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Found 385 results

  1. Paknaloid


  2. VaderFan2187

    [MOD] 2017 Milano Set

    Here is my MOD for the LEGO 2017 Milano! It's pretty shabby but I did it quickly. Crucial though: You need 2x of this piece: 1x1 round with bar First, comparison photo of the old and new. (I added eyes). Since Nebula can go to the back, the main cockpit now sits four Guardians (can't add Baby Groot :( ) Now we go to the back of the Milano (I added an engine MOD as well) Remove the roof piece And put Nebula inside! If anyone is interested, please PM me your email and I will send you the LDD. Thanks for looking! VaderFan2187
  3. First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I thought this would be the best place for this topic since this is more of a Model Team set. Mods, please move this if you see fit to do so. Hello everyone! Today I am presenting a tiny MOD to the set 10248 Ferrari F40 to make it stanced and turn it into the drift supercar you know you always wanted! And yes, it does roll. Here are some quick pics of what I did: Tell me what you think! Anything from "I love it!" to "How could you! You ruined my favorite supercar!" is fine!
  4. "Clang, clang, clang went the trolleyDing, ding, ding went the bell" - The trolley song (as sung by Judy Garland in the movie "Meet me in St Louis".) This 1930's PCC (Presidents’ Conference Committee) streamlined streetcar was originally designed in LEGO by Flickr user jwolfe7. I copied some of the design using his helpful instructions and added side skirts inspired by James Mathis' design from over a decade ago. Combined together, these features provided the groundwork for this streetcar, which is in 1940's St. Louis Public Service Company colors. The James Mathis-designed wheels can turn a complete 360 degrees. There is a slight gap between the car-body and wheel-set, but that is a price to pay for this design. See here for the original Brickshelf page for the wheels, dating from 2002. Here is the rear of the car. The pole on top of the car moves up and down signifying when the car is in operation (pole up and in contact with the "wires") while down represents the car is not in operation due to technical problems or in storage in the car barn. Below in the spoiler tag you will find my original version of this car from 2014. The LDD file for the newer version is here. Comments, question and complaints welcome!
  5. Hi all, even if this probably doesn't draw anybody from the woodwork today in the age of the Arocs 42043 ;-), i have - inspired from the better performance of the Arocs crane - recompiled my full featured Unimog 8110 from 2014 (http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1964626 and some following posts) and eliminated some remaining weak points: - better bracing of the XL propulsion drive train (now 100% reliable without any crackling gears) - double airpump now mounted the two pumps with offset to each other so the compressor delivers continuously pressure within a turn - replacing the M motor with a L motor which fits perfectly into the same location - preserving tiltable cabin even with battery pack placed within the cabin... So i have decided to rebuild the Mog from the scratch and to document the needed modifying steps with detailled photos, s.b. link... some parts of the following text and pictures are just a replication of some other postings by me in the Unimog Modification Thread but because these posting have a somehow WIP character which makes hard to recognice the final solution i have decided to present the whole final stuff in an own new thread - so if someone searches for a full-featured Unimog-MOD it can be found at one location. @moderator: if you think that this doesn't deserve an own thread, please feel free to move/merge this to the Unimog modification thread - sry for inconvenience! So here is the writeup of all the new features and improvements integrated in the Unimog. Here is the complete overview of the new features / improvements: New features: openable doors and windscreen wipers working steering wheel 3-side tiltable bed with real loading gates with locking mechanism Remote control for driving and steering - and this feature preserves the working steering wheel as well as the 3-side tilting bed and also the fake engine below the cabin. Basic requirement is 100 reliable steering and driving - Motors and receiver are quite invisible from the outside and do not badly influence the appearance of the Mog. rear PTO pass through (with PTO driven trailer, sb) so rear PTO can used even when the crane and outtriggers are rear-mounted flashing beacons on the cabin roof - activated when driving Improvements: PF switch for for better operating of the functions-motor, so you have not to change direction with the battery switch (which is very annoying) Double airpump compressor incl. airtank for more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. Airtank gives you also more flexibility during crane operation because cause of the air reservoir you can simultaneously move the pneumatic stuff and turning the crane smoother steering by fixing some steering issues Better weight balance (the standard Unimog is not really well balanced cause of the heavy battery box on the left side) More motor power for the functions and the compressor by replacing the M-motor by a L motor --> really a big improvement, strongly recommended! Attachments: - some front attachments: 8848 style pneumatic scoop pneumatic front-loader, PTO driven mower, PTO driven street cleaner - 8063 inspired trailer with PTO driven bed and deployable stand Primary goal was adding all these features and improvements but not to change the overall appearance of the 8110 because IMO this is very very good. In addition all standard features like fake engine and tiltable cabin should be preserved. Also the basic design with the gearbox etc. should be preserved. So all new features should be integraded homegeneously and - in best case - invisible. At this final state of the Unimog MOD i'm quite pleased with the result because all goals have been reached - IMHO ;-) Important remark: Some of the integrated mods are not my own but have been basicly "developed and designed" by others people, mostly eurobricks members. See the credits at the end of the posting! Pneumatic driven bed which can be tilted to all 3 sides - including real loading gates with locking It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! . There were no instructions available but there exist a bunch of photos of both solutions so i could reverse-engineer the tilting mechanisms. Most important concepts are a rotary cylinder base (based on barman's solution) a flexible connection to the bed ((completely "stolen" from tripletschiee, a very simple and intelligent solution ) and a "sub-bed" which allows to unlatch one of 3 possible tilting sides (rear, left and right): For easier rebuild i have documented the whole stuff with many detailled shots - see links section at the end. For the loading gates (see photo above) incl. a nifty locking mechanism i found a very good inspiration from EB member stefan_betula_pendula. - in this posting i have already described all deatails incl. many photos: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1972050 Double offset airpump compressor with airtank A Double airpump compressor incl. airtank provides more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. The dual airpumps are mounted with offset to each other so the compressor delivers permanently pressure. Supported by the airtank the whole system now offers in each situation enough and high air power so the crane operation has now always enough lifting power and quite fast response time. This offset needs some more space so this improvement needs one quite deep modification of the chassis which can not be applied to an already build unimog: More motor power for the functions with a L motor The M motor can quite easily replaced by a L motor if the unimog is build from scratch for all this mods. This is really a big improvement and it is strongly recommended! Turning the crane or driving something with one of the PTOs has now much more power. For the new double pump compressor (s.a.) the additional power is also appreciated. But one Remark to the pictures above: better use a standard 24th gear instead of the shown clutch - the double pump compressor appreciates the full power (with a clutch something gets lost within the clutch when airtank is almost full and no pneumatic operation takes immediately place) - with i standard gear i never get a stalled motor but always full air power... RC for driving and steering incl. a working steering wheel Today all stuff has to be RC - and even i'm not really into it i saw the challenge to integrate RCing into the Unimog together with the tilting bed (s.a.) - this tilting bed prevents from using the typical solution be placing the XL motor for propulsion in the middle of the chassis - there is simply to room for it. After a lot of try&error solutions i finally managed an RC-solution which integrates very well and is quite invisible from outside (btw: thanks to EB member Pat Ard for his initial idea placing the XL into the original battery compartment --> battery has then moved into the cabin) drives without any crackling of gears steers as well and reliable as the direct-servo-solution-on-fron-axle (steers also very well when not driving!) - a return-to-center is really not necessary with such slow vehicles... preserves the full suspension travel of the front axle (with the servo mounted on the front axle the travel must be reduced by the height of a 1x2 plate to prevent the servo from colliding with the pistons of the fake engine (from below) has a working steering wheel has a quite invisible IR receiver Integration of the XL motor: Overall the steering-motor, the accu battery and the IR receiver can be integrated very well into the cabin - the cabin then simply has a typical center console (M motor), a build in refrigerator box (gear reduction for steering) and a tool cabinet (accu at the back of the cabin): One remark to the steering solution: Here the servo motor was not an option for me, despite the fact, that the steering performance of the servo is perfect when mounted direct on the front axle - as shown e.g. by EB member Pat Ard. But this solution allows no working steering wheel because it is simply impossible to connect a universal joint and the steering CV joint (cause of too steep angle and too short distance). Running the servo from within the cabin by driving the standard steering gear-train of the 8110 is also no solution because then the steering performance is somehow mediocre: the servo has enough power but IMO the steering gear train from motor to the rack is too long with too many gears involved so there is to much backlash - and because the servo can just spin a 1/4 for a full steering lock and because of very much friction caused by the big tires this 1/4 round of the servo is partly somewhere lost in the steering gear train... These problems can all be avoided with my final and very well working solution: Steering driven by M motor with a quite high gear reduction in the cabin performs excellent, but only with a double clutch gear (because only one is too weak for a powerful and fast enough response steering even during stop cause of the high resistance of the big tires): For the working steering wheel i have 99% applied the solution of tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin Openable doors they were inspired by the solution of EB member Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... Using a PF switch switching direction via battery box is always a pain --> therefore i have added a PF switch - IMHO quite well integrated (and nowhere stolen ;-) Fixing steering issues There are two problems which needed being fixed: a) better steering lock/angle: This can be done by replacing the 4 3/4 pins (DBG) by 4 1/2 pins (LBG). Removing the pins completely is not the best solution because then the tires can rub on the chassis when suspension is compressed and you will steer... b) making the steering easier - out of the box it is way to hard - this is not only cause of the high friction of the tires but also cause of 4 red friction pins involved. In addition the whole front axle has a strong bump steer. well, i have tried several solutions: - Nicjasnos complete new front axle: this one has by far the best suspension and steering and reduces the bump steer a lot. BUT: it looks to bulky and therefore the look isn't realistic for a Unimog... therefore i have discarded it after building, installing and testing - applying the full fix of Junkstyle Gio (http://www.eurobrick...1) which replaces all 4 friction pins with frictionless-replacements: this makes the steering indeed very easy but on the other side now each grain of dust colliding with a front wheel can change the steering's too easy.. Therefore i have applied only the half of the fix of Junkstyle Gio so its a mixture of friction and frictionless pins --> IMHO is the best compromise of easyness and stability for the steering and the look of the front-axle: Adding a PTO pass trough for the crane - switchable between turning the crane and passing through the PTO This enhances the flexibility of the Unimog a lot beause now you can add any PTO powered trailer even with back-attached crane. There is a switch which allows to switch between spinning the crane and runing the PTO pass-through. PTO 1 has same speed as the PTO of the chassis, PTO 2 is slightly geared down (12:20) This mod is not from myself but it is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved. Highly recommened! Thank you, dr_spock, for providing me some detailshots. Trailer with dumping bed driven by the PTO pass-trough This trailer is inspired by the 8063 Trailer and by a trailer made by EB member dr_spock (which is also the designer of the pass through PTO as mentioned above). In fact: It is the 8063 trailer with slightly wider bed, bigger wheels and ability being connected to a mechanical PTO. In addition the tilting still can be manually operated. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full power-gear train is completely my own MOD. The original 8063 trailer has a nice stand that can be deployed via a lever mechanism that keeps the trailer upright when it is not attached to the towing vehicle. I wanted this stand being preserved because it works well and it is simply necessary for a trailer with such an axle layout: Preserving this stand makes a it little bit tricky to integrate a well braced and geared down gear-train from the coupling to the LA-base but i succeded: Details can be found in this posting: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1948575 Flashing beacons i ordered them by EB member Zmei_gorini4 (Kirill) - they work perfectly and look very good - IMHO they are worth the price...good job, Kirill! More details can be found here: http://www.eurobrick...25#entry1976100 Links to many many detail shots: Modded chassis: Building the modded chassis from scratch with all the following new features integrated: 3-side tilting bed, XL motor for propulsion (RC), L motor as replacement of the original M motor, double offset mounted air pump, preparation of airtank mounting plus hose guidings and covers for both motors (XL and L). Rear axle is 100% original and front axle has only applied the known steering fix for smoother steering movement and greater steering lock (s.a.). Of course in both axles you must switch the gear ratios vice verca in the portals (with 8:24 the Mog drives very well)! You can rebuild it with the photos found here together with the original BI of the 8110. Modded Cabin: Detailed photos how to integrate RC steering: Detailed photos of the working steering wheel: and PF switch Detailed photos of openable doors: doors Because these 3 mods have been done at different states of the Unimog modding there can be some inconsistences between some photos - build carefully together with the original 8110-BI because these 3 cabin mods slightly influence each other! Flasing beacons: beacons Rear PTO pass-through: detailed photos can be found here: Pass through Trailer with tilting bed driven by the PTO: detailed photos can be found here: - together with the original BI of the 8063 trailer you can easily rebuild it. Front loader attachment: detailed photos can be found here: Loader 8848 style scoop: detailed photos can be found here: PTO driven mower and street cleaner: Photo instructions can be found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Inspirations and credits: New features: openable doors were inspired by the solution of Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... For working steerng wheel i have 99% applied the solution of EB-member tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin - modified by me to work together with my RC steering solution The 3-side tilting bed It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members EB-members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! RC is completely my own solution and design, for steering as well as for propulsion The rear PTO pass-through is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved Flasing beacons are bought from EB member Zmei_gorini4 - integration in the cabin by me Improvements: PF switch is completely my own design Double compressor with offset airpumps is completely my own design steering fix is inspired by the solution of EB member Junkstyle Gio but modified by me better weight balance by placing the battery box with in the cabin is completely my own design replacing the M motor by a L motor is completely my own design Attachments: The 8848 style pneumatic scoop is 100% the design of EB member thomol (http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1164528) The pneumatic front loader is build based on the design of EB member Tim S. PTO driven mower and PTO driven street cleaner i have found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Trailer with PTO driven bed is inspired by the 8063 trailer and by a trailer of EB member dr_spock. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full PTO-gear train is completely my own MOD
  6. I really like this set, and even it has IMO a great gearbox, one of the first things I was thinking of after completing the build, was how to make it RC. I guess most of the six functions are straight forward, but operation of the claw is obviously more tricky. I tried to figure out if it was possible to operate the claw by the hoist string. I realized that it is possible to transfer motion to a pulley in the claw simply by pulling the string on one side of the pulley, and letting out on the other side. The claw should then in theory be kept at the same level, and the motion transfered to the pulley could be used to drive the m-LA. To achieve this, I have used two reels, each of them connected to the ouputs of a subtractor (geared down 1:3 with Z12 and Z36 double bevel gears). If using tracked vehicle implementation of a subtractor as a reference, the "drive" part is done with a M motor driving a worm gear that in turn drives a Z8 spur gear. The "turn" part is done by a XL motor, directly driving the differential housings. I probably could use a L motor as well, thus avoid the coasting of the XL. The string I have used, is simple string for packing purposes. I guess it is better (and more puristic) to use the thick LEGO string, as it looks better, is more solid and no twisting. Problem is, can I get a thick LEGO string that is long enough? Please don't judge from the aesthetics, the main goal for me at this stage was to demonstrate the idea, and I have not put a lot of effort in the looks, or making it compact. Link to video: Here is my own judge for the idea: Pros: IMO it looks more clean than a hanging motor with it's supplying wires. Both hoisting and claw operation may be done simultaneously. Able to operate two functions with a simple string. Adding mechanical complexity to the model, something I like. Cons: The torque delivered to the m-LA is limited, so the grip of the claw is not very strong. It should be apx. equal amount of string on both reals, to achieve claw operation without changing the level of the claw. Claw operation is depending on friction between the string and the claw pulley. If the the claw is resting on the ground or the object it should lift, it will not work. Probably not real-life-like implementation of claw operation. Another idea I have, still not tested, is to convert the hoist string into a closed loop. the claw implementation is the same, with a pulley driving the m-LA. On the tip of the boom, there is a pulley, driven by cross axles from the super structure (the reason for location on the tip of the boom is to reduce length of the string, and number of pulleys, to reduce friction). The hoist may then be done by two pulleys pulled along the boom, towards the super structure. One of the advantages of this implementation, if it works, is that "Con #2" above is eliminated. I don't know if this description makes sense to you, I will try to test this version also. Main problem is, how to make a long, closed loop of LEGO string, without any bumps. I appreciate any feedback, including cons. And I also hope to inspire some of you to come up with a better solution. PS: Somebody who knows how to embed a "visual" youtube link, like most of the others do (I didn't figure out)?
  7. Captain Britain

    [MOD] UCS Slave 1 + Lights!

    Hi all! I hope I'm doing this correctly?! I don't usually find my way over to the Star Wars section but wanted to share my Slave 1 with you all! I snagged the idea from a guy on Reddit who added white lights into his Slave 1 to light up the engines, and I loved the look! I knew I had to do it myself. To make it more of my own take on it I decided to change the lights to orange to try and match the engine colour better. I've also swapped out the trans-blue 1x1 tiles on the top engine for trans-orange, and have some trans-orange discs coming to replace the lower blue ones. Anyway, I hope you guys like! I plan on getting some more lights into the cockpit at some stage but didn't think orange would suit in there. You can just about see the battery pack sitting on the stand underneath with a bit of wire showing. I plan to try and hide this a bit better at some point. Signed by the main man himself :) Played around with the photo a bit as it was still light out when I took pictures... Lastly, the back! I might try and fill the last 3 holes with either more LED's to make the bottom engines brighter but if I did 6 at the bottom I'd only have 8 for the top (there's currently 14). Bonus pic - quick photo of just after I put them in. I pulled the curtain shut to try and get it a little darker but even then it was still quite light and they stand out ok. I need to change the 8x1 brick at the top for a flat 8x1 so it sits flush again, but other than that, and swapping trans-blue for trans-orange I've not amended the build. I hope you guys enjoyed!
  8. Alebricks

    [MOC] Council of Elrond

    Hi all, this is my first MOC of the Lord of the Rings theme. It needed a lot of work and I'm quite proud of it. I built it starting from the original set and taking inspiration from different mocs that i found on web. Hope you like it!
  9. While waiting for more building materials for Inferno HQ we decided that it was time the Agents of Godwins Hollow upgraded their vehicles. The first two are some basic MODs/repaints to vehicles from existing sets but the third is a MOC dropship allowing the Agents to get significant numbers of personnel into the fray quickly. The 4x4 All Terrain Attack Vehicle Agents of Godwins Hollow - Vehicles Agents of Godwins Hollow - Vehicles The 'Spyder' Assault Speedster WP_20170603_22_25_59_Pro WP_20170603_22_25_26_Pro WP_20170603_22_22_51_Pro WP_20170603_22_20_13_Pro WP_20170603_22_19_53_Pro WP_20170603_22_16_43_Pro The 'Bulldog' Armored Personnel Dropship WP_20170603_22_11_22_Pro WP_20170603_22_07_44_Pro WP_20170603_21_51_06_Pro WP_20170603_21_51_03_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_49_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_44_Pro WP_20170603_21_49_37_Pro WP_20170603_21_47_51_Pro WP_20170603_21_44_46_Pro WP_20170603_21_44_36_Pro WP_20170603_15_56_11_Pro Everybody all together... WP_20170603_22_15_55_Pro WP_20170603_22_14_13_Pro by Stewart & Sydney, on Flickr There are more pics on Flickr if you're interested and always, your comments are appreciated. Thanks for taking a look.
  10. jameseilers

    [MOC / MOD] Another UT-60D U-wing

    The U-Wing is probably my favorite thing to come out of Rogue One. I got the official set back in December and while it is a great build, I needed more. My goal with this build was to create a more accurate "system scale" (dubbed by Inthert) model built on the the official model. Some of the UCS models on here are fantastic but a little too blocky for me. The U-Wing has some tough angles and the interior is very challenging. Another thing I did differently with this build was I sat down with the official model, pulled out all my parts, pulled up some reference images and started tinkering section by section. I had a blast, felt like a little kid again building this way. Recently I have started everything in LDD, and methodically optimized the model, ordered parts, etc. It was nice to go old school. A huge shout out DarthTwoShedsJackson as his model was a big inspiration... if he ever uploads an LDD file or breakdown I may have to build one. Also, Inthert's recent model minifigure-ish scale model is fantastic. Go to my flicker page for a few more pictures and breakdown of some components. DSC03557-Edit by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03560 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03556 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03559 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03554 by James Eilers, on Flickr DSC03562 by James Eilers, on Flickr
  11. Hi all! First post from me, I've been hopelessly hooked on the new Star Wars Lego for a few years now, modding a few like Poe's X-Wing, but I wasn't sure about posting pics since that one especially has been modded to death :) I got the new Milano for my birthday (thanks kids!), it's an amazing little set but I think it just needs a couple of obvious tweaks to finish it off. Here's my effort, it's no movie replica but I've tried to build up the rear of the top to make it more substantial and added some fins. I also changed the main engine for a revolver stud shooter thing, added a couple of engines to the wings and turned the empty lower rear part into a hold for all the minifig weapons, Groot's boombox and Starlord's helmet. The annulax batteries went straight in the spares box with that horrible pink tentacle monster, yeuch! Lastly I filled in some empty internal gaps, like inside the ships 'chin', and changed those yellow hinge parts inside the wings for black ones. Hopefully the photos show off the big changes. I think it's a fun little set that was sadly missing some finishing touches, but with a few spare parts added looks so much better!
  12. I decided The Nexo Knights Volcano Lair playset needed a little something extra... I added a Skull tower with a throne and a platform for adding ingredients into a cauldron for mixing up magical mischief... Work in progress image... Best picture I could get of the throne
  13. I’m not sure if this deserves an own topic because there is already the MODs and improvements-topic for the 42056 Porsche ( But because that topic is after almost 30 pages quite cluttered and from time to time always the same complaints and questions about the flaws of 42056 came up I thought I could be worth to make a write up about a Porsche-package which is flawless full featured easy to rebuild preserving 100% the really gorgeous looks of the stock model moderate in additional costs based onto the incredible valuable work of @Didumos69 and its unofficial errata and some other MODs made by him Feature summary: If you apply all MODs listed below then you will get a Porsche with: Smooth and full working gear-train for a freely pushable car in all gears with and 100% reliable gear-shifting, no gearbox stalls anymore, correct gear sequence, no endless shifting Gear indicator at the dashboard for checking gear-state at a glance Realistic reverse-mode behavior of the center gear-mode-stick which prevents from engaging reverse-mode from all gears but first gear A new paddle-shifter module which has better and more realistic looks and slightly lighter operation Much better front-axle layout with strong enough suspension for the weight, preserved ground clearance, better geometry, less bump steer, better steering lock and ackerman steering A more rigid chassis which does not bent even without body A Hand of Good (HoG) for easy steering which results in much better playablity Very fast and easy removable (and of course attachable) bodyby just pulling (rsp. pushing) 11 red pins with bush: important for mechanics demonstration Lockable Doors Foldable bonnet holder for lockable bonnet in open state Filled black "hole" below headlights First of all some background, some remarks about the problems of the stock version of the Porsche, so about the reasons for such a topic. Luckiliy there are solutions for all problems of the stock Porsche: The first serious problem (gearbox and shifting) is completely fixed by the errata of @Didumos69 but the second serious one (front axle) is only fixed by his ultimate playable Porsche. But luckily again there is a Porsche out there which contains all these needed fixes and solutions (and some more) in one package which is available with full blown PDF-BI at rebrickable: @jb70 “Pimp up my Porsche”. BTW: with this package none of the above mentioned workarounds of TLG are necessary; they are completely thrown away. I would recommend everyone who wants to build the Porsche, who wants to build a flawlessly and very well working Porsche: Do not waste time by building the stock Porsche but start with the “Pimp up my Porsche” by @jb70 – and do all your own MODing onto this base… ;-) Well, here we go… The base package Go to rebrickable and get the BI for the “Pimp up my Porsche” MOD by @jb70 : - The BI are free and also free from errors and flaws (there are only four very small exceptions, see below). Remark: You will need only 179 very common and mostly cheap parts in addition to the 42056 set to build this Porsche by jb70 – the overall costs would be about 20 to 30€ when you need to buy all additional parts – the real costs strongly depend on your spare parts inventory ;-) Just built this "Pimp up my Porsche" from jb70 - very enjoyable build, great instructions, incorporates all essential MODs you need to change the mediocre retail 42056 in a really great set, now also functionwise: stronger front suspension (retail is much too weak) with much better geometry with less bump steer und Ackerman steering - also with much better steering lock outstanding gear indexer (= 90 degree limiter) so gear-switching is now 100% reliable, so NO gearbox stalling anymore fixed step-5 error in the BI and in addition much better gear-arrangement of the whole gearbox for frictionless spinning of the complete drivetrain in all gears - the car now runs absolute free and smooth when pushed over the table - even in 1st gear preventing from endless gear-sequence (ie. now you can’t switch from 4 to 1 or from 1 to 4 corrected gear-sequence reinforced chassis so the chassis does not bend even without body HoG (essential for playablity) fast and easy removeable body (essential for demonstrating all the internal goodies) All fixes from the unofficial errata of Didumos69 are applied and in addition some important goodies of his ultimate playable Porsche - all that stuff compiled into great PDF-instructions, even for free! This means all problems I described above are fixed, Many Thanks @Didumos69 , many thanks @jb70 ! Well, there are 4 small errors rsp. recommendations for changes within the BI of jb70: 1. Error in BI: The blue 2L pin at step 59 (page 60) is not needed 2. Error in design and BI: The front-calipers are mounted in a faulty manner: they will rub against the inner side of the rims which prevents the car from running smoothly when pushed along. Solution: use a thin 1x2 liftarm and an axle with towball (instead of a pin with towball) for connecting the steering links to the hub and then build the front calipers as shown in the stock BI (page 152, step 212) and Bob will be your uncle – see pic below: 3. Recommendation: I recommend to omit the pin-clutch of Didumos69 - This means replace at step 38 (page 32) the two blue pins with one axle 4L --> the Didumos-errata-based jb70-Porsche does not need this clutch because the gear-box works now 100% reliable and it never stalls... in contrary: the clutch has the disadvantage that it can chips in when not necessary cause of too low friction of the pins! Without this clutch all is working like a charm and the pistons just fly ;-) But of course it is not necessary to omit this clutch - but then you should ensure that you use two pins with really high friction!. 4. Recommendation: jb70s Porsche already contains the wonderful MOD of Hispabricks for a fast and easy removeable body – but this can be optimized a little bit: Just fix the seats completely at the body so not connection between seats and chassis remains. For that do not mount the LBG 2x4 liftarm in step 19 (page 7) and all parts attached to it. They are not needed anymore. Mount the seats in step 47 at page 173 as shown in the pic below - see yellow circle. Now the body is even faster removeable and completely independed from the chassis (Thanks to @DayWalker for this small but valuable MOD). That’s all – apart from these small changes the BI of jb70 are errorfree: ready for a full and flawless working Porsche. When finished jb70s Porsche you have already a Porsche with smooth and flawless working features and with great playability. If you want to go further you can easily apply the following MODs which add a lot of realism and even better operation. Additional MODs on top of the “Pimp up my Porsche” base-package: Dashboard gear-indicator and realistic reverse-mode behavior: A well visible(!) gear indicator is IMO an essential feature for a sequential gear box. The following MOD offers exactly this and the needed mechanic is fully invisible: the needed mechanic is completely hidden behind the black curved panels of the center console. The stock behavior of the reverse mode is completely unrealistic because it allows to engage reverse regardless of the current active gear – IMO the requirements are as follows: reverse gear has a high reduction-ratio (in this case the same as first gear) engaging reverse (or neutral) mode is not possible if another gear than 1st is engaged, ie. it does NOT allow to shift from 4th (and also not from 3rd and 2nd) gear to neutral and back in reverse mode you are prevented from switching gears - so in reverse-mode you HAVE JUST ONE possible gear-ratio (see 1) This MOD implements exactly this. And it does it so that it is fully invisible and the needed mechanic is completely hidden behind the black curved panels of the center console. Here is a pic which shows both MODs built into the jb70-Porsche – you see that you don’t see anything unless the blue indicator at the dashboard – which is good in this case ;-). Here I have described both MODs in detail and also how to integrate into the jb70-Porsche: Here can you find a a lot of pics of the internals and instruction hints how to integrate both MODs into the jb70-Porsche base: Here is an example pic of my bricksafe-folder so you can see how detailed the explanations are: Kudos and many thanks to @DayWalker who has developed both of these MODs. I have only integrated them into the jb70-Porsche and have done only some very small improvements. Both MODs can be very easily integrated in jb70's Porsche implementation. The few needed changes are very obvious and easy to manage. But you have to take into account them from the beginning, ie. from page 1 of the BI of jb70. All integration changes have to be done between step 1 and 23 (pages between 1 and 17) – especially the gear indicator can not be integrated later one – there are essential changes at page 1 of the BI of jb70 which can’t be done in no way later on! New paddle shifter unit with lighter operation and more realistic angled steering wheel @Didumos69 has developed an improved paddle-shifter unit: Well, it’s a quite clever mechanism which allows slighty lighter operations. But its main advantage is the better look cause of the angled steering wheel and the almost (because of inside mounted) invisible rubber bands. So this new paddle-shifter shifts an already very good and 100% reliable stock shifter (but only with Didumos’ innovative 90 degree limiter and indexer which is part of the jb70s package) to an almost perfect gearbox-shifter. Overall I rate it as very well designed and a nice addon which is really worth of building and integrating into the jb70-Porsche but IMHO it’s not a must have because the retails shifter contained in the jb70-Porsche works really well. Here are two pics of the new shifter module: Anyway, here I have described in detail how to integrate into the jb70-Porsche: Lockable doors and foldable bonnet holder: @el Squatterhas developed a very clean and nifty MOD for lockable doors. They are dead simple to integrate into the jb70-Porsche without any side effects. Myself has developed a very small but nevertheless usefull MOD – a foldable bonnet holder. The holder can be very easily locked in open state. I added this MOD because the opened bonnet with rear spoiler is the only way to get a glimpse of moving pistons when the body is mounted. But the bonnet+rear spoiler is too heavy for staying reliable open when the car is pushed around (because it is just hold by the friction of two pins). Therefore I added the following lockable holder. For locking the opened bonnet just pull the center joint a little bit backwards then it will be locked and the bonnet will stay opened. For closing just fully open the bonnet and the holder will automatically fold down when you close the bonnet. Here I have described both MODs in detail: Cosmetic: Filling the large black gap below the headlights Several people have complained about the huge black hole below the head-lights. Me too. Therefore I have added a dead simple fix for it: I really don’t understand why TLG has not applied this very cheap and also very obvious enhancement which make the model looking even more awesome. Summary: Overall I would rate this Porsche now as an excellent supercar with outstanding exterior and great and very well working functions which can easily compete with all of the supercar MOCs out there… And most important: A successfull build doesn’t depend anymore on your luck but only on your building skills and your ability to follow exactly and carefully the provided BI (supplemented by some photos for integrating some MODs into the base package of jb70) And If you want to give your Porsche the icing onto the cake I recommend you the wonderful stickers by Walter Spierenburg (see topic link below the pic) which really adds very much optical value – see pic below: @Jim: I have used a pic from your original topic - i hope this is ok but your photos are so good i could not resist ;-) - here is the original topic for this wonderful stickers (really high quality and fast shipping - i'm really hooked. Last but not least: Many thanks and kudos to @Didumos69, @jb70, @DayWalkerand @el Squatter which brought all these wonderful MODs to the table. I have only complied them into one - now full featured - model and integrated them into the great basis “Pimp up my Porsche” by jb70.
  14. Paknaloid


  15. Presenting the 8258-B Crawler, Designed and built as an entry for the 'Crawlify your set' contest [AMS1] I'm a huge fan of b-models in general, but the 8258-B has always been one of my favourites due to great looks and an easy to modify. Or so I thought... In the end, I reckon about 85% of the chassis has been custom built. There are two L motors situated just below the cabin. One powers the front axle, one powers the rear. Both axles have differentials because, being independently powered, loss of traction is a lot less likely and it saves my poor pieces from becoming mangled. Because the 8258-B is rather small (read: narrow) I had a lot of trouble designing a front axle that could house a servo motor without limiting the range of suspension travel. Eventually I gave up and ended up modifying this axle to accommodate a differential (well deserved credit to the amazing @Madoca 1977). However with that said, I have made sure the bodywork stays almost 100% true to the original. The only alteration I had to made was to the rear wheelarches to make room for the balloon tyres: Original wheelarch Modified wheelarch: Also, the front winch kept scraping on obstacles I was trying to climb over so I switched this out for a bullbar, however the two are easily interchangeable. Anyways, here's a video of this thing in action. As always, please let me know what you think. Whether it's praise, criticism or telling me off for building ANOTHER red and black model (I have other colours, I swear!!), I'd love to hear it. More images can be found in this bricksafe folder. Enjoy =)
  16. TheGeneralMoe

    [MOC] [MOD] First Order Transporter

    Hello Everyone! I have finally finished building my First Order Transporter, all from pieces from my collection. Took some time to find the fight parts, but I'm happy with the results! The body has been modified to be longer and hold more troops, around 8-10 depending on how cramped it is, or on what troops/weapons are used. Features all the same features of the actual set, but modified be be more movie accurate, such as the turret at the top. Also a good opportunity to show off my Megablaster for the heavy artillery trooper. Been waiting for the Rogue One Rebel Battlepack to come out so i can get that new gun piece to build this.
  17. I'm not terribly impressed by the 2017 LEGO City Police Station. The set's layout is confusing, the jail cells are oddly positioned at street level outside of the station complex, and many of the building's rooms are unrealistically designed (how are your minifigs meant to get between floors? Or from the helipad on the roof inside the station?).That's why I made an alternate build, using only the pieces that came with set 60141.My police station is more aptly described as a local branch office. Why try to do too much with the parts they gave us in the set? My modification has two floors, an internal cell that is off from the street, and a functional ladder to allow pilots access the building from the helipad.Let me know what you think - and do check out the video review of this MOC!
  18. Hi Guys! Here is where you can post your MODs of the LEGO Marvel Vulture! Here is the "original": I used ingot pieces in black for the texture instead. What do you think? Thanks for looking! :) C&C very welcome!
  19. Dear All, it has been a very long time since my last “productive” post on EB – I have been lurking ever since from time to time - but no contributions from my side. It is time to share some of the stuff that has slowly accumulated over the recent years. These are some locomotive and rolling stock ideas/MODs/MOCs. Below is a short summary of what and why; the instructions were meant to go on the RailBricks repository but that seems to be no longer an option. Instead, I am using my cloud space at work; a click on the link below the images should get you to a corresponding folder with the MLCad/LDraw file(s) and the LPub instruction PDF(s). Note that there are 300DPI as well as low-res versions of the PDF files; the latter are much more bandwidth friendly. Also note that there may be numerous errors/faults – I am using these files as references and aid for my rather limited building capabilities. Generally, I am building in a rather weird way, I guess. Most of the parts I am using, particularly for rolling stock, are spare parts from LEGO sets I got as present or simply purchased for other parts. Rarely the sets I am buying survive as a whole. It may also be an excuse to regularly visit the local TrU or LEGO stores nearby … for some reason it is still very exciting to me to browse through their shelves – that is also the reason for not ordering sets or parts online that often. There are exceptions of course. BrickLink is more of a last (and beautiful) resort. I have simply more fun figuring out ways of using individual pieces that initially appeared to be useless even for a longer time. Also, I hardly use scaled schematics for building – it is just my personal look and feel that should be “right”. So all my models may well appear as inaccurate or unrealistic in some way or the other – but they are just that: LEGO MOCs and MODs … and I am sure, that many building ideas have already been shown – either here on EB, in the various BrickShelf galleries, or somewhere else. I have not checked thoroughly though – just let me know and I’ll add the references. There are currently no photographs of the real trains. I am planning on taking these along with some impressions of my expanded “home office layout” – hopefully sooner than in a couple of years from now. This a rather long post, I am sorry. But I simply did not want to open several threads on rather minor things. Locomotives/Trains 1) GP38 “BNSF” (#10133) MOD LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) I personally believe that the BNSF GP38 is one of the most inspiring train models TLC ever made. It appears as if many builders have modded, extended, and (re)designed their models based – at least partly – on the layout of this engine. I have also merged some of the beautiful design elements from the SD40-2 “Maersk” train (set #10219; these are the cab lights, front section, truck elements with new discrete brick/plate pilot design) along with a new frame comprised of discrete plates, re-bricked the fuel tanks, and added front PF lights. The concept of powering the locomotive is either pure “9V” or “PF”. A PF version requires a controller of some sort; either custom approaches (e.g., Arduino) or plain vanilla PF controllers/batteries located in separate cars etc. When running on its own with onboard battery and controller, the color scheme suffers severely on the 4-wide body section of the locomotive, which could be covered by custom stickers of course. The modified SD40-2 “Maersk” train introduced further below may also serve for “controlling” purpose. On my layout an SD40-2/GP38 pair is hauling rather heavy loads: The SD40-2 as PF controller with onboard battery and two motors and the GP38 with just one additional motor hooked up to the SD40-2. The V2 version of the PF receiver is handling 3 motors rather flawlessly when fed with the rechargeable LEGO LiPo battery. The required building steps are included in the SD40-2 instruction section, see below. 2) SD40-2 “Maersk” (#10219) MOD LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) The major SD40-2 changes are the discrete plate frame (this way it became possible to add the neat white stripes the original locomotive features), changes to the trucks (they are one stud shorter and have a discrete brick/plate pilot), changes to the main body behind the cab, which is now only 4 studs wide, and to the fuel tanks. The engine is PF controlled, runs on the LEGO LiPo rechargeable battery, which is in turn charged through power-pickup from the 9V rails using a modified 9V train motor, cf. this EuroBricks topic, PF V2 receiver, and second PF train motor, along with PF head lights. The additional second PF receiver output wired to the rear section may be optionally used to operate a third motor; the GP38 shown above is an example. The color scheme of the 4 studs wide section behind the cab is suffering from the dark/light grey sections of the PF elements; however, I pretty much like the “used look” that results from that though. I never really like the original LEGO design of the body, where the receiver etc. is covered by large plates – to me, it appeared simply too wide for an overall 6 studs wide model. Note: There is an additional PDF which shows the required modifications to pair the SD40-2 with the GP38 shown above 3) Cargo Train (#4512) MOD 1 (engine), 2 (battery car), 3 (box car), 4 (box car type2), whole set LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) The “major” changes to this very classic 9V train are the addition of a PF “battery car” in the same color scheme of the original locomotive and box car, and some undercarriage changes to the latter. There is also a second version of the box car. I really do like the old-dark grey/green color scheme of this train. Fortunately, my father has given me his Sopwith Camel (set #3451) as “brick supply”; this way also the second box car version became reality in the grey/green color scheme. The front section of the locomotive is raised by one plate and the front handrail changed. 4) High Speed Passenger Train (#7897) MOD 1 (engine), 2 (coach A), 3 (coach B), whole set LDraw file(s) and PDF instruction(s) Ages ago the “real,-“ department store close by not necessarily well known for their LEGO set inventory had the RC high speed “ICE” like train set on sale … I got two for very little money. Well, the one-piece front cab of this train (part #55768) has been discussed “controversially” – carefully phrased – but nevertheless, as far as I am concerned, with some modding a more or less decent passenger train resulted from merging the two sets. Everything has become a little “longer”, particularly the coaches. Also, the coaches have discrete plate frames and their trucks are rather heavily modified – based on the design of James Mathis’ Santa Fe cars (sets #10022/#10025). The four additional white 6x8x4 cylinders with flattened upper half (part #45411) required for a train consisting of two engines and three coaches came from two City tank truck sets (set #60016) – I could not get hold of the white cylinders with flattened lower half (part #45410) so the third car has a modified lower section. [Note: Unfortunately the “RC train base” (part #55455c01) is not available as official LDraw part – and I guess it never will be. I simply assembled that part from bricks and plates for the instruction and treated it as part in LPub … no idea how to do it differently. Also the “ugly” front nose is not even an unofficial LDraw part, I found the LDraw.dat file at digital-bricks. Rolling Stock 1) 4 Axle Tank Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction The tank design is close to that of the #10016 tank car set; there are some additions to the top section. The frame is made rather conveniently mainly from Technic pieces. 2) 2 Axle Tank Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This is a plain vanilla 2-axle tank car – I guess there were many similar designs posted in this forum. 3) TankTainer Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This one is a result purchasing the #3368 Space Center set – I was looking for the #64448 support/fence part (or whatever it is called) in red for a bridge structure – and these were left overs – as were the (sloped) tank half shells … looks a little weird but this way the car is more or less 6 wide and the tanktainer is easily removable. The frame is again mostly comprised of Technic pieces 4) Flatbed Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction The flatbed car is entirely made-up … it started with the four #91176 support parts from the 2011 Red Cargo Train #3677 set – did not know what to do with them … the cargo is – hmmm – cylinders? Had too many of the round 2x2 bricks and round bright green 1x1 plates … 5) Spine Car (with girders) MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction I guess the 5 “Toy Story 3” sets I purchased one after another for €20 each at TrU. No idea why that was, they had them for more than a year somewhat hidden in the “bulk-brick” section and each time I was there I could not resist … lots of bley plates for another bridge and for a rather big train station … but also tons of the 2x2x10 girders … 6) Gondola Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction As already mentioned, for the high speed passenger car MOD shown above I needed extra white 6x8x4 cylinders. At that time, the original ICE-type high speed train set was gone for long; the City tank truck set #60016 featured two of these cylinders each though; white with flattened upper half and green with flattened lower half. The white ones were perfect for the passenger cars, the greens were “left overs”. Which brought me to the gondola car – again entirely made up and again with a Technic element frame. 7) Tipper Car MOC LDraw file and PDF instruction This car is the result of eight yellow tipper end sloped pieces (part #3436) from the #4565 Freight & Crane Railway set (which was my first train set after my Dark Ages). For long, I did not know what to do with those. Then I saw tipper cars on BrickShelf, looked them up on the internet and this is the result. I guess they are rather “European” if not “German” … small and compact. The yellow color is not appropriate at all, but that’s how it is. This is it for the moment. Thanks for reading! Regards, Thorsten
  20. Hi. Do you remember 2016 pullback combine model? Yea, 42046+42047 extreme police racer. Looks AWESOME and I built it. And after some playing, I found AAA/rechargeable batterybox can fit if remove pullback motor. And after some more trying, I success make steering system with servo motor. Hear is resault. The Extreme Police RC Racer. Sorry for bad video. But drive very well. Can use both L motor or RC motor for drive, servo motor for steering, Sbrick or V2 receiver. Insturction here 75 part, 153 step, photo sequence.
  21. VaderFan2187

    [MOD] Justice League Batmobile

    Full post here Who has the coolest gadgets? BATMAN!! Who has the tricked-out ride? BATMAN!! Well, like him or hate him, you gotta admit the Batmobile is pretty darn cool. Especially in Justice League, with all the extra guns slapped on top. I thought the JL Batmobile looked rather awesome, but when pics of the Flying Fox set came out, I wasn’t thrilled by LEGO’s official version. But this is LEGO, so I modded the 76045 Kryptonite Interception set and added the extra guns! Check it out! BEFORE AFTER You can see I added the cannon above the cockpit, the guns on either side, as well as the main cannons in front. Some of the reference images clashed so this was the best I could do. Thanks for looking! Let me know your thoughts in a comment below!
  22. As a camper van, the 31052 Vacation Getaways set is far too big for my taste. But as an exception to the rule (the rule being that alternative 3in1 models are uninspiring and poorly made) the Hillside House style small building looked sort of nice in the pictures, and the sand blue windows and door frame were enticing. So in all the places of the world, I found this set for a good price in Switzerland, which otherwise must be the most expensive country in Europe... €41 for one set. I got one and built the house. It felt even smaller than I had thought, but with another set, it could be expanded... So I bought a second set, but didn't end up expanding the house. Instead, I started playing around with LDD. The result is a 16-wide three-storey modular building based on the idea of using the sand blue windows. The back side is very plain, as are the sides of the building. There is no interior, save for steps that take you from floor to floor, apart from the ground floor, which doesn't have any steps... I'm not too fond of creating interiors for residential buildings, since they are all more or less the same, so this will most likely remain empty. I hope you like it!
  23. BrickMonkeyMOCs

    Modified 75175 A-Wing

    I was impressed enough by the new 75175 A-Wing set enough to buy it, but there are several flaws that can be addressed resulting in a much improved model. One aesthetic issue that stood out even from the earliest released images is the stepped transition of the curved slopes on the top of the hull. And while I really like the new fin parts and the attempt to angle them inwards, the official set's solution results in too much angle, a flimsy connection, and rather odd-looking brick-built engines. The landing gear is also less than ideal, with rear struts that don't fully retract and a front strut mounted higher than the rear, resulting in the model sitting very nose-down when landed. So I've addressed all of these points and included a few extra improvements to produce the version below. Features: Removed slope transition on top hull Brick-built engines replaced with cylinder bricks Engines/fins connected securely at corrected angle Fully retractable rear landing gear Front landing gear lowers to same height as rear Wider mounting of laser cannons Engine detail included under rear cover FREE LDraw instructions HERE.
  24. I was excited when Carl Greatrix' Caterham Seven was selected by Lego Ideas to become a set, and have been patiently awaiting its release. While there are many aspects of the model that are really great — all printed parts with no stickers, amazing detail in the engine bay, clever building techniques, and a great colour scheme — I have to say I felt a bit underwhelmed with the completed build. The designers seem to have sacrificed overall proportions in some areas for structural rigidity and sturdiness, and yet despite this many parts remain quite flimsy. However, with a bit of effort and some spare parts it isn't too hard to correct the flimsy bits and improve the proportions with no significant loss of sturdiness. This thread is to assist anyone who may also be less than entirely satisfied with the official build, and would like a few tips on how to improve their model. Here is a list of improvements featured in the above revised model: Reduced colour barf throughout the model's interior Front axle and fenders widened by one stud Nose section locked in place more securely Removed ugly underside front rail to nose transition Lowered overall height of the bonnet by one plate Dashboard redesigned and connected more securely Secured forward connection of the side exhaust Filled in gap between the bonnet and dashboard Replaced seats with design matching prototype version Reduced gaps between the rear wheel arches and wheels The end result is, I think, a better looking and sturdier model that I am much more satisfied with, and one which I am very pleased to display on my shelf. Below is a link to the LDraw instruction file for anyone interested in modifying their set to this version. DOWNLOAD LINK
  25. I created this modified Bucket Wheel Excavator some time ago, and I thought I would like to share it on this forum. After building the original BWE, I wanted to try to incorporate some Mindstorms functions into it. I managed to motorise all the active functions, using both an EV3 brick and motors, as well as some PF motors. Functions can be preprogrammed, or can be remotely controlled using an EV3 IR remote. Here is a list of the functions: Bucket wheel rotation and main conveyor belt - PF XL motor Lower conveyor belt - PF medium motor Boom arm elevation - EV3 large motor Lower conveyor swivel - EV3 large motor Superstructure rotation - EV3 medium motor Driving - EV3 medium motor Since I owned an NXT as well, I used it to motorise the small mining truck that was included in the set. There are also some LEDs that illuminate the 'work area', but they don't really do a good job, its just a nice thing to include. Here is a video of the excavator in action, as well as the mining truck (sorry about the poor resolution and bit rate): More info about the machine can be found here: Let me know what you think of it in the comments!