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About nico71

  • Birthday 12/07/1988

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  1. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    New creation : A reproduction of Citroën Mehari in 1/15 Scale, featured independent suspensions, steering, working doors, tailgate, bonnet and removal hood, with building instructions. Context After my Mini Citroën 2CV in Lego, many people asked me to build other Citroën models, for instance DS, BX, SM but also (and mostly) Mehari. After some months, a fan asked me by email to design him a Mehari version of the Big 2CV I designed year before, which convicted me to work on the Citroën Mehari version and make building instructions in order he can rebuild it. I have chosen to not go for a big scale because of the amount of needed parts and because I wanted to build in different colours. That is why I have chosen a small 1/15 scale for these Mehari. Functions The functions are rather basic in this scale, but are mainly focused on playability. As on my previous Mini 2CV, the Mehari version is equipped with independent suspensions with metal springs located in the floor. It enables to have the same bouncing suspensions as real. The steering wheel is connected to the steering using U-joins and operated the steering by a lever plus a link 6L. An other link 9L connect the two wheels. The next functions are more about design functions. In deed, the doors and the bonnet can be opened to reveal a detailed engine (but not working), which can be removed easily to see how the steering and suspensions work. The rear is equipped with a spare tire accessible by the rear tailgate which can be opened too. To finish the upper hood can be remove easily with centring pins on the middle near the pillar and axles at the rear, in order to have a better playability or realistic look. Design The design was the most difficult part here. The mini scale has the advantage to enable less details for the users, but need to have iconic details and good proportions in order that people forgive the approximation but recognise easily the model. I have started to work on the side of the car, trying to reproduce the shape of the rear wheel arch. I also wanted to build something sturdy and with cheap parts, that is why I have chosen a combination of a panel, beam and tiles. The other difficult part which has reduced the available colour for this project were the doors. I wanted to reproduce the shape of the doors and the difference of height between the doors and the bonnet which are iconic. I managed by using Bionicle tooth and a beam positioned with an angle. It doesn’t fit perfectly the original shape but it enables to have a sturdy design and smooth side. The other difficult part was the fact that the rear wheels are covered by the mudguard and go in the bodywork, as on the 2CV. I was easy to do on the 2Cv because the trunk was closed and not visible, therefore I could hide the wheels inside the wheel arch on the each side (which reduced the room in the trunk). But here I could not make the same because it would have reduced the size of the rear trunk and would not fit the proportions. that is why I searched a way to have a thinner box as possible, by using plate and tile placed by half pin. I finished the design by making the interior and the bonnet which was easy to do with the connectors and beams. The front is rather simple also except the lights which use 1/2 gap technique to fit correctly the lights and corner lights around the front grill and the bonnet. The only regret I have is to not be abbe to put end stops on the suspension and steering in order that the wheels do not touch the body when you turn and press entirely the suspensions. It was too hard to fit at this scale without reducing too much the travel of suspensions. Pictures and video More pictures at : Building Instructions An important point of this project was to create building instructions. That is why I focused myself to use available and cheap parts and find 3 possible versions without major changes in design : red, white and orange. You can see below the three versions with : A link to Rebrickable inventory A link to bill of material as image Red Version Want to know if you can build the red version of the Citroën Mehari ? Click here. Bill of material in picture file (red version) White Version Want to know if you can build the white version of the Citroën Mehari ? Click here. Bill of material in picture file (white version) Orange Version Want to know if you can build the orange version of the Citroën Mehari ? Click here. Bill of material in picture file (orange version) You can see example of the building instructions and buy it for 7.5€ on my website. I hope you enjoy, feel free to comment or ask questions :)
  2. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thank you for the comments :) Indeed, creatin a B (or C or D) model is very exciting and challenging, and it worth for the instructions.
  3. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Hello Everyone, this is my new creations, after month of work on the model and the instructions, it is now released ! -------------------------------------- An alternate model of the 42082 as a Heavy Forklift Truck, featured steering, rear oscillating suspensions, fake engine, opening engine, battery bay and doors, raising and tilting fork, adjustable fork width and tilting maintenance cabin. Context After releasing the 42082 Model C – Wheel Loder, it had a nice success on Youtube and Rebrickable but some people complained about the fact there were only 2 motorised functions (plus some manual) and the use of only 1786 parts. Therefore, I wanted to create a new alternate model for the 42082 which would use more parts and with more functions. I consequently decided to work on a heavy forklift truck in the beginning of February. Functions As described above, I have tried to put the maximum of functions in this creations, with some manual (steering, suspension, openable elements) and some other motorised (fork). The first one is the steering on the rear axle, the hand of god is placed on the top and passes through the motor axle with a 20t simple bevel, then operates a rack and pinion with Ackerman geometry. The rear axle has also a small oscillating suspensions by using the axle of rotation for the steering. End-stops prevent the wheels to touch the mudguards. The fake V6 engine is located on the front and is visible after tilted the cabin. It is connected to the front axle with a central differential. All motorised functions are powered by a L-Motor located underneath the battery box at the rear and drive the 4 gearboxes with a bevel gear inverted underneath (same principle as official 42082) to create the two way of rotation needed. Each driving ring is connected then to a function, and many gearing and axles connect the functions : Tilting fork Raising fork Adjustable fork width Tilting maintenance cabin The tilting of the fork is operated by two linear actuators placed each side of the fork. The raising of the fork is a bit more complex : the boom of the fork is composed of a frame and a sliding section plus the fork which can move inside, the fork is attached to the chassis underneath by passing to the top of the sliding section. Then, the second section of the boom is raised using racks and pinion though the two axles with U-join which make move the fork consequently (this is the same functioning as on the 8416). Of course the reachable position in height for the fork highly depends of the number of rack in the 42082 set which is not bad but not so high. I have placed two axles with U-join firstly because it enables to not hide the road from the cabin for realistic point, and second because it enables to handle more torque by dividing the torque on each axle. You can see on the picture underneath that there are two clutch gears in line in order to have enough friction to raise the fork but not too many to secure the play. You can see also the complex path of the string, as it is attached to the both side of the fork and is 300cm-length, I had to deal with this length (I did not want to cut it to enable re-building of the main model of the 42082). Therefore I have create a drum to wind the string and also adjust the position of the fork on its ends by rotating the drum. The last function on the fork is the adjustable fork width, which can be done only in lower position. It is explained by the fact that there are not possibilities to control the small linear actuators with moving fork without sliding gear or other rope or embedded motors. When the fork is on its lower position, the gears which connect the mini-linear actuators are connected to the two double bevel gears which enables to operate the width. The main axle is stuck out in order to centre the fork gearing for avoid cracking. The last motorised functions is the tilting maintenance cabin, which is operated by a mini linear actuator underneath the cabin. It enables to made the operation of maintenance on the real one and to discover the V6 engine here. Design The idea was to propose a creation with many functions but also a nice look to play with it. In this way, the rear trunk can be opened to reveal the battery box and are held in place thanks friction linkages. The small dark bluish grey panel on the front can also be opened to see the drivetrain. To finish with the design functions, the doors of the cabin can be opened. The model is also highly detailed with lights and mirrors, bars, detailed cabin with seat, dashboard and levers, but also sturdy in order to have a good playability. Video Building Instructions The release of my previous alternate model for the 42082 told me that fans like a lot comprehensive building instructions for alternate model, therefore, after month of works, I can propose you the complete building instructions. The building instructions are composed of 360 pages, step by step pages computer rendering which looks like official Lego one, at the price of 15€. You can note that we have increased the quality of the instructions again, by using new features (buffer exchange for wire and rope, white edge on black parts, rotate icon, gear stress picture). Here is the complete bill of material in picture file : –– But you can also checked it on rebrickable and export in whatever format you want : Want to know if you can build the 42082 Model D Forklift Truck ? The Forklift Truck has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! You can buy the instructions for 15€ on my blog or on rebrickable. You can see some example of the page of the instructions : Please note this building is rather complex and composed of many moving axle and gears and drivetrain. Please pay attention to not stress the gearing, axles and bushes, and bracing correctly each, in order to have free rotation on every axle to avoid problem of functioning. Having a battery in good health is highly recommended. ------------------------ Feel free to comment or ask questions, I hope you like it :)
  4. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    A Lego Technic steam machine powered by two pneumatic cylinders engine, with valve gear mechanism, speed indicator, air control valve and building instructions. Context Since my last pneumatic mine, I wanted to build a Lego pneumatic engine with the new cylinderswhich are bigger. At the beginning, I wanted to build a Steam Traction Engine or a Locomotive to focus on the valve gear, but I wanted to use the new gear rack from the 42082 as the flywheel, nevertheless it was complicated to implement due to the scale. That is why I focused the work on the big steam machine like the mill steam machine which have a big flywheel at the center. Functioning This machine is composed of a chassis, two pneumatic engines with valve gear, a flywheel which connects the both engines, a speed indicator display thanks to a governor and an air control valve. The valve gear is inspired by one on the locomotive but without the reverse mode. It enables to reduce the dead point on the switch and maximize the time on left or right position which increases the efficiency of the engine. It is composed of a main crank and connecting rod to the cylinder, plus a second crank which has a angular offset also connected to the piston rod with a linkage system which connects the both to the switch. This combination of the two cranks and linkage system enable to have a non-linear motion (you can see it on the video, the switch seems to jump from left to right and so forth). The two engines are symmetrical, and are totally independent. The machine can work with only one cylinder or two, the flywheel connected the right engine to the left, using a gear multiplication of 5:1, it enables also to create a angular offset of about 90° between the two cylinders, which helps to make start the engine in any case (but create some vibration). Please note also that either the pneumatic cylinder, either the switches are not modified. The speed indicator uses the same principle has on my old centrifugal tachometer. It is connected the the left engine, and the rotation speed raises the two arms which pull a lever which makes rotate the indicator. Of course this system do not regulate the air flow. Because in Lego, it doesn’t exist a proper valve, the only way it to pinch the hose which requires lot of force, force that can not be provided by small plastic arms which rotate. Maybe it is possible to make at a bigger scale and with a very soft hose. The last equipment is the air control valve which is operated by the handle. It drives a worm screw on a 24t gear, with a small lever which pinches the hose. By modifying its section, the air flow is controlled, from totally closed to totally open to adjust the speed. Design I wanted to make a working engine but also a nice detailed one. That is why I have chosen a color scheme for visual description, with yellow for pneumatic and moving parts, red for the engine chassis, and black for the rest. I have made also some details like the working area on a platform with the controls, and fences. At final, I find that the engine work smooth thanks to the big flywheel and the valve gears, and is very didactic and nice to see for people who like kinetic sculpture, that is why I have made a building instructions. Video Building Instructions There are not so many instructions for non-modified pneumatic engine, even less with the new bigger cylinders, that is why I wanted to create a high-quality building instructions for this machine, but also easy to set up. That is why the linkage mechanism is easy to build with no setup, each engine is independent (you can build only one if you want) and there is only one timing angle to respect on each engine (important angle are specified in the instructions). The building instructions are complete 204 step by step pages computer rendering building instructions at the price of 10€ (190 mo PDF). You can buy here : or on rebrickable. Want to know if you can build the Steam Machine ? The Steam Machine has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! :)
  5. nico71

    [WIP] Subaru Impreza WRX STI

    The S2000 is insane at the interior to fix all the bodywork correctly and have the correct angle. Do not think that no gearbox means simple chassis. Nevertheless, I understand your point, it is not always easy to start with the bodywork especially when you want to focus on functioning and functions but here is the difference for me now, I want to focus on the design rather than the functions, it is more challenging for me as it is my weak point. Of course If I want tomake a particular car with particular functions, I will focus on the chassis and then the bodywork if the bodywork is easy to do. With a nice design, the creations is always love, with a bulky design, even if you have made a breakthrough on the inside, it will not have the same impact.
  6. nico71

    [WIP] Subaru Impreza WRX STI

    I personnally start to make a fake chassis with only the correct dimensions, wheel base and steering. And Then I design the bodywork. When I am satisfied with the bodywork (which can be before the end of design) I design the chassis. In this way, the bodywork is never bad compare to the functions :) I start to make like that since the big Citroen 2CV because the bodywork was a huge challenge. And making a complete chassis and then can't figure out the bodywork would be losing my time.
  7. nico71

    [WIP] Subaru Impreza WRX STI

    This is a great work. But you should definitively start by designing the bodywork and not the chassis. Juste make a fake chassis for the proportion (whee, wheelbase, width length etc.) and then make the bodywork. When the bodywork is perfect at your eyes, you can make the chassis, and fit all you want (and can) inside. Because, as I see the project, I see the chassis is well done and very sophisticated, and the bodywork is not at this level of detail, a bit too bulky. So I advice to start with the bodywork to focus the effort on it and then made the chassis. It is not a hard criticism, just a tips to have a bodywork which is a good, as the inside.
  8. nico71

    Happy Hourglass

    Wow awesome, is there a video of functioning ?
  9. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Honda France has featured me on their facebook page ! I know this is in french but this is a recognition for me, as a huge fan of honda :)
  10. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    I think of course (it is writen in the article), but which one ? The smaller is too small, and a build one is not very homogeneous with the design, do you have some proposals ?
  11. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Here is a complete review of my new creation : A replica of a the Honda S2000 AP2, with steering, double wishbone suspensions, detailed tilted engine F22C1, opening doors, hood, trunk and manual convertible top. With custom sticker and 3d printing wheel, and building instructions. Context Yes, again, a Honda. After finishing my Honda NSX in lego technic, I had on my todo-list several other honda like the civic EG, the new NSX and the S2000. But there was a common point : I wanted to make it in black this time, that is why some months ago I have bought some flex axles and panels. I wanted also to push the details and design to its limits, with 3D printed rims, and sticker but also a (nearly) perfect shaped bodywork . That is why, this creation took months to make but it worth it. Consequently I have made the pro building instructions. As usual, I have chosen the medium scale. This the perfect scale for me because it enables to have enough place for some mechanisms like drive-train, suspensions (with some tricks) and steering but also make easier the making of the bodywork. Indeed, people who will judge the creation will be more responsive to the compromise, and the empty space or gap will be less important. With a big scale, you can put many functions in it but the bodywork has to be perfect in shape and homogeneity, if not the creation will look bulky, or with two many empty spaces. This balance is easier to find at this scale and the result is good with a proper density of elements. Functions Regarding the scale and the high level of detail I wanted, I have mainly focused myself on important functions without forget the details. That is why there is a drivetrain from the rear axle to the engine but not a gearbox, there is a steering wheel which is connected to the wheels but not a Hand Of God. But there are also some tricks to have for instance the suspensions and the drive-train at this scale which I will explain. The first function is the drive-train with the detailed engine. The rear axle is equipped with a floating differential to accommodate the scale and having suspensions. I use for that the ball joint and pivot frame to create this. then the motion goes to the engine with two U-joins. I have chosen to make the engine using the same building as the mack anthem (known before but first use in a lego set). It enables me to make the 4 inline cylinders engine in only 6-studs long. I wanted also to make a detailed engine, with the camshaft, belt and so on. I use for that the 12t gear with 24t gear to have the correct ratio, (in real it is a belt but using a chain was not really good and smooth) to rotate the camshaft. I have also put the complete exhaust, air intake, accessory pulley and belt and of course the Vtec sticker (visible here on the instruction sheet). The engine is also build on a frame which is slightly tilted to reproduce the natural tilted angle of the F20C engine. On the front of this, there is the steering. The space between the engine and front axle is very small that is why the command of the steering is located in the front. The steering wheel is connected to the rack and pinion by two U-joins (which pass near the engine), 12t on 24t gear, and 12t on rack and pinion. The small trick here is that I have used some levers on each side of the rack to be guided during the displacement, instead on letting oscillate with the play. It tends to make the steering more accurate. The suspensions are double wishbones suspension, made with standard element on the front and build one for the rear. The trick is that I used disassembled spring and sliding connector on a axle as a shock absorbers (visible on this instruction sheet) and not connecting the both sides of the bottom wishbone to let pass the drive-train. It enables me to build a very compact and functional solution for the suspensions. You can see the on the picture the underneath : Next functions are the opening functions. Of course the doors can be opened, the trunk (which is ridiculously small) and the hood which is kept in place by friction pin to reveal the engine. The last function is the convertible top. I did not want to create a convertible top using some leather of tissue which were not lego, but a rigid top which can be folded as the real one. The most difficult part was the C-pillar. As it was rigid, it had to be hide somewhere, that is why I have chosen to use panels and to hide between the wheel and the rear bumper. The other moving parts are folded behind the seat, and the whole top rotates on two arms fixed near the seats. You can see a gif here and overal process here. I am not entirely satisfied about this, because as the C-pillar are rigid, it has to be enough place to goes in and out. To accommodate the empty or filled space, I design two sides wings cover for it. Of course they are attached to the car but they are not very nice when the top is operated. You can see it on a gif, as two antenna / wings comes up at the beginning of the process. But it enables me to have a rigid convertible top which folds like the real one and have the correct shape for the car. It was definitively the most difficult part to create with the engine. Design The design was also a difficult part for this build. Of course at this scale, there is not many possibilities to create the correct shape, but it has also to be as good as possible, to catch the identity of the car, with no empty gap, strange building or shape. The trick is always to reproduce the iconic elements of the car by using the less amount of parts in the purest way to build, the design will look homogeneous and not bulky. First I have chosen the AP2 version of the Honda S2000, not the first one, the AP1, because the shape of the front bumper has more angle, and the rear light is more distinctive in this lego version. You can note indeed that on the front, bumper, I reproduce the particular shape on the side by using small panel fixed by a think liftarm underneath, which is completed by angled connector on the top, which also joins the radiator shape to create the car’s mouth. This combination of design element was very hard to find and to fix in compact and sturdy way. It shows a important part of the design here, the half stud gap. Indeed, the half stud gap is the most important technique here in this build to make the bodywork. Because at this scale, if the main unit in the stud, some element may not be very well-placed because either placed too closed or too far, or on a wrong position depending of the chosen stud. With a half stud you can choose the correct place. To create this gap, I use mainly perpendicular connector like this one or this one or this one or the pole reverser connector or the toggle joint. I use this half stud gap on many elements of the car. It includes the side skirts which are slightly stuck out and the mudguards which need it to shape the wheel correctly. The rear bumper uses also this a lot, to first shape correctly the mudguards, but also be a bit higher than the side skirts to respect to overall shape of car. It is also used for the rear light using this part (visible on the instructions sheet). And to finish it is also used for the front side panel where the soft axle comes from to create the shape on the edge of the hood. (visible on this instruction sheet). Regarding the details, I wanted to create a high level of details, that is why I have chosen to have a complete detailed interior instead of having a gearbox. The interior is then equipped with the seat, dashboard, gauges, lever and steering wheel (which is always too big at this scale). But I wanted also to have particular identity of the car with 3D printed wheel cover and the stickers. The stickers were obvious for me because it helps to know the brand and the model. They have been made by forwart sticker (his bricklink store here) which include the one on the dashboard which is very nice. I design the 3D wheel cover on Creo (Pro-Engineer) based on classic Mugen wheel and then modified a bit to enhance the printability. Then Teclem8 has printed it for me and then polish (you can see it in video), and I have paint it it with spray metallic silver . Sticker made by Forwart Sticker I will conclude on the design with two tips. I think there are two important points to have a good design. First is to reproduce the iconic shape or element of the car by using small amount of parts in a pure design, which means it has to be not bulky or strange or wrong color etc. It has to catch the identity of the car in a simple way. I can be done by reproducing some details, or particular shape, or color etc. The second point is to not limit your building with the classic positioning and orientation giving by lego parts (like stack it on every stud, and orientating the parts with perpendicular connectors only). It is important to use every building techniques to place the parts where they have to be placed and not where it is easier to attach, by using half stud gap, rotating the parts, using the angled connector and beam, soft axle etc. Building Instructions The idea of this creation was to create the best reproduction of the Honda S2000 at this scale, I do not know if I have succeeded but I think it is a very beautiful car and a nice building. As a fan, and knowing there are many fans of Honda and Lego supercar, I have made the pro-instructions for this car. It is complete 230 step by step pages computer rendering building instructions at the price of 10€ (390 mo PDF). Here is the complete bill of material in picture file : But you can also checked it on rebrickable : Want to know if you can build the Honda S2000 ? The Honda S2000 has been indexed to rebrickable, check it ! You will find more pictures about the car and the instructions to my blog here. :)
  12. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Yes it is also possible but I have not proposed this because for a big model like that with this tires, it is obvious that it has to be motorized for a function like that. The tilting cab or outrigger can be manual but the tilting for the fork need to be powered for me :)
  13. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Thanks for your comments ! This is not possible for me to build this, because the fork tilting must be controlled by something (when the boom is raised) and with only one motor you can not put a gearbox for many function and goes to the fork without using a slidding 8t on axle. Otherwise the boom is not telescopic and it is not fun. You can make also using many gear on a slidding arms (as on the front on my forklift) bit it need many gears and I do not think it works. Last solution is to use the string to operate the tilting but the 42082 string is not tight enough. So, harder that it seems !
  14. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    This is not a rotating cab, as soon it is publish, you will see, but as mentionned it is not a usefull function for functionning. @steph77 you are right for the functionning of the adjustable fork, this is the only way to do with the inventory, and it works fine !
  15. nico71

    Nico71's Creations

    Those wheel cover are 3D printed, and then polish, like the sticker, it is all custom.