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About nico71

  • Birthday 12/07/1988

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  1. Phondly sent to me two EnBo PU battery packs for testing. Here is my review : (subtiles available if you do not understand my frenchy accent 🤓) Spoiler : definitively a good upcoming product !
  2. Thanks ! The front part was a difficult part, especially the front light which is iconic. I am less satisfied with the rear one but it is a compromise.
  3. Peugeot 205 GTI A Peugeot 205 GTI made out Lego Technic, featured suspensions, steering with hand of god, opening doors, trunk and hood, with detailed engine, interior and custom stickers. Available in three colors (Red, White and Black) with building instructions. Context Creating a replica of the Legendary Peugeot 205 GTI was on my plan for a long time. After completing the Citroen 2CV and Mehari, I wanted to reproduce more car with the 43mm tires as I though this small scale fits well the purpose of this creation : creating a affordable and detailed replica of iconic car, in order to propose it for car enthusiast. I did it with the Fiat 500 and it’s now Peugeot’s turn to be replicated in Lego. This car is very iconic, especially in France. It was the answer to the Vokswagen Golf GTI from Peugeot. It came first with a 1.6l 105hp, then with a more powerful 1.9l 130hp for 880kg. Combining with a sport design with black trim, new wheels and GTI inscription, it makes a very fun car to drive and have strong performances for its time. The 205 is also popular thanks to the rally version, the T16. Peugeot drivers Vatanen and Timo Salonen won seven out of the 12 rounds to give Peugeot its first manufacturers’ title in 1985. You can see it in action, from a blessed rally time, with other very iconic car such as the Audi Quattro : Functions This tiny vehicle is packed with different functions, such as suspensions, steering, and openable elements. The front suspensions are double wishbones with dissembled spring from the 76138 parts, where the original car have MacPherson suspensions. I have chosen this solution because of the available space, I could created a MacPherson strut but I preferred to tazke a simple solution to keep the price as affordable as possible. This solution, combined with the track width does not authorise to have a front drivetrain, that is why the engine is only for decorating. The rear suspensions are, as real, composed of independent trailing-arm with shock absorbers, which bring more space between, for the back seats. = The steering is fairly standard but differs from my previous small scale cars. Indeed, I can not use the classic solution (9l connecting rod) I have made on the Citroen 2Cv or the Fiat 500 because the track width were bigger. So I used two 6l connecting rod which connect to the same center pivot on the steering lever. Then, the axle goes in the chassis where a bevel gearing bring the motion to the Hand of God on the roof. I have not succeeded either to add a working steering wheel because of the available space, so I preferred to have a hand of god which is more playable. This hand of god can be removed easily from the roof to be store in the trunk. To finish with the functions, the doors can be open, revealing a detailed interior with seats, dashboard, back seats and the famous “red carpet”. The hood can be opened, revealing the (fake) detailed engine with the intake cover, cylinder head, and a battery. The trunk can also be opened to store the Hand of God. Design Even if the car is small in Lego Technic, the design was an important things. It had to mimic closely the iconic elements and the proportions to be recognizable, even at small scale. So I work on the proportions and their perception, for instance with a lot of cheese slopes to have the correct shape on the rocker panel, and the front and rear bumper. The headlights were the most complicated things to replicate on this car, because of the particular shape of the front one, and the proportions of the rear one. The front one is composed of cheese slope in transparent to create the shape near the grill, and uses upside down headlight brick in transparent to fix the different elements. The rear one is more classic, using plates, slopes and tiles but are not exactly accurate to the original. They should be narrower and less height, but it is a compromise due to the Lego elements. Since the Fiat 500, I work hard on the surface finish, to avoid the hole or strange pin/ axle color. For instance, I used tiles to cover the holes, or chose the correct orientation of the connectors and beams to have clean and smooth surfaces (on the roof for instance). As the scale is small, it has to be as clean as possible to avoid the distraction to recognize the car. That is why I used elbow, wings and tiles on the C pillar to have the correct shape. The interior had the same approach. As I could not reproduce the details only with technic parts, I used plates, tiles, slopes etc to create the correct shape. It is clearly visible in the dashboard for instance. It is one of the reason why I can not connect the steering wheel to the steering arm with a strong building so I preferred a more detailed one. To finish, as I did for my Honda S2000, the car is covered with stickers. With the help of Forwart Sticker, he created a custom sticker sheet which fits very well the exterior of the car, with Peugeot emblem on the front and rear, GTI logo for the side, side strips, and even two stickers to choose the size of the engine (1.6 or 1.9). The interior has also some stickers, with a dashboard, wheel steering GTI logo, and three vents controls, based on the 1.9 interior. There are some things which could be better as explained before, but I am very satisfied with the design and the functions of this car. The sticker helps a lot for sure, it brings the final touch to have a nice and affordable scale model of the Peugeot 205 GTI. Pictures and Video Dimensions : Scale : 1/13.5, Wheel : Ø43mm, 28cm (L) x 14cm (W) x 11.5cm (H) Purchasing the creations or the instructions As the previous small scale vehicle I did, of course I have to create building instructions, but I wanted as usual to propose different colors, that is why I have created three different versions based on the available parts and color : red, white and black. These versions are proposed for sale at Buildamoc in a complete package which includes the Lego genuine parts, the building instructions in a PDF, and the sticker sheet. You can only purchased the instructions if you want on my website (see building instruction section below). Building Instructions The instructions are 132 pages, for 985 parts, step by step high resolution (300DPI) computer generated instructions with partlists, flexible parts, part annotations, in the same way as the official Lego one. In my quest of making better and better instructions, I have included this time the sticker in the instructions to shown where to apply them. They are tiny so I recommend to use a small pliers and to not shaking ! You can buy the sticker sheet on Forwart’s Store. Regarding the bill of material, you can checked the exact bill of material for each version on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want : Peugeot 205 GTI (red version) (985 parts) Peugeot 205 GTI (White version) (985 parts) Peugeot 205 GTI (Black version) (985 parts) You can buy the instructions on my website : Fell free to comment, ask questions ! I would be happy to read your feedbacks 🙂
  4. I use 2270 parts on the 4108. Not so much but better than my previous alternate. For the rack corner, indeed it could be cool but the size do not match any interesting creation. this is the same with the linear actuators which is a bit too which limite the insipiration models.
  5. Thanks ! I have build at first a 6 inline engine, as on the real but it was too tall and collide with the engine cover. I could have increase the height of the engine cover but it doesn't match the proportion. So I have made the V8 instead at 90° to gain some space, and then decorate with the tube, exhaust, intake and rotating fans (that I love !). For the speed, indeed it is an important functions. I have test with different gearing but choose this one which combines the good speed and the precision of the control. You can switch a gearing if you want (20/28) to an other with same distance center, like 28/20 if you want more speed, or 12/36 to have less speed. Honestly, I find the 42100 is too slow to be enjoyable, even the other motorized functions. I always care about the speed and the accuracy of the functions, in order to be as fast as possible, but with accuracy on the movement. For instance the first section of the crane is slow because as it acts on the whole arm, the resulting movement on the hook is important. On the other hand, the speed of the second section is faster , because it acts on a smaller length or the arm. And of course, the rotation function is a mix between slow and fast but with a limited amount of gearing / lenght of the axle to avoid the play and shaky movement.
  6. Indeed I like symmetry ! It was of course a compromise in terms of space but did not affect the drive anyway, even in small offroading as the model is heavy.
  7. New creation ! An alternate model of the #42100 Lego Technic set, as a heavy tracked carrier, featured motorized tracks, outriggers, operating crane, fake engine with speed control, remote controlled with PoweredUp app. Context After completing my 42100 first alternate as a Vibroseis Truck, I wanted to make a second alternate, in a more classic way, with more parts and sturdier design to have a better offroad capabilities. So I have chosen the heavy tracked carrier from Powerbully as an inspiration, and started the design by the chassis and the motorized functions. Functions This creations use the 7 motors in the set donor. The first two XL motors are used for the drive of the tracks through gearing (20/28 and 12/36) which brings more speed than the official Lego Set. They are placed symmetrically in the chassis, and act also as part of it. The tracks use pendular bogies design, a feature I wanted to create at the beginning, comparing to the fixed bogie on the original set. The chassis has been designed accordingly to allow small rotation of the bogies, which helps to cross easily on obstacle. The second functions is the outriggers, which required a lot of design iteration to implement. They are driven by a L motor, placed underneath the rear platform, which drives an axle on each side through gearing. These axles drive then 4 linear actuators which are placed symmetrically to maintain a compact design of the stabilizers. They can not lift the model because of the operating force angle, but cover a large area around the model. Additional pads can be added, and stored on the rear platform. The next functions are on the operating crane. The crane rotation is operated by a L motor placed underneath the rear platform, which drives a spur gear on the turntable, through multiple gearing (no worm screw in this set). The final spur gearing has been chosen for its reliability comparing to the bevel one, which tends to make cracking sound under pressure. The crane has two sections. The first is driven by a XL motor placed in the chassis, and act as a part of it to hold the turntable. It drives directly the linear actuator through a U-join, ensuring a strong lifting. The second section is driven by a L motor placed in the arm, which drives also a linear actuator. This geometry has been chosen to have a strong crane which can lift the Diesel Generator. Indeed, I wanted at first to create a side folding crane, but the linear actuators were too long for the scale, and the placement of the motor did not fit the design. It results in a wobbly and weak crane at first. So I redesigned the whole crane based on a heavy model with no side folding functions, which ensure a better lifting force and stability. The second section of the arm can be extended with a manual pin, and the hook can be rotated by hand. The last functions is about the fake engine. As on my previous 42100 alternate, I wanted to have a fake engine which is not connected mechanically to any other functions. In order to create an idle function, and make it run faster if needed (operating crane for instance) as real. That is why a L motor is dedicated to this fake V8 engine and drives also two fans though gearing. The detailed engine is revealed by a cover, but the fans can be seen through the side windows. To finish with the openable elements and some details. The cabin door can be opened, revealing a detailed interior, with seats, dashboard, and even pedals. The rear platform is packed with some equipment, such as a big Diesel Generator with opening side cover, and also a pallet of fuel tanks. I have built at first a container, but it was too big and heavy to be lifted by the crane. So I have decided to divided the equipment in many other which are easier to handle. Design Process There is a lot to say about the design process, you can watch the Design Secrets of this creation on YouTube for more details (soon available). The main idea is that the functions drive the design in this case. I have started by making the functions that I wanted which affected the design : pendular bogie, outriggers, crane, and then work on the rest. It was very important to have a sturdy chassis to handle the weight of the model. That is why some electronics parts act as a part of the chassis, like the hubs. And that multiple beams and frame are used to reinforce the chassis from underneath to the top. The result is a flat underneath of the chassis, with 3-studs ground clearance, and accessible battery box. As the hubs are inside the chassis, I have created two small devices to push directly the physical power-on button of each hub, one on the rear platform, and one behind the cabin. Then I worked on the design and focused myself to have a sturdy look with a neat design. It has been done by the choice of the parts with the color and their orientation, but also the details and proportions. This time, I have chosen to use the original stickers as an advantage, by decorating more the model. For instance, with the warning label near the exhaust or hot parts, or for decorating the Diesel Generator or the front part. They add nice details, but are not mandatory if you have not applied them. The model is remote controlled using the official Lego app : PoweredUp App (available for Android and iOS). I have created a custom profile with slider, joystick and the program block to operate the model. It is pretty basic but works very good. I have also created a 36 pages tutorial to explain step by step how to do, and this tutorial is included in the instructions (you can see a preview at the end of the article). To finish with some limitations. I would have liked to make a folding crane, which can lifted the initial container, but it was not the case for the explained reason above. The consequence of the heavy crane is that it looks a bit massive and so the global proportion of the rear platform is a bit small. Apart that, I am really happy of the result, functions work good, the set is playable and sturdy, and I am satisfied with the design, especially the treatment of each white and dark grey surface in terms of finishing, details, and the way I handle the original sticker. Video More picture can be found on my website : Building Instructions The instructions are 536 pages, step by step high resolution computer generated instructions with partlist, color coded cable with layout, flexible parts, in the same way as official Lego one. It also includes 36 pages step by step tutorial in PDF to configurate the model for PoweredUp App (available for Android and iOS). You can see some previews of the instructions and the tutorial on my website. Regarding the bill of material, as an alternate model, if you own the #42100 Lego set, you have all the needed parts. But you can checked the exact bill of material on Rebrickable and export in whatever format you want : The instructions are for sale on my website or on rebrickable for 15€ excluding tax. Fell free to comment and ask questions 😀
  8. New video on my Hot Rod : a design secrets. Where I explained in a spoken english video how I designed and how it works : I hope you like this type of content. More infos can be foudn here, including article, pictures and building instructions :
  9. Thanks for your comment ! Indeed, making alternate model is always a compromise. Regarding the picture, I have a dedicated photo studio now but indeed, with the video, editing, writing etc, it requires the same amount of time than making the Lego creations !
  10. Thanks ! The post is mostly copy/paste from the article on my blog. I am happy that somebody read the complete story as many people do not today, only focusing on the picture or video (which is good too but sometimes the answers to the questions I have are in the article). Thanks !
  11. The page is A4 so resolution is 3508x2480px. For the edge on dark parts, you need to edit ldconfig file by replacing hexa code for the edge on the color you want (I work with ldraw library with Lpub3D for the instructions).
  12. 42127 Model B – Bucket Hot Rod An alternate model of the 42127 – Batmobile , as a Bucket Hot Rod. Features, steering connected to the steering wheel, RWD with fake V8 engine, opening doors, removable hard top, and light bricks in the engine and on the rear light, with building instructions. Context When the 42127 – Batmobile, was announced, it was a “meh” for me. Nice looking (especially the front) but a lack of functions for 1359 parts set : no suspensions, no working steering wheel, and of course no B model. The light bricks are cool features in Technic but the rear one is failed for me, as it is too far from the engine to illuminate correctly. That is why I wanted to make an alternate model of this set. There were not many options because of the different sizes between the front and rear wheels, so I chose to make a Bucket Hot Rod, in order to have a removable roof, for a better accessibility to the steering (and nice look too). Functions The steering is made using a classic rack and pinion solution, but I have put the pinion underneath the rack to have the steering axle as low as possible in the chassis to keep a low profile for a better looking. Then the steering axle goes to double bevel gearing to put the axle horizontally on the left. Then a U-join is used to connected it to the steering wheel. I had not enough place or clutch gearing to add a HOG so I decided to keep only the connection to the steering wheel in order to have a correct construction. The drivetrain is rather simple. The rear differential is connected to the engine with a straight axle which crosses the entire chassis and interior. Due to the difference of size of the tires, I have put the rear axle higher to keep good proportion regarding ground clearance which made it visible in the passengers area. That is why I have hidden it under a central console which also acts as the reinforcement of the structure. The lighting functions are interesting. I wanted to have a better illumination of the engine than the original model, that is why I have chosen to use the yellow light bricks on the engine which is stronger, and keep the red one for the rear lights. I have used this part on a side of the engine, where the light is, because it has a massive central hole which enables to illuminate the engine easily though the transparent material of the cylinders. Then, I have placed the light bricks on the correct height and as close as possible to have the best illumination possible. A lever placed on the center of dashboard is used to push the button on the light brick. The construction is made in a way that this lever is locked against the light bricks button when it is on, to ensure a constant functioning without having to operate continuously the lever (and a very satisfying clicking sound). The rear lights are not properly multiple lights on each side, but more a central lights composed of the red transparent lightsaber, where the differential can be seen. The red light brick is located behind the seats, on the left of the differential, which results in a complex building with plates to have the correct height without touching the differential. The light power is lower as it is placed further, but as the lightsabers are transparent red, it is enough to illuminate them. The button of the light brick is operated with a small lever located between the seat with a friction pin to ensure a constant functioning. To finish with more design functions, the doors can be open, revealed a detailed interior with dashboard (with use of the original stickers), seats and central console. The hard top can be removed to have a better accessibility to the steering wheel. I wanted at first to make a convertible roof, but I did not succeed with the parts, and in keeping the profile as low as possible. There were simply not enough room to store the convertible roof on the rear axle without damaging the look, that is why I have created a hard top instead. Design Process The design process is not very interesting regarding how I planed the model, but it is interesting in some building techniques. First I have started working on the front axle and a basic chassis, to have the lower profile as possible and scale the creation. Then I created the front grill which is an important and distinctive element. Then I created the engine with the light brick and its detail such as the intakes and exhausts because it has to look powerful. After that I reworked the chassis and created the rear axle and then connected the whole together. At this point, I have a pretty good idea what the model would look. I worked next on the steering wheel gearing and the interior, and to finish the rear details and light bricks. After some day, watching the creation and playing with, I have made some improvements, and it was done. The first building technique is how I create the steering column. It has to handle the gearing and the correct angle of the steering wheel, despite the lack of any fixed connector. I have used this part on one side, and two of this part on the other side which was not easy to implemented on the whole assembly with the U-join and connection with the bodywork and the chassis. It results in a very dense and complex structure which I am proud of. The second building technique is how I fixed the exhaust on each side. As you can see, there are attached to the chassis only with a friction pin and are locked on the engine. But it was not enough to prevent that they rotated under heavy playing. That is why I have used a construction with this part, which is placed recessed and underneath the elbow. This construction prevents the whole exhaust assembly to rotate, and as it is thin and dark, it is mostly invisible. There are others small interesting building techniques that I will develop in the Design Secrets of this creation later. To finish with a global appreciation, I am very happy with the design of this creation. Even if the parts were mostly black which is useful for the design, the lack of connector and axle joiner, and even axle makes the design a bit tricky to avoid mismatched colors. But in my opinion, I succeeded. I am happy with the details on the engine, which looks powerful, and the use of certain panels to create interesting shapes, like the mudguard on the front bodywork and on the back of the bucket, but also this panel to create the rear shape. It gives a nice shape with a low profile vehicle which looks like making drag race ! This model uses only 842 parts on the 1359 parts which seems to be low, but this model is smaller than the original A model and have not a full bodywork, just a bucket bodywork, and open engine area. Despite that, it has classic but playable functions and nice looking with the lights on and several details, it is a great addition to the original model. Pictures and Video Specs : 32cm (L) x 18cm (W) x 12cm (H) Building Instructions The building Instructions are 132 pages steps by step in 300DPI with partlist, flexible parts, white edge on dark parts, highlighted parts for each step. They are available on my blog and on rebrickable. I hope you like it ! Fell free to comment 😀
  13. Thanks for your comment, can you point me which part do you talk about ?