Scorpio

This is exactly what I’m looking for. Thank you! I am trying to figure out how to switch sections on and off using only a GBC ball and this video makes it look like it should be possible.

I rarely post but I check this site and other Lego Technic sites like Sariel's and GBC websites and I am stumped on a way to mechanically make this work. I am trying to use the Lego differential in a way that I have not seen others use it, at least in the searches I have performed. Limitations: Input motor needs to constantly run I would like to do this purely mechanically. Cannot use Mindstorms. Would prefer to not use switches unless necessary. Problem: I am trying to use a Lego differential to power two separate sections of my build. I don't have access to easy pictures so please see the simple diagram below. I have power on one axle and the two other axles will drive separate sections. I would like Section A to run constantly (or could potentially stop when Section B is running). Section B is currently being held up by a ratchet that completely stops the gear from turning until it is released, When released, Section B will run one full revolution then stop again until the ratchet is released again. The ratchet release is not on a pattern. It can be released 20 times in a minute then not released again for an hour. The issue that I am running into is that Section B currently has a higher load than Section A; therefore, when Section B's ratchet is released for the gear to run one full revolution, the load is heavier than Section A and Section B does not move. Solutions I can think of: Make the load on Section A larger than that on Section B so that when the ratchet releases, Section B will be easier to move than Section A and the differential will transfer power to Section B and it will work. I would rather not arbitrarily add to Section A's load unless that is the only way. Otherwise, maybe engage a ratchet on Section A to stop that section completely but then disengage exactly after Section B has completed one revolution and at the same time, stop Section B from running. I would think this is more difficult since at least one Section will need to run at a time so the motor and differential don't break but I could be wrong. I'm currently using the 28-tooth differential with 3 - 12-tooth bevel gears (BL: 62821b) inside a 5x7 technic frame Simple diagram: Section B ----------|---------- Section A -----| Differential |----- Input Motor Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Brick Booty - Lego Coin Pusher I am finally getting around to taking pictures and video of this build. It was originally built for Brickworld 2015 and it was a hit with the public as well as participants. This is similar to coin pusher games you see in the arcade. Players insert a 2x2 brick or smaller in the top of the machine on either side. The bricks will then fall down a ramp and land on top of the pirate ship underneath the bridge. The pirate ship moves forward and backward pushing bricks over the edge of the ship then eventually over the edge of the water. All pieces that fall over the water the player can keep. Here is a video with some of the pictures below as well as video of the game in action. 1 - Brick Booty Front In addition to the game play this was also my first attempt at mosaics. 2 - Brick Booty Right - Skull 3 - Brick Booty Left - Flag The back is a large door that allows access to the mechanics of the game as well as allowing me to completely remove the playing surface if I would like. I have yet to pull the whole thing out of the cabinet but in theory I can. The back is secured with a simple locking mechanism. The mechanics are relatively straight forward. In the future I will apply a bit of lubricant to the gears when running for an entire convention. Technic experts and GBC guys could probably come up with a better design but this was my first real MOC with moving parts. I have since made another coin pusher machine and have a better gearbox and mechanism. This particular mechanism worked pretty reliably at Brickworld but when there was too much resistance on the pusher it did pop up. All I needed to do was to push on the top and allow the pusher to plow through and it worked fine afterward. If worse came to worst, the top was able to come off. This allows me to fix problems but also makes it easy to remove my Plexiglas and clear out the machine after shows. Like all real arcade coin pushers, this one has a "rake". If you notice above on the playing field there are two holes on either side of the water. Any bricks that fall in those holes are mine. The full "rake" tray runs the width of the machine. This tray, when removed, allows me access to my working tilt mechanism. I did not take pictures because it is almost impossible but the reward shoot has two ramps. When winnings fall over the edge they fall to the left then reach another ramp that directs them to the right and finally to the collection tray at the bottom. The top of the right ramp is a trapdoor. That trapdoor is activated by a basic pulley system. If a player shakes the machine too much then a Lego "rock" (big heavy Lego clump) falls inside the machine, pulls a pin and activates the trapdoor causing everything that falls over the edge to fall inside the machine. The sign is brick-built and easily removable. Questions, comments, and criticism are welcome. Thanks for reading. PS: Mods please feel free to move this topic to a different forum if it doesn't belong here.

Here is pirzyk's train running last weekend at our show. It was 42 cars but not nearly as long as Tony's. Depending on the layout size, we plan to go bigger at Brickworld, especially with ME curves.

Loosely based off the scoreboard at Wrigley Field. Complete with removable divisions and game score. Go Cubs! Lego MLB Scoreboard

It all depends on when you play. The overall payout percentage is around 95%, similar to slot machines, but in varying rounds of playing 50 bricks at a time there were a number of times you would have won a lot more than you put in. The video I made had mostly payout clips because they are more interesting than non-payout clips.

I would recommend brick-built roads. There is an issue of Railbricks that has different standards you can build. I'm partial to the 1xN bricks to build my road with 6 wide sidewalks on either side. They can be built on 32x32 baseplates and highly customized.

Another awesome time at Brickworld. Great to hang out with everyone until the very wee hours of the morning. I am already looking forward to 2014!

Here is a preview of my MOC for Brickworld 2013, the Villa Park Metra Station. Villa Park is a small suburb outside of Chicago, Illinois and Metra is the commuter rail. Comments, questions and critiques are always welcome. Reference pictures of the real building More pictures can be found here:

Believe it or not I am actually adding to this build. i would like to include another section of rail and platforms on the other side. The current layout is 8 baseplates x 3 baseplates. Also, thanks to whoever fixed the title. It has been awhile since I have posted a MOC to EB and I forgot to at MOC:.

Dale, let me know if you need help with anything. This is Scott by the way.

Or for those who spent hours upon hours building rock cliffs on site THEN deciding to make the water that was washing up against the rocks look prettier. Pushing 1x1 rounds down with a screwdriver isn't fun. Still worth it though. I miss the old Pirate display from last year. Can't wait to see everyone again soon!

Never had a title then got two in two days: Thankful for the padding was given by Big Cam because I had to build my layout for Brickworld on the table and the padding was helping my knees while I was working on detail work for 5 hours. DHCP1121 was given by Hinckley while at dinner after Brickworld because that was my old name on EB before I was forced to change by Stash2Sixx

Panic is starting to subside a little since Monday. My builds are coming along but it is going to come down to the wire especially since I go to Vegas on Friday and don't get back home until Tuesday morning then have a Cubs game Tuesday night. Needless to say I will probably have a very busy Wednesday finishing my building and packing. I can't wait!

I've had these pictures for a while and have been meaning to post them. Sadly, this is the cleanest my LEGO room has been in months. Enjoy!

Impressive build. A gas station was one my my first MOCs and I always like seeing more gas stations to see what details people like to add.

I actually enjoy sorting. I usually listen to music or catch up on podcasts. I refuse to watch TV because it distracts me from sorting. I have been sorting for the better part of a year on and off. Right now I am in the final stages of finally getting everything back into my LEGO room. Now while I don't mind the sorting, I hate putting it away. My storage system is so-so. I like to sort by color and piece so I have hundreds of plastic baggies inside containers. The only time it is easy is when the piece is on my wall. I'll hopefully be posting pictures of my room later once I'm finally done with this major sort. As for new pieces and sets I buy, all of that goes into a box "To be sorted" and once that is full I start all over again.

Registered and looking forward to another great Brickworld. Can't wait to see old friends and meet new ones!

I actually was missing the same bag. I called customer support and shipped a new one out right away. Took about 10 days. It was a bag on its own, not a bag within a bag. If you still have the box they will ask for numbers on the tape that closes the box so they know which plant it came from. Mine was 01S1.

I hope the color combination gives it away even without stickers. First off, this is a work in progress but I figured I have completed enough to show a few pictures and get some comments, advice, criticism. Let me know what you think and I'll post more pics of my progress when I achieve any. Stickers and a food mart are coming soon. EDIT: Updated pictures start at Post 10.

Even though I have a Shell station in my personal layout... Shell Station Pics Link to my Shell Station EB thread I still had to vote for 6397.

You're off to a good start. I too tried to make an elevated rail. I used the 2x2x10 girders that Tearloch33 recommended. For a home layout elevated rail is nice. As for making it to shows, I only brought my elevated to one show and never again. BUT if you come up with a way to make it modular and nice looking I may have to try again. Speaking of trying, here is my old topic on my elevated. It might help you with making your curves. Making Curved Track Look Better

I too helped Polish Guy and Norro put together the sea weeds but don't add me to that amazing list of people who put forth the real effort in making that layout a huge success. It was amazing to see it go up in two days and World of Lights was the icing on the cake.