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[MOC] Ferrari Monza SP1 & SP2
Cardboy posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
This is my version of the Ferrari Monza SP1 & SP2 in 1:8 scale. There are two models in ‘one’. I designed this model to be played with as well as look good on a shelf like a proper Lego set should be You can get he instructions here Features and Functions: · opening doors, bonnet/hood and boot/trunk · independent suspension · Akerman steering geometry · 8 + N + R sequential gearbox without the need for a drive and reverse selector (inspired by Anto) · paddle shift gear selection · rear-wheel drive · detailing on the interior, virtual windscreen and engine Dimensions: Length: 73 Studs (59cm); Width: 35 Studs (28cm); Height: 17.5 Studs (14cm) Weight: 2.8 Kg -
[MOC] Lego Technic Fishing Boat
makushima posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
MOC Lego Technic Fishing Boat Building Instructions: removed until a proper presentation is made Lego Technic MOC - Fishing Boat (Building Instructions) Lego Technic MOC - Fishing Boat (Building Instructions) Lego Technic MOC - Fishing Boat (Building Instructions) Lego Technic MOC - Fishing Boat (Building Instructions) Lego Technic MOC - Fishing Boat (Building Instructions) Lego Technic MOC - Fishing Boat (Building Instructions) -
It's finally finished! Luas full length Luas is the tram here in Dublin, and I've been wanting to build one for a long time. I started about a year ago, when I got the general concept for the cars figured out, but then abandoned it for a while. Sometimes the inspiration just isn't there... Anyway, over the past few weeks I figured out the cabin, the connections between the sections, improved the doors, which required a different way of doing the roof.... One thing I decided right at the start is that I wanted to do the micro-stripe yellow above the purple. The first idea was to use brackets (1x2/2x2 and 1x2/2x4) and you can still see those in the middle section. Luas middle section However for the outer sections I had to change the concept, as the plate part of the brackets got in the way of the sideways built doors. I ended up using flags, but getting enough of them in yellow and in the old mold (the clip is slightly different in the newer ones, and unfortunately Bricklink doesn't differentiate) was not easy. It's powered by a 9V train motor in the middle and it can manage the tight curves: Luas inside curve It does have a bit of an overhang, so don't park close to the tracks ;-) Figuring out the shape of the 'dressed up' bogies was not easy, despite the simplicity of the final design. Getting the bodie shape around them was even harder. The connectors between sections were another headache that's gone through umpteen different designs. In reality they're an accordion-type structure which is impossible in Lego. So I needed something that would keep the sections close on the straights, and would allow the tram to go around standard curves without showing a big ugly gap. For transport it also had to be easy to take the sections apart and for reliable running the connection has to have some flex when the track isn't perfectly level. I managed to do all of that:
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[MOC] Lego Technic Military Truck (Building Instructions)
makushima posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
MOC Lego Technic Military Truck Building Instructions: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=max.technic.building.instructions Lego Technic MOC - Military Truck (Building Instructions) Lego Technic MOC - Military Truck (Building Instructions) -
Hi! CP Comboios de Portugal recently gave a new color to the Nez Casse loco 2628, based on the former CP4700 from CP Carga (sold/turned to Medway) I have to be honest, I still have mixed feelings about this new livery, the orange is an iconic and complete eye-catcher, and still my favorite. However, making this one in LEGO started to grow on me. I will take some pictures alongside my Arco Coaches as soon as possible. the usual shout out to Raised and his NS1600/1800 and the Enhancements made by Erwin and Nicolas Tbx, my Nose/box design is based on their models. Circa 2000 parts 1Kg 43cm long 2 Powerfunctions L motors Buwizz 2.0 Custom working Lights Custom Vynil stickers designed by Tiago Vasconcelos
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I'm happy to present my most recent build, a midwestern grain train from the late 1970's in the US. I've been working on it for most of this year, though the inspiration and some parts purchases date back to 2006. Towards the end of last winter I had been train watching and after about a half dozen trains, each led by a couple of black locomotives pulling a mile long monochromatic string of cars, it got me thinking about an underappreciated heyday. Between 1960 and 1990 American freight cars were a burst of color, and even had a few hints of the old school railroad pride shining through, e.g., Milwaukee Road spending the extra dollar to weld a plate on the side of their covered hoppers declaring themselves "America's Resourceful Railroad." The freight cars were 100% utilitarian in design, but in the bright colors they went a little further and said, "look at me," with each car taking a different hue. Since then, freight cars have drifted back to browns and grays only flashing a random graffiti tag for flare after a night of hanging around with the wrong crowds. I wanted to capture that era in the days just after KarTrak Automatic Car Identification's failure showed how dirty railroading in America can be. But how and what? I've always had a soft spot for covered hopper cars, in particular those based on the Pullman Standard 3 bay design. I had a go at these cars in 2006 Shortly thereafter, I started collecting 1x2 door rail plates and double convex inverted slopes in yellow to build a Milwaukee Road version. Those parts sat in a box and I hadn't returned to that prototype until now. On the flip side, I had most of the parts in hand that I needed to start testing this build. Happy with the prototype, I expanded to 5 different liveries. These covered hoppers are 6 wide, featuring custom decals. With their weight they need roller bearing trucks, to ensure the trucks match the width of the car they use custom truck sides from TrainedBricks.com. At this scale it is impossible to get all of the details, so in this design I focused on capturing the essence, e.g., a continuous slope for the bins from the end of the car to the bottom of the chute, using thin vertical and horizontal members on the ends of the cars. Several of the cars have prototypical placards 1/2 plate out from the ribbing. A couple of the cars consumed almost all of the double convex inverted slopes available on bricklink in the given color. As with most of my designs, these cars are designed to negotiate R40 curves, and in turn, replicating the form of the prototype gave me a true appreciation of the design of the actual cars. Of course, once you start down the rabbit hole of looking at covered hopper cars, you wind up seeing lots of other cool cars... and the potential to build in colors that do not have door rails (dark green). Well, next thing I knew, I also had a design for the ACF center flow covered hopper cars. Once more the covered hoppers are 6 wide. These cars were designed as a complement to the Pullman Standard cars to fill out the fleet and bring in a few more colors/liveries. Why stop at 8 cars? Good question, of course you need a Canadian cylindrical covered hopper, who doesn't need a cylindrical hopper car? So I built one too. Now I know you've all been there, you build a MOC and then discover you need a second MOC to support the first MOC (or in this case, a 10th MOC to support the first 9). When I started out I did not worry too much about what would pull these cars. I have a few period appropriate 9v locomotives, most recent of which are from 2014, a pair of SW1200's. While there was one major solution (FX Track) two problems remained, (1) my old 9v locomotives were not powerful enough to pull the full train, and (2) it has been over a decade since I've run 9v trains in public. I originally thought that I would eventually address #2 at some later point in time, but #1 escalated the need. So off I went to build a period appropriate PF locomotive. I returned to MNS, the same road as the SW1200's. Minneapolis Northfield and Southern was a spunky shortline with a long history and a large fan club for a railroad with just over 80 miles of track. They had a history of unusual locomotives starting with their predecessor, the never electrified Dan Patch Electric Lines and the first successful gas-electric locomotive that was the predecessor to diesel electric locomotives, to a fleet of massive Baldwin center cab locomotives built in the late 40's (nicknamed the "blue dragons"), and their last purchased locomotives the SD39's in 1968. These were essentially SD40's with smaller prime movers (and thus, lower horsepower). They were painted in a distinct dark blue with a single white stripe running the length of the locomotive. The SD39's served until the MNS was purchased by Soo Line in 1982 and one has returned to the shortline (Progressive Rail) that now operates a portion of the old MNS route. My 6 wide SD39 has a lot packed inside, including 2 PF train motors, 1 rechargeable PF battery pack, an IR receiver, a pole reverser, and four weight bricks. Fitting it all in required some compromises, like filling the cab with the IR receiver, and my desire to make the white stripe brick built as much as possible made fitting the battery a lot more complicated. One obvious tradeoff is that the long hood is 5 studs wide to hide the battery, I would have preferred to keep it 4 studs wide. But also a little ingenuity to plow through some of the challenges. If you look closely at the side views, just above the fuel tank you can seek a small patch of dark gray from the battery. I used an old school 4.5v motor plate with 4x8 cutout to drop the battery down below the white stripe and snotted studs to hold the tiles on that cover the side of the battery. The build uses custom stickers, 3-axle motor covers and fan housings from trainedbricks.com, and custom railings to keep them closer to proportional than the brick built alternatives. But I did have to use the classic train wagon ends as a nod to the fact that this is a Lego train after all. Okay... just one more problem, I didn't have a respectable MNS caboose. So now I needed an 11th MOC to support the 10th. The MNS purchased 3 new bay window cabooses in 1972 and like the SD39's, these served until the MNS was purchased by Soo Line in 1982 and one has returned to the shortline (Progressive Rail) that now operates a portion of the old MNS route. The caboose is 6 wide (8 at the bays), featuring custom decals, roller bearing trucks to match the hopper cars. The net result is my all new MNS grain train, with 5 Pullman Standard 3 bay covered hopper cars, 3 ACF 3 bay covered hopper cars, 1 Canadian cylindrical covered hopper car, an MNS SD39 and MNS bay window caboose. All in liveries that would have been seen in the late 1970's or early 1980's. The total length is about 11 ft. All of the cars are 6 wide. Click here for a mediocre video of the train in action I hope you enjoy the train. Questions, comments and constructive suggestions are always welcome The full album is here
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So I’ve always flip-flopped between sci-fi and fantasy themes. After spending several years firmly building spaceships I’ve decided to give a castle and medieval village build a go. My style is always with play in mind and some leeway towards historical accuracy. This is very much a work in progress. My aim is to make something sort of modular, not just to rearrange but to make it easier to move to allow my kids to play with it. I have another experimental build I tried, a half timbered house in the black and white style that I want to try and incorporate. Thoughts and comments very welcome! So you can see the overall plan, a quadrangular castle with a central keep, able to be closed up and opened. All off the corner towers and wall sections are connected with pins. Gate section. I intend to add a drawbridge style gate to the front. With chains if possible. Apart from some small variations in the colours, all four corners are the same. The two side walls again are quite similar. The SNOT bricks I plan to use for some kind of climbing foliage. I also plan on making small sub builds to connect to the inside of the walls; a forge and smithy, a pig pen, a small half timbered lodge, a storage pile etc. Something to give it some life. The longer of the two rear wall halves has the bridge to the keep. And the keep itself. I plan on another floor, which may have some half timbered extensions, and a roof top access. Interior-wise, the bottom floor has the dungeon and cellar. The middle will have a small hall and for the top I think a bed chamber makes sense. I want to add details to this section like torches on the walls, trophies, other decorations. I’ll add more pictures of the half timbered house I’ve started, as well as other sun builds and progress pictures as I go, as well as the figs I think will inhabit here. I welcome feedback and suggestions for other details and sub builds. Thank you for taking the time to go through this.
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Welcome to the Olympic Gardens! I'm by no means an engineer, but I started out wanting to create a beautiful domed European-style modular. There was going to be a tower, and a balcony, and an arcade along the front, to enhance my city layout. I got to the bottom of the dome and it did NOT translate well to the tower portion. The angles were terrible! So instead, I pivoted and turned it into a garden pavilion. And I like the result so much better! Some of my favorite parts are the planters holding the cypress trees. The main portion is a technic piece that makes a really cool textured planter. I'm a big fan of gardens and fountains, so there's tons of flowers and greenery in the finished build, and a main fountain up on the level with the pavilion. The cow horns near the bottom of the model (under the arches) were originally supposed to be teacups, but I didn't realize until too late that the pieces were too big for the gaps until later. So it's just a cool bit of statuary now. I plan to try and recreate this MOC in real bricks soon, as soon as I can order new bricks. It has more of a diorama style footprint than I normally do in my MOCs, so I can display the finished model on my shelf. There's tons of little details hidden in the scene as well, such as animals and lost coins, and bees everywhere. The flower bushes in the planters at the top of the stairs utilize a cool little piece with three studs, where I inserted the vines and green wolverine claws. The koi tiles are my absolute favorite, so I knew I had to include some in the build. I also like to make up primary stories to go with the MOCs I build, and for this one, the lady gets a text to meet her friend the artist at the park for a portrait painting. I also like the little grapes in the garden pavilion, they give it more of a pastoral atmosphere that I like to see in real-life gardens. The only thing that's really silly is that the balustrade on the side is a bit off center compared to the main balustrades, but that's something I can tinker with more when I build it in real bricks. Thanks for reading, and I appreciate any comments! :) Edit: I've created a time-lapse of the digital build, you can see it below: It took a lot longer to edit than to take all the photos, video software likes to keep crashing when you add 2,766 photos to it and try to shorten the frame length all at once!
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Hiya! Here is the final mech in this series. This time around, I started with the helmet and worked my way out. Part availability in Dark Brown definitely played a role in the direction that the model took. Hope you like it! "We're putting the band back together, we need you man!' by Greg Dalink, on Flickr Zuckuss Utility-Class Battle Mech by Greg Dalink, on Flickr Zuckuss Utility-Class Battle Mech by Greg Dalink, on Flickr
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Terra Station Z is a space station which be used for researching ores. Inside the Ore Research Centre, there are several research devices and robotic devices for splitting ores. Theres also an motorized conveyor belt for transporting the ores inside the station. Theres also a communication centre, for communication with spaceships and controlling/monitoring drones. This was a part of our Lowlug community Neo Classic Space layout. 01_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 02_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 08_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 11_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 13_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr 14_Terra_Station_Z by Mathijs Bongers, on Flickr Pictures also on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/mathijslegofan/albums/72177720311251724/with/53191969795/
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[MOC] - Lego Technic Cartoon Truck (Building Instructions)
makushima posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Lego Technic Cartoon Truck (Building Instructions) Building Instructions: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=max.technic.building.instructions Lego Technic Cartoon Truck - Color Version (Building Instructions) Lego Technic Cartoon Truck - Black and White Version (Building Instructions) -
Small Hummer - 42102 Mini CLAAS XERION Alternative Build (Building Instructions) Building Instructions: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=max.set42102.alternative.models Small Hummer - 42102 Mini CLAAS XERION Alternative Build (Building Instructions)
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[MOC] EAGLE an RC Trophy Truck
Daniel-99 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hey, guys! After a 3-month brake from Lego, I am glad to show you my new RC trophy truck, called Eagle. I apologise for the quality of photos and I will try to improve them later after I will get myself a studio light. I will also make a proper introductory video when I will get enough outdoor footage. Features Responsive long-travel suspension with 4-link live-axle at the rear and double wishbone at the front Brushless motor A2212 1200 kv for propulsion, Geek Servo for steering, 1500 mAh 3S Li-Po for power Strong and efficient transmission with metal U-joints and metal bearings. Great ground clearance for outdoor use, 95 mm RC wheels Light-weight bodywork Experience and Inspiration I guess that nobody will be surprised If I would make a confession that I have a deep passion for Trophy trucks. This type of vehicle suits the best for the role of a fast RC Lego cars which are build for outdoors. Indeed, outdoor environment is always rough and "bumpy" for Lego cars. I took my inspiration and first experience form several well-known Lego builders, such as: Sariel RM8 ZeroBricks GooberReboot Through the last 3 years of intensive engineering I made a few attempts in building myself a "proper" trophy truck. Each of them had it`s own features and technical problems: Heavy-duty Trophy Truck: RWD, 2x BM, 2x Buwizz 3.0 units, 95mm wheels. Problems: "big scale" which caused a serious load for motors, over-tilted front caster. Phantom: RWD, 2x BM, Leshy control unit, 85mm wheels, mid scale. Problems: lack of power from Leshy unit, lack of articulation at the rear, plastic wearing in the wheel hubs. Wilde Beast: 4WD, 4x BM, Wixy RC control + 3S Lipo, 95mm wheels. Problems: "big scale" which caused a serious load for motors, indep. susp. with a questionable geometry. Falcon: 4WD, 4x BM, Wixy RC control + 3S Lipo, 75mm wheels. Problems: indep. susp. with a questionable geometry, overheating of motors at the maximal RPM. About a year ago I switched from Lego Buggy motors to a Brushless motor (for the reasons which will be covered later). This was not an easy switch for me and I had to learn some RC electronics theory and find the proper ways of using brushless motors with Lego. My latest RC cars with Brushless motors was: Unimog trial truck Pathfinder SUV Hornet 4x4 buggy With pathfinder and Unimog projects I studied the 4-link live-axle suspension geometry, while with Hornet project I found the way to achieve a proper suspension and steering geometry with my custom wheel hubs. With this projects completed I get myself all cars I need. - What should I build next? With such question in mind, I faced a deep burnout from Lego, so I decided to take a summer brake. Hot summer days returned me my passion for Lego, and I had a plenty of time to plan a new project. I felt myself ready to make another attempt in building myself a "proper" trophy truck. That is how the story begins. Electronics With my latest truck Falcon I reached the limit of what Buwizz motors could handle. Some time ago there was a discussion about efficiency and power-to-weight ratio. I would not resist that with the growing number of motors and Buwizz units, one could get a better power-to-weight ratio, though such a way faces the problem of plastic-weariness quite soon. With the growth of the number of motors, also grows the size of the car and it`s total weight, which get distributed to the four Lego plastic wheel hubs! I faced the plastic-weariness problem of Lego hubs with my Phantom truck, and solved it by purchasing custom wheel hubs with metal bearings, which I were used in the Falcon truck. Moreover, there was no gearing in the transmission of the Falcon truck: each wheel was connected to it`s own motor via driveshaft with metal bearings. With 4x Buwizz motors on board, powered by strong 3S Li-Po battery, Falcon had a great power-to-weight ratio. Through multiple tests I found that It can not handle full throttle for more than 45 seconds due to the rear motor overheating. It was pretty clear to me that RC Li-Po could easily overfeed 8 or even 12 motors with power, so there was no sense in adding more BM motors. Likely to me, one Russian AFOL developed a 3D-printed housing for Brushless A2212 motor which allowed to use it with Lego. I purchased two sets from him, and mot I have 100% RC setup. There was no problem with the lack of power or motor overheating anymore, but it was a real challenge for me to overcome this energy! Transmission With BM motors it is very natural to distribute the torque among axles \ wheels, by having separate transmissions to each axle \ wheel. But with Brushless motor I had to use "realistic" transmission, since there is only one output with a plenty of speed and torque. Despite the fact this motor is a baby-motor in the world of RC cars, It has enough power to twist Lego axles with instant reaction to the throttle. Custom 3D-printed housing has a 4:1 planetary reduction, but the speed of the output is enough to cause gear-melting. That is why the following decisions were made: use metal U-joints all around, most of them have a 3L lego axle glued from one side to prevent them from falling off. use silicone grease to lubricate the planetary gear in the motor housing and some external gearings. use custom parts with metal bearings to separate the transmission from the car frame. use carbon-fiber axles in the central driveshafts. The new Eagle truck has a very simple RWD transmission with a single "external" 14:23 gearing in the differential. Recall, that the 3D-printed motor housing has a 4:1 gear reduction. So the motor is connected to the differential via carbon-fiber driveshaft. From the differential power translates to the 95 mm RC wheels via half-axles with metal U-joints. The whole transmission sit on the metal bearings (custom wheel hubs with metal bearings, custom 5x7 frame with metal bearings for differential housing, motor output passes through the connector with the metal bearing). Surely you have noticed that I lifted the central differential by one stud over the wheel axle in order to achieve a higher ground clearance! Which differential to use RED or YELLOW? RED differential has a 28:12 reduction which reduces the load from the driveshaft and the motor. Moreover, such gear ratio is more realistic. On the other hand, YELLOW differential has bigger teeth so it is stronger. But more importantly, is that YELLOW differential is 125% more efficient than the RED one, since it has bigger gears and does not scratch the 5x7 frame under the load. In fact, I am using a custom torsen differential with 23-tooth gear. It also does not scratch the 5x7 frame and hold half-axles much stronger than the original YELLOW diff. Suspension Trophy truck is all about suspension, and it was the most challenging part for me! Non of my previous trophy trucks has a proper suspension: it was either rear live-axle without articulation (Phantom, heavy-duty trophy truck) or independed rear suspension (Wilde Beast, Falcon). As I found from multiple driving tests of Phantom, rear axle need an articulation, cause otherwise RWD car loose the speed on bumps. IRS give the desired articulation and stability, moreover it is very simple to build and it has a low unsprung mass. Despite that IRS has a limited articulation and it is not presented in real Trophy Trucks either! Lego engineers designed a ball-joint connection, which is used in many Trophy trucks. It gives a single-lever suspension (with it`s simplicity and stiffness) and desirable articulation. Well, I did not use it, since it has no metal bearings for the U-joint inside the ball. So I had to replicate the 4-link live axle. 12-long reinforced suspension arms, invested upper triangle, 9.5 L springs, attached to the mid of lower suspension arms, Anti row-bar with a carbon-fiber axle, Now let`s move the the front suspension. Surely, real Trophy Truck has a complex front suspension, which is impossible to replicate with lego bricks. Though lego-ish version share important principles with real prototypes: double wishbone with 8L suspension arms (9L was too wide here) Positive caster angle Reinforced lower arms Shock is attached to the lower arm closer to the center of the car Steering rack is located in the front of the car Again I use custom wheel hubs with metal bearings. They have an inverted lower arm mounting point, though it is possible to use Lego hubs instead. With hart 9.5 L springs the front suspension has a long travel, moreover it has a great balance btw softness and responsiveness + side-way support. Bodywork & Frame In order to achieve a positive caster angle I tilted the lower part of the frame. At the same time, the upper part of the frame. At the very front of the car upper and lower parts of the frame meets together which form the "almost right-angle" triangle with lengths: 13+1, 14+1 and 5+1. (right-angle triangle has the following lengths: 12+1, 13+1 and 5+1). Second time I use the Pythagoras theorem to make a force triangle for the rear springs attachment points. I tried to keep the frame of the truck in 13-15 studs wide, to use 15L liftarms for cross braces. I was Luckily to me I was able to squeeze all electronics into cockpit. This give the model 50:50 weight distribution and a "low" (for such high car) gravity center. Well, one would prefer to obtain 35:65 weight distribution for the RWD truck, but It would raise the gravity center and would require extra structure over the rear axle. The whole bodywork consist of 24 panels and a few bricks, so it does not cause much weight to the truck. -
Maelstrom spider boss (from LEGO Universe) - real world build of a digital Rebrickable MOC
Murdoch17 posted a topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
Arachnophobes look away now, because the Maelstrom spider boss is BACK! As seen in the cinematic trailer (link to Youtube) for LEGO Universe, The Spider Boss was imagined by Baron Typhonus as a creature of pure chaos in the Mythran Temple and brought to life by the power of the Imagination Nexus. The Baron created the Spider Boss to demonstrate the possibilities of Imagination without rules. The Spider smashed a Robot Dog (that had just been created by Doctor Overbuild) and moved to attack Duke Exeter, Dr.Overbuild, and Hael Storm as Baron Typhonus laughed in triumph. However, creatures of chaos serve no master; the Spider turned on Typhonus and dragged him into the Imagination Nexus. This action corrupted the Nexus and mutated it into the Maelstrom. I recreated this MOC from instructions on Rebrickable by user Brigs, as seen here. I had to change some parts' colors around (as it wasn't buildable in original form without selling a kidney), and other parts were weakly attached. For example: Those two black wedge slopes on the rear of the body were originally purple, but couldn't be bought in quantity due to them being from one 2014 X-Men set. This made it impossible to get them at a reasonable price. That's all for now, thoughts and comments are always appreciated! -
Pippin is trying to explain that they're lost but Merry's not listening - he's just found a biscuit in his pocket! Just playing around with a few ideas ahead of a much bigger moc I'm planning. This is one is a test of a waterfall/stream technique I wanted to try. I got hold of about 30 this part and figured it might make a decent flowing water effect. But in the end it was a lot more difficult than I anticipated because there's not much back/forward rotation in the clips. I ended up with quite a few 'illegal' connections, although I think they could be designed out with a bit of planning. I quite like the end result - I think I got some of the flowing movement I was after, although I next time I'm going to try adding some tan/dark tan under the water pieces to simulate the stream bed. Hopefully it will help emphasise the effect more. Anyway, hope you enjoy the pics - comments/suggestions welcome! Edit: Thanks for the frontpage!
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Hi everyone! After a brief 'dark age' spanning a few years, I've now designed and built a new cargo train locomotive. I wanted something that exudes a sense of 'heavy industry' and initially created a prototype that didn't quite meet my expectations (see image bellow). This model takes inspiration from both the Lego Creator Maersk train, incorporating most of its general structure, and the Polish SM31 shunter locomotives. The locomotive showcases a sleek, black exterior accented with yellow and white details. Because of the primary color, I affectionately named it the "Coffin" locomotive, akin to the real-life SM31's nickname (Trumna). The locomotive closely resembles parts of the the distinctive SM31 train, and the cabin is designed for a minifigure operator, complete with a control panel. Additionally, it's equipped with Power Functions, including a battery box, a train motor, and an IR receiver. Before settling on the black color scheme, I explored various digital iterations, considering options like yellow, red, blue, and green. Ultimately, I chose black for its cost-effectiveness, leveraging parts I already owned.However, it did result in the photos having slightly lower quality due to the darkness of black. The digital model is readily available for download using Lego Studio: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-158217/Brickviller/coffin-heavy-shunter-locomotive/#details The prototype version, mostly based on an elongated version of the red cargo train 3677. Please take note: Although the digital model featured a light bluish-grey windscreen piece, I discovered that no such part exists in that color when I started building it. I sourced the piece from a custom vendor, and it's not an official Lego component. In the future, I plan to replace it with an original Lego piece in white, which is readily available.
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Hey everyone! A month ago I showed you my Sächsische IV K. Now I want to show you its smaller predecessor, the Sächsische I K. This locomotive was used in the early days of the Saxon state railways, and were built between 1881 and 1892. They served on various narrow gauge railways up till the late 60s, when all of them were scrapped. In 2006 a plan was made to build a new I K, which was finished in 2009. Sadly in September of 2022 the locomotive was heavily damaged in a collision with a road vehicle. Reparations are still ongoing. To go with it I made a crude Ommr Flatbed railcar. Please tell me what you think! -GPM-
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This idea for a shipwreck has been with me for long years, only to be realized because of this contest. My main goal was to present a wreck modified into a cabin-like living space. He's been stuck there for a bit now, and will have to wait for the rescue still. Therefore once the main structure was done, I focused on adding things ensuring his survival. A barrel of water, a jolly roger for visibility's sake, a lantern just in case. (I've included a bottle of rum which played a big part in him landing there in the first place) The gun will be used to signal, but until then it will serve to reinforce the side of the build. Unless he needs to defend himself. The backside of the wreck, admittedly a large number of pieces went into it, but it just didn't feel right without. The other side, I used the same fence piece and the same 1x6 plate for consistency's sake. The bowsprit's placement was a bit of a headache. Lastly a closeup. Once I placed the mustache on him, I knew it had to stay on. Originally I built it in LDD, he had a different face with the eye patch on the other eye. It gave me a laugh so I left the telescope as is. Signed up for this contest because the piece count limit sounded challenging, and a challenge it was. Didn't even reach the halfway point before I realized this build would need at least 70 pieces. Keeping it at 50 was a constant uphill battle, I had to make very hard decisions. Took weeks of fine tuning. There's a silver lining here, thanks to the low piece count, it's compressed to the point it feels authentic. it's also one my sturdiest moc yet. probably. I have extensive builder notes, LDD and Stud.io files, models of previous versions and even a bad ms paint concept art if you'd like some more insight. I plan to extend this tiny island in the future with two more 50 piece/moc structures to expand the story.
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1960s London Routemaster double-deck bus - 75957 MOD - real world MOC
Murdoch17 posted a topic in LEGO Town
This LEGO version of the famous double-deck AEC Routemaster bus (Wikipedia link if you care to read up on this famous bus type) is a mashup of 2019 Harry Potter set 75957 - Knight Bus, albeit scaled back a bit. This model required a bit of changes to the originally purple triple-deck bus... more than you might expect, actually! Sadly, the original three-studs-long windows aren't yet available in red, (even after all these years!) so I made do with different windows. The rear of the bus. The sand green 1x4 tiles are advertising billboards. Sadly, neither the roof nor second level come off to seat figs inside. The family of Buses is complete! From left to right with a link to each bus's own topic: Knight Bus (from Harry Potter films), Routemaster (you are here), Bertie the bus (from Thomas and Friends). Thoughts? -
After buying Eldorado Fortress, and not having bought Barracuda Bay when it came out, my brother and I thought about making a pirate build to go up against Eldorado Fortress. After looking at the classic pirates hideouts and forts, we decided upon Rock Island Refuge. So we bought the Redbeard and crewmates from Barracuda Bay off of bricklink, and started building. Similar to Eldorado fortress, Rock island refuge can take its classic form or turn into an elongated shape, perfect for displaying. The fortress has a full interior including a kitchen, desk for Redbeard/mapping area, a treasure stash hidden under a trapdoor, an armory, sleeping quarters and a prison cell, which can be broken open using a lever. Outside there is also multiple docks with a cannon, a crane, two ratlines on the sides and two rope bridges. There are also 2 watercrafts, a raft and a small bluecoat rowboat Overall, we love the final product, and hope you do too
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Hi this is the same model as CP1401 but with the classic blue color scheme It has 2 PF train motors Buwizz 2.0 Ludricous (But I don't use the Ludricous mode, this is not a High-speed train :P) DYI Lights It can run alone or synchronize with the CP1401. This is part of my Consist "CP Miradouro Phase 2" which has 2 Locomotives and 5 Coaches Now, some " CP Miradouro" consists The funny thing about the real-life train is the inconsistency of the rolling stock, it's almost impossible to see the same train twice, sometimes it's just two coaches, sometimes it has two locomotives, sometimes are fully colourful with several different coaches, sometimes are the same colors, etc Now the full train has 3,60meters long, but unfortunately I don't have enough room or backdrop to take a nice photo.
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A historic tram connects Sintra to one of its most popular beaches, Praia das Maçãs. The line was inaugurated in 1904, but today's red vehicle dates from the 1930s. It maintains its original features, such as wooden benches and brass dials, and while it’s a slow, noisy, and bumpy ride, it’s a fun experience. The complete 13km(8 miles)-journey takes 40 minutes, passing through the rural areas of Colares towards the coast. The LEGO model has around 2000 parts (including the base/diorama) and it's motorized with Circuit Cubes it has 2 motors, One for driving, and another to invert the Rod "Panthograph" It has Room for 16 minifigs.
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Ahoy there! This is an entry for the Mini Set Category. In the middle of the Caribbean, there is a tiny island with a palm tree where the fearless pirate Cutlass Jane hides here treasure. A skull marks the spot! Use the shovel to remove the sand and reveal the shiny doubloons! This 30-piece set also includes a small tub and paddle that she can use to get to the island. This would be the first mini set to feature a female pirate! I hope ye fancy me entry. Comment away, mateys!
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[MOC] - 25 Years of Adventure Cat. A - The Oasis Ambush
Bricknave posted a topic in LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
25 Years of Adventure Category A The Oasis Ambush A rebuild of one of my favorite Adventurers sets: 5938: Oasis Ambush. Despite being a small set, 5938 has almost everything a kid could ask for: A good guy, a bad guy, hidden treasure for them to find, danger to overcome, and a working function of some kind! Plus, the original model itself is unique, recognizable, and lends itself well to re-imaginings. Not only does my re-imagining include the tomb, the palm tree, the mummy, the scorpion, OG Sam Sinister / Slyboots, and (of course) Johnny Thunder, but it also includes an oasis and ... Well, an ambush. Actually, two ambushes of sorts. Johnny Thunder, blissfully unaware, bathes in the oasis after wandering the desert for days in search of the tomb. He brought his trusty comb and hand-mirror to help him stay clean, but in the corner of the mirror he catches a glimpse of something ... Slyboots! Or is it Sam Sinister? Anyway, Slyboots has managed to ambush Johnny Thunder. He has swiped the Golden Spear, and clearly has the upper hand. However, grabbing the Spear has awakened ... (EXTRA PHOTO) ... The Mummy, eyes glowing red, out to punish the one who dislodged the Golden Spear! The impetus for making Johnny Thunder get ambushed while bathing stemmed from the fact that his only expression is a smiling one. If he was ambushed by someone, and that someone was in plain view, he probably wouldn't be smiling. A chain was almost connected to the spear and to the lid of the tomb. Although pulling the chain is easy to do with the original set (5938), this would probably take considerable force for a Minifigure to do, so Slyboots probably wouldn't be able to casually pull the chain while aiming a pistol at Johnny. Instead, I settled on a magical explanation for the tomb's opening. A few creatures were scattered throughout the build to give life to the oasis. See if you can find them! Thanks for viewing! -
[MOC] - 25 Years of Adventure Cat. B - Dr. Kilroy's Library
Bricknave posted a topic in LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
Dr. Kilroy retreats to his personal library to record his adventures and plan for new expeditions. Two huge bookshelves brimming with knowledge help him research the flora, fauna, customs, and cultures of any country in the known world. Copies of the maps used in his original adventures hang on the walls of the library, and a large globe helps him plan trips to new destinations. Today, Dr. Kilroy is researching the potential origins of an artifact found on a remote island. Dr. Kilroy's library includes a large desk, a lamp, a comfortable armchair, a large globe, bookshelves with a ladder on a curved rail, and of course, plenty of books. EXTRA PHOTO: Thanks for viewing!
