pinioncorp

Why don't we do a LDD community build where everyone adds a carriage? We each add something different to create something unique. Just set the guidelines such as parts, width, length and height limits.

Woah there guys, I'm making a new map for the server, should be ready by the end of the week. The intention is that you'll be able to use commands to spawn materials to build to your hearts content, but please be patient. The server will either operate on a whitelist, or guests will have no building priveliges, so at least they can look around. If you could post (or PM me) your game names, I will whitelist you. Edit: Users will need to private message me for building access on this server. Only then I can tell you're a real Eurobricks user and not just a griefer. You need 10 posts on Eurobricks to use PMs.

Okay, I have a server up. Hosted in the U.S. 100 megabit connection, 1 gig of RAM. I'll attempt transfer the new map across tomorrow. If you have any mods you want on, please tell me. EDIT by Scouts: ID removed due to griefing

I have made a map for a friend's server, using worldpainter, that is lower than the usual terrain. Therefore you don't need to dig as far down to find the most useful materials, and you can build your creations a lot taller. The only problem is that the boundaries revert back to normal terrain. The map is still plenty large though, it shouldn't be a problem.

Are people still interested in a server? I might rent one for a month to test it out. If I do, what sort of play would we be after? Survival? Freebuild? Do I make a map to build on with more airspace? What mods would you recommend and why?

While I've been at collecting for only a short time, I really find that I prefer the older colours, namely the greys, better then the new ones. They are more earthy and realistic. The blue shade really doesn't work for the gritty real life. But they are becoming very expensive in the common parts (1×2, etc.) so I have to use them sparingly. As it is now, I treat the old shades as rare colours and use them accordingly.

Looks fantastic! Shame about it being visible from one side though, as the street side is really great too. If it has to be seen from one side only, it might be an idea to put a clock, in the same way, on the platform side too as it looks so nice. It it were my model, I would tile the platform; it looks more finished with a relfective surface.

Great review, thanks. While I don't use 9V, I can still see these being an invaluable resource. The cost for straight track, even the plastic PF track, is ridiculously expensive. And having to buy it with the next-to-useless flexible track is adding to the insult. The cost of this track is actually very reasonable, and gets better as the segments get longer. With the new radii curves coming they will definately be on my to buy list. I just hope they leave room to tile the sleepers on the curves, I like it smooth. What I would like to see is the release of a power pickup wheelset, whereby one can power their PF motor of choice from the electrified rails, via either straight to the motor or through a RF receiver. Would definately be more achieveable for ME-Models than to create a whole new train motor.

Well, we did recieve a tram in the public transport set, so another would be unlikely; I'm sure a lot of poeple wouldn't even know what a tram is. For me the only thing I would like to see is more useful parts in AFOL colours like the dark and sand colour varieties. Its the MOCs that can be created from these parts rather than the set it comes from that interests me.

I personally hate trans-light blue as glass. Clear as glass and trans-black as tinted glass makes sense. Blue, however, looks out of place.

Just remember that the 10022 is more expensive than the 10025 on the aftermarket, you really only need the roof parts and trans-clear macaronis, the rest of the parts are fairly common. You can get a 10025 and turn it into a 10022 fairly easily.

Easiest way would be to put the motor in the tender, which would also slow the whole thing down a bit. Otherwise, you could try using the old buffer beams and putting the magnet holder with magnet in upside down.

I really haven't really started building my tabletown yet, the plan is to have the extents of the town at the back of the layout overlooking a railyard and station. The way I see it, while the buildings are nice, they are inanimate. Rather than trying to attach a railyard to my town, I'm adding the town to my railyard. I might sneakily tunnel the track through the buildings at the back to hide it looping back on itself.

Easiest way, just head on over to the inventory page of the set and swap the dark green for lime green (or other).

Type one has the pin that holds the magnet hanging down further than type two. It really doesn't affect it at all, so basically treat them equally.

I think you just answered your own question there. I always run long trains.

Just give it some Shell style tankers instead. Nowhere on the model does it say that it needs to haul containers. It will give your Maersk train more to pull (when it arrives). I also double motor all my locos, it really does wonders, better than the sum of two motors alone. But I think that might be because the brick built bogies do not roll that well, expecially around curves; Instead of having to push that bogie, it is actually helping out.

I admit, I "corrected" my 10030 Star Destroyer's greebling to be more randomised... but I made sure it was symmetrical.

Looks great, kind of needs some shell stickers.

Pretty sure that's just the light of the welder. The light source is in the middle of the two rails, so one is in the blue light, the other is in shadow. I do wonder how the metal will be applied, as I doubt an all metal rail will have much clutching power. The dude welding should have gloves on too.

$290? That's really expensive for what is really a rather underwhelming train. I hope there's a few more bonuses in the box.

There really isn't a cheap way to do these properly. The parts in this set are rare and therefore expensive to buy. You can attempt to modify the design to fit with parts readily available but you will have to accept that it won't look the same. If you are buying the B unit to go with your own SF (well *dur*), the having it taller won't look terribly good. A black roof would also break the continuity.

The little rounded brick on the roof is where the IR receiver goes. It won't be visible from the outside, as the panels that cover the battery box also cover the receiver's side. Those Maersk blue 1×2's will have to go mind you.

Gary didn't quite understand the theory behind carbon trading, but wasted no time on a get-rich-quick scheme.

I was expecting a lack of stock from TRU too, but there were four on the shelf at my local (Knox). There wasn't a sale sticker on it though, might have been the reason.