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Everything posted by codefox421

  1. codefox421

    BRmk1 [MOC]

    I've always really liked the look of the BRmk1 for no reason. In my effort to 7-wide-ify the Emerald Night, I decided to make a MOC of this classic carriage. I designed it in LDD using few references and viewing them infrequently, so it mostly just takes on the more distinguishing aspects of what make me love the BRmk1 rather than being a strict LEGO representation of a real-life thing. Having room to seat two minifigs side-by-side while retaining the curved sides was also something I strove for in the design. I played around a bit with the livery. I think just about everyone knows train window frames in tan are ridiculously expensive, so I first tried a crimson and cream livery (red and white). The white windows were less ridiculously expensive. It looks damn good on it's own, but with the Emerald Night locomotive, not so much. It was missing the rich earthy tones that the tan and brown possessed. So when I found out the 2x2x2/3 curved slope was available in dark brown, it was time for a repaint. Which color scheme do you like better? I chose to go with the more available and less pricey square windows, and I think the effect is okay. Though not the BRmk1, there are other coaches from the UK's railway past that have more boxy looking windows. This one is an open composite type just like my MOC: Finally, thanks go to my gf for taking the pics with her fancy camera. I've attached the LXF should anyone want it. 10194-emerald-night-carriage-tourist-06.lxf
  2. Yeah, and that works fine for 90 degree corners. The trouble is that I was mostly excited about being able to do things like this, which uses a single R56 and doesn't have room for a conversion track on each side of it.
  3. My issue with the last minute connector swap is twofold. Firstly, ME Models made the above statement, and that is why I backed for metal rails. I build entirely battery operated, but my LUG won't give up 9V yet. If I had known the ME Models rails would be incompatible with my LUG's existing track, I would have only backed for plastic track! Secondly, I take issue with the late-minute nature of the announcement. This is something that should have been revealed before or at the time that ME Models opened up orders to backers for additional metal track/geometries. If they had, I would, again, not have contributed money toward a rail system that is incompatible with my LUG's existing rail collection. It's been over two years, I still haven't received my entire plastic reward, and now I find the additional metal rails I've ordered for the benefit of my LUG will be incompatible with the track we already own. I've tried to be positive for the last two years, but this is basically the last straw. The whole project smacks of mismanagement and broken promises. On the bright side, maybe @coaster's project will get more support now. edit: formatting
  4. Is anyone else far less excited about these now that they require adapter tracks or is it just me?
  5. codefox421

    BrickTracks: different curves, PF/9V compatible

    Thanks for the photos and video, pirzyk and CrispyBassist! These are looking really great, Coaster! I hope they fair better in the next round of kickstarter crowdsourcing. I believe they'll have a chance to get funded. Hi HoMa! For lasting color, dying is probably the best bet. A shapeways representative once directed me to this article when I inquired about how to color their white nylon (WSF) material:
  6. codefox421

    [Tutorial] Track Designer on Mac OS

    You may also be interested in BlueBrick, a track designer made specifically with LEGO in mind. It's windows-only like TD, but since you seem to have a knack for running exe on osx it should be no problem!
  7. codefox421

    Getting back with my Lego trains after 10 years

    That looks super fun! It's always great to see someone dusting off their old bricks. Please do share a video!
  8. Here's a silly little video I made last year and never shared. Both trains are controlled from my phone via my open source Bluetooth receiver. Stay tuned for the bloopers at the end. Hope you enjoy!
  9. codefox421

    Video – Horizon Express & Emerald Night

    Yes, they are. Zephyr1934 makes them, and sells them over here: Surprisingly, I don't, not of controlling a train anyway. In the video at the end of the first post in this topic, I briefly demonstrate controlling a truck with my phone: And in this topic, I demonstrate controlling a train with an NXT intelligent brick via Bluetooth: That's the best I have right now.
  10. codefox421

    Custom 9V tracks

    Exciting news! Can't wait! It's a bit late in the game, but with your demonstration of breaking the R324(?) crossover into A,B,C/D have you considered something similar for the R104? Maybe just two parts A (has the points) and B/C (has the frog/double-cross), so that the end piece, B, can simply be swapped out for a double crossover piece, C? Connection looseness is probably a result of the polishing that Shapeways performs (sometimes, at random) on Black Strong & Flexible prints. I highly recommend only printing in White Strong & Flexible; I have never had mechanical tolerance issues with it. Also, you can dye White prints with Rit dye, so probably can achieve grey:
  11. codefox421

    Rare earth magnets?

    I measured one this evening. It's 10.2mm in diameter and 7.4mm thick.
  12. codefox421

    Bogie Comparison

    My guess is, with proper lubricating, both of these could travel even farther. I know some people on the forum, of which jtlan is one, lubricate their wheel sets. I've experimented with automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant, hoping it would attract less dirt than a traditional lube, and it works to some extent, but the silicon-based stuff that jtlan uses lubricates much better.
  13. codefox421

    Custom 9V tracks

    How are the tolerances with the polished metallic? I haven't tried that one before, but I have tried black strong & flexible (BSF), which wound up being polished. The polishing removed a lot of material and basically destroyed any clutch power it might have had. What's been your experience?
  14. codefox421

    What is a good starter trainset to kitbash bluetooth RC?

    Hi BlueRailTrains. Interestingly enough, I was looking into your work recently because of my open source LEGO Bluetooth project, which you can find at It would appear that your device is closer to a traditional DCC decoder than my Bluetooth receiver or an SBrick. Am I reading that correctly?
  15. codefox421

    ESP8266 WIFI and LEGO Trains

    With a little bit of rerouting, you could probably drop one of these into the driver boards I've designed. It looks like it has the same footprint as the HM-06/11/13 Bluetooth modules I've been using. Edit: you'd probably want to omit the ATtiny841, but I'm not 100% sure that'd be possible; it looks like the ESP8266 only has three PWM outputs, which is one less than is needed for two motor outputs.
  16. codefox421

    3mm hoses/bars

    jtlan has tubing from McMaster Carr, and I've used some of it. It's decent stuff. Here's a photo of what it is:
  17. Just curious: metal or plastic (or both)?
  18. codefox421

    Spares for 9v train motor (help)

    I recommend using thinner wire than legoman666 recommends. I initially tried 0.025 inch phosphor bronze wire, which was too thick. It caused extra friction, slowing down and heating up the motor. I inevitably settled on wire of 0.02 inch diameter (about 0.5 mm) that I think is beryllium copper. (I don't know for sure because I got it out of a scrap pile at a local model railroad club.) Beryllium copper tends to be more expensive than phosphor bronze, but it has better spring characteristics than phosphor bronze, so to get a similar springiness at a lower cost use phosphor bronze wire thinner than 0.02 inches (0.5 mm).
  19. codefox421

    Rare earth magnets?

    I'd love to know too. Adding non-LEGO magnets to the altBricks holders might prove to be more economical than bricklinking those old style couplers.
  20. Some explanation like this should probably be included in the first post, so that mac users don't have to scour the thread, hoping to find someone offering a compatible archive, in order to learn that this is not a Windows-only project.
  21. I've put together an open source solution for controlling Power Functions using Bluetooth. Back when I started this, I had heard of the upcore, but it promised to be expensive and do a lot more than necessary. (Now that project doesn't even seem to exist anymore.) I've designed more of a 1:1 replacement for the standard PF IR receiver. Go here to find all the delicious source files: Reading the readme can help in getting started: Here is a video of a very early prototype: I've built an Android app that looks just like the Power Functions remotes: I'd love to hear your thoughts about different app designs that could be useful. The cost per device is about $26. Everything squeezes into the inside of a theoretical 3x4 brick. I'm working on designing an enclosure (read: flashy plastic box), so please tell me what you would be looking for in terms of how it integrates with other LEGO bricks. Thanks! P.S. I'm trying to keep things licensed under an MIT license as much as possible. It is the most open of open source licenses! P.P.S. This topic is maybe inadequately named now.
  22. Had fun running my trains around ME Models' wide radius curves last weekend. The horizon express retains so much more speed through those R104s.
  23. codefox421

    SBrick for PF trains- a first impression review

    I think their pricing is bounded by the price of the Bluetooth module that they use rather than the hardware needed to add an extra two outputs. If you're looking for a Bluetooth receiver that costs less, you could check out my open source Bluetooth project (link in my signature). Legoman666 has put together a few for people in the past, so you could ask how much he usually charges.
  24. codefox421

    Custom 9V tracks

    Why not design the offset directly into the ties? I would image that anyone with a sizeable, non-permanent layout (read: LUGs) would hate to have to place a million jumper plates just to set up track.
  25. codefox421

    3D-printed monorail

    Thanks for the reply. A Shapeways rep explained that Black Strong & Flexible sometimes gets polished without warning. At those prices, you'd better watch out! The rep suggested printing in Unpolished White Strong & Flexible, which is guaranteed to never be polished, and pointed me to a DIY article for dyeing 3D prints. Could be useful for matching the light gray.