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Found 247 results

  1. Hello everybody, this is my first post, welcome to me ;) First: Sorry for my english. i got a question: Thare is a way to switch direction (or maybe stop the train) like the old 4,5v trains? I got a end of line bumbper, and i need to stop the train or invert direction on it via power function. Thx everyB in adv
  2. Rail Co

    Lucky LEGO Train Finds

    Hey Guys! Everyone has that one story where they find a set for a great price! This is the place to share it! I love to hear stories like these as it also brings up what sites so others may be able to find deals there too! It can be anywhere from when you were a child to present, 60's, 70's, etc. I will start! I bought an MISB 4533 (9v Era Snow plow) off ebay for about $35 this year, the cheapest I have seen them was $45 dollars. Saved me $10 (Hopefully a good investment) Sealed 4533 by Railco1, on Flickr Also on ebay I got an MISB 4541 Road and Rail, for $40 the cheapest I have seen being sold is $65, savings of $25! Sealed 4541 by Railco1, on Flickr I cannot wait to hear everyone's stories. This is meant to be fun and an enjoyable thread. Enjoy! -RailCo [Moderators! this is meant to be an on going topic so if people post on it a year late, that should be okay]
  3. Hey guys! I had a lot of fun bulding this little droid, so I decided to go one step further and to build an bigger and more complex astromech. As it turned out it took a lot of time until I was satisfied with performance and size Dimensions: weight: 2348g height: 46 studs with antenna width: 33 studs depth: 25 studs PF: 2x IR-receiver 2x L motor 3x M motor 3x extension wire 1x battery box Drive: The drivetrain is quite simple: skid steering powerd by two L motors geared 1:2.799 Functions: Because I wanted more seperated funtions than one IR-receiver can provide I came up with two solutions. The hatch can be opened and closed. It's connected to a distribution gearbox, so when it's closed power is provided to the tilt mechanism. In the moment you open the hatch, the power will be provided to a serial valve control for two pneumatic valves. These valves are for the outrigger and the claw. The antenna is connected with some beams to the valve control, so I have optical feedback of the valve status. For air supply there is an automatic compressor with two grey pumps and also a nice two cylinder fake engine here is a short video. enjoy! P.S: well something went wrong as you can see at the title of my topic so...Jim or someone else: could you please change the title to: "[MOC] astromech FP-08" ? That would be great! thx
  4. Hi Folks It’s been a long time since I presented my last creation so it’s good time to show something new. Maybe this MOC it is not so fresh (I built it almost 2 months ago) but I think worth to present. The truck was built to my local Lug (LugPol) competition and the goal was that the wining truck will be an accompany to the 42030 Volvo L350F on our Lug exhibition. There was three other trucks built to this contest. But mine got most votes The prize of the contest was outstanding – beside that I received the set for the review, finally I got whole new 42030 for my own! And this is the truck which “made it”: American 4-axle Dump Truck. The truck is fully motorized, it has 2XLs for propulsion, 1 Servo Motor for steering, 2 Medium motors for rising the tipper and hazard lights on top of the roof. The truck weights 2750g, dimensions are: 51,2 x 16,8 x 19,6 cm. It is Powered by two Battery Boxes placed on both sides of the truck. The access is very easy so you can change batteries quickly. In the front there is one pair of PF LEDs and second one is mounted in the rear of the truck. As I mentioned on the roof there are hazard lights. The blinking lights are made from 1x4 Light Brick connected to PF switch which is turned on and off by micromotor. (PF LEDs are connected to the same switch) Rising tipper is operated by two large linear actuators and truck can dump up to 2kg. Drivetrain – only two rear axles are driven – total gear reduction is 1 : 4.2. Enough power to carry and ride with even 7kg of load. Overall appearance you have to judge yourself. I was trying to do my best in two weeks but I think that it’s not bad at all Under the hood you can find V8 engine. And at the end - video.
  5. Since I emerged from my dark ages, I noticed that there seems to be a trend of increasing use of Power Functions (PF) and Remote Controls (RC), in official sets and MOCs. Where adding a motor used to be optional, now there are more and more TLG models with integrated PF and RC. Even worse (in my eyes) is the fact that an official set can’t be a flagship model without any form of PF. When I see Technic MOCs in the various media, this phenomena is even more clearly visible. MOCs which get the most admiration from the community are packed full of motors, receivers, battery packs, lights, etc. The most common MOD of released sets is “RC-ing” the functions. New initiatives like the S-brick seem to confirm this trend. I observe this and I can’t understand what the fascination is, I have always had a preference for manual controls. This tend to lead to more fascinating mechanisms and make more compact models possible (just look at the amazing MINI-contest entries). In MOCs, it forces you to think about the user-friendliness of the controls and gives valuable feedback about the load on the drivetrain and the efficiency of a mechanism. I can understand adding one PF motor to avoid endless knob turning, although I found that adding a hand crank like on the 8288 Crawler crane improves this dramatically. But PF-ing all functions doesn’t necessarily makes it easier to control and takes away most of the feedback. With RC, I feel even more detached from the model and its functions. Additionally, I don’t like the noise the Lego motors make and I cringe every time a motor triggers the overload protection of a LA. When my 42030 and 8043 are switched off, the feel like dead weight and I notice a bigger threshold to take them from the shelve and play around with. All this has lead me to remove the PF and RC from a lot of my TLG sets to make the model manual: My 41999, 42025, 8070 have been de-PF-ed and became more interesting by it. In conclusion: in my opinion, PF and especially RC make a model slow, noisy, heavy, bulky and expensive. So my questions is simple: what is the fascination with motorizing a Technic model? Is it something younger generations want or demand, or is it a phenomenon driven by AFOLs? (PS: Don’t get me wrong, this is not a rant against PF and RC, I really can appreciate their value. But I do struggle to understand the fascination with motorizing everything.)
  6. Hello again, Today I present to you my final MOC before I begin college. At the beginning of the summer I had some trouble with the custom battery in this model so I had moved on to the corvette. Unfortunately I did not finish the corvette in time, but I did resolve the battery issue in this truck. This small scale trophy truck was constructed off the guidelines given for the real life truck. These trucks are massive, with 39 inch tires, and suspension travels of 24-28 inches in the front and almost 30 inches in the rear. The wheelbase is about 125 inches long and 93 inches wide. The somewhat light and agile body is paired up with a 700+ horsepower motor, making for one very fast vehicle. My goals in this model were speed and long suspension travel. In order to overcome the battery pack limitations, I purchased one of z3_2drive's custom batteries and receivers. This rechargeable battery really packs a punch. Drive is powered by a buggy motor and the steering by the servo motor. Now time for some photos! In an attempt to make the model stick out even more, I used the very unique blue panels from the 41999 BOSS Crawler. Though it did pose some limitations in the bodywork, I think it looks really, really cool. I also really like how the back turned out. Though the real trucks often do not have lights in the back, they certainly help to dress it up. The spare tires and the grill hide the rechargeable battery. Here you can see the large suspension travel in the back. Trophy trucks usually have 4-link suspension in the rear, which is what I emulated here. Just like the real trucks the rear suspension is dampened. For my model, I used the old pneumatic cylinders with only one port at the bottom. You can also barely see the battery hang down from above. Here you can see the underbelly, I am starting to get the hang of building studless! And the video, one of my bests to date. And more pictures: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=546838 I hope you enjoyed looking at this model as I had making and driving it. As I am leaving for college tomorrow without my legos, there will be no more creations until winter break. I will continue to lurk though! Regads, Tim
  7. Hello I want to present you my new creation - Audi R18. The idea of ​​creating a large and motorized racing prototype came a long time ago, after watching the race 24 hours of Le Mans in 2012. When I create this project, I faced with a lot of difficulties because of which I have several times postponed the project indefinitely. It was originally planned that the car will be manual transmission, but because of its asymmetric location relative to the center, there were difficulties with the construction of the chassis so I refused it. Similarities with the prototype very conditional, but the originals I took it Audi R18. Feautres: - 2 L-motor to the drive with gear 3:5 and 20:28 - Servo motor on the steering - IR receiver a new type, BB Original: My version: That's all. Thank you for your attention. Your Sicil. Sorry for my bad english.
  8. For some time I've been missing flashing PF lights. Yes, you can achieve flashing PF lights with motors, but there has to be a better way, also to allow more dynamic flashing options. A suggestion for this is shown below. It's also on Cuusoo - support and share if you like it. Flash element allows you to create flashing PF lights by setting the duration of the light/flash and delay (time between light/flash) plus an A and B version for more exciting flash combinations for your creations. Flash element must always be on top of connections to other elements to avoid interfering with their power supply (flash will only affect elements added to the top of the flash element). If you need more flash elements on the same battery box: simply add an extension wire and then the flash element. The unit will always flash, no matter the direction of the current. Old 9V bulbs would change state from flashing to fixed if current was reversed. PF flash element will always flash.
  9. hello, since a bit of time i decided to rebuilt some lego's, but i do not wanted to scrap my other rides;-) so i bought a 42029, because i think it is a fantastic truck to begin with:-) started from a stock 42029, i changed the length of the bed, put in a proper v8, rebuild front and rear fenders, put big 8110 wheels on it, make it rc. other things like a exhaust in the rear, the top ones still standing, it is powered by 2 l motors and the servo motor. next is the lenghtening of the cabin;-) here are some pics enjoy and comment;-)
  10. I present my latest crawler: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=545871 It's main concept is similar to my previous crawlers: nothing unnecessary part and weigth, as simple and reliable technik, as it can be. The chassis is enoug flexible to do this: http://www.brickshel...Crawler/021.jpg - so you don't need more advanced suspension in this concept. Two XL motor drive, one M motor steers the vehicle. For power supply there is one LiPo battery and a V2 receiver built in. The front part is heavier, thanks to the small wheels in the front rims and the ship weight. The chain holds the weight in position. This crawler also has the usual rock crusher tires, in my case, from RC4WD. The body is partly from the 8437 official model: http://www.bricklink...em.asp?S=8437-1 http://www.brickshel...Crawler/001.jpg I lookde around my room in the beggining of body building time, and the 8437's body in my showcase just gave himself to connect with the chassis. I wanted to make a tubular body/frame. Has a fake L6 motor in the back too: As video, there is the first part (from 00:40 to 20:55) of this video: (720p) This was an RC track test, for more information see this topic: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=97879 I made it in LDD, this is the instruction: http://www.brickshel...crawler-no4.lxf Feel free to ask or comment.
  11. Commander Wolf

    [MoC] Pennsylvania Railroad T1

    EDIT: Instructions are now available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-102718/NonsenseWars/148-pennsylvania-railroad-t1-duplex-v3-power-functions You can see some new footage and an updated explanation in the following videos. Also cleaned up dead links from the original post.
  12. MichalPL

    House Power Functions

    House Power Functions GALLERY Technical:: -Dimensions: Length: 80s Width: 56s -Gate + Garage 1x M motor 1x XL motor 1x IR Receiver 1x Battery Box Main Street Grill Car The rest of the pictures Movie: I invite you to comment :)
  13. Rail Co

    Lego Train Sellers?

    Hey Guys I am wondering if anyone knows a good shop (Online) that sells lego trains (Mostly 9v and PF) for a good price other than Bricklink and a Lucky eBay find? Thanks so much -RailCo
  14. Hello people of EB, this is my first post here. So, this is an army truck used by the Finnish military. The building process took about a month for me. The drive motor is of course an XL-motor, which is hooked up to Sariel's 2-speed trial truck gearbox. I'm sure you can find it on his site. Shifting gears works with remote control, and so do drive and steering of course. Inside the gearbox are the gears 12/20 and 16/16. One XL-motor has plenty of torque to drive this thing, especially with the V2-receiver. Both axles have 3-link live axle suspension. Front axle has hard yellow shocks, and rear axle has soft red shocks, for obvious reasons. The real truck has leaf springs, but as you all know they are rather silly to do with Lego. The steering M-motor is sitting on top of the front axle and is geared 8/40. The doors can be opened and the 5-cylinder engine in the cabin is attached to the XL-motor. The real Sisu has a 6-cylinder engine, but I couldn't fit that. At the rear of the truck you can find a spare tire, which is a lot smaller than the other tires due to lack space and saving weight. Sorry for the bad pictures :/
  15. When building trucks (pickups, trial trucks, etc.) that have motorized winches, do you use a dedicated motor for the winch, or use a distribution transmission from the main drive motors? A dedicated motor would be simpler, but then you'd need a separate channel for it and the motor would be dead weight when you weren't using the winch. Using the drive motors would allow re-use of the (presumably powerful) drive motors, and with a differential you could have the motors drive the vehicle forward as they also pulled the winch in - which seems useful when using the winch to self-extract the truck. On the other hand, a distribution transmission would add additional complexity. Specifically, I was thinking of (at some point) building a part-time 4x4 pickup with a winch on the front, which would have the following modes of operation: FWD high 4x4 low winch retraction (with the drive wheels in forward or neutral, for self-extraction; or the wheels locked by a brake, in order to use the winch to pull another vehicle) winch extension (by hand, using a ratchet or something similar to avoid having to back-drive the winch motor) I would probably use 2 XL motors and would lean towards using a distribution transmission for the winch. What do you think?
  16. I was looking at TheItalianBrick's post about the modular gearbox, and I tried to make it. This is too big for that topic, so I made this my own topic. I failed, so I tried my own way. It uses a linear actuator to make a really thin, long gearbox, though I could make it normal with just one tiny gear. It allows smooth movement back and forth, for each of the 4 functions. I wouldn't recommend this in a short vehicle, because it widens and shortens, best used in like a crane or something. It uses 1 motor for drive, 1 for change, and has 4 functions. You could use just one of these gearboxes to power 2 more, and those to power 4 more, then 8 more, then etc. You'd need a lot of torque, but it could work, eventually to 64, 128, 256 even, functions for just 2 motors, if you have enough bricks. I could build about 2 more, so 8 functions for me.
  17. Hey everyone, First, I considered using my raspberry pi to create a DIY customizable PF remote. Then I read somewhere that someone had done it, and sometimes it failed because of raspberry pi not being real time and missing some IR emitting intervals. Then I found this article. It explains how to record IR signals as audio stream using 2 IR LED's and a headphone jack, and replay them. I want to give it a try, and if it succeeds, develop an app for smartphones that can be used with a DIY emitter and used as a customizable PF remote. Has anyone tried this before? What do you think?
  18. Hi all, here I would like to share my full PF MOD of 42000. since I don't like put the battery box on the back like the official design. I replease the engien with the 'green' electric power. ^-^. I use 2 L motor for power, 1 servo motor for steering, 2 M motor for 2 actions. please see the movie, some pictures and LDD draft file. Here is the LDD file Video: http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNTY4MjEwNDc2.html http://player.youku.com/player.php/sid/XNTY4MjEwNDc2/v.swf Some pictrues: Thanks.
  19. Hi When I had been building (in March, I think) other things, that are going to appear soon, I have recognized, that I have parts to make a great chassis for simple buggy-ish vehicle. However, then I have seen some musclecars here in Technic forum, so I decieded to build one too. This one is the final product of that build - it is not prepared, I've been building it instantly according to my thoughts. Hope you like it. ;) it is propulsed by one 5292, and for steering it has one servo. It's steering wheel doesn't move, it is just decoration, and at "RC car" it was "redundable mass"... Video: More photos: https://www.flickr.c...57644613626038/ musclecar by Horcik designs, on Flickr musclecar by Horcik designs, on Flickr musclecar by Horcik designs, on Flickr musclecar chassis by Horcik designs, on Flickr
  20. Hello I'm combined trial truck and crane and I'm make Off road crane. Truck have 2Xl motors for drive each for one axle. Crane is pneumatic and work with hand pump.
  21. Hi guys! Today I want to show you my newest model - ERF E12 skip loader. erf-4 by Makorol, on Flickr I think that all information is in the video, so here it is: If you have any questions, ask :)
  22. Well, I have been assembling my 41999 copy, which some of us kept it to certain date and didn't assemble once received. When I got to the point I had to use PF Battery Box I found its LED didn't switch on with a battery switch. It turns out BB is dead, as I have tested it with two sets of batteries which perform fine in a different BB. Ok, I wasn't disappointed here as I knew LEGO Customer Service is great and will definatelly replace it. So I used my other BB to finish building the model. Later I went to LEGO CS webpage and submitted required information, that was 23 days ago actually. I received confirmation email shortly, no updates after that. Today I made a call to CS on a different question, but also asked what is the status on broken piece. The guy on the call told me I should bring it back to shop where I bought the set to get it changed/swapped or receive a refund. I told him it isn't quite possible due to limited nature of the set I have (not to mention it should be transported to a different country) - "This is the only way, this part can be changed", he told. Well this is not what I expected. Please note, I'm from Lithuania (that's in EU) where we don't have official LEGO presence, just LEGO brand stores not owned by TLG. The best what I was hoping for TLG would sent me another BB to Lithuania. The worst - TLG would send it to any address in a county where their e-shop is shipping (that would still suit me). But advise I was given is quite shocking. Standard BB isn't expensive but still costs 7,99 € in TLG e-shop and a bit less on BL. I can live with this, as there are plenty of BB provided in different sets so I might end up having too much of them. But overal eperience isn't very good at this moment. Now I wonder what is the cause of such requirement and if there are known pieces/parts that cannot be changed alone, only with a complete set? Did anyone had similar experience?
  23. This is my first ever completed Technic MOC, originally inspired by Piterx' Lancia Fulvia but much simpler. It's not quite done, but I anticipate being able to spend very little time on Lego in the next year or two, so it's as finished as it's probably going to get. There is no gearbox or interior, and there are a number of things I'd change if I had the time - but overall I'm pretty pleased with it. The 037 was the last rear wheel drive rally car to win the WRC, in 1983. It raced in the infamous Group B category, which had few restrictions on vehicle design and engine power; as a result, the overpowered cars were in a number of fatal accidents, and ultimately Group B was abolished. While it lasted, though, Group B saw some spectacular driving and some extremely fast and loud cars. The Martini Racing stripes are done with washi tape (fancy Japanese colored masking tape), which works OK except where the tape crosses pin holes. It actually looks better in person than in photos. As in the original vehicle, the hood and rear lift up, and the doors open and more or less lock in place: Also like the original, the model is mid-engined. I used 1 RC motor geared 12:20 from the fast output. Until I put the bodywork on, the car could do handbrake turns and drift on wood floors, but now that the vehicle weighs 1030g, it can't drift and can only rarely do handbrake turns. I'm especially happy with the front axle, which includes a decent wheel lock, caster, unequal length wishbones, near-Ackerman steering, and a scrub radius of nearly zero. My thanks to all of those here who offered advice on suspension - I learned an enormous amount from you all. Steering is by servo, which offers return to center, reasonable speed, and high torque. I use a basic remote because the train remote is too slow for me to keep the car from crashing; the downside to that is that proportional steering is impossible. Wheel lock, steering, and scrub radius: Caster: The hub is held together by the 4L axle with stop (and the half bush on it), which turns out to be a more robust solution than I'd expected: The rear suspension is a modification of Thirdwigg's floating differential. It works well, with one caveat. Every once in a while, the 3L axle driving the 20t gear slips towards the differential a bit, and once when this happened a 3L u-joint got destroyed by torsion. The rear suspension is hard and has limited travel, and the suspension arms are tilted up even at rest; I would fix that if I had time. And of course the obligatory under-chassis shot:
  24. Hi all, Below is my first build of a flow control device to operate a bank of single acting cylinders. It's built on top of Sariel's dual output worm drive gearbox. In this application when the motor runs forward, air is delivered through the near set of valves and black loop to the cylinders on the right. Running in reverse drives the other pair of valves to drain air through the grey loop. Each pair of valves are offset 180deg so they can never be open at the same time. This way it doesn't matter when you start, stop or change direction nothing can get stuck open. The shaft turns counter clockwise and the valves are on a spring return. I've seen mechanisms that drive double acting cylinders but not single acting. Any suggestions for other examples I might be able to learn from? (Ideally it would be a lot smaller but this was as compact as I could make it). Many thanks, OzShan.
  25. Hey there, I've got a question about the pole reverser, as I do not own any myself and haven't been able to find this info anywhere online... 1. I assume there is an "off" position (Center?) Yes? No? 2. Does it require 45º of rotation to operate the switch using an axle through the middle?