quilkin

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by quilkin

  1. Hi, I've only just seen this; I've been away from Lego for a few months. I think it's a perfect candidate for Ideas. and so well presented. Pity you couldn't get the original colours you planned, I prefer it as it was. I did make a (somewhat bigger) traction engine about eight years ago (wow, was it really that long ago?!) and it's still up here if you're interested. Your design is so much more practical than mine! Well done.
  2. quilkin

    Two modulars better than one?

    Thanks for the feedback. I agree with most of the suggested improvements, but was limited by my decision to make it more of a challenge by only using the bricks in the original set.
  3. quilkin

    Two modulars better than one?

    I'm sure this has been done many times before, and would be interested to see how others have approached it. Rather than just build a modular according to the instructions, I decided to split one in half (the Parisian Restaurant in this case) and make two 'fa├žade-only' buildings using the same set of parts. It was quite a challenge to use only the parts in the original set*, although I haven't changed the design very much. Here's the finished model ; the right-hand side is pretty much built as per instructions. and this is the 'inside' view (I find it better to see the insides of buildings like this, rather than having to remove layers): and here's the parts left over from the original set: *I have to make an exception to the 'original parts only' , of course: I used two 32x16 baseplates rather than one 32x32. And I used extra technic bricks to make the extra 'joiners'.
  4. Very good - I like this; I have built similar constructions but not so round! I can't quite count how many parts needed - is that 60 of each (curved slope / hinge / clip etc)? It's not really 'Technic' though so maybe better in the 'special' forum (sculpture & art)
  5. I've managed to construct an double 'A' frame (download here) but am unable to find a way of attaching certain pieces to others which aren't at right angles to the base. For example I'm trying to add 1x8 tiles to the side of the technic bricks forming the main frame sides, using some Technic Pins 1/2. Managed to get one of them to 'stick' (on the reinforcement support) but not the others. Is there a special technique required to get this these things to click into place?
  6. Well I thought they were. I set one of them at 90 degrees, then used the clone function. But some of the cloned studs (on the half-pins) came out at random angles, seemingly dependent on an irrelevant part sitting behind the beam, not connected to the pin directly. You live and learn. Thanks again. I now have to find out why my mouse right-click-shift pan action has stopped working (well, it pans at one hundredth of the speed it used to!) . But that's another story.
  7. Brilliant, thank you. I would never had noticed that on my own. So in LDD the half-pins don't have rotational symmetry, unlike in real life. Is this a bug, or is the only mechanism that will allow parts to snap to pins if the pins are placed in angled beams? But I'm still not quite understanding this. I re-oriented the pins in the beams in one corner of the structure (the one nearest to the viewer as downloaded) and that worked fine. But the same method didn't work for the beams opposite.
  8. Sorry about the link, corrected now. I don't understand what you mean about the half pins, do they have some sort of non-symmetry in the circular section?
  9. Hello, I am trying to construct a simple 'A' frame in LDD. It's based on Pythagoras 5:12:13 triangles. I'm pretty sure I've done the counting correctly (i.e. counting spaces between holes rather than holes themselves) and I've used the hinge tool to get the angles as close as possible to 22.62 degrees which I think is correct (arctan of 5/12). But the holes just won't line up exactly enough to get pins through. The base cross-beam is 54 spaces wide; the top is (or should be) 4 spaces. If you imagine the frame to be composed of two right-angles triangles, I should be able to put in cross-beams of 14, 24, 34.... spaces, which correspond to gaps of 12 spaces vertical height (13 spaces along the diagonal)- i.e. adding a pair of 5:12:13 triangles each time. It doesn't seem to help that when I set an angle, and then swivel the drawing around (to look from the other side) it's changed slightly - e.g. 22.62 becomes 157.42 when it should be 157.38. Can anyone help? The LXF file is here. This is the beginning of what will be a fairly complex construction so it's got to be correct!
  10. Cheers, thanks. All done, can get on now.
  11. Thanks for the help (so far) .... using a temporary hinge I lifted your A-frame vertically but then it wouldn't sit down on the baseplate. That in itself may not be a problem but if I clone the whole frame and reverse it (to make the other side) it won't join with cross-beams because the spacing isn't whole numbers of studs. New attempt here
  12. I built this model earlier this year. It has some Technic elements, including a motor, to animate it. It's now been shown at a one-day exhibition and created quite a bit of interest. I've now been asked if it's possible for a semi-permanent display at the site of the building on which it's modelled. It would be protected by a screen / glass case of some kind. At the moment it's powered by a Lego 9v 'medium' motor and a Lego battery box, with removable batteries. At the one-day event I manually started and stopped the mechanism to demonstrate to people as they passed by (i.e. I was present at all times). I also had a supply of spare batteries! But for a more permanent exhibition, where I won't be present, it needs a different arrangement. So, some questions: If I can arrange a suitable mains power supply, rather than a battery box, is the 9V motor up to the task of running several times a day for 6 months? (I think it would be started by a push-button, and run for perhaps 10 seconds at a time - I can cope with the control for this) If not, can anyone suggest a suitable motor that is compatible with Lego as far as possible (i.e. mounting it and fitting a gear to the output shaft). The workload required is very small. At present the drive is taken through a couple of universal joints and some speed-reduction gears. Should I glue the joints onto the axles for greater reliability? Any other reinforcements suggested? Rather than looking through the original thread you can see a video of the model working here. I'd be grateful for responses from anyone who's built working models for long-term performance before. Thanks.
  13. quilkin

    Motorising for exhibition

    Ok, perhaps I should be more specific. Does it remember the actions after a power-down (i.e. if mains power is removed?). In this respect one of the Mindstorms bricks would suffice but AFAIK they all run from batteries rather than mains converters. I imagine it has the older-style connecting cables, so I'd need to solder up a converter cable. Good point. I'll need to change that then, but it means more gears to get a low enough speed, and space is at a bit of a premium (the motor and gearing is housed under the floor of the building). The next challenge!
  14. quilkin

    Motorising for exhibition

    That sounds interesting. Clutch gears may be a bit tricky; the lifts themselves were driven via steel ropes (will be Lego cord or similar in the model) from the winding drum outside the engine house. One lift wold be going up while the other goes down (cords wound opposite ways round the drums) . I'd have to use the clutches to spin when the cord tension was too high (i.e. the list reaches the top of its travel). But actually, now I think about it more, a clutch would also prevent problems due to potential snagging elsewhere. Anyone know if there's a specification for the Control Center anywhere I can download, before I decide to buy one?
  15. quilkin

    Motorising for exhibition

    Thanks. I think I'm Ok with the electrics / control side of things, assuming I can use a standard 9V motor. I'll probably build a control system using an Arduino, with just a simple push-button to set the thing going forward for 30 seconds, slow down then reverse for 30 seconds, then stop automatically (I'll need microswitches on the lift mechanism to prevent over-runs). My post was more about the mechanical side of things. I queried LvdH's post earlier about the train controller because it said it didn't use batteries, but didn't say what it did use! The battery box and train controller don't really help because they offer a manual way of controlling the direction & speed: this would be courting disaster in a public exhibition! A microswitch would prevent an overrun, but then how would it start again (without some additional control logic anyway)?
  16. quilkin

    Motorising for exhibition

    Thanks for all the responses. It'll be easy enough to add silicone grease to the moving parts. Nobody seems to think the motor isn't up to the task, so that's good - I'll leave it as it is and have a replacement ready if required. That's a great comparison. I won't need to worry too much then. Puzzled by this, does that controller run straight off a 12V supply then? The engine needs to run at a constant speed to be realistic, although it does reverse now and again: The real one was used to power a lift for carrying ore to the surface. I've yet to build the left mechanism; simulating an underground mineshaft with a Lego model could be interesting.....
  17. The two clutches are in parallel so it needs twice the torque to make them start slipping. I suspect that when the model was being designed, they tried a single clutch to start with and found (like you) that the torque required to drive the mechanisms was too much for one clutch. So they added another. A third in parallel (if there was room somehow) would extend the idea and make it safer than the fixed gear some people are trying.
  18. quilkin

    Older Than Dirt!

    Guess I'd better join. I'm 64 and currently building the BWE. I had Meccano (UK, and the original, Erector) when young, and still have some now as well as Lego. This year I also started a Bricklink shop as a retirement 'hobby' but it's now taking more time than building
  19. quilkin

    Unusual building for Lego?

    Here is my model of one of the 'engine houses' near to me in Cornwall, UK. It maybe the first engine house to be built in Lego, tell me if not! These engine houses were built a couple of centuries ago ; each building housed a steam engine which would be used to power lifts to take men up and down into the mines, or to power pumps to keep the mines clear of water. My model is based on the engine house at East Pool Mine (more info here). I'm not happy with the railings around the top platform; there is a Lego part that matches the original shape exactly but the scale's all wrong. Many more photos on my brickshelf page. The model is animated; the flywheel turns and the inside cylinder beams activate. I'll link to a video shortly.
  20. quilkin

    Unusual building for Lego?

    Sorry for the late reply; I've been out of the country for a month (doing my other hobby - cycling). Yes, it is motorised - I have now made a video: Eanair - I saw your blog about the pump room. It looked promising but as you say no pint in continuing if you don't want to. I almost gave up on the engine house several times! I didn't see your link to my Brickshelf though.
  21. quilkin

    Unusual building for Lego?

    Many thanks for all the positive comments. Gives me confidence to write to the National Trust (who own the original building) to see if they might want to display it as part of their visitor experience....
  22. quilkin

    Help with MOC window, please!

    Thanks. I have now moved the window back half a brick, using dark tan jumpers as a widowsill. This offsets the window better. Actually I wasn't really trying to replicate the grout; the stones vary from light tan to red-brown although the bit around this particular window is darker than average. I could use light tan plates for the grout, and darker bricks for the stones themselves, but cost comes into it; tan bricks are cheaper than darker ones, and I already have a reasonable stock from the Tower Bridge set. (I need nearly 3000 -studs worth of bricks to finish the walls, and there are eight windows like that one shown..... the curved windows are only available in tan and sand green) I hope so. Watch this space for the finished building, I'm pretty sure it will be unique amongst Lego constructions.....
  23. quilkin

    Help with MOC window, please!

    Hello, I am trying to replicate windows in a local building, which is rough stone with a brick arch above the windows: I have searched for ideas of how to do the arch, including looking at Deborah Higdon's flickr pages.This is the best I have so far: Problem is the gaps around the 2x1 plates used for the arch, and also the necessary gaps alongside to even up the other bricks/plates. There isn't a standard arched brick that fits (I don't think). Any suggestions for improving what I have? Thanks
  24. quilkin

    Help with MOC window, please!

    That's brilliant, thanks Ron. What I hadn't considered is to elevate the 8x2 to make it effectively 3 bricks high. Isn't in LDD yet, but it's here http://alpha.brickli...age?P=20309#T=P I did try grey and tan, but it didn't look right somehow. Perhaps I'll try again, grey is easier to find than the dark tans/red-brown parts. Thanks again Thanks. Yes, that makes sense, but the 1x1's would need some extra support since they aren't 'properly' connected. Sounds good. I'll remember that!
  25. quilkin

    Help with MOC window, please!

    Thanks for replies. AFAIK there isn't an arch the correct size. Tried them all! An inverted cheese would be good, but doesn't exist . Bigger inverted slopes may work but the 33 degree one isn't available in tan.