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Posts posted by nico71

  1. 42093 Model C – Sand Buggy

    An alternate model of the 42093 – Corvette ZR1 as a sand buggy, features steering, fake L3 engine and suspensions, with building instructions.




    Few months ago, I have reviewed the #42093 Corvette ZR1 set, and I though it was a very great set, for display, for beginner or for the parts. Then I wanted to created an alternate model to try to re-use the inventory to create something different with the difficulty and compromise inherent to this process. Here is the result.



    The 42093 set is now a pretty old set, which means that there are many of alternate builds available on Rebrickable. That is why I wanted to create something different in functions, to not only create a steering / fake engine vehicle, but add a nice function which would not have been done before. This function is the suspensions.


    The rear suspension is an oscillating rear axle made with the unique soft-axle in the set. The front suspensions are double wishbones suspensions, with torsion bars. You can see these torsion bars underneath the chassis with perpendicular orange connector and 1/2 pin which create the end stop and the correct angle of rest position. The length of the torsion bar is 11L which ensures a good travel and soft suspension but hard enough to not damage the axle in rest position (the weight is not enough to twist the torsion bar which is an important feature for a playset).


    The other functions are quite classic. The hand of god on the roof operates the steering with a 12t/12t bevel gearing, which operates a fork-lever system connected to the front axle steering. The design key here is that the linkage between the two wheels is an articulated linkage which floats on the fork-lever system. It enables to operate the steering with the suspensions without the need to have ball joints (which are not present in the set). But of course this solution is not suitable for big vehicle because of the play in the mechanism.


    The last functions is the fake L3 engine, which is pretty small comparing to the original V8 of the Corvette ! It uses the same principle but use 1/2 pin instead of 3L axle which gives a smaller construction. The key features is that this engine is mounted on the oscillating axle due to the available room in the creation, but is driven by spur gear on the differential with a 20t gear. This is a pretty unusual solution, not use by Lego, because it needs some play to work (that is why there no bush between the 20t gear and the 2L beam). It allows to have a very compact solution to mount of the axle comparing to a classic bevel construction.


    Functions are important for a playset, but design too ! It has to catch the eyes by the shape, the colour, the details, but also have a  smooth / homogeneous design, and at this scale the design is part of the chassis and functions. Ok, that’s a lot for a 453-parts small set. Therefore, the approach have been to create the chassis and the functions to validate the raw dimensions regarding the size of the wheel and the available space, and then started the design process.



    I have been inspired by SVV vehicle from Segway or other buggy because of the leaning design of the front part, with lifted rear which enables to have a great and recognizable look despite the size of the creation (It would have been difficult for instance to reproduce a other licensed car like a Ferrari). I have tried many variations for the design with frame-looking or more paneled one. But as usual with small creations, this is the parts which mostly guide the design . That is why I use the available mudguards and panels for the bodywork but with some angled builds, like the front shape and the side. Then I have added some details to “polish” the creation, with seats, dashboard, light, exhaust, radiator  but also fill some empty space.  The only improving point for me is that I would have preferred to have more ‘all terrain tires’ to enhance the look of the creations.



    Building Instructions


    As for my previous alternate model, I have created the building instructions. This is a pro-looking 3D-rendering building instructions with step by step partlist, in a same way as the Lego do. You only required the parts of the original #42093 set to build this alternate model.

    You can buy this instructions on my website for 5€.

    Do not hesitate to ask questions and comment :)


  2. Hard to know, I think it is more or less the same torque as it seems to be as easy to stop a M than this pneumatic motor. But the M motor can drop the speed very low before stalling, when the pneumatic engine is very sensitive to low RPM it has no torque at low, and have the maximum torque at maximum speed. With the max speed of about 120rpm, it will give about 1W of power.

  3. Thanks ! If you are talking about this one, unfortunately, I have not tested as I have not.

    What I know if that the engine requires a constant air flow as the air flow affect the force needed to pinch the hose. I have tested with 5 pump and one air tank and it was not enough stable to run smooth (work some rotationa dn stall and did not work). I have only one air tank so I can not test more but I assume a 1L reservoir is a minimum, therefore it could work with any pump but only with a reservoir, and it will work until the bottle is empty, so pump doesn't matter in this condition. A better qpprocha would be considering no lego pump and reservoir like a automotive / small compressor, bike or matress pump with a bit of DIY to connect with the hose (ballon needle is very easy for that).

  4. Steam Bicycle

    A new creation A steam bicycle, powered by a Switchless Lego Pneumatic Engine. Features steering, transmission with a two speeds gearbox, rear brake and working throttle, with building instructions.




    As written before in the article of my Switchless Lego Pneumatic Engine, I wanted to create a pneumatic engine which can run without switch to avoid the hard deadpoint and enables people to build a functional engine without modifying parts. I have created a functional prototype and then I wanted to improve it to install in a creation, here is the result.



    The main difference between classic engines and this one is that I used pinched hose instead of switch. Rather than pinching the hose in the diameter (which require lot of force), I create a loop with the hose, which is tightened more or less with a pusher. The pusher is then connected the the crankshaft to create the distribution on the two chambers of the cylinder. The main advantage is it requires less force to operate the switching of the chambers but need continue air flow. You can watch in detail the principle of functioning of this engine here.


    This single cylinder engine is based on the same principle, but rather than having sliding head-to-head pusher, I use independent pushers which are controlled by roller cam. This solution have the advantage to be more compact, have a better air timing distribution and less friction thanks to the roller. The gearing between the crankshaft and the cam is made with two 40-tooth gears, which enables a fine tuning. Then, the motion of the crankshaft is transmitted to the gearbox with a chain and is operated by the level on the right side thanks to a rotating gear shifter. An additional flywheel on the left side helps to increase inertia to make it run smoothly.


    The bicycle is equipped with a working throttle. To make this function, I have used the same principle as for the valve (tighten loop for pinching hose). Two rubber bands keep the pusher in down position which block the air and a rope is attached to it and to the throttle by passing to a 3mm flexible tube .When the  throttle is rotated, the rope is pulled and the pusher raised, which open the air flow which make run faster the engine. The idle can be control by setting the rest position of the pusher.


    The last function is the foot brake at the right side. This is more a “speed reducer” than a break. It uses a rope attached to the chassis though a rubber band and pass around a pulley on the rear wheel. Then the other extremity is pulled by a lever connected to the pedal. The rubber band enables a return to the rest position with a small tension (if not it goes off the pulley) without too much friction. I would like at the beginning to make a front brake too but it was too complicated as the outer diameter of the wheel is not contact due to the way the spokes are attached.


    The heart of this creation was the engine, but of course I tried to make a decent looking. It comes with colour choice to highlight the engine with black frame, yellow reservoir and red wheels and a “steampunk” looking with the yellow colour and hose. I have also added some details like the package holder, mudguard, horn, gauge, spring loaded saddle, stand etc. At the final, I am very happy with the design and details despite the lack on rubber tires and I think the functions are part of the design this time, with a nice looking sculpture which can run (but of course not drive).


    Performance, Pictures and Video

    The performance are quite good considering the purpose of the engine : to be built with non modified parts at a standard running air pressure (3 bars). It runs fine and can achieve good speed (nothing compare to a modified LPE with thousand RPM) and accept to run low too. But, it has also drawbacks linked to the heart of how it works.

    The first is the hoses used for the 4 loops which make the distribution (4x 9cm lenght) : they have to be soft enough to have an easy pinching and strong enough to handle the pressure. For instance, the last hoses in the 42100 are glossy and hard to pinch, the very old pneumatic hoses from 90’s is too soft for me and do not handle the pressure. The ideal hoses are those which come from the sets from some year like the 8436, or the 8455 (mine comes from this set), you can use also the hose from the 811042043 if they are not the glossy version. You can use other hoses but you will need to increase the pressure if the hose is too hard to pinch and reduce if it is too soft (with of course limits). As I have not tested, I can not certify it will work with every hose.

    The second drawback is that the air flow and air pressure affect the required pinching force and then affect the functioning.  The air flow have to be constant to avoid the problem of running, that is why I do not recommend to use it with Lego pump and/or airtank but rather an other source of air like a compressor / pump with a air reservoir which enables to have a constant air flow. The air pressure is less sensitive but I notice it runs the best with the hose I have between 2.5 to 3.5 bars. Less than this value, the engine has not enough power to run and stop, and with more pressure, the hose do not handle the pressure. 

    I have not seen any wear on the hose, even if they tend to keep the shape of the loop some time after dismantling, they recover their original shape without any leak or damage after some time. But I think it can be damage if they rest for a long time on display with no pressure. So if you display this creation, remove the upper pneumatic T connector assembly to loosen the loop.

     You can see more HD picture on my website and get the building instructions. You can see the list of part here on rebrickable :
    Fell free to comment, ask questions :classic:


  5. Hello everybody, this is my new creations ! Here is the complete story :

    42082 E Model – Offroad Truck With Manipulator Crane

    An alternate model of the #42082 Lego Technic set, featured 4×4 drivetrain with fake engine, steering, lockable leaf suspensions, motorised outriggers, manipulator crane and two ways tipper, with openable elements and building instructions.




    After working two times on the #42082 Lego set (see my C model and D model), I wanted to make a break for other creations, and I did with other instructions including machines. But after some months, I discover a very nice model-C-ish of the 42082 (because of use of parts not in the set) and I found the idea very cool to make a truck. I wanted initially to make an Unimog too but the result will be too close from the “the lego technic channel” one so I changed my plan and searched for an other truck. My ideas was to look for an off-road truck which can be equipped with tools such a manipulator crane or/and a tipper. I found the Gaz Sadko which were per-fect for it with the engine nose and small cabin which looks like powerful, massive and big in scale enough to fit the functions in it.



    My first C model of the 42082 has two motorised functions, my second D model has four, so this one will have more : five, with also many manual functions. Let’s started with manual functions. The first is the steering on the front axle, which is operated by the beacon on the cabin which also makes rotate the steering wheel with gearing. The model is equipped with 4×4 drive-train which drives a V8 fake engine placed under the hood, hood which can be opened, as the doors too. 


    Next function is the lockable leaf spring suspensions : indeed the 42082 set is not equipped with any spring or suspension elements, so I have created with Technic axles which are bent in elastic deformation during suspension travel. To prevent the wear during a long displayed time, I equipped the suspensions with a lockable pinbush in order to lock them on the chassis. Of course the travel is small and the chassis is bent too but it gives a small offroad touch to the assembly.


    Next group of functions is the motorised one. All motorised functions are powered by only one motor put inside the chassis in the middle of rear assembly and distribute the power to 3 gearboxes to motorise each functions. The first group is located at the right and operates the manipulator crane with two linear actuators and a turntable. The second group of gearbox is located on the left and operates the outriggers and the tipper, both with mini linear actuator. The manipulator crane is an inspired and modified smaller version of the 8258 set, with manual extendable boom with fixed hook.


    The tipper is an interesting part, it was the first time I designed a two-sides tipper with articulated dropside. I used for that a simply system with a centered actuator which raises the tipper with rollers, and movable locks for the pivot points of the tipper. Therefore, either the tipper is dumped at the rear by unlock the side lock and lock the rear one, and dump at the side by locking the side lock and unclock the rear one.


    The model is not equipped with a front or boom winch because I ran out of room and gearing to make a proper irreversible gearing. It was also impossible to pass the string inside the turntable because of the gearing for a boom winch. Last things about manual functionality : two pads for the outriggers are located in the right side in a lockable box, and an other compartment can be open at the left to reveal two toolboxes. You can see the internal mechanism exposed here :



    Regarding the design, I am very happy with the result. I think this is as important than the functions, and as the red inventory was limited on this set, I have started to build the manipulator crane and the cabin to validate the design and what were possible to do, then I made the chassis and the functions. I am pretty satisfied with the overall shape of the truck and the homogeneity and powerness of its look. I have tried to make it as powerful as it was possible with iconic elements such the front grill, bumper, mudguard, side ladder and other details (engine, beacon, lights, detailed interior etc.). But I wanted also to keep the roundness of old Russian truck like the Gaz to look less bulky, that is why I have used curved panel on the cabin and the nose, and bionicle tooth to round the different corner (hood and mudguard), and as usual, it is better in Lego to caricaturise a bit more to have a proper look of the model.


    Pictures and Video



    Building Instructions


    Of course as it is an alternate model, I had to make the building instructions, and what an instructions ! 687 pages for 2697 parts, the record of the Kumihimo is beaten ! Therefore this is the biggest instructions I have ever done. As usual, the instructions are step by step high resolution computer generated instructions with partlist in the same way as official Lego one.

    Regarding the bill of material, as an alternate model, if you own the #42082 Lego set, you have all the needed parts. But you can checked the exact bill of material on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want :

    rebrickable_logo.png Want to know if you can build the 42082 Model E – Offroad Truck ? The model has been indexed to rebrickable, check it !

    You can buy the instructions for 15€. You can also buy in a bundle pack including building instructions for my 42082 C model and/or D model and get a discount (15% off for 2 PDF, and 20% off for 3 PDF).

    Buying the instruction


    It has been a long project for me and a big instructions, and people were here because it reached the most popular moc on rebrickable, therefore fell free to comment or ask questions :) 



  6. 9 hours ago, GroundskeeperWillie said:

    Great work! I can hardly imagine the work that must have gone into this marvelous machine.

    The programming mechanism reminds me of this "punch card" programmable crane from the 8888 ideas book, published in 1980:



    Yes it inspires me for the first mechanical machine I have done (such an old creation !)


    I have ever though at the begining of the kumihimo project to put the rack on the tracks and powere direclty the functions with the movement of the rack on pinion (avoid gearbox). I think it will be ever more precise but creating this rack-tracks was not very easy and strong.

    2 hours ago, Jurss said:

    Truly amazing. This could be first instructions I could buy for some MOC. But need to wait for some vacations. 

    Wow, thank you !

  7. 52 minutes ago, aeh5040 said:

    Wow, this is absolutely amazing, congratulations!  I LOVE this kind of machine.  Not really that interested in "wheely" creations :laugh:

    I am not sure I understand how you keep the blue "oscillating fork" in sync over the long term.  Even if each movement gets reversed, if it is controlled just by timing via the orange clutch parts, won't the errors build up over time?  Are the errors just small enough that in practice you can run it for hours without needing to recalibrate?  Or do you have some way of keeping it in sync that I am not seeing?

    Thanks ! As you have understood, the movement between the tracks and the fork are synchronised which enables me to program simple movement run / standby / go back in simple way and with keeping the timing. But as Lego is not perfect, there is play, play that make the fork rotate a bit more or less each movement, especially because the movements are globally made in one direction. that is why I cancel this play by goes back each time I go in a direction. At final, the error is not important, even for long time, as the random play is counterbalancing by many movement and many correction, it is softened which the amount of movement in each direction. Of course it can not run for hours at 100% of reliability, because this is Lego and reels and gravity (with the risk of jamming) but for the testing I have done, it works fine ! You can in any way recalibrate it by stopping the machine (or making between to movement if you are fast enough) and re-align the blue lever.


    22 minutes ago, Jundis said:

    Hats off to you, Nico :-)

    I deal with braiding machines in my job and this really is impressive. Especially as your solution for the discontinuous process done with the tracks and pins like a a punch card in older jacquard machines. Sometimes in the future I will try my best to do a MOC of a braiding machine myself.

    Can you do a Wardwell Braider next? ;-)

    Thank you ! Yes the pin and tracks is inspired of the punch card in old loom, same mechanical principle, as the difference here the tracks and pin operate gearbox, and that on jacquard loom it operates directly the actuators by blocking or not. The wardwell braider looks like a bit more complicated, especially in the construction ! Good luck for your machine :)

  8. After month of works, here is my new creations, you can read the full story below.

    Kumihimo Braiding Machine

    An automated Lego braiding machine, based on traditional Japanese 7 reels Kumihimo braiding to create a braid, with building instructions.




    After discover the traditional Japanese Kumihimo braiding, I wanted to create an automated braiding machine to do it. The basic principle is that you have a disc with many reel holders, and by moving the reel, you create a braid. There are many possible variations about the number of reels and movements that you can do but I have chosen one of the simplest : 7 reels for 8 holder space. The idea is that you have always an empty space, and you move the third reel counter-clockwise to this position, then you rotate the disc to the new empty space and you repeat the sequence.



    Instead of making rotate the whole disc, I have decided to have a fixed disc but with a rotating ring with the hook. The principle of having a hook to catch the reel has been inspired by this video which is an electronic programmed Kumihimo machine made with Meccano. I wanted to add some improvements, for instance, a main winder, a system to control the unwinding of the reel and of course make it mechanically programmed by creating a mechanical “brain”.


    The “brain” of the machine is composed of two tracks with pins on it and output gearboxes powered by a L Motor. Each track operates a gearbox, and each pin on each track enables to control the way of rotation of the functions. This idea has been taken from my previous mechanical loom. I used the new gear shifter, combining with the knob wheel which enabled to create 1/4 turn to control easily the functions, in run / standby / back. You can see the whole mechanism below :


    The first gearbox operates the hook, by moving a rack which is mounted on a small turntable to enable the rotation of the main ring. The hook can be lifted or lowered independently of the position of the main ring.  The hook assembly is built with two diagonal ramps to allow a combination of horizontal and vertical displacements of the hook when the whole assembly is moved. It enables to catch the reel in the centre, and then lift and go away to prevent jamming with the other reels.  A clutch in the drive train enables to come against the end stops and force a little to be sure to be in position.


    The second gearbox is connected to a rotating lever which makes oscillate a fork to make rotate the main ring. The whole assembly of the fork is connected to this ring, enables the positioning around the circle to catch and release the different reels. This part was the most difficult to create, because it had to be very precise in order to move the main ring on the correct position. I have tested many solutions with motor and servo motor, and/or switch and movable end-stop. But each time the result was not enough precise or reliable which make jamming the machine after some time.

    The trick I used is rather simple : I have synchronised the speed of the actuator with the brain’s tracks. In order that during the displacement of 2 links of the tracks, the lever of the oscillating fork make 2 turns.


    This trick was a good start but not enough to have a reliable and repeating position for the long time. In fact due to the play in the gearing and the shifting mechanism (because it is Lego), the shifting moment when the function is operated is not exactly the same each time. That, combining with the fact that the main ring always rotates in the same direction, make the main ring tends to have an increasing rotation shift. I have figure out this problem with the same trick used in many other machine with cancelling the play by going in the opposite direction each time the assembly go in one direction. That is why, you can see on the video that the main ring rotates, stops, and goes backward a little, this is for cancelling the play to have a reliable and precise functioning.

    Last device is the black ring which encircles the reels, as shown in the video, this device has been designed to push down the reels when they unwind naturally because of the main winder. It enables to have a reliable functioning until the reel are empty.


    Even if the machine is big and fully automated, the global speed of braiding is not very fast ! It is explained by the Kumihimo principle which is to move each reel after each other which makes a real rope but takes more time than a classic rope maker. But also because the movements of the machine are rather slow, especially rotating the ring. I have tried to increase the speed but the inertia of the main ring make it rotate too much, that is also why you can see a small friction wheel on the ring.


    The Lego solutions I have chosen are also an answer to the slow speed. As I use gearboxes and tracks, I have to have some time between two movements because of the building with pins and knobs, by passing to a neutral position (I can’t go back and forth without passing through neutral). This point, combining with the back movement to cancel the play make the rotation of the ring the critical slowest movement of the machine. That is why I have reworked many time the tracks-pin-layout to make it running faster by combining the movements when it is possible (start rotating when the hook is lifted, etc.). But I will also test with the new Control+ hub and servo motor in direct drive functions when I have, in order to test the maximum speed with programmable servo motor.

    The result is a real braid that the tightness can be adjusted by replacing the gear ratio in the main winder.

    Pictures and Video


    Building Instructions


    As usual, I have made building instructions, but I had no idea how long and difficult it will be, because of the rendering of the flexible parts and the many sub assembly. Therefore I present you the biggest instructions I have ever done, with 487 pages ! This instructions reach the standard of quality of pro-instructions with detailed step by step assembly with list of parts and important note during the building (you can check the sample below).  I have also made a “how to set up” video for the machine (see at the end of the article).

    You can see the list of parts in pictures from the instructions : 


    But you can also checked it on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want :

    rebrickable_logo.png Want to know if you can build the Kumihimo Braiding Machine ? The model has been indexed to rebrickable, check it !

    You can buy the instructions on my blog for 10€ of on rebrickable.

    sample of the instructions (more sample on my website)


    Video of the set up of the machine on my website

    I hope you like ! This creations required months of work, with serious headache, I am happy to publish it and go back to a more "wheely" creations ! Fell free to comment :)


  9. On 12/21/2019 at 4:41 PM, letsbuild54 said:

    LEGO just tweeted out your Christmas Santa Sleigh. Great work as always.

    I have seen this on facebook too, I give them my permission :)


    On 12/22/2019 at 8:49 PM, Metagross555 said:

    That forwarder is a great redesign, but that color scheme chosen by lego is putrid.

    Thanks ! In deed, it was not easy to deals with the dual green color ! I think it is easy to make an enhanced version in all green (chassis, cabin and hood) and all white arm to have a neater look !

  10. I advise followwing the tutorial for Lcad (3D model) and Lpub3D

    Then If you have problem on lpub (maybe you will have), you can ask questions (and read before) topics on ldraw communities

    It is some hours to take to have a skill but it worth it ! I try to enhance the quality of my instructions each time and re-use previous content to increase the quality.


  11. New creation ! 


    A Lego Technic Forwarder based on the inventory of the 42080 harvester, featured articulated steering with steerable rear axle, pneumatic arms with motorised compressor, manual grabber, rotating cabin and opening doors and hood, with building instructions.



    After releasing my 42080 Model D, and after its great success, I wanted to create something different, that is why I have created the Citroen Mehari and Balance Clock. After that, I wanted to create a new model C, because of the challenge. I have searched a set which was recent and had not so many model C, and find the #42080 – Forest Harvester which was perfect : It has an interesting inventory despite the colourful design, and great possibilities with the tires and new pneumatic parts (plus zero model C at this time). I have searched many days for original ideas with this colour scheme and functions and had trouble to find other idea than forest machines, but when I saw the official Log Loader model B of the 42080, it was an evidence : I wanted to create a better forwarder with better design and functions. Here is the result.



    The model is packed with many functions. First are the suspensions. Each axle has longitudinal pendular suspensions, plus an articulated roll center suspension. It enables to have certain capabilities on rough surface, even if the center articulation tends to make the rear section unstable (because no end stop).


    The second function is the articulated steering. It is composed of an articulated steering operated by the hand of god in the centre (which is not really easily reachable).  It also operates the rear axle which is mounted on a small turntable thanks to a linkage mechanism connected to a connecting rod and lever to the hand of god. The combination of rotating the hand of god and moving the main articulation make the connecting rod move and steer the rear axle. You can see this mechanism underneath and how it works on the video.


    The next functions are pneumatic functions. First the model is equipped with motorised compressor, with the battery box located underneath the cabin and the compressor inside the engine bay under the hood. The main hose comes to the two switches on the rear side, each operates one cylinder. The first cylinder operated the main arm elevation, and the second the second section of the arm. On the first cylinder, you can note the base of the pneumatic cylinder is attached to the chassis and not mounted on the turntable. It enables me to make a compact building despite the length of the cylinder and as it is located in the center of the turntable, it can rotate. Therefore, this is the pneumatic rod which rotates inside the cylinder when operating the turntable. Lastly, the second part of the arm is equipped with a linkage mechanism which gives a high range of angular movement, enabling to have a good working area (not like the official B model and its simple arm).


    On the extremity of the arm, there is a manually operated grabber, thanks to a knob knob mechanism on a friction pin, and equipped with rubber claws. As I had not enough gearing with standard Lego unit building (like 16t/16t), I have used two 20 teeth gears with a half stud assembly for the grabber. To finish, you can note that the cabin can be rotated in order that the operator is in front of the working area. It makes the cabin easy removable because only attached to a pin but add a nice value. 


    The model is packed with nice details, such as the cabin interior, opening doors and hood, lights, and some displayed tools. But the interesting part was the compromise on the design. The model was based on a John Deere Forwarder for the main proportion and colour. but use the part of only one Lego set. The main problem was the lack of parts in only one colour, like the green or the white. The white for instance determined the way the arm was built and its length. The green for instance determined the possibilities of building for the chassis, hood and cabin. The idea was to build and place the colour in order the model looks green even if it is not totally green. Of course the fact there are two green (regular and lime) is a big limitation. 


    Even with that, I am very satisfied of the design and the functions. This is a recognisable forest machine, with non-bulky and colourful design and nice functions. The steering is not very easy reachable and the cabin can be removed easily, but the model is really playable and built only with one single official set which makes the building interesting. The model can be also enhanced by replacing the lime green by regular green, change black parts on the arm by white one,  and add a turntable underneath the cabin to secure it.

    Pictures and Video

    More picture at

    Building Instructions


    Making a model C without building instructions is a non-sense for me. So I have made building instructions ! This is a 187 pages step by step PDF instructions generated by computer, including the list of parts at each step in Lego style instructions. Regarding the quality, I have enhanced again, with a new presentation and background, white edge on black parts, and better pneumatic hose representation and placement. You can see the list of parts in pictures from the instructions : 

    42080_model_D_instructions_preview_10 42080_model_D_instructions_preview_11 42080_model_D_instructions_preview_12

    But you can also checked it on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want :

    rebrickable_logo.png Want to know if you can build the 42080 Model C Forwarder ? The 42080 Model C has been indexed to rebrickable, check it !

    You can buy the instructions for 10€ on my blog :

    42080_model_D_instructions_preview_1 42080_model_D_instructions_preview_2 42080_model_D_instructions_preview_3 42080_model_D_instructions_preview_4 42080_model_D_instructions_preview_5  42080_model_D_instructions_preview_7
    42080_model_D_instructions_preview_8 42080_model_D_instructions_preview_9
    (I have put the image in the post in low resolution for people seen this post on email).
    Do you like it ? Do you have any questions ? Fell free to comment :)

  12. I have asked the french help from youtube. Here is the official answer from them

    In french (if I do not translate well)


    Tu dois cocher l'option "made for kids" si seulement si ton contenu est exclusivement destiné aux enfants. 




    You have to choose "made for kids" only if your content is exclusively intended for kids.

    So it answers the question about how to choose.

    But of course they did not answer to que question about the bot who decide if it is for kids or not, and the consequence of choosing the bad choice.

    I assume in any case there will be a lot of modifications and adjustement so no fear for me.


  13. Just read the updated help on this


    "But in most cases, we’ll rely on your audience setting to determine whether a video is made for kids."

    Just wait for news from google and ftc. I do not think the AFOL content on youtube will diseapear in youtube kids.

    The toy is even not in the list of the FTC




    The Rule sets out additional factors the FTC will consider in determining whether your content is child-directed:

    • the subject matter,
    • visual content,
    • the use of animated characters or child-oriented activities and incentives,
    • the kind of music or other audio content,
    • the age of models,
    • the presence of child celebrities or celebrities who appeal to children,
    • language or other characteristics of the site,
    • whether advertising that promotes or appears on the site is directed to children, and
    • competent and reliable empirical evidence about the age of the audience.



    I personnaly made my video for teenager and adult and set to "not directed to child" and wait for news if I have to change. I do not say that the youtube bot will not decide for us but certainly not get a fine for this. As it is written




    If you've already set your audience for your video and YouTube detects error or abuse, you will see your video marked as “Made for kids - Set by YouTube". You won't be able to change your audience setting. If you disagree, you can use the "Send Feedback" button.

    1. On a computer, go to
    2. Go to Videos.
    3. Click the video you’d like to send feedback on.
    4. Click Send feedback.



    If youtube choose to put you on youtube kids, you can not change it, juste use the "send feedback" button, which is obviously useless.

    PS : always wait for youtube news and expert opinions, before taking action. I have seen a lot of video of closing channel in youtube and this is too bad (I have learn that from 12 years on youtube and many similar law over the years).

  14. New creation ! 

    Balance Clock With Remontoire

    A lego Technic Balance Clock with Korfhage differential powered remontoire, with building instructions.



    After building many clocks, I wanted to make a simple, reliable and with big autonomy clock, that is why I built the Galileo Clock. But after some years, I wanted to build a new clock, not simple and with a big autonomy, but with an interesting escapement and weight system. After some researches, and building many prototypes, here is the final result.


    How does it work

    I wanted from beginning to not use regular pendulum in order to display easily on a desk. I started study the flying pendulum clock but it was to hard to have a correct time keeping with only Lego (maybe for a next clock). Therefore I moved to a classic balance arm on a knife edge suspension (same as on my Galileo clock) with anchor escapement. As I wanted to keep simple the set up of the clock, I only made one setting per pallet, which is simpler than my Galileo clock but less efficient (and took many time to develop).


    The other interesting system is weight system. I wanted first to use pullback motor, but despite the fact I have found a way to wind it without stopping the clock, the provided torque was so inconstant that the clock did not work properly. That is why I wanted after to use the battery box as the weight, I have put it on a rotary arm as the clock has to run on a desk (not room underneath). After some researches, I came to the differential idea to make the remontoire which has been patented by Edward Korfhage in 1952. You can see the principle in this gif :


    Therefore, the weight (which is the battery box) is attached to the cage of the differential and give the main movement. Then, a planetary is connected to the clock drivetrain and the other planetary to the remontoire drivetrain. As the drivetrain is connected to the M-Motor with a worm gear, it is standstill. Therefore the torque is given to the clock when the weight fall.


    The remontoire is operated by a switch mounted on the battery box. A lever is connected to the switch, and when the battery box falls, the lever gets in contact with a white end stop which activates the switch. The motor is then powered and the differential rotated in order to lift the battery box. The stop of this movement is made by an other white end stop which put the switch to its neutral position.


    Talking with performance, there are good, but not very good.  The remontoire is operated every 5 minutes which may seem low but the angular displacement of the weight is also low comparing to a classic weight and drum system (with meters of rope).  I have used the highest gear ratio I can for having the maximum autonomy and enough torque to operate the escapement. The ratio between the escapement wheel and the minute hand is 5:1 x 5:1 x 5:1 x 3:1 = 375:1. The escapement wheel has 8 teeth, and the tic-tac duration is 1.2sec, therefore for each second which passes, the minute hand moves about : 1 / ( 375 * 8 teeth * 1.2 sec) = 1 : 3600 which is correct. The two wheels on the extremities on the balance arm can be moved to find the correct time of tic-tac. Of course the ratio between minute hand and hours hand is 1:12 made with 12:24 x 12:24 x 8:24 = 12:1 


    As I mentioned before, the pallet of the escapement has only one setting by pallet which is easy to setting, but of course not so efficient as a Galileo Escapement. Combining with the fact that the clock tends to speed up a little when the remontoire is powered, give a global accuracy in time keeping of about  1-5 minutes / 24h. I think the clock will run out battery before having many minutes of difference in some day.

    Pictures and video

    See the article on my blog to find more pictures.

    Building Instructions


    I know that people like building instructions, and I know they like even more for the clock as there are not lot of them, that is why I have created building instructions ! The building instructions are composed of 228 pages, step by step computer rendering pages which look like official Lego one, at the price of 7.5€. The instructions also provided the standard setting dimensions for the escapement and you will find a video at the end of the article to know how to set up your clock. Here is the complete bill of material in picture file :


    But you can also checked it on rebrickable and export in whatever format you want :

    rebrickable_logo.png Want to know if you can build the Balance Clock ? The Balance clock has been indexed to rebrickable, check it !

    You can see examples of the instructions on my blog.

    FI hope you like, fell free to comment, ask questions :)

  15. I have a small question to the specialist of clock.

    I am building a clock which is a bit special and can not figure out to find a name !

    You can see it in functioning here


    The pendulum is a horizontal pendulum compared to the classic vertical one (but not sure of this name because I did not find anything with horizontal pendulum). And the energy of the clock is given from a weight (battery box) which is fixed to an arm which can rotate from the up to the down (you can see the center of rotation with the 40t in the back and the two 5x7 frame) and gives energy to the anchor escapement. When it is down, a motor automatically lift it to the upper position.

    So, how do you call this kind of clock ?


  16. New creation : 

    A reproduction of Citroën Mehari in 1/15 Scale, featured independent suspensions, steering, working doors, tailgate, bonnet and removal hood, with building instructions.




    After my Mini Citroën 2CV in Lego, many people asked me to build other Citroën models, for instance DS, BX, SM but also (and mostly) Mehari. After some months, a fan asked me by email to design him a Mehari version of the Big 2CV I designed year before, which convicted me to work on the Citroën Mehari version and make building instructions in order he can rebuild it. I have chosen to not go for a big scale because of the amount of needed parts and because I wanted to build in different colours. That is why I have chosen a small 1/15 scale for these Mehari.



    The functions are rather basic in this scale, but are mainly focused on playability. As on my previous Mini 2CV, the Mehari version is equipped with independent suspensions with metal springs located in the floor. It enables to have the same bouncing suspensions as real. The steering wheel is connected to the steering using U-joins and operated the steering by a lever plus a link 6L. An other link 9L connect the two wheels.


    The next functions are more about design functions. In deed, the doors and the bonnet can be opened to reveal a detailed engine (but not working), which can be removed easily to see how the steering and suspensions work. The rear is equipped with a spare tire accessible by the rear tailgate which can be opened too. To finish the upper hood can be remove easily with centring pins on the middle near the pillar and axles at the rear, in order to have a better playability or realistic look.



    The design was the most difficult part here. The mini scale has the advantage to enable less details for the users, but need to have iconic details and good proportions in order that people forgive the approximation but recognise easily the model. I have started to work on the side of the car, trying to reproduce the shape of the rear wheel arch. I also wanted to build something sturdy and with cheap parts, that is why I have chosen a combination of a panel, beam and tiles. The other difficult part which has reduced the available colour for this project were the doors. I wanted to reproduce the shape of the doors and the difference of height between the doors and the bonnet which are iconic. I managed by using Bionicle tooth and a beam positioned with an angle. It doesn’t fit perfectly the original shape but it enables to have a sturdy design and smooth side.


    The other difficult part was the fact that the rear wheels are covered by the mudguard and go in the bodywork, as on the 2CV. I was easy to do on the 2Cv because the trunk was closed and not visible, therefore I could hide the wheels inside the wheel arch on the each side (which reduced the room in the trunk). But here I could not make the same because it would have reduced the size of the rear trunk and would not fit the proportions. that is why I searched a way to have a thinner box as possible, by using plate and tile placed by half pin.


    I finished the design by making the interior and the bonnet which was easy to do with the connectors and beams. The front is rather simple also except the lights which use 1/2 gap technique to fit correctly the lights and corner lights around the front grill and the bonnet. The only regret I have is to not be abbe to put end stops on the suspension and steering in order that the wheels do not touch the body when you turn and press entirely the suspensions. It was too hard to fit at this scale without reducing too much the travel of suspensions.

    Pictures and video


    Building Instructions

    An important point of this project was to create building instructions. That is why I focused myself to use available and cheap parts and find 3 possible versions without major changes in design : red, white and orange. You can see below the three versions with :

    • A link to Rebrickable inventory
    • A link to bill of material as image

    Red Version


    rebrickable_logo.png Want to know if you can build the red version of the Citroën Mehari ? Click here.

    Bill of material in picture file (red version)


    White Versionlego-mehari-3

    rebrickable_logo.png Want to know if you can build the white version of the Citroën Mehari ? Click here.

    Bill of material in picture file (white version)


    Orange Versionlego-mehari-1

    rebrickable_logo.png Want to know if you can build the orange version of the Citroën Mehari ? Click here.

    Bill of material in picture file (orange version)

    You can see example of the building instructions and buy it for 7.5€ on my website.


    I hope you enjoy, feel free to comment or ask questions :)