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  1. (Built and designed for my father, not for me) The Disneyland engines with consists in order from Left to Right: 4-4-0 "C.K. Holliday" (engine 1) from 1955 pulling the my semi-fictionalized version of the Retlaw 2 freight train 4-4-0 "E.P. Ripley" (engine 2) also from '55 is pulling the post-1971 fictionalized Retlaw 1 passenger train 2-4-4 "Fred Gurley" (engine 3) started service in 1958 and is pulling the Holliday Blue excursion train 2-4-0 "Ernest S. Marsh" (engine 4) began service in 1959. Most of the 4-4-0 models use 9v motors, as my father has that system as his preferred train propulsion type... and GatewayLUG uses the 9v style-track / motors too, so it makes it runnable at shows. The Fred Gurley is not able to be powered this way, sadly. C.K. Holliday 4-4-0 and Retlaw 2 freight train There were two trains at Disneyland opening day in 1955, and these were the Retlaw series. Retlaw 1 was the passenger train which was pulled by E.P. Ripley and consisted of one baggage, four passenger cars, and the observation car. Five of which are no longer used or were sold. (but the observation car is still used - as the Lilly Belle parlor car as seen in the official set) Retlaw 2 was the freight train, pulled by the engine as shown above - C.K. Holliday - and consisted of three cattle cars and three gondolas, plus the caboose. As you may have noticed, I chose to only use two cattle cars from that train, and no low-side gondolas... There are no pictures of those as far as I can tell before the freight cars were all converted into another train type, the same as are in LEGO set 71044. The tanker car and coal hopper are my own invention. The two cattle cars. The two doors on each side of the identical cattle cars fold down. The roof sections come of now as well. As you can see, no seats are inside these cars as there were none installed in Retlaw 2 on opening day 1955! The two gondolas have been shortened from the original versions on the original Retlaw 2, but they are pretty close to it in looks! The caboose. I made up this car, as I couldn't get the real four-world axle caboose to look good in LEGO. The caboose has a removable roof too. E.P. Ripley 4-4-0 and Retlaw 1 passenger train (fictional post-'71 rebuild) Retlaw 1 was the passenger train which consisted of one baggage, four passenger cars, and the observation car, which were pulled by E.P. Ripley on opening day in 1955. Five of which are no longer used or were sold. (but the observation car is still used - as the Lilly Belle parlor car as seen in the official set) However, in this fictional revised version of the train, this retirement didn't happen, though they were modified to suit side-seating. The real Retlaw 1 was originally a yellow painted train, featuring front facing seats until it was mostly retired in 1971. The observation car of Retlaw 1 then became a parlor car known as the Lilly Belle after Walt Disney's wife Lillian. This fictionalized train is in the revised, post-1971 color scheme of the Lilly Belle, (which is in set 71044) and also has two passenger cars plus a baggage car with opening side doors. These cars all have side facing seats, as if Retlaw 1 were around and used in modified format after the 1971 overhaul of the Lilly Belle. As a side note, each of the cars feature a removable wall for getting at the inside details, as in set 71044. My revised version of @TJJohn12's MOC of the Disneyland number 2 steam loco. I made it using parts ordered by my father, but it's still missing the 9v motor in this picture. As you can see, the loco is mainly dark blue, as it swapped colors with the originally dark green real-world engine. This is because the C. K. Holliday model in the Disney train Lego set is also color swapped, from what should be dark blue to dark green. So, basically, Lego used bits from both engines for the set, and we continued this trend here. The baggage car features two sliding doors in red, though other colors are an option to stand out more. (I prefer black doors, but that's not prototypical!) The side wall comes off, as it does on all the cars, to reveal seating. In this car, that means luggage room and two seats. The two coaches are identical in every way, and are also quite similar to the parlor car at first glance. The inside features side seating, as in the Disneyland park... this also allows for easier moving of figures, and placing them in any of the five seats per car. This car is in the LEGO set 71044, but I thought you guys would like to see it alongside everything else. Fred Gurley 2-4-4 and Holliday Blue excursion train The Holiday Blue train was added in early1966 to replace the original Retlaw 1 passenger train which was going to be being pulled from service due to slow loading / unloading at stations. (It is also notable as the last consist added to the Disneyland Railroad.) Here it is being pulled by the Fred Gurley, also known as Disneyland number 3. Here is my Dad's (now finished IRL!) third Disneyland loco, to accompany the C.K. Holliday one in set 71044 and the E.P. Ripley MOC I just finished for him: it mimics the real world Fred Gurley pretty well too. The real 2-4-4 loco has been at Disneyland since early March of 1958. This paint scheme isn't 100% accurate (black boiler / black domes are dark green / red here), but IT IS in line with the modification my Dad and I have already done to the other locomotives. The roof lifts up as normal for this series. This loco is one of my Dad's few unpowered engines, as it is impossible to fit a 9v motor underneath... or any motor block, really! The "Holiday Blue" car by themselves, with only tail-lights added to them. The Disney train my father bought has added three Bricklinked cars with some new cartoon passengers courtesy of "The Minifig Shop" LEGO resale store in Kirkwood, Missouri. Still need get the 4th car and the Lilly Belle car built from the actual set, and add the Star Wars characters to it and the empty one on the right. I should probably put Donald Duck as a he fireman as seen in the cartoon short 'Out of Scale" from the late 1950s. Ernest S. Marsh 2-4-0 Just to complete the first four locomotives from Disneyland, here is Ernest S. Marsh. It's a 2-4-0 based off the 1871 Denver & Rio Grande loco number 1, "Montezuma" and was readied for service at the California park for the first time in late April 1959. This LEGO version is also inspired by LEGO set 71044 for the two-axle tender, piston design, and general look of the engine, while the boiler design originally hails from set 7597. The tender is powered by a 9v motor, and weighed down for traction by a standard weight brick. Notes on the post and future additions: Real life pictures will be added whenever possible. Also, Disneyland RR Number 5 - Ward Kimball - is a relative newcomer to he park and is a 2-4-4 like the Fred Gurley. It would not be interesting to have two more identical locos on the roster, so it is not included, and as it arrived in 2005, it's not quite from for the time period my dad and I are attempting to model. (He is kind of not sure if he wants another loco after Fred Gurley, so the 2-4-0 steamer Ernest S. Marsh might not get built either!) Any questions, suggestions, or complaints? Let me know below! EDITED 8/26/21: added Fred Gurley (Disneyland number 3) steam loco's real world MOC pictures to this post!
  2. Thanks! I don't have any carriages yet so pulling power is yet to be determined... might have to add a second motor somewhere one day. I was struggling to find any other motor options tbh, as I wanted to try out the coupling and it wouldn't have worked if it was powered through the tender! Here's a bit of cab interior detail: Also there's a video of it running here:
  3. Currently new offered for £21.99 + £2.89 postage for UK buyers, see here Even less if you buy more than one. RRP is £69.99. I have no connection with this seller. There are other sellers with similar prices. I bought one just to make sure and it is the genuine article, sealed bag, put batteries in, connected it to powered up app, it upgraded itself and then ready to go. I tested it with lights and train motor no problems. I think they are a bit big for a loco unless you build 8 or 10 wide, but for a ground mounted hub for light signals and point motors this is great value as it has 4 ports (and built in sensors).
  4. zephyr1934

    [MOC] Daylight to Brickworld

    For today I have a shot "in the field" that circles around to the opposite corner, and look, unlike the LDraw images where I omitted the engineer's side it shows that in real bricks I actually did build that side of the engine. This picture also provides a better view of the tender and now you can actually tell the tool box is hanging off the rear of the tender. Meanwhile, thank you all for the kind words. Yes, that is the huge downside to PF, how much internal space it takes up. But it is so much nicer when the locomotive is the actual source of power. If I can't get it all into the engine though, I would probably prefer a powered tender than to put the battery in the tender and span the gap with a power line to the motors in the locomotive. Anyway, in this case the PF is a tight fit with the wiring and all. I had to use a 1x2x3 panel to span over the PF plug on the battery and as noted above, there are all of these crazy half plate offsets to work around. So it is pretty much I had just barely enough space to make it all work. If I were trying to conserve spacer I could maybe shorten the locomotive 2-4 studs behind the IR receiver. I suppose that is one of the nice things about the XL wheels (BBB XL with o-rings to be exact, I like the "ready to run out of the box" of them) is that it allows you to build bigger while keeping the proportions reasonable. (yeah, I know, not a revolutionary insight but it is true)
  5. Ropefish

    [MOC] Daylight to Brickworld

    really nice, as said in the flickr post love it when the locomotive itself is powered! Its always tricky but it sure is satasfying.
  6. zephyr1934

    [MOC] Daylight to Brickworld

    You know, I forgot to include a link to the full album, now added to the first post and repeated here: [album on flickr] Anyway, today I pull back the shrouding and show you what's under the hood. When I started building the P10 I assumed I would need to go with tender power, so I got the engine far enough that I knew I had the most challenging bit solved. I built a prototype in real bricks of the pilot truck (as per above), cylinders, a bit of skirting, and the drivers to make sure she would clear all of the curves. After I got that working I set the loco aside and spent WAY too long building up the PF tender (top left in the image below). The hard part was getting the top, sides and bottom to both line up and be securely attached. The one thing that is hard to see in this image is the crazy amount of half plate offsets I had to work in both vertically and horizontally on all three of the models. Anyway, after getting the PF tender far enough along I returned to building up the locomotive and I realized I might be able to fit the PF in there after all. The final result shown below. Note the discrete placement of the IR sensor right behind the stack. As a result, I scrapped the PF tender idea (and all of the time put into it) and went to a non-powered tender. Much better, and surprisingly, the three axle trucks on the tender do not cause any problems.
  7. Aanchir

    LEGO Trains 2022

    Yeah, the main functions of the Boost hub (or "Move Hub") that a standard Powered Up hub lacks are its tilt sensor and position motors, which give a little more control than linear motors, and can also be used as rotation sensors. So its main advantages would be for automating stuff that requires specific angular movement is needed. Besides the examples you mentioned, turntables for railway roundhouses are another area where motors like that could be useful for a train layout. I know that in the past I've seen people use LEGO Mindstorms for that sort of thing. But even then, you can do that same sort of stuff with pretty much any other Powered Up hub and motor besides the train motor and medium linear motor, which are currently the only two motors available from LEGO shop that lack absolute positioning.
  8. I have a question about running additional powered up items such as lights, sensors and motors from a hub. The small hub has two ports which is quite limited. Would it be possible to splice two motors together by joining of “piggybacking” the wires together? Could the same be done with lights and sensors, or lights and motors?
  9. Hello Train Tech! I haven’t been here for a while, but I have been building trains! I recently came across an old thread on the Boston and Albany 4-6-6T suburban tank engine, and I saw a comment about its smaller sibling. Well, I am here to share not one, but two suburban tank engines, including the aforementioned 2-6-6T, which I still consider one of my best models to date. To make things as confusing as possible, the NYC called both of these engines D-2a, though not at the same time. The 1912 D-2a (2-4-4T) went out of service shortly before the 1928 D-2a (2-6-6T) changed names. Both engines can navigate all R40 geometry and are much more buildable and usable than my first suburban tank attempt, though the 2-4-4T has to use Powered Up due to size limitations. The two videos at the end go into more detail about each engine and build.
  10. allanp

    LEGO Trains 2022

    When I said "lazy" I mean the company, not the designers. I have just now seen the passenger train and it looks pretty good. I like the long carriages and the doors (though would be even better to see them at the ends of the carriages, they look a bit strange in the middle) and the lights. This passenger train looks like the designer did the best they could within the boundaries they have to work in (mostly involving the powered up system. Trains could benefit more from their own non battery, metal rail system, or even something like the DCC system for example) The station looks okay but a bit overpriced. I still really dislike the cargo train, and powered up, but the designer did a great job on the passenger train so a big thumbs up for the design of that
  11. MattR81


    Hi everyone, I'm Matt, from Worcestershire, UK. I've been a reader of the trains section of the forum for about a year, but finally decided to sign up. I always loved Lego as a kid, and particularly loved it when I got Lego trains for Christmas. I started with the classic 12V passenger train 7745, and then the 12V Cargo train 7735, also adding level crossing, extra points and track, signals, and car transporter depot. All of this was around the time of Lego changing to 9V system, so I combined the above with the Metro station 4554, Metroliner Clubcar, and two of the 9V crocodile locomotives which I converted to 12V operation by purchasing some additional motors from Lego spares. Also some additional wagons from the early 9V era such as the container double stack. I now wish I'd bought more of the club car and container double stack to make longer trains of each. Until recently I haven't used my Lego for years, but now with a young daughter who is getting interested in Lego I have been inspired to not only get the old Lego back out again, but also to purchase new trains for the first time for around 25 years. I have bought 4 of 60197 to make into 2 train sets, with a few mods such as converting two of the buffet cars into seating cars to have just one buffet per train. Now looking at how to effectively combine the newer trains with the older 12V stuff that I have. Of course the new can run on the 12V track as it's battery powered, but the old can't run on the new track, so it will need a bit of thinking about, but I am already inspired by some of what I have seen here to have a go at creating some of my own designs of trains and freight wagons
  12. Thanks for your answer. When you say old lights, do you mean using PF lights spliced to the correct wire on a Powered Up Cable?
  13. Mr Hobbles

    LEGO Trains 2022

    Speculation on my part, but is it possible the passenger train contains the rumored new Powered Up train headlights? Look at the front - the headlights are a 1x2 slope, with the light coming in from the side. Unless I’m mistaken, the only feasible way for this to work is if it was coming from a new 1x2 light-emitting brick placed alongside it. The existing Powered Up lights wouldn’t allow this angle. The box says lights included. Am I reading too much into it?
  14. Hey Guys. I have been working on this project on and off since September of 2021. It is not my first MOC, but the first I care to show off here as I feel it is of a sufficient standard. Small Powered Up Shunter - Pybricks Control The brief was originally a clone of @BrickPirate's Small PF Shunter, and I was indeed using Power Functions parts in the beginning. As there were no instructions or files available, I reverse engineered what I could and went on from there. Then I decided I didn't want the smallest shunter ever, just the smallest on my layout. I also liked a more rounded styling and incorporated that into the design. The colour choice was pretty much determined by what I had to hand after designing a previous MOC (An Emerald Night clone in dark azure with a custom tender and 2L PF motors in the boiler). The white was to somewhat hide the Powered Up Hub in plain sight. The side covers are shamelessly ripped straight from the aforementioned MOC. I put a couple of round times with holes on the front long hood to allow the hub's light and power switches to be accessible. Previously I was removing tiles to access the power switch. Now I can use an axle or whatever I have to hand to power on and off. But there was a little unused space in the rear electrical box hood, so I made a little starting pin which can hide inside if I'm ever anywhere without a technic axle to hand! It just pops in the hole, then a couple of presses later the hub is powered on and the Pybricks program is started. The pin then gets stowed in the rear again until it is time to switch off. I originally had this on PF with a train motor in place, which I decided was just too fast and uncontrollable for slow shunting work. So I decided to put in a Powered Up linear motor. The medium was the only one which was able to fit. The square profile helps with fitment as it is only connected to the chassis physically by the axle to the drive gears. Otherwise it just sort of rests in there. The sided and rear short hood hold it in place against the back of the PU Hub. The wiring is a mess as it has nowhere to go but up in this configuration, but there's no room for a Minifig, so not too much of a sacrifice. The drive software is actually from another Train Tech thread. Control your trains without smart device - with Pybricks courtesy of @Lok24 With the custom profile they designed I can now move around the layout at reasonable speed pulling a consist, and then with a press of the centre button on the PU controller, I can switch into super low speed shunting mode. The benefits of the linear motor here are that the Hub will control voltage to keep the loco moving at the desired speed according to load. Plus the gear drive sounds a little bit like cooling fans spinning so I can pretend a little bit! Overall I'm quite happy with it for now, but I will probably end up changing out a few more things as time goes on. If I can get the motor mounted horizontally I may be able to get the drive line top a 4WD version, but I'm not holding out any hope. Poor little guy could really use 4WD! It can get stuck on points and does slip quite a bit if I load it up with too many pieces of rolling stock. I have custom traction bands on in place of the standard Lego ones for more grip but it does struggle for it sometimes. Thanks, hope you enjoy the pictures. I'll see if I can get a little running video together later on.
  15. Selander

    LEGO Trains 2022

    About the five channels, I think Lok24 is refering to the five different colours the PuP remote and hub can show to indicate which hub you are controling. (if controling multiple hubs with one remote) I copied a text I believe is relevant from the time PuP was introduced; An interesting feature of the LEGO Powered Up system is that if you build two or more hubs into the same train, and give them all the same channel color, you can drive up to five train motors in sync by connecting them to the same output on each hub. This is especially useful for long trains. In addition, you can use two motors at the same time from the same controller with one motor having its polarity reversed. This is done by turning the button interface to the direction of control needed. This feature is very handy for operating vehicles where you want vertical control for forward/backward drive and horizontal for steering. end of copy... ! Note: I believe the a/m text is only applicable for 2ch PuP hub, since that is the only hub you can pair automatically with PuP remote. When using the bigger 4ch (Technic) PuP hub, the PuP remote won't work automatically. New software from PYbricks, or a custom program in PuP app would be required in this case.
  16. allanp

    LEGO Trains 2022

    @LEGOTrainBuilderSG agreed. This looks like a bare minimum offering, just uninspired and lifeless. The mains powered 9v trains (and system) were way better. What's worse is that, if this lazy attempt at a set doesn't sell, Lego will say "trains must be unpopular, let's not do trains any more". No Lego! Put some effort into making it something desirable! I mean, look at the metroliner, with the way it's artwork and even the box it came in presents the model with its metal electrified rails, mains powered big yellow dial and all the people and everything. It's mostly grey (realistic at the time) and yet still feels full of life and colour. Compare that to this drab and lifeless offering in a cereal box, to quote some guy called Brandon "c'mon man!" They put so much time and effort into trying (and to me failing) to appear to be this, that and the other as a company that they forgot to put any effort into making a product I actually want to buy!
  17. Lyichir

    Lego clearly doesnt want my money!

    IIRC a big part of the reason 9V tracks with exposed metal rails went away had to do with evolving toy safety standards and requirements. Current regulations in the U.S. at least bar the use of live electrical components that are not sealed in protective plastic, which would include 9V powered rails. I guess Lego could possibly return to offering metal-sheathed rails WITHOUT having them be powered (maintaining battery powered trains on metal tracks), but doing so would be a pretty big expense for a mere cosmetic upgrade—not a recipe for success for an already expensive range of products.
  18. Hi all - I wanted to share my latest project of creating a LEGO Caledonian 812 with tender, and see if anyone else had experiences to share (good or bad) of motorising a 0-6-0? LEGO Caledonian 812 ‘Jumbo’ steam train by BananaBrick01, on Flickr In my model the main chassis of the train is built directly onto the Powered Up train motor (88011), with power going to the middle and rear pairs of wheels, as well as being transferred to the front pairs of wheels via the pistons. To ensure the train can corner, the middle pair of wheels are blind drivers without flanges. The tender uses three pairs of small wheels in 38339 holders, but the rear wheel can turn (using a similar connection to the front wheels of Emerald Night), again to enable cornering. The drive wheels have O-rings. The Powered Up box is its usual place in the tender, beneath a panel with 'coal' studs and wedges on top: LEGO Caledonian ‘Jumbo’ (showing powered-up box) by BananaBrick01, on Flickr I found that once the O-rings are attached to the drivers, the train will both start and run well on both straights and corners, though with a heavier load (2+ carriages / trucks), it would need a nudge to start if placed on a corner. The train has lights fitted; one of the lights is in the usual place on the front of the train, and the second lights up the fire in the firebox (as shown on the Lego Ideas page). Hope this is of interest. Really interested to know if anyone else has experimented with 0-6-0s, and what they found to be optimal to get everything working well! Happy building all.
  19. Toastie

    LEGO Trains 2022

    Oh so true. Yes, have heard of it - but I'm taking another route: Metal rails (= TLGs 9V stuff) permanently powered with 15 V DC, power pickups (= 9V train motors either without motor or split power line) feeding >via bridge rectifiers< either the PF LiPo (directly), the PF bat boxes and RC train bat box (w/ NiMH rechargeables) via voltage regulator, and they in turn power the PF receivers and PoweredUp hubs. RCX' can go directly w/ track DC (buffered with NiMH's). Advantage: Track polarity, sudden polarity changes no problem (why's etc.), 99.5% all LEGO stuff. Best, Thorsten Too difficult for profit maximization. Best, Thorsten
  20. The Lego Railway Series

    A series of trains from a Lego Railway!

    Hello there! I'm The LEGO Railway Series! For those of you who don't know me from twitter, I model characters from The Railway Series (Thomas the Tank Engine) but I do so as realistically as possible using the actual basis for the characters. So I posted here on Eurobricks once before and just never kept up with the site or the thread. So I'm just gonna start over again! I'm gonna be using this thread as a central place to post all of my stuff to make things easier for myself. So what better model to get this started off with than Thomas! Everyone knows Thomas is an E2, so that's what I've built. He's got as many bells and whistles as I could cram onto the model. He's fully motorized using Power Functions (IR receiver and an M motor) and is powered by a 9v battery in the firebox area. (it needs a custom wire adaptor to transfer the power to the PF components) He also has an entire cab interior with controls and everything. Aside from the side rods which use modified liftarms to attach the flex tubing, the 9v battery adaptor wire, and some custom wheels (I plan on using Breckland Bricks wheels), the entire model is Legal and buildable. Unfortunately I've not been able to physically build this model yet, but I plan on it by before the year is up! Thomas by The Lego Railway Series, on Flickr Thomas_2 by The Lego Railway Series, on Flickr Thomas_3 by The Lego Railway Series, on Flickr Thomas_4 by The Lego Railway Series, on Flickr
  21. allanp

    Lego clearly doesnt want my money!

    When I think back to being a kid in the 9v era of trains (with the metal covered train tracks) I remember you could get a metroliner train and there was a pretty sweet yellow station you could get and an extra double decker carriage (although just an extra regular carriage same as in the metroliner set would also have been great) and you could set the speed with a big yellow dial and there was catalogues with well thought out scenes of these trains going to various places and then you could go to the toy shop and see these huge train sets and you could lift the lid and stare and all the lovely pieces through the clear plastic cellophane and it all added up to something just a little bit magical. Maybe it's the curse if aging but that magic seems to be something they don't care to create anymore. There's no metal tracks like real train tracks have, only a toy. There's no big yellow operators dial, only a little remote with a cheap little grey button to click. There's no well thought out scenes of these trains in a living world of creativity, only a too brightly lit and somewhat sterile picture of a toy train. There's no lifting the lid on the box to be able to see all the actual pieces you could buy, take home and play with, just a boring cereal box for your £200 set, and maybe a built copy of the model in the shop behind glass which you can never touch. A big dial may not seem like something you'd miss, or metal on the tracks, or the packaging of the mid 90s, but it adds up. It's not something you can explain but what of that magic you felt as a kid do the penny pinchers have a formula or a pie chart for anyway? I don't think the issue is a lack of train offerings. We got new PU train a couple years back, from memory we seem to get the same passenger and freight combo every few years as always, plus a few additional more adult aimed locos thrown in. Such feelings appear more symptomatic of a deeper issue. What does "for adults" even mean to Lego cos I'm not quite sure. The Titanic? Yes for sure I get why that is for adults. But a 6 wide loco with no carriages, why exactly is that for adults? Is it because a loco on its own is too boring for kids, is that what "for adults" means in this case, boring?! What would I love to see as an adult? Some of the magic I felt as a kid! 1) Metal tracks, just like a real train. The metal track system might even be cheaper to make than all this PU stuff! 2) A big controller with a big dial or lever, one that's powered from a wall plug so no need for batteries. Make it feel like a train you OPERATE, not simply play with. 3) No more cereal boxes. These are expensive and even somewhat luxury toys that deserves to be shown off and celebrated, not stuffed in a cheap cereal box. You might say the box is not that important, but a sheet of clear cellophane and a vacuum formed tray isn't exactly expensive. I got an Easter egg the other day, and it had the outer box, a cellophane window, a vacuum formed tray, a separate tray for the added chocolates, and it just felt like the manufacturer cared. Yes, I know it's meaningless packaging, but I am a humble human and it brings that bit of magic to me. Surely a £200 Lego set deserves, and would benefit from, just as much of a celebration of its content from its packaging than a £10 chocolate egg! Let me lift the lid to see the tracks, the motor, the big speed dial and all the pieces I can take home with me! 4) Add on sets. I don't mean the too many sets of the overblown my train era. But let's get a decently sized and detailed station (not just a platform with a bicycle), extra train cars, and a level crossing. 5) More track elements like larger track radii and light up signals. Then use these elements to build up much larger city scenes in the catalogues with different sets and stuff, let the imagination go wild with all the possibilities. To my mind it's these things that are missing. Right now Lego offers just a toy in a cereal box with a clear and bright, but also lifeless and sterile picture on the box. That's just the bare minimum offering of a toy from a corporation. I know that's the reality but Lego is more expensive than most other toys from most other corporations so I really think it needs to work harder on bringing the magic back as well. If they wanted to try something really radical, how does a roughly Titanic sized working air powered Flying Scotsman sound? Surely that would sell lots of copies yes?
  22. Stuartn

    LEGO Trains 2022

    I would agree that the cargo train is better than the passenger train. I really like the fcat that the passenger train has great carriages, and the nose can be modified into a more appealing shape if preferred, whereas that may be more difficlt to do when the colour scheme and shaping of the train is defined by a large moulded nose (that said, if the moulded nose is done well, like 60197, I do like them). I am finding it hard to find a similar train in service, though this is probably the closest: I agree fully, that it will probably include powered up lights, which version however, I am not sure, it could be that the light is underneath the slope.
  23. icemorons

    LEGO Trains 2022

    Color choices aside, I think TLG designers have done plenty here to like. Personally, I really like the lime green, if that's the actual color. I like the brick-built locomotive front. I like that the locomotive is using a 6x28 train base, rather than the usual 3x 6x24 from the prior two passenger trains. I like that both passenger cars are made using the depressed-center half pieces, similar to the auto-rack's construction on the freight train. I'm assuming the 6x34 depressed-center single base is now obsolete. Overall, this 60337 passenger train is considerably longer than its immediate predecessors by a considerable margin. TLG wisely chose to include 8 straight tracks, rather than the usual 4. Included lighting for the locomotive is a huge plus. I anticipate it will use the existing 88005 Powered Up Light, rather than a new part. If it does, that's fantastic, as I have yet to get my hands on one. If that works well, I'll get some to illuminate 60197 and 60198. 6 Minifigs when we usually get 3 or 4, that's good. Using the new double-door 1x6x5 piece is great, and we'll be getting 4 of those! I will definitely get two of these 60337 sets to combine into a single double-ended train, in time. I'm also in for at least one 60336 cargo train. Day one purchases? Nope. But I have four years to strike while they are on sale... Now, where are the pictures of the train station? (or have I not scrolled down far enough to see yet?)
  24. Hi! I recently bought the LEGO Boost kit for my son and he was thrilled! It was my first encounter with the Powered Up "Move Hub" and it seemed to work fine even though I had some troubles with updating the firmware. But I thought it had a weird kind of sound from the motor but I just thought that's how it sounds. In LEGO Boost there is a tutorial where you write a small little car that follow simple instructions. I found that the forward instruction didn't always move the car foward (sometimes it just turned instead). So I lifted the move hub up in the air and ran an instruction with FORWARD FORWARD FORWARD FORWARD and the A motor works flawlessly but the B motor did one of four forwards and it did it with a weird squeaky sound. I don't know much about electric motors but I always believed that it's a bad idea to spin them "manually", e.g. do not push the RC car manually. Even so, I tried spinning the wheels on the move hub manually and the A motor turns smooth and with a predictable sound but the B motor does not. It has a squeaky noise to it, it is much "tougher" to move and it also feels like it's "uneven", for a complete circle it's easier half of the time and then much tougher before I have rotated the wheel one lap. It's like a wheel that isn't completely round. So this problem was there from the start/from the factory, it did not break when we used the motor. My son is really sad about this and we waited 3 (!) months for this package because of delivery delays and replacements are out of stock. Is there any hope to repairing this or should I just send it back to the store for a replacement? I have a video of the problem and the sound, not sure if the video link works but I hope so: Video of the motor problem (18 seconds, 38 MB) I do have small screw drivers to open the screws but I don't really know how the "clips" beneath the motors work and I don't want to bend excessively since I still have warranty on this thing. Any help is appreciated!
  25. Hello everyone, first of all, I'd like to thank @Jim for giving his blessing for me to write about our new project / Kickstarter campaign. So, when speaking about "us" I really mean Till and myself (Yannic) who spent the better part of the last 10 months working on Keybrick One. It's a rechargeable battery pack for the Powered Up Hub 88009 we started working on as the battery waste (and fiddly replacement process for said batteries) really bothered us a lot.After a first round of prototypes which looked like that: Over the course of a few months we evolved the design quite a bit for keybrick to become a replacement of the full lower shell of the Hub. It's become quite good in our opinion with being both more powerful than using alkaline cells (like drift-mode more powerful :)) and having a way longer play time than when using rechargeables in the hub (actually comparable to alkalines). Now we're launching Keybrick as a Kickstarter project because we think its a great addition to what TLC did with the Powered Up series, which really lack that rechargeable option in our opinion. The Campaign is here: Keybrick One on Kickstarter We'd like to use this to open the discussion with everyone intereste in the Powered Up series and are really eager to see what questions you all will come up with. All the best, - Yannic