Search the Community

Showing results for tags '4x4'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • Guest Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE YOU REGISTER!
    • New Member Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE STARTING!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)


Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Country


Special Tags 1


Special Tags 2


Special Tags 3


Special Tags 4


Special Tags 5


Special Tags 6


Country flag

Found 213 results

  1. I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  2. Hello Eurobricks AFOLs, I am Engine and this is my first post here on EB forum. My friend HorcikDesigns told me, some of you here want to know more about my last MOC. My pleassure! Original Vehicle: As some of you noticed, my MOC should be scale model of Ghe-o Rescue. It is a Romanian rescue vehicle designed for extreme terrain, with a capacity of up to 11 people. Dimensions are: 5.2 m length; 2.7 m width (even wider version exists); 2.4 m higth (without rooftop carrier). The weight is 3.2 tons. Under the bonnet, more engine types can be monted, with the most powerful one with 500 hp. Live axles are used for suspension, both equipted by lockable differentials. There are also built-in water tanks for 620 liters for fire extinguishing. Another specialty is the possibility to mount tracks to rear wheels or pneumatic "pillows" on wheels for floating on water. Tires are also special. It is Arctictrans 1300x700-24 (diameter 1300 mm and width 700 mm). The manufacturer shows off an independent test in which they won over Avtoros and Trecol manufacturers. Here you can see several cars built on them. And because the tire diameter and width exactly match the 1:16 scale to the LEGO "Tumbler" tires Ø81.6x44, the scale of the model was decided. So far I do not know any other LEGO cration of Ghe-o Rescue. MOC: The MOC was designed for Kostky.org Trophy Competition, organized by our technic race event guru Peter. And the task was to build a drivable, remote-controlled, off-road vehicle that would be able to travel about 3 km. And at the same time, it should be as beautiful as possible and with design matches to original vehicles. Terrible task. The dimensions of the model are: 332 x 168 x 168 mm (41.5 x 21 x 21 studs), weight 1.2 kg. The drive is permanently 4x4 without differentials. Axles are not sprung. But thanks to the torsionally soft frame of the vehicle, decent axle crossing is achieved (some LEGO trial experience here). Inside, there is a functional winch with a length of 2.5 m. Good lighting is a necessity for the expedition special. The control is provided by sBrick. The propulsion is made by 1 x PF XL motor with a total gear ratio of 1: 1. Schizophrenic steering is provided by the PF Servo. The winch is driven by a PF M motor via a worm gear (8: 1 ratio). Five pairs of PF lights really shine in front of the car. Electrical source is a battery box with 6 AA batteries. The whole MOC is pure LEGO exept of: sBrick receiver, high strength thread as winch rope, threaded cardans and event mandatory stickers. Drive ability: Drivig speed corresponds to a pleasant walk. Off-road capabilities were adequate to the track. Tire traction did not limit offroad capabilities, but a small power of e-motor did. Then the winch becomes useful, that is able to lift the entire weight of the vehicle. And if it was still not enough, the other "competitors" were there to help. A minor issue was the steering. Thanks to the loose in steering mechanism and occasional insensivity in the mobile app, sometimes I sent it out of the way. A major issue was energy consumption. Within 1.5 km, I drained out three sets of batteries (2x alkaline GP Ultra Plus, 1x rechargeable GP 2700). And yet I do not know how to solve it. But most likely it is caused by PF Servo motor, as we disscussed after the event with other partipiciants. ----- Thank you for comments and questions. Pictures are here in my gallery. Original post on Kostky.org.
  3. Hey everyone, This MOC is being built for 2 reasons: 1, to celebrate 3 milestones- Canada's 150th anniversary, Technic's 40th anniversary, and me hitting 1000 subscribers on Youtube. In fact, a comment suggested I do this. The second reason is to cure the errors that my 2 previous crawlers had: -weak axles (very weak in fact) -low climbing power -messy building -inefficient steering (used an M motor) -no additional RC functions So here's where I'm at right now: Above is the motor housing. I'm going with 2 L motors for the drive because they have good speed at a sufficient torque. That is the gear housing. Frames are abundant. Now the whole front axle. You can see that it is compact and yet very, very durable. The rear axle. And the two together. This crawler is being built for max performance but awesome looks. So I want to (but may not) do a Tacoma body: Update tomorrow, thanks for reading! BrickbyBrickTechnic
  4. Hi everybody! Thats my new 4x4 rock crawler. So,here it is Specifications: -4 link suspension -portal axles -rc 108 mm tires -3s li-fe battrey -2 buggy motors -1 sbrick I hope you like it Let's see it in action!
  5. Hi All, I know, I have unfinished projects enough (published here too), but time for another long-term build. I was lucky enough to find great deal on pneumatic cylinders, and finally I own Claas tires too, these caused to raise the Skidder-particle ppm in my haemodinamics. This is a very old plan of me, basically since I got back from my dark-age with the 8265 in 2009. So this is the plan: http://www.tigercat.com/product/630e-skidder/. I will not build a specific model, but a generous one (610/620/630/632 mixed style), because I am not that much interested in specific models - simply: I love them all (and beside that I am afraid of @M_longer's justifiable criticism ). Finally I found a working design for the grapple with nice range of movement. It has virtual pivot points, and floating cylinder (this is already differs from real-life counterparts), but I wanted to use 1 cylinder only due to tubing - which should be nicely hidden in the boom panels. Some might be not a fan of the Bionicle parts, but I find them right here, and they tend to close properly due the lucky combination of build slack and their pointy-thin design (I might figure out an offset for them, but wasn't successful yet). I made a pure Technic version too, in case. This is how it looks so far (partly built in bricks too - waiting for parts), with Power Puller tires in the model for the scale: Still a very long trip ahead, and I am not fast on building, but I feel passionate, which is a promising sign I guess. Special thanks to: @Lipko for inspiration and for the pneumatic parts in LDD from his majestic Backhoe, @nikolyakov for the beautifully purpose designed and inspiring TC10 entry, @BrickbyBrickTechnic for his 42054 C-model as final motivation, and for Bricklink to make it feasible to emptying my wallet... Every suggestion, criticism for improvement is welcome.
  6. - 4 wheel drive - 4 wheel steer - 4-cylinder straight fake engine - 4 link axle - 4 long soft shocks for each axle - 4lding seats, rolling wheels - 4 steering there is HOG More photos: Building instructions: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-9667/paave/bigfoot-monster-truck/
  7. Hi all, Hope everyone enjoys my trio of Lego Technic Jeeps, My MOD Jeeps are loosely based on the classic model from the 8865 test car model. I wanted to create a new version within the same wheel base and track, my first attempt was done in 2004 and was massive. Zoom forward to 2017 and you can see my "red" version. Al lot of the product was borrowed for other kits and Lego builders, however they all had masssive modifications in order to make them fit. I was happy with the "red" model, however the live axle bowed and the macpherson suspension had to much movement. So last week I decided to see if I could change this and in doing so, I ended with a lightweight chassis version. believe it or not, these two models share about 15% similarities, everything else is completely redesigned. enjoy the photos! Trio of Jeeps To see more images please view my Flickr albums Lego Tyres Builds
  8. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  9. It's a monster truck with a 4x4 trasmission and 2 speed gearbox powered by a SBrick. This MOC is very powerful because the first gear generates a great gear ratio. The chassis is simply and very strong and the suspensions are attacked to him. I couldn't use the "large hard shock absorbers" because i haven't them, so i used the "small soft shock absorbers". I added a V6 working motor, a rear openig hatch, and lights too! These pictures above are of the old version, in fact the axles and the position of the SBrick in the images are different from the current ones (below). The differential is removable to ensure more traction. The gearbox is very compact and strong (on that I worked a lot of time). The green axle is the input, while the red one is the output: the yellow gears are interested for the first gear and the blue ones for the second gear. The first gear has a gear ratio of 5:1 (very powerful), while the second gear has a gear ratio of 3.3:1 (balanced). The gear ratios were calculated by adding the gear ratio of the all transmission system, ie 3.3. And this is the outdoor video! I hope you enjoy my MOC! Leave a comment and a Like! ;)
  10. A small chassis and a few questions, universal or cv joint?, shock absorbers or leaf springs?, I wanted to avoid the panhard rod if is possible. Drive axles are robust and very difficult to dismantle withot remove axles, in the end it will be a kind of small truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLvIK8Xj-tQ&t=0m0s
  11. Hello everyone! This is another Jeep which I built while leaving some unfinished projects on the shelf. For three months I have had no time for LEGO mainly because of my nursing job. (Did you see Wolverine taking care of Professor X in the movie "Logan"? I do something like that ) I really needed to take a new step forward for my motivation. Instructions of former two MOCs are still work in progress. I am sorry to keep you waiting. Jeep Wrangler Weight: around 1100g (with hardtop) -2 L motors for propulsion -M motor for steering -Front and rear open differential -Linked pendular suspension without shock absorbers -Openable hood, doors and tailgate with lock -LED for headlights -Detachable body The chassis is not realistic at all. It was new to me to build the suspension without using shocks. It even doesn't have sway bars. Suspension travel is long enough for this scale. It worked fine when driving over small obstacles. But on a steep incline (40+ degrees), it became unstable and tended to roll over sideways. That move was understandable because it had no anti-roll mechanism. I tried to put the battery box close to the center as possible for better weight distribution. Passenger seat was sacrificed for it, but the whole model with hard top is still slightly rear-heavy. Jeep Wrangler is known as one of the most modifiable vehicle on earth. So I made a few options such as 2-piece hardtop, tube doors, bumpers and another color scheme. But the best way is building more realistic chassis for this body. Unfortunately I could not make it this time. Maybe in the future... Building instructions for red version with those options above available at Rebrickable. I hope you will like it!
  12. Nimr Ajban SOV was created as a result of the development of the chassis that I built to test the steering system based on parts from the 42055 excavator. The problem is the width of this solution which limits the use of the chassis even at a scale of 1: 8. Therefore, from the beginning I was looking for inspiration among military vehicles. However, these are usually heavily armored and i was afraid that the ready model will be too heavy. When I hit the NIMR Automotive products from Abu Dhabi, I immediately caught a glimpse of AJBAN special operations vehicle. It had the right width, desert camouflage, proper tires and an open body. The cool aggressive design of the bodywork fit well to technic parts, especially since I have a lot of yellow panels. Initially I had plans to equip it with a winch, a machine gun, working steering wheel, and other extras. But soon it turned out that without it the weight is approaching 4 kg and the model becomes sluggish. So I gave calm and I thought of Arnold passing through sunny California in his Hummer. Why would not the Sheikans have been able to bring their falcons to the wilderness with a civilian version of AJBAN. The model does not have any special offroad performance, but on flat surface it is quite speedy. The advantage is that there are no moving parts, so if Lego had strong motors of similar size, it could be a fast vehicle. Drive 4 x PF L Turn 1 x PF L Power 2 x PF Battery Pack Tires. MIL-SPEC ZXL 2.2 "TIRES (130 mm) Full Gallery http://bricksafe.com/pages/samolot/nimr-ajban
  13. hi everebody! Today i would like to show you my new 4x4 pickup truck. Specifications: dependent suspension portal axles 2 buggy motors for drive(geared 13,8 :1) 1 M motor for steering 107 mm wheels so,here it is and the video available here:
  14. Presenting the 8258-B Crawler, Designed and built as an entry for the 'Crawlify your set' contest [AMS1] I'm a huge fan of b-models in general, but the 8258-B has always been one of my favourites due to great looks and an easy to modify. Or so I thought... In the end, I reckon about 85% of the chassis has been custom built. There are two L motors situated just below the cabin. One powers the front axle, one powers the rear. Both axles have differentials because, being independently powered, loss of traction is a lot less likely and it saves my poor pieces from becoming mangled. Because the 8258-B is rather small (read: narrow) I had a lot of trouble designing a front axle that could house a servo motor without limiting the range of suspension travel. Eventually I gave up and ended up modifying this axle to accommodate a differential (well deserved credit to the amazing @Madoca 1977). However with that said, I have made sure the bodywork stays almost 100% true to the original. The only alteration I had to made was to the rear wheelarches to make room for the balloon tyres: Original wheelarch Modified wheelarch: Also, the front winch kept scraping on obstacles I was trying to climb over so I switched this out for a bullbar, however the two are easily interchangeable. Anyways, here's a video of this thing in action. As always, please let me know what you think. Whether it's praise, criticism or telling me off for building ANOTHER red and black model (I have other colours, I swear!!), I'd love to hear it. More images can be found in this bricksafe folder. Enjoy =)
  15. Today I present to you my latest build: a motorized monster truck, still unfinished. Now Finished! Background: It was started last weekend after reading Sariel's book, "Incredible Lego Technic," which featured Crowkiller's monster truck MOC. I looked it up on his website where he had a photo of the chassis and the words "This model could easily be modified to be motorized and driven..." Now you all know what happens next... The Original: Crowkiller's excellent model is a manual 4x4x4 monster truck, with 5 link live axle suspension with diffs, a central differential, all-wheel HoG steering, a fake V8 connected to the drivetrain, and a detachable, and therefore, interchangeable, body. The Motorized Truck: The chassis length was increased by two studs in order to accommodate the two L-motors used for driving. The suspension geometry remains the same, though I will probably have to use the hard shocks... A Servo motor was added to control steering, as well as a standard AA battery box and a V2 receiver. I wanted to keep the central differential, but it would have required the body to be too wide. I also tried to incorporate the V8 engine, but the Servo motor and the steering shaft restrict the placement of gears to connect the fake V8 currently. What Is Planned: 1. A body (or two, or three, or four). 2. Reinforcement of the steering. At the moment, if I crash into anything at speed, (which happens frequently ) the front portion of the axle will bend to the side where the impact occurred. Which is not good. 3. Changing to the hard shocks, as the additional weight is already causing the suspension to depress most of the way... What Is Finished: See below what has been done. Also, LDD file instructions are available here. Photos: Wip MT side Wip MT front Wip MT under The Model Is Now Finished! Free Instructions Are Now Available! Click Here! More photos and information is on Page 2! Monster Truck Thanks for looking, feel free to give your honest opinion (anything from "I love it!" to "Why the &%#@ are you copying other people's work?!" is acceptable ) and any advice you want to. - Leonardo da Bricki
  16. I got this idea a while ago, when I first got Sbricks. Why not make modular, expendable system of axles and chassis pieces in order to create a system for offroad truck construction. Here is what I sketched up in LDD. First we have a basic axle. It uses 2 XL motors for drive, independet suspension and steering with servo Because we need a minimum of 2 axles, I designed a double chassis holder with two battery boxes: If we combine 2 axles with the double battery holder, we get the most basic configuration, a 4x4x4: In order to expand on the system I designed a single battery chassis extension: Finally we can combine the three basic modules into a 6x6x6: Or even a 10x10x10: In theory there is no limit how far you can go, but I think anything over 12x12 might cause too much strain on the chassis. Important details: - Axles are designed for Claas wheels, which are not in LDD, hence the wheels above may look small - Each axle can use any kind of a combiantion of number of springs and hardnesses for best flexibility and weight support - Each axle is meant to also house and S brick, which allows you fine steering angle control in order to support any kind of configuration or steering mode (only front, only rear, all wheel steering, crab mode) - For now this is still a concept, so I will relase the LDD file once I build, test and polish the concept
  17. Hello All, I am working on a new MOC, which for I am experimenting a lot with unusual pieces in Technic. To achieve their proper implementation into the Technic world, I am at crossroad now: wether to build illegal (tiny stress) or find a legal solution. I prefer the illegal version in look and strength point of view - I can deal with slight bend of the connected parts, but of course a legal solution would be nice - I have 2 for now, but they just look to messy, and 1 of them is weak too (only rubber connection). Lime 15L beams on the RIGHT is the illegal, the others on the LEFT are legal, only 2L axles missing from rubber connectors (marked with pink): Hereby I would like to ask the community for brainstorming, parameters to follow: All red parts must be on place - no possibilities to move. Axles in the frame pieces to be rotate freely. All red parts must be fixed horizontally and vertically too, rigid connection needed. Must be buildable in reality too. The solution must look clean, visible part of the MOC. HERE You can find the LDD file - some parts will be dropped at open, as it was made in Developer Mode, please refer to the picture above. I hope You will find interesting this problem solving, I am open for any ideas. Thanks for everybody in advance!
  18. Time for everyone's favorite childhood vehicle, a Fire Truck! This one is modeled off of @HorcikDesigns fabulous Truck. This one takes his design, adds a little Renault, and some special features, and it's done. The manual truck has four wheel drive, with suspension based off my 8081 4x4, a I-4 engine, a link based steering system controlled by both roof lights, and a tilting cab with seating for four. Much more at thirdwigg,com, with a full gallery at flickr.com. Video is here.
  19. Hi everyone. As soon as I got the Buwizz I wanted to build a very powerfull, yet model powered by RC motors. At first i wanted to build a trophy truck which uses Claas's wheels, but I decided to put that project on halt, because I got a better inspiration. As everyone knows Tesla makes fully electric cars packed with all kinds of features and gadgets. I want to do the same, integrating the following features: All wheel drive with 6 RC motors (2 front and 4 in the rear) - I learned from my previous record breaking Buwizz powered RWD driven model that when it comes to braking you need front wheel drive too for motors to act as brakes. Spring supported pneumatic suspension - A combination of pneumatic and normal spring suspension which allows the ride height to be set at an optimum level to keep the drive axles as straight as possible, therebye removing any vibrations or losses Remoe controlled compressor - Using Sbrick order to adjust the suspension system of the model Detailed compact double wishbone suspension - Using the 5L suspension arms, new hubs and wheels I was able to make driven, steered suspesnion with brake calipers Working lights and blinkers - Using Sbrick I plan to make all the lights including blinkers work Motorized doors and trunk - This way I can remotely open the doors and trunk Central entertainment system - In my case I want to stick the speed computer in the center console to measure the speed of the model *Crash avodiance system - if I will be able to get an Sbrick plus and a couple of WeDo proximity sensors I can come up with an automatic steering and braking system for the model Detailed exterior and interrior - As name suggest the model is planned to be made in 1:8 scale with as much deatil as possible. And lastly performance - Since I plan to use a total of 6RC motors driving the Porshe wheels with 1:1 ratio from the outermost motor output, i expect the model even though it will be probably around 3kg heavy to perform very good. Special attention was given to the steering system in order to keep it as stiff as possible. I hope to see a top speed of 15 km/h I already started working on the front axle, I will post the picture tomorrow. Meanwhile here is the prototype made in LDD As you can see on one side of the suspension wishbones I am using a normal spring, while the other side uses a small pneumatic cylinder. Suspension geometry is set in such way the springs and cylinders end up as far away from the hub as possbile, since Porsche's wheels are just so deep. Also notice the 1x4 half width liftarms used to support the springs. I will post photographs of the WIP as I go along. Wish me luck
  20. I decided to open a seperate topic for this beast. Inspired by Letsbuild's idea to crawlify a Lego set, i decided to go full crazy and try to upgrade the biggest, heaviest and most orange set to date, Porsche 911 GT3 RS. First thing I built was the front axle, which uses the H frame as a placeholder for bewel gear, so there it no possible way of them to slip: Those with sharp eyes may notice the gears are not aligned, this was done in LDD development mode, more info soon The drive than goes directly to portal hubs with 1:3 gear ratio, giving the model 1:5 gear ratio on each wheel. Front axle also has a servo motor which steers the wheels and powers the Porsche's original steering wheel via a ball joint Rear axle powers the Porsche's gearbox via a couple of clutch gears in order to allow different motor speeds when steering or skid steering - Yes, this 4 kilogram heavy model can even skid steer thanks to its independent motor control. Here is the end result As with the original set, I kept the rear axle 2 studs wider than the front: For suspension I used 4 hard springs, which are hald compressed thanks to the model's immense weight. Due to the porsche's wide chassis springs are quite far apart, so the flex angle is not really big, but on the other hand that makes the model much more stable. Performance wise the crawler works very good, despite its massive weight, so far I had no broke U joints or gears and it has enough torque to skid its wheels on hard surface. Expect more pictures soon and a video soon.
  21. I said before in my previous post that I had some problems with my GX EV3 4x4 chassis that I needed to fix. Once again, it's more gear grinding/clicking, but this time it's only in the front and rear differential gears. The grinding occurs whenever the chassis tries to drive into a wall or when it tries to drive in different conditions (because as an SUV it should drive smoothly in dirt or uneven terrain). What also annoys me is that when I push the car, instead of letting the motors move, the differentials make clicking noises that, like I said before, sound like a machine gun. I really need help so I can stop the differentials from clicking so when the car tries to drive into the walls, the motors won't still move while the differentials click, and so the car can be a lot more versatile on uneven terrain (such as what I used for testing, blankets) without the differentials causing a problem when the car moves. Here's some pictures of the bottom of the chassis.
  22. Hello guys, Good Friday is here, everything is together to build but I'm somehow out of the ispiration. So I've decided to make a video about one of my old MOC's, however all those pics and vids I made back then are somewhat low quality. Excuse me for that please. It is an almost FJ40 looking dwarf jeep. Started out as an experimental chassis. Madoca's CUV had an interesting drivetrain and that inspired me to build the same concept as dense as it is possible. Accordingly it uses two PF L motors to drive each side separatelly trough an 8/24 gear ratio. A PF Servo motor is responsible for the steering and all govern by an Sbrick. As power source I could've use a AAA battery box, but since I'm addicted to my Lipo solution, I've used those. You may complain for the inaccuracy of using independent suspension in a jeep, so let me speak in my deffense: Once the chassis was done I was scratching my head what body should I put on it. As I said this is an old project, it has been done sometime when the FJ40 fewer gone across in the community. I'm being not quite good in building bodywork, decided to make something similar mostly following the shapes of rm8's FJ40. Probably it is a bit out of proportions, but since it was looking cute I've let it be as it was. Much later when I've discovered the Axle Collection Thread, I've find something similar to this suspension and drivetrain so I don't think it is any revolutionary here for you. Anyway, I hope you like this video peppered with some happy classical music. Happy Easter
  23. Hello people of EB, Let me share my drift machine with you. It is the result of a long experiment in which I've been trying to figure out the recipe for the ultimate drifting experience. But let's start at the beginning: My first attempt was a RWD car as we all picture a drift car should be. And however it was capable to make doughnuts I was missing the proper handling, where coming out from an arc can be predicted, or even intended. Sadly I did not make a video about the first version, but drove me to the conclusion that the handling can be improved by extending the wheelbase. So the next version I've built longer and it verified my assumption, the handling has improved, yet came nowhere close to the level I've aimed. Lucky for us I made a video at this stage: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/33446568771/in/album-72157678342432663/ This car had a fairly simple build, using only 1 Rc buggy motor coonected directly to the rear differential, and a servo for steering. As power souce I've been using RC LiPo's (500mAh 25C). I know that divides the community not being approved by the church, but since I discovered it's pro's I'm addicted to them. Small size, low weight, yet capable to feed the buggy motor(s) trough Sbrick. This version of the car was around 720 gramms and I think this is a very friendly number on the scale in therms of a fast and agile vehicle. The Rc wheels I'm using on it have rubber tyres, but thanks to the low weight it could spin them without any additional preparation. Using them though is my personal obsession due to their geometry and aesthetics, has nothing to do with drifting abilities. Still I was missing the elongated arcs and the predictible behaviour. The only bottleneck I had was the controll. Touchscreen controlers drive my mad, not giving any physical sense about what am I doing. Imurvai's application for game controllers was like an oasis in the touchscreen desert for me. (God bless him). But even the physical controller couldn't give me that smooth controll on throttle what I wanted to keep the wheelspin on the border of loosing or keeping the traction. (does this make sense to you?) God I was missing the throttlecurve from my heli controller. :-) So a different approach needed and the idea came that 4 wheel drive should give me the last piece of the puzzle. In my theory the driven front wheels are pulling the vehicle in the choosen direction, while I have to admit this changes the overall behaviour too. So I've built the 4x4 version of that estate car: And after a few modification and addition I've achived the controlled skiding I was looking for. All wheels being driven the traction had to be lowered as 1 buggy motor/axle wasn't enough to make the tyres spin. Instead of using plastic wheels I 've picked my favorite tool: insulation tape. And here is why: Plastic wheels have so low friction on wood like driving on ice. I was gonna loose all the handling I was working for. The tape in the other hand gives considerably more friction/traction even if all the tyre is covered. But it isn't. By carefully choosing the right width of the tape let us fine tune the traction giving the ability to change between oversteer and understeer on demand, or deciding how "happy" the tail of the car we want it to be. On more benefit of the tape on the front wheels: If ther is a caster on the front, when it turns to any direction the wheels are tilting too, touching the floor only with their edge. As the edge is not covered by tape, so the rubber comes to contact, giving more traction when changing direction. And when the steering goes straight the traction lowered to the amount we set up by the tape so the wheels can skid and spin. And there is a subjective reason as well: plastic wheels are noise too. To improve agility I needed a handbrake too. The video gives a straight-forward explanation about it, I think it is qiute self explanatory stuff. The setup has enough power to stall the buggy motor. While I admit it's not "healty for the all parts, we have to accept: Every magic comes with a price. 4 motors and 4 LED's required 2 Sbrick to controll them. I think that is it so far. If I forgot to cover something, please feel free to ask about it, but let me point out I can't do much about being non purist. This is about engineering for me, not about religion. So anything regarding this subject will be answered by 1 minute of silence There are more pics in the Flickr gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/141631433@N07/albums/72157678342432663 Hope it was usefull for future drift projects Your comments are wellcome Attika Ps: Part of this subject I've posted the other day in an old topic started by rm8 in 2012. It what was digged up by a new member and finding that topic on first page made me share my fresh experiences without checking the date on the question. Hereby I apologise doing silly things like that.
  24. Hello! My latest MOC is a re-creation of unusual Jeep model. Jeep Mighty FC Concept -Weight: 2125g -2 XL motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for 2 speed gearbox -M motor for locking rear differential -M motor for winch -3 LEDs for front and rear lights -2 SBricks powered by one rechargeable battery box -Portal axles -Openable doors and tailgate -Shallow bed with fold-down sides -Detachable roof -Alternative tube doors The chassis is not realistic, but has decent offroad capability as heavy Lego model. My goal was to make a sturdy and powerful crawler having propulsion motors and gearbox on the center of its chassis. Which means the drivetrain contains two universal joints - weakest points - for transmitting the torque to front and rear live axles. To save U-joints from damaging, I adopted two stage reductions after differential on both axles. The gearbox is similar one to my previous FJ40 Crawler. I doubled the pair of 8T/24T gear for higher durability. High gear is three times faster than low gear. You may wonder why rear ball joint is connected lower than front. That is for avoiding body roll caused by high torque of hard-coupled XL motors. Seeing from the gearbox, the rear output rotates in opposite direction to the front one. So the front and rear axle are equally forced to rotate in opposite direction to each other. Thus the center chassis with heavy body does not easily roll left or right even when climbing steep incline. (...at least on paper. I admit the complete body is a little bit too heavy to prove the theory above.) Steering angle is good, but turning radius is not so good. Because of the lack of center differential, it cannot handle different rotating speed of front and rear axle in tight turning. On slippy surface, like in the video, it can be steered without any problem. Rear differential can be locked instantaneously. The role of 8T gear on top of red changeover part is to make a tiny gap between 16T clutch gear and driving ring in locked position. Thanks to the gap, 16T gear is not pushed against outer structure. That helps to decreasing the friction. Front winch is powered by M motor geared 9:1. I used two pairs of 8T/24T gear instead of worm gear. It is smoother and surprisingly powerful. The hook can be manually pulled out by switching the lever under right seat. The body looks a bit squarish comparing to the real Mighty FC. Maybe I could replicate trapezoidal shape of its cabin. But I thought angled pillars and roll cage would be wobbly. So I decided to build simple yet sturdy. Instead of realistic appearance, I managed to realize easily detachable roof and doors. Although the whole MOC is built for using Unimog tires, Claas tires also fit well. But the maximum articulation of axles would be smaller because bigger tires possibly touch the chassis and fenders. It would be necessary to limit suspension travel or slightly modify the chassis. I hope you will like it! I will make building instruction. But I have to finish the instruction of Pickup first.
  25. Prologue: I must admit, I’ve never thought to be able to reveal a proper entry that soon, but all the sparks came so suddenly and all of those fitted into the concept in my head, that the first digital model was ready in 1 night. Some fine tuning was done during another night, and now it sits beside me in it’s Brick Built Beauty. Excuse me for presenting via digital pictures for now, but this way I can give You nicer overview (according to my actual skills), live pictures and video will be done, of course. As it is basically ready, I decided to share it as inspiration to the community, I hope to see many awesome and fun creatures! Let me introduce my entry for the TC11 contest: Name: Bison - my robot is chubby, robust, has lot of power to push and for butting heads, and has biungulate heels to kick all around – just like a bison. My main objectives were to use 2 motors only (for intuitive control, which is essential in the battle arena), and to build a double sided robot, which is functional upside-down as well. Also, I wanted to follow the regular MOCing rules: ease of build, BB access must be simple, legal techniques (LDD compatibility). Parameters: Skid steering 4x4 drive via friction gears Motorized kick-heels via friction gears (signature move) Massive dozer blade (? signature move ?) Very robust structure (to survive rough beating) Modular build 439 parts (without batteries) 37x26x9 studs 1070 gramms (with Ansmann rechargable batteries) 0 gears The 2995 tyre works here very well, as it is more grippy than the average LEGO tires, and so is the 55978 too, as result I got a nice combo for my friction gear set-up. This can provide quite a lot power, but also works as clutch in extreme situations (motor protection). The only deviance what I had to apply (with staff approval): to fit the 2995 tyre to the inside of the 2996 rim lip (Click for picture - on the right), so I could fit them perfectly on the wheel hubs, without building those in offset with the housing. As here can be seen, it is pretty crowded in the inside, which I am very pleased with. After some minutes of test, I am satisfied with the result, it can easily push 3 kgs (milk cans), quite fast, and really works like I imagined. Let’s get to pictures, update will come! EDIT: video is ready, see post below.