1H (2) - 1:0.36 2L (3) - 1:0.432 2H (4) - 1:0.48 3L (5) - 1:0.54 3H (6) - 1:0.6 4L (7) - 1:0.72 4H (8) - 1:0.8 5L (9) - 1:0.9 5H (10) - 1:1 6L (11) - 1:1.2 6H (12) - 1:1.33 7L (13) - 1: 1.5 7H (14) - 1:1.67 8L (15) - 1:2 8H (16) - 1:2.22 9L (17) - 1:2.5 9H (18) - 1:2.78 Auxiliar electric output As I said before, the truck has an auxiliar pneumatic output, but also it has an auxiliar electric output too. There you can connect anything you want, and control it with the remote controller. To avoid leaving this connetor without any use I have added a fifth wheel(trailer connector). - Fifth wheel Note: right now I don't have intention to do a complete trailer. It is very simple and effective. The kingpin diameter is 1 stud. Finally as always, you can see a complete video with all features showed: For more detalied information visit sheepo.es I hope you like it!!
  22. An order from Lego came in today, and I equipped my 42006 with 8293 and put two L-motors controlling the treads. Remote Control will come later. My question is: If you turn a PF motor manually, will that damage it?
  23. Hi guys! I am new here so I wanted to show you my trial truck! http://nxt45.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/img_0705.jpg Full description & YouTube video on my blog: http://nxt45.wordpre...go-trial-truck/ (how do you post YouTube videos?) As always Happy building! NXT45
  24. The very first Train MOC I did was a very small 0-4-0 Pannier Tank engine with Power Functions. It's ok, but fitting PF into it kinda threw the proportions off a bit, so I wanted to do a proper one which looked a bit more realistic in shape. So I set to work on one which was, and built it from the various different colour pieces I had, before placing an order for the parts in needed in specific colours. However, I couldn't decide on which colour scheme to have it in, whether to have the top half of it in Black or Dark Red. Eventually, I decided to do two of them, one in each colour. After placing nine Bricklink orders and an order with Big Ben Bricks in America for his Medium Driver wheels, I received all the orders this week, and built them both over the past couple of evenings. The Dark Red one has PF integrated into it, while the Black one can fit PF but doesn't yet have it, instead having brick-built 'placeholders' for the PF gubbins. I'm also waiting on a custom order from America for 13-long connecting rods, which should finish them off nicely. If anyone on here is in the UK, they will be on display (along with my other train MOCs) at the Bradford Brick Show on 8th/9th Feb, and at the Yorkshire Brick Show on 22nd/23rd Feb. So without further ado, to the pictures. Can you spot the differences?
  25. Hello! Recently i discovered that both the Mindstorms EV3 beacon and the PF IR Remote are interchangeable. Here are some explanations: I was very happy to know that the EV3 Retail Kit comes with a Infrared remote(beacon), which can be used as a remote control for your robots. That's pretty handy if you want to build robots that interact with humans. By accident, i found out that the IR Beacon and PF remote are interchangeable for use with both the MS EV3 and PF systems! I tried it, and they both work with the Mindstorms EV3 IR Sensor and the Power Functions IR Receiver! Seems that the IR signals they produce are the same ( escept for the beacon mode button on the Mindstorms remote). The conclusion is that they can both be used to control EV3 and Power Functions models. Some time ago i read that the RCX can be used to SEND IR signals to the PF IR Receiver. That probably takes more knowledge than i currently have. This lead me to the following question: Can the Mindstorms EV3 Sensor can do the same? Is it able to send IR messages to other devices? For example, is it possible for an EV3 robot, using the Infrared Sensor, to send signals to a Power Functions IR Receiver? In this way you can expand the motor limit (4) with an external battery pack and an IR Receiver. I hope someone has information on that matter! (Solved! the EV3 IR sensor cannot be used to send IR signals to PF receivers and such ...) Thank you in advance!