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Found 102 results

  1. Hello all, I have a few questions regarding the use of 2 L-motors for powering a crawler. I have done some research and have not been able to find many MOCs that use L-motors for drive, does anyone have any advice on using them instead of 2 XL motors for drive. I know the torque output will be less with the L-motors but the overall speed will be quicker. If geared properly couldn't a L-motor be able to closely match an XL motor, but spin faster? Netting me more of a buggy type of crawler instead of a pure crawler? Also if I were to use L-motors I can keep the overall size of my axles smaller. One of the downsides is the power draw from the 2 L-motors will be too much for a Lipo battery setup, correct? I'm building some custom axles in LDD and cannot make up my mind which way I should go with my PF, XL drive or L drive motors. I have designs for both size motors, any advice or experience would be welcome, thank you!
  2. Good day! This thing was made for a 1vs1 competition , the goal is to modify a set into a crawler. I decided to as small as I could, so I took my 42027 and slammed a bunch of PF parts into it. Specs: 1x m-motor for 4x4 drive 1x m-motor for steering 1x IR receiver 1x battery box Video: Photos (click for full size): Althought some things could've been done better , I'm quite happy with it.
  3. BrickbyBrickTechnic

    [MOC] 42043: Crawler Edition!

    Totally inspired by Sariel's Mini Cooper videos, I present 42043: Crawler edition! Features 4x4 drive and steering while retaining the functionality of the cabin. Thanks so much for checking it out! C&C PLEASE! BrickbyBrick
  4. Wished I posted this sooner......... When I was originally had the model normal it couldn't go over an half inch actual brick tile :(. Due to that I spent a long time modifying it to barely go through grass about as tall as the pretend sticker grill. This thing can go over an emaxx tire with its 2 not one xl motors and it had an l motor for steering (only do if your not using 3rd party tires) if using 3rd party tire use an xl motor for steering (I only had 2). I'm now building a a25E tanker to spray weed killer for me so I don't need to sweat to death. Since its super easy to detach the bed I could be able to switch the tanker and soon changed bed be swappable maybe? Picture from very first successful time. Version 1.0 instructions: Video as just a quick demo of some average grass: This is what I'm building while doing Ingmar Spijkhoven 6x6 truck and stay tuned!
  5. shuoshuoliuliu

    6x6 truck VS

    just made a truck similar with Mr. Madoca's new moc work same function on differencial lock and 2 speed gearbox,but 6x6 -Weight: g -2 XL motors for propulsion,1 XL for 1st axle,1XL for 2nd、3rd axle -2 Servo motor for steering,1st & 3rd axle -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential,1st axle - 2nd、3rd axle -Portal axles for 1st、3rd axle in order to make a powerful crawler, I need different rotating speed of front and rear axle. For the reliability, I not use the weak center differential. I design 2 seperate XL motors for 1st axle and 2nd+3rd axle. But I add a lock, to lock the 2 XL motors together when necessary. That means there are 2x 2speed gearbox + 1 lock. And to make sure the enough power, I add 2 battery boxs.
  6. Hi all, I'm new here, but been an AFOL for a few years after my "dark ages". I'm a collector - I like the big cars and constructions machines, so recently I decided to get the Crawler 9398 before it goes out of production and get ridiculous prices... I really liked the suspension, looks and the possibilites with the PF parts that we get in this set. So I got a new one, and unfortunately the servomotor (the one used for steering) seems to broke after just 6 days (I still used the 1st set of batteries on it, it wasn't used in any hard conditions or abused in any way, used only indoors). The servo does not autocenter anymore after releasing the controls. This is my first IR remote set, so I don't have many ways to troubleshoot if it's the servo or the IR receiver fault (tried both channels, new batteries, didn't help). Wrote to lego support, but I don't have any proof to show that I bought this set recently (lost the docket), still didn't get any reply from them (it's 4 days). I took a look inside the servomotor, there was a lot of white grease inside it, removed most of it and it started working again after reassembling, but then finally broke the next day (again no autocenter, this time for both directions). I made a youtube movie that shows how it behaved before I took it apart - has anyone seen something like this, is there any fix? I must say I'm a bit disappointed with this set and lego quality - my previous 'flag ship' 42009 came with 2 missing parts, and now this...
  7. Hello everyone! This time I built a modification of rm8's Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. FJ40 Crawler Weight: 1145g Propulsion: XL motor for 4 wheel drive Steering: Servo motor 2 speed gearbox: M motor Winch: M motor Headlights: PF light Powered by: SBrick and 8878 rechargeable battery box This is my third SBrick model. One SBrick and a rechargeable battery box fit well in the rear space. Unfortunately tumbler tires from 42050 cannot use for front axle. They touch the connectors when steered. So I used normal balloon tires. One XL motor has enough power to climb the slope of over 35 degrees even in high gear (4.2:1). It can climb much steeper slope in low gear (12.6:1) but less-grippy balloon tires would start slipping. You can see that situation in the second half of the video. Building process was not straightforward. First, I decided to adopt bigger wheels, working headlights, motorized two speed gearbox and winch. Also I was planning to keep the whole original bodywork as possible. Like rm8’s chassis, it has front and rear live axles with 3 links. In offroad driving, 81.6mm wheels require gear reduction after differentials. My first attempt was using central torque vectoring diff and rear portal axle like my Off Road Pickup. Front axle was not changed. Although it kept the same wheelbase as original, this version was failed. Every time I started driving, 20t bevel gear and diff disengaged. Second plan was using front and rear portal axle. I tried to make the wheelbase as short as possible. It became five studs longer than the original. So I needed slightly longer body. Building whole chassis was the most difficult. The problem was how to minimize the mechanism of motorized gearbox. I used new driving ring and red clutch gears. I felt that they were stronger elements than old version and they could handle more torque. Although 2 speed gearbox was simple, I had to hide the whole mechanism under the seats. I eventually squeezed a mini linear actuator into the left of gearbox. Changing gears is not fast, but it's easy to adjust lever in neutral position in case of using winch. The winch mechanism is the same as the original. It is powerful enough to help climbing steep hills. I have to say that rm8 had achieved perfect weight distribution. I recognized it when I was attempting to build various versions of chassis which had different motor locations. So in my final version, all PF elements are in nearly the same position as original. The bodywork needed some minor changes due to the new chassis and my parts assortment. In original “face”, it was impossible to put LEDs into behind the headlights and shine trans-clear parts. Moreover, Round tile 2x2 trans-clear seems not to be the official parts. My alternative was built out of available parts. I know the original looks far better and hard to change. But it was worth for me to find another solution. Original FJ40 is modular building. It has various options like doors, roof and snorkel. Since my MOD became bigger and heavier, I didn't add the roof. (Still, four soft shock absorbers are slightly compressed when it stands stationary.) Instead, I built detachable doors in two versions. Building instructions: I hope you like it!
  8. G'day from Australia everyone! This is my first topic created on Eurobricks and my first serious MOC since the end of my "dark age". I'm seriously super glad to be here and keen to share my Technic creations with you all from now onward. With this in mind, if there's any way I can improve how/what I post, by all means let me know so I can keep everyone (including staff) content. I am committed to giving this site the full respect it deserves. :) As a few of you have suggested, it's a good idea when coming out of your dark age to develop designing/building skill by drawing on other people's MOCs for inspiration and guidance for different building techniques... Partially inspired by SevenStuds' recreation of Tim Cameron's rock bouncer "Showtime", I present my own 4x4 Rock Bouncer. Features.. Drive: 2 PF XL motors (1 per axle). Final ratio is 3:1. Steering: 1 PF Servo motor with rack and pinion Suspension/axles: Full-time locked solid live axles with portal hubs (geared 3:1), suspended by 9.5L shock absorber (soft) (2 per axle) and stabilized by a double triangulated four-link setup. Tires: Third party scale RC tires similar to the "Rock Crusher" by RC4WD. Battery: 1 x PF AA battery box Receiver: 1 x PF V2 I initially began designing some kind of rock crawler which was to include PF XL motors, third party tires of some description and (after quite a while researching suspension design) double triangulated four-link suspension. This kind of suspension is ideal as it provides maximum articulation and strength of the axle while eliminating the requirement for a Panhard Bar or Watts Linkage because the triangular positioning of the upper and lower control arms oppose each other, eliminating sway and allowing all desirable movement. By far the most difficult part of designing was the requirement for a steering shaft which moved harmoniously with the suspension cycle of the front axle. Because the upper control arms are shorter than the lower ones, the angle of the axle relative to the chassis changes through it's cycle and this means that when positioning the steering shaft, it must be such that the radius of it's motion doesn't change (due to angle change) as TLG doesn't offer any part which works purposely as a slip joint to negotiate the effect of plunge. After many, many, many... many attempts, a sweet spot was discovered which offered a negligible discrepancy. (This was a happy moment). It's biggest performance drawback would have to be that when the angle of climb and drive torque applied is too great, the rear lower control arms buckle and the rear axle begins to walk under the chassis. Trust me, it's cringe-worthy. With 15L beams instead of 16L links and consequently different suspension geometry, however, this could be resolved. The turning circle also suffers due to the wheel base. Overall, I am reasonably happy with the final product as it is capable of most of the things I intended it to be and in my opinion, the body could look worse. ;) I unfortunately don't have video footage, but I do have photos (see below). Enjoy! All comments welcome. :D
  9. Here is my entry into the contest a tracked dumper with crane. Based off a Morooka/Terramac style crawler carrier platform. Planned Features - Pneumatic Dump Bed - Pneumatic Crane - Detailed Track System - Detailed Cab/Engine Compartment - Pneumatic Pump driven by M-Motor Build Progress Here are some photos of the undercarriage: The dump platform is based off the MB Arocs, but will be further modded to fit this build. Here is a mock up of the crane, based off MB Arocs/effermanns modded design. This will be changed almost completely since it is too large. The crane and dump section need to be redone since they copy an already built design. I just wanted to see how scale and function would work on the tracks. The track design took me a while to figure out since this is my first creation in Technic. I want it to be somewhat modular to help with installing Pneumatics. More to come...
  10. Here comes something powerful, duel motor, 4x4... IMG_0374 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Video and description coming soon... Look at post #10
  11. Hello all! I make it after fail Porsche. My first crawler for future competitions: 4x4, moving by 2 l-motors, 2 differentials, steering by m-motor, eazy access to battery block. And video: More photos on my flickr:
  12. Hi everybody! Today I present to you my first experience of construction Trial Truck! During this year I was looking for your ideal 4x4 chassis. And in the end I came to this building. In the final, which turned this freak on 4 wheels medium size range (80-82 mm). The main idea of ​​this project was the task of the displacement of the center of gravity down and forward is not at the expense of detail, as well as the compulsory use of the portal gears on both axes for high permeability and stability of large CG. The power installation in the form of two twin L motors located in the rear axle, where through the reduction gear torque is distributed to the axle gears back and forth, and then the rotation of spreads on all wheels through a gantry gearboxes. This arrangement limits the transverse rear axle moves up one degree of freedom. Yes, the rear wheels are posted on the obstacles, but discomfort on the track it does not deliver. Servo motor for steering is mounted on the front axle, which also lowers the CG and the sprung mass model. Power - LiPo, management - Sbrick. Number of pieces - 875 pieces Weight - 950 grams More photos you can find on my flickr and blog
  13. [Previous Post: ] Hi, guys: Name's Mun and I am new to this forum. Thought it would be great to introduce my self and post my very 1st technic creation. The suspension bogie is copied from "Nico 71" and everything else is my very 1st attempt :P Any suggestion or comment will be appreciated. Thanks ! [updates:] Haven't started working on my transmission yet since I am experiencing some delay with my orders. However I do have some updates for you : P I will let the video do the talking. Some thoughts: 1. Will switch to a lighter colour (probably light green) at the end of this project since there're still a lot things need to be changed. 2. Will use this as a platform and build all different kinds of mechanisms on the rear "cargo module".
  14. Zerobricks

    [MOC] Coyote 4x4x4

    So after building the jaguar 4x4x4 I got an idea to make a lighter, less part destructive version. The main idea behind it is to combine motor placlement of the fox 8x8x8 with doble wishbone suspension of the jaguar. This kind of setup enables the model to use only 2 gears/wheel and keeps the wheels always parallel relative to the body. Here are first preliminary pictures: Compared to the fox and jaguar, here are the improvements: - The servo motor is placed closer to the steering rack, therebye more-than-less removing steering flexibility - I am using two steering racks per axle for aditional steering system stiffness - Suspension is now almost horizontal and takes little room - Angle of the suspension travel is 30 degrees/wheel - Foxes's proven concept of the motor gearing eliminates the possibility of breaking gears/joints - I plan to use V2 receivers for that extra bit of juice - Shorter wheelbase allows for better steering radious and offroad performance - less likely to hang on an obstacle - Lower, more stable design - more room left for interrior UPDATE: Its been a while... But here are the new pictures and the video I improved model a bit, raising its ground clearance and removing some parts on the underbody, so its harder for it to get lodged As usual I also made an LDD file, which you can download here. And for rebrickable click here.
  15. So, if that thing don't flex enough, I quit Lego building... The axles are made from the efferman instruction, it's got an L motor for each wheel, 4 wheels steer and 2 battery box...
  16. Hi All, I would like to present my latest experiment, an extreme off-roader mini Samurai - yes, another one . The goal of this project was to see, what is the tiniest chassis I can build, with suspension, steering, and 4x4 drivetrain. I succeed to shrink down to 10 studs width, and for that I built the chassis and the body. The position of the IR receiver might be "illegal", I couldn't place it in LDD, but in reality it works without any problem. Well, the result is quite fine, but the front axle is not stable enough, too much slack left in it, and the gears can slip under hevier load. I tried to reinforce with rubber band, which brought some improvement, but not as much, as I was hoped for. Maybe one day I will build a completely new one, although as it is, pulling a 42043 is no problem for this tiny monster. The rest of it pretty stable, so all in all I am happy with it. Features: 1 XL motor, 1 Servo motor, MiniZip cable, 9V battery, weighs round 460 gramms. HERE You can download the LXF file. I hope You enjoy!
  17. Hello. I am relatively new to LEGO and very new to Technic. I am particularly interested in the challenges presented by building rock crawlers. My first build was JJ2's 4x4 Super Cralwer V1, which was very rewarding. SevenStuds then kindly directed me to Yoraish's Little Boy Rock Crawler as an instructive build, which it certainly has been. Having just completed it, I have a number of questions that I have not been able to satisfactorily work out for myself and am hoping to benefit from community wisdom. (I am using a rechargeable battery and a V2 IR receiver, along with the original 2 XL motors for driving and the M motor for steering. I am also using very cheap tyres that approximate Pro-Line Flat Iron 1.9" tyres as a test before forking out for the real ones.) I understand, I think, that you might choose to use a M motor (or a L motor?) for steering if (a) you don't have a Servo motor, or (b) have space constraints and/or (c.) require greater torque. Are there any other circumstances where you would use a M or L motor for steering over a Servo motor? I tried using a Servo motor instead of the M motor and it does not turn the wheels at all, although it attempts to. I assume that this means that it does not have enough torque? In Sariel's book, he mentions that the Servo motor has "huge torque" and so "won't be easily stalled" (p. 169). The M motor, however, easily turns the wheels. ​Does this mean that the M motor has significantly more torque than the Servo motor (Sariel's book doesn't appear to give the torque for the Servo motor, or if it does I missed it) If so, are there any circumstances where you would/could use a Servo motor for steering a crawler and how would you decide this other than trial and error? Yoraish's has the Little Boy doing some pretty extreme crawling (at least it seems so to me) with little difficulty. I find it difficult to tackle a pillow in my lounge without it sounding like something is going to break while steering and have, in fact, managed to pop a wheel off (I experienced the same difficulties with the Super Crawler, which JJ2 kindly helped me to address). I gather that the M motor just keeps turning until you stop (but that unlike the Servo motor does not return to centre when released); this sounds distressing and seems like it could cause actual damage. Is there any way to overcome this? I ask because I and my son - 2 and 1/2 - find it difficult to concentrate on negotiating obstacles due to concerns about damaging something and/or bits popping off. Perhaps it requires greater skill than I/we have at steering? Sorry if I have not asked this particular question well. Many thanks, Darryl and Reuben P.S. I think/hope I have done the images correctly. P.P.S. Any other recommendations for refining this build would also be appreciated (DLuders was very helpful in devloping the initial thread - many thanks).
  18. This MOC is inspired by Tim Cameron's 700HP rig called "ShowTime". A one-off custom built rig made specifically for "Southern style Rock Bouncing" events. These machines are all about insane horsepower, near impossible climbs and pure strength. The chassis design uses over 60m of steel tubing as is often criticized as being ugly and "excessive", but the design is exactly what keeps this rig together after repeated crashes, rolls and torque-driven rock bouncing. The LEGO version is made to closely resemble the original at 1:10. It features a powerful driving and climbing ability from 4 XL motors, geared 1:3. It uses 2 SBricks for control and, just like the original, it includes 4 wheel drive, 4 wheel steering and 4 link suspension. During the outdoor driving, the MOC was very enjoyable to drive. Let's start with the video: Control: 2 SBricks Drive: 4 XL (1 independent motor per wheel) Gearing: 1:3 Steering: 1 Servo (4 wheel steering) Batteries: 2 AAA battery boxes Length: 60 studs Width: 30 studs Height: 28 studs Ground clearance: 6 studs Weight: 1.6kg (with batteries) Tires: Interco IROK 1.55″ from RC4WD The 3'rd party tires gave very good climbing traction over rock and loose dirt. The motors had no problem with torque. It was only the batteries that lost power very quickly with the high drain setup and the cold weather. The suspension could also benefit from harder springs in the front as the center of gravity is placed between the front tires and seats. The tires performed beyond expectation on the climbs, but did put strain on the single servo motor. The tread pattern having grip on the sides also makes them grip the body if there is not enough clearance provided when they reach steering lock position. The biggest challenge in this build were the axles. 4 wheel drive and 4 wheel steering was a requirement, as well as a look that resembled the original. After several attempts to include the motors in the chassis, a compromise was made to have 1 L motor directly driving each wheel. This gave the "compact" look I was looking for but performance was disastrous. After finishing the build, I decided to restart the axles using 1 XL motor per wheel and a portal hub with 1:3 gearing. The results in the end gave good clearance and enough torque to overcome some steep rocky climbs. The most exciting part of the build was the fully tubular body, in red! Since I didn't want to convert the colour scheme to blue, grey or black, I had to find 3'rd party hoses compatible with LEGO. The build ended using 3.5m of hoses, all cut to standard LEGO lengths. All the hose connections as well as the rest of the build was made using 100% LEGO parts. Hope you like it. Feel free to comment or ask questions! Thanks, Mik
  19. Just recently I upgraded my crawler with 2 xl's. I connected them + servo motor to one V2 receiver. Turns out That two wheelbases spin the wheels different directions. i connected a 2nd receiver to the same BB and put the servo on there. I used both ports on the V2 receiver to make the wheels go the same direction. I am not sure if that is a very good fix. Is there any other way to have the motors spin the same direction? How did you do it? Kind regards - Alex, 12y.o
  20. Made something with 4x4, no differentials, everything locked, tatra-like? suspension. Driven by one L-motor. Chassis Then some fast cabin
  21. legosamigos

    Coca Cola Logo

    Hello Eurobrickers! Few days ago I showed a virtual Coca-Cola logo, so now I would like to show you a real Coca-Cola logo BS gallery and short
  22. Hello Eurobrickers! Today I would like to show you my modification of 42042 set. When I saw this set, I thought: “must have”, so I bought it. Unfortunately I don`t like this version, so I built my own creation. I wanted to motorize a cabin by PF, but I have not enough space to put one more a motor and 4th IR receiver. Weight of crawler crane it is almost 2.2 kg Power Functions: 2 x PF L motor 4 x PF M motor 2 x PF battery box 3 x PF IR receiver 3 x PF IR remote control 1 x PF extension wire 20 cm BS gallery (after public)
  23. Hi! Today i would like to show you my rock crawler,but first characteristics: 1 L motor for drive(geared 1:9) 1 M motor for steering 1 AAA battery box 1 Receiver V2 4 link suspension custom shocks Angle of elevation:51 degree Angle of side tilt:55-57 degree photos The real ptototype and of course good suspension travel Video : (video on russian,but all characteristics i show here)Waiting for your comments
  24. TheNextLegoDesinger

    4X4 crawler

    Hy i'm back with another crawler saidly i'm not that good at making good astetics, lukkely functionallity is much better. here some pics DSC_0064 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0065 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0067 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr at first i wanted to make a crawler with positive caster but it was the worst steering i had ever seen so i remade the axles so they are now negative. the front and rear axle are identical. What i wanted to make was a crawler with good power and steering which is achieved. now i have to make a body around it. ideas are welcome. TNLD
  25. Hi guys! I'd start saying this thread is more to ask you some suggestions than to show you the model itself :P I think i already told you that the shop wich is sponsoring me asked me to build something that they can sell as a custom model right? At first, they wanted the fiat panda i made last year but i wasn't satisfied by it due to its untidyness... so i made something that i think it's better and wich performs better than every expectations i had As it's made to be sold (hopefully) i couldn't call it with the real counterpart name....but i think it should be quite clear where i took inspiration from :P it's really simple and it's made trying to use the less amount of pieces possible to keep everything clean and tidy performances are really good, even if the most of the weight is in the back of it, it crawls really good having some nice ground clearance and good speed as well! i don't know how many of you could be interested in buying something like this as many of you are great reverse engineers :P but let's say you have the chance to buy a custom model, how would you prefer it? i mean, do you think i should make it with motors or just ready to be motorized? what else could i change to make it more attractive? should i add more functions or just stay on "less is more" concept? ill wait for your suggestions guys! in the meanwhile have a look at some pictures of it! hope you'll like it :)