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Found 465 results

  1. AVCampos

    m:tron [MOD] B.A.T. Mobile

    Here is the Bio-containment Armoured Transport - Mobile, or "B.A.T. Mobile" for short. It is based on set 76112 App-Controlled Batmobile, with aesthetic changes to fit the M:Tron style. Instead of being only black (and sometimes very dark grey), it adopts the lovely M:Tron red-and-black with trans-neon-green colour scheme. I also extended the wheel axles to allow the addition of disks for a more futuristic look. Some of the changes were dictated by the lack of versions in the correct colours of some of the parts, most notably the black Tilted Corners 4X4 W/Angle (design ID 43708) in the front and the trans-red Cockpit 6X6X2 (Design ID 35331). Since this is M:Tron we're talking about, obviously I also had to remove the stud shooters. Other changes were mandated by the parts I had at hand... The bio-containment unit window at the top glows when the vehicle is loaded and ready to roll. I intend to bring it to Skærbæk Fan Weekend this year, for you to see it if you're interested.
  2. Hi! Today I’d like to show two small models. I’ve modified 42088 set. 1. Fire Ladder Truck: 2. Drilling Rig is more interesting. We can rotate the drill and also all drilling shaft moves down. If you like it you can download instructions on http://rebrickable.com Also I've filmed short video with English subtitles: Thanks for watching!
  3. Redimus

    Modified Emerald Night

    OK, so I have never made any secret that I think Emerald Night is crap. Odd proportions, terrible tender, complete lack of understanding of what several parts actually represent, looking *nothing* like the source material,.... I also know (from bitter experience) how difficult (and expensive) making a decent replacement is. After having built some really nice Pullmans, and building a disappointing pacific (which was miles better than EN), taking it apart, starting again, running out of inspiration, then getting made jobless so I couldn't afford to buy bits had I come up with an improved design, I decided to finally do something about my Emerald Night that had been sat in a corner with no wheels for at least 2 years. Things that I wanted to change: Give the front a footplate. Use the cylinder fix. Do something about that god awful (lack of) dome. Raise the cab so it doesn't look too daft with my coaches. Build a completely new tender (seriously, f**k that tender, that city cattle wagon was less lazy). Add lights and S Brick (which I had done a long while ago). So here are the results: Loco The new footplate, added tiles to the front bogie, replaced the green 1x6 plate with a black one, and the improved cylinder innards. New dome with S Brick underneath. Slightly raised cab. Tender The tender was a complete rebuild, but used basically the same chassis. It was however, a little lazy, and relied heavily on what I happened to already have. New Tender Completed Engine with Train. I intend to replace it with an actually good loco one day, but until inspiration and funds allow, this is a vast improvement.
  4. Hello all, When you are playing with your Lego creations, what remote control set-up/configuration do you use? The main one I use for my cars is a joystick and steering wheel combination: The other configuration I use is a 2 way joystick: The other MOD I have come across is the following link based one: More pictures are available at my Bricksafe account: http://bricksafe.com...remote-controls If you have any other modifications or set-ups you use, post them here. Thanks for reading, Jim
  5. I picked up this set recently and really like it, it’s pretty iconic and unique! I wasn’t happy with how high up Obiwan’s starfighter was positioned in the ring though, like everyone else I guess, so I’ve made a few simple changes which I hope improve the overall look. I lowered the ‘cross bar’ by about two bricks by first building up to instruction step 179 (leaving out the black pins in step 116 and skipping all the plate building steps 143 to 162) and then in step 180 connecting the upper trans Technic arms so that the 4L axle slotted in two holes lower down than in the instructions, see the pictures. Now the cams at the end of the cross bar still connected to the rim in step 182 but importantly hanging below those two LBG technic axle pin connectors (at 3 and 9 o’clock on the ring, built in steps 101 and 103). Then I added a single layer of bricks to the cross bar and built the plate docking area on top (following steps 143 to 162 missed earlier). I didn’t like those flappy panel pieces so further modified the dock area by taking them off, rearranging the curved slopes and adding a couple of new wedge plates on hinges that fit snugly either side of the fighters wings. For the whole mod I only added 22 new pieces and repositioned a few others; the white 2x10 plate and dark red inverted slopes under the fighter that get reused in the front of the dock, as does the dark red 1x6 tile and the 1x2 white tile (plus two white 1x1 plates) replaces it to support the fighter. Here’s a link to the Stud.io file showing those changes and how the trans-clear Technic pieces fit together, for clarity all the extra pieces are shown built blue and repeated spread out. https://www.dropbox.com/s/l4l4s4f68h1t5dl/MOD 75191 Jedi Starfighter.io?dl=0 And here’s a few more angles, because my description was probably as clear as mud! The mod is a long way from movie-accurate but I think the set definitely looks better with the starfighter closer to the centre of the ring and fitting more snugly in the dock. Getting the fighter to connect below the cross bar will require a big rebuild which I don’t really want to do but I may try to get it positioned further back, like in the film. I may also add more pieces to the docking area to smooth it out but for now this is an easy and cheap mod with a big visual effect. If you’ve got any other suggestions I’d be happy to hear them!
  6. Hello everyone! I'm finally here to show my simple modifications for the 75219 Imperial AT-Hauler set. Since the first concept pictures of this model leaked, I wanted it in Lego form. I really liked the overall look and the idea of a smaller imperial cargo ship, which could bring the walkers into battles. When the pics of the actual set released, it received a lot of criticism for its size and colour. I liked the appearance of the set, looked sturdy and I'm quiet liked the idea of the chosed colours. Probably when the build was designed, they had concept arts, where the final colour of the ship wasn't clear and I think the light bluish gray parts with white works well for very light gray, and it looks good with Imperial shuttles and Landing Crafts. It's not as big problem as the color of Kylo's Shuttle. Based on the official images, I have only 2 problems with the model. The first is the technic hook builds to hold the cargo, which is a decent play feature, but nut too accurate and doesn't look good too. The other problem I had, was the fact that only one figure could fit in the relatively big looking cockpit. As the instructions released for this set, I started working on this modification. Firstly I build one of the "arm" of the ship in LDD to see how could I fit the winches. I usually like to the minimum added parts when I modifying a set. When the LDD file for the whole set became available in the Official LEGO Sets made in LDD, I used that to finalizing the arms and started to make more room in the cockpit. I wanted to make big improvement with as fewer changes as possible. So here is it: Tutorial Winches Here is the original build at the beggining: For this modification you'll need this coupple parts. The first move is to remove the whole technic mechanism, which is part of the main play feature. For that, as first step, the plates from all three sides of both arms needs to remove. After that you could take apart the technic axles inside. I'll use a couple of pieces from the cargo, which is included in the set and spare parts as well. And here are all parts from the technic mechanism. The next step is to installing the string and the winch system, so firstly you secure the hooks to both strings with a knot. Than you have to lace through the string in the holes of the two light bluish gray L shaped pieces. You need use only the first two holes, after that you could pull the free ends of the strings out to sideways. The next thing to build is the winches, and its needs these parts. As the space is limited, we need the smallest parts what could use for its task. Because of that, the red technic bush will be our winch drum. You could lace the string trough the two opening of the bush and then you could put it on the axle. For placing this small assembly the long gray technic brick need to be removed from its place. You put together the two part and then you secure the winch drum with two light gray 1x3 liftarm and one small gray bush. You put back the whole thing to the arm and do the same thing on the other side. After that the plate sidings could go back to the sides of the arms and the you can put the steering wheel pieces to the dark gray axles. So here is the ship with the working winches, you could operate them by turning the steering wheels on the sides of the "wings". In the next step we remove the bigger technic panels and need to chang the position of the technic pieces on it. After you put back it to the underside of the wings, you can see that these change not only moves them down by 1 brick, but it becomes a stop to the wings, when you fold it in flight position. That doesn't let the wing to fold the wings to low, wich was another big problem of the original model. On these two pics you can see how the original one(left) is much lower than the modified one(right) Than comes a couple small details. You can add the smaller technic panels to the bigger ones and put dark gray pin connectors to the four exposed tan pins of the landing gears. And these parts can use on the front ends of the wings. Cockpit The problem with the cockpit is that it's designed to be very sturdy and solid, but unfortunately that makes the inside small. The main thing you could do is lowering the floor of it, but for that we need to take apart the whole structure. From the side panels we have to take off the black curved pieces, because they are in the way of the figures arms. The next thing to do is to put the gray wedges to the insides of the sidepanels from the outsides of them. OntThe original design, when you close the roof of the cockpit, it moves the sides out. With the wedges inside makes the side panels to reach the windshield and the distance between them allows the roof to fold properly. After the cockpit is completely taken apart, we need to rebuild its floor. With lower floor and thinner sides, we could fitt more figures inside, so we add a couple smal black panel pieces from the cargo container build and these will be our seats. In the original set the stickers for the controplanels is placed on a slope and on a tile, but I wanted to use two slopes(inspired by the cockpit of the set 75094), so I placed the sticker on a 2x3 black slope instead of the tile. After the floor is finished we need to rebuild the ship the same way as we disassembled it. So here is the final model. I'm very satisfied with this model. The winches working good and the look of the ship improved well. The cockpit could fit four minifigures total, it's a little bit crowded, but does its job. You could operate the winches very easy and with the two hooks you can lift up a lot of different things. If you needs mor stability to your cargo, then you can pull out a loop of the strings at the bottom of the wings, and you could hook those loops to a couple added pieces. Comparison with the oroginal(left): These are the leftover parts from the set: I didn't want to put the stickers to the cargo container, because they are such a cool designs and I want to use them in further MOCs, so I placed them on a couple of tiles. I really hope, you liked this small modification. The only thing, that I'm planning to design is a technic structure, what can grab the latest AT-ST. You can find my full album: Here
  7. Hi there, today I'd like to share a few simple and easy to do modifications on the 2018 75218 X-Wing. First off, the back section of the X-Wing has some issues. The top part of the back area doesnt smoothly continue all the way to the end, but rather cuts off towards the end. I fixed this by simply adding longer tiles and adding a 2x2 plate at the back. You could also use a 2x2 tile if you prefer. X Wing Back 2 by Sucram H, on Flickr I also redid the greebling by extending the middle part up by 1 stud so it's flush with the plate at the top. This gives the back a much better look if you ask me. X Wing Back 1 by Sucram H, on Flickr I also changed the colour of the actuator to change the wings from tan to dark grey, so it doesnt stand out as much. I would've removed the actuator altogether and replaced it with greebling, but I wanted to keep as many of the features intact as possible. Next I redmade the cannons so they didn't have the spring-loaded shooters on them. Normally I actually like having the shooters on my builds, but on this set they just look big and bulky. I also extended the ends of the cannons to make them longer and more accurate. X wing cannons by Sucram H, on Flickr I also managed to get rid of the gaps on either side of R2D2 by attaching a 1x2 jumper plate to both of his legs, which still allows you to take him in and out while making that area look a lot more complete. X Wing R2D2 1 by Sucram H, on Flickr So those are all the adjustments I've made so far, next on the to-do list would definitely be the huge gaps in the engines. I would love to get some feedback on this and perhaps some modifications that you guys have made to your X-Wings! For more pictures of my modificatons, check out my Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/sucram_h/
  8. While I absolutely LOVE the exterior of the new Ghostbusters set, the interior was much in need of an overhaul! While it technically "seated" all four figs it did so rather comically. Here then, are my mods. It seats all four in the proper placement without affecting the exterior or seriously degrading the integrity of the structure. See other images here. As I have received requests for it, here is the LDD file: Ecto1-Mods.lxf
  9. One thing that bothers me is that when the hatch fully opens, I have to turn the switch back to neutral position, or else the fans will stop spinning. So in step 14, I replace the clutch gear with the normal 24z gear: while in step 20 I use two clutch gears instead. I tested this out and found out that the clutch gear on the wheel retraction side was too weak that it slips before moving the wheel. The clutch gear on the VTOL side does slip too just not as often. So totally NOT recommend this MOD.
  10. Hello, I am new here, this is my first post, and my english isnt perfect, so sorry for any mistakas ;) I was worked on this project for long time (its still not finished...), and now I can show some pics. Its cabin from Arocs 42043, but all the rest is my design ( I would like to notice, theres some designs, from people on youtube, this forum etc, because if something is good, I dont want to invent it a second time :D ) Soo... TRUCK Cabin has suspension - rubber blocks Drive - 6x4 - XL motor Steering - Ackerman system - Servo motor Suspension - Front - Solid axle on leaf springs (this springs are made by Efferman, you can buy this parts on Shapeways) -Rear - Solid axles on leaf springs and air assist ( system, that minimizes stress, works like tandem-axles, air pistons are connected all together, so if one axle is going up, second axle is going down without pressure change) You can change height of rear axle/rear part of truck, like real one) 2x air connections for trailer 1x connection for trailer engine TRAILER (its not perfect, I want to use power from truck, so theres no battery box etc) Suspension like in truck, but no air assist Detach deck by pins, they are moved by air piston I will rebuild it, because I want make it better. any Q just post it, if You want more pics etc i will try to make it for You. I have no instructions, because I like to build like "sit & build" no programs, projects etc, but, i will try to help, if someone want ;) PHOTOS > https://bricksafe.com/pages/Hubbo/
  11. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  12. For a few months I've been playing around with redesigning the 10215 UCS Obi-Wan Starfighter (Delta-7 Aethersprite) with a few objectives in mind: Change the colour scheme to match Anakin's Delta-7, as per the Clone Wars animated series... but only in bricks. Improve the canopy to rear cockpit lines so that the curve is smoother and continuous. Have landing gear that can carry the weight of the set Have the option of a droid socket in front of the cockpit. Ideally this would be sized to fit the 30611 R2-D2 polybag build. As is always the case with a Lego design/build, compromises are made between style, colours, parts availability/count, function, build stability, etc. I've redesigned pretty much every aspect of the original design, with only a few core elements left untouched. The wings, engine shrouds, central hull and cockpit have all been changed extensively. I've yet to build this in bricks, so I don't know if what I've chosen so far will work. I do know that some of the pieces I've selected aren't available in the colours I want. Here's a few test renders. I'd be interested to hear anyones thoughts and feedback on how to improve this.
  13. This is the final version of my Imperial TIE Fighter based on original LEGO sets. I've made PDF step-by-step instructions as well. If anyone would like to build this one, instructions are available at rebrickable.com for 6,99 Euro here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-19900/barneius/imperial-twin-ion-engine-fighter/#comments Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr
  14. It was about a year ago and it was my very first, long (3 waves of bricklink orders) and enjoyable try on building something big and different than official Lego set. I started with the idea of just fixing the "wings problem" and replacing all light blueish gray pieces for mostly black ones. The inspiration for the construction for that came from Rebel Builder's technic hinges technique (credits!). When I was done I realized it is so majestic, it really deserves to be in black. And there it is... :) I made lots of different modifications both in wings and fuseloge. They are mostly not visible but very important to make it sturdy enough not to come apart during play with the wings position. And I was happy to manage the goal. What I was really proud of were the guides for the wings that prevent them from wobbling in any position or direction. The very front part with the mean red windows is designed as in Jang's version of this MOD (BIG Up Jang!). I do not know if I made it the same way as he did, but the shape is, as far as i recognize, the same and in my opinion absolutely perfect. I would really recommend this MOD to everyone, because the end result is much more than pleasing. Of course if you do not own 75104 and want to built the black beast, don't buy official Lego set, because you would replace most of parts. Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr
  15. There are updated pictures posted at the bottem! Hi there fellow EB members! I decided to mod my AT AT's cockpit, Now it can sit two pilots but I ran out of space for General Veers I hope you like it! Feedback is welcome.
  16. Instructions available here. I'm sure I'm not the only who on one hand appreciated the different direction Lego took with the DD design, but on the other hand found it hard to incorporate seemlessly into an existing town layout, since the architectural style is so distinct. So I set out to rebuild the set in a style more resembling the other modulars. And the result is the Internet Café Corner Modular. I almost gave up halfway through when I realized there wasn't enough bricks to build all the side walls I wanted, but in the end I managed to scrape together enough pieces to build everything I set out to. The first floor contains a couple computers to use for internet access and a small café with free Wi-Fi. The second floor has some living space and the rooftop a small garden.
  17. NOTE: This car was NOT my design as I used the awesome video instructions made by @hachiroku as seen here based on the Lego Incredibles video game. I just wanted to build it real bricks too, and since he didn't have a topic already opened about this model, I thought I'd start one instead. I DO NOT want credit for the car! After I get my Classic Space base stuff done around this Christmas, I think I'm gonna work on a superhero team to go onto my town. This team will be the Parr family, consisting of Mr. Incredible, Elastigirl, Dash, Violet and of course, Jack-Jack. The rear of the car features a place for flame jet booster exhaust. The car seats one figure in the drivers seat. I'm also debating using the Clayface Splat Attack (set number 70904) set's parts minus Batman (as seen above) from the LEGO Batman movie line together with the Brick villain mini-figure (from Incredibles 2, as seen below from Bricklink) as kind of a she-creates-a-monster-and controls-it scenario. The scenario I'm envisioning is a train derailment (using my period-correct Aerotrain model, from the same time frame as the movie's: the early 1960's-ish) as a disaster caused by the two, whom I'm calling Brick and Mortar. They want to stop the train on it's way to a science convention, in order to steal the blueprints for a secret invention of an prominent scientist... along with kidnapping the scientist herself! (I'm going to use the Mayor McCaskill figure as the scientist in question, I think.) So, all in all, does this sound like a cool idea or not? Comments, questions, complaints, and suggestions are always welcome!
  18. Bartybum

    60051 Fleshed out

    For my first post I'd like to share something I built a few months back. This is my first actual post so please do be gentle :P I decided to design a much more fleshed out version of the 60051 High Speed Passenger Train by adding various types of new custom passenger cars and locomotives. I implemented some ideas from the 10233 Horizon Express, which is quite noticeable from the pictures below (such as the all-black 10233 inter-car bogey). Firstly I wanted the design to be much more detailed and to use more advanced building techniques such as those seen in 10233 than what is standard for a City set. For instance, I wanted my passenger cars to be intermodal articulated (cheers Duq :P) to really catch that high speed train vibe. Additionally, it had to have functioning doors and fairly detailed interiors. However, common limitations prevented me from doing particular designs such as a restaurant car as an interior four studs wide simply would not be enough for me to create a bar/lounge that didn't look like it was being choked by the walls of the car. If anyone wishes to build/use the designs, I'm more than happy to upload relevant .lxf files for you all :) just be sure to credit me properly. So without further ado, have at it! 1. Inter-car bogey (10233 design in all-black) Express2 - Bogey by Bartybum, on Flickr 2. Short end coach Express2 - Coach End Short by Bartybum, on Flickr 3. Short coach middle Express2 - Coach Short by Bartybum, on Flickr 4. Short locomotive Express2 - Engine by Bartybum, on Flickr 5. Long coach middle (No end coach as of yet, as I'm yet to design one) Express2 - Coach Long by Bartybum, on Flickr 6. Long locomotive Express2 - Engine Long by Bartybum, on Flickr 7. Super locomotive (uses inter-car bogey and is therefore inseparable from the rest of the consist) Express2 - Super Engine by Bartybum, on Flickr At this point I asked myself, why stop at one storey? Why not follow the footsteps of the Metroliner and go double decker? Naturally I did :) 8. Two storey coach Express2 - Two Storey Coach by Bartybum, on Flickr 9. Two storey transition coach Express2 - Two Storey Transition Coach by Bartybum, on Flickr Obviously since this is Lego, you can switch around cars if need be, so you can make whatever configuration you want. Two examples: Express2 by Bartybum, on Flickr Express2.1 by Bartybum, on Flickr Since LDD doesn't do stickers the abrupt disappearance of red and dark grey from the nose looks just a bit jarring. Keep in mind that these designs are built with the implication of the stickers on the nose already being there. Now that all's said and done, just hit me up in the replies if you'd like .lxf files, more than happy to give them out :) EDIT: .zip files in reply section
  19. MODification of one of my favorite sets, 10027 Train Engine Shed. Probably designed 6 years ago and only slightly upgraded since Building instructions at snakebyte.dk Very high setting render from Stud.io
  20. Wow, first real post here! This is my modification of TLG's 75042 Droid Gunship, in an attempt to make it more film-accurate. List of Modifications: - removed play features such as dropping bombs and spring launchers - slimmed down light laser cannons on winglets - changed main laser cannon to add articulation and increase accuracy - added additional pieces to front to cover gaps between ball turrets and nose - added more accurate payload on underside of disc - removed cockpit hinge, filled details appropriately Here's a view of the whole thing. Off to the side, you can see the original cockpit section, which can be easily installed As a little bonus, you can open it to reveal the HMP's Droid Brain! In canon, nearly all of the Confederacy's space and ground "vehicles" were actually independently-controlled droids. However, many games portray them as vehicles with onboard pilots, so you can easily remove the droid brain, as it is only attached via the front two studs. Above is a close-up of the droid brain. The image below shows the improved payload of missiles. Let me know what you think! I'm planning to make more accurate versions of other ships as well, so let me know what you'd like to see next!
  21. Enforcer Zer0

    Death Star 75159 Modifications

    I've never liked the boxy shape to the curves in the set and I was encouraged with the reveal of cloud city and the smooth curved "separations" to replicate the same on the Death Star. I've also incorporated set 75093 in 3 of the files for a better throne room in the set. For the 2 crazy colored files: purple=light bluish gray yellow=dark bluish gray lime=black Crazy colors no throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50837 Crazy colors throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50838 No crazy colors no throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50839 No crazy colors throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50840 Only modded parts no throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50841 Only modded parts throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50842
  22. Hi guys! Recently I bought a bunch of blue pieces to mod my 7676 gunship but ended up selling it. That left me with a lot of blue bricks so I modded Lego 75151 Clone turbo tank in to a 501st version and the AT RT that came with it. Enjoy! A shot for both vehicals AT RT Here you can see it still folds up Turbo tank Interior, I fitted it with another plate so I can put troops or cargo in it Close up of plate here you can see the AT RT still fits but you will need to take the plate out I also modded the cannons because I do not like stud shooter very much So that was my mod of 75151! Hope you liked it! I would be happy to get feedback!
  23. Hi all! Today I present you my modded version of Lego 75152 Imperial hovertank! The hatch of the original version was really ugly so I though I could try to improve it by actually building a hatch. Enjoy! Here is the complete picture of the hovertank with hatch The commander peeking out. I just switched his arms btw Here I also modded the inside so one troopers sits one stud more to the left, so another can stand on top of the sloped brick. Hope you liked it and I would love to get feedback!
  24. Hi! My mod of set 75200! I added 166 new parts! I built the back of the house, changed training section, and few more details List of parts https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZRykfYPrTk4azn-3aFCh9C_j6O46HTOP Check how it works on my Youtube - with tutorial! What do you think? :)
  25. Hello, I start this topic to share with all my work with Lego : MOD MOC Reproducing your MOC Bargain on buying/selling The Lego convention I participated on To begin, please find a MOD of the mystery machine. I modified this nice and gentle van into a Carmaggedon version : I like the thumbler tyres, they fit very well to the Mystery Machine ! Hope you enjoy