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Found 385 results

  1. Greetings, i want to introduce my MOD of official set 8081, made for @Thirdwigg's and @rm8's fan contest. Warning, pictoral heavy post ahead. We all know about bug hit in SUV market - Daytona Extreme Cruiser - city suv with v-4 under hhe hood, stylish body and good offroad perfomance, while being rwd only. We heard that new generatiopn is under development now. Soon maybe we see spy photos of prototypes on their test drive... But lets look back, in the past, to see what lies in roots of Extreme Cruiser. What allowed Daytona automobiles to test new ideas and engeneering soutions... Meet the Daytona Omnis R2 It was produced in early 80-es in small quanities and today it become a rare classic. Underrated, but classic. View from all sides: As it sucsessor, it features openable hood, doors and trunk Under the hood supercharged v-4 engine could be found. Also unique front suspension can be seen too. Rear suspension is regular live axle. Car have spartan interior which aside of front seats has also small rear bench, making car 2+2 seats formula Lets look on Omnis from below You can see vehicle's 2+N synchronized transmission and suspension, which has long travel and soft shock absorbers, ensuring comfort and smooth ride even on off-road. Examples of suspension travel Hope that you enjoyed our little demonstration. LXF file with model - https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vdrwnp95aj45ta/8081 Daytona Omnis R2.lxf?dl=0 Really hoping to see your comments and suggestions on my mod.
  2. I picked this set up last year, I have tried many ways to modded the wings, this is the latest version which remained unchanged for around 6 months. The biggest problems for this set and the black/orange version is that the wings overlap, I have to fill up the each top engine nacelles with 1 x 3795 Light Bluish Gray Plate 2 x 6 , 1 x 3023 Dark Bluish Gray Plate 1 x 2. Move the existing parts around to rebuild the front wings, swapped the position of the 2 slopes (3298 and 3297). The end result is that each wing is 3 studs thick, when closed the whole wing combined is 4 studs thick. Additional parts required below, I apologise in advance if I missed any, I have tried so many different combinations overtime that I have to refer to the original building instructions to what the wings look like originally. For the nose 1 x 3069b sand blue 1 x 2 tile 1 x 807079 Light Bluish Grey 2 x 4 tile For the wings 2 x 3795 Light Bluish Gray Plate 2 x 6 2 x 3023 Dark Blueish Gray Plate 1 x 2 4 x 3024 Dark Bluish Gray Plate 1 x 1 Cannons 4 x 3713 Light Bluish Gray Technic Bush 75149 Mod by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Nose by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Closed Front by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Close Back by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Open Front by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Wings Open Back by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Back Wing Topside by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Back Wing Underside by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Front Wing Topside by R Y, on Flickr 75149 Front Wing Underside by R Y, on Flickr
  3. I really like the new city space line and 60229 is my favorite of the line. But there are two aspects of it that I thought should be improved to live up to the name of the set. The crane needed more range of motion and the truck needed to be longer to actually carry more of the rocket components. I extended the truck by one axle and the length of the bed, so that it can properly carry the shuttle portion and single rocket boosters (they still hang off though). The most serious mod is adding another axis of motion to the overhead crane, built on two baseplates. I used the new rollercoaster tracks for this which worked well. I also built a ramped platform for the truck to bring its bed height closer to the bed of the rocket transporter. Lastly I added a cab and supporting railings and ladder to the crane so that it can actually be operated by someone instead of mysteriously moving on its own. Enjoy and comments are appreciated!
  4. Hello Community, I would like to say hello ... I read this site over a year now and before I post something, I should introduce myself ... Well, I am made in Germany, my age is something about 50+ years and I am interested in Lego Star-Wars models. Here are some pictures of my Star-Wars spaceship interpretations (MOD) ... Thank you very much and best regards Miller LEGO Star-Wars Set Fury- Class Interceptor 9500: Link to the picture (^) Link to the picture (^) Link to the picture (^) Link to the picture (^) .
  5. Hello, Madoka's JEEP Wrangler for me is most beautiful JEEP build from LEGO ever. That was a love from the first sight. And it is also fit my favourite scale - 15 stud wide body, like my Toyotas. Since I saw it - I want it on my shelve. Comparing to Madoka, who's every new model is a Challenge and he never use previous model's elements (no matter body design or internal structure of chassis), I am quite conservative. My every next model is evolution of previous if talk about chassis. Madoka's JEEP Wrangler chassis is awesome, but I prefer my own with springs, links and gear rack steering. So I stretched his Jeep from 3 door version to 5 door, added rear seats with foldable backs. Put it on the Hilux chassis with minor changes and that's my "own" JEEP. specs - Driving - XL motor - Steering - Servo motor - Body removable from chassis - Openable doors - Removable 2 section hardtop roof - Suspension on both live axles - 4x4 transmission - LED lights - Smart Brick for RC with iPhone / ДУ через Sbrick - 1 stud lift possibility - Winch is fake (like all beautiful things in modern world:)) The hardest part for me was rear doors. That sounds funny, but making them tapered with the right angle was impossible using standart angle connectors. So I have to cheat and use LEGO System bricks and inverted slopes. No, I never miss this bricks while playing Jeep, but this element is still bothering me. May be someone could offer better design - I will be glad to use your idea. Front axle is little bit long, shifted forward may be half or one stud, than should be. But this was done to fit larger wheels, because stock wheeled JEEP Wrangler is the worst looking offorader in the world, especially long wheelbase version I also left possibility for body and chassis to be connected on two ways: standart and 1 stud lifted. This is lifted verison with 74 mm tires from RC4WD Jeep is modular like real model with removable doors and 2-section roof, thanks Madoka for design. Front lights are still LED ready. Expeditional stuff increases the weight of the model, but this is Jeep's calling to be like that. Roll cage, roof rack, spare wheel holder, baggage and cans, fake winch, extra lights, snorkel and extendable rain/sun tent. With minor changes in the axles, model can stand on RC 1:10 tires that have wide variety to choose from And my favourite: Buggy Mode with RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ tires about 81 mm diameter. And this is not just shelve model, because Jeep without roof and doors is really light. If you put Buwizz in it - you will have a lot of fun with it ;) Many more photos here My advice to novice builders: don't hold your sets under the dust on shelve, and don't try to build your own model from scratch. Modifiying sets and models of other designers is the easiest way to increase your skills. Don't afraid, just try:) You can also see some other wheels variations in the next video. And of course, test drive in different conditions, including rocks, mud and water. Have a nice time;) How it performs with BUWIZZ? Check it out p.s. You can also watch review of Madoka's model. TURN ON SUBTITILES. or original video Jeep Wrangler (red) designed by Madoka
  6. Hello everybody, during this holidays I purchased the 42081 and decided to build it a little different. First, I made some minor changes in design, to look a little more similar to the "real" Zeux. I changed some color here and there; the yellow panels in the middle are different; the placement of the "02" adhesives is on the lower DBG panels instead of the upper ones. But the biggest MOD was to add the pneumatic system, with motorized pump, instead of manual LAs. The valves are located on the sides of the loader, 2 on the left and 2 on the right. There are 2 big cilinders (to rise the arm and the rear axle) and 2 medium (old) cilinders, to operate the bucket and the counterweight. Here you can see the last cilinder, the pump and the motor, located below the battery box: And here is a short video:
  7. Hi, First and foremost, i'm French. I do my best to avoid grammatical and spelling error but some (a lot in fact) may subsist. I'm sorry for that by advance. Second, it's my first post here! Hopefully not the last. So here is my mod based on the set 21108 Ghostbusters Ecto-1 car. It's a fully custom made light mod. Key feature of this is: - NO modification of ANY Lego bricks. - NO kragle or drilling or any other funky stuff. - Everything must fit inside. - Hide the mod as much as it can be. - All should work as expected (the strobes strobe, the rotating beacon rotate, etc). The mod is made of 28 LEDs, all controlled by an Arduino board. All wire are INSIDE the car. // All images are clickable for a bigger version. Here is the exterior shots, everything is exactly like every set: The roof portion is still detachable without any hanging wire, it's also clean underneath. Nothing cheap to hide a messy mod: Everything is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini (Not really a choice, it was the smallest Arduino board I had in home) that is hidden under a 4x2 plates: Same apply for the battery, that was what I had at the time of building. A smaller lipo can be fit so it's not a choice. Run time is... Well I don't know. It fit in the trunk of the car and it's the ideal size to be held by the window mounting point after a small change in the design. Neat! The roof is attached by a very thin wire and connectedto it via a small 45° home made adapter: To start the Arduino, there's a hidden Reed sensor which is (for who don't know) triggered by a magnet. I put a neodyme magnet in a small Lego round piece and when it's in place underneath, the controller is powered on. Yup, the Ecto-1 keyfob is a Lego piece with a magnet in it. Then the magic begin: Pictures don't do justice for the lighting sequence so here is a small video: For those of you where Youtube cry for a copyright infringement (soundtrack to match the car....), here is one that work (it was an earlier version without the embedded electronique like on these photos: If you have question, i'll be glad to answer them. Troll included.
  8. Pretty much as soon as pictures of the City Space 2019 sets appeared online, AFOLs were pointing out their conceptual similarities to Classic Space. I have taken that a step further by recolouring one of the 2019 sets, 60224 Satellite Service Mission, making it consistent with the Classic Space sets of the early to mid-1980s. It is not a true retro mod as the parts and building techniques are those of today, not those of 35+ years ago. So it should really be called Neo Classic Space. I replaced the minifigure with one more in keeping with the earlier period. The repositioning of the wingtips, if you're wondering, was not to make the ship more retro. I just think they look better attached underneath than on top. Here is the 2019 set: And here is my mod: I like to think that the satellite to be deployed by the ship will be communicating with the Classic Space mobile station (and ATV) I recreated a few years ago and still in my display collection: I haven't yet decided whether I will retro mod any of the other 2019 City Space sets. If anyone wants to post below their own mod of 60224 or indeed any other of this summer's releases, please do. I would be most interested in seeing what is out there. Questions, comments, classic colour confusion?
  9. It is my second try at creating a model the way Lego does but at the same time being as sleek and faithful to original as possible. It is not a 100% MOC, because it incorporates some basic structure techniques of 75101 mixed with 75211. 759 pieces plus 56 for a display stand. Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on FlickrImperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr
  10. AVCampos

    m:tron [MOD] B.A.T. Mobile

    Here is the Bio-containment Armoured Transport - Mobile, or "B.A.T. Mobile" for short. It is based on set 76112 App-Controlled Batmobile, with aesthetic changes to fit the M:Tron style. Instead of being only black (and sometimes very dark grey), it adopts the lovely M:Tron red-and-black with trans-neon-green colour scheme. I also extended the wheel axles to allow the addition of disks for a more futuristic look. Some of the changes were dictated by the lack of versions in the correct colours of some of the parts, most notably the black Tilted Corners 4X4 W/Angle (design ID 43708) in the front and the trans-red Cockpit 6X6X2 (Design ID 35331). Since this is M:Tron we're talking about, obviously I also had to remove the stud shooters. Other changes were mandated by the parts I had at hand... The bio-containment unit window at the top glows when the vehicle is loaded and ready to roll. I intend to bring it to Skærbæk Fan Weekend this year, for you to see it if you're interested.
  11. Hi! Today I’d like to show two small models. I’ve modified 42088 set. 1. Fire Ladder Truck: 2. Drilling Rig is more interesting. We can rotate the drill and also all drilling shaft moves down. If you like it you can download instructions on http://rebrickable.com Also I've filmed short video with English subtitles: Thanks for watching!
  12. Redimus

    Modified Emerald Night

    OK, so I have never made any secret that I think Emerald Night is crap. Odd proportions, terrible tender, complete lack of understanding of what several parts actually represent, looking *nothing* like the source material,.... I also know (from bitter experience) how difficult (and expensive) making a decent replacement is. After having built some really nice Pullmans, and building a disappointing pacific (which was miles better than EN), taking it apart, starting again, running out of inspiration, then getting made jobless so I couldn't afford to buy bits had I come up with an improved design, I decided to finally do something about my Emerald Night that had been sat in a corner with no wheels for at least 2 years. Things that I wanted to change: Give the front a footplate. Use the cylinder fix. Do something about that god awful (lack of) dome. Raise the cab so it doesn't look too daft with my coaches. Build a completely new tender (seriously, f**k that tender, that city cattle wagon was less lazy). Add lights and S Brick (which I had done a long while ago). So here are the results: Loco The new footplate, added tiles to the front bogie, replaced the green 1x6 plate with a black one, and the improved cylinder innards. New dome with S Brick underneath. Slightly raised cab. Tender The tender was a complete rebuild, but used basically the same chassis. It was however, a little lazy, and relied heavily on what I happened to already have. New Tender Completed Engine with Train. I intend to replace it with an actually good loco one day, but until inspiration and funds allow, this is a vast improvement.
  13. Hello all, When you are playing with your Lego creations, what remote control set-up/configuration do you use? The main one I use for my cars is a joystick and steering wheel combination: The other configuration I use is a 2 way joystick: The other MOD I have come across is the following link based one: More pictures are available at my Bricksafe account: http://bricksafe.com...remote-controls If you have any other modifications or set-ups you use, post them here. Thanks for reading, Jim
  14. I picked up this set recently and really like it, it’s pretty iconic and unique! I wasn’t happy with how high up Obiwan’s starfighter was positioned in the ring though, like everyone else I guess, so I’ve made a few simple changes which I hope improve the overall look. I lowered the ‘cross bar’ by about two bricks by first building up to instruction step 179 (leaving out the black pins in step 116 and skipping all the plate building steps 143 to 162) and then in step 180 connecting the upper trans Technic arms so that the 4L axle slotted in two holes lower down than in the instructions, see the pictures. Now the cams at the end of the cross bar still connected to the rim in step 182 but importantly hanging below those two LBG technic axle pin connectors (at 3 and 9 o’clock on the ring, built in steps 101 and 103). Then I added a single layer of bricks to the cross bar and built the plate docking area on top (following steps 143 to 162 missed earlier). I didn’t like those flappy panel pieces so further modified the dock area by taking them off, rearranging the curved slopes and adding a couple of new wedge plates on hinges that fit snugly either side of the fighters wings. For the whole mod I only added 22 new pieces and repositioned a few others; the white 2x10 plate and dark red inverted slopes under the fighter that get reused in the front of the dock, as does the dark red 1x6 tile and the 1x2 white tile (plus two white 1x1 plates) replaces it to support the fighter. Here’s a link to the Stud.io file showing those changes and how the trans-clear Technic pieces fit together, for clarity all the extra pieces are shown built blue and repeated spread out. https://www.dropbox.com/s/l4l4s4f68h1t5dl/MOD 75191 Jedi Starfighter.io?dl=0 And here’s a few more angles, because my description was probably as clear as mud! The mod is a long way from movie-accurate but I think the set definitely looks better with the starfighter closer to the centre of the ring and fitting more snugly in the dock. Getting the fighter to connect below the cross bar will require a big rebuild which I don’t really want to do but I may try to get it positioned further back, like in the film. I may also add more pieces to the docking area to smooth it out but for now this is an easy and cheap mod with a big visual effect. If you’ve got any other suggestions I’d be happy to hear them!
  15. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  16. Hello everyone! I'm finally here to show my simple modifications for the 75219 Imperial AT-Hauler set. Since the first concept pictures of this model leaked, I wanted it in Lego form. I really liked the overall look and the idea of a smaller imperial cargo ship, which could bring the walkers into battles. When the pics of the actual set released, it received a lot of criticism for its size and colour. I liked the appearance of the set, looked sturdy and I'm quiet liked the idea of the chosed colours. Probably when the build was designed, they had concept arts, where the final colour of the ship wasn't clear and I think the light bluish gray parts with white works well for very light gray, and it looks good with Imperial shuttles and Landing Crafts. It's not as big problem as the color of Kylo's Shuttle. Based on the official images, I have only 2 problems with the model. The first is the technic hook builds to hold the cargo, which is a decent play feature, but nut too accurate and doesn't look good too. The other problem I had, was the fact that only one figure could fit in the relatively big looking cockpit. As the instructions released for this set, I started working on this modification. Firstly I build one of the "arm" of the ship in LDD to see how could I fit the winches. I usually like to the minimum added parts when I modifying a set. When the LDD file for the whole set became available in the Official LEGO Sets made in LDD, I used that to finalizing the arms and started to make more room in the cockpit. I wanted to make big improvement with as fewer changes as possible. So here is it: Tutorial Winches Here is the original build at the beggining: For this modification you'll need this coupple parts. The first move is to remove the whole technic mechanism, which is part of the main play feature. For that, as first step, the plates from all three sides of both arms needs to remove. After that you could take apart the technic axles inside. I'll use a couple of pieces from the cargo, which is included in the set and spare parts as well. And here are all parts from the technic mechanism. The next step is to installing the string and the winch system, so firstly you secure the hooks to both strings with a knot. Than you have to lace through the string in the holes of the two light bluish gray L shaped pieces. You need use only the first two holes, after that you could pull the free ends of the strings out to sideways. The next thing to build is the winches, and its needs these parts. As the space is limited, we need the smallest parts what could use for its task. Because of that, the red technic bush will be our winch drum. You could lace the string trough the two opening of the bush and then you could put it on the axle. For placing this small assembly the long gray technic brick need to be removed from its place. You put together the two part and then you secure the winch drum with two light gray 1x3 liftarm and one small gray bush. You put back the whole thing to the arm and do the same thing on the other side. After that the plate sidings could go back to the sides of the arms and the you can put the steering wheel pieces to the dark gray axles. So here is the ship with the working winches, you could operate them by turning the steering wheels on the sides of the "wings". In the next step we remove the bigger technic panels and need to chang the position of the technic pieces on it. After you put back it to the underside of the wings, you can see that these change not only moves them down by 1 brick, but it becomes a stop to the wings, when you fold it in flight position. That doesn't let the wing to fold the wings to low, wich was another big problem of the original model. On these two pics you can see how the original one(left) is much lower than the modified one(right) Than comes a couple small details. You can add the smaller technic panels to the bigger ones and put dark gray pin connectors to the four exposed tan pins of the landing gears. And these parts can use on the front ends of the wings. Cockpit The problem with the cockpit is that it's designed to be very sturdy and solid, but unfortunately that makes the inside small. The main thing you could do is lowering the floor of it, but for that we need to take apart the whole structure. From the side panels we have to take off the black curved pieces, because they are in the way of the figures arms. The next thing to do is to put the gray wedges to the insides of the sidepanels from the outsides of them. OntThe original design, when you close the roof of the cockpit, it moves the sides out. With the wedges inside makes the side panels to reach the windshield and the distance between them allows the roof to fold properly. After the cockpit is completely taken apart, we need to rebuild its floor. With lower floor and thinner sides, we could fitt more figures inside, so we add a couple smal black panel pieces from the cargo container build and these will be our seats. In the original set the stickers for the controplanels is placed on a slope and on a tile, but I wanted to use two slopes(inspired by the cockpit of the set 75094), so I placed the sticker on a 2x3 black slope instead of the tile. After the floor is finished we need to rebuild the ship the same way as we disassembled it. So here is the final model. I'm very satisfied with this model. The winches working good and the look of the ship improved well. The cockpit could fit four minifigures total, it's a little bit crowded, but does its job. You could operate the winches very easy and with the two hooks you can lift up a lot of different things. If you needs mor stability to your cargo, then you can pull out a loop of the strings at the bottom of the wings, and you could hook those loops to a couple added pieces. Comparison with the oroginal(left): These are the leftover parts from the set: I didn't want to put the stickers to the cargo container, because they are such a cool designs and I want to use them in further MOCs, so I placed them on a couple of tiles. I really hope, you liked this small modification. The only thing, that I'm planning to design is a technic structure, what can grab the latest AT-ST. You can find my full album: Here
  17. Hi there, today I'd like to share a few simple and easy to do modifications on the 2018 75218 X-Wing. First off, the back section of the X-Wing has some issues. The top part of the back area doesnt smoothly continue all the way to the end, but rather cuts off towards the end. I fixed this by simply adding longer tiles and adding a 2x2 plate at the back. You could also use a 2x2 tile if you prefer. X Wing Back 2 by Sucram H, on Flickr I also redid the greebling by extending the middle part up by 1 stud so it's flush with the plate at the top. This gives the back a much better look if you ask me. X Wing Back 1 by Sucram H, on Flickr I also changed the colour of the actuator to change the wings from tan to dark grey, so it doesnt stand out as much. I would've removed the actuator altogether and replaced it with greebling, but I wanted to keep as many of the features intact as possible. Next I redmade the cannons so they didn't have the spring-loaded shooters on them. Normally I actually like having the shooters on my builds, but on this set they just look big and bulky. I also extended the ends of the cannons to make them longer and more accurate. X wing cannons by Sucram H, on Flickr I also managed to get rid of the gaps on either side of R2D2 by attaching a 1x2 jumper plate to both of his legs, which still allows you to take him in and out while making that area look a lot more complete. X Wing R2D2 1 by Sucram H, on Flickr So those are all the adjustments I've made so far, next on the to-do list would definitely be the huge gaps in the engines. I would love to get some feedback on this and perhaps some modifications that you guys have made to your X-Wings! For more pictures of my modificatons, check out my Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/sucram_h/
  18. Hi all! I've been trying to mod some of my older sets and after watching the new clone wars trailer, it showed a landed ARC 170 with landing gear, which i don't think we've seen anywhere else. It gives us a glimpse of the front landing gear but not the back. I have a simple solution for the front landing gear but the back is much more complicated. I have tried multiple options but none seem to work. This way the model will look nice but there isn't a way for the landing gear to support the heavy weight at the back. Also the landing gear doesn't fit in the middle as there is a gearbox that takes all the space. Does anyone have a solution?
  19. While I absolutely LOVE the exterior of the new Ghostbusters set, the interior was much in need of an overhaul! While it technically "seated" all four figs it did so rather comically. Here then, are my mods. It seats all four in the proper placement without affecting the exterior or seriously degrading the integrity of the structure. See other images here. As I have received requests for it, here is the LDD file: Ecto1-Mods.lxf
  20. One thing that bothers me is that when the hatch fully opens, I have to turn the switch back to neutral position, or else the fans will stop spinning. So in step 14, I replace the clutch gear with the normal 24z gear: while in step 20 I use two clutch gears instead. I tested this out and found out that the clutch gear on the wheel retraction side was too weak that it slips before moving the wheel. The clutch gear on the VTOL side does slip too just not as often. So totally NOT recommend this MOD.
  21. Hello, I am new here, this is my first post, and my english isnt perfect, so sorry for any mistakas ;) I was worked on this project for long time (its still not finished...), and now I can show some pics. Its cabin from Arocs 42043, but all the rest is my design ( I would like to notice, theres some designs, from people on youtube, this forum etc, because if something is good, I dont want to invent it a second time :D ) Soo... TRUCK Cabin has suspension - rubber blocks Drive - 6x4 - XL motor Steering - Ackerman system - Servo motor Suspension - Front - Solid axle on leaf springs (this springs are made by Efferman, you can buy this parts on Shapeways) -Rear - Solid axles on leaf springs and air assist ( system, that minimizes stress, works like tandem-axles, air pistons are connected all together, so if one axle is going up, second axle is going down without pressure change) You can change height of rear axle/rear part of truck, like real one) 2x air connections for trailer 1x connection for trailer engine TRAILER (its not perfect, I want to use power from truck, so theres no battery box etc) Suspension like in truck, but no air assist Detach deck by pins, they are moved by air piston I will rebuild it, because I want make it better. any Q just post it, if You want more pics etc i will try to make it for You. I have no instructions, because I like to build like "sit & build" no programs, projects etc, but, i will try to help, if someone want ;) PHOTOS > https://bricksafe.com/pages/Hubbo/
  22. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.
  23. For a few months I've been playing around with redesigning the 10215 UCS Obi-Wan Starfighter (Delta-7 Aethersprite) with a few objectives in mind: Change the colour scheme to match Anakin's Delta-7, as per the Clone Wars animated series... but only in bricks. Improve the canopy to rear cockpit lines so that the curve is smoother and continuous. Have landing gear that can carry the weight of the set Have the option of a droid socket in front of the cockpit. Ideally this would be sized to fit the 30611 R2-D2 polybag build. As is always the case with a Lego design/build, compromises are made between style, colours, parts availability/count, function, build stability, etc. I've redesigned pretty much every aspect of the original design, with only a few core elements left untouched. The wings, engine shrouds, central hull and cockpit have all been changed extensively. I've yet to build this in bricks, so I don't know if what I've chosen so far will work. I do know that some of the pieces I've selected aren't available in the colours I want. Here's a few test renders. I'd be interested to hear anyones thoughts and feedback on how to improve this.
  24. This is the final version of my Imperial TIE Fighter based on original LEGO sets. I've made PDF step-by-step instructions as well. If anyone would like to build this one, instructions are available at rebrickable.com for 6,99 Euro here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-19900/barneius/imperial-twin-ion-engine-fighter/#comments Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by barneius, on Flickr
  25. It was about a year ago and it was my very first, long (3 waves of bricklink orders) and enjoyable try on building something big and different than official Lego set. I started with the idea of just fixing the "wings problem" and replacing all light blueish gray pieces for mostly black ones. The inspiration for the construction for that came from Rebel Builder's technic hinges technique (credits!). When I was done I realized it is so majestic, it really deserves to be in black. And there it is... :) I made lots of different modifications both in wings and fuseloge. They are mostly not visible but very important to make it sturdy enough not to come apart during play with the wings position. And I was happy to manage the goal. What I was really proud of were the guides for the wings that prevent them from wobbling in any position or direction. The very front part with the mean red windows is designed as in Jang's version of this MOD (BIG Up Jang!). I do not know if I made it the same way as he did, but the shape is, as far as i recognize, the same and in my opinion absolutely perfect. I would really recommend this MOD to everyone, because the end result is much more than pleasing. Of course if you do not own 75104 and want to built the black beast, don't buy official Lego set, because you would replace most of parts. Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr