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Hello, when I have seen the new LEGO City Town Square (60097) first in Nuremberg at the international toy fair, the Tram of this set was really the highlight. Since then, I thought about, how to motorize this train - and if it is possible. The good answer is: It isn't a big deal - and looks really cool. Now, the tram is a kind of 9V highspeed-train - if you want. This is my video - lets start the journey: What do you think? Best wishes Andres
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Hi to all, From the MTRkustoms factory we have the pleasure to present the ARDUINO AUTOMATED LEGO RAILCAR Here you can see the Railcar in detail This use modification pass the following phases PF --> 9v --> Arduino Control The original idea was very simple, have an autonomous and continuous Railcar in open circuits. I based the function in a great cheap invent, The Arduino Board, this small, easy programming and low cost, gives me the chance to make it real with a cost below 10€, including a PWM motor controller L298N Only 1 9v cable was "damaged" to convert its connection. The cycle work is very simple, Railcar goes from end to end regulated by the L298N with a PWM velocity. When the Railcar hit the final of the track (switch detection) stops 5sec and go to the other end and stops 10sec (and able to the passengers to go down) Time, velocity and stops time can be easy fixed by the programming. Some pictures of the system Stop No.1 Stop No.2 Switch Detail Cable connection boxes To hide the Arduino board and the L298N I made a modern prefabricated transformation Station Detail of the track connection Interior of the Transformation station All Full resolution pictures here A little video Enjoy it
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Shortly after jtlan's CNJ1000, I set out to make a small PF boxcab of my own! I think like many of the earliest diesel electric locomotives in the US, the A6 had its beginnings in the Kaufman Act of the 1920s, which banned steam locomotives from operating in New York City. PRR built three A6 class two-axled switchers (3905-3907), one of which was repowered and reclassified A6B (3907), all of which operated in various New York yards between the late 1920s and late 1950s. Here is a picture of the lone A6B with some B1s up for scrap in 1961: This projext actually started out as one of those B1s, but along the way we found engineering drawings for the A6/B, and I was able to cram the drivetrain I'd designed for the B1 into the smaller body of the A6B. The unit is 24 studs long between couplers and has about 400 parts. The power comes from an AAA battery pack driving the old 9v geared motor. Not surprisingly the most difficult part of this model was figuring out how to position the battery pack, the geared motor, and that darn PF receiver inside the scaled dimensions of the loco. There weren't *that* many potential combinations of fit, but I had to go through a couple. In the end it's actually pretty tight given that the face of the receiver is already at the same height as the top of the curved slopes that make up the sides of the roof. The transmission is as simple as I could possibly make it: just 8-tooth gears meshed into 24-tooth crowns. You could actually speed this up by using 12 and 20 tooth bevels, but I prefer to go slower and have more pulling power - I want to be able to use the most worn out AAAs floating around and still go somewhere. Consequently the loco is *really* slow, but I'll call that a feature. Otherwise, the build is pretty straightforward, but I did try to make the top easily removable. My only real beef with this implementation is that the L drivers are slightly too big and the 1x1 tanks slightly too small. The receiption is also not amazing due to the positioning of the receiver, but it could be worse. There's a flap in the roof to access the power button. I have no idea what the big tank in the back is for. Someone enlighten me. More pics Bonus material #1: I tried my hand at "weathering" the unit by changing some of the brick colors, but I couldn't really get a combination with which I was happy: Bonus material #2: LDD of the B1 that I didn't finish. Pantographs are a pain. EDIT: Instructions now available for sale on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-76470/NonsenseWars/148-pennsylvania-railroad-a6b-v2-powered-up/#details
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Should LEGO Produce a Micro Motor?
9v system posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi all I've always been wondering if Lego will ever make another micro motor even tho the other one was great but had been discontinued Should lego make another micro motor? -
Hello all, I haven't posted something for a while. mainly because I have resorted all my bricks. Anyway here is what I've been busy with lately: First raw sketch for LowLUG by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr And here are the first two modules Second progress shots by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Bonus MOC I never posted here: And for the interested: The topic on the forum of Lowlug which this is going te be part of (Dutch link)
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[GBC] 9v GBC Modules
9v system posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Here is my latest gbc modules, some were taken out because of problems or missing parts. EVERYTHING is 9v no power functions here at all and it will stay that way http://youtu.be/Zp8itxFNbwY -
Hello all, I want to present you all my newest MOC: Switch Engine UW [front/right] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr It is an switcher for railyards. The build is 7 studs wide. Switch Engine UW [front/left] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW [back] by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr Switch Engine UW It is used by the fictional company UW. As you can see my sticker skills are far from perfect. Thanks for reading, Comments, constructive criticism and likes are always appreciated. Erwin by UrbanErwin(EPJL), on Flickr
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Could somebody check my parts list for motorizing 10173 Holiday Train
Remus_Lupin posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
I have pieced together 10173 over the last year and now I'm looking to motorize the train. I've read all the threads here on Eurobricks about motorizing it, but most topics seem to be about converting it to PF. I am more inclined to go down the 9v route because it looks more straight forward with less required mods to make it work. With that in mind, I have compiled a list of the required 9v parts. I was hoping somebody could check the list to make sure that I am not missing anything (see attached screenshot). Thanks in advance. -
Internal pics of technic motors
9v system posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
So ever since I was I kid I always take apart any old toys, printers ect I could get my hands on. Then I would try and find the area where all the gears and motors were and throw out everything else. So what I want to know is any one able to open up some Lego motors to see how they work and post them here? I want to see some internals. 9v system -
[GBC] Minecraft GBC Module
9v system posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi all here is my latest gbc if has about 12 modules including one that is based of the micro worl minecraft set. http://youtu.be/enqDTUCo-Ok So what do u guys think should it be made into a set? 9v system -
A few months ago I packed up my entire Lego collection and handed it over to the hopefully trustworthy hands of a shipping company as I prepared to move from the UK to the US, and after 2 months waiting it finally arrived this side of the pond - guess which boxes were unpacked first!? It's the only time in my life I trusted someone else to move my collection, I was very glad it arrived intact! The wait gave me time to find a place to live with enough space for a layout, and after some work in the basement to repair a cracked pipe, I've begun building again. The layout (in rough numbers) is 15' x 4' (4.6m x 1.25m) or 18 x 5 in the "standard" Lego measurement of 32x32 baseplates. It's based on previous multi-level layouts I've done, running 2 x 12v and 1 9v loop(s) on each level. The top level will run approx 2/3 of the length of the bottom level, allowing me to create a bit more landscape this time. As before it's entirely modular, breaking into 6 sections for relatively easy transport. It's still very much a WIP, though as I now have dedicated space I can leave it set up and run trains as it progresses. There are several months of work ahead yet :-) From one end: DSC00872 by andyglascott, on Flickr And the other... DSC00871 by andyglascott, on Flickr I've even found a use for the few 12v rails that I've managed to break, there's a repair crew doing their best to salvage them! DSC00882 by andyglascott, on Flickr I've also made the switch from Brickshelf to Flickr, my apologies of the images/links above don't work properly, the album is here. I'll add more images over the coming weeks/months.
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Hello all! New here to Eurobricks and the whole AFOL Trains community in general. I have noticed that there there are essentially two different train systems the 9v (runs on metal rails using a DC current from a transformer like a normal model railroad) and then Power Functions. I unfortunately don't have any of either to experiment with but I was just thinking would it be possible to merge the two and create a kind of DCC system? (Digital Command Control - current standard for powering and controlling model railroads) What I mean is this, you have the PF system that uses a battery pack, IR or RF receiver to power either a "train motor" or another motor that uses Technick gears etc, to power the wheels. Could not one remove the actual motor from the 9v train motor housing and use the metal wheels as contacts to pass the current through from the metal track to your PF control system? This way you would not have to break your layout into Power Districts and you would be able to run multiple trains on the same line under completely different control. Each train would be controlled by it's unique PF controller yet pulling the same current from the rails. Essentially moving the battery pack from a pack of batteries in the locomotive or tender and placing it in the rails where you no longer have to worry about charging or bringing extra batteries. I haven't been around long enough to see of you guys are doing this yet or not, but just thought I'd throw it out there. As I stated, I unfortunately don't have either system (or trains) to experiment with but will as soon as I have the coin. I recently downloaded LDD and built an MOC that I designed to run in either system or both. I've always been an FOL and trains but never have been able to bring the two together until I downloaded LDD. Let me know what you think of combining both 9v and PF and I'd love some feedback on my MOC in the link below. I went for detail so it turned out to be about to scale so wider and I'm sure taller than the standard size, though still on the Lego standard gauge track. Cheers! https://www.flickr.com/photos/128636628@N08/
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Hey all! So the other day my package arrived containing the 4563 Load N' Haul from 1991 and the 7722 Cargo Train from 1985!, this is beside the point. Today I was removing the traction tires on my 9v motor to clean them (junk like dust, dirt and hair was caught in them). But before doing so I relized that almost my whole motor was layered with oil! So i cleaned that off and put it back together. The problem is I am wanting to make sure that there is still enough oil to not have the motor be damged by not enough oil. When I run it it doesn't make loud squeaks or anything it sounds normal. Anyone have tips on oiling/knowing when to oil your motor! Thanks guys! -Rail Co
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He folks. I have a question to ask regarding purchasing a 9v train system. I have some old 12v stuff and I have PF stuff but with the advent of ME models new track I am keen to look into 9v. The benefits as I see it are no batteries and the ability to make smaller locomotives or locomotives with small or narrow bodies without the need for a secondary wagon to house the extra PF parts. This is something I liked to be able to do with 12v but the track is getting harder and more expensive to come by. My track is also getting more brittle and more pieces are breaking. Unfortunately I don't have a permanent setup. Currently funds allow for the purchase of about $230NZD ($200USD) which includes shipping to New Zealand. I am banking on about $40NZD Shipping. So sets that include everything I need to get started within my budget look like 4561 and 4559. My question then.....which one would people choose given my situation? I do not think that either of these are LEGO's best efforts but as I say they seem to include everything in my given budget. Parts wise 4561 does look appealing for all of the windows. Any advice will be greatly received even if you think it is a waste of time going to 9v. I will be interested to hear/read your views.
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Hey Guys! Everyone has that one story where they find a set for a great price! This is the place to share it! I love to hear stories like these as it also brings up what sites so others may be able to find deals there too! It can be anywhere from when you were a child to present, 60's, 70's, etc. I will start! I bought an MISB 4533 (9v Era Snow plow) off ebay for about $35 this year, the cheapest I have seen them was $45 dollars. Saved me $10 (Hopefully a good investment) Sealed 4533 by Railco1, on Flickr Also on ebay I got an MISB 4541 Road and Rail, for $40 the cheapest I have seen being sold is $65, savings of $25! Sealed 4541 by Railco1, on Flickr I cannot wait to hear everyone's stories. This is meant to be fun and an enjoyable thread. Enjoy! -RailCo [Moderators! this is meant to be an on going topic so if people post on it a year late, that should be okay]
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Hello Train Tech! My Transformer to Track wire for my 9v system is cracking all over and falling apart causing the positive and negative wires touch so I am not able to use my 9v trains right now... Has anyone had this problem and have a fix (without using electrical tape). I am thinking if there is a way to rewire it with new wires? If anyone has ideas or has had this problem before it be much appreciated if you had a fix! Thanks Guys! -RailCo
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Hey Guys here is my work in progress Of a Shunter. It may look complete but it is not as I need your help to give suggestions on what to add! Link: https://www.flickr.c...06/14749146646/ The back of the train you cannot see is just a red brick wall so I hope you can also tell me how to make a back of a shunter look better! Thanks Guys -RailCo P.S. I know the buffers are grey but I do not have any black cow catcher buffers, and also just realized i forgot hand rails on the cab so that why it's a WIP . EDIT: I would really enjoy your help. I have added windows which makes it look 10 times better. This is my first ever MOC of a shunter so any suggestions are welcome!
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EDIT: Instructions are now available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-102718/NonsenseWars/148-pennsylvania-railroad-t1-duplex-v3-power-functions You can see some new footage and an updated explanation in the following videos. Also cleaned up dead links from the original post.
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Hey Guys I am wondering if anyone knows a good shop (Online) that sells lego trains (Mostly 9v and PF) for a good price other than Bricklink and a Lucky eBay find? Thanks so much -RailCo
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Hello, I am making bigger my station and I am building aside a cargo terminal. So I share with you some pictures of the present state of my Layout and I hope to have comments and suggestions on how to make it better. Let's start with the station: It consists of 4 platforms and a main terminal building. The station is somehow inspired by the System sets although is quite customized. More pics: In this picture you can see also my mini-sized ETR500 (frecciarossa) that is not as beautiful as the one posted by bmacro but it is "in scale" with my layout. Let's go to the cargo terminal. This is inspired by the set 4555,although it is heavily customized as well. The crane is functional. interiors are poor. There are control centers are the ground level as well as the upper floor. And finally a custom element of my layout: the bridge and the tunnel. you can also see a video here: I am waiting for your comments suggestions! :classic:
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Hello all, I am thinking about making a Santa Fe or similar EMD-F7 train. As I may create the full train (ABBA - 10-12 Coaches) I need to know how many train motors I will need to pull this lot. The train should be close to the 10020 with the B unit being James Mathis design. As this is a WIP I have not yet fully designed the train. I will be using Power Functions train motors as 9v is getting expensive. Also rechargeable battery boxes and lights. So how many motors will I need for pulling all of this? Thanks, - darthluke
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What is the best 9v train to start with? So far I have tons of PF and the old R/C trains and want to start somewhere. This is my first topic so might as well tell some things about myself. I'm a huge fan of LEGO (especially trains). And have made a few MOCs.
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Hello all of lego train fans! I just got a quick question on 9v regulator. Can I use 110v 9v regulator with a convertor to 220v 9v regulator? Or should I purchase a new 9v regulator for 220v? Thanks in advance..
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Question on Lego 12v Remote Controlled Road Crossing and 9v system
nam7340 posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hi everyone. I have a question on lego 12v Remote Controlled Road Crossing and 9v system. Can this set work in 9v system if I have 12v controller? Thanks. -
So... what's going on? Big Ben's Page is dated from January, 2013: "Please check back for further updates in the coming months." Is 11 of them enough to wait to nag? And then ME Models just ran out and hasn't made any more available. I understand they run up against QC issues, which is understandable... but frankly, those ME Model rails worked great for me, I don't understand what the problems could be. Were there any other alternatives out there? Anybody with any news about Big Ben and ME?
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