nico71

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About nico71

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  1. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    42093 Model C – Sand Buggy An alternate model of the 42093 – Corvette ZR1 as a sand buggy, features steering, fake L3 engine and suspensions, with building instructions. Context Few months ago, I have reviewed the #42093 Corvette ZR1 set, and I though it was a very great set, for display, for beginner or for the parts. Then I wanted to created an alternate model to try to re-use the inventory to create something different with the difficulty and compromise inherent to this process. Here is the result. Functions The 42093 set is now a pretty old set, which means that there are many of alternate builds available on Rebrickable. That is why I wanted to create something different in functions, to not only create a steering / fake engine vehicle, but add a nice function which would not have been done before. This function is the suspensions. The rear suspension is an oscillating rear axle made with the unique soft-axle in the set. The front suspensions are double wishbones suspensions, with torsion bars. You can see these torsion bars underneath the chassis with perpendicular orange connector and 1/2 pin which create the end stop and the correct angle of rest position. The length of the torsion bar is 11L which ensures a good travel and soft suspension but hard enough to not damage the axle in rest position (the weight is not enough to twist the torsion bar which is an important feature for a playset). The other functions are quite classic. The hand of god on the roof operates the steering with a 12t/12t bevel gearing, which operates a fork-lever system connected to the front axle steering. The design key here is that the linkage between the two wheels is an articulated linkage which floats on the fork-lever system. It enables to operate the steering with the suspensions without the need to have ball joints (which are not present in the set). But of course this solution is not suitable for big vehicle because of the play in the mechanism. The last functions is the fake L3 engine, which is pretty small comparing to the original V8 of the Corvette ! It uses the same principle but use 1/2 pin instead of 3L axle which gives a smaller construction. The key features is that this engine is mounted on the oscillating axle due to the available room in the creation, but is driven by spur gear on the differential with a 20t gear. This is a pretty unusual solution, not use by Lego, because it needs some play to work (that is why there no bush between the 20t gear and the 2L beam). It allows to have a very compact solution to mount of the axle comparing to a classic bevel construction. Design Functions are important for a playset, but design too ! It has to catch the eyes by the shape, the colour, the details, but also have a smooth / homogeneous design, and at this scale the design is part of the chassis and functions. Ok, that’s a lot for a 453-parts small set. Therefore, the approach have been to create the chassis and the functions to validate the raw dimensions regarding the size of the wheel and the available space, and then started the design process. I have been inspired by SVV vehicle from Segway or other buggy because of the leaning design of the front part, with lifted rear which enables to have a great and recognizable look despite the size of the creation (It would have been difficult for instance to reproduce a other licensed car like a Ferrari). I have tried many variations for the design with frame-looking or more paneled one. But as usual with small creations, this is the parts which mostly guide the design . That is why I use the available mudguards and panels for the bodywork but with some angled builds, like the front shape and the side. Then I have added some details to “polish” the creation, with seats, dashboard, light, exhaust, radiator but also fill some empty space. The only improving point for me is that I would have preferred to have more ‘all terrain tires’ to enhance the look of the creations. Video Building Instructions As for my previous alternate model, I have created the building instructions. This is a pro-looking 3D-rendering building instructions with step by step partlist, in a same way as the Lego do. You only required the parts of the original #42093 set to build this alternate model. You can buy this instructions on my website for 5€. Do not hesitate to ask questions and comment :)
  2. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Hard to know, I think it is more or less the same torque as it seems to be as easy to stop a M than this pneumatic motor. But the M motor can drop the speed very low before stalling, when the pneumatic engine is very sensitive to low RPM it has no torque at low, and have the maximum torque at maximum speed. With the max speed of about 120rpm, it will give about 1W of power.
  3. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thanks ! If you are talking about this one, unfortunately, I have not tested as I have not. What I know if that the engine requires a constant air flow as the air flow affect the force needed to pinch the hose. I have tested with 5 pump and one air tank and it was not enough stable to run smooth (work some rotationa dn stall and did not work). I have only one air tank so I can not test more but I assume a 1L reservoir is a minimum, therefore it could work with any pump but only with a reservoir, and it will work until the bottle is empty, so pump doesn't matter in this condition. A better qpprocha would be considering no lego pump and reservoir like a automotive / small compressor, bike or matress pump with a bit of DIY to connect with the hose (ballon needle is very easy for that).
  4. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Steam Bicycle A new creation : A steam bicycle, powered by a Switchless Lego Pneumatic Engine. Features steering, transmission with a two speeds gearbox, rear brake and working throttle, with building instructions. Context As written before in the article of my Switchless Lego Pneumatic Engine, I wanted to create a pneumatic engine which can run without switch to avoid the hard deadpoint and enables people to build a functional engine without modifying parts. I have created a functional prototype and then I wanted to improve it to install in a creation, here is the result. Functions The main difference between classic engines and this one is that I used pinched hose instead of switch. Rather than pinching the hose in the diameter (which require lot of force), I create a loop with the hose, which is tightened more or less with a pusher. The pusher is then connected the the crankshaft to create the distribution on the two chambers of the cylinder. The main advantage is it requires less force to operate the switching of the chambers but need continue air flow. You can watch in detail the principle of functioning of this engine here. This single cylinder engine is based on the same principle, but rather than having sliding head-to-head pusher, I use independent pushers which are controlled by roller cam. This solution have the advantage to be more compact, have a better air timing distribution and less friction thanks to the roller. The gearing between the crankshaft and the cam is made with two 40-tooth gears, which enables a fine tuning. Then, the motion of the crankshaft is transmitted to the gearbox with a chain and is operated by the level on the right side thanks to a rotating gear shifter. An additional flywheel on the left side helps to increase inertia to make it run smoothly. The bicycle is equipped with a working throttle. To make this function, I have used the same principle as for the valve (tighten loop for pinching hose). Two rubber bands keep the pusher in down position which block the air and a rope is attached to it and to the throttle by passing to a 3mm flexible tube .When the throttle is rotated, the rope is pulled and the pusher raised, which open the air flow which make run faster the engine. The idle can be control by setting the rest position of the pusher. The last function is the foot brake at the right side. This is more a “speed reducer” than a break. It uses a rope attached to the chassis though a rubber band and pass around a pulley on the rear wheel. Then the other extremity is pulled by a lever connected to the pedal. The rubber band enables a return to the rest position with a small tension (if not it goes off the pulley) without too much friction. I would like at the beginning to make a front brake too but it was too complicated as the outer diameter of the wheel is not contact due to the way the spokes are attached. Design The heart of this creation was the engine, but of course I tried to make a decent looking. It comes with colour choice to highlight the engine with black frame, yellow reservoir and red wheels and a “steampunk” looking with the yellow colour and hose. I have also added some details like the package holder, mudguard, horn, gauge, spring loaded saddle, stand etc. At the final, I am very happy with the design and details despite the lack on rubber tires and I think the functions are part of the design this time, with a nice looking sculpture which can run (but of course not drive). Performance, Pictures and Video The performance are quite good considering the purpose of the engine : to be built with non modified parts at a standard running air pressure (3 bars). It runs fine and can achieve good speed (nothing compare to a modified LPE with thousand RPM) and accept to run low too. But, it has also drawbacks linked to the heart of how it works. The first is the hoses used for the 4 loops which make the distribution (4x 9cm lenght) : they have to be soft enough to have an easy pinching and strong enough to handle the pressure. For instance, the last hoses in the 42100 are glossy and hard to pinch, the very old pneumatic hoses from 90’s is too soft for me and do not handle the pressure. The ideal hoses are those which come from the sets from some year like the 8436, or the 8455 (mine comes from this set), you can use also the hose from the 8110, 42043 if they are not the glossy version. You can use other hoses but you will need to increase the pressure if the hose is too hard to pinch and reduce if it is too soft (with of course limits). As I have not tested, I can not certify it will work with every hose. The second drawback is that the air flow and air pressure affect the required pinching force and then affect the functioning. The air flow have to be constant to avoid the problem of running, that is why I do not recommend to use it with Lego pump and/or airtank but rather an other source of air like a compressor / pump with a air reservoir which enables to have a constant air flow. The air pressure is less sensitive but I notice it runs the best with the hose I have between 2.5 to 3.5 bars. Less than this value, the engine has not enough power to run and stop, and with more pressure, the hose do not handle the pressure. I have not seen any wear on the hose, even if they tend to keep the shape of the loop some time after dismantling, they recover their original shape without any leak or damage after some time. But I think it can be damage if they rest for a long time on display with no pressure. So if you display this creation, remove the upper pneumatic T connector assembly to loosen the loop. You can see more HD picture on my website and get the building instructions. You can see the list of part here on rebrickable : https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-48400/Nico71/steam-bicycle-lpe/ Fell free to comment, ask questions
  5. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    For now, I will take a break after 3 models on the 42082, but I am plan to do other C model for other set, which will be in construction field :)
  6. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thanks for the comment, I am glad that you appreciate my work !
  7. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thanks ! Especially the part of the original lego build, I have tried to make the functions and the design as best as possible with sturdy design but also a quality instructions.
  8. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thanks Jim ! Yes I will take into consideration uplaoding 1024px wide for EB.
  9. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thanks to all :)
  10. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Hello everybody, this is my new creations ! Here is the complete story : 42082 E Model – Offroad Truck With Manipulator Crane An alternate model of the #42082 Lego Technic set, featured 4×4 drivetrain with fake engine, steering, lockable leaf suspensions, motorised outriggers, manipulator crane and two ways tipper, with openable elements and building instructions. Context After working two times on the #42082 Lego set (see my C model and D model), I wanted to make a break for other creations, and I did with other instructions including machines. But after some months, I discover a very nice model-C-ish of the 42082 (because of use of parts not in the set) and I found the idea very cool to make a truck. I wanted initially to make an Unimog too but the result will be too close from the “the lego technic channel” one so I changed my plan and searched for an other truck. My ideas was to look for an off-road truck which can be equipped with tools such a manipulator crane or/and a tipper. I found the Gaz Sadko which were per-fect for it with the engine nose and small cabin which looks like powerful, massive and big in scale enough to fit the functions in it. Functions My first C model of the 42082 has two motorised functions, my second D model has four, so this one will have more : five, with also many manual functions. Let’s started with manual functions. The first is the steering on the front axle, which is operated by the beacon on the cabin which also makes rotate the steering wheel with gearing. The model is equipped with 4×4 drive-train which drives a V8 fake engine placed under the hood, hood which can be opened, as the doors too. Next function is the lockable leaf spring suspensions : indeed the 42082 set is not equipped with any spring or suspension elements, so I have created with Technic axles which are bent in elastic deformation during suspension travel. To prevent the wear during a long displayed time, I equipped the suspensions with a lockable pinbush in order to lock them on the chassis. Of course the travel is small and the chassis is bent too but it gives a small offroad touch to the assembly. Next group of functions is the motorised one. All motorised functions are powered by only one motor put inside the chassis in the middle of rear assembly and distribute the power to 3 gearboxes to motorise each functions. The first group is located at the right and operates the manipulator crane with two linear actuators and a turntable. The second group of gearbox is located on the left and operates the outriggers and the tipper, both with mini linear actuator. The manipulator crane is an inspired and modified smaller version of the 8258 set, with manual extendable boom with fixed hook. The tipper is an interesting part, it was the first time I designed a two-sides tipper with articulated dropside. I used for that a simply system with a centered actuator which raises the tipper with rollers, and movable locks for the pivot points of the tipper. Therefore, either the tipper is dumped at the rear by unlock the side lock and lock the rear one, and dump at the side by locking the side lock and unclock the rear one. The model is not equipped with a front or boom winch because I ran out of room and gearing to make a proper irreversible gearing. It was also impossible to pass the string inside the turntable because of the gearing for a boom winch. Last things about manual functionality : two pads for the outriggers are located in the right side in a lockable box, and an other compartment can be open at the left to reveal two toolboxes. You can see the internal mechanism exposed here : Design Regarding the design, I am very happy with the result. I think this is as important than the functions, and as the red inventory was limited on this set, I have started to build the manipulator crane and the cabin to validate the design and what were possible to do, then I made the chassis and the functions. I am pretty satisfied with the overall shape of the truck and the homogeneity and powerness of its look. I have tried to make it as powerful as it was possible with iconic elements such the front grill, bumper, mudguard, side ladder and other details (engine, beacon, lights, detailed interior etc.). But I wanted also to keep the roundness of old Russian truck like the Gaz to look less bulky, that is why I have used curved panel on the cabin and the nose, and bionicle tooth to round the different corner (hood and mudguard), and as usual, it is better in Lego to caricaturise a bit more to have a proper look of the model. Pictures and Video Gallery at : https://www.nico71.fr/42082-e-model-offroad-truck-with-manipulator-crane/ Building Instructions Of course as it is an alternate model, I had to make the building instructions, and what an instructions ! 687 pages for 2697 parts, the record of the Kumihimo is beaten ! Therefore this is the biggest instructions I have ever done. As usual, the instructions are step by step high resolution computer generated instructions with partlist in the same way as official Lego one. Regarding the bill of material, as an alternate model, if you own the #42082 Lego set, you have all the needed parts. But you can checked the exact bill of material on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want : Want to know if you can build the 42082 Model E – Offroad Truck ? The model has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! You can buy the instructions for 15€. You can also buy in a bundle pack including building instructions for my 42082 C model and/or D model and get a discount (15% off for 2 PDF, and 20% off for 3 PDF). Buying the instruction : https://www.nico71.fr/42082-e-model-offroad-truck-with-manipulator-crane/ --------------------------------------------------------- It has been a long project for me and a big instructions, and people were here because it reached the most popular moc on rebrickable, therefore fell free to comment or ask questions :)
  11. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Yes it inspires me for the first mechanical machine I have done : https://www.nico71.fr/mechanical-calculator/ (such an old creation !) I have ever though at the begining of the kumihimo project to put the rack on the tracks and powere direclty the functions with the movement of the rack on pinion (avoid gearbox). I think it will be ever more precise but creating this rack-tracks was not very easy and strong. Wow, thank you !
  12. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thanks ! As you have understood, the movement between the tracks and the fork are synchronised which enables me to program simple movement run / standby / go back in simple way and with keeping the timing. But as Lego is not perfect, there is play, play that make the fork rotate a bit more or less each movement, especially because the movements are globally made in one direction. that is why I cancel this play by goes back each time I go in a direction. At final, the error is not important, even for long time, as the random play is counterbalancing by many movement and many correction, it is softened which the amount of movement in each direction. Of course it can not run for hours at 100% of reliability, because this is Lego and reels and gravity (with the risk of jamming) but for the testing I have done, it works fine ! You can in any way recalibrate it by stopping the machine (or making between to movement if you are fast enough) and re-align the blue lever. Thank you ! Yes the pin and tracks is inspired of the punch card in old loom, same mechanical principle, as the difference here the tracks and pin operate gearbox, and that on jacquard loom it operates directly the actuators by blocking or not. The wardwell braider looks like a bit more complicated, especially in the construction ! Good luck for your machine :)
  13. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    After month of works, here is my new creations, you can read the full story below. Kumihimo Braiding Machine An automated Lego braiding machine, based on traditional Japanese 7 reels Kumihimo braiding to create a braid, with building instructions. Context After discover the traditional Japanese Kumihimo braiding, I wanted to create an automated braiding machine to do it. The basic principle is that you have a disc with many reel holders, and by moving the reel, you create a braid. There are many possible variations about the number of reels and movements that you can do but I have chosen one of the simplest : 7 reels for 8 holder space. The idea is that you have always an empty space, and you move the third reel counter-clockwise to this position, then you rotate the disc to the new empty space and you repeat the sequence. Functions Instead of making rotate the whole disc, I have decided to have a fixed disc but with a rotating ring with the hook. The principle of having a hook to catch the reel has been inspired by this video which is an electronic programmed Kumihimo machine made with Meccano. I wanted to add some improvements, for instance, a main winder, a system to control the unwinding of the reel and of course make it mechanically programmed by creating a mechanical “brain”. The “brain” of the machine is composed of two tracks with pins on it and output gearboxes powered by a L Motor. Each track operates a gearbox, and each pin on each track enables to control the way of rotation of the functions. This idea has been taken from my previous mechanical loom. I used the new gear shifter, combining with the knob wheel which enabled to create 1/4 turn to control easily the functions, in run / standby / back. You can see the whole mechanism below : The first gearbox operates the hook, by moving a rack which is mounted on a small turntable to enable the rotation of the main ring. The hook can be lifted or lowered independently of the position of the main ring. The hook assembly is built with two diagonal ramps to allow a combination of horizontal and vertical displacements of the hook when the whole assembly is moved. It enables to catch the reel in the centre, and then lift and go away to prevent jamming with the other reels. A clutch in the drive train enables to come against the end stops and force a little to be sure to be in position. The second gearbox is connected to a rotating lever which makes oscillate a fork to make rotate the main ring. The whole assembly of the fork is connected to this ring, enables the positioning around the circle to catch and release the different reels. This part was the most difficult to create, because it had to be very precise in order to move the main ring on the correct position. I have tested many solutions with motor and servo motor, and/or switch and movable end-stop. But each time the result was not enough precise or reliable which make jamming the machine after some time. The trick I used is rather simple : I have synchronised the speed of the actuator with the brain’s tracks. In order that during the displacement of 2 links of the tracks, the lever of the oscillating fork make 2 turns. This trick was a good start but not enough to have a reliable and repeating position for the long time. In fact due to the play in the gearing and the shifting mechanism (because it is Lego), the shifting moment when the function is operated is not exactly the same each time. That, combining with the fact that the main ring always rotates in the same direction, make the main ring tends to have an increasing rotation shift. I have figure out this problem with the same trick used in many other machine with cancelling the play by going in the opposite direction each time the assembly go in one direction. That is why, you can see on the video that the main ring rotates, stops, and goes backward a little, this is for cancelling the play to have a reliable and precise functioning. Last device is the black ring which encircles the reels, as shown in the video, this device has been designed to push down the reels when they unwind naturally because of the main winder. It enables to have a reliable functioning until the reel are empty. Performance Even if the machine is big and fully automated, the global speed of braiding is not very fast ! It is explained by the Kumihimo principle which is to move each reel after each other which makes a real rope but takes more time than a classic rope maker. But also because the movements of the machine are rather slow, especially rotating the ring. I have tried to increase the speed but the inertia of the main ring make it rotate too much, that is also why you can see a small friction wheel on the ring. The Lego solutions I have chosen are also an answer to the slow speed. As I use gearboxes and tracks, I have to have some time between two movements because of the building with pins and knobs, by passing to a neutral position (I can’t go back and forth without passing through neutral). This point, combining with the back movement to cancel the play make the rotation of the ring the critical slowest movement of the machine. That is why I have reworked many time the tracks-pin-layout to make it running faster by combining the movements when it is possible (start rotating when the hook is lifted, etc.). But I will also test with the new Control+ hub and servo motor in direct drive functions when I have, in order to test the maximum speed with programmable servo motor. The result is a real braid that the tightness can be adjusted by replacing the gear ratio in the main winder. Pictures and Video Complete gallerie : https://www.nico71.fr/kumihimo-braiding-machine/ Building Instructions As usual, I have made building instructions, but I had no idea how long and difficult it will be, because of the rendering of the flexible parts and the many sub assembly. Therefore I present you the biggest instructions I have ever done, with 487 pages ! This instructions reach the standard of quality of pro-instructions with detailed step by step assembly with list of parts and important note during the building (you can check the sample below). I have also made a “how to set up” video for the machine (see at the end of the article). You can see the list of parts in pictures from the instructions : But you can also checked it on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want : Want to know if you can build the Kumihimo Braiding Machine ? The model has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! You can buy the instructions on my blog for 10€ of on rebrickable. sample of the instructions (more sample on my website) : Video of the set up of the machine on my website : https://www.nico71.fr/kumihimo-braiding-machine/ I hope you like ! This creations required months of work, with serious headache, I am happy to publish it and go back to a more "wheely" creations ! Fell free to comment :)
  14. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    I have seen this on facebook too, I give them my permission :) Thanks ! In deed, it was not easy to deals with the dual green color ! I think it is easy to make an enhanced version in all green (chassis, cabin and hood) and all white arm to have a neater look !
  15. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    I advise followwing the tutorial for Lcad (3D model) and Lpub3D : http://www.melkert.net/LDCad https://sites.google.com/view/workingwithlpub3d/ Then If you have problem on lpub (maybe you will have), you can ask questions (and read before) topics on ldraw communities : https://forums.ldraw.org/forum-22.html It is some hours to take to have a skill but it worth it ! I try to enhance the quality of my instructions each time and re-use previous content to increase the quality.