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Brickstarrunner

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About Brickstarrunner

  • Birthday 08/22/96

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    USA
  1. I went back to one of the vendors at the flea market to get some more LEGO. When I went this time, his LEGO stock was much smaller, so I know he may be running out soon. I need to go back next week before his entire stock is gone! Anyways, this is my haul and I got it all for $25. Compared to the last flea market buy I did, I got an extra horse and minifigure out of it so I'm happy. 6 minifigures cost me $15 and two horses cost me $10. Once again, pictures link to higher quality ones. My new additions to the family. Two Woodsmen, one Wolfpack, one Crusader, one unknown faction, and an Adventurer-esque guy. Got my first two Forestmen minifigures. Once again they are in great condition and I couldn't find anything wrong with them. Well, the only complaint I could have is that one of the Woodsmen doesn't have the feather in his hat. I don't mind since I can get a replacement off of Bricklink for cheap. My first Wolfpack minifigure. He's in good condition as well. His face decal has worn down around the edges of his hat, but his hat hides that from view. I was quite surprised with this. Last time when I bought the horse and figure with armor, just one entire figure cost me $10, and that was at the other vendor. The vendor I went to for these minifigures I found out also sold animals and what not in the back. He said a horse on its own is $3, a saddle is $4, and a barding set with horse helmet is $6. So for two horses I paid $10! Two knights to add to my collection which now totals to...three. They are in good condition, but the one on the left had a cracked arm behind the shield so the hand pops out easily. The one to the left I know for sure is a Crusader, but I got no idea who the one on the right is. The one on the right rides a horse bearing symbols that tell he's a Crusader, but the figure's color scheme itself doesn't match. A crusader is red and blue with a grey helmet, but this guy is red and black with a black helmet. Any help on which faction he belongs to? Or is he just a mix of different minifig parts and is a wholly different faction on his own? This horse in total cost $4. Also came with a hammer attached to the clip so that was a nice little prize. Horse is in good condition, as well as the saddle because they were stored in back. Seriously, I really don't know what faction he is in. Lego CASTLE factions are not my expertise since I never owned any of the original factions up until now. Anyways, horse is in good condition. Helmet as well. Bunting is also in really good condition. All around a good deal for $6 compared to the last horse. I also got an Adventurer's-esque minifigure. I know it's strange. In a haul that is mostly Castle-centric I got this Adventurers type of guy. But the vendor was willing to throw him into the mix and lower the prices, so instead of paying $18 for 6 minifigures, I paid $15 for 6. I got 6 for the price of 5! How could I resist? Besides, Adventurers is one of my alltime favorite theme out of all the LEGO themes, so getting another minifigure to add to my expedition is always a nice treat. Came with a clip in the back, carrying a repeating rifle and a flintlock. So for the same price that I paid last time ($25) I managed to get one extra minifigure and one extra horse. I feel like I did better than last time.
  2. Today I decided to check out a local flea market that was open today with my parents. While browsing I noticed two vendors selling LEGO minifigures. One was exclusively selling a variety of different minifigures while the other vendor was selling only a handful of minifigures alone but around 7-9 horses with nearly all of them complete with a rider and accessories. The first vendor was selling their minifigures at $3 for unlicensed and $5 for licensed (Mostly old and new Star Wars figures). The $3 figures were quite diverse from pirates to western to some modern ones too. A lot of mish mashed ones here and there. The second vendor was selling their horses at $10 a horse complete with accessories and minifigure. The only problem with them was that a lot of them were mixed. Like you'd have the shield of one castle on a rider of a different castle riding a horse with the armor of another castle. Luckily that vendor allowed me to mix the right color and castle combination to my liking (Because if he didn't let me do so, I wouldn't buy a horse at all.) All in all I spend about $25 flat on my whole purchase. $15 for the minifigures and $10 for the horse + rider + accessories. I'd just like to know how I did on my first time out. (All the images lead to a much higher resolution picture) Here's the new family all gathered together. Two islanders, three pirates, and one knight. All together they totalled $25 out of my pocket. My first two Island minifigures in my entire collection. Luckily it's a male/female pair, so neither of them will feel too alone here. Here's the backsides to the two of them. The female Islander's back is a little rough all around. A much clearer shot of her back. You can see all the marks and dirt back there. Other than that and a few other minor dings, she's in pretty good condition. Three more pirates to add to my collection of scurvy sea dogs. As of now, I have a total of 7 pirate minifigures. 4 are from the more modern-ish pirate sets and 3 are from the older sets. They were in pretty good condition themselves. I could notice not a lot of scratches or marks on any. The only one with a problem. was the pirate holding the bucket. His arm had a crack in it which let his hand pop off easily. I quickly replaced that with a spare blue arm I had lying about. I suppose I am now a doctor of minifigures if I was able to mend his broken arm. My first older castle minifigure and overall my second castle minifigure. I don't have a lot of castle in my inventory... Overall the horse and figure are in good condition. There's some dirt on the horse but it's hidden under its armor. Archer...dismount! Like I said prior the horse is in good condition except for some dirt on his behind which is hidden by his horse armor. My first horse armor. It's in good condition and I didn't notice any fading, chipping of the paint, or what not. I always knew that horse armor looked very pretty from many pictures I've seen, but holding one for the first time let me examine its great detail very closely. I'm not experienced at this at all. I am very much used to buying figures straight from LEGO stores and I quite honestly don't have much in my collection aside from modern figures. How good was my find, and would you say the prices were fair? If they are, I am certainly going to be going back to snatch up what I can before they're taken up. Plus, in my opinion at least, being on my display table in my room is a better fate than being stuck in a locked plexiglass case stranded out in the sun or stuck on top of a Megabloks baseplate, right?
  3. It's been a while since I posted on Eurobricks, mostly because I sort of fell out of the Lego hobby for a while. Recently I began to pick up interest again and I dusted off an old Lego Digital Designer project I was doing before I took my break from it. It's a late 19th century railroad passenger car that is roughly around 800 to 900 bricks in total. I had the plan of buying up the necessary bricks I needed online via Bricklink, eBay, Pick-a-Brick, etc. to build my model. I don't have much experience with building models in real life other than the ones inside the pre-made instruction booklets, so I am unsure if my model would be able to hold itself together on its own or if part of the model/the entire thing would fall apart at the slightest touch. I tried to use techniques I already know, such as overlapping bricks to increase durability and such, but even then I'm not sure how much that will help. Is there a way I can stress test a digital model to see if the structure is sturdy or not. To try and see what parts are rock solid and what parts may break off is given even a slight nudge. I don't have all the bricks necessary at home to create a test version and I'm rather stricken on money at the moment, so I'd rather not spend more than what I just need for the model itself. Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  4. Official Lego Movie

    I seriously want to see more of Unikitty somewhere, like maybe in a short one minute sketch or something.
  5. Official Lego Movie

    Personally, this has got to be my favorite line said by Biznis Unikitty thus far.
  6. Official Lego Movie

    A friend of Finn brings over a box of Mega Bloks to play with and they're set loose within the LEGO world
  7. Garden Railway

    If your backyard is small enough, I would suggest laying a tarp over the entire railway. Like sort of tie the tarp's sides along the fence border of your backyard. Think of it as taking four pencils and a handkerchief and making a sort of 'roof' over the layout, except on a much bigger scale. That way the plastic would be protected from harmful elements like sun and rain. Something like this but making sure there are no gaps between the tarps. Also, while highly unlikely for many people, I always recommend if they want a garden railway, try doing it in a greenhouse or something. It's got the right environment to raise a large variety of plants as well as sheltering both the plastic and plants from harmful elements, And if the plastic/glass surrounding the structure of the greenhouse is tinted, it would also help reduce the fading of colors on the bricks. I would also suggest leaving room for expansion. You never know when you would want to add an extra siding, possible branch line, or all around new water feature. Speaking of which, I would also recommend if you are going to add a pond or any other water feature, take inspiration from G Scale Garden Railways.Depending on how big the pond is and if the funds permit, add in a running water feature, like a small waterfall or something. I know Home Depot sells fountains that look a lot like rock work, which would fit in nicely on a lot of layouts, regardless if they're LEGO or not. If you want the pond to be still, you could try adding some features to it to liven it up. Add in a rowing boat, people fishing, a dock to the side, whatever you can think of. I know I've been inspired by them in one way or another. Don't be afraid to get creative! Experiment with some things to see if it works or not! I really do hope this project falls through perfectly for you!
  8. Help With Power Functioning My Train?

    Thanks for providing those inspiration links, zephyr. I am getting an absolute kick from looking at all these photos, and some of them inspiring me in a way. I especially like these designs I found from the links you gave: I am currently trying to combine some ideas I got from the pictures I viewed, but I wish I LDD was a bit more versatile with their brick placement But like I said, thanks for sharing the links. Much appreciated!
  9. [MOC] Es. Co. Tracto-motive Steamer

    I like the idea of reusing old steam tractors and turning them into steam locomotives. Any plans on what to do with it?
  10. I already made a thread asking for help over at the 'LEGO Train Tech' Theme. I wanted to ask here in case someone might have an answer but doesn't read the Train Tech forums. The entire thread with all the details in it can be viewed right over here Basically, as a cliff notes version, I am wanting to add Power Function Train Motors to a train I am wanting to build. There are multiple problems that keep on rising, however. Where will I put the PF Train motor? How many will I need? How much will the weight of the entire train affect the motor(s) and speed? Should I use different means of propulsion, like 9v motors or using PF motors and gears to drive the train? It's just that the project will be very heavy on my pockets, and I just want to get it right the first time without having to spend more than I should. Can anyone here help me?
  11. Help With Power Functioning My Train?

    How much power does a PF train motor have in it? Because as said in the post above, I did some tests with official LEGO rail cars, which are indeed smaller and lighter than what I have. My PF train motor was struggling to push three relatively light coaches, so I'd hate to see how one PF train motor would deal with 6 heavy coaches. Even pulling I don't see it having a huge success rate. If I were going to have to include 2 PF motors, I would do so at the front of the combine car and under the tender. Those are currently the best places I could think of currently. And I do have to agree that I *will* have to have 2 PF train motors. While doing some research, I came across this. Basically out of all three train motor types (9v, RC, and PF) The PF one came out as the best, and if one PF train motor struggles, I will most likely require two. While looking for more inspirations, I came across this picture from this article which gave me another idea for a possible plan that I could, in theory, execute. I would use a medium or large PF motor and gears to run the custom bogies by trying to implement gears and what not. Only problem is that I have no experience with technic gears, torque, and what not, and I could potentially be blowing money into an area that may not harbor the results I desire. I would also love to try putting the PF motor and gears into the engine itself or creating a baggage car to ride directly behind the tender, but the problem in that is the idea. Let me explain...I am strictly wanting to limit my design down to the Disneyland Railroad's 1955 Passenger Train, which consisted of one WED Enterprises American 4-4-0, one combine car, four passenger cars, and one observation/presidential car. The boiler of the engine is too narrow to place a large motor. A medium motor could fit, and using gears and such, power all four driving wheels and having the battery box and IP receiver run in the tender behind, but I am not sure if the medium sized PF motor would have enough power to haul both the engine and 6 coaches. The battery box may also be too big for the tender, but that can be worked around by soldering a 9v LiPo battery onto it and making the whole thing compact, as shown as an idea I put in the original topic: The only places I would put the battery box and IP receiver are either in the Lilly Belle since there is already nothing in it, or preferably the combine's baggage room since most of it is not seen from the windows and I could easily hide the battery and IP receiver. In the end, the only thing left I could think of doing is buying a 9v train motor and building the tender around that, maybe opening up the 9v motor to amp up the power, and copper plating all my plastic track and buying a lego 9v track controller. Of course I want that to be a last ditch effort thing... My research and modifications for the best solution to my problem rages on as I try to add Power Functions to my train...
  12. Help With Power Functioning My Train?

    If anyone remembers a while back, I did a LDD rendition of Disneyland's original 1955 Railroad Coaches. While I haven't made any new posts about it, I have been working on it here and there. I've been cross referencing my LDD models with Brickset's brick catalog and sellers of such bricks on Bricklink. I've switched out some bricks in favor of ones that I can buy, and the ones that don't come in the colors I would need will unfortunately have to repaint or dye existing bricks of the same shape to the color that I would need them for. But overall, I do plan on buying the necessary bricks needed to build the coaches, and eventually the whole train(s). First I will buy the bricks needed, repaint/dye the ones that need to be recolored, assemble the whole thing, add custom stickers and LEDs to make it complete, and finally admire the whole beauty. Only problem is that I don't just want it to sit on a shelf or be a push train on its own. I want my train to run using Power Functions, but I am having a bit of trouble with that. Let me get the updated pictures of the coaches out of the way first. EDIT: Updated with Flickr Photos so people don't have to click links to view. I've made some slight changes over the old designs. For one thing, I made all the cars a bit longer because I had to make the combine car a little longer too. It was too short and stubby. Speaking of combine car, I redesigned the door so that it has a little more depth and detail in it. On all the cars, I extended the green highlights to reach the bottom of the coach instead of just stopping in the middle. I also removed all the furniture inside the Lilly elle (Red presidential/observation coach at the back) for a reason I shall iterate upon later. I've already begun research into the subject of adding Power Functions onto non PF trains. While I have thought about some solutions, they don't really seem all that...well...this project is going to suck a lot of money right out of me and I just came here to make sure that I am doing this PF thing correctly, so I don't screw up and end up wasting a lot of time, money, and energy. Anyways, I wanted to use Power Functions for a variety of reasons. A) I already bought one of the freight train sets and have a PF controller in my hands B) I don't want to go through the process of copper plating plastic track I buy in the future C) Being unrestricted by the wire of the speed controler for 9v tracks is nice D) 9v accessories are starting to become a tad bit expensive, even is PF is just as expensive, or even more in some cases. This project is already looking to be a bank drainer for me as it is, so why not build off of what I already have? It would make sense to place the motor bogie under the tender like a 9v train, but that would led to the problem of where to put the PF battery box and wireless connection receiver. The main problem for going about this are the bogies. The bogies on these coaches are custom built and turn about on a 2x2 turntable which connects directly to the base of the coach. PF bogies require those technic holes in order to spin and turn. I couldn't find a PF bogie in LDD, but if memory dictates me correctly, they are the exact same size as a 9v bogie engine. The base of each coach is exactly 3 plates thick. PF bogies require 2 plates with technic holes in them, and it is 1 plate taller than my custom bogies. So basically a PF bogie, or a 9v one for that matter, basically just eats away at the base of the rail car. Now you may be asking yourself "Why put it in the back?" It is the only place I could think of that has enough room. The combine and coach cars all have seats and decoration in them. I originally planned on decorating the inside of the Lilly Belle, but it was just so tight in there I gave up and make it entirely blank. It was the only free space available. This is thus far the best solution I could think of. I may not know a lot about stability, but if there is one thing I know, that structure looks rickety and has an easy ability to break while handling or in motion. I had to remove all three plates; 2 for the technic plates with holes and 1 so that the PF bogie is level with all the others. I left space open for the wire that connects the bogie to the battery box, much like on the freight train I bought. Not the brightest, not the smarted, and certainly not the strongest. But so far it is the only solution I could think of on how to add Power Functions to my train. It's not just stability I am worried about, but power as well. I only own one freight train and a basic oval track (I don't know where most of my flex track and switches went...) and I did a mock up test of how the whole set up would work. The engine would be in the back with everything else up front. The train started a very slow crawl at level 2 and at times just downright stopped at curves.Level 3 showed a lot of improvement but anything above that the train started to show and sound off signs of struggling. And that was only with 3 relatively light freight cars. On my build, the PF bogie will have to push itself, 5 other coaches, a tender, and a steam locomotive. If the motor is struggling with 3 lightweight objects, how would it react to 7 heavier ones? I'm afraid I might burn out my PF motor if I try to push all that. So any help with powering up my train with Power Functions? I am still doing some research at the moment, but I would like a little helpful push, tip, or advice in the right direction. So far, as an alternative, I am thinking about removing the barrels and boxes in the combine's mail room and put the PF bogie motor under the tender and then rebuild the front of the combine car to (somehow) hook up the battery box to the motor. I am also really liking this idea I found. It's very compact and can fit in the combine mail room with ease, and if I am careful enough, inside the tender. I am wary about this technique though. I absolutely love it, and I don't mind going a bit extreme in making this build, but I am wary about screwing up and ruining something. If I can somehow fit everything near the front/in the tender, maybe some problems will be solved in the power issue, but I don't know. I am still researching as much as I can and am still unsure on what approach I should use. PS: Special thanks to TheBrickster and Fugazi for compiling together the Train Tech - Tutorial & Discussion Index. It is being a really big help to me right now, as I have been introduced to a lot of potential ideas; some being relatively easy yet bulky, while others being a bit challenging but an amazing payoff. Also big big big thanks to Burnsland, an index and treasure trove of all you need to know about the Disneyland Railroad and other railroads of the Disney parks. Your boards and pictures were much needed for this.
  13. How to paint LEGO?

    I would hate to revive an old thread, but I would like to know something. I am currently in the works on the planning stages of a new build I had in mind. While doing planning, I came across inevitable shortfalls in my build. Namely there were bricks that I needed but they were not in the color needed. To put down an example, I needed 20 1x2x2 frames and 6 Glass For 1X2X2 Frame, both coming in the color of Bright Yellow. Neither came in the color I needed and so that meant I would have to recolor them to Bright Yellow when I got the pieces.. While trying to do some research on recoloring bricks, I came across this pdf article that goes a little into recoloring bricks. Namely using sharpies, paints, and dyes. On the 3rd page, it shows the effects of different coloring techniques as well as the slight effects of a brick's original color affecting the new color. Can anyone tell me what base brick color works best for repainting? Also, based on the article, what should I use? Paint or dyes? Because from the 4th and 5th heads, they have both the color and shine of a real LEGO brick, which is what I ultimately aim for, because when I place both the recolored bricks and pure LEGO bricks side by side, I want them to be seamless and not look like the bricks have been tampered with in any way.
  14. Oh why must life be a cruel mistress? The "Western" DeLorean cannot fit L-Guage track! That...that makes me a bit sad because actually... Does anyone know how to build an 8-Stud wide 'Sierra No. 3' 4-6-0 tender wheeler?