legoboy3998

Eurobricks Citizen
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About legoboy3998

  • Birthday 01/21/87

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Whitefish Bay, WI

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  • Country
    USA

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  1. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    Yes, I have run them on uneven track, it can be problematic if the "bumps" are to extreme. I believe I ran my mostly Kadee coupler train at Brikworld this year. Our layout had a handful of 1-2 brick elevation changes (aiming for 1-2 plates per track section), plus general unevenness due to poor rental banquet tables, but we tried to make those "bumps" as gradual as possible by using shims and spreading it out. I have all my trains packed from doing a show this weekend. When I get around to unpacking it (by this weekend) I'll set up a loop of uneven track and shoot a video. i did a quick calculation. A pack of 2 couplers is $4.55, a pack of 12 bolts is $3.90, a pack of 12 nuts is $3.90 and a pack of 12 washers is $3.75 (you need 2 washers per coupler.). Breaking it all down, it costs about $5.80 per car to install Kadee couplers. @coaster, I would suggest getting a couple pairs of Kadee couplers (one with coil centering springs and one with whisker centering springs). Since they already have solutions for many of the issues discussed above, I think they will offer great insight into what is needed to make your LEGO-ized couplers function as desired. As as a side note. Several years ago, I talked to a Kadee rep at a train show and asked if they would have interest in doing a LEGO compatible coupler. He said a few years prior they had had discussions with some LEGO train fans, and I believe even had a prototype made. But interest from the LEGO train community died. i would love to see what you end up coming up with. It would be nice to have a ready made solution that simply snaps on to LEGO trains. Sal
  2. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    @Daedalus304, I have used Kadee O scale couplers in my LEGO trains (Kadee #806 to be exact). A pack of 2 couplers is about $4.50 plus buying backs of nuts, bolts, and washers (12 each per pack). These couplers "bolt on" to LEGO 2x3 pates modified with technic hole. @coaster, Kadee couplers use centering springs to keep them centered, (coil springs in the O scale couplers I use, and Whisker springs in many HO scale couplers). The coil springs can be a bit of a pain to install, and the whisker springs are built into the coupler shank. The Kadee couplers also use magnetic "trip pins" for "automatic" uncoupling via magnets mounted under the track or can be uncoupled manually using a small pointed object (skewer, pencil, etc). Here are some pictures of the instalation process: https://www.flickr.com/photos/73180761@N02/sets/72157687181305176 Sal WFB, WI
  3. New Fire Station and MOCs

    @sasbury, how do you do the inverted cheese slopes on the heavy rescue truck? Your fire apparatus MOCs are amazing and an inspiration! Sal WFB, WI
  4. Lego 9v Wireless

    Yes, you are correct, you would need to separate the motor wiring from the track pickup in the 9V motor (there are videos and instructions on this elsewhere. $80 is a bit expensive, but it comes with sound, allows you to control multiple lighting effects, and again allows you to run multiple trains with any power source. Some of these features are not possible with LEGO, and it is much smaller than the current PF parts. I plan to install mine into a battery powered locomotive and will post more about it when I do. Sal WFB, WI
  5. Lego 9v Wireless

    have a look at this. You will need to use a LEGO 9V wire (or the PF wire with the 9V connector) to wire the control board to pull in the 9V power. I plan on tinkering with this product in the near future. Sal WFB, WI
  6. Train towing ball alternatives needed

    I use Kadee #806 O scale couplers on most of my MOCs. They literally just "bolt on" to standard LEGOS 2x3 plate with hole they should pull well since it relies on an interlocking connection instead of a fmagnetic connection. The only two downsides I have found are 1, they don't like big "bumps" in track, but a steady, gentle incline (1-2 plates per track section) is no problem. 2, the nuts tend to loosen over time and I have had a few occasions where the coupler has fallen off because the nut came off. Not really a huge deal, just have to make sure to check the nuts and bolts periodically. here is the topic where I introduced the couplers: And some pictures showing the assembly process on my flickr. Sal WFB, WI
  7. That is correct. Some modelers either use magnets (permanent or electro) mounted strategically under the track to actuate the magnetic trip pin in the couplers to uncouple cars. However, most modelers just use a wooden skewer or pencil to manually open the coupler knuckle to decouple cars. This is acceptable because in the real world train cars are manually decoupled. sal WFB, WI
  8. I use O Scale Kadee couplers for my trains. The look and function like real train couplers. The standard way to uncouple them is either manually with a "pick" or with a magnet under the track. They now offer a way to remotely operate their couplers. Info can be found here. Sal WFB, WI
  9. TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff

    I am looking for a source for "flex tube". I know some builders have mentioned finding non LEGO sources, but can't find any reference to where now. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Sal WFB, WI
  10. Couplers (not Kadee)

    It took me a little longer to co than I planned, but I finally got around to doing some needed coupler assembly and took what picks I could. They, along with descriptions of the process can be found on my flickr.
  11. I couldn't find the one I was looking for, but these might work. https://www.walthers.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Mini+connectors Sal WFB, WI
  12. Couplers (not Kadee)

    I am not sure there are any pre assembled couplers out there. The main reason for the spring is to center the coupler in the box so it will always line up when you want to couple cars. I use a simple tweezers to grab and compress the spring in the middle. I make sure to leave a couple loops on the outside of either side of the tweezers so the spring won't pop off and go flying. It works pretty well, but I keep extra springs I get in a small ziploc bag just in case I loose one. I have a few more couplers I have to assemble. When a I get back home from vacation, I can post pics of how I assemble them. (I realize this doesn't exactly answer your question.) Sal, WFB, WI
  13. @codefox421, The only place I see it being an issue in your above track configurations, is the first one with the curve right after the switch. For that, I would suggest what legoman666 did. for the other two issues with the curves in parallel tracks, you can simply use 1 conversion track + 1 half straight on either side of the curve to convert back to 9v track. Sal WFB, WI
  14. MOC - Warehouse Style Hardware Store

    Looks great as usual LT! It is very highly detailed and recognizable. Do you have more detailed pics of the smaller builds and merchandise? Sal WFB, WI
  15. Train-mounted camera

    I put this wireless camera into the nose of my 6 wide GP38. I tested it out at a show this past Fall and hope to have it at Brickworld this June. Here are some pictures of it in action. MF16 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr MF9 by BuriedinBricks, on Flickr I can take pictures it in the engine if interested. Sal WFB, WI